Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing - Revised + Expanded Edition: 1200 Full-Color How-To Photos
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SINGERTheCompletePhotoGuideTo
SEWING
1200Full-ColorHow-toPhotos
CONTENTS
HowtoUseThisBook
GETTINGSTARTED
TheSewingMachine
CreatingthePerfectStitchMachineAccessoriesforSpecialTasks
TheSergerTheStitchesandtheirUsesCreatingthePerfectStitch
SergerBasics
EssentialEquipmentandSuppliesSpecialEquipmentNotions
ThePattern
ThePatternEnvelopeInsidethePattern
FabricEssentialsHandlingSpecialFabrics
ClassicFabricTexturesandDesignsLooseWeavesCorduroyandVelveteen
KnitsSheerandSilkyFabricsLustrousFabricsLaceandEmbroideredFabricsSyntheticFur,Suede,andLeatherInterfacing
Layout,Cutting,andMarking
PreparingtheFabricLayingOutthePatternLayingOutPlaidsandStripesLayingOutDirectionalFabricsCuttingTips
MarkingTips
SEWINGTECHNIQUES
GeneralGuidelinesforPatternAdjustmentsChoosinganAdjustmentMethodBasicLengthAdjustmentsFittingtheBust
FittingtheWaistandAbdomenFittingHips
SeamsEncasedSeamsStretchSeamsSeamFinishesBoundSeamFinishes
SergerSeamsandSeamFinishes
Darts
Gathers
Sleeves
Cuffs
Collars
Waistbands
Hems
EasyEdges
PocketsPatchPocketsIn-SeamPockets
SlantedPocketsWeltPockets
ClosuresHooksandEyesButtonholesButtons
SnapsZippers
TailoringInterfacingtheJacketSectionsTailoringaNotchedCollarShapingtheShouldersTailoredHems
LiningLiningaSkirtorPants
SewingActivewear
ElasticizedWaistbandsRibbedEdgesSwimsuitsandLeotards
HOMEDECORATING
DecoratorFabricsCuttingDecoratorFabrics
WorkingwithPatternedFabricSeams
PillowsKnife-EdgePillowsMockBoxPillowsFlangePillowsBoxPillows
BolsterPillowsClosureOptionsDecorativeEdges
SlipcoversReversibleSeatCoverCushions
FutonCoverParsonsChair
WindowTreatmentsTermstoKnowMeasuringtheWindow
SelectingandInstallingHardwareCoveringandInstallingMountingBoardsHemsTaperedScarfSwagsGatheredPickupValance
FlatRomanShadesTuckedRomanShadesFlatPanelCurtainsTabCurtainsClassicRod-PocketCurtainsPinch-PleatedDraperies
BedandBath
FlangedPillowShamsDuvetCoverBedSkirtsShowerCurtain
TableFashionsRoundTablecloths
SquareandRectangularTableclothsReversiblePlacematsNapkins
Index
HowtoUseThisBook
Likeanyotherartorcraft,sewingbeginswithbasictechniques.TheCompletePhotoGuidetoSewinggivesyoutheessentialinformationyouneedforsewinggarmentsanditemsforyourhome.Inadditiontobasictechniques,specialtysewingtopics,suchasfitting,sewingactivewear,andsewinghomedécorprojects,arealsoincluded.
GettingStarted
Thissectiongivesyouinformationonthesewingmachineandtheserger.Weshowyouhowtogettheperfectstitchandtellyouaboutspecialfeaturesandaccessoriesforbothmachines.Wealsotellyouabouttheequipmentandnotionsyouwillneedforallofyoursewing,plussometimesavingequipmentthatwillmakeyoursewingeasier.
Alsocoveredinthefirstsectionisthepattern.Youwilllearnhowtotakeyourmeasurementsandselectthecorrectsize.Acomprehensiveguidetofabricselectionisincludedaswellascuttingandsewingtips.Thereisalsoinformationonhowtochooseandapplyinterfacing.
SewingTechniques
Thissectionfeaturesthebasictechniquesyouwillusefornearlyeverythingyousew:garmentsandhomedecoratingprojects.Thebasicsewingtechniquesincludefitting,seams,darts,gathering,sleeves,collars,waistbands,cuffs,andclosures.Eachisgivenanoverview,followedbyastep-by-stepdescriptionofhowtoachievethebestresults.Oftenseveralmethodsarepresentedwithguidanceastowhenandwheretouseeachone.
HomeDecoratingProjects
Westartwiththebasicsoffabricselectionandothertipsonplanningaproject.Instructionsformanyoftheprojectsincludealternatemethodsandsuggesttimesavingtechniques.
TheHomeDecoratingsectionisdividedintofiveprojectcategories:windows,pillows,bedandbath,slipcovers,andtables.Forwindows,wegiveinstructionsforstandardfavorites,suchaspinch-pleateddraperies,Romanshades,andmanyothers.Fourbasicpillowstylesareshownplusvariationsforclosures.Usingfabricsofyourchoice,youroptionsforpillowsareendless.Makeacomfortercoverforyourbed,andaddpillowshamsandadustruffletomatch.Makenewcushions,slipcoveryourdiningchairs,ormakeacoverforafuton.Fortables,learnhowtomakerectangularandroundtablecloths,placemats,andmanyvariationsofnapkins.
Eachcategoryincludesanoverviewandhowtotakemeasurementsfortheprojects.Foreasyreference,fabricandnotionsrequiredtocompleteaprojectareincludedinaboxlabeledYOUWILLNEED.Thestep-by-stepinstructionsarecomplete:youdonothavetopurchaseadditionalpatterns.Thephotographsshowyouhoweachprojectshouldlookeachstepoftheway.
Step-by-StepGuidance
Thephotosadddepthanddimensiontotheinstructions,givingyouaclose-uplookateachstep.Insomecases,thestitchesareshowninheavierthreadoracontrastingcolortomakethemmorevisible.Somemarkinglineshavealsobeenexaggeratedtoshowacrucialmatchingpoint.
Ifyouarelearningtoseworgettingbacktosewing,youmaywanttopracticeyourskillsonaneasyprojectbeforestartingalargerone.Trysewingsimpleplacematsandnapkinstopracticeanewedgefinish.Whenyousewafirstgarment,chooseasimplestylethatiseasytofit,withfewdetails.
Whetheryouareanewsewer,anexperiencedsewer,orareturningsewer,thisbookisdesignedtobeahelpandaninspiration.Useitasyourstep-by-stepguidetothesatisfactionandfunofsuccessfulsewing.
GETTINGSTARTED
TheSewingMachine
Asewingmachineisyourmostimportantpieceofsewingequipment,soselectonewithcare.Asturdy,well-builtmachinewillgiveyoumanyyearsofsewingenjoyment.
Ifyouarebuyinganewmachine,thereareavarietyofmodelsavailabletofitanybudgetorsewingneed.Typesrangefromabasiczigzagwithoneortwobuilt-institches,totheelectronicmachinethatusesadvancedcomputertechnologytocontrolandselectthestitching.
Availablefeaturesincludebuilt-inbuttonholer,color-codedstitchselection,instantreverse,snap-onpresserfoot,freearmforstitchingsmallroundareas(suchaspantslegs),built-inbobbinwinder,automatictensionandpressureadjustment,andautomaticstitchlengthadjustment.Eachfeatureusuallyaddstothecostofthemachine,solookforamachinetomatchyoursewingprojects.Buyamachinethatsatisfiesyoursewingneeds,butdon’tpayforfeaturesyouwillrarelyuse.Alsoconsidertheamountanddifficultyofthesewingyoudo,andthenumberofpeopleyousewfor.Talktofabricstorepersonnelandfriendswhosew.Askfordemonstrationsandtryoutandcompareseveralmodels.Lookforqualityworkmanshipandeaseofoperationaswellasstitchingoptions.
Themachine’scabinetryisanotherfactortoconsider.Portablemachinesoffertheflexibilityofmovingtovariousworksurfaces.
Machinesbuiltintocabinetsaredesignedtobetherightheightforsewing.Theyalsohelpyoustayorganizedbyprovidingaconvenientplacetostoresewingequipmentandkeepithandy.
Althoughsewingmachinesvaryincapabilitiesandaccessories,eachhasthesamebasicpartsandcontrols.Checkyourmanualforspecificlocationofthesepartsonyourmachine.
CREATINGTHEPERFECTSTITCH
Perfectstitchingiseasytoachieveifyouthreadthemachineproperlyandmaketherightadjustmentsinthestitchlength,tension,andpressure.Theseadjustmentsdependonyourfabricandthekindofstitchdesired.Consultyourmachinemanualforthreadingproceduresandlocationofcontrols.
Thestitchlengthregulatorisoneitheraninchscalefrom0to20,ametricscalefrom0to4,oranumericalscalefrom0to9.Fornormalstitching,settheregulatorat10to12stitchesperinch,oratthenumber3formetricscalemachines.Onthenumericalscale,highernumbersformalargerstitch;ifashorterstitchisdesired,dialalowernumber.Anaveragestitchlengthisatnumber5.
Bobbinsmaybebuilt-inorremovableforwinding.Bobbinswithabuilt-incasearewoundinthecase.Removablebobbinshavearemovablebobbincasewithatensionadjustmentscrew.Theymaybewoundonthetoporsideofthemachine.Startwithanemptybobbinsothethreadwillwindevenly.Donotwindittoofullorthebobbinthreadwillbreak.
Intheidealstitch,bothtopandbobbinthreadaredrawnequallyintothefabric,andthelinkisformedmidwaybetweenfabriclayers.Thestitchtensioncontroldeterminestheamountoftensiononthethreadsastheypassthroughthemachine.Toomuchtensionresultsintoolittlethreadfedintothestitch.Thiscausesthefabrictopucker.Toolittletensionproducestoomuchthreadandaweak,loosestitch.
Adjustthepressureregulatorforlightpressureonheavyweightfabrics,
morepressureonlightfabrics.Correctpressureensuresevenfeedingofthefabriclayersduringstitching.Somemachinesautomaticallyadjusttensionandpressuretothefabric.
Alwayschecktensionandpressureonascrapoffabricbeforestartingtosew.Whenexperimentingwithpressureandtension,threadthemachinewithdifferentcolorsfortopandbobbinthreadtomakethestitchlinkseasiertosee.
StraightStitchTensionandPressure
Correcttensionandpressuremakesstitchesthatarelinkedmidwaybetweenthefabriclayers.Thestitcheslookeveninlengthandtensiononbothsides.Fabriclayersarefedevenlythroughthefeedandfabricisnotmarred.
Tootighttensionresultsinstitchlinksthatarenearthetoplayeroffabric.Fabricispuckered,andstitchesareeasilybroken.Turntensiondialtoalowernumber.Ifpressureistooheavy,thebottomlayermaygatherup.Fabricmayshiftorstretch.Stitchesmaybeuneveninlengthandtension.Dialpressureregulatortoalowernumber.
Tooloosetensionresultsinstitchlinksthataretowardthebottomfabriclayer.Seamisweek.Correcttheproblembyturningtensiondialtoahighernumber.Toolightpressuremaycauseskippedandunevenstitches,andmaypullfabricintothefeed.Dialpressureregulatortoahighernumber.
ZigzagStitchTensionandPressure
Correcttensionandpressureinzigzagstitchingproducesstitchesinwhichtheinterlockinglinkofthreadsfallsatthecornerofeachstitch,midwaybetweenfabriclayers.Stitcheslieflatandfabricdoesnotpucker.
Tootighttensioncausesfabrictopucker.Thethreadlinkfallsnearthetopfabriclayer.Tocorrect,decreasethetension.Incorrectpressureisnotasapparentinzigzagasinstraightstitching.Butifthepressureisnotaccurate,stitcheswillnotbeofevenlength.
Tooloosetensioncausesthebottomlayertopuckerandthethreadlinktofallnearthebottomfabriclayer.Increasetensiontobalancestitch.Thezigzagstitchshouldbeproperlybalancedinnormalsewing.Loosentensionslightlyfordecorativestitches,andthetopstitchpatternwillbecomemorerounded.
MACHINEACCESSORIESFORSPECIALTASKS
Everysewingmachinehasaccessoriesthatallowittoperformavarietyofspecialtasks.Thereareuniversalaccessoriesthatfitanymachine,suchasthezipperfoot,buttonholeattachmentandvarioushemmingfeet.Otheraccessories,suchasarufflerattachment,aredesignedtosavetimeandeffortforspecialtypesofsewing.
Whenaddingaspecialaccessoryorfoottoamachine,youmustknowifyourmachinehasahighshank,lowshank,orslantedshank.Theshankisthedistancefromthebottomofthepresserfoottotheattachmentscrew.Attachmentsarespecificallydesignedtofitoneofthesethreestyles.
Thezigzagplateandthegeneralpurposefootusuallycomewiththemachine.Otheraccessoriesoftenincludedarethestraight-stitchplateandfoot,buttonholefootorattachment,zipperfoot,seamguide,varioushemmingfeet,andEvenFeedorrollerfoot.Themachinemanualexplainshowtoattachthevariousaccessoriesandachievethebestresultswitheach.
Buttonholeattachmentsallowyoutostitchcompletebuttonholesinasinglestep.Onetypestitchesandadjuststhebuttonholelengthtofitthebuttonplacedinacarrierbehindthefoot.Anothertypeofbuttonholerforstraight-stitchmachinesmakesbuttonholesautomaticallyusingtemplatesofvarioussizes.Keyholebuttonholescanbemadewiththisaccessory.
Straight-stitchplateandfootareusedforstraightstitchingonly.Theneedlehole(arrow)intheplateissmallandround.Thestraight-stitchplateandfootdonotallowforanysidewaysneedlemovement.Usethesefeatureswhenyourfabricorsewingprocedurerequiresclosecontrol,suchasedgestitchingormakingcollarpoints.Theyarealsogoodforsheersanddelicatefabrics,becausethesmallneedleholehelpskeepfragilefabricsfrombeingdrawnintothefeed.
Zigzagplateandfootaretheplateandfootonazigzagmachineattimeofpurchase.Theyareusedforzigzagandmulti-needleworkaswellasplainstraightstitchingonfirmfabrics.Theneedlehole(arrow)intheplateiswider,andthefoothasawiderareafortheneedletopassthrough,allowingforside-to-sideneedlemotion.Usethisplateandfootforgeneral-purposesewing.
Zipperfootisusedtostitchcording,insertzippers,orstitchanyseamthathasmorebulkononesidethantheother.Itadjuststoeithersideoftheneedle.
Specialpurposefoothasagroovedbottomthatallowsforthreadbuild-upindecorativestitches.Seamguideattachestomachineand
helpskeepseamallowancesandhemseven.
Blindstitchhemfootpositionsthehemforblindstitchhemmingonthemachine.Thisisafastalternativetohemmingbyhand.
EvenFeedfootfeedstopandbottomlayerstogethersoseamsstartandendevenly.Useitforvinyl,pilefabrics,bulkyknits,orotherfabricsthattendtostick,slip,orstretch.Thisfootisalsousefulfortopstitchingandstitchingplaids.
Buttonfootholdsflatbuttonsinpositionforattachingwithmachinezigzagstitch.Thisfootsavestimewhensewingonseveralbuttons.
Overedgefoothelpskeepstitchesatfullwidthandpreventscurlingofflatedgeswhensewingoveredgestitches.Stitchesareformedoverahookontheinsideedgeofthefoot.
TheSerger
Asergerisaspecial-purposesewingmachinethatsupplementsaconventionalmachine.Itissimilartothespeed-sewingequipmentusedbygarmentmanufacturers.Asergercutssewingtimeconsiderably,becauseittrimsandovercastsrawfabricedgesasitsewstheseam.Inaddition,itperformsthisthree-in-oneoperationathighspeed.Sergersform1,500ormorestitchesaminute—abouttwicetherateofconventionalsewingmachines.Asanotherbenefit,allfabricsfeedevenlysothateventraditionallydifficult-to-handlefabrics,suchasslipperysilksandthinsheers,willnottakeanyextrasewingtime.
Becauseofitsuniquecapabilities,asergerstreamlinesgarmentconstruction.Iteliminatestime-consumingstepsandencouragesefficientsewinghabitssuchasflatconstruction,pinlesssewing,andcontinuousseaming.Italsodispenseswithroutinessuchasraisingandloweringthepresserfoot,backstitching,andfillingbobbins.
FunctionsandParts
Asergerexcelsatmakingself-finishednarrowseams,rolledhems,blindstitchedhems,andovercastedgefinishes.Itisalsothemachinetochooseforapplyingelastic,ribbing,ribbons,andlace.Useaconventionalmachinewheneverstraightorzigzagstitchingisnecessary,suchasfortopstitching,insertingazipper,ormakingbuttonholes.
Manydifferentmodelsofsergersareavailable,eachofferingdifferenttypesofstitches.Sergerssewwithtwo,three,four,orfivethreads.Thenameofeachmachinetellswhichstitchesitoffers;forexample,a4/3-threadsergercanseweithera4-threadmocksafetystitchora3-threadoverlockstitch.Eachstitchtypeisuniqueandservesaspecialpurpose.
Asergercanbeidentifiedbytypeataglance.Eachtypehasacertainnumberofneedlesandloopers,andtheshapeoftheloopersiseasilyrecognized.Foranoverviewofthesergersavailableandthestitchestheysew,seepages18and19.
Needlesmaybeanindustrialtypewithshortorlongshaft,orastandardtypeusedonaconventionalsewingmachine.Usetheneedlespecifiedforyourmachine.Industrialneedlesarestrongerandlastlongerthanconventionalneedles,buttheymaybemoreexpensiveandlesswidelyavailable.Changeconventionalneedlesfrequently.Usethefinestneedlepossibletoavoiddamagingthefabric.Size11/80worksformostfabricweights.
Knivesworklikebladesofscissorstotrimthefabricforthestitchwidthselected.Oneknifeishigh-carbonsteelandmaylastseveralyears.The
otherknifeislessdurableandmayrequirereplacementthreeorfourtimesannually.Whenknivesseemdull,firstcleanthemwithalcohol;thenrepositionandtightenthescrew.Testbysewingslowly.Ifaproblemremains,replacethelessdurableknifeandtestagain.Asalastresort,replacetheotherknife.
SergerThread
Asergerusesmorethreadthanaconventionalsewingmachine,sothreadcompaniesofferthreadincones,kingtubes,andcompacttubes.Tubesandconeshaveatleast1,000yd.(920m)ofthread,andconescanhaveasmanyas6,000yd.(5520m).
Allpurposethreadmayalsobeusedontheserger;itisavailableonparallel-woundorcross-woundspools.Parallelwoundspoolsrequiretheuseofaspoolcapforevenfeeding.Thereisawidercolorselectioninallpurposethread;useitformedium-weightorheavyweightfabricswhencolormatchingiscritical.
Sergerthreadsaregenerallylighterinweightthanallpurposesewingthreads.Alightweightthreadisrecommendedforsergeruse.Thereismorethreadinasergedseamandalighter-weightthreadreducesbulk.
Sergermachinessewatahigherrateofspeedthanconventionalsewingmachinesandcreatemorestressonthethreads.Therefore,threadsneedtobestronganddurable.Testthreadforstrength;poor-qualitythreadmaybreakeasilyinsomespots.Usethebestqualityofthreadyoucan;bargainthreadssometimescausemoreproblemsthanthesavingsareworth.
PrincipalPartsoftheSerger
a.Threadguidesb.Telescopingthreadguideholderc.Spoolpins
d.Presserfootliftere.Needle,threadtensiondials(1or2,dependingonmodel)f.Looperthreadtensiondials(2or3,dependingonmodel)g.Needlesetscrewsh.Presserfoot
i.Stitchfingersj.Loopers(2or3,dependingonmodel)k.Needleplate
l.Knives
m.Stitchwidthregulatorn.Stitchlengthregulatoro.Handwheel
p.Powerandlightswitchq.Differentialfeedcontrol(notonallmodels)r.Threadingdiagramss.Loopercover(open)
Locationofsomemachinepartswillvary5-threadsergerwithcoverstitchshown
CareandMaintenance
Becauseasergertrimsfabricasitsews,itcreatesmorelintthanaconventionalmachineandneedstobecleanedfrequently.Useabrushorcannedairtoremovelintfromthelooperandthroatplatearea.Wipeofftensiondisks,needles,knives,andfeeddogwithalcohol.
Tokeepasergerrunningsmoothlyandquietly,oilitoften.Sergersarelubricatedbyawicksystemandcanloseoilbygravityevenwhentheyareidle.
THESTITCHESANDTHEIRUSES
CREATINGTHEPERFECTSTITCH
Thetensioncontrolsonasergerareactuallystitchselectors.Eachthreadhasitsowntensioncontrol.Changingoneormoretensionsettingsaffectsthecharacterofthestitch,becauseitchangeshowthethreadslooptogether.Withtensionadjustments,thesergercanstitchawiderangeofthreads,fabrics,seams,hems,anddecorativetreatments.
Agoodwaytobecomecomfortablewithsergertensionadjustmentsistothreadeachlooperandneedlewithacontrastingthreadcolor.Copythecolorcodeusedforthemachine’sthreadingdiagram.Makeseveralstitchsamples,tighteningandlooseningthetensionsinsequence.Youwillseetheeffectofeachtensionadjustmentandlearnhowtousethetensioncontrolstocreateabalancedstitch.Mostofthestitchsamplesshownbelowandoppositeweremadeona3-threadserger;stitchsamplesmadeonothermodelslooksimilarandareadjustedinthesameway.
CorrectlyBalancedTensions
3-threadstitchisformedbytwoloopersandoneneedle.Upper(orange)andlower(yellow)looperthreadsformneat,smoothchainatrawedge.Needlethread(green)formsflatstitcheswithoutpuckers.
4/3-threadstitchisformedbytwoloopersandtwoneedles.Upper(orange)andlower(yellow)looperthreadschainneatlyatrawedge.Bothneedlethreads(blue,green)formflatstitchesthatinterlockwithlooperthreads.
4/2-threadstitchmakesdoublerowofstitcheswithtwoloopersandtwoneedles.Leftneedlethread(blue)interlockswithlowerlooperthread(yellow)tomakeneat,puckerfreechainstitch.Upperlooperthread(orange)andrightneedlethread(green)interlockoverrawedge.
CommonTensionAdjustments
Upperloopertootight.Upperlooperthread(orange)pullslowerlooperthread(yellow)totopsideoffabric.Loosenupperloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.
Lowerloopertooloose.Lowerlooperthread(yellow)rideslooselyontopoffabric.Tightenlowerloopertensionuntilstitcheslieflatandsmoothonfabric.
Upperloopertooloose.Upperlooperthread(orange)interlockswithlowerlooperthread(yellow)underneathfabric.Tightenupperloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.
Lowerloopertootight.Lowerlooperthread(yellow)pullsupperlooperthread(orange),causingstitchestointerlockunderfabric.Loosenlowerloopertensionsothreadsinterlockatrawedge.
Upperandlowerlooperstootight.Fabricbunchesandpuckerswithinstitches.Loosenupperandlowertensionsuntilfabricrelaxes.
Upperandlowerlooperstooloose.Lower(yellow)andupper(orange)looperthreadsinterlockbeyondrawedgeandformlooseloops.Tightenbothloopertensionssostitcheshugrawedge.
Needletootight.Fabricpuckersordrawsuplengthwisewhenneedlethread(green)istootight .Loosenneedletensionuntilfabricrelaxes.Testknitsforthreadbreakage,looseningneedlethreadifnecessary.On4/3-threadmachine ,adjusteachneedlethread(blue,green)individually.
Needletooloose.Needlethread(green)formslooseloopsunderneathfabric .Tightenneedletensionforflat,smoothstitches.On4/3-threadserger ,adjusteachneedlethread(blue,green)individually.
SergerBasics
Tobeginstitching,runthesergerwithoutfabricunderthepresserfoottocreateachainofstitchesabout2"(5cm)long.Athreadchainatthestartandendofseamspreventsstitchesfromraveling.Operatingasergerwithoutfabricdoesnotdamagethemachineorbreakthreads,becausestitchesareformedonthestitchfingers(prongs).
Thethroatplateonmostsergershasone ortwo stitchfingers.Stitchesareformedaroundthestitchfingersothat,withthecorrecttension,thewidthofthestitchfingerdeterminesthewidthofthestitch.
Aspecialthroatplatewithanarrowstitchfinger isusedtosewarolledhemorseam.
Thepresserfootmayalsocontainastitchfinger .Machineswiththistypeofpresserfootuseaspecialpresserfootforarolledhemorseam.
HowtoChangeThread
Cuteachthreadnearcone,andremovecone.Tienewthreadontoeachthreadinmachine,usingsmalloverhandknot.Clipthreadends½"(1.3cm)fromknot.
Releasetensions,orsettensioncontrolson0.Cutneedlethreadinfrontofneedle.Pullontailchaintoseparatethreads.
Pullthreadsoneatatimethroughthreadguides,upperlooper,andlowerlooper.Pullneedlethreaduntilknotreachesneedleeye.Cutoffknot;threadneedlewithtweezers.
HowtoCleartheStitchFingers
Raisepresserfoot.Turnflywheeltoraiseneedle.Placelefthandonthreadchainbehindpresserfoot.Toslackenneedlethread,pullitgentlyabovelastthreadguidebeforeneedle.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.)
Pullstraightbackonthreadchainbehindpresserfootuntilthreadsseparateandstitchfingers(prongs)ofthroatplateorpresserfootareempty.
HowtoStartaSeam
Makethreadchain.Stitchseamforoneortwostitches.Raisepresserfoot;turnflywheeltoliftneedle.Clearstitchfingers.Runyourfingersalongthreadchaintomakeitsmooth.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.) Bringthreadchaintotheleft,aroundandunderpresserfoot.Placethreadchainbetweenneedleandknife.Holdthreadchaininposition,andlowerpresserfoot.
Stitchseamoverthreadchainforabout1"(2.5cm);thenswingthreadchaintotherightsoitistrimmedoffasyoucontinuetostitchseam.
HowtoEndaSeam
Stitchpastendofseambyonestitch,andstop.Raisepresserfootandneedletoclearstitchfingers.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowdetail.) Turnseamover,androtateittoalignedgeofseamwithedgeofknife.Lowerpresserfoot.Turnflywheeltoinsertneedleatendofseamandatleftofedgethewidthofstitch.
Stitchoverpreviousstitchesforabout1"(2.5cm).Stitchoffedge,leavingthreadchain.Withscissorsorsergerknife,trimthreadchainclosetoedgeofseam.
HowtoStitchInsideCornersandSlits
Finishseamsofinsidecornersbyaligningrawedgeoffabricwithknifeofserger.Stitch,stoppingbeforecorner.
Foldthefabrictothelefttostraightenedge.Thismaycreateatuck,whichwillnotbestitched.
Resumestitching,holdingfabricinstraightline.Oncepastcorner,fabriccanberelaxed.
HowtoStitchCurvedEdges
Begincuttingatanangle,untilyoureachthedesiredcuttingorstitchingline.
Guidefabricinfrontofpresserfootsoknivestrimrawedgetocurvedshape.Whilestitching,watchknife,notneedle.
Stopwhenstitchesoverlappreviousstitches.Liftpresserfoot.Shiftfabricsoitisbehindneedle;stitchoffedgetopreventgradualloopingoveredgeoffabric.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowneedleposition.)
HowtoStitchOutsideCorners
Trimoffseamallowancepastcornerforabout2"(5cm).Ifmakingnapkins,placemats,orsimilarprojects,youcancutfabrictofinishedsizeandomitthisstep.
Sewonestitchpastendofthecorner,andstop.Raisepresserfootandneedletoclearstitchfingersandslackenneedlethreadslightly.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowneedleposition.)
Pivotfabrictoalignrawedgeoftrimmedseamallowancewithknife.Insertneedleatsergededge.Lowerpresserfoot,andcontinuestitching.
HowtoRemoveStitches
2-threadstitch.Cutthreadsbyslidingseamripperorbladeofscissorsunderthestitches.Removecutthreads.
3-threador4/3-threadstitch.Clipneedlethreadseverythreeorfourstitches,workingfromupperside.Pullbothlooperthreadsstraightoutatedge.Removecutthreads.
4/2-threadstitch.Workingfromunderside,pullonlooperthreadtoremovechainstitching.Removeoveredgingasdescribedfor2-threadstitch,left.
EssentialEquipmentandSupplies
Basicsewingisdividedintofiveprocesses:measuring,cutting,marking,stitchingbyhandormachine,andpressing.Foreachofthesetasks,thereareessentialtoolstomakethestepseasierandtheresultssuperior.Buildanequipmentinventoryasyouaddtoyoursewingskills.
Sewing-MachineNeedles
Selectneedlesizeandtypeaccordingtofabrictypeandweightandthekindofstitchingyouwillbedoing.Forgeneralconstruction,usesharp
points forwovenandnonwovenfabrics,ballpoints forknits.Theseareusuallydistinguishedbythecoloroftheshaft.Universal
points canbeusedformanyfabrictypes,knittedandwoven,andtheyarealsoavailablewithaslip-inthreadslotforsewerswithpoor
vision.Thereareneedlesdesignedspecificallyforsewingleather and
denim .Fordecorativesewing,useneedlesdesignedfortopstitching
,embroidery ,metallicthreads ,andquilting .Twinand
tripleneedles ,availableindifferentsizesandwidthsofseparation,areusedforstitchingtwoorthreeparallelrowsatatime.Hemstitching,
orwing,needles areusedforheirloomembroidery.Multipleandhemstitchneedlescanonlybeusedonzigzagmachinesthathavewideneedleholesinthethroatplate.
HandSewingEquipment
Needlesandpinsareavailableinavarietyofsizesandstylesfordifferentuses.Lookforrustproofneedlesandpinsmadeofbrass,nickelplatedsteel,orstainlesssteel.Pinswithcoloredballheadsratherthanflatheadsareeasiertoseeinfabricandlesslikelytogetlost.
Sharpsareall-purpose,medium-lengthneedlesusedforgeneralsewing.
Crewelsaregenerallyusedforembroidery.Theyaresharpandofmediumlength.
Ballpointneedlesareusedonknits.Insteadofasharppointwhichmaypiercethefabric,theroundedendpushestheknitloopsapart.
Betweensareveryshortandround-eyed.Theyareusedtohelpmakefinestitchesorforquilting.
Milliner’sneedlesarelongwithroundeyes,usedformakinglongbastingorgatheringstitches.
Silkpinsareusedforlight-tomedium-weightfabrics.Size17is(2.6cm)long;size20is1¼"(3.2cm).Botharealsoavailablewithglassorplasticheads.Extrafine1¾"(4.5cm)silkpinsareeasiertoseeinfabricbecauseoftheirlength.
Straightpinsinbrass,steel,orstainlesssteelareusedforgeneralsewing.Theyareusually (2.6cm)long.
Pleatingpinsareonly1"(2.5cm)long,forpinningdelicatefabricsintheseamallowance.
Quiltingpinsare1¾"(4.5cm)long,usedforheavymaterialsbecauseoftheirlength.
Ballpointpinsareusedforknits.
Thimbleprotectsyourmiddlefingerwhilehandsewing.Itisavailableinsizes6(small)to12(large)forindividual,snugfit.
Pincushionprovidesasafeplacetostorepins.Somepincushionshaveanemerypack(anabrasivematerial)attachedforcleaningpins
andneedles.Awristpincushion keepspinshandy.
Needlethreadereasesthreadingofhandormachineneedles.
Beeswaxwithholderstrengthensthreadandpreventstanglingforhandsewing.
MarkingTools
Thesymbolsonapatternpieceareguidesfortheaccurateconstructionofthegarment.Transferringthesesymbolsfrompatterntofabricisessentialtofittingandsewing.Becauseyouwillbeworkingwithseveraltypesoffabrics,youwillneedavarietyofmarkingtools.
Tracingwheelscomeintwotypes:serratedorsmoothedge.Theserratededgemakesadottedlinemarking.Itissuitableformostfabricsbutmaypiercedelicateones.Thesmooth-edgetracingwheelprotectsdelicate,smoothfabricssuchassilkandchiffon.Itmakesasolidlinemarking.
Dressmaker’stracingpapertransfersthetracingwheel’slinetothefabric.Chooseacolorclosetothatofthefabric,makingsureitcanbeseeneasily.
Tailor’schalkormarkingpencilmarksquicklyandeasily,directlyonthefabric.Chalkrubsoffquickly,souseitonlywhenyouplantosew
immediately.Atailortacker holdstwopiecesofchalkandmarksfrombothsides.
Liquidmarkingpensmakequickworkofmarkingtucks,darts,pleats,andpockets.Onetypedisappearswithin48hours.Theotherwashesoffwithwaterbutshouldnotbeusedonfabricsthatshowwatermarks.Pressingmaysetthemarkspermanently,soremovemarkingbeforepressingthearea.
MeasuringTools
Bodyandpatternmeasurementsbothrequiremeasuringtools.Toensureagoodfit,measureoftenandaccuratelywiththebesttoolforthejob.
Yardstickisforgeneralmarkingandformeasuringfabricgrainlinewhenlayingoutthepattern.Itshouldbemadeofsmoothhardwoodormetal.
See-throughrulerletsyouseewhatyoumeasureormark.Thisrulerisusedtocheckfabricgrainlineandtomarkbuttonholes,tucks,andpleats.
Tapemeasurehastheflexibilityrequiredtotakebodymeasurements.Selecta60"(150cm)longtapewithmetaltips,madeofamaterialthatwillnotstretch.Itshouldbereversible,withnumbersandmarkingsprintedonbothsides.
Rulerisforgeneralmarking.Themostusefulsizesare12"or18"(30.5or46cm)long.
Seamgaugehelpsmakequick,accuratemeasurementsforhems,buttonholes,andpleats.Itisasmall,6"(15cm)metalorplasticrulerwithaslidingmarker.
See-throughT-squareisusedtolocatecrossgrains,alterpatterns,andsquareoffstraightedges.
CuttingTools
Buyqualitycuttingtoolsandkeepthemattheirbestwithperiodicsharpeningbyaqualifiedprofessional.Scissorshavebothhandlesthesamesize;shearshaveonehandlelargerthantheother.Bladesshouldbejoinedwithanadjustablescrew(notarivet)toensureevenpressurealongthelengthoftheblade.Sharpshearsmakecleancutsandwell-definednotches.Moreimportant,theydonotdamagefabric.Dullshearsslowthecuttingprocess,andmakeyourhandandwristtireeasily.Sewingshearsshouldnotbeusedforotherhouseholdtaskssuchascuttingpaperortwine.Occasionallyputadropofoilonthescrewassembly,wipethemcleanwithasoftdryclothafteruse,andstoretheminaboxorpouch.
Bent-handleddressmaker’sshearsarebestforpatterncuttingbecausetheangleofthelowerbladeletsfabriclieflatonthecuttingsurface.Bladelengthsof7"or8"(18or20.5cm)aremostpopular,butlengthsupto12"(30.5cm)areavailable.Selectabladelengthappropriatetothesizeofyourhand.Left-handedmodelsarealsoavailable.Ifyousewagreatdeal,investinapairofall-steel,chrome-platedshearsforheavy-dutycutting.Thelightermodelswithstainlesssteelbladesandplastichandlesarefineforless-frequentsewingorlightweightfabrics.
Sewingscissors haveonepointedandoneroundedtipfortrimmingandclippingseamsandfacings.The6"(15cm)bladeismostpractical.
Embroideryscissors have4"or5"(10or12.5cm)finelytaperedblades.Bothpointsaresharpforuseinhandworkandprecisioncutting.
Seamripperquicklyripsseams,opensbuttonholes,andremovesstitches.Usecarefullytoavoidpiercingthefabric.
Threadclipperwithspring-actionbladesismoreconvenientthanshearsandsaferthanaseamripper.
Pinkingshearsorscallopingshearscutazigzagorscallopededgeinsteadofastraightone.Usedtofinishseamsandrawedgesonmanytypesoffabric,theycutaravel-resistantedge.
Rotarycutterworkslikeapizzacutterandcanbeusedbyleftorright-handedsewers.Usetherotarycutterwithaspecialplasticmatavailableindifferentsizes.Thematprotectsboththecuttingsurfaceand
theblade.Aspeciallockingmechanismretractsthebladeforsafety.
PressingTools
Pressingasyousewisoneimportantprocedurethatisoftenneglected.
Itmayseemlikeaneedlessinterruption,butpressingateachstageofconstructionisthesecrettoaperfectlyfinishedgarment.
Ifyouneedhelpgettingintothepressinghabit,locateyourpressingequipmentnearyoursewingarea.Italsohelpstopressinbatches.Dothisbystitchingasmuchaspossibleatthemachine.Thenpressallthestitchedareasatonetime.
Pressingdoesnotmeanironing.Inironing,youglidetheironoverthefabric.Inpressing,youmovetheironverylittlewhileitisincontactwiththefabric.Useminimumpressureontheiron,andpressinthedirectionofthefabricgrain.Lifttheirontomovetoanothersection.
Yourpatterndirectionsusuallytellwhentopress,butthegeneralruleis:Presseachstitchedseambeforecrossingwithanother.Pressonthewrongsidetopreventironshine,andprotecttheiron’ssoleplatebyremovingpinsbeforepressing.
Steam/sprayironshouldhaveawidetemperaturerangetoaccommodateallfabrics.Buyadependable,name-brandiron.Anironthatsteamsandspraysatanysetting,notjustthehigherheatsettings,ishelpfulforsyntheticfabrics.
Tailor’shamorpressingmittisusedwhenpressingshapedareassuch
ascurvedseams,darts,collars,orsleevecaps.Theham isafirmlypackedcushionwithroundedcurves.Onesideiscotton;theothersideis
coveredwithwooltoretainmoresteam.Themitt issimilartothehambutisespeciallyhandyforsmall,hard-to-reachareas.Itfitsoveryourhandorasleeveboard.
Pressclothhelpspreventironshineandisalwaysusedwhenapplyingfusibleinterfacing.Thetransparentvarietyallowsyoutoseeifthefabricissmoothandtheinterfacingproperlyaligned.
Sleeveboardlooksliketwosmallironingboardsattachedoneontopoftheother.Itisusedwhenpressingseamsanddetailsofsmallornarrowareassuchassleeves,pantslegs,ornecklines.
Pointpresser/clapperismadeofhardwoodandusedforpressingseamsopenincornersandpoints.Theclapperflattensseamsbyholdingsteamandheatinthefabric.Thistoolisusedintailoringtoachieveaflatfinishandsharpedgesonhardsurfacedfabrics.
Seamrollisafirmlypackedcylindricalcushionforpressingseams.Thebulkofthefabricfallstothesidesandnevertouchestheiron,preventingtheseamfrommakinganimprintontherightsideofthe
fabric.
SPECIALEQUIPMENT
Manykindsofspecialequipmentaredesignedtosavetimeinlayout,construction,andpressing.Themoreyousew,themoretheseaidswillbecomenecessities.Justasyouwouldinvestintimesavingdevicesforcookingandcleaning,investinsewingequipmenttomakeyourwardrobeandhomedecoratingprojectsgofaster.
Beforeusinganewproduct,readallinstructionscarefully.Learnwhatspecialhandlingorcareisrequired,andwhatfabricsortechniquesitissuitedfor.Hereisanoverviewofsomeofthesespecializedsewingproducts.
Table-topironingboardisportableandsavesspace.Itiseasytosetupnearyoursewingmachine.Thisironingboardkeepslargepiecesoffabriconthetablesotheydonotstretchoutordragonthefloor.Italsohelpscultivatethehabitofdetailpressingwhileyousew.
Needlegripperlockstighttoholdtheneedle,allowingneedletobepulledthroughheavyfabric.
Gluesubstitutesforpinningorbastingbyholdingfabric,leather,vinyl,felt,trims,patchpockets,andzippersinplaceforpermanentstitching.Useitforcraftworkaswellasgeneralsewing.Gluestickiswatersoluble,soitprovidesonlyatemporarybond.Liquidgluecanbedottedinseamallowancestoholdlayersoffabrictogether.
Liquidravelpreventerisacolorlessplasticliquidwhichpreventsfrayingbystiffeningfabricslightly.Itishelpfulwhenyouhaveclippedtoofarintoaseamallowanceorwanttoreinforceapocketorbuttonhole.Itdarkenslightcolorsslightly,soapplycautiously.Theliquidbecomesapermanentfinishthatwillwithstandlaunderinganddrycleaning.
Bastingtapeisdouble-facedadhesivetapethateliminatespinningandthreadbasting.Useitonleatherandvinylaswellasonfabric.Thetapeisespeciallyhelpfulformatchingstripesandplaids,applyingzippers,andpositioningpocketsandtrims.Donotmachinestitchthroughthetape,becausetheadhesivemayfoulyourmachineneedle.
Loopturnerisspeciallydesignedwithalatchhookdeviceatoneendtograspbiastubingorcordingandturnittotherightside.Itisquickerandeasierthanattachingasafetypintooneendandworkingthepinthrough.Becausethewireissofine,itcanbeusedforverynarrowtubingandbuttonloops.
Bodkinthreadsribbon,elastic,orcordthroughacasingwithouttwisting.Somebodkinshaveaneyethroughwhichribbonorelasticisthreaded;othershaveatweezerorsafetypinclosurethatgrabstheelastic.Thebodkinabovehasaringthatslidestotightentheprongsofthepincers.
Pointturnerpokesoutthetailoredpointsincollars,lapels,andpocketswithoutriskingatear.Madeofwoodorplastic,itspointfitsneatlyintocorners.Usethepointtoremovebastingthreadandtheroundedendtoholdseamlinesopenforpressing.
Buttonholecuttermakesprecisioncutsdownthecenterofbuttonholes.Itcomeswithawoodenblocktoplaceunderthefabric,toprotectyourworksurfaceandacceptthesharpthinbladeofthecutter.Abuttonholecutterismoreaccuratethanscissorsoraseamripperandlesslikelytocutthestitches.
Paper-backedfusiblewebissoldonrolls,invariousnarrowwidths.Itisatimesavingproductusedforadheringtwopiecesoffabrictogether.Aprotectivepaperbackingisremovedfromonesideaftertheothersidehasbeenheatfusedtothefabric.
Foldingcuttingboardprotectsafinetable’sfinishfrompinorshearsscratches.Italsopreventsfabricfromslippingwhilecutting,andholdsfabricmoresecurely.Stickpinsintoitforfasterpinning,squareofffabricagainstmarkedlines,andusethe1"(2.5cm)squaresasaninstantmeasure.Thefoldingfeaturemakesstorageeasy.
Weightsholdapatterninplaceforcutting.Theyeliminatetime-consumingpinningandunpinningofthepatternandprotectfabricsthatwouldbepermanentlymarkedbypins.Weightsaremosteasilyusedonsmallerpatternpieces.Somesewersuseitemslikecansofvegetablesinplaceofretailweights.
Magneticpincatcherandpincushionkeepall-steelpinsintheirplace.Thepincatcherattachestothethroatplateofthemachinetocatchpinsasyoupullthemoutwhilestitching.Themagnetic,weightedpincushionisespeciallyhandyforpickingpinsoffthefloor.Ifyouhaveacomputerizedmachine,avoidplacingthemagneticpincatcherorcushiononthemachine.
NOTIONS
Thread
Threadcomeswrappedonshortthickspools,longthinspools,orcones.Readthelabelscarefullytofindfibercontentandthreadweight.Selecthigh-qualitythreadaccordingtothefiberandweightofthefabricandthepurposeofthestitching.Asageneralguideline,useanaturalfiberthreadfornaturalfiberfabricsandsyntheticfiberthreadforsyntheticfabrics.Forperfecttension,usethesamesizeandtypethreadinthebobbinasyouuseintheneedle.
Finethreadreducesfabricpuckeringonlightweightfabrics.All-purposethreadmaybe100%polyesterorhaveapolyestercorewrappedwithcotton.Bothkindsaredesignedforhandandmachinesewingonallfabrics:naturalfibersandsynthetics,wovens,andknits.Heavythread,designedformachinestitchingondenimandcanvas,isusually100%polyesterforstrength.Itcanalsobeusedfortopstitchingtomakethestitchesmoreapparent.Buttonandcarpetthreadissuitableforhandsewingwhereextrastrengthisrequired.Itcanalsobeusedfortopstitching.
Sergerthreadiswrappedonlargeconesandisusually100%polyester.Tousethisthreadonyourconventionalmachine,placetheconeinajarbehindthemachineascloseaspossibletothefirstthreadguide.
Polyesterthreadisthestrongest,longestlasting,givenequalweight.Itissuitableformostgeneralsewingonmediumtoheavyfabrics,butavoidusingitonlightweightanddelicatefabrics.Whenseamsarestressed,polyesterthreadcanteardelicatefibers.Silkthreadisslightlyelasticandhasahighsheen,suitableformachineembroidery.Itisagoodchoiceforsewingonfinewoolorforhandappliquéandhemmingbecausethestitchessinkintothefabricandtendtodisappear.Avoidbleach,whichweakenssilkthread.Mercerizedcottonthreadisusedfornaturalfiberwovenfabricslikecotton,linen,andwool;itdoesnothaveenoughstretchforknits.
TrimsandTapes
Choosetrimsandtapesthatarecompatiblewithyourfabricandthread.Mosttrimsandtapescanbemachinestitched,butsomemustbeappliedbyhand.Preshrinktrimsforwashablegarments.
Single-foldbiastape,availablein¼",½",and7/8"(6mm,1.3cm,and2.2cm)widths,comesinawiderangeofsolidcolors.Thenarrowwidthisusedfor“windowpane”quilts.Themediumandwidetapesareusedforcasings,trim,andfacings.
Double-foldbiastapebindsarawedge.Itcomesin¼"(6mm)and½"(1.3cm)foldedwidths.
Laceseambindingisadecorative,flexiblelacehemfinish.
Seamtapeis100%polyester,½"(1.3cm)wide,usedtostayseamsandfinishhems.
Twilltapeisusedtostayseamsorrolllines.Itcanalsobeusedfordrawstringsorties.Twilltapeisavailableinvariouswidthsfrom¼"to1"(6mmto2.5cm)inblack,white,andlimitedcolors.
Cordedpipingisanaccenttriminsertedinseamstodefineanddecorateedges.
Braidisavailableinsoutacheandmiddystyles.Useitforaccent,scrollmotifs,drawstrings,ties,orbuttonloops.
Rickrackcomesin¼",½",and5/8"(6mm,1.3cm,and1.5cm)widthsforaccenttrimandedging.
Elasticisinsertedincasingstoshapewaistbands,wrists,andnecklines.Knittedandwovenelasticsaresofterthanbraidedelastics,curlless,andcanbestitcheddirectlyontothefabric.Nonrollwaistbandelastichaslateralribstokeepitfromtwistingorrolling.Clearelastic,
madeof100%polyurethane,isgreatforsheerfabrics,lingerie,andswimwear.
ButtonsandClosures
Selectthesenotionseithertoblendwiththegarmentorstandoutandmakeafashionstatement.Closurescanbedecorativeaswellasfunctional.
Sew-through,two-holeorfour-holebuttonsarecommonlyused,all-purposebuttons.
Shankbuttonshavea“neck”orshankunderneaththebutton.
Self-coveredbuttonscanbecoveredwiththesamefabricasthegarmentforanexactcolormatch.
Togglesarebarfastenersclosedwithfabricorcordloops,usedonlappedareas.
Frogsareloop-and-ballfastenersthatlendadressylooktospecialoutfits.
Snapsareinsideclosuresforareasthatdonotreceivemuchstress,suchascuffs.
Grippersnapsarehammeredonorappliedwithatoolontheoutsideofagarmentforadecorativeeffect.
Hooksandeyesareinsideclosuresavailableinsizesappropriatetovariousfabricweights.
Heavy-dutyhooksandeyesareusedtoclosewaistbandsonskirtsorpants.
Hookandloopfasteners(Velcro)areavailableintapesandsmallpieces.Theyareusedforclosuresonlappedareasofgarmentsorhomedécoritems.
Snaptapeisoftenusedonlegseamsofinfantclothesforeasydiaper
changes.Itisalsousefulforclosuresoncasualclothingandhomedécoritems.
Zippers
Zippershavemetalorplasticteeth,orasyntheticcoilattachedtoawoventape.Bothtypescomeinall-purposeweights.Coilzippersarelightweight,flexible,heat-resistant,andrustproof.Metalzipperscomeinheavierweightsforheavyfabricsandsportswear.Althoughzippersareusuallydesignedtoblendintothegarment,somearemadetobeshownoff.
Polyesterall-purposezippersaresuitableforfabricsofallweightsinskirts,pants,dresses,andhomedecoratingitems.
Metalall-purposezippersarestrong,durablezippersforsportswearaswellaspants,skirts,dresses,andhomedecoratingitems.
Brassjeanzippershavebrassteethonbluetapeswithaclosedbottom,designedforjeans,work,andcasualwearinmediumtoheavyweightfabrics.
Invisiblezippersareinsertedusingaspecialfootdesignedbythezippermanufacturer.Onceinstalled,thezipperishiddenintheseamandonlytheslimtabshows.
Metalseparatingzippers,availableinmediumandheavyweights,areusedinjackets,sportswear,andhomedecorating.Reversibleseparatingzippershavepulltabsthatfliptothefrontandbackofthezipper.
Plasticmoldedseparatingzippersarelightweightyetstronganddurable.Theirdecorativeappearancemakesthemanaturalforskiwearandoutdoorwear.Two-wayzippershavetwosliders,sotheycanbeopenedfromthetopandbottom.
Coilseparatingzippersaredesignedforsweatersandlightweightjackets.
ThePattern
Shoppingapatterncatalogismorecreativethanshoppingaready-to-wearcatalog.Inapatterncatalog,youaren’tlimitedtothefabric,color,skirtlength,orbuttonsyouseeonthepages.Youarethedesignerofyourownfashion.Youcanchoosethecombinationthatflattersyouandexpressesyourownpersonalstyle.
Patternselectionhasneverbeenbetter.Designerstylesareavailableinthesameseasonthattheyappearinready-to-wear.Thereareeasypatternsforthesewerwithlimitedtime.Youwillfindpatternsforaccessories,homedecoration,eveningwear,men’sandboys’fashions,andalmosteverykindofwomen’sorchildren’sgarment.
Thepatterncatalogisdividedintocategoriesbysizeorfashionlook.Thenewestfashionsusuallyappearinthefirstfewpagesofeachcategory.Patternillustrationsareaccompaniedbyinformationonrecommendedfabricsandyardagerequirements.Anindexatthebackofthecataloglistspatternsinnumericalorderalongwiththeirpagenumbers.Thebackofthecatalogalsoincludesacompletesizechartforeveryfiguretype:male,female,children,andinfants.
Matchthepattern’slevelofsewingdifficultytoyoursewingexperience.Forsuccess,selectapatternappropriatetoyoursewingskill.Ifyourtimeorpatienceislimited,staywithsimplerstyles.
Thenumberofpatternpieceslistedonthebackofthepatternisacluetothecomplexityofthepattern.Thefewerthepieces,theeasierthepattern.Detailslikeshirtcuffs,collarbands,pleats,andtucksalsomakeapatternmoredifficulttosew.Easy-to-sewpatternsfeaturefewofthese
details.
Allpatterncompaniesfollowauniformsizingbasedonstandardbodymeasurements.Thisisnotexactlythesameasready-to-wearsizing.Toselecttherightpatternsize,firsttakeyourstandardbodymeasurements.Wearyourusualundergarmentsanduseatapemeasurethatdoesn’tstretch.Foraccuracy,haveanotherpersonmeasureyou.Recordyourmeasurementsandcomparethemwiththesizechartprovidedinthepatterncatalog.
HowtoTakeStandardBodyMeasurements
Waistline.Tieastringorpieceofelasticaroundyourmiddleandallowittorolltoyournaturalwaistline.Measureatthisexactlocationwithtapemeasure.Leavestringinplaceasareferenceformeasuringhipsandbackwaistlength.
Hips.Measurearoundthefullestpart.Thisisusually7"to9"(18to23cm)belowthewaistline,dependingonyourheight.
Highbust.Placetapemeasureunderarms,acrosswidestpartofbackandabovefullbustline.Patternsizechartsdonotincludeahighbustmeasurement,butthismeasurementshouldbecomparedwiththefullbusttochoosetherightsizepattern.
Fullbust.Placetapemeasureunderarms,acrosswidestpartofthebackandfullestpartofbustline.Note:Ifthereisadifferenceof2"(5cm)ormorebetweenhighandfullbust,selectpatternsizebyhighbustmeasurement.
Backwaistlength.Measurefrommiddleofthemostprominentboneatthebaseoftheneckdowntowaistlinestring.
Height.Measurewithoutshoes.Standwithyourbackagainstawall.Placearulerontopofyourheadandmarkthewall.Measurefromthemarktothefloor.
THEPATTERNENVELOPE
Thepatternenvelopecontainsawealthofinformation,fromadescriptionofthegarmenttotheamountoffabricneeded.Itgivesideasforfabricandcolorselection.Theenvelopehelpsyoudeterminethedegreeofsewingdifficultywithlabelsthatindicatewhetherthestyleisadesigneroriginal,easy-to-seworonlysuitableforcertainfabrics.Onthepatternenvelope,you’llalsofindalltheinformationneededtoselectfabricandnotions.
TheEnvelopeFront
Viewsarealternatedesignsofthepattern.Theymayshowoptionaltrims,lengths,fabriccombinationsordesigndetailstoappealtoabeginner,orchallengeanexperiencedsewer.
Patterncompanynameandstylenumberareprominentlydisplayedonthepatternenvelope.
Fashionphotographorillustrationshowsthemainpatterndesign.Itsuggestssuitablefabrictypessuchaswoolorcotton,andfabricdesignssuchasprintorplaid.Ifyouareunsureofyourfabricchoice,usethepatternillustrationasyourguide.Itisthedesigner’sinterpretationofthefashion.
Designeroriginalpatterns,indicatedbythedesigner’sname,oftencontainmoredifficult-to-sewdetailssuchastucks,topstitching,linings,orunderlinings.Forsewerswhohavethetimeandskill,thesepatternsprovidedesignerfashionsthatduplicateready-to-wear.
Labelsmayidentifyapatternthathaseasyconstructionmethods,isdesignedfortimesavingsewing,hasspecialfittingorsize-relatedinformation,orshowshowtohandlefabricslikeplaids,knits,orlace.Eachpatterncompanyhasspecialcategoriesandnamesforthesedesigns.
Sizeandfiguretypeareindicatedatthetoporsideofthepattern.Ifthepatternismulti-sized,suchas8–10–12,youwillfindcuttinglinesforallthreesizesononepattern.
TheEnvelopeBack
Bodymeasurementandsizechartisareferencetodetermineifyouneedtomakealterations.Foramulti-sizedpattern,compareyourmeasurementswiththoseinthecharttodecidewhichcuttinglinetouse.
Garmentdescriptionsincludeinformationonstyle,fit,andhowthegarmentisconstructed.
Stylenumberisrepeatedonthebackoftheenvelope.
Yardageblocktellsyouhowmuchfabrictobuyforthesizeandgarmentviewyouhaveselected.Yardageforlining,interfacing,andtrimsisalsolisted.Todeterminehowmuchfabricyouneed,matchthegarmentorviewandthefabricwidthattheleftwithyoursizeatthetopofthechart.Thenumberwherethetwocolumnsmeetisthenumberofyardstobuy.Themostcommonfabricwidthsaregiven.Ifthewidthofyourfabricisnotgiven,checktheconversionchartatthebackofthepatterncatalog.Somepatternslisttheextrayardagerequiredfornappedfabricsorunevenplaids.
Metricequivalentsofbodymeasurementsandyardageareincludedforcountriesthatusethemetricsystem.
Fabrictypessuitableforthegarmentsaresuggested.Usethemasageneralguidetofabricselection.Thespecialadvice,suchas“unsuitableforstripesorobviousdiagonals,”alertsyoutofabricsthatarenotappropriate.
Finishedgarmentmeasurementsindicatefinishedlengthandwidth.Youmayneedtomakelengthadjustments.The“widthatloweredge”isthemeasurementatthehemmededge,indicatingthefullnessofthegarment.
Notions,suchasthread,zipper,buttons,andseambinding,whicharerequiredforgarmentconstructionarelisted.Purchasethematthesametimeasthefabrictoensureagoodcolormatch.
Backviewsshowthedetailsandstyleofthegarments’back.
Numberofpatternpiecesgivesanideaofhoweasyorcomplicatedthepatternistosew.
INSIDETHEPATTERN
Openthepatternenvelopetofindtheprintedpatternpiecesandthedirectionsheetwhichguidesyou,step-by-step,throughtheconstructionofthegarment.Readthroughthedirectionsheetbeforecuttingorsewing.Useittoplanandorganizeyoursewingtime,andalertyoutothetechniquesyouneedtoknowasyouprogress.
Viewsofasinglegarmentarelabeledbynumberorletter.Patternswhichincludeseveraldifferentgarmentssuchasaskirt,jacket,andpants(calledwardrobepatterns)usuallyfeatureonlyoneversionofeach.Inthiscase,eachgarmentisidentifiedbynameonly.Allpatternpiecesareidentifiedwithanumberandname,suchasskirtfront.
Fashiondrawingsandviewsarefeaturedprominentlyonthedirectionsheet,sketchedastheyappearonthefrontoftheenvelopeorasdetailedlinedrawings.Somepatternsillustrateeachgarmentseparatelywiththepatternpiecesusedinitsconstruction.Mostpatternsillustrateallthepatternpiecestogether,withakeytoidentifythepiecesusedforeachgarmentorview.
Generalinstructionsaregivenasashortrefreshersewingcourse.Theseinstructionsmayhaveadifferentnameoneachpattern,buttheygenerallycontaintipsonhowtousethepattern.Includedisinformationonpatternandfabricpreparation;explanationofpatternmarkings;cutting,layout,andmarkingtips;andashortglossaryofsewingterms.Theeasy-to-sewandbeginnerpatternsoftenincorporatethesetipsintothestep-by-stepinstructions.
Cuttinglayoutsareshownforeachgarmentview.Theydifferaccordingtothewidthofthefabric,patternsize,andwhetherthefabrichasnap.Layoutsforinterfacingandliningarealsoincluded.Whenthefabricistobecutinasinglethicknessoronthecrosswisegrain,thepatternlayoutindicatesthiswithasymbol,explainedinthegeneralinstructions.Apatternpiece,rightsideup,isillustratedwithoutshading;wrongsideup,itisshadedorscored.Circlethelayoutforthecorrectpatternsize,fabricwidth,andview.
Sewingdirectionsareastep-by-stepguidetoconstructingthegarment,arrangedbyviews.Besideeachinstructionisasketchillustratingthesewingtechnique.Therightsideofthefabricusuallyappearsshaded;thewrongside,plain.Interfacingisindicatedwithdots.Together,thesketchandthedirectionsgiveyouaclearpictureofexactlywhattodo.Rememberthattheseareonlygeneraldirections.Analternativetechniquemaybemoreeffectiveforthefabricyouareusing.
ThePatternPieces
Thepatternpiecetissuemaylooklikeitisprintedwithsecretsymbolsbut,likeinternationalroadsigns,thesemarkingsareuniversalsymbolsusedbyallpatterncompanies.Patternsymbolsareusedfromthetimeyoustarttolayoutthepatternuntilyoufinishthehemorsewthelastbuttoninplace.
Patternpieceshaveinstructionsaswellassymbolsprintedonthem.Followtheseinstructionsjustascarefullyasyoufollowthoseonthedirectionsheet.
Layoutandcuttingsymbolssuchasgrainlinesdonotneedtobetransferredtothefabric.Constructionsymbolsmustbetransferredtothefabricforaccurategarmentconstruction(page81).
FabricEssentialsAllfabricsarebasedontwokindsoffibers:naturalorman-made.Naturalfibersarethosederivedfromplantsoranimals:cotton,wool,silk,andlinen.Man-madefibersareproducedbychemicalprocesses.Theyincludepolyester,nylon,acetate,spandex,andmanyothers.
Combiningnaturalandman-madefibersproducesblendswhichgiveyouthebestqualitiesofseveralfibers.Forexample,thestrengthofnylonmaybeaddedtothewarmthofwool,theeasycareofpolyestertothecomfortofcotton.
Thereisanalmostendlessvarietyofblendsavailable,andeachonebehavesdifferently.Checkthefibercontentontheboltendforthekindsandquantitiesoffibersused.Careinstructionsarealsolisted.Examinethehandofthefabric—howitfeels,howitdrapes,whetheritcrusheseasilyorravels,whetheritstretches.Drapethefabricoveryourhandorarmtodetermineifitisassoftorcrisp,heavyorlight,asyouneedforaparticularproject.
Fabricsarealsoclassifiedbyfabrication,meaninghowtheyaremade.Allfabricsareeitherwoven,knit,ornonwoven.Themostcommonwovenistheplainweaveconstruction.Thisisfoundinfabricssuchasmuslins,poplin,andtaffeta.Denimandgabardinearediagonalweaves.Cottonsateenisasatinweave.Knitsalsohaveseveralclassifications.Jerseyisanexampleofaplainknit.Sweaterknitscanbemadebythepurl,patterned,orraschelknitprocesses.Feltisanexampleofanonwovenfabric.
Selectingtherightfabricforyoursewingprojecttakesalittlepractice.Refertothebackofthepatternenvelopeforsuggestions,andlearntofeelthehandoffabric.Qualityfabricdoesn’thavetobeexpensive.Choosewell-madefabricthatwillwearwellandstaylookinggood.
Easy-to-SewFabrics
Therearemanyfabricsthatareeasyandquicktosew.Thesefabricsaregenerallyplainweaveorfirmknit,ofmediumweight.Mostdonotrequirecomplicatedseamfinishesorspecialhandling,sincetheyravelverylittle.
Smallprints,overallprints,andnarrowstripesareeasytosewbecausetheydonotrequirematchingattheseams.Prints,especiallyiftheyaredark,hidestitchingimperfections.
Plain-weavefabrics,suchaspoplinorcottonbroadcloth,arealwaysgoodchoices.Stableormoderate-stretchknitsdonotneedseamfinishing,andtheirstretchabilitymakesfittingeasier.Natural-fiberfabrics,suchascottonsandlightweightwools,areeasytosewbecausestitchingblendsintothesefabrics.
Formoreexamplesofeasy-to-sewfabrics,consultthesuggestedfabricsthatarelistedonthebacksofeasy-to-sewpatterns.
HANDLINGSPECIALFABRICS
Certainfabrics,becauseoftheirdesignorfabrication,needspecialattentionduringlayoutandconstruction.Someeasy-to-sewfabricsfallintothiscategory.Thespecialhandlingrequiredisusuallynotdifficult.Oftenyouneedonlyaddonemorestep,suchasaseamfinish,orexercisealittlemorecare.
Nappedandpilefabricssuchasvelvet,velveteen,velour,flannel,andcorduroyrequirespecialcareincuttingout.Thesefabricsappearlightandshinywhenbrushedinonelengthwisedirection,anddarkwhenbrushedintheotherdirection.Topreventyourgarmentfromhavingatwo-tonedlook,youmustfollowthe“withnap”layoutsonthepatterninstructionsheet.Decidewhichwayyouwantthenaptolie,andcutallpatternpieceswiththetopedgesfacingthesamedirection.
Althoughsatinandmoirétaffetaarenotnappedfabrics,theirsurfacesreflectlightdifferentlyineachlengthwisedirection.Decidewhicheffectyouprefer,anduseaone-waylayout.
Sheerfabricslookbestwithspecialseamsandseamfinishes.Unfinishedseamallowancesdetractfromthefragile,see-throughlookofvoile,batiste,eyelet,orchiffon.Frenchseamsareaclassicchoice,butotherseamfinishescanalsobeused.
Twillweavefabricssuchasdenimandgabardinehavediagonalridges.Iftheseridgesareverynoticeable,usea“withnap”layoutforcutting,andavoidpatternsthatarenotsuitableforobviousdiagonals.Denimravelseasilyandrequiresenclosedseams.
Plaidsandstripesrequirespecialcareinlayoutandcutting(pages76to80).Tomatchplaidsandlargestripesatseams,youneedtobuyextrafabric.Buy¼to½yd.(0.25to0.5m)morethanthepatterncallsfor,dependingonthesizeofthedesign.
Knitsmustbehandledgentlyduringconstructiontokeepthemfromstretchingoutofshape.Specialstitchesandseamfinishes(page109)are
neededtomaintaintherightamountofstretch.
One-waydesignfabrics,suchassomeflowerandpaisleyprints,requirea“withnap”cuttinglayoutsothedesigndoesnotgouponesideofthegarmentanddowntheother.Borderprintsarecutonthecrosswiseratherthanlengthwisegrainofthefabric.Theyusuallyrequiremoreyardage.Selectpatternswhichshowaborderprintviewandspecifythecorrectyardage.
GuidetoFabricsandSewingTechniques
ClassicFabricTexturesandDesignsWhetherornotyouhavehadmuchsewingexperience,thisgroupoffabricsprobablylooksfamiliarbecauseitincludesfabricsthatarealwaysinfashion.Somerequireout-of-the-ordinarysewingtechniques,andsomeneedspecialhandlingbecausetheyhaveuniquesurfacetextures.Othersrateextraattentionbecausetheyhavewoven,knitted,orprinteddesignsthataffectpatternlayout.
Looseweaveshavecoarseoruneventexturesandtendtofray.Theprimarysewingchallengewithlooselywovenfabricsistocontrolraveling.
Plaidsrequirecarefulpatternlayout.Studythefabricbeforepatternlayouttodecidewhichbarsaredominant,wheretopositionthemonthepatternpieces,andwhetherthedesignhasaone-waydirection.Arrangethepatternpiecessothefabricdesignmatchesatthemostnoticeableseams.Carefulpinningorbastingensuresagainstmismatches.
Stripesrequirehandlingsimilartothatofplaids.Carefullayoutandbastingisnecessarytomatchstripesattractively.
Largeprintsareamongthemostdramatictypesoffabricdesigns.Printrepeatscanbeaslargeas24"(61cm).Withprintsthissize,positiontheprintmotifsforpleasingbalance.
Diagonalfabricsarewoven,knitted,orprinteddesignsthatcrossthestraightfabricgrainonaslant.Tosewdiagonals,itisnecessarytoadaptpatternsforspeciallayoutssothediagonallinesflowaroundthebodyinthesamedirection.
Gabardineisafirmlywovenfabricwithatwillweave.Characteristicofthisweavearethefinediagonalribsontherightside.Thesurfaceishardandlongwearing.Thistextureneedsa“withnap”patternlayoutforuniformcolorshadinginthecompletedgarment.
Velvetissimilartovelveteenbecausethepilecoverstheentiresurface,butitismadeadifferentway.Avelvetpileisformedfromwarp(lengthwise)—yarnswovenintothebase.Thiscreatesadeep,straight,erectpile.Velvetishandledthesamewayascorduroyandvelveteen.
Velveteenismadebyshearingpileloops,butunlikecorduroy,theloopscovertheentiresurface.Velveteenrequirestechniquesforlayout,stitching,andpressingsimilartothoseforcorduroy.
Corduroyhasaribbedpile,formedbyshearedrowsofloopsorribsthatcontrastwiththeflatbaseofthefabric.Usea“withnap”layoutandsewingtechniquesthatkeepthefabricfromshiftingwhileitisbeingstitched.Specialpressingtechniquesarealsonecessary.
LOOSEWEAVES
Looselywovenfabricsareoftenmadefromyarnsthatarethickandlightlyspuntopreserveirregularitiesandcreateahand-loomedlook.Twoconsiderationsaretocontroltheravelingandtomaintainthesoft,loosehandofthefabric.
Thelooselywovenbasketweaveahastwoormoreyarnswoventogether
in basketeffect.Heavyrawsilk isravel-pronebecauseofthe
thickandthincrosswiseyarns.Gauzefabrics ,lightweightandcrinkly,shouldbehandledwithsewingtechniquesforsheerfabrics.The
homespunlook isachievedwithlightlyspunyarnsthatraveleasily.
Apulledthreadlook createsanoveltywindowpaneeffect.
PatternSelection
Chooseapatternthathasthepotentialforomittinglinings,facings,andinterfacings,aswellasclosuressuchasbuttonsandzippers.Manyjacket,blouse,andskirtpatterns,especiallypulloverorwrapstyles,canbeadaptedthisway.Thelessstablethefabric,themorelooselyfittedthepatternshouldbe.Simplestylesarethebest.Testthestabilityoflooselywovenfabricsbydrapingthefabricoveryourhandandlettingalengthhangfreely.Seehowmuchitstretchesandwhetheritdrapessoftly.Gentlytugonthetruebiasgraintogetafeelingfortheamountthefabricgivesinthisdirection.
FabricPreparation
Preshrinkalllooseweaves,usingthecaremethodplannedforthefinishedgarment.Topreventexcessiveraveling,zigzagcrosswisecutendsorbindthemwithsheerbiastricotbindingbeforewashing.Towash,treatlooseweaveslikedelicatefabrics.Airdrytopreventshrinkagefromtheheatofadryer.Rollthefabricintowelstoremoveexcessmoisture.Spreadonaflatsurface,andstraightenthegrain.
Layout,Cutting,andMarking
Itisimportanttoarrangethefabricstraightandon-grainforpatternlayout.Anywavygrainlineswillshowclearlyonthefinishedgarment.Whenthefabrictexturecomesfromnubby,irregularyarns,usea“withnap”layout.Spacepinscloselytoanchorthepatternpiecessecurelytothefabric.
Ifyouareworkingwithafabricthatfraysreadily,cutoutthepatternwith1"(2.5cm)seamallowances.Widerseamallowancesareeasiertohandleforspecialseamandedgefinishes,andtheyprovideamplefabricforcleancutsonrawedgesthatmustbetrimmed.Transferpatternmarkingswithmarkingpenorthreadbasting.
SpecialSeamTechniques
Plainseamwithrawedgesenclosedinsheertricotbiasbindingisquick,neattreatment.Usezigzag,3-stepzigzag,orlongstraightstitches,10to12perinch(2.5cm).
Flat-fellseam,formedonrightsideofgarment,makesreversibleseamwhichisidealforroll-upsleevesorotherareasshowingbothfacesofseams.
Overlockedseam,sewnon4-threadoverlockmachineor3-threadmachinewitharowofstraightstitches,coversrawedgeswiththread.
SpecialHemTechniques
Topstitchtostabilizehemedges.Thismethodisfastandattractive.Finishrawedgebeforehemming;useazigzagstitchora2-threador3-threadoverlockstitch.
Bindedgewithsheertricotbiasbinding.Handhemwithblindcatchstitchorblindhem,workedlooselybetweengarmentandhem.
Fringeedge.Pullathreadatdesireddepthoffringe.Stitchonthread-pulledline(arrow);thenonebyoneremovefabricyarnsbelowstitching.
CORDUROYANDVELVETEEN
Corduroy,madefromcottonorablendofcotton/polyesterfibers,comesinmanyforms.Corduroysareusuallynamedaccordingtothesizeandstyleoftheribs(wales).
Pinwalecorduroy,alsonamedbabywaleorfinewalecorduroy,islightweightandhas16ribsperinch(2.5cm).
Midwalecorduroyisheavierthanpinwaleandhasfewerribs.
Widewale,alsocalledjumbowale,isaheavyweightcorduroywithasfewasthreeribsperinch(2.5cm).
Thickandthincorduroyisoneofthemanynoveltyvariationswithalternatingsizesofribs.
Riblesscorduroyresemblesthealloverplushpileofvelveteen.
Traditionally,corduroyisusedforcasualsportsclothesandchildren’swearbecauseitisdurableandwashable.Selectpatternsaccordingtotheformyouwishtouse.
Theheavierthefabricandthebulkierthewales,thesimplerthepatternstyleshouldbe.Lightweightcorduroysdrapesoftlyandcanbeusedformoredetailedstyles,includingthosewithgatheredsectionsorruffles.Midweightcorduroysareoftenusedfortailoredjackets.
Velveteen,likecorduroy,maybeall-cottonoracotton/polyesterblend,butthetextureisshorterandthickerthanthatofcorduroy.Velveteenisamedium-weightfabricusedwheneverthelookofvelvetisdesired.Velveteeniseasiertosewandmoredurablethanvelvet.
FabricPreparation
Preshrinkcorduroyandvelveteentopreparethemforpatternlayout.Tumbledrytofluffupthepile.Thisisespeciallyimportantforall-cottontypes,eventhoughprewashingfadesstrongcolorsandcanmakethefabriclookwornsooner.Polyester/cottontypesshrinkless,arelesslikelytofade,andshedwrinklesbetterthanthosemadeofall-cotton.
StitchingTips
Pilefabricssuchascorduroyandvelveteentendtoshiftasyoustitch.AnEvenFeedfootorrollerfoothelpstopreventthis.Itishelpfultopinseamsatcloseintervalsandtopracticetautsewing,holdingthefabricundertensioninfrontofandbehindthepresserfoot.Stitchinthedirectionofthenaptokeepthepilefabrictexturesmooth.
Somesewingmachineadjustmentsmaybeneededforasmooth,balancedstitch.Usealongstitch,10to12perinch(2.5cm),onmostcorduroysandvelveteens.Onthick,bulkycorduroy,decreasepressureonthepresserfoot.
Therawedgesofcorduroyandvelveteenraveleasily,sofinishthemwithbindingoroverlocking.Gradeenclosedseamstoreducebulk,butdonottrimtooclosely.Enclosedrawedgescanravelunlesstopstitchedortreatedwithliquidfraypreventer.
Hembulkyorheavycorduroysandvelveteenbyhand.Orfacethehemtoreducebulk.Usepurchasedhemfacing,orcut2"(5cm)-widebiasstripsofpolyester/cottonbroadcloth.
SewingTechniquesforCorduroyandVelveteen
Decidewhichcolorshadingyoupreferbeforepatternlayout.Whennapfeelssmootherrunninguptowardtopofgarment,colorlooksdarker.Whennapfeelssmootherrunningdowntowardgarmenthem,colorlookslighterwithslightsheen.Corduroywearslongerwhennaprunsdown.
Markcutoutpatternsectionswithchalkandpinsormarkingpen;markonlyonwrongsideoffabriclayers.Donotusetracingwheelanddressmaker’scarbonpaperwithouttesting;tracingwheelcanmarplushtextures.
Pressplushtexturesgently.Placeself-fabricscrap,rightsideup,onpressingsurfaceandplacegarment,rightsidedown,ontop.Pressgentlytoavoidflatteningpile.Topreventimprintsonrightside,usepaperstripsunderseamallowances,orpressseamsopenonaseamroll.
Finishallrawedgestopreventraveling.Useazigzagstitch ,bias
binding ,oreither2-threador3-thread overlockusingextra-finethread.
Gradeenclosedseamallowancestoreducebulk.Optionaltopstitchingmaybeplacedfarenoughinfromedgetoencloserawedgesofgradedseam.Thispreventsravelingandstrengthensgarmentedges.
Hemwithcatchstitch.Bind,zigzag,oroverlockrawhemedgetopreventraveling.Workblindcatchstitchbetweenhemandgarment,usingloosestitchestopreventhemimprint.
KNITS
Aknitisafabricmadefrominterlockingloopedstitches.Becauseofthisconstruction,knitsshedwrinkleswell,arecomfortabletowear,andareeasytosewbecausetheydonotravel.Knitscanbegroupedintofivegeneralcategories.
Firm,stableknitsdonotstretchsignificantlyandarehandledsimilarly
towovenfabrics.Inthisgrouparedoubleknits ,whichhavefinelengthwiseribsonbothsides.Itisdifficulttotelltherightandwrongsideofadoubleknitunlesstherightsidehasadecorativedesign.
Raschelknit isalacyoropenknittexturethatdoesnotstretchbecauselengthwisethreadsarelockedintosomeoftheknittedloops.
Lightweightsingleknitshavefineribsrunninglengthwiseontherightsideandloopsrunningcrosswiseonthewrongside.Pullthecrosswiseedgeofasingleknitanditwillrolltotherightside.Singleknitssuchas
jersey ,tricot ,andinterlock donotstretchlengthwise,buttheydohavecrosswisegive.
Texturedknitsmaybesingleordoubleknits,whicharedistinguished
byasurfacetexture,usuallyontherightside.Knittedterry and
velour arepileknitsthatlookliketheirwovennamesakes;however,theyusuallyhaveagreatdealofcrosswisestretch.Anothertexturedknit
isthesweaterknit .Patternedsweaterknitshavefloatsonthewrongsidewherecoloredyarnsarecarriedfromonemotiftoanother.This
limitstheircrosswisestretch.Comfortablesweatshirtfleece lookslikeasingleknitontherightside;thewrongsidehasasoft,brushedsurface.Itisusuallystablewithlittlestretch.
Two-waystretchknitshaveagreatdegreeofstretchcrosswiseandlengthwiseandahighpercentageofresilientspandexfibers.Absorbent
cotton/spandexandcotton/polyester/spandexknits arefavoredforactivesportswearsuchasleotards,bodysuits,andaerobicexercise
outfits.Strongnylon/spandexknits areresilient,evenwhenwet,andareusuallyselectedforswimwear.
Ribbingisaverystretchyknitthatcanbeusedfortopsandforfinishingknitgarmentsatwrists,ankles,neck,andwaist.Onetypeistubular
ribbing ,whichissoldbytheinch(2.5cm)andmustbecutopen
alongonelengthwiseribforsewing.Anothertypeisribtrim ,whichiscolorcoordinatedwithsweaterknits;oneedgeisprefinished,andtheotherissewntothegarment.
TechniquesforKnits
Patternsforknitsdependonthestretchcharacteristicsandweightoftheknit.Thelistofsuggestedfabricsonthebackofapatternenvelopeusuallyincludesacombinationofknitandwovenfabrics.Ifaknitissoftandlightweight,suchasjersey,itissuitableforpatternsthathavegathers,draping,andsimilarfeatures.Ifitisfirm,suchasdoubleknit,apatternwithtailoringorashaped,fittedsilhouetteissuitable.Ifitisbulkyortextured,suchasasweaterknit,apatternwithfewseamsanddetailsworksbesttoshowofftheknittexture.
Certainpatterns,however,requireknitsthatstretch.Thesearecloselyfittedpatternstyles,suchasswimsuitsandleotards,whichwouldbetoosmalltowearifmadefromafabricwithoutelasticity,ortopsandpantsthatusetheknitforacomfortableclose-to-the-bodyfit.Mostpatternsdesignedforknitshaveastretchgaugeprintedonthebackoftheenvelope.Testtheknitthatyouhaveselectedagainsttherulergauge.
Whenthepatternspecifies“two-waystretchknit,”testthecrosswiseandlengthwisestretchabilityoftheknit.
Patternsdesignedforknitsoftenhave¼"(6mm)seamallowances.Ifthepatternyouhaveselectedhas5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances,trimthemto¼"(6mm)whenusingknitsewingtechniques.
FabricPreparation
Forbestresults,preshrinkknits.Washanddrythemiftheywillbewashedaspartoftheirroutinecare.Useabulkdry-cleanerifthefinishedgarmentwillbedry-cleaned.Itisnotnecessarytopreshrinkribbingunlessusingadark-coloredribbingonalight-coloredgarment.
If,afterpreshrinking,aknitstillhasacreasewhereitwasfoldedonthebolt,steamthecrease.Ifthecreasecannotberemovedbysteaming,itispermanent.Refoldtheknitforpatternlayouttopreventthecreasefromshowingonthegarment.
Tostraightentheendsofknits,drawachalklineacrossthecutcrosswiseedgesatrightanglestotheribs.Cutthefabriconthechalkline.
HowtoUseaStretchKnitGauge
Correctknitforpatternstretcheseasilytoright-handsideofthegaugeprintedonpatternenvelope.Totest,foldcrosswiseedgeofknitover3"to4"(7.5to10cm),andtestfoldagainstgauge.Knitthatstretchesevenmorethangaugerequirementsmaystillbeusedforpattern.
Wrongknitforpatternisforcedbeyondreasonablelimitstosatisfygaugeprintedonpatternenvelope.Ribsofknitaredistorted,andstretchededgefoldsoveronitselfbecauseoftoomuchstressonfabric.Knitdoesnothaveenoughnaturalelasticityforthispatternstyle.
Pressing
Pressknitsonthelengthwiseribsbyliftingandloweringtheiron.Usealowirontemperaturesetting,andraisethetemperatureasneeded.Donotpressacrosstheribsorhandlethefabricuntilitiscompletelycooled.Eitheractioncanstretchknitsoutofshape.
Blocksweaterknitsinsteadofpressing.Toblock,patthefabricorthegarmentintoshapeonaflatsurface.Steamwithahandsteamer,orholdasteamironabovetheknitsurface.Allowthefabrictodryandcoolcompletelybeforefurtherhandling.
PatternLayout
Alwaysusea“withnap”patternlayoutonknits.Becauseofknitconstruction,theyhaveadirectionalqualitythatshowsupasadifferenceincolorshadinginthecompletedgarment.
Stretchbothcrosswiseedgesofaknitbeforepatternlayouttoseeiftheknitruns.Ifso,therunswilloccurmorereadilyalongoneedgethantheother.Whenyoulayoutthepattern,positiontherunproneedgeatthegarmenthemline.Thehemissubjecttolessstress,sotheknitwillbelesslikelytorunafterthegarmentissewn.
Whenlayingoutandcuttingaknitfabric,donotletithangofftheworksurface.Theweightofthefabriccandistorttheportionontheworksurface,pullingitoffgrain.
Onbulkyortexturedknits,itiseasiertolayoutthepatternonasinglelayeroffabric.Positionthetexturedsidedown;pinandmarkonthesmoother,wrongsideoftheknit.Useweightsinsteadofpinsonknitswithopenorlacytextures.
Interfacings
Interfaceknitsstabilizedetails,suchasbuttonholes,plackets,andpatchpockets,andtosupportshapedareassuchascollars.Selectasuppleinterfacingthatdoesnotchangethecharacteroftheknit.Twotypesofinterfacingsespeciallysuitableforknitsarefusibletricotandstretchnonwoven.
TipsforInterfacingKnits
Fusibletricotinterfacingaddssupportandbodytofashionknitswithoutaddingstiffness.Italsoallowsforsomecrosswisestretch.Usetricottostabilizedetailareassuchascuffs,pockets,andplackets.
Stretchnonwoveninterfacingstabilizesknitlengthwisebutallowsknittostretchcrosswise.Usethisinterfacingforflexibleshapingincollars,necklines,facings,tabs,andzipperopenings.
SHEERANDSILKYFABRICS
Sheerfabricscanhaveasoftorcrisphand;crispsheersareeasierto
cutandsew.Softsheersarebatiste ,chiffon ,Chinasilk ,
andgeorgette .Crispsheersincludefabricssuchasorganza ,voile ,andorgandy .
Themajorconsiderationwithsheerfabricsistheirtransparentquality.Thestitchesontheinsideofasheergarmentshowfromtheoutside.Whetherrevealedclearlyorasmereshadows,detailssuchasseams,facings,andhemsmustbeneatandnarrowtolookwellmade.
Silkyfabricsaremadefromnaturalsilkfibersorsyntheticfibersthatlooklikesilk,suchaspolyester,nylon,rayon,andacetate.Thepolyestertypesarepopularbecausetheyarelesscostlythansilkfabrics.Mostsyntheticsilk-likefabricsdonotshrinkorfade,andcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Thisgroupoffabricsincludescharmeuse ,crepedechine ,lightweightjacquardweaves ,
lightweightsatinbackedcrepe ,andtissuefaille .
Evenwhensilkandsyntheticsilk-likefabricsdonothavethesee-throughcharacterofsheers,theydohavesimilarfineweavesandlightweights.Innerconstructioncanshowasridgesontheoutsideofsilkygarments.Thatiswhymanyofthesamesewingsuppliesandtechniquesaresuggestedforbothkindsoffabrics.Anadditionalconsiderationwithsilk-likefabricsistheirsmooth,slicktexture,whichmakesthemslipperytohandle.Youwillneedtotakespecialstepswhenlayingoutandcuttingthepatternpiecestocontrolthesefabrics.
GuidetoSewingSheerandSilkyFabrics
TechniquesforSheerandSilkyFabrics
Keepinmindthedelicatenatureofsheerandsilkyfabricswhenchoosingpatterns.Themostsuitablepatterndesignsarethosethatfitlooselyandhavegraceful,flowinglines.Lookforsoftdetailssuchasgathers,ruffles,shirring,ordraping.Crispsheers,however,canbesewnfrompatternswithtailored,shirt-styledetails.Bias-cutpatternsectionscanbedifficulttohandleonsilkandsyntheticsilkfabrics,whichstretchagreatdealaswellasslipandslide.
Forsheers,thefewerseams,darts,facings,andotherdetailstosew,thelessinsideconstructionwillshowthroughtotherightside.Also,thelesstimeyouwillspendwithspecialfinishingtechniques.Avoidpatternsthatrequirezippers,andomitin-seampocketsbecausezippersandpocketsarebulkyandcancreateanunattractiveshow-throughontheoutsideofthegarment.
FabricPreparation
Forbestresults,washanddrysheerandsilkyfabricsbeforeyoubeginworkingwiththemiftheywillbewashedaspartoftheirroutinecare.Thispreshrinksthefabricandremovesresins,whichcancauseskippedstitchesandmakestitchingdifficultonsyntheticfabrics.Followthecareinstructionsprovidedbythefabricmanufacturer.Typicalcareinstructionsaretomachinewashinagentlecycleandtumbledryatalowtemperaturesetting.Beforewashing,stitchalongcutedgesofthefabrictopreventexcessivefraying.
Puresilkandsilk/syntheticblendfabricsrequirespecialconsideration.Silkfabricscanbedrycleaned,buthandwashingmaybepreferred.Warmwaterreleasesanaturalsubstancefromwithinthesilkfibers,whichrenewsthefabricandgivesitarefreshedlook.Prewashingalsofreesyoufromworryaboutwaterspotting.Thedyesinsomesilkfabricsmayrun.Handwashingisnotrecommendedforstrongcolorsandprints.Useasampleofyourfabricasatesttoseehowitreactstohandwashing;thenpreparetheentirelengthoffabricaccordingly.
Alsopreshrinkotherfabrics,suchasinterfacingsandlinings.Evenatinyamountofshrinkageontheseinnerfabricswillshowupaspuckersorbubblesonthin,lightweightouterfabrics.
Ifyoudry-cleanyoursilkgarment,preparethefabricforsewingbysteampressingonthewrongside.Useapressclothtoprotectthefabric.Settheironatthelowestendofthesteamsetting.
Pressing
Thebestapproachtopressingsheerandsilkyfabricsistoworkwithfabricscrapsfirst.Determinetheoptimumtemperaturesettingonyouriron,beginningwithalowsettingandraisingitasneeded.Fabricsmadefromrayonorpolyesterfibersscorcheasilyandrequireacoolirontemperature.Useapressclothtoprotectfragilefabricsandfibers,oruseasoleplatecoveronyouriron.Avoidametal-coatedironingboardcoverbecauseitreflectstoomuchheatintothefabric.
Mostpuresilkfabricscanbepressedatalowsteamsetting,buttesttoseeifsteamingleavesspots.Thisisahazardespeciallyonpuresilkfabricsthathavenotbeenprewashedbeforepatternlayoutandonlustrousfabricssuchascharmeuse.
Avoidoverpressing.Thin,lightweightfabricsarequicklypenetratedbyheatandneedlesspressingeffortthanheavierfabrics.Alighttouchisallthatisnecessary.Useahandsteameronfinishedgarments.
LayoutandCutting
Fine,lightweightfabricsareeasiertohandleduringpatternlayoutifyoucoverthecuttingsurfacewithasheet,othermatte-surfacedfabric,orflannel-backedvinyltableclothwiththeflannelsideup.Cardboardcuttingboardsandpaddedworksurfacesalsohelptomakeslipperyfabricsmorecontrollable.
Topinpatternsinposition,usesuperfinepins(0.5mmdiameter).Theypenetratethefabricweavewithoutmarringit.Preparenewpinsbywipingoffthemanufacturer’soilcoatingtopreventleavingspots,orusethepinsfirstondarkfabric.Inspiteoftheirname,silkpinsaretoocoarseforthesefabricsandshouldbereservedforusewithheavierfabricssuchasrawsilk.
Thefastestwaytocutoutfinefabricsiswitharotarycutter.Thebladecutsfabricedgesneatlyanddoesnotshiftthefabricasyouwork.Anothergoodcuttingtoolarebenthandleddressmaker’sshears.Theshapeofthehandleallowsyoutorestonecuttingbladeontheworksurfaceforaccuratestrokesthatbarelydisturbthefabriclayers.Serratededgeshearscanalsobehelpful.Thespecialbladesfirmlygripthinandslipperyfabrics,abenefitnotonlyforinitialcuttingbutalsofortrimmingrawedges.Whichevertoolyouuse,besureitissharp;bladesofshearsshouldbeingoodalignment.Also,syntheticfabricscauseafuzzbuildup,whichdullsthecuttingblades;wipethisoffwithasoftcloth.
Usea“withnap”layoutforallfabricsthathavelusterorshine.This
one-waypatternlayoutguaranteesuniformcolorshadinginthefinishedgarment.Somefabricslooklighterorbrighterinonedirectionthantheother;studythefabricbeforepatternlayoutanddecidewhichshadingyouprefer.
HowtoHandWashSilks
Swishfabricgentlyinlukewarmwater.Usemilddetergent,mildsoap,ornaturalshampoosuchascastile.Rinseincoolwater.
Rollfabricintoweltoremoveexcessmoisture.Donotwringortwist;thiscauseswrinkles,whicharedifficulttoremove.
Pressonwrongsideoffabricwhileitiswet.Usedryironatcooltemperature,suchassyntheticsetting,keepinggrainlinestrue.
LayoutTechniquesforSlipperyFabrics
Foldfabricrightsideout,soless-slickwrongsidesfaceeachother.Pickupfabricalongfoldededge,andletfabricfallnaturallytoensureaccuracyofcrosswisegrain.
Pushpinsstraightdownthroughpatternseamallowance,fabric,andpaddedorcork-coveredworksurfacetosecureslipperylayers.Ifusingcardboardcuttingboard,avoidusingsuperfinepinsbecausecardboarddullsthemquickly.
Sandwichextremelyslipperyorthinfabricsbetweentwolayersoftissuepaperforbettercontrol.Placetissuepaperoncuttingboard;placefabricandpatternontissue;pinthroughalllayers.Pinonlyinseamallowances.
LUSTROUSFABRICS
Thelustroussurfaceofspecialoccasionfabricscancomefromtheweaveofthefabric,asistrueforsatin,orfromfiberswithsheen,suchassilkandacetate.Specialfinishesalsocreatesurfaceluster,ormetallicyarnsorsequinscanbeaddedtogiveanordinaryfabricglamoroussparkle.
Satinisaweavethatproducesashinysurfacetexturefromfloatingyarns.Thecombinationoffiberssuchassilk,rayon,orpolyesterwiththedistinctiveweavemakesthefabriclikelytowater-spot;protectthefabricwithapresscloth,anduseadryironwhenpressing.Usesuperfinepinstoavoidsnaggingsurfaceyarns.
Crepe-backedsatinisalsocalledsatin-backedcrepebecausethefabricisreversible;onefacehasthematte,pebblytextureofcrepe,andtheotherfacehasthesmooth,shinytextureofsatin.Onesidemaybeusedasabindingortrimfortheother.
Satinpeauisasatinwithafirmtwillweaveontherightside.Somepeausaredoublefaced,withfinecrosswiseribsonbothsides.Becausepinsandrippedoutstitchescanleavemarks,pinonlyinseamallowance;test-fittoavoidrippingstitches.
Taffetahasacrisphandanddrapesstiffly.Testsewingtechniquesonscraps,becausepinsandrippedoutstitchescanleavemarks.Whenthefibercontentincludesacetate,steamcanleavespots.
Moirétaffetaispassedbetweenheatedrollerstogiveitawatermarkedsurfacetexture.
Brocadecomesinallweights,fromlighttoheavy,andhasraisedtapestry-stylemotifs.Themotifsshouldbebalancedonmajorgarmentsectionsandmatchedatprominentseams.Mostbrocadesarewoven,butsomeareknit.Carefulpressingonapaddedsurfacepreservesthesurfacetexture.Whenbrocadeshaveshinymetallicthreads,settheironatalowtemperatureforpressing.Tomakemetallicbrocadesmorecomfortable,
underlinewithbatiste.
Metallicfabricshavemetallicyarnswovenorknitintothem.Mostmetallicsaresensitivetoheatanddiscolorwhensteamisused.Fingerpressseamswithathimbleorbluntendofapointturner,oruseacool,dryiron.
Laméisasmooth,shinymetallicfabric,eitherknitorwoven.Knitmetallicsdrapeandeasebetterthanthewovens.Besidestraditionalgold,silver,andcoppertones,lameisavailableiniridescentcolors.
Sequinedfabricshaveaknitorsheerwovenbase.Asimplepatternstyleisespeciallyimportantforthesefabrics.Orusesequinedfabricforonlyapartofthegarment,suchasthebodice.
TechniquesforLustrousFabrics
Manyfabricsfitintothelustrouscategory,andsomehaveuniquesewingrequirements.However,allofthesefabricsarealikeintwoways:A“withnap”patternlayoutisusedforuniformcolorshadinginthefinishedgarment,andthelesshandling,thebetter.Keephandlingtoaminimumbychoosingpatternsinsimplestyleswithfewseamsanddarts.Avoidbuttonedclosingsanddetailssuchasshapedcollarsandweltpockets.Useasimplepinkedfinishonplainseams,ortreatrawedgeswithliquidfraypreventerinsteadofusingelaboratedressmakertechniques.Takespecialcarewhenpressing,usingalighttouchandcoveringthepressingsurfacewithascrapofself-fabricsonapfacesnap.Topreventridgeswhenpressingseams,pressoveraseamrollorplacestripsofheavybrownpaperbetweenseamallowanceandgarment.
GuidetoSewingLustrousFabrics
TipsforHandlingLustrousFabrics
Layout.Pinonlyinseamallowancestopreventpinmarks.Useextra-finesilkpinsforfinelywovenfabricssuchassatinandtaffeta.Shearsmustbesharporstrokeswillchewrawedgesoffabric.Cutdirectionallyforsmoothestedges.Alwaysuse“withnap”layoutforfabricswithluster.
Seams.Useplainseamswithasimpleedgefinish.Rawedgescanbepinked,overlocked,orfinishedwiththree-stepzigzag.Iffabricfrayseasily,applythincoatofliquidfraypreventertorawedges.Slipenvelopesbetweenseamallowancesandgarmenttoprotectgarmentfromstraydrops.
LACEANDEMBROIDEREDFABRICS
Laceslookfragileanddelicatebutareactuallyeasytosew.Truelaceshaveanetormeshbackground,whichhasnograinlineanddoesnotravel.Youcancutintothefabricfreelyforcreativepatternlayouts,seamsneednotime-consumingedgefinishes,andhemmingrequireslittlemorethantrimmingclosetotheedgesofprominentmotifs.
Theopenworkdesignsoflacefabricshaverichhistories.SomelacesstillbearthenamesoftheEuropeanlocalitieswheretheywereoncemadebyhandfromsilk,cotton,orlinenfibers.Today,manylacesaremadebymachinefromeasy-carecottonblends,polyester,acrylic,ornylon.
Alençonlacehasfilledinmotifsoutlinedbysoftsatincordonasheernetbackground.Oneorbothlengthwiseedgesusuallyhaveafinishedborder.
Chantillylacehasdelicatefloralmotifsworkedonafinenetbackgroundandoutlinedwithsilkythreads.Apopularbridalfabric,Chantillylaceusuallyhasanalloverpattern.
Eyeletisafinelywovencottonorpolyester/cottonfabricembroideredwithasatin-stitchedopenworkdesign.Eventhougheyeletembroideriesarenottruelaces,theyrequirepatternlayoutandpressingtechniquessimilartothoseforlaces.
Peaud’angeisaformofChantillylacemadewithaflossyyarntogiveitasofttexture.
Venicelaceismadefromheavyyarnsanduniquestitchesthatgiveitathreedimensionaltexture.Picotbridgesjointhemotifs.Venicelacedoesnothavethenetbackgroundthatistypicalofmostlaces.
Pointd’esprithasanopennetorfinetullebackgroundwithapatternofembroidereddots.
Clunylaceismadefromheavycotton-likeyarnsandlookshand-crocheted.Itusuallyhaspaddleorwheelmotifsandmayhaveraisedknotsaspartofthedesign.
Schiffliisanembroideredsheerorsemi-sheerfabricdecorated
onaSchifflimachine,whichimitateshandembroiderystitches.
GuidetoSewingLaces
TechniquesforSewingLaceandEmbroideredFabrics
Selectapatternthatsuitsthetextureandweightofthelacefabric.Patternsforbridalandeveninggownsthatareillustratedinlacefabricsmayrequirespecificformsoflace,suchasedgingsofspecificwidthsorawidealloverlace.Checkthebackofthepatternenvelopeforthepatternrequirements.
Whenconsideringapatternthatisnotillustratedinlaces,selectapatternwithsectionssizedtofitthefabricwidth.Ifplanningtouseaborderedlaceonsleeves,youmayhavetouseashort-sleevedpatternifthelaceisnotwideenoughforlongsleeves,orplacethelaceattheloweredgeofanorganzasleeve.Becauselacehasnograinline,itispossibletoturnthepatternpiecestouseanedgeorborderasafinishededge.
FabricPreparation
Lacerarelyrequiresanypreparationforsewing.Mostlacesmustbedrycleaned.Althoughshrinkageisrare,ifthecarelabelonalacefabricindicatesitiswashable,andyouarecombiningitwithotherfabricsandtrimstomakeawashablegarment,thenyoushouldpreshrinkthelace.Addittotheothercomponentsofthegarmentasyoupreshrinkthem.
Facings,Interfacings,andUnderlinings
Facingsandinterfacingsarenotusedonlacegarments.Finishouteredgeswithlacetrim,laceborders,orsheertricotbiasorFrenchbinding.Cutcollarsandcuffsassinglelayers,andfinishtheouteredgeswithlacetrimorappliqué.Useanarrowseamtojointhemtothegarment.
Ifyouneedtoaddbodyorsupporttolace,underlinethelacewithtullenetting.Thetullenettingaddsstrengthwithoutshowingthroughorchangingthecharacterofthelace.
LayoutandCutting
Patternlayoutisanimportantpreliminarystepforlacefabrics.Beginbystudyingthedetailsofthelacedesign.Unfoldthefabricfullyontheworksurface,layingcontrastingfabricunderneathifnecessarytomakethedesigneasiertoread.
Notetheplacementofprominentmotifs,thespacingoftherepeats,andthedepthofanyborders.Themostnoticeablemotifsshouldbematchedattheseamsandcenteredorotherwisebalancedonmajorgarmentsections,justlikelargefabricprints.Ifthedesignhasone-waymotifs,usea“withnap”patternlayout.
Planhowtousethemotifscreatively.Somelaceshavelargeprimarymotifsandsmallersecondarymotifsorbordersthatcanbecutoutandusedasappliqués.Tousebordersashems,determinethefinishedskirtandsleevelengthsbeforepatternlayout.Ifyouplantotrimtheborderfromthefabricandsewittothegarmentasadecorativeedging,youdonotneedtodeterminelengthsinadvancesoprecisely.
Beforecutting,decidewhichseamtreatmentyouwillbeusing.Alloverlacescanbesewnlikesheerfabrics,withnarrowseams.However,ifyouareworkingwithare-embroideredlaceoraspecialheirloomlacewithalargemotif,lappedseamsmaybebetter.Theywillnotinterrupttheflowofthelacedesignaroundthegarmentbecausetheseamisnearlyinvisible.Withthismethod,patternsectionsmustbepinnedinplaceandcutoutonebyoneinsequence.Youmayuseacombinationofseamsinonegarment,withlappedseamsatshoulderandsideseamsandnarrow
zigzagordoublestitchedseamsforset-insleeves.
Oncelaceiscut,thereislittlemarginforfittingchanges.Fitthepatternbeforelayouttoavoidrippingoutstitcheslater.
Pressing
Avoidoverhandlinglacewithpressing.Ifalighttouch-upisneeded,presswithrightsidedownonawellpaddedsurfacetoavoidflatteningthelacetexture.Useapressclothtopreventthetipoftheironfromcatchingortearingthenetbackground.Ifyouareworkingwithlacemadefromsyntheticfibers,suchaspolyesterornylon,usealowtemperaturesettingontheiron.Fingerpressseams,darts,andotherconstructiondetails.Wearathimbleandpressfirmly.Iffurtherpressingisnecessary,steamlightly,thenfingerpress.
LaceAppliqués
Laceappliqués,eitherpurchasedassinglemedallionsorcutfromlacefabric,makeeleganttrimsonspecial-occasiongarments.Thesetrimsareoftenusedasaccentsonbridalandeveninggownbodiceswhentheskirtiscutfromlacefabric.Theycanalsobeusedasdetailsonsilkylingerieandblouses.
Tostitchappliquésinplace,useeitherthehandormachinemethod.Anotherquicktechniqueissecuringappliquéswithfusibleweb.Thismethodissuitableforlacesandbackgroundfabricsthatarenotsensitivetoheatandsteam.
AttachingLaceAppliqués
Uselacefabric.Cliparoundlacemotif.Leaveoneortworowsofnetaroundedgestogivemotifdefinitionandtokeepre-embroideredlacecordingsfromraveling.Youcanalsopurchaselaceappliqué.
Hand-stitch.Useshortrunningstitches¼"(6mm)fromappliquéedges.Keepstitchesloosesobackgroundfabricstayssmoothandappliquéisnotflattened.(Contrastingthreadisusedtoshowdetail.)
Machine-stitch.Useanarrowzigzagorshortstraightstitch¼"(6mm)insideedges.Underthemotif,trimfabricclosetozigzagstitchingforsheereffect.(Contrastingthreadisusedtoshowdetail.)
Fuse.Positiongarment,rightsideup,oncoveredpressingsurface.Placeappliquéongarment.Slipcirclesoffusiblewebunderappliqué.Coverwithpapertowelsorabsorbentpresscloth.Fuse,followingmanufacturer’sdirections.
SYNTHETICFUR,SUEDE,ANDLEATHER
Syntheticfurhasadeeppiletextureontherightside,whichcan
imitatethecoloringandtextureofnaturalpelts,suchasmink ,seal
,fox ,orsheepskin .Orasyntheticfurfabriccanhaveanovelty
texture thatlooksman-made.Syntheticfursareusuallymadefrommodacrylicorpolyesterfibersandcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Mosthaveaknittedbacking.
Syntheticsuedeisanonwoven,softlynappedpolyester/polyurethanefabricthatcloselyresemblesgenuinesuededleather.Unlikerealleather,itisaneasy-carefabricthatcanbewashedanddriedbymachine.Themaindifferencebetweensyntheticsuedesisweight.Lightweight
syntheticsuedes drapesoftlyanddonotrequirespecialpatterns.
Medium-weighttypes aremorelikerealsuede.
Withconventionalsewingmethods,youmayneedtotakeextrafinishingsteps,suchasfusingtheseamallowancesandtopstitchingtheedgesbecausesuedesaredifficulttopressflatwithconventionalpressingtechniques.Oryoucanuseflatconstructiontechniques,suchaslappedseamsandfacedhems.Besidessolidcolors,thesyntheticsuedescanbe
embossed orprinted toaddtexturalinterest.
Syntheticleather/vinylfabricscanbesmooth ortextured .Likesuedes,vinylshavedifferentweights.Lightweight,supplevinylshaveaknittedorwovenbacking.Whenhandlingvinyls,usemanyofthesamemethodsusedforsyntheticsuedes,exceptvinylsaredamagedbyheatandsteamsotheycannotbepressed.
GuidetoSewingSyntheticFur,Suede,andLeather
INTERFACING
Interfacingplaysasupportingroleinalmosteverygarment.Itistheinnerlayeroffabricusedtoshapeandsupportdetailssuchascollars,cuffs,waistbands,pockets,lapels,andbuttonholes.Evensimplestylesoftenneedinterfacingtoaddstabilitytonecklines,facings,orhems.
Interfacingscomeinmanydifferentfibersandweights.Thepatternmayrequiremorethanonekind.Chooseinterfacingaccordingtotheweightofthefashionfabric,thekindofshapingrequiredandthewaythegarmentwillbecleaned.Generally,interfacingshouldbethesameweightorlighterthanthefashionfabric.Drapetwolayersofthefabricandtheinterfacingtogethertoseeiftheyhangwell.Areassuchascollarsandcuffsusuallyneedstifferinterfacing.Forsheerfabrics,anotherpieceofthefashionfabricmaybethebestinterfacing.
Interfacingsareavailableinwovenornonwovenfabrics.Woveninterfacinghasalengthwiseandcrosswisegrain.Itmustbecutwiththesamegrainasthepartofthegarmenttobeinterfaced.Nonwoveninterfacinghasnograin.Stablenonwovenscanbecutinanydirectionandwillnotravel.Stretchnonwovenshavecrosswisestretch,mosteffectiveforknits.
Bothwovenandnonwoveninterfacingsareavailableinsew-inandfusibleversions.Sew-ininterfacingmustbeheldinplacebymachinestitching.Fusibleshaveacoatingononesidewhich,whensteam-pressed,meltsandfusestheinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefabric.Fusiblescomeinplasticwrapperswhichhavedirectionsforapplying.
Followthemprecisely,sinceeachfusibleisdifferent.
Choosingbetweenfusibleandsewininterfacingisusuallyamatterofpersonalpreference.Sew-insrequiremorehandwork.Fusiblesarequickandeasy,andgivemorerigiditytothegarment.However,somedelicatefabricscannottaketheheatthatfusingrequires.Texturedfabricssuchasseersuckercannotbefusedbecausethetexturewouldbelost.
Interfacingsaremadeinweightsfromsheertoheavyandusuallycomeinwhite,gray,beige,orblack.Therearespecialtimesavinginterfacingsforwaistbands,cuffs,andplackets.Thesehavepre-markedstitchinglinestokeepedgeseven.
Anotherinterfacingaidisfusibleweb,availableinstripsofvariouswidths.Itbondstwolayersoffabrictogether,makingitpossibletobondasew-ininterfacingtothefashionfabric.
GuidetoInterfacings
Fusiblewoveninterfacingsareavailableindifferentweightsandcrispness.Cutthemonthesamegrainasthegarmentpiece,oronthebiasforsoftershaping.
Fusiblenonwoveninterfacingscomeinallweights,fromsheertoheavyweight.Stablenonwovenshavelittlegiveinanydirectionandcanbecutonanygrain.
Fusibleknitinterfacingsmadeofnylontricotarestableinthelengthwisedirectionandstretchonthecrosswisegraintobecompatiblewithlightweightknitandwovenfabrics.
Sew-inwoveninterfacingspreservetheshapeandqualitiesofthefabric,andshouldbeusedwithwovenfabrics.Weightsrangefromsheerorganzaandbatistetoheavyweighthaircanvas.
Sew-innonwovensprovideachoiceofweight,color,stretch,stable,orall-biascombinations.Theyareappropriateforknitsandstretchfabricsaswellasforwovens.
Fusiblewebisabondingagentusedtojointwolayersoffabricwithoutstitching.Itcanbeusedtobondasew-ininterfacingtothefashionfabric.
Nonwovenfusiblewaistbandingisprecutinwidthsorstripstobeusedforextrafirm,crispedgessuchaswaistbands,cuffs,plackets,
andstraightfacings.Ithaspremarkedstitchingorfoldlines.
Nonwovensew-inwaistbandingisaheavyweight,veryfirmfinishedstripforstiff,stablewaistbandsorbelts.Itisavailableinseveralwidths.Itcanbesewntothebackorfacingofawristband,butistoostifftosewintoawaistbandseam.
HowtoApplyFusibleInterfacing
Positioninterfacingonwarmfabric,resinsidedown;smoothintoplace.Lightlymistinterfacingwithwater,orsteamshrink.Positionpressclothanddampenwithliberalmisting,evenwhenusingsteamiron.
Startatcenteroflargeorlongpiecesofinterfacing,andworktowardeachendtofuse.Donotslideironfromonepositiontothenext.Toensurecompletecoverage,overlapfusedareaswithiron.
Usetwo-handedpressure,andleanoniron;fuseforrecommendedtime,10to15secondsformostfusibleinterfacings.Otherwise,bondwillnotbepermanentandwilleventuallyseparatefromfabric.
Pressthefusedareafromrightsideoffabricforbetterbonding.Useapressclothorironsoleplateguardtoprotectfabricsurface.Coolanddryfusedfabricsbeforemovingthem;interfacingiseasilyreshapedordistortedwhilewarm.
Layout,Cutting,andMarking
Onceyouhavechosenthepatternandfabricandassembledtheproperequipment,you’rereadytostartcreatingyourgarment.Beforeyoucut,makesurethefabricisproperlypreparedandthepatterncorrectlylaidout.
Muchoffabricpreparationandlayouthastodowiththefabricgrain.Grainisthedirectioninwhichthefabricthreadsrun.
Wovenfabricsconsistoflengthwisethreadsintersectingcrosswisethreads.Whenthesethreadscrossoneanotheratperfectrightangles,thefabricison-grain.Iftheintersectionoflengthwiseandcrosswisethreadsdoesnotformrightangles,thefabricisoff-grain.Itisessentialthatyourfabricbeon-grainbeforecutting.Iffabriciscutoff-grain,thegarmentwillneverhangorfitcorrectly.
Thedirectionofthelengthwisethreadsiscalledthelengthwisegrain.Thisgrainlinerunsparalleltotheselvage,anarrow,tightlywovenborderwhichrunsalongbothlengthwisesidesofthefabric.Becauselengthwisethreadsarestrongerandmorestablethancrosswisethreads,mostgarmentsarecutsothelengthwisegrainrunsvertically.The
crosswisethreadsformthecrosswisegrain ,whichrunsatrightanglestotheselvage.Inmostfabrics,ithasaslightamountofgive.Fabricswithborderprintsareoftencutonthecrosswisegrainsotheborderwillrunhorizontallyacrossthegarment.
Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsiscalledabias.Fabriccutonthebiashasmorestretchthanfabriccuton
thegrainline.Atruebias isformedwhenthediagonallineisata45-degreeangletoanystraightedge.Stripscutonthetruebiasareoftenusedtofinishcurvededgessuchasnecklinesandarmholes.Plaidsandstripescanbecutonthebiasforaninterestingeffect.Garmentscutonthetruebiasusuallydrapesoftly.
Knitfabricsareformedbyinterlockingloopsofyarncalledribs .Theribsrunparalleltothelengthwisesidesofthefabric.Theirdirectioncanbecomparedtothelengthwisegrainofwovenfabrics.Therowsofloops
atrightanglestotheribsarecalledcourses andarecomparabletothewovencrosswisegrain.Knitshavenobiasandnoselvage.Someflatknitshaveperforatedlengthwiseedgesthatlooklikeaselvage,butdonotrepresenttruelengthwisegrain.Othersaremadeinatubularshape;thesecanbecutopenalongalengthwiseribifasinglethicknessisneededforlayout.Knitshavethemoststretchinthecrosswisedirection,andarecutwiththecrosswisegrainrunninghorizontallyaroundthebodyformaximumcomfort.
PREPARINGTHEFABRIC
Beforelayingoutthepattern,takethenecessarystepstopreparethefabricforcutting.Thelabelonthebolttellswhetherthefabriciswashableordry-cleanableandhowmuch,ifany,thefabricwillshrink.Ifthefabrichasnotbeenpreshrunkbythemanufacturer,orifthelabelsaysitwillshrinkmorethanonepercent,youmustpreshrinkthefabricbeforecutting.Itisoftenadvisabletopreshrinkknits,sincethisremovesthesizingthatsometimescausesskippedstitches.Zippersandtrimsmayalsoneedpreshrinking.Dry-cleanablefabricscanbepreshrunkbysteampressingorbyaprofessionaldrycleaner.Thisisespeciallyimportantifyouplantousefusibleinterfacing,whichrequiresmoresteamthannormalpressingandmaycauseshrinkage.Tomakesurethefabricisongrain,beginbystraighteningthecrosswiseendsofyourfabric.Thismaybedonebypullingacrosswisethread,orcuttingalongawovendesignorcrosswiseribofaknit.Next,foldthefabriclengthwise,matchingselvagesandcrosswiseends.Ifthefabricbubbles,itisoffgrain.Fabricthatisslightlyoffgraincanbestraightenedbysteampressing.Pinalongselvagesandbothends,matchingedges.Pressfromtheselvagestothefold.Fabricthatisverymuchoffgrainmustbestraightenedbypullingfabricintheoppositedirectionfromthewaytheendsslant.Permanent-finishfabricscannotbestraightened.
HowtoPreshrinkFabric
Preshrinkwashablefabricbylaunderinganddryingitinthesamemanneryouwilluseforthefinishedgarment.
Steampresstopreshrinkdry-cleanablefabrics.Steamevenly,movingironhorizontallyorvertically(notdiagonally)acrossthegrain.Aftersteaming,letfabricdryonsmooth,flatsurfaceforfourtosixhours,oruntilthoroughlydry.
HowtoStraightenCrosswiseEndsofFabric
Pullthreadstostraightenwovenfabric.Cliponeselvageandgentlypulloneortwocrosswisethreads.Pushfabricalongthreadswithyourotherhanduntilyoureachoppositeselvage.Cutfabricalongpulledthread.
Cutonalinetostraightenastripe,plaid,check,orotherwovendesign.Simplycutalongaprominentcrosswiseline.Donotusethismethodforprinteddesigns,becausetheymaybeprintedoffgrain.
Cutonacourse(acrosswiserib)tostraightenendsofaknit.Itmaybeeasiertofollowalongthecourseifyoufirstbaste-markitwithcontrastingthread,ormarkwithmarkingpencilorchalk.
LAYINGOUTTHEPATTERN
Getreadytolayoutthepatternbypreparingalargeworkareasuchasatabletoppedwithacuttingboard,orotherlargeflatsurface.Assembleallthepatternpiecesfortheviewyouaremakingandpressthemwithawarm,dryirontoremovewrinkles.
Locatethecorrectlayoutdiagramonthepatterndirectionsheet.Patternlayoutsarereliableguidesforlayingoutthepatternquicklyandefficiently.Findthelayoutfortheview,fabricwidthandpatternsizeyouareusing.Whenworkingwithanappedorotherdirectionalfabric(page77),choosea“withnap”layout.Circlethelayoutwithacoloredpentomakesureyourefertothecorrectlayouteachtime.
Foldthefabricasindicatedonthelayout.Mostfabricsarecutwiththerightsidefoldedin.Thismakesiteasiertomarkandfastertostitch,sincesomepieceswillbeinpositiontosew.Cottonsandlinensareusuallyfoldedrightsideoutonthebolt;wools,wrongsideout.Therightsideofthefabricmayappearshinierorflatter,orhaveamorepronouncedweave.Selvageslookmorefinishedontherightside.Ifyoucannottellwhichistherightside,simplypickthesideyoulikebestandconsistentlyusethatastherightside.Aslightdifferenceinshadingthatisnotapparentasyoucutmaybenoticeableinthefinishedgarmentiftwodifferentsidesareused.
Thelayoutdiagramindicatestheplacementoftheselvagesandfold.Mostgarmentsarecutwiththefabricfoldedalongthelengthwisegrain.Ifthefabricistobecutfoldedonthecrosswisegrain,thefoldislabeled
“crosswisefold”onthelayout.Thecrosswisefoldshouldnotbeusedonnappedorotherdirectionalfabrics.
Placethepatternpiecesonthefabricasindicatedinthelayout.Thesymbolsandmarkingsusedinlayoutdiagramsarestandardizedforallmajorpatterncompanies.Awhitepatternpieceindicatesthatthispieceistobecutwiththeprintingfacingup.Ashadedpieceshouldbecutwiththeprintingfacingdown.Adottedlineindicatesthatapatternpieceshouldbecutasecondtime.
Whenapatternpieceisshownhalfwhiteandhalfshaded,itshouldbecutfromfoldedfabric.Cuttheotherpiecesfirstandrefoldthefabrictocutthispiece.Apatternpieceshownextendingbeyondthefoldiscutfromasinglelayerratherthantheusualdoublelayeroffabric.Aftercuttingtheotherpieces,openthefabricrightsideupandpositionthispiecebyaligningthegrainlinearrowwiththestraightgrainofthefabric.
Afterallpatternpiecesareinplace,pinthemtothefabricaccordingtothedirectionsatright.Donotbegincuttinguntilallpatternpiecesareinplace.
HowtoPinPatternPiecesinPlace
Positionpatternpiecestobecutonthefoldfirst.Placeeachdirectlyonfoldededgeoffabric.Pincornersofpatterndiagonally.Continuepinningintheseamallowance,placingpinsparalleltothecuttingline.Spacepinsabout3"(7.5cm)apart,closertogetheroncurvesoronslipperyfabrics.
Placestraight-grainpatternpiecesonfabricwithgrainlinearrowparalleltotheselvageofwovenfabrics,paralleltoaribforknits.Measurefromeachendofthearrowtotheselvageorrib,shiftingthepatternuntilthedistancesareequal.Pinbothendsofthegrainlinesopatternwillnotshift.Continuepinningasdirectedinstep1.
LAYINGOUTPLAIDSANDSTRIPES
Selectsimplestylesforplaidsandstripes.Complicatedfashionscandetractfromordistortthefabricdesign.Avoiddiagonalbustlinedarts,longhorizontaldarts,andpatternsdesignated“notsuitableforplaidsandstripes.”
Alwaysbuyextrayardagetoallowformatchingthedesignattheseams.Theextraamountneededdependsonthesizeoftherepeat(thefour-sidedareainwhichthepatternandcolorofthedesignarecomplete)andthenumberandlengthsofmajorpatternpieces.Usuallyanextra¼to½yd.(0.25to0.5m)issufficient.
Itiseasiertoworkwithevenplaidsandbalancedstripesthanunevenplaidsandunbalancedstripes.Evenplaidshavethesamearrangementofcolorsandstripesinbothlengthwiseandcrosswisedirections.Theareaofrepeatisperfectlysquare.Inunevenplaids,thecolorandstripesformadifferentarrangementinthelengthwiseorcrosswisedirection,orboth.Balancedstripesrepeatinthesameorderinbothdirections;unbalancedstripesdonot.Toavoidhavingtomatchtwolayersofyardageitisrecommendedthateachpatternpiecebelayedoutinasinglelayer.
Beforecuttingandlayout,decidetheplacementofplaiddesignlineswithinthegarmentandwheretheywillfallonthebody.Avoidplacingadominanthorizontallineorblockoflinesatthebustlineandwaistlineifpossible.Experimentwiththefabricdrapedfromshouldertohem.Someplaidgarmentslookmorebalancedwhenthehemlinefallsatthebottomofadominantcrosswiseline.Ifyouwishtodrawtheeyeawayfromthe
hemline,placethehemlinebetweentwodominantlines.Whenlayingoutplaidsandstripes,matchstitchinglines,notcuttinglines.
Tomatchattheseams,layouteachpieceinasinglelayerbeginningwithgarmentfront.Placedominantverticallinesatthecenterfrontandcenterback,orpositionthepatternsothecenterfrontishalfwaybetweentwodominantverticallines.Positionthesleeveinthesameway,usingtheshoulderdotastheguideforcenteringthesleeveonorbetweenthedominantverticallines.
Althoughitisnotalwayspossibletomatchthedesignateveryseam,trytomatch:crosswisebarsatverticalseamssuchascenterfrontandback,andsideseams;set-insleevestothebodicefrontatarmholenotches;lengthwisestripeswherepossible;andpockets,flaps,andotherdetailstotheareaofthegarmenttheywillcover.Theplaidmaynotmatchattheshoulderseamsorthebacknotchinthearmholeofaset-insleeve.
Identifyingevenandunevenplaids.Anevenplaidhaslengthwiseandcrosswisecolorbarsthatmatchwhentherepeatisfoldeddiagonally
throughthecenter .Anunevenplaidmayhavedifferingcolorbarsin
oneormoredirections .Oranunevenplaidmayhavematchingcolorbarsbutnotformamirrorimagewhenfoldeddiagonallybecausethe
repeatisnotsquare .Thistypeofunevenplaidisthemostdifficulttoidentify.
TipsforLayingOutPlaidFabrics
Layouteachpieceinasinglelayer,beginningwithfrontpatternpiece.Usedominantpartofdesignforcenterfrontandcenterback.Matchnotchesatsideseamsoffrontandback.
Centersleeveatsamedominantpartofdesignascenterfront.Thedesignshouldmatchatthenotches(arrows)ofthesleevefrontandarmholeofgarmentfront;notchesatbackmaynotmatch.
Positionpockets,cuffs,yokes,andseparatefrontbandsonthetruebiastoavoidtime-consumingmatching.Centeradominantdesignblockineachpatternpiece.
HowtoLayOutUnevenPlaids
Layoutpatternonsinglelayeroffabric,flippingpatternpiecesovertocutrightandlefthalves.Placemostdominantcolorbaratcenterfrontandcenterbackorpositionthepatternsothecenterfrontishalfwaybetweentwodominantverticallines.Placepatternpiecesinonedirectiononly,using“withnap”layout.Plaidwillrepeataroundthegarmentinsteadofformingamirrorimageoneachsideofthecenterfrontandcenterbackseams.
LAYINGOUTDIRECTIONALFABRICS
Directionalfabricsincludenappedfabricssuchascorduroy,velveteen,andflannel;plushfabricssuchasfakefur;shinyfabricssuchastaffetaandsatin;andprintfabricswhichhaveone-waydesigns.Otherfabricswhichcanbedirectionalincludesometwillweavefabricssuchasdenimandgabardine,andknitssuchasjersey,single,ordoubleknitswhichappearlighterordarkerdependingonthedirectionofthegrain.
Topreventthegarmentfromhavingatwo-tonedlookorhavingitsdesignrunningintwodifferentdirections,allpatternpiecesmustbelaidoutwiththeirtopsfacingthesamedirection.Nappedfabricscanbecutwiththenaprunningeitherupordown.Naprunningupgivesadarker,richerlook.Naprunningdownlookslighterandusuallywearsbetter.Plushfabricslookbestwiththenaprunningdown.Shinyfabricscanbe
cutinwhicheverdirectionyouprefer.One-waydesignsshouldbecutsothatthedesignwillberightsideupwhenthegarmentiscompleted.
HowtoLayOutDirectionalFabrics
Choosethedirectionyourfabricwillrun,thenlayoutthepatternpiecesaccordingtothe“withnap”layoutonthepatterndirectionsheet.Toensureproperplacement,markeachpatternpiecewithanarrowpointingtothetopofthepiece.Sometimesthepatterncallsforacrosswisefold.Inthiscase,foldthefabricasthelayoutindicates,thencutalongthefoldline.Turnthetoplayeroffabricaroundsothenaprunsinthesamedirectionasthenapofthelowerlayeroffabric,andcutbothlayersatthesametime.
CUTTINGTIPS
Arrangeyourcuttingtablesoyoucanmovearoundittogetatthepatternfromallangles.Ifyourcuttingsurfaceisnotthisaccessible,cutgroupsofpatternpiecesapartfromtherestofthefabricsoyoucanturnthesesmallerpiecesaround.
Accuracyisimportant,sinceamistakeincuttingcannotalwaysbecorrected.Beforecutting,doublecheckplacementofpatternpiecesandalterations.Beforecuttingplaids,one-waydesignsordirectionalfabrics,makesurethefabricisfoldedandlaidoutcorrectly.Bastingtape(page30)maybehelpfultokeepfabricfromshifting.Heavyorbulkyfabriccanbecutmoreaccuratelyonelayeratatime.Slipperyfabriciseasiertocutifyoucoverthetablewithasheet,blanketorothernonslipmaterial.
Choosesharp,plainorserratedblade,bent-handledshears,7"or8"(18or20.5cm)inlength.Takelong,firmstrokes,cuttingdirectlyonthedarkcuttingline.Useshorterstrokesforcurvedareas.Keeponehandonthepatternnearthecuttinglinetopreventthepatternfromshiftingandtoprovidebettercontrol.
Therotarycutter(page28)isespeciallyusefulforcuttingleather,slipperyfabricsorseverallayersoffabric.Therotarycuttercanbeusedbyeitherrightorleft-handedsewers.Useacuttingmattoprotectthecuttingsurface.
Notchescanbecutoutwardfromthenotchmarkings,orwithshortsnipsintotheseamallowance(page83).Becarefulnottosnipbeyondthe
seamline.Usesnipstomarkthefoldlinesandstitchinglinesofdartsandpleats,andthecenterfrontandcenterbacklinesatthetopandbottom.Markthetopofthesleevecapabovethelargedotonthepatternwithasnip.Onbulkyorlooselywovenfabricwheresnipscannotbeeasilyseen,cutpatternnotchesoutintothemargin.Cutdoubleortriplenotchesasoneunit,notseparately.
Afteryoufinishcutting,savescrapstoteststitchingorpressingtechniques,maketrialbuttonholes,orcoverbuttons.Foraccuratemarkingandeasyidentification,leaveeachpatternpiecepinnedinplaceuntilyouarereadytosewthatpiece.
Yourpatternmaycallforbiasstripsoffabrictoencloserawedgessuchasnecklinesorarmholes.Ideally,thesearecutfromapieceoffabriclongenoughtofittheareatobeenclosed.Biasstripsmayalsobepiecedtogethertoformastripofthecorrectlength.
HowtoCutandJoinBiasStrips
Foldfabricdiagonallysothatastraightedgeonthecrosswisegrainisparalleltotheselvageorlengthwisegrain.Thefoldlineisthetruebias.Cutfabricalongthefoldlinetomarkthefirstbiasline.
Marksuccessivebiaslineswithamarkingpencilorchalk,andyardstickorsee-throughruler.Cutalongmarkedlines.Whenaboundfinishiscalledforinapattern,thepatternwillspecifythelengthandwidthofbiasstripsneeded.
Joinbiasstripsifpiecingisnecessary.Withrightsidestogether,pinstripstogetherwithshorteredgesaligned.Stripswillforma“V.”Stitcha¼"(6mm)seam.Pressseamopen.Trimpointsofseamsevenwithedgeofbiasstrip.
MARKINGTIPS
Inmarking,keypatternsymbolsaretransferredtothefabricaftercuttingandbeforethepatternisremoved.Thesemarkingsbecomereferencepointstohelpyouthroughallstagesofgarmentconstruction.Patternsymbolsthatshouldbemarkedincludeconstructionsymbolsandpositionmarksforplacementofdetails.
Markingisusuallydoneonthewrongsideofthefabric.Somesymbols,suchaspocketplacementandbuttonholes,shouldbetransferredfromthewrongsidetotherightsideofthefabric(notmarkedontherightside).
Thereareseveralwaystotransfermarkings,eachsuitablefordifferentfabrics.Choosewhichevergivesyouthefastest,mostaccuratemarking.
Pinsareaquickwaytotransfermarkings.Theyshouldnotbeusedonfinefabricsorthoseonwhichpinmarkswouldbepermanent,suchassilkorsyntheticleathers.Usepinmarkingonlywhenyouplantosewimmediately,sincepinsmayfalloutoflooseweavesorknits.
Tailor’schalkordressmaker’spencil,usedwithpins,aresuitableformostfabrics.
Tracingwheelandtracingpaperworkbestonplain,flat-surfacedfabrics.Thewheelmaydamagesomefabrics,sotestonascrapfirst.Beforemarking,placeapieceofcardboardunderthefabrictoprotectthetable.Onmostfabrics,bothlayerscanbemarkedatonce.
Liquidmarkersarefelt-tippensdesignedespeciallyforfabric.The
markertransfersthroughthepatterntissueontothefabric.Theinkrinsesoutwithwaterordisappearsonitsown,soliquidmarkerscanbeusedontherightsideofmostfabrics.
Machinebastingtransfersmarkingsfromthewrongsideofthefabrictotherightside.Itcanalsobeusedtomarkintricatematchingpointsorpivotpoints.Aftermarkingonthewrongside,machine-stitchthroughthemarking.Usealongstitchlengthorspeed-bastingstitch,withcontrastingcolorthreadinthebobbin.Thebobbinthreadmarkstherightside.Tomarkapivotpoint,stitchontheseamlinewithregular-lengthstitchingandmatchingthread.Leavethestitchinginplaceasareinforcement.
Snipsorclipscanbeusedonmostfabricsexceptlooselywoventweedsandbulkywools.Withthepointofscissors,snipabout1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)intotheseamallowance.
Pressingcanbeusedtomarkfoldlines,tucks,orpleats.Itisasuitablemethodforanyfabricthatholdsacrease.
HowtoMarkwithChalk,Pencil,orLiquidMarker
Insertpinsstraightdownthroughpatternandbothlayersoffabricatmarkingsymbols.
Removepatterncarefullybypullingoverpinheads.Marktoplayerwithchalk,pencil,ormarkeratpinpointsonwrongside.
Turnfabricoverandmarkotherlayeratpinpoints.Removepinsandseparatelayers.
HowtoMarkwithBastingorPressing
Hand-bastewithlongandshortstitchestomarkonelayeroffabric.Stitchthroughpatternandfabricalongasolidline,usingshortstitchesonthetissuesideandlongstitchesthroughfabric.Carefullypullpatterntissueaway.
Machine-bastetotransferpencil,chalk,ortracingpapermarkingsfromthewrongsidetotherightside.Usecontrastingthreadinthebobbin,longeststitchonmachine.Donotusemachinebastingonfabricswhichmar.Donotpressovermachinebasting.
Presstomarkfoldlines,tucks,andpleats.Pinpatterntoasinglelayeroffabric.Foldpatternandfabricalongmarkingline.Pressalongthefoldwithadryiron.
HowtoMarkwithTracingWheelandTracingPaper
Placetracingpaperunderpattern,withcarbonsidesfacingthewrongsideofeachfabriclayer.
Rolltracingwheeloverlinestobemarked,includingcenterfoldlinesofdarts,usingarulertohelpdrawstraightlines.
Markdotsandotherlargesymbolswithshortlinesperpendiculartothestitchingline,oran“X.”Useshortlinestomarktheendsofdartsorpleats.
TimesavingMarkingTechniques
Snipscanbeusedtomarknotches,endsofdarts,foldlines,orcenterfrontandbacklocations.Maketinysnips,1/8"(3mm)deep,intoseamallowance.Snipthroughpatternandbothfabriclayerswithpointofscissors.
Pinscanmarkdarts,dots,orfoldlineswithoutthehelpofmarkingpencil.Insertpinsthroughpatternandfabric.Pullpatterncarefullyoverheads.Markbottomlayerwithsecondsetofpins.Securefirstsetofpinstomarktoplayer.
Tailortackerhastailor’schalkinsertedintwoholders.Onesidehasapinwhichisinsertedthroughpatternmarkingtomeetchalkontheotherside.Twistbothsidesoftackersochalkmarkstwofabriclayersinonetimesavingstep.
SEWINGTECHNIQUES
GeneralGuidelinesforPatternAdjustmentsPatternadjustmentschangethemeasurementandshapeofstandardpatternpiecestofityourfigure.Tostreamlinetheentirefittingprocess,makeasmanyfittingchangesasyoucanbeforeyoucut.Step-by-stepinstructionsforspecificadjustmentsaregivenonthefollowingpages.Thebasicguidelinesthatfollowapplytomostchangesyouarelikelytomake.
Presspatternpieceswithawarm,dryironbeforeyoustart.It’shardtobeaccuratewhenworkingwithwrinkledtissuepieces.
Pin-fitthepatterntopreviewhowwellthefashionstylefitsyourfigure.Adjustthepatternonyourbody,ordecidehowextensivelyyouneedpatternadjustments.Ifyouneedmanyadjustments,reconsideryourchoiceofpatternstyle.Anotherstylemayfityourfigurewithfeweradjustments.Also,pin-fitaftermakingpatternadjustmentsasafastcheckoftheiraccuracy.
Workinalogicalorder,completinglengtheningorshorteningpatternadjustmentsfirst.Thenworkfromthetopofthepatterndowntomakeadditionaladjustmentstofitbodywidthandcontours.
Watchforchainreactions.Adjustmentsononepatternpieceusuallyrequirematchingadjustmentsonadjoiningpatternsections.Ifyouchangethenecklineseam,forexample,youmustchangetheneckfacingtomatch.Sometimesacompensatingratherthanamatchingadjustmentisnecessary.Forexample,ifyoulowertheshoulderseamstofitslopingshoulders,youmustalsolowertheunderarmseamtoretainthearmhole
size.
Maintaintheoriginalgrainlineasprintedonthepatternpieces,sothefinishedgarmenthangsproperly.Extendthegrainlinefromoneedgeofthepatternpiecetotheotherbeforecutting.Thishelpspreservegrainlineasyoumakeadjustments.
Blendtheadjustedstitchingandcuttinglinesbackintotheoriginallines.Whenadjustmentsareblendedcorrectly,theoriginalshapeofthepatternpiecewillnotbedistorted.
Toblendaseam,drawacontinuouslinewhereonehasbecomebrokenduringpatternadjustment.Toblendastraightline,usearulerorstraightedge,connectingthebeginningandendofthenewline.Toblendacurvedline,useacurvedrulertoreconstructtheoriginalcurveofthepattern,blendingtoeachendfromapointhalfwaybetweenthebrokenseamline.
Blendtheseamlinefirst,thenthecuttingline.Onmultiple-sizedpatternswherenoseamlinesaremarked,blendthecuttinglineonly,andstitchthespecifiedseamallowance,usually5/8"(1.5cm).
Whenthereisadartintheseamline,foldthedartoutbeforeblendingtheline.Besuretomarkallnotchesanddartsonthenewblendedseamline.
CHOOSINGANADJUSTMENTMETHOD
Whereverpossible,twomethodsaregivenforthemostcommonpatternadjustments:theminor,orin-seam,methodandthemajor,orcut-and-slide,method.Chooseonemethodortheother,dependingonhowmuchofanadjustmentyouneedtomake.
Minorin-seampatternadjustmentsarequickandeasy,becauseyoucanmarkthemdirectlyontheprintedpatternwithintheseamallowanceoronthepatterntissuemargin.In-seammethodshavenarrowlimitations.Usuallyyoucanaddorsubtractnomorethan3/8"to½"(1to1.3cm).
Inthephotos,toclarifywhereanadditionwouldnormallybemarkedonthemarginofthetissuepattern,themarginhasbeentrimmedandacontrastingtissueplacedunderthepattern.Thisprocedureisnotnecessaryonpatternsthathavenotbeenusedpreviously,becausetheyhavegeneroustissuemarginsaroundthem.
Majorcut-and-slidepatternadjustmentsallowyoutoaddorsubtractgreateramountsthanin-seammethodsandtomakeadjustmentsexactlywheretheyareneededtofityourfigure.Cut-and-slidemethodsalsohavelimits,usuallytoamaximumof2"(5cm).Thespecificamountisstatedwiththestep-by-stepinstructions.Donotattempttoadjustbeyondthestatedmaximumsoryouwilldistorttheshapeofthepatternpiecesandcausethefinishedgarmenttohangoff-grain.Itwillalsobemoredifficulttomakematchingorcompensatingadjustmentsonadjoiningpatternsections.
Ifyouneedagreateradjustmentthancut-and-slidemethodsallow,
considerworkingwithanotherpatternsize.Ordistributetheadjustmentoveradditionalpatternseamsanddetailsinsteadofconcentratingtheadjustmentinonearea.
BASICLENGTHADJUSTMENTS
Beforemakinganyotherpatternadjustments,adjustthelengthofpatternpiecestofityourpersonallengthproportions.Ifyourfigureisclosetoaverage,basiclengthadjustmentsmaybetheonlychangesneeded.
Basiclengthadjustmentsaremadeintwoareas:aboveandbelowthewaist.Useyourbackwaistlengthmeasurementtodeterminethecorrectpatternlengthabovethewaist.Todeterminethecorrectpatternlengthbelowthewaist,measurefromthewaistinbacktotheproposedhemline.Maketheselengthadjustmentsusingtheadjustmentlinesprintedonthepatternpieces.
AdjustmentsforSpecialFigures
Ifyourbustpointdoesnotmatchtheplacementonthepatternitmaybenecessarytoadjustthelengthabovethebustortoadjustthedartssothattheypointtothefullestpartofthebust.Ifyouhaveafullbust,adjustthefrontpatternlengthabovethewaist,asonpage93.
Forpetitefiguretypes,reducethepatternlengthproportionately,bydividingthetotaladjustmentintosmalleramounts.Shortenthepatternatthechestandsleevecapandatthehipadjustmentline,inadditiontousingtheprintedadjustmentlinesabovethebustandwaist.Lengthmayalsobeadjustedatthehemline.
Standardpatternshorteningadjustmentsforpetiteareremove¼"(6mm)atchest,¾"(2cm)abovewaist,1"(2.5cm)athipadjustmentline,and1"(2.5cm)athemtoshortenpatternby3"(7.5cm).Standardadjustmentsforwomen’spetitearesimilar,butthechestadjustmentisomittedbecausearmholesizedoesnotneedtobereduced.Customizestandardlengthadjustmentstosuityourownproportions.
HowtoDetermineLengthAdjustments
Abovethewaist.Measurebackwaistlengthfromprominentboneatbackofnecktonaturalwaistline.Comparewithbackwaistlengthmeasurementforyourpatternsizegivenonpatternenvelopetodeterminehowmuchtoadjustbodicefrontandbackpatterns.
Belowthewaist.Measureatcenterbackfromwaisttoproposedgarmenthemline,oruseagarmentofcorrectlengthtodeterminethismeasurement.Comparewithfinishedgarmentlengthgivenonbackofpatternenvelopetodeterminehowmuchtoadjustskirtfrontandbackpatterns.
HowtoShortenPatterns
Cutpatternontheprintedadjustmentlines.Ifskirtpatternprovidesnoadjustmentlines,cutoffexcesslengthatbottomedge.
Lapcutsections.Overlapequalstotalamountpatternmustbeshortened.Tapesectionstogether,keepinggrainlinestraight.
Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentsonbackandfrontpatterns.
HowtoLengthenPatterns
Cutpatternontheprintedadjustmentlines.
Spreadcutsectionstheamountneeded.Placepaperunderneathtobridgegap.Tapesectionsinplace,keepinggrainlinestraight.
Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentsonbackandfrontpatternpieces.
HowtoShortenPatternsforPetites
Pin-fitormeasurepatterntodeterminehowmuchlengthtoremoveacrosschestabovearmholenotches,atadjustmentlineabovewaist,athipline,andatadjustmentlinebelowwaist.
Drawadjustmentlinesonfrontandback,midwaybetweenarmholeandshoulderseamnotches.Drawsimilarlineacrosssleevecap.Drawhipadjustmentline5"(12.5cm)belowwaistonskirtfrontandback.
Cutpatternpiecesoneachadjustmentline;laptoshorten.Shortenbackandfrontpatternsequally.Shortensleevecapbysameamountremovedfrombodiceatchest.
FITTINGTHEBUST
Whenfittedcorrectly,thebodiceofagarmentdrapessmoothlyoverthebustwithoutpulling,andthewaistlineofthegarmentliesatnaturalwaistlineandisparalleltothefloor.Adjustbodicebacklengthaccordingtobackwaistlengthmeasurement.Makesimilaradjustmentsonbodicefront.Inaddition,frontbodiceseamsordartsmayneedtobeadjustedtofityourbustsizeandshape.
Ifyourbustisfullerthanstandard,youmayneedtoaddadditionallengthandwidthtothebodicefrontpattern.Keepinmindthatbodicefrontandbacksideseamlengthsmustmatch.Ifyouhaveselectedapatternfeaturinglooseoroversizedfit,youcanusesomeofthedesigneaseinthepatterntofitafullbustandmakealesseradjustment.
Foranaverageorsmallbust,pin-fitting,seeopposite,willdeterminewhetheritisnecessarytoraiseorlowerdarts.Repositioningthedartsmaybeallthatisneededtoimprovepatternfit.
MinimumEase
Ifyoumakebustadjustmentsonthepatternbeyondsimplyraisingorloweringdarts,youmaywanttotestyouradjustmentsbymakingabodicefittingshellfromtheadjustedpattern.Manyfittingsolutionsareeasiertovisualizeinfabric,andthisextrastepcansavetimeinthelongrun.
Ease,orextraroom,isnecessaryforcomfortatthebustline.Addtheminimumamountofeasetoyourbustmeasurement,asshownonthechartabove,beforecomparingwiththepatterntojudgewhetherpatternadjustmentsareneeded.
Theeaseamountsgivenonthechartaregeneralguidelines.Attimesyoumaywanttofitwithmoreorlessease.Forexample,thickfabricsrequiremoreeasethanlightweightones.Knitsrequirelesseasethanwovens,andverystretchyknitsrequirenoeaseatallorevennegativeeaseforformfittinggarments.
HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments
Measurebust atfullestpart,keepingtapemeasureparalleltofloor.Addminimumeasetobustmeasurement.Measurethefrontwaistlength frommidpointofshoulder,overbustpoint,straightdowntowaist.Measurethesidelength from1"(2.5cm)belowunderarmtowaist.Usetwofingersunderarmtodeterminedistance.
Measurepatternfrontandbackatbustline .Measurebodicefrontpatternfrommidpointofshoulder,overbustpoint,towaist.Noteanydifferencestodecideifpatternlengthmustbe
adjustedabovewaistorbust(pages88and89).Measuresideseamofbodicefrontpatternfromunderarmtowaist .Noteanydifferencestodecideifpatternlengthmustbeadjusted.
Pin-fitpatterntomarkthebustpoint.Noteifbustshapingordartsonthepatternshouldberaisedorloweredforgoodfit.Comparepatternmeasurementwithbodymeasurementplusminimumeasetodeterminehowmuchwidthtoaddforfullbustorhowmuchtoremoveforsmallbust.
HighBust
Poorfit,whenthebustishigherthanaverage,showsinpullsacrossthefullestpartofthebustandinwrinklesunderthebust.Dartdoesnotpointtofullestpartofcurve.Underarmdartmustberaised;dartfromthewaistline(ifany)needstobelengthened.
LowBust
Poorfit,whenthebustislowerthanaverage,showsinpullsacrossthefullestpartofthebustandinwrinklesabovethebust.Dartsaretoohighandneedtobeloweredandshortened.
HowtoRaiseorLowerDarts
Drawhorizontallinesonthepattern½"(1.3cm)aboveandbelowtheunderarmdart,atrightangletograinline.Connectthelineswithaverticallinethroughdartpoint.Cutoutdartonmarkedlines.
Raisedarttheamountneededforahighbust.Positiondartsothatitpointstothebustpoint(dot)orfullestpartoffigure.Placepaperunderpattern.Tapecutedgesinplace,keepingedgeseven.Redrawsideseam.
Lowerdarttheamountneededforalowbust.Positiondartsothatitpointstothebustpoint(dot)orfullestpartoffigure.Placepaperunderpattern.Tapecutedgesinplace,keepingedgeseven.Redrawsideseam.
Diagonaldartrequireschangeindirectionsothatitpointstobustpoint.Marknewdartpointonpattern.Redrawdart,connectingsideseamendsofthedartandnewdartpoint.
HowtoFitaFullBustwithoutDarts
Accommodatefullbustonlesscloselyfittedpatternstylesbymakinganadjustmentthatdoesnotcreateadart.Thismethodcanbeusedtoincreasethepatternalimitedamount.Exceedingthemaximumadjustmentdistortsthefabricgrainattheloweredgeofthegarment.Thisadjustmentisnotappropriateonplaids,checks,orstripes.
Drawlineacrossbodicefrontmidwaybetweenarmholenotchandshoulderseam,atrightangletograinline.Drawsecondline2"to4"(5to10cm)belowarmhole,atrightangletograinline.Drawthirdlinethroughbustpoint,paralleltograinlinetoconnectfirsttwolines;extendlinetoloweredge.
Cutpatternonadjustmentlines.Slidearmholeportionoutamaximumof¾"(2cm)toaddtotalof1½"(3.8cm)tobodicewidth.Slidecenterfrontwaistsectiondownnomorethan2"(5cm)toaddbodicelength.Tapetopaper.
Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatarmholeandsideseams.Usecurvedrulertoblendlowercuttinglinefromthecenterfront,taperingbacktotheoriginalsideseam.
FITTINGTHEWAISTANDABDOMEN
Althoughawaistbandorwaistlineshouldfitsnugly,itmustbeslightlylargerthanyourwaistforgoodfit.Forwearingcomfort,afinishedwaistbandshouldbefrom½"to1"(1.3to2.5cm)largerthanyouractualmeasurement.Inaddition,allow½"(1.3cm)ofeasefrompatternwaistmeasurementtowaistband.Applythesamefittingguidelinestogarmentswithfacedwaistlines.Ifgarmenthasawaistlineseamandnoband,allowthetotalamount,1"to1½"(2.5cmto3.8cm),forbasicease.
Oneindicationofgoodwaistfitisthewaythesideseamshang.Theyshouldhangstraight,visuallybisectingthebody,withoutbeingpulledtothefrontortheback.Figureandposturevariationsmaycausedistortionofthesideseamsandrequireseparateadjustmentofskirtfrontandback.Forexample,abodywithafullabdomenwillneedadditionalwidthandlengthinfront,whileapersonwithswaybackedposturemayneedtoshortentheskirtpatternatcenterback.Adjustmentsforfullabdomenandswaybackshouldbedeterminedandmadeatthesametimethatthewaistwidthadjustmentismade.
HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments
Measureyourwaist.Comparewiththewaistmeasurementforyourpatternsize.Minimumwearingeaseisincludedinthepattern,soadjustthepatternaccordingly,enlargingorreducingasneeded.
Pinoutwaistlinedarts,tucks,orpleatstomeasurepatterntocomparewithbodymeasurementsplusease.Measureatthewaistlineseam;onagarmentwithoutawaistlineseam,measureatthewaistlinemarkatthenarrowestpartofthewaistlinearea.Doublethepatternmeasurementtocomparewithyourwaistmeasurement.
SmallWaist
Poorfithaswaistlineorwaistbandthatistoolarge,althoughgarmentfitsathipsandbust.Adresswithawaistlineseamisbaggy,withlooseverticalfoldsatthewaist.Onaskirtorpants,waistbandstandsawayfromwaistandtendstoslidedown.
MinorAdjustment
Removeone-fourththeamountneededateachseam—maximumof3/8"(1cm)perseamfromsizessmallerthan16;5/8"(1.5cm)fromsize16andlarger.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.Ondart-fittedskirtsorpants,donotmakedartsdeepertoreducewaistlineunlessadditionalgarmentcontouringisneededtofitbroadcurvyhipsorfullroundseat.Adjustwidthonadjoiningpatternpieces.
MajorAdjustment
Drawaline5"(12.5cm)long,paralleltolengthwisegrainline,betweensideseamanddart.Drawasecondlinefrombottomoffirstlinetosideseam,atrightangletograinline.
Slidesectionintoremoveupto1"(2.5cm)fromwaistseam.Tapepaperunderneath.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines.Makematchingadjustmentonback,removingupto2"(5cm)fromeachseamforatotalreductionof4"(10cm).
Pin-fitpatterntocheckpositionofwaistlinedarts.Itmaybenecessarytoreshapeormovethedartsclosertocenterfrontandbackforgoodfit.Makeacorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicepattern.
LargeWaist
Poorfitisindicatedbyhorizontalwrinklesnearthewaist,whichcausethewaistlineofadresstorise.Awaistbandonskirtoronpantscreasesfromstrain.Wrinklesfanoutfromwaistorformhorizontalfoldsbelowwaistband.
MinorAdjustment
Addone-fourththeamountneededateachseam,addingupto3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.Ondart-fittedskirts,eachdartcanbereducedupto¼"(6mm)toenlargewaistline.Blendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.Makecorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicepatterns.
MajorAdjustment
Drawadjustmentlinesandcutpatternasinstep1forsmallwaist(page95).Slidesectionoutupto1"(2.5cm).Tapepaperunderneath.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinestowaist,usingcurvedruler,andtohem,usingstraightedge.Makematchingadjustmentonbackpattern,addingupto2"(5cm)perseamfortotalof4"(10cm).
Pin-fitpatterntocheckpositionofwaistlinedarts.Itmaybenecessarytoreshapedartsormovethemclosertothesideseamsforabetterfit.Makeacorrespondingwidthadjustmenttoadjoiningwaistband,facing,orbodicesections.
ProminentAbdomen
Poorfitisindicatedbyhorizontalwrinklesacrossthefrontbelowthewaistline.Diagonalwrinklesfromabdomentosidespullsideseamsforward.Waistlineandhemlinemayrideup.Extralengthandwidthareneededatcenterfront.
MinorAdjustment
Raisewaiststitchinglineonfrontskirtorpantspatternupto3/8"(1cm)atcenterfronttoaddmorelength.Foldoutdarts,andblendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.
Addupto½"(1.3cm)atsideseamofthefrontpatternpiece.Removesameamountfrombackpatternpiecetomaintainthewaistcircumference.Tofurtherimprovefit,convertfrontdartstogathersorunpressedpleats.
MajorAdjustment
Drawdiagonaladjustmentlinesonpatternfromintersectionofsideseamandwaistlineseamthroughdartpoints,extendingatrightangletocenterfront.Cutonline.Cutondartfoldlineto,butnotthrough,dartpoint.
Slidecentersectionuptheamountneededandouthalftheamountneeded,openingdartsanddiagonalslash.Extendcenterfrontlinefromnewpositiontohemline.Dartscanalsobeconvertedtogathersorunpressedpleats.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatwaistline.
FlatAbdomen
Poorfitisindicatedbyverticalwrinklesandexcessfabricatcenterfront.Hipbonesmayprotrude.Dartsarepoorlylocatedandtoodeepforflatabdomencontour.
AdjustmentsforFlatAbdomen
Redrawshallowerdartsbyremovinganequalamountoneachsideofdartfoldline.Torestoretheoriginalwaistlinemeasurement,removethesameamountfromsideseam,blendingfromapointonwaistlineseamtohiplinewithcurvedruler.
Movedartsclosertosideseamforprominenthipbones.Cutoutdartasforraisingorloweringbustdart(page92),andslideittocorrectpositionafterpin-fittingpattern.Foldoutdart,andblendwaistlinestitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.
Swayback
Poorfitiscausedbyposturevariation;areadirectlybeneathwaistinbackdoesnotfitsmoothly,orskirtbagsinseatarea,indicatingthatgarmentistoolongatcenterback.Diagonalwrinklesform,indicatingthatdartwidthorlengthiswrongforbodyshape.Pinoutexcesstodetermineamounttoshortenatcenterback.
AdjustmentforSwayback
Adjustdarts,ifnecessary,toaccommodateprotrusionofseat.Ifdartwidthischanged,makecorrespondingwidthadjustmentatsideseamtomaintainwaistsize.Lowerthewaiststitchinglineonthebackskirtpatterntheamountneeded.Folddartstowardcenterandblendstitchingandcuttinglines,usingcurvedruler.
FITTINGHIPS
Whengarmentsfitwellatthehipline,theyfeelcomfortablewhetheryouarestandingorsitting.Theyalsolooksmooth,withoutstrainedwrinklesorexcessfabricfolds.
Beforeadjustingforwidth,makeanybasiclengtheningorshorteningadjustmentsbelowthewaistline.Lengthadjustmentsmayeliminatetheneedforadjustingpatternhipcircumference.Ifyouhaveonehiphigherthantheother,itmaybenecessarytomakeacopyofthepatternandadjustaseparatepatternpieceforeachsideofthebody.Ifyourhipsarefullerorslimmerthantheaverage,adjustthepatterntoincludetherightamountofease.Forwearingcomfort,theremustbeaminimumof2"(5cm)ease,orextraroom,atthehiplineofthegarmentforsizessmallerthan16.Forsize16orlarger,theremustbeatleast2½"(6.5cm)ofease.Youmayneedmorethanminimumeaseforgoodfitifyouhavefullhipsorareusingathickfabric.Youmayneedlessifyouareworkingwithaknit.
HowtoDeterminePatternAdjustments
Measurehips,asviewedfromtheside,whereseatprotrudesmost,keepingtapemeasureparalleltofloor.Determinewherehiplinefallsbymeasuringatsideseamfromwaisttofullestpartofhips.Add2"to2½"(5to6.5cm)minimumeasetomeasurement.
Markpatternsideseamatpointwherefullestpartofhiplinefalls.Lapthebackandfrontpatternpiecesatmark.Measurehiplinefromcenterfronttocenterbackatthisposition.Doublethismeasurementtoarriveattotalfinishedcircumference.Comparewithhipmeasurementpluseasetodetermineifadjustmentisneeded.
FullHips
Poorfitcauseshorizontalwrinklesacrosships.Skirtcupsunderseatinback.Skirttendstorideup,becausethereisnotenoughwidthathipleveltofitfullhips.Patternneedsenlargingathipline.
MajorAdjustment
Markhiplineatsideseamofbackandfrontpatterns.Addone-fourththeamountneededateachsideseam,nexttomark.Addmaximumof3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.
Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptowaistwithcurvedruler.Marknewstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptohemwithstraightedge.
MinorAdjustment
Drawalineparalleltothehiplineapproximately5"(12.5cm)belowthewaistline.Drawasecondlineparalleltolengthwisegrainlinefromendoffirstlinetohem.Cutonlines.
Slidesectionouttoaddone-fourththeamountneeded.Addmaximumof1"(2.5cm)tosizesunder16fortotalof2"(5cm)perseam,and1½"(3.8cm)tosizes16andabovefortotalof3"(7.5cm)perseam.
Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromhiptowaistwithcurvedruler.Markthehipareatothehemwithastraightedge.
SmallHips
Poorfitcausesexcessfabrictodrapeinfoldsandlookbaggy.Skirthiplineistoobroadforfigurewithslenderhips.Patternwidthneedsreductionathipline,anddartsmayhavetobereduced.Ifdartsarereduced,sidewaistseammustbedecreasedequalamount,asonpage95.
MinorAdjustment
Markhiplineatsideseamonbackandfrontpatterns.Removeone-fourththeamountneededateachsideseam,nexttomark.Removeupto3/8"(1cm)perseamallowancefortotalof¾"(2cm)perseam.Marknewstitchingandcuttinglinesasinstep2(page100,top).
MajorAdjustment
Reducedartsizeasneeded.Makesidewaistadjustment(page95).Drawadjustmentlineandcutasformajoradjustmentforfullhips,step1,opposite.Slidesectionintoremoveone-fourthoftheextrawidthatthehipline.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesfromwaisttohipareawithcurvedruler.Markhipareatohemwithstraightedge.
UnevenHips
Poorfitcausesdiagonalwrinklesononeside.Fabricisoffgraininhiparea.Onehipmaybefuller,slimmer,orhigherthanotherhip.Makenecessarywidthadjustmentsindartsandsideseam.
HowtoAdjustPatternforOneHighHip
Tracefrontandbackskirtpatternpieces.Labelrightandleftsides.Drawadjustmentlineonpoorfitside5"(12.5cm)long,paralleltolengthwisegrainline,beginningmidwaybetweensideseamanddart.Drawasecondlineatrightanglefrombottomoffirstlinetosideseam.Cutonadjustmentlines.
Slideadjustmentsectionuptoaddnecessarylengthforfittinghighhip.Tapepaperunderneath.Adjustskirtbackandfronttomatch.Folddartsortucksastheywillbepressed.Blendstitchingandcuttinglinesatwaistandsideseams.
SeamsAseamisthebasicelementinallgarmentconstruction.Itiscreatedbystitchingtwopiecesoffabrictogether,usually5/8"(1.5cm)fromthecutedge.Perfectseamsarethemostobvioussignofawell-madegarment.Puckered,crooked,orunevenseamsspoilthefitaswellasthelook.
Inadditiontoholdingagarmenttogether,seamscanbeusedasadesignelement.Seamsplacedinunusuallocationsortopstitchedwithcontrastingthreadaddinteresttoagarment.Mostplainseamsrequireaseamfinishtopreventraveling.Aseamfinishisawayoftreatingorenclosingtherawedgesofseamallowancessotheyaremoredurableanddonotravel.
Variationsoftheplainseamincludebound,encased,topstitched,andeasedseams.Some,suchastheflat-fellseam,addstrengthorshape.Others,suchasFrenchorboundseams,improvetheappearanceofthegarmentormakeitlongerwearing.
TechniquesforMachine-StitchingSeams
Positionthebulkofthefabrictotheleftofthemachineneedle,withcutedgestotheright.Supportandguidefabricgentlywithbothhandsasyoustitch.
Useguidelinesetchedonthethroatplateofthemachinetohelpyousewstraightseams.Forextrahelp,useaseamguideorstripofmaskingtapeplacedthedesireddistancefromtheneedle.
Usethethreadcutterlocatedatthebackofthepresserbarassemblytocutthreadsafterstitching.Oruseathreadclippertocutthreads.
HowtoSewaPlainSeam
Pinseam,rightsidesoffabrictogether,atregularintervals,matchingnotchesandothermarkingsprecisely.Placepinsatrightanglestoseamline,usually5/8"(1.5cm)fromedge,withpointsjustbeyondseamlineandheadstowardcutedgeforeasyremoval.
Securestitchingwithbackstitching.Thenstitchforwardonseamline,removingpinsasyoucometothem.Backstitch½"(1.3cm)atendtosecurethestitching.Trimthreads.
Pressoverstitchinglineonwrongsidetopressseamflat.Thisblendsstitchesintofabric.Thenpressseamopen.Useyourfingersorthebluntendofapointturnertoopenseamsasyoupress.Ifseamiscurved,suchashipareaofskirtorpants,pressovercurvedareaofatailor’sham.
HowtoSewCurvedSeams
Stitchalineofreinforcementstitchingjustinsideseamlineofinnercurveofcenterpanel.Clipintoseamallowanceallthewaytothestitchinglineatintervalsalongthecurve.
Pininnerandoutercurves,rightsidestogetherwithclippededgeontop,spreadingclippedinnercurvetomatchallmarkingsandfitoutercurve.
Stitchonseamlinewithclippedseamontop,usingshorterstitchthanusualforthefabricandbeingcarefultokeepthelowerlayeroffabricsmooth.
Cutoutwedge-shapednotchesintheseamallowanceofoutercurvebymakingsmallfoldsinseamallowanceandcuttingatslightangle.Becarefulnottocutintostitchingline.
Pressseamflattoembedandsmooththestitches.Turnoverandpressontheotherside.
Pressseamopenovercurveoftailor’sham,usingtipofirononly.Donotpressintobodyofgarment.Ifnotpressedtocontour,seamlinesbecomedistortedandlookpulledoutofshape.
Encasedseamsdifferfromboundseamsinthatnoadditionalfabricorbindingisused.Thecutedgesofseamallowancesareenclosedwithintheseamitself.Encasedseamsarebestsuitedtolightweightfabrics,sincetheadditionalbulkcreatedisnotaproblem.Theseseamsareespeciallyappropriateforsheerfabrics,becausenoraworcontrastingedgesshowthrough.Useastraightstitchfootandneedleplate(page12)tokeepsheerfabricfrombeingpulledintothefeed.
ENCASEDSEAMS
Useencasedseamsforblouses,unlinedjackets,lingerie,orsheercurtains.Theyarealsoanexcellentchoiceforchildren’sclothes,becausetheystanduptoruggedwearandrepeatedlaundering.
Selfboundseambeginswithaplainseam.Oneseamallowanceisthenfoldedovertheotherandstitchedagain.
Frenchseamlookslikeaplainseamontherightsideandanarrowtuckonthewrongside.Itbeginsbystitchingthewrongsidesofthefabrictogether.Thisseamisdifficulttosewincurvedareas,soisbestusedonstraightseams.
MockFrenchseambeginswithaplainseam.Seamallowancesaretrimmed,foldedtotheinsideandstitchedalongthefolds.TheselfboundandmockFrenchseamscanbeusedincurvedorstraightareas.
HowtoSewaSelf-boundSeam
Stitchaplainseam.Donotpressopen.Trimoneseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).
Turnundertheuntrimmedseamallowance1/8"(3mm).Thenturnagain,enclosingthenarrowtrimmededgeandbringingthefoldededgetotheseamline.
Stitchonthefoldededge,ascloseaspossibletofirstlineofstitching.Pressseamtooneside.
HowtoSewaFrenchSeam
Pinwrongsidesoffabrictogether.Stitch3/8"(1cm)fromedgesonrightsideoffabric.
Trimseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).Foldrightsidestogether,withstitchinglineexactlyonfold.Pressflat.
Stitch¼"(6mm)fromfold.Thisstepencasescutedges.Checkrightsidetobesurenoraveledthreadsareshowing.Pressseamtooneside.
HowtoSewaMockFrenchSeam
Stitchaplainseam.Trimbothseamallowancesto½"(1.3cm).Pressopen.
Press¼"(6mm)oneachseamallowancetowardinsideofseam,socutedgesmeetatstitchingline.
Stitchedgestogether,stitchingasclosetofoldsaspossible.Pressseamtooneside.
HowtoSewaFlat-FellSeam
Pinfabric,wrongsidestogether,atseamlinewithpinheadstowardrawedges.Stitch,takingtheusual5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowance.
Pressseamallowancestooneside.Trimthelowerseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm).
Turnunder¼"(6mm)ontheupperseamallowanceandpress.
Pinfoldedseamallowancetogarment,concealingtrimmedloweredge.
Edgestitchonfold,removingpinsasyoucometothem.
Finishedseamisareversibleflatseamwithtwovisiblerowsofstitchingoneachside.
HowtoSewaMockFlat-fellSeam
Stitchaplainseam.Pressseamallowancestooneside.Trimlowerseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).
Topstitchonrightsideofgarment,¼"to½"(6mmto1.3cm)fromtheseamline.Edgestitchclosetotheseamline.
Finishedseamlooksliketheflat-fellseamontherightside,buthasoneexposedseamallowanceonwrongside.
STRETCHSEAMS
Stretchfabricsforcasualoractionwearincludejersey,stretchterry,stretchvelour,andotherknits.Stretchwovenfabricsincludestretchdenim,stretchpoplin,andstretchcorduroy.Forswimwearandleotards,Lycraknitsareavailable.Seamsinthesefabricsmuststretchor“give”withthefabric.Somesewingmachineshavespecialknitstitchesthatincorporatestretch.
Testtheseamorknitstitchonascrapoffabrictodetermineitsappropriatenesstotheweightandstretchinessofthefabric.Someofthespecialknitstitchesaremoredifficulttoripthanstraightstitching,sobesurethegarmentfitsbeforestitching.Becauseknitsdonotravel,theyusuallydonotrequireseamfinishing.
Double-stitchedseamgivesaninsurancerowofstitchingtoaseam.Usethismethodifyourmachinedoesnotzigzag.
Straightandzigzagseamcombinesastraightseamwiththestretchinessofzigzag.Thisisasuitablefinishforknitsthattendtocurlalongtherawedges.
Narrowzigzagseamisusedforknitsthatdonotcurlalongedges.Itisafast,easystretchseam.
Straightstretchstitchisformedbyaforward/backwardmotionofreverseactionmachines.Itmakesastrong,stretchyseamappropriateforstressedareassuchasarmholes.
Straightwithoveredgestitchhasaspecialpatternwhichcombinesa
straightstretchstitchwithdiagonalstitching.Itjoinsandfinishestheseaminonestep.
Elasticstretchstitchisanexcellentchoiceforswimwearandleotards.Thestitchcombinesanarrowandwidezigzagpattern.
Tapedseamsareusedinareaswhereyoudonotwantstretch,suchasshoulderseams.
HowtoSewaTapedSeam
Pinfabric,rightsidestogether,sothattwilltapeorseambindingispinnedoverseamline.Positionseambindingsoitlaps3/8"(1cm)intotheseamallowance.
Stitch,usingdoublestitched,straightandzigzag,overedge,ornarrowzigzagseam.Pressseamopenortooneside,dependingonselectedseam.
Trimseamallowanceclosetostitching,takingcarenottocutintoseambinding.
Aseamfinishlendsacouturetouchandimprovedappearancetoanygarment.Finishseamstopreventwovenfabricsfromravelingandknitseamsfromcurling.Seamfinishesalsostrengthenseamsandhelpthemstanduptorepeatedwashingsandwearing,makingthegarmentlooknewlonger.
SEAMFINISHES
Seamsshouldbefinishedastheyarestitched,beforebeingcrossedbyanotherseam.Afinishshouldnotaddbulkorshowanobviousimprintontherightsideofthegarmentafteritispressed.Ifyouarenotsurewhichseamfinishtouse,tryseveralonafabricscraptoseewhichworksbest.
Theseamfinishesshownhereallbeginwithaplainseam.Theycanalsobeusedasedgefinishesforfacingsandhems.
Selvagefinishrequiresnoextrastitching.Appropriateforstraightseamsofwovenfabrics,itrequiresadjustingthepatternlayoutsothattheseamiscutontheselvage.
Stitchedandpinkedseamfinishissuitableforfirmlywovenfabrics.Itisaquickandeasyfinishthatpreventsravelingandcurling.
Turnedandstitchedfinish(alsocalledclean-finished)issuitableforlight-tomedium-weightwovenfabrics.
Zigzagseamfinishespreventravelingandaregoodforknits,becausetheyhavemoregivethanstraightstitchedfinishes.Thesefinishesusethebuilt-institchesonautomaticzigzagmachines.
BasicSeamFinishes
Selvagefinish.Adjustpatternlayoutsothatedgesofseamarecutonselvage.Topreventshrinkingandpuckering,clipdiagonallyintobothselvagesat3"to4"(7.5to10cm)intervalsafterseamisstitched.
Stitchedandpinkedfinish.Stitch¼"(6mm)fromedgeofeachseamallowance.Pressseamopen.Trimclosetostitchingwithpinkingorscallopingshears.
HowtoSewaTurnedandStitchedFinish
Stitch1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)fromedgeofeachseamallowance.Onstraightedges,thisstitchingmaynotbenecessary.
Turnunderseamallowanceonstitchingline.Thestitchinghelpstheedgeturnunder,especiallyoncurves.
Stitchclosetoedgeoffold,throughseamallowanceonly.Pressseamopen.
HowtoSewaZigzagFinish
Setzigzagstitchformaximumwidth.Stitchnear,butnotover,edgeofeachseamallowance.
Trimclosetostitching,beingcarefulnottocutintostitching.
OtherZigzagFinishes
Overedgezigzagfinish.Trimseamedgesevenly,ifnecessary.Adjustzigzagstitchlengthandwidthtosuitfabric.Stitchclosetoedgeofeachseamallowancesothatstitchesgoovertheedge.Iffabricpuckers,loosentensionbyturningtoalowernumber.
3-stepzigzagfinish.Usestitchthatputsthreeshortstitchesinspaceofonezigzagwidth.Setmachineforpatternstitchandadjustlengthandwidthtosuitfabric.Stitchclosetoedgeofseamallowance.Onsomemachines,aserpentinestitchgivessameresults.Trimclosetostitchingline.
BOUNDSEAMFINISHES
Thesefinishestotallyenclosethecutedgeofseamallowancesandpreventraveling.Theyalsoenhancetheappearanceoftheinsideofthegarment.Boundseamfinishesareagoodchoiceforunlinedjackets,especiallythosemadeofheavyfabricsorthosewhichraveleasily.
Themostcommonlyusedboundfinishesarethebiasbound,tricotboundandHongKongfinishes.Medium-weightfabricssuchaschino,denim,linen,gabardine,andflannel,andheavyweightfabricssuchaswools,velvet,velveteen,andcorduroycanutilizeanyofthethree.Begineachofthesefinishesbysewingaplainseam.Boundfinishescanalsobeusedonhemorfacingedges.
Biasboundistheeasiestboundfinish.Usepurchaseddouble-foldbiastape,availableincotton,rayonorpolyester,tomatchthefashionfabric.
Tricotboundisaninconspicuousfinishformostfabrics.Precutsheernylonstripsareavailablein5/8"(1.5cm)or¼"(3.2cm)width.Usethenarrowerwidthforbindingseams.
HongKongfinishisacouturetechniqueusedondesignerclothing,butbecauseitissoeasyandgivessuchafinefinishtotheinsideofagarment,ithasbecomeafavoriteofmanyhomesewers.
HowtoSewaHongKongFinish
Cutbiasstripsofliningfabric,1¼"(3.2cm)wide.Joinstripsasnecessary(page80)toformstripstwicethelengthoftheseamstobefinished.
Alignbiasstriponrightsideofseamallowance.Stitch¼"(6mm)fromcutedge,stretchingbiasslightlyasyoustitch.Useedgeofpresserfootasstitchingguide.
Trimseamallowanceofheavyfabricto1/8"(3mm)toreducebulk.Lightweightfabricdoesnotneedtobetrimmed.
Pressbiasstripbackovercutedgeofseamallowance.Foldbiasstriptotheunderside,enclosingthecutedge.
Pinbiasstripinplacethroughalllayers.Cutedgeofbiasstripneedsnofinishing,sinceabiascutdoesnotravel.
Stitchintheditch(thegroovewherethebiasstripandfabricwerestitchedtogether).Thisstitchingishiddenontherightsideandcatchescutedgeofbiasstripunderneath.Presslightly.
SergerSeamsandSeamFinishesSergedseamscanbeusedonmanygarments.Yourinstructionmanualmayincludesuggestionsforwherestitchesareused.Garmentstyle,fabricselection,andpersonalpreferencewillhelpyoudecidewhichseamstouse.Thesergedseamaloneisnotalwayssuitableforgarmentconstruction.Manyseamsaresewnusingboththesergerandtheconventionalmachine.Forexample,pants,jackets,orgarmentsrequiringadjustablefit,orseamsthatwillbesubjectedtoagreatamountofstress,shouldbesewnwithapressed-openconventionalseamandoveredgedseamallowances.
TypesofSeamsandSeamFinishes
Overlockseams(page16)areappropriateforwovensandknits.Choosethe3-threadoverlockforlooselyfittedornonstressedseams.Themoresecure4-threadand5-threadsafetystitchesareusedprimarilyforwovensbecausethechainstitchmaypopwhenstretched.The3-threadand4-threadmocksafetystitches,designedfordurablestretchseams,mayalsobeusedonwovens.
Overedgeseamfinish(page116)forconventionalseamsisusedwhenitisdesirabletokeeptheentire5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Itisthebestchoicefortailoredgarmentssewnfromwools,linens,andsilksuitings.Itisalsorecommendedwheneverfitisuncertaintoallowforlettingoutseams.
Reinforcedseam(page116)isrecommendedforseamsthatwillbestressed.
Frenchseam(page116)isusedforsheersandlooselywovenfabrics.Theseamwilladdbulk,soitisbestusedonfull,gathereditemssuchasskirtsandcurtains.
Rolledseam(page117)maybeusedinsteadofFrenchseamsforsheersthatarefirmlywovenandforlaces.
Mockflat-fellseam(page117)isusedfordenimandotherheavyweightwovenfabrics.
Reversiblelappedseam(page117)isusedforreversiblegarmentsorforthick,looselywovenfabricstoprovideaddedstrength.
Gatheredseam(page118)isfinishedinoneeasystepusingdifferentialfeedandashirringfoot.Analternatemethodusestheconventionalmachinewiththeserger.
Mockflatlockseam(page118)isusedforadecorativeeffect,withdecorativethreadusedintheupperlooper.
Flatlockonafold(page119)isusedforthedecorativeeffectofaflatlockseamonfabricthathasbeenfoldedandstitched.
TypesofStabilizedSeams
Thereareseveralmethodsforstabilizingseamsinsergergarmentconstruction.Thetypeoffabricyouaresewingandthedesiredeffectwilldeterminewhichmethodyouchoose.
Fusiblestabilizedseam(page119)usesfusibleinterfacingstripstostabilizeseams.Interfacingcanalsobeusedasastablebasefordecorativeedgefinishesonstretchyknitorbias-cutfabrics.
Elasticstabilizedseam(page119)usestransparentelastictoallowfullstretchandrecoveryinasergedseam,butpreventsfabricfromstretchingoutofshape.
Nonstretchstabilizedseam(page119)usestwilltape,seamtape,orribbontopreventstretchingofthefabricattheseamline.
Slight-stretchstabilizedseam(page119)usestricotbiasbindingtoreinforceandstabilizeaseamwhereslightstretchisdesired.UsethismethodforstabilizingseamsinsweaterknitsandT-shirtknits,whichneedsupportwithoutcompletelyrestrictingthestretchofthefabric.
BasicSeamsandSeamFinishes
Overedgeseamfinishforconventionalseam.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,rightsidestogether,usingconventionalmachine.Stitchseamallowances,slightlytrimmingrawedge,usingoveredgeoroverlockstitch.
Reinforcedseam.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,rightsidestogether,usingconventionalmachine;usenarrowzigzagonmoderate-stretchknits.Sergeseamallowancestogether1/8"(3mm)fromseamline.
Frenchseam.Overedgeseam,wrongsidestogether,withleftneedlepositioned¼"(6mm)insideseamallowance.Foldfabric,rightsidestogether,enclosingoveredgedfabric;press.Straight-stitchclosetoenclosedstitches,usingzipperfootontheconventionalmachine.
Rolledseam.Placefabricrightsidestogether.Stitchseam,usingarolledhemstitch,withneedlepositionedonseamline;trimexcessseamallowance.Press.Usetricotbiasbindingtostabilizelaceedge,asshownonpage119,ifdesired.
HowtoSewaMockFlat-FellSeam
Placefabricrightsidestogether.Stitch,usingaconventionalmachine.Sergeseamallowancestogether,trimmingslightly.
Pressseamallowancetowardoneside;topstitchfromrightsidenexttoseamline,usingaconventionalmachine.Topstitchagain,¼"(6mm)away,throughalllayers.
HowtoSewaReversibleLappedSeam
Stitcheachsingle-layerseamallowance,usingoveredgeoroverlockstitchandaligningneedletoseamline.
Lapgarmentsectionssoseamlinesmeet;glue-baste.
Straight-stitchthroughalllayers1/8"(3mm)fromsergedstitches,frombothsidesofgarment,usingconventionalmachine.
HowtoSewaGatheredSeam
Replaceregularpresserfootwithshirringfoot;setdifferentialfeedtoalargernumber.Alignedgesoftwofabriclayerstogether;positionlayerssofabrictobegatheredisonthebottom.Overlocktheseamwithneedlepositionedontheseamline.
AlternateMethod
Basteinseamallowancenearseamline,usingconventionalmachine.Overedgeseamallowance,slightlytrimmingrawedge.Alignover-edgedfabrictocorrespondingsection,rightsidestogether,matchingasnecessary;pin.Pullbobbinthreadandsergerneedlethread,gatheringfabrictofit.
Stitchseam,usingconventionalmachine.Overedgeseamallowances,usingserger.Or,overlockseam,withleftneedlepositionedonseamline,trimmingawayexcessseamallowance;removepinsastheyapproachknives.
HowtoSewaMockFlatlockSeam
Usedecorativethreadinupperlooper.Sergefabric,wrongsidestogether;pressseamtoonesidewithdecorativethreadontop.
Topstitchdecorativesergedseamthroughalllayers,usingconventionalmachine.
HowtoFlatlockonaFoldofFabric
Markstitchplacementlineonrightsideoffabric.Fold,wrongsidestogether,onmarkedline.Adjustsergerforflatlockstitch.Placefabricslightlytotheleftofknives.
Sergeseamwithouttrimmingfoldoffabric.Positionstitcheshalfonandhalfofffabric.
Openthefabric,andpullthestitchesflat.
StabilizedSeam
Fusiblestabilizedseam.Cut¾"(2cm)stripoffusibleknitinterfacingthelengthoftheseam.Fusetowrongsideofgarment.Stitchseam.
Elasticstabilizedseam.Useelastictapefoot,ifavailable,oruseregularpresserfoot;adjustfoottensiontodragslightlyagainstelastic.Sergeseamwithouttrimmingelastic;increasedifferentialfeedtoeasefabric,ifdesired.
Nonstretchstabilizedseam.Sergeasinelasticstabilizedseam,left;usetwilltape,seamtape,orribbon,andadjustfoottensionsoitdoesnotdragonstabilizer.Decreasedifferentialfeedslightly,ifdesired,topreventpuckeringofseam.
Slight-stretchstabilizedseam.Cutastripoftricotbiasbindingthelengthoftheseam.Increasedifferentialfeedslightly,toeasefabricandpreventoverstretchingseam.Sergethroughrelaxedstrip;trimexcessbindingclosetostitches.
DartsAdartisusedtoshapeaflatpieceoffabrictofitbust,waist,hip,orelbowcurves.Therearetwotypesofdarts.Asingle-pointeddartiswideatoneendandpointedattheother.Ashapeddarthaspointsatbothends.Itisusuallyusedatthewaistline,withthepointsextendingtothebustandhips.Besidesprovidingacloserfit,dartsarealsousedtocreatespecialdesignertouchesanduniquestyles.Perfectdartsarestraightandsmooth,notpuckeredattheends.Thedartsontherightandleftsidesofthegarmentshouldhavethesameplacementandlength.
DartTechniques
Shapeddartsarestitchedintwosteps,beginningatthewaistlineandstitchingtowardeachpoint.Overlapstitchingatwaistabout1"(2.5cm).Clipdartfoldatwaistlineandmidwayalongpoints,towithin1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)ofstitchingtorelievestrainandallowdarttocurvesmoothly.
Widedartsanddartsinbulkyfabricsshouldbeslashedopenonthefoldlineandtrimmedto5/8"(1.5cm)orless.Slashtowithin½"(1.3cm)ofpoint.Pressdartopenandpresspointflat.
Pressdartsoverthecurveofatailor’shamtomaintainthebuiltincurve.Verticaldartsareusuallypressedtowardthecenterfrontorcenterback.Horizontaldartsareusuallypresseddownward.
HowtoSewaDart
Markdartusingappropriatemarkingmethodforfabric.Markpointofdartwithhorizontalline.
Folddartoncenterline,matchingstitchinglinesandmarkingsatthewideend,thepointandinbetween.Pininplace,withheadsofpinstowardfoldededgeforeasyremovalasyoustitch.
Stitchfromwideendtopointofdart.Backstitchatbeginningofstitchingline,thencontinuestitchingtowardpoint,removingpinsasyoucometothem.
Tapertopointofdart.When½"(1.3cm)remains,shortenstitchlengthto12to16stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Takelasttwoorthreestitchesdirectlyonfold.Donotbackstitchatthepoint,becausethismaycausepuckering.Continuestitchingoffedgeoffabric.
Raisepresserfootandpulldarttowardfront.About1"(2.5cm)backfrompointofdart,lowerpresserfootandsecurethreadbystitchingseveraltimesinfoldofthedartwithstitchlengthsetat0.Clipthreadsclosetoknot.
Pressfoldededgeofdartflat,beingcarefulnottocreasefabricbeyondthepoint.Thenplacedartovercurveoftailor’shamandpressinproperdirection(opposite).Foraneat,flatfinish,pressdartsbeforetheyarestitchedintoaseam.
GathersAsoft,femininegarmentlineisoftenshapedwithgathers.Theymaybefoundatwaistlines,cuffs,yokes,necklines,orsleevecaps.Softandsheerfabricsproduceadrapedlookwhengathered;crispfabricscreateabillowyeffect.
Gathersstartwithtwostitchinglinesonalongpieceoffabric.Thestitchinglinesarethenpulledateachendtodrawupthefabric.Finally,thegatheredpieceissewntoashorterlengthoffabric.
Thestitchlengthforgatheringislongerthanforordinarysewing.Useastitchlengthof6to8stitchesperinch(2.5cm)formedium-weightfabrics.Forsoftorsheerfabrics,use8to10stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Experimentwiththefabrictoseewhichstitchlengthgathersbest.Alongerstitchhelpstodrawupthefabric,butashorterstitchgivesmorecontrolwhenadjustinggathers.
Beforeyoustitch,loosentheupperthreadtension.Thebobbinstitchingispulledtodrawupthegathers,andaloosertensionmakesthiseasier.
Ifthefabricisheavyorstiff,useheavy-dutythreadinthebobbin.Acontrastingcolorinthebobbinalsohelpsdistinguishitfromtheupperthread.
HowtoSewBasicGathers
Stitchascant5/8"(1.5cm)fromrawedgeonrightsideoffabric,startingandendingatseamline.Loosenuppertensionandlengthenstitchesappropriatetofabric.Stitchasecondrowinseamallowance,¼"(6mm)awayfromfirstrow.Thisdoublerowofstitchinggivesbettercontrolingatheringthanasinglerow.
Pinstitchededgetocorrespondinggarmentsection,rightsidestogether,atseams,notches,centerlines,andothermarkings.Fabricwilldroopbetweenpins.Iftherearenomarkingstoguideyou,dividebothedgesintoquartersandpinoutfullnessevenly.
Pullbothbobbinthreadsfromoneend,slidingfabricalongthreadtogather.Whenhalfthegatheredsectionfitsthestraightedge,securebobbinthreadsbytwistinginafigureeightaroundpin.Pullbobbinthreadsfromotherendtogatherremaininghalf.
Pingathersinplaceatfrequentintervals.Distributegathersevenlybetweenpins.Resetstitchlengthandtensionforregularsewing.
Stitch,gatheredsideup,justoutsidegatheringlines.Adjustgathersbetweenpinsasyoustitch.Holdgatherstautwithfingersonbothsidesofneedletokeepgatherseven.
Trimseamallowancesofanyseamsthathavebeensewnintothestitchingline,trimmingoffcornersatadiagonal.
Pressseamallowanceonwrongside,usingtipofiron.Thenopenoutgarmentandpressseaminthedesireddirection:towardgathersforpuffylook,towardgarmentforsmootherlook.
Pressintogatherswithpointofirononrightsideofgarment,liftingironasyoureachseam.Donotpressacrossgathers;thiswillflattenthem.
GatheringwithElastic
Gathersformedwithelasticoffercomfortableandeasyfit.Thistechniqueensuresuniformgathersandcreatesshapethatisrelaxedandnotasclosetothebodyasothershapebuilders.
Elasticcanbestitcheddirectlytothegarmentorinsertedinacasing.Acasingisatunnelforelastic,createdwithaturned-underedgeorwithbiastapestitchedtothefabric.Chooseanelasticthatissuitabletothesewingtechniqueandareaofthegarmentwhereitisused(page33).
Elasticinacasingcanbeanywidth.Useafirm,braided,ornon-rollelastic.Braidedelastichaslengthwiseribs,andnarrowswhenstretched.
Stitchedelasticcallsforwovenorknittedelasticswhicharesoft,strong,andcomfortabletowearnexttotheskin.Onshortareassuchassleeveorlegedges,itiseasiesttoapplytheelasticwhilethegarmentsectionisflat.Atawaistline,overlaptheendsoftheelasticandstitchtoformacirclebeforepinningtothegarment.
Cutelasticthelengthrecommendedbythepattern.Thislengthincludesaseamallowance.Toaddelasticwhenthepatterndoesnotcallforit,cuttheelasticslightlyshorterthanthebodymeasurementplusseamallowance.Allow1"(2.5cm)extraforastitchedelasticseam,½"(1.3cm)extraforoverlappingelasticinacasing.
HowtoSewStitchedElastic
Foldelasticandfabricintofourths.Markfoldlinesofelasticandgarmentwithpins.
Pinelastictowrongsideofgarment,matchingmarkingpins.Leave½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceateachendofelastic.
Stitchelastictofabric,stretchingelasticbetweenpins,withonehandbehindneedleandotherhandatnextpin.Applywithazigzag,multistitchzigzag,ortworowsofstraightstitching,onealongeachedge.
HowtoSewElasticinCasing(waistlineseam)
Pinsheerbiastricotstriporbiastapethatis¼"(6mm)widerthantheelastictoinsideofgarmentalongmarkedcasinglines,beginningandendingatonesideseam.Turnunder¼"(6mm)ateachendofbiastapeandpintoseamline.Foreasyapplication,workonironingboardwithgarmentwrongsideout.
Stitchtapeclosetoedges,leavingopeningatseamtoinsertelastic.Donotbackstitchatendsofstitching,becausethisstitchingshowsontherightsideofthegarment.Instead,pullallfourendstoinsideandknot.
Insertelasticthroughcasingusingabodkinorsafetypin,takingcarenottotwistelastic.Placealargesafetypinacrossfreeendofelastictopreventitfrompullingthrough.
Lapendsofelastic½"(1.3cm)andsewtogetherwithstraightorzigzagstitches,stitchingforward,backstitching,andforwardagain.Clipthreadends.Easeelasticbackintocasing.
Slipstitchendsofcasingtogether.Distributegathersevenlyalongtheelastic.
Sleeves
Whethershortorlong,allsleevesareoneofthreebasicstyles:set-in,kimono,orraglan.
Set-insleeveshavearoundedcapthatislargerthanthecorrespondingpartofthearmhole.Thecapmustbeeasedtofitsmoothlyintoplace.Asasofterfashiondetail,set-insleevesmayalsohavegathersorpleatsinthesleevecap.Thetraditionalmethodofsettinginsleevesusestworowsofeasestitchingonthesleevetofitthecapintoplace.Theflatmethod,opposite,isusedforamantailoredshirtsleeve,whichhaslesseasethanclassicset-instyles.Thesleeveisinsertedbeforethesleeveorgarmentsideseamsarestitched.
Kimonosleevesextendwithoutseamsfromgarmentfrontandbacksections.Shouldershapingisrounded,asinraglansleeves.Kimonosleevesareoftenlooselyfittedanddrapesoftlyunderthearms.Evenloose-fittingkimonosleevesaresubjecttostressintheunderarmarea.Reinforcethiscurvedseamwithtape,tworowsofstitching,shortenedstitches,orareinforcingstretchstitch.
Raglansleeveshaveaslantedseaminthefrontandtheback.Mostraglansleeveshaveaseamthatcurvesovertheshoulderandextendsthelengthofthesleeve.Thisseamshapestheshoulderinaroundedway.Insomepatternsdarts,insteadofseams,shapetheshoulders.Formorecomfortandbetterfit,stitchthesleeveandsideseambeforesettinginthesleeve.
Shapingaids,suchassleevepuffsandshoulderpads,areneededtocompletesomesleevetreatments.Sleevepuffsaresmallpadsthatsupportgatheredsleevecaps.Puffsliftgatherssothesleevehangsstraightandsmooth.
TipsforSewingSleeves
Patternmarkingssuchasnotches,dots,andshoulderseammarkshelptopositionset-insleeve.Morefabricmustbeeasedatthebackofthesleevethanatthefront.Nofabricshouldbeeasedintothearmholeatthetopofthesleevecapfor1"(2.5cm)atcenterdot.
Notchesonpatternpiecestellwhichwaysleeveandarmholeedgesshouldface.Doublenotchesindicatethebackofthesleeveandarmhole.Asinglenotchindicatesthefront.Marknotcheswith¼"(6mm)snipsintotheseamallowance.
HowtoSewaShirtSleeve(flatmethod)
Pinsleevetoarmhole,rightsidestogether,matchingnotchesandsmalldots.Pinongarmentside,easingsleevecaptofit.
Stitchsleevetoarmholewithgarmentsideup.Actionoffeedeasessleevetofitarmhole.
Pressseamawayfromsleeve.Trimgarmentseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)formockflat-fellseam.
Topstitchsleeveseamontherightsideofgarment¼"(6mm)fromtheseamline.
Edgestitchclosetoseamline.
Pinsideseamofgarmentandsleevetogether.Stitchinonecontinuousseam.Reinforceunderarmareawithshortstitches,orusemockflat-fellseam.
HowtoSewaSetinSleeve
Easestitchcapofsleeve(theareabetweenfrontandbacknotches)onrightside,slightlyinsideseamline.Easestitchsleevecapagain,3/8"(1cm)fromedge.
Stitchunderarmsleeveseam,rightsidestogether.Pressseamflat,thenpressseamopen.Usesleeveboardorseamrolltopreventimpressionofseamontopofsleeve.
Turnsleeverightsideout.Turngarmentinsideout.Insertsleeveintoarmhole,rightsidestogether,matchingnotches,smalldotmarkings,underarmseam,andshoulderline.Insertpinsonseamlineforbestcontrolofease.
Drawupbobbinthreadsofeasestitchinglinesuntilcapfitsarmhole.Distributefullnessevenly,leaving1"(2.5cm)flat(uneased)atshoulderseamattopofsleevecap.
Pinsleevetoarmholeatcloseintervals,usingmorepinsinfrontandbackwherethebulkoftheeaseislocated.
Checksleevefromrightsideforsmoothfitandcorrectdrape.Adjustifnecessary.Therecanbetinypleatsorpuckersinseamallowance,butnotinseamline.
Secureendsofeasestitchingthreadbymakingafigureeightovereachpinatfrontandbacknotches.
Stitchjustoutsideeasestitchingline,sleevesideup,startingatonenotch.Stitcharoundsleeve,paststartingpoint,toothernotch,reinforcingunderarmwithtworowsofstitching.Removepinsasyoucometothem.
Trimseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)betweennotchesatunderarmonly.Donottrimseamallowanceofsleevecap.Zigzagseamallowancestogether.
Pressseamallowanceofsleevecaponly,usingpressmittorendofsleeveboard.Donotpressintothesleeve.
CuffsLongsleevesonshirts,blouses,andlightweightjacketsoftenhavecuffswithbuttonedclosings.Inmanyways,sewingcuffsissimilartosewingcollars.Thetipsonpages135fortrimming,interfacing,andpressingcollarsapplytocuffs,too.
Applyinterfacingtohalfofaone-piececuff.Theinterfacedhalfofthecuffshowsontheoutsideofthefinishedsleeve.Thehalfwithoutinterfacingisfoldedtotheinsidetoformaself-facing.Interfaceonesectionofatwo-piececuff;thissectionbelongsontheoutsideofthesleeve.Theothercuffsectionformsthefacingontheinside.
Applycuffs,usingeithertopstitchingorhandfinishing.Topstitchingisusuallyfaster,becauseitisdonebymachine.Cuffswithouttopstitchingrequirehandfinishing,butnostitchesshowontheoutside.
Continuousboundplacketisaslitboundwithastripofself-fabric.Thebindingstripiscutonthelengthwisefabricgrainforstability.Whenthecuffisclosed,thisplacketishiddenfromview.
Shirt-styleplacketisabox-shapedsleeveopeningfinishedwithashapedfacing.Thefacingisfoldedandstitchedsotheedgesoftheplacketoverlapneatly.Adaptedfrommensweartailoring,thistypeofplacketisfoundonpatternswithtraditionaldetails.Whenthecuffisclosed,thepointedportionofthefacingshowsonashirt-styleplacket.
HowtoSewaContinuousBoundPlacket
Staystitchplacketonseamline.Useshortstitchesoneachsideofplacketpoint;takeonestitchacrosspoint.Slashtostitchatpoint.
Pressonebindingedgeunder¼"(6mm).Holdslashstraighttopinotherbindingedgetoplacket,rightsideofbindingtowrongsideofsleeve.
Stitchnexttosleevestaystitchingwith¼"(6mm)seamallowanceonplacket;usepresserfootasguide.Rawedgeslineupevenlyonlyatseamends.
Bringfoldedbindingedgeoverseam.Foldshouldbarelycoverseam.Edgestitchfoldthroughalllayersoffabric;press.
Lineupedgesofbindingonwrongsideofsleeve;stitchdiagonallyfromtopofbindingtokeepbindinginsidesleevewhencuffisfinished.
Pressbindingflatonunderlappingbackplacketedge.Pressbindingunderonoverlappingfrontplacketedge.Attachcuff(page133).
HowtoSewaShirt-stylePlacket
Pressunder¼"(6mm)seamallowancesonsidesofplacketfacing.Baste-markacrosstopofplacketopening.
Pressfacingsidesonfoldlines.Facingedgesshouldlineupwithmarkingforplacketopening.
Pressunderseamallowancesonpoint.Miterangledcornersbyfoldingseamallowanceacrosspointbeforefoldingsideedges.
Matchmarkingsonfacingandsleeveplacketopening,rightsideoffacingagainstwrongsideofsleeve;stitch.Slashto¼"(6mm)fromtop,thencliptocorners.
Pullfacingthroughopeningtorightsideofsleeve.Pressseamstowardplacketopening.Pressuptriangleattopofplacket.
Pinnarrowfacingedgetocoverplacketstitching;edgestitchinnerfoldoffacingthroughalllayers.
Foldothersideoffacingtocoverplacketstitching;pin.Edgestitchouterfoldofoverlapfacingtotopofopening.Pullthreadstoundersideandtie.
Arrangeoverlapsoedgesareflatandeven.Edgestitchindirectionofarrows,startingatloweredge,uparoundpoint,andacrossplacket.Securestitching.Attachcuff(opposite).
HowtoAttachaCuff
Foldcuffpatterninhalfandcutfusibleinterfacingfromfoldedpattern,eliminatingseamallowances.Fuseinterfacingtouppercuff.
Pressunderseamallowanceoninterfacededge.Foldcuffinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether;stitchends,openingoutpressedseamallowance.Trimandgradeseams.Pressseamsopen.Turncuffrightsideout.
Pinandstitchwrongsideofsleevetonon-interfacedsideofcuff,matchingmarkings.Besureendsofcuffareevenwithfinishedplacketedges.Donottrimseamallowances.
Wrapfreecuffsectionaroundplacketopeningtofrontofsleeveasfarasitwillgo.Therightsideofcuffisonrightsideofsleeve.Pinabout1"(2.5cm)fromplacketopening.
Stitchpinnedareaateachendofcuffexactlyonfirststitchingsofirstrowwillnotshowonoutside.Trimseamclosetostitchingtoeliminatebulk.
Turncuffrightsideout;press.Rightsideofcuffedgeisstitchedtosleeveforabout1"(2.5cm)nexttoplacketopening.
Edgestitchfoldededgeofcuffoverseam.Topstitch¼"(6mm)fromedgeofcuff.Foracuffthatisnottopstitched,attachtorightsideofsleeve,turntoinside,andslipstitchinplace.
CollarsCollarsareimportantdetailsworthyofcarefulsewing.Awell-madecollarcirclesyourneckwithoutripplingorpullingandkeepsitsneatappearancethroughrepeatedcleanings.Pointedtipsshouldmatch.Edgesshouldbesmoothandflat.
Interfacing,usuallycutfromthecollarpatternpiece,addsshape,support,andstability.Mostcollarstylesbenefitfromtheslightlyfirmfinishprovidedbyfusibleinterfacings.Selectthespecialcrisptypeoffusibleinterfacingsuitableformen’sshirtsifyouareworkingwithclassicshirtingfabricssuchasoxfordclothorbroadcloth.Ifyourfabricissoftordelicate,likechallisorcrepedechine,choosealightweightfusiblethatbondsatlowirontemperatures.
Convertiblecollarlookssimilartothenotchedcollarandlapelsonatailoredblazer.Thefrontfacingsfoldbacktoformthelapels.Thiscollarcanbewornopenorclosed.Thetopbuttonisusuallyomittedoncasualwear.
Shirtcollarwithastandcomesfrommensweartraditions.Therearetwoseparatesections:thecollar,andthestandbetweencollarandneckline.Insomepatternsthestandisanextensionofthecollarsection.Thiseliminatesoneseamandisfastertosew,butthesewingmethodsforbothversionsaresimilar.Foraprofessionallook,topstitchcollaredgesandstandseamsclosetotheedge.
Standingcollarmaybeshapedorcutdoubledepthandfoldedalongitslengthtoformaself-facing.
TipsforSewingCollars
Trimouteredgesofundercollarascant1/8"(3mm)sotheseamrollstowardtheundersideofthecollarwhenstitchedandturned.Pinrightsidesofcollarandundercollartogetherwithouteredgeseven.
Presscollarseamopenonapointpresser;turncollarrightsideout.Gentlypushcollarpointsoutwithapointturner.Presscollarflat,allowingtheseamtorollslightlytowardtheundercollar.
Rollcollarintoitsfinishedpositionandpin.Ifnecessary,trimrawedgeofundercollarsoitisevenwithuppercollaredge.Thismakesthecollarrollproperlywhenitissewninplace.
HowtoSewaPointedCollar(nonfusibleinterfacing)
Trimcornersofinterfacingdiagonallyjustinsideseamline.Machine-basteinterfacingtowrongsideofuppercollar,½"(1.3cm)fromedge.Triminterfacingclosetostitching.
Trimascant1/8"(3mm)fromouteredgesofundercollar.Thiskeepsundercollarfromrollingtorightsideaftercollarisstitchedtotheneckline.Pinrightsidesofcollarandundercollartogetherwithouteredgeseven.
Stitchonseamline,takingoneortwoshortstitchesdiagonallyacrosseachcornerinsteadofmakingasharppivot.Thismakesaneaterpointwhenthecollaristurned.
Trimcorners,firstacrossthepoint,closetostitching,thenatanangletotheseamoneachsideofthepoint.
Gradeseamallowancesbytrimmingundercollarseamallowanceto1/8"(3mm)andcollarto¼"(6mm).
Pressseamopenonapointpresser.Turncollarrightsideout.
Pushpointsoutgentlywithapointturner.
Presscollarflat,rollingseamslightlytotheundersidesoitwillnotshowonfinishedcollar.
HowtoSewaRoundCollar(fusibleinterfacing)
Trimseamallowancesfromfusibleinterfacingandfusetowrongsideofuppercollar,followingmanufacturer’sinstructionsonpackage.
Trimscant1/8"(3mm)fromoutsideedgeofundercollar,asforpointedcollar(opposite).Stitchrightsidesofcollarandfacingtogether,usingshorterstitchesoncurves.
Trimseamallowancesclosetostitchingline,usingpinkingshears.Or,gradeandclipseamallowances.Pressseamopen,eventhoughseamisenclosed.Thisflattensstitchinglineandmakescollareasiertoturn.
HowtoLineaFacingwithInterfacing
Stitchfusibleinterfacingtofacing,rightsidestogether,using¼"(6mm)seamallowance;nonadhesivesideofinterfacingisrightside.Clipcurves.
Pressseamawayfromfacing.Topreventinterfacingfromfusingtoironingboard,becarefulthattheedgeoftheirondoesnotgobeyondtheseamallowance.
Foldinterfacingonseamline.Finger-pressfold,andpositioninterfacingonwrongsideoffacing.Fuseinterfacingtofacing.Attachfacingtogarment.
HowtoAttachaConvertibleCollar
Staystitchuppercollarneckseambeforestitchingtoundercollar.Clipcollarseamallowancetostay-stitchingatshouldermarks.Pressseamallowancetowrongsidebetweenclips.
Interfacefrontfacingsuptofoldline,usinglinedfacingtechnique(page133)orfinishingfacingedgeswithfinishappropriatetofabric.Turnunderfacingseamallowancesatshoulderseams;press.
Stitchshoulderseams.Staystitchgarmentneckedgeonseamline.Clipseamallowanceatfrequentintervals,stoppingshortofstaystitching.Stitchupperandundercollars.Turnrightsideout,andpress.
Pinundercollaronlytogarmentbetweenshoulderseams.Keepcollarneckedgefree.Pinuppercollarandundercollartofrontneckedge,matchingmarkings.
Foldfrontfacingsovercollar.Pinthroughalllayers.Stitchnecklineseam,rightsideofgarmentup;donotcatchfoldededgeofcollarinstitching.Trimacrosscorners,andgradeseam;turnfacingsrightsideout.
Bringfoldededgeofuppercollaroverneckseam,andedgestitchorslipstitchinplace.Slipstitchfacingstoshoulderseamallowances.
HowtoAttachaShirtCollarwithaStand
Topstitchouteredgeofthecollar .Interfacebothstandsections .Finishgarment .
Pinthestandsections,rightsidestogether,withshirtsandwichedbetweenlayers.
Stitchstandtoneckseam.Stop5/8"(1.5cm)fromstandedges(arrow).Trimandgradeseam.
Rollshirtfrontsoutoftheway.Stitchcurvefromneckseamtocollarplacementmark.
Cliptoseamlineatmarking.Trimcurve;clipseams.
Turnstandrightsideout.
Stitchcollartorightsideofoutsidestand,withundercollarnexttostand.Trimandgradeseam;pressseamtowardstand.
Pressunderseamallowanceofinsidestand;trimto¼"(6mm).Pinpressededgeofstandtocoverstitchingline.
Edgestitcharoundstandthroughallfabriclayers.
Waistbands
Becauseawaistbandsupportstheentiregarment,itmustbeastrongandsturdyouteredgefinish.Abasicwaistbandforskirtsandpantsiscutonthelengthwisegrainofthefabricwherethereistheleastamountofstretch.Thewaistbandisstabilizedwithinterfacing,doubledandsewntothewaistlineedge,enclosingtheseamallowance.
Mostwaistbandscallforaturned-underedgeasafinishontheinside.Afaster,lessbulkymethodrequireschangingthepatternlayoutsothewaistbandpatterniscutwithonelongedgeontheselvage.Becausetheselvagedoesnotravel,aturned-underedgeisnotnecessary.Thismethodcanbestitchedentirelybymachine.Tofurthereliminatebulk,facewaistbandsofheavyfabricswithalightweightfabricorgrosgrainribbon.
Cutawaistbandlongenoughforadequateeaseandoverlapallowance.Thelengthshouldequalyourwaistmeasurementplus2¾"(7cm).Theextraamountincludes½"(1.3cm)forease,1¼"(3.2cm)forseamallowances,and1"(2.5cm)foroverlap.Thewidthshouldbetwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus1¼"(3.2cm)forseamallowances.
HowtoSewaWaistband(selvagemethod)
Cutwaistbandonthelengthwisegrain,placingthecuttinglineofonelongedgeontheselvage.
Cutlengthofpurchasedfusiblewaistbandinterfacingaccordingtopattern,cuttingoffendsatstitchinglinesointerfacingdoesnotextendintoseamallowances.
Fuseinterfacingtowaistband,withwidersideofinterfacingtowardselvageedge.Interfacingshouldbeplacedsothereisa5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceonthenotchededge(seamallowanceonselvageedgewillbenarrower).
Pinrightsideofnotchededgeofwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,matchingnotches.Stitcha5/8"(1.5cm)seam.
Turnwaistbandup.Pressseamallowancetowardwaistband.
Gradetheseamallowancesto¼"(6mm)onthewaistbandand1/8"(3mm)onthegarmenttoeliminatebulk.
Foldwaistbandoninterfacingcenterfoldlinesowaistbandiswrongsideout.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seamoneachend.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm).Diagonallytrimcorners.
Turnwaistbandrightsideout. Onunderlapside,diagonallyclipfromselvageedgetocorner(arrow). Tuckseamallowance,fromedgeofunderlaptoendofclip,upintowaistband.Foldclippedcornerunderatanangle.
Pinselvageedgeofwaistbandinplace.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchofwaistlineseamortopstitch¼"(6mm)abovetheseam,catchingselvageedgeinstitching.Edgestitchloweredgeofunderlap(arrow)whenusingstitch-in-ditchmethod.
HemsUnlessahemisdecorative,itshouldbevirtuallyinvisiblefromtherightside.Usethreadthesameshadeas,orslightlydarkerthan,yourfabric.
Whenhemmingbyhand,pickuponlyoneortwothreadsfromtheouterfabricineachstitch.Donotpullthethreadtootightduringstitching.Thiscausesthehemtolookpuckeredorlumpy.Presscarefully;overpressingcreatesaridgealongtheedgeofthehem.
Thewidthofthehemisdeterminedbythefabricandgarmentstyle.Ahemallowanceofupto3"(7.5cm)maybegivenforastraightgarment;1½"to2"(3.8to5cm)foraflaredone.Sheerfabrics,nomatterwhatthestyle,areusuallyfinishedwithanarrow,rolledhem.Anarrowhemonsoftknitshelpskeepthemfromsagging.Machine-stitchedandtopstitchedhemsarefastandpermanent.
Beforehemming,letthegarmenthangfor24hours,especiallyifithasabiasorcircularhem.Trythegarmentonovertheundergarmentsyouwillwearwithit.Checktobesureitfitsandhangscorrectly.Wearshoesandabeltifthegarmentistobebelted.
Hemlinesareusuallymarkedwiththehelpofasecondpersonusingapinmarkeroryardstick.Markthehemlinewithpinsorchalkallaroundthegarment,makingsurethedistancefromthefloortothehemlineremainsequal.Standinanormalpositionandhavethehelpermovearoundthehem.Pinhemup,andtryonthegarmentinfrontofafull-lengthmirrortodoublecheckthatitisparalleltothefloor.
Pantshemscannotbemarkedfromthefloorup,asskirtsanddressesare.Forstandard-lengthpants,thebottomofthepantslegshouldrestontheshoeinfrontandslopedownslightlytowardtheback.Pinupthehemonbothlegs,andtryoninfrontofamirrortocheckthelength.
Beforestitching,finishtherawedgesofthehemtokeepthefabricfromravelingandtoprovideananchorforthehemmingstitch.Selectthehemfinish(opposite)andstitchthatisappropriatetothefabricandthegarment.
Blindstitchingbymachinemakesafast,sturdyhemonwovenandknitfabrics.Manysewingmachineshavethisbuilt-institch.Aspecialfootorstitchingguidemakesblindstitchingeasy.
Seambindingorlaceprovidesafinishsuitableforfabricsthatravel,suchaswool,tweed,orlinen.Lapseambinding¼"(6mm)overthehemedgeontherightsideofthefabric.Edgestitchthebindinginplace,overlappingendsataseamline.Usewovenseambindingforstraighthems,stretchlaceforcurvedhemsandknits.Hemlight-tomedium-weightfabricswiththecatchstitch,bulkyfabricswiththeblindstitch.
HemFinishesandStitches
Topstitchedhemfinishestherawedgeandhemsthegarmentallinonestep.Turnuphem1½"(3.8cm)andpininplace.Forravellyfabrics,pinkorturnunderrawedge.Onrightside,topstitch1"(2.5cm)fromfoldededge.Above,asecondrowoftopstitchingisappliedasadesigndetail.
Twin-needlestitchedhemissuitableforknitsandcasualstyles.Thetwinneedleproducestwocloselyspacedparallellinesofstitchingontherightsideandazigzag-typestitchonthewrongside.Turnhemupdesiredamountandstitchthroughbothlayersfromrightside,usingseamguide.Trimexcesshemallowanceafterstitching.
Zigzagfinishisappropriateforknitsandfabricsthatravel,becausethestitchgiveswiththefabric.Stitchclosetorawedgewithzigzagstitchofmediumwidthandlength.Trimclosetostitching.Hemwithablindstitch,blindcatchstitch,ormachineblindstitch.
Turnedandstitchedfinishisappropriateforwovenlightweightfabrics.Turnrawedgeunder¼"(6mm).Stitchneartheedgeofthefold.Hemusingslipstitchorblindstitch.
Boundhemfinishisappropriateforheavywoolensandfabricsthatraveleasily.Finishrawedgeofhemindouble-foldbiastapeorHongKongfinish(page113).Hemwithblindstitchorblindcatchstitch.Becarefulnottopullhemmingthreadtootightorfabricwillpucker.
Pinkedandfusedhemisafastandeasyfinishforlightweightwovenfabrics.Applyafusiblewebstripbetweenthehemandthegarment.Steampress,followingmanufacturer’sinstructions.
HowtoTurnUpaHem
Markgarmentanevendistancefromthefloorusingpinsorchalk,andayardstickorskirtmarker.Haveyourhelpermovearoundyousoyoudonotneedtoshiftpositionorposture.Placemarksevery2"(5cm).
Trimseamallowancesinhembyhalftoreducebulk.Trimseamsfrombottomofgarmenttohemstitchinglineonly.
Foldhemupalongmarkedline,insertingpinsatrightanglestothefoldatregularintervals.Tryongarmenttochecklength.
Hand-baste¼"(6mm)fromfoldededge.Pressedgelightly,easinghemtofitgarment.
Measureandmarkthedesiredhemdepth,adding¼"(6mm)foredgefinish.Workonironingboardortable,usingaseamgaugetoensureevenmarking.
Trimexcesshemallowancealongmarkings.Finishrawedgeaccordingtofabrictype(page143).Pinfinishededgetogarment,matchingseamsandcenterlines.
HowtoSewaCurvedHem
Preparehemasshownopposite,butdonotfinishrawedge.Curvedhemshaveextrafullnesswhichmustbeeasedtofitgarment.Loosenmachinetensionandeasestitch¼"(6mm)fromedge,stoppingandstartingataseamline.
Drawupbobbinthreadbypullingupaloopwithapinatintervals,easingfullnesstosmoothlyfitgarmentshape.Donotdrawhemintoomuch,oritwillpullagainstgarmentwhenfinished.Presshemoverapressmitttosmoothoutsomefullness.
Finishrawedgeusingzigzagstitching,biastape,seambinding,orpinking.Pinhemedgetogarment,matchingseamsandcenterlines.Hemusingmachineblindstitchorappropriatehandhemmingstitch.
HowtoMachineBlindstitch
Preparehemlineasshown,opposite.Hand-bastehemtogarment,¼"(6mm)fromrawedge.Adjustmachinetoblindstitchsettingandattachblindstitchfoot.Selectzigzagwidthandstitchlength,followingguidelinesinyourmachinemanual.
Placehemallowancefacedownoverfeedofmachine.Foldbulkofgarmentbacktobastingline.Thesoftfoldshouldrestagainsttherightpartofthefoot(arrow).Somemachinesusearegularzigzagfootwithablindstitchhemmingguideattached.
Stitchalonghemclosetothefold,catchinggarmentonlyinzigzagstitch.Whilestitching,guidehemedgeinastraightlineandfeedsoftfoldagainsttherightpartofthehemmingfootortheedgeoftheguide.Openouthemandpressflat.
ThreeHemsUsingSergerwithConventionalMachine
Overedgedandblindstitchedhem.Markhemallowance,andgradeseamsinhemarea.Sergehemedge.Foldhemasforblindhem,step2,page145.Pinhemintoposition,andblindstitch,usingaconventionalmachine,orbyhand.
Overedgedandtopstitchedhem.
Sergehemedge.Turnuphem;press.Topstitchfromrightsideofgarment,usingconventionalmachine.Twinneedlemaybeusedfortopstitching.
Easedhem.Easehemfullnessbypullingupneedlethread.Oradjustdifferentialfeed,ifavailable,totheeasesetting.Pinhemintoposition;blindstitch,usingaconventionalmachine,orbyhand.
HowtoOverlockaBlindHem
Adjustmachineforflatlockstitch;useblindhemfoot,ifavailable.Setstitchlengthat4mm.Folduphem;press.Onhemsideofgarment,placepinswiththeheadstowardbodyofgarment.
Foldgarmentoverhemallowance,withhemedgeextending¼"(6mm)beyondfold.Stitchonextendedhemedge,withneedlebarelycatchingfold;removepinsasyoucometothem.
Openhem,andpullfabricflat.Ladderofstitchesshowsonrightsideoflightweightfabrics,butisinvisibleonheaviertexturedfabrics.
HowtoSewaCoverStitchHem
Splithem.Adjustmachineforcoverstitch.Pressuphem.Placefabricunderraisedpresserfoot,rightsideup,withfoldalignedtodesiredneedleplateguideline.Holdingthreads,turnhandwheeluntilneedlesenterfabricatbeginningofhem.Stitchtofabricedgeatendofhem;raiseneedlesandpresserfoot.Holdingstitchesfirmly,gentlypullthreadsback.Cutthreads,leavingtail;knot.Securetails,usingloopturnerorneedle.
Circularhem.Adjustmachineandstitchhemasforsplithem,left;startatbackorsideseam,andlapfirststitchesabout1"(2.5cm).Raiseneedlesandpresserfoot.Holdstitchesbehindfootfirmly;gentlypullfabricslightlyback,andthentoleft.Cutthreadtails.Pulloutloosethreads;securethreads,usingliquidfraypreventerorknotsasdesired.Removeextraneedlethreadfromsurfaceofneedleplate.
HowtoFlatlockaSportHem
Adjustmachineforflatlockstitch.Folduphem,andpress.Foldup,andpressagain,enclosingrawedge;flatlockonfold,takingcaretocatchhemedgeinstitches.
Openhem,andpullfabricflat.Lightlypress.Decorativeloopsareontherightsideofgarment.
HowtoFlatlockaFringedHem
Markplacementline,bypullingathreadorusingamarkingpen,toindicatedepthoffringe.Pressacreaseonmarkedline.Adjustsergerforflatlockstitch.Stitchonfold.
Cutfabricuptostitchesongrainevery3"(7.5cm).Removethreadstocreatefringe.Ifflatlockingcorners,applyliquidfraypreventertointersectingstitches,anduseseamrippertoremovestitchesinfringearea.
EasyEdgesApulloverblousecanbeedge-finishedquicklybymachine.Abiasnecklinefacingwithoverlappedendsmakesaneatnecklinefinish,andnarrowmachine-stitchedhemsfinishthesleevesandloweredgesoftheblouse.
Tomakethebiasfacing,cuta1¼"(3.2cm)biasstripabout2"(5cm)longerthantheneckopening,toallowforoverlap.
Anarrowmachine-stitchedhemisnonbulky,makingitsuitableforlightweightorsilkyfabrics.Itcanalsobeusedforhemsongarmentsmadefromsatin,taffeta,ororganza.Horsehairbraidcanbeaddedtothisnarrowhemforextrabody.
Beforestitchingthehem,trimhemallowanceto3/8"(1cm).
HowtoSewaBiasNecklineFacing
Cutbiasfacing,opposite.Foldstripinhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether;press.Trimgarmentseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).Placestriponrightsideofgarment,rawedgeseven,withendofstrip1"(2.5cm)fromcenterback.
Taperendofstripintoseamallowance;stitcharoundneckline.Overlapends,taperingotherendintoseamallowance.
Trimseamallowances.Pressstripawayfromgarment;thenpressittoinsideofgarment.Edgestitcharoundnecklinefromrightside.
HowtoSewaNarrowHem
Machine-stitch¼"(6mm)fromhemedge.Turnedgetowrongsideonstitchingline;pressfold.
Stitch,usingshortstitchlength,closetofold.Trimexcessfabricclosetostitching,usingappliquéscissors.Presstoremovefullness,iffabrichasstretched.
Turnhemedgetowrongside,enclosingrawedge.Stitchanevendistancefromedge.
Turnhemedgetowrongside,enclosingrawedge.Sliphorsehairbraidintofoldtoaddbodytohem.Stitchanevendistancefromedge.
PocketsPocketsvaryinpurposefrompracticaltodecorative.Practicalpocketsusuallyaresimpleinstyle.Yettheshape,decorativetrim,orpositionofapocketcanmakeitafashionfocus.Tobeuseful,however,pocketsshouldfallcomfortablywithinhand’sreach,evenifthismeansadjustingthepattern.
Chooseasturdy,firmlywovenfabricforhiddenpocketsectionsofin-seamandslantedpocketstyles.Thepocketislesslikelytowearoutifcutfromfabricsuchascottontwillordrillcloth.Tailorsusepocketing,aspeciallightweighttwill,forpocketsonpantsandjackets.Adurableliningfabricisalsoagoodchoice.
Patchpocketsaresewntotheoutsideofagarment.Pocketedgesshouldbeneat,smooth,andsecurelyapplied.Theymaybeinterfacedforstability,lined,orself-linedontailoredlinedgarments.
In-seampocketsarehiddenpockets.Fromtheoutsideofagarmenttheylooklikeanopeninginaseam.
Slantedpocketsopendiagonallyfromthewaisttothesidesofpantsandskirts.
Weltpocketsarehiddenpocketswithavisibleslit.Theymayhaveasingleordoubleweltandaresometimescoveredwithaflap.
PATCHPOCKETS
Asoutsidedetails,patchpocketsaddfashiondetailtoagarment.Positionthemwheretheylookbestonyourfigure.Trypocketsabove,below,orbesidetheplacementlineonthepatterntofindthemostflatteringpositionthatwillavoidcallingattentiontofullbustorhips.
Onceyou’vedeterminedthepositionforpockets,doublechecktheplacementbeforeattachingthem.Measurecarefullysopocketsarepreciselyaligned.Thisstepisespeciallyimportantwhenpocketsaresymmetricalbecauseaminorpatternadjustmentcanaffectpocketalignment.
Patchpocketsmaybeappliedbyhandormachinestitching.Choosethemachinemethodforcasualgarments,asatime-savingtechnique,andforthemostsecureapplication.Ifyoupreferafine,invisiblefinish,sewthepocketsinplacebyhand.
Interfacepatchpocketswithalightweightfusibleinterfacingforsmoothshapeandlongerwear.Cuttheinterfacingtothehemfoldatthepockettopandtotheseamlineatthesidesandbottomofthepocket.Avoidatoo-stiffpocketbycuttingwoveninterfacingsonthetruebiasgrain.
Reinforcepatchpocketsattheuppercorners.Stitchsmalltrianglesonman-tailoredshirtsandsportswear.Usefinezigzagstitchesforbartacksonchildren’sclothesandruggedoutdoorwear.Topstitchingmaybeaddedforfurtherreinforcement.
HowtoSewaPatchPocketwithSquareCorners
Finishupperedgeofpocket.Foldhemtooutside.Pullhemedges1/8"(3mm)beyondpocketsoseamswillrolltowardinside.Stitchonseamline.Trimcornersdiagonally;gradeseams.
Turnhemrightsideout,usingpointturnertopushoutcorners.Pressseamallowancesunderonsidesandloweredges.
Foldseamallowancediagonallyacrosslowercornerssopressedfoldlinesmatch.Pressdiagonalfolds,thentrimto¼"(6mm).
Pressseamallowanceagaintoinside,formingmiteratcorners.Trimremainingseamallowances.Edgestitchortopstitchifdesired.
HowtoSewaPatchPocketwithRoundedCorners
Stitchupperhemasforpatchpocket,page151,step1.Alsoeasestitcharoundcorners,justinsideseamline.
Pressseamallowancetoinsideofpocket.Pullthreadatcornerstitchestoeaseinextraseamallowanceevenly.
Trimentireseamallowanceto¼"(6mm).Ifnecessary,notchoutfullnessatcornercurvestomakeseamallowancelieflat.
HowtoSewaSelf-linedPatchPocket
Foldpocketpatternonhemline.Placepatternfoldonfabricfold,andcutdoublepocket.Fuseinterfacingononehalfofpocket.
Pinrightsidestogether,pullingnon-interfacedside1/8"(3mm)beyondedge.Stitchseam;trimandnotch.Cut1"(2.5cm)biasslitonnon-interfacedsideofpocket.
Turnpockettorightsidethroughslit.Pressedges,rollingseamtosidewithslitinit.Closeslitwithfusibleinterfacinginsertedadhesivesideup.
HowtoSewaLinedPatchPocket
Foldhemdownonpocketpattern.Markliningcuttingline½"(1.3cm)fromupperedgeofpattern(arrow).Cutlining1/8"(3mm)smalleronsidesandbottom.
Stitchtopofliningtotopofpocket,rightsidestogether,with¼"(6mm)seam.Leaveopeningforturningatcenterofseam(arrows).Pressseamopen.
Bringloweredgeofliningandpockettogether.Stitchsideandloweredges.Trimseamsandcorners;notchfullnessfromcurvesofroundedpockets.
Turnpocketrightsideoutthroughopeninginseam.Presspocketfromliningside,rollingseamtowardbackofpocket.
Slipstitchseamopeningclosed.
HowtoApplyaPatchPocketbyMachine
Transferpocketplacementlinetorightsideofgarmentwithmachinebasting.
Usebastingtape,pins,orgluetoholdpocketinplaceoverthebaste-markedline.
Edgestitchpockettogarment.Reinforceuppercornerswithstitchedtrianglesorbartacks.
HowtoApplyaPatchPocketbyHand
Topstitchpocketbeforeapplyingpockettogarment.Baste-markpocketplacementlineasinmachinemethodabove,step1.
Hand-bastepocketinposition,stitchingalongpocketedgetouseasguidelineonwrongside.
Backstitchpocketinplace,workingfrominsideofgarment.Stitchingshouldnotshowfromrightside.
IN-SEAMPOCKETS
Therearethreewaysofcuttingin-seampockets:cuttingthepocketaspartofthegarment,cuttingaseparatepocket,andcuttingagarmentextensionplusaseparatepocket.
Sewinganin-seampocketthatispartofthegarmenteliminatesoneseambutcancreateunwantedbulkunlessthegarmentfabricislightweight.Cuttingaseparatepocketreducesbulkbecauseyoucanusealiningfabric.Thethirdmethod,usinganextension,reducesbulkandpreventsthepocketliningfromshowingonthecurveofthehip.Topreventthepocketopeningfromstretchingwhenpocketsarecutseparately,stitchnarrowtwillorseamtapeintheseamallowanceofthefrontpocket.
Topstitchinghelpstoholdthepocketinplaceandflattensanybulkattheseam,givingaslimmerlineinthehiparea.
HowtoSewanIn-SeamPocket
Edgestitchtapeonwrongsideinseamallowanceoffrontpocketextension.Stitchpocketstofrontandbackextensions.Trimseamto¼"(6mm).Zigzagedgestogether;presstowardpocket.
Pingarmentfronttogarmentback;machine-bastepocketopeningclosed.Stitchpocketandgarmentseamaboveandbelowpocketopening.Useshortreinforcementstitches,andbackstitchatopening.
Stitcharoundpocket,endingatsideseam.Clipseamaboveandbelowextensiononbackgarmentsectiononly,soseamcanbepressedopen.
Pressgarmentseamopenaboveandbelowclips.Presspockettowardgarmentfront.Finishrawedgesofpockettogether.Removebastingstitches.
SLANTEDPOCKETS
Slantedpocketsareformedfromtwopatternpieces:thepocketandthegarmentsidefront.Thesidefrontfillsinthehipareaofthegarmentabovethepocketopeningandcompletestheinsideofthepocket.Thepocketpatterncanbecutfromliningfabrictominimizebulkbecausethepocketishiddenontheinside.
HowtoSewaSlantedPocket
Cut2"(5cm)stripofsew-ininterfacingtomatchshapeofcurvedpocketedges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromedgeonwrongside.Triminterfacing.Ifedgeisstraight,insteadofinterfacingstitchseamtapeoverpocketseamlinetostabilizebiasgrainline.
Stitchpockettogarmentfront,rightsidestogether.Trimseam,gradingsopocketseamallowanceisnarrower.Clipcurves.
Pressseamtowardpocket.Ifpocketwillnotbetopstitched,understitchseamonpocketsidetopreventpocketfromrollingtorightside.
Foldpockettoinside.Presspocketedge,rollingseamtowardpocket.Topstitchoredgestitchedgeofpocketifithasnotbeenunderstitched.
Stitchsidefrontofgarmenttopocket.Finishrawedgeswithzigzagstitchesoranotheredgefinish(pages110and111).
Bastepockettogarmentatsideseamandatwaistseam.Usepatternmarkingstolineupfabriclayers.Pocketshouldlieflatwithoutripples.
WELTPOCKETS
Doubleweltpocketslooklikelargeboundbuttonholes.Awelt,whichisanarrow,foldedstripofgarmentfabric,finisheseachedgeofthepocketopening.Thepocket,cutfromaliningfabric,extendsfromtheweltsontheinsideofthegarment.
Makingweltpocketsisanexperttailoringtechniquethatrequiresprecisemarking,cutting,andstitching.Beforestarting,carefullycheckthepocketposition.Onceyouhavestartedmakingthepocket,recheckthepocketpositionbeforeslashingthewelt.Inthephotos,thewrongsideofthegarmenthasbeenbackedwithfusibleinterfacing.
HowtoCutandPrepareaPocketLining
Cutthefollowingpocketparts7"×3"(18×7.5cm)forfinished5"
(12.5cm)welt:apocketstay,fromnonwovensew-ininterfacing;
weltand pocketfacing,fromfashionfabric; interfacing,from
weftinsertionfusible.Cutlining 7"×12"to15"(18×30.5to38cm).
Fuseinterfacingtowrongsideofwelt.Placewelt ,rightsideup,ononeedgeofpocketlining.Zigzaginneredgeofwelttolining.
Machine-basteouteredgeofwelttolining.Stitchpocketfacing tootheredgeofliningasforwelt.Upperinterfacedpartofliningwillbewelt.Lowernon-interfacedpartwillbeinsideofpocket.
HowtoSewaWeltPocket
Markpocketplacementlineonwrongsideofgarment.Markcenterofstay.Drawpocketstitchingboxwithlines¼"(6mm)fromcenterline.Markendswithshortverticallines5"(12.5cm)apart,1"(2.5cm)fromendsofstay.
Positionstayonwrongsideatpocketplacementmarking.Sewaroundentirebox,usingsmallstitchesandbeginningononelongside.Thistransferspocketstitchingboxtorightside.Donotbackstitch.
Pinrightsideofwelt/pocketsectiontorightsideofgarment,centeringweltoverbaste-markedpocketstitchingbox.
Stitchlongsidesonlyofpocketstitchingbox,workingfromwrongsideofgarment.Stopexactlyatendmarksonbox,backstitchingtosecurethreads.(Presserfoothasbeenremovedtoshowwherestitchingends.)
Machine-basteexactly¼"(6mm)fromeachlongsideofpocketstitchingbox,workingfromwrongsideofgarment.Usewidthofpresserfootasstitchingguide.
Presswelt/pocketsectionup,workingfromrightsideofgarment.Pressfirmlytocreateneat,flatfold.Pin.Lowerlineofmachinebastingisinsidethisfold.
Stitchonlowerlonglineofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment.Stopexactlyatendmarks(arrow);backstitchtosecurethreads.Thisformslowerwelt.
Presswelt/pocketsectiondown.Upperlineofmachinebastingisinsidefold.
Stitchonupperlonglineofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment;backstitchtosecurethreads.Thisformsupperwelt.
Slashweltbycuttingthroughcenterofweltbetweenstitchingrows.Donotcutintogarment.Removebastestitchingfromupperandlowerwelt.
Cutthroughcenterofpocketstitchingboxfromwrongsideofgarment.Stop5/8"(1.5cm)fromeachend,thencutdiagonallytoeachcorner,formingtriangles.Becarefultocutgarmentfabriconly.
Turnweltsandpockettowrongsidebypullingthemthroughpocketopening.Makesuretrianglesarepulledthroughandfoldedflatbetweenweltsandpocketstay.Press.
Foldpocketupsopocketfacingcoverswelts.Pinfacingtotopofwelt.
Stitchintheditchofupperweltfromrightsideofgarment,usingzipperfoot.Stitchthroughalllayers.Thisalsosecurespocketliningtowelt.
Foldgarmentbackoutofthewaytoprepareforstitchingpocketsideseams.
Stitchpocketsideseams,usingzipperfoot;stitchclosetofoldoftrianglesatendsofpocketopening.
Presspocketliningsoitliesflat.
Whipstitchedgesofupperandlowerweltstogethertoholdpocketopeninginplacewhileyousewtheremainderofgarment.
ClosuresZippers,buttons,snaps,andhooksandeyesareusuallymeanttobeasinconspicuousaspossible,butaresometimesusedasdecorativedetails.Astylishbutton,colorfulseparatingzipper,orpearlizedgrippersnapcanmakeadefinitefashionstatement.
Selecttheclosureaccordingtothestyleofgarmentandamountofstrainthatwillbeputontheopening.Forexample,aheavy-dutyhookandeyeclosure(opposite)canbetterwithstandthestrainonapantswaistbandthanordinaryhooksandeyes.Thebackofthepatternenvelopespecifiesthetypeandsizeofclosurestopurchase.
Becauseclosuresareunderstrain,itisimportanttoreinforcethegarmentareawheretheyareplaced.Seamallowancesorfacingsprovidelightreinforcement.Otherclosureareasshouldbereinforcedwithinterfacing.
Forsewingonbuttons,snaps,andhooksandeyes,useanall-purposethread,andsharpsorcrewelneedles.Forheavyweightfabricsorforclosuresthatareunderconsiderablestrain,useheavy-duty,ortopstitchingandbuttonholetwistthread.
HOOKSANDEYES
Hooksandeyesarestrongclosuresandcomeinseveraltypes.Regular,general-purposehooksandeyesareavailableinsizes0(fine)to3(heavy),inblackornickelfinishes.Theyhaveeitherstraightorroundeyes.Straighteyesareusedwheregarmentedgesoverlap,suchasonawaistband.Roundeyesareusedwheretwoedgesmeet,suchasatthenecklineaboveacenteredzipper.Threadloops(opposite)canbeusedinplaceofroundmetaleyesondelicatefabricsorinlocationswheremetaleyeswouldbetooconspicuous.Buttonloopsandbeltcarriersaremadeusingthesametechnique,startingwithlongerfoundationstitches.
Heavy-dutyhooksandeyesarestrongerthanregularhooksandeyes,towithstandgreaterstrain.Availableinblackornickelfinishes,theyareusedonlyforlappedareas.Large,plain,orcoveredhooksandeyesareavailableforcoatsandjackets.Theseareattractiveenoughtobevisibleandstrongenoughtoholdheavyfabric.
HowtoAttachWaistbandHooksandEyes
Positionheavy-dutyhookonundersideofwaistbandoverlap,about1/8"(3mm)frominsideedge.Tackhookinplacewiththreeorfourstitchesthrougheachhole.Donotstitchthroughtorightsideofgarment.
Laphooksideoverunderlaptomarkpositionofeye.Insertstraightpinsthroughholestomarkposition.Tackinplacewithfourstitchesineachhole.
Roundhookandeyeisusedforwaistbandswhichdonotoverlap.Positionhookasforheavy-dutyhook.Tackthroughbothholesandatendofhook.Positioneyesoitextendsslightlyoverinsideedgeoffabric(garment’sedgesshouldbutttogether).Tackinplace.
HowtoMakeThreadEyes
Insertneedlewithdoublestrandofthreadatedgeoffabric.Taketwofoundationstitchesthedesiredlengthoftheeye.Thesearetheanchoronwhichblanketstitchisworked.
Workblanketstitchbybringingeyeofneedleunderfoundationstitchesandthroughtheloop.
Bringneedlethroughloop,pullinglooptightagainstfoundationstitches.Workblanketstitchalongentirelengthoffoundationstitches.
Securestitchingbytakingtwosmallbackstitches.Trimthreads.
BUTTONHOLES
Thestandardsofawell-madebuttonholeare:
Widthisappropriatetotheweightofthefabricandsizeofthebuttonhole.
Endsarebar-tackedtopreventbuttonholefromtearingunderstress.
Stitchesareevenlyspacedoneachsideofthebuttonhole.
Buttonholeis1/8"(3mm)longerthanthebutton.
Stitchesoneachsidearefarenoughapartsothatthebuttonholecanbecutopenwithoutcuttingthestitches.
Endshavenotbeencutopenaccidentally.
Interfacingsupportingthebuttonholematchesthefashionfabricandisnotobviousonthecutedges.
Buttonholeison-grain;verticalbuttonholesareperfectlyparalleltothegarmentedge,horizontalbuttonholesareatperfectrightanglestotheedge.
Horizontalbuttonholesarethemostsecure,becausetheyarenotasapttoletbuttonsslipout.Thesebuttonholesalsoabsorbanypullagainsttheclosurewithlittle,ifany,distortion.Horizontalbuttonholesshouldextend1/8"(3mm)beyondthebuttonplacementline,towardtheedgeofthegarment.Besurethatthespacefromthecenterlinetothefinishededgeofthegarmentisatleastthree-fourthsthediameterofthe
button.Withthisspacing,thebuttonwillnotextendbeyondtheedgewhenthegarmentisbuttoned.
Verticalbuttonholesareusedonplacketsandshirtbands.Theseareusuallyusedwithmoreandsmallerbuttonstohelpkeeptheclosuresecure.Verticalbuttonholesareplaceddirectlyonthecenterfrontorcenterbackline.
Whenagarmentisbuttoned,thebuttonplacementlinesandcenterlinesofbothsidesmustmatchperfectly.Iftheoverlapismoreorlessthanthepatternindicates,thegarmentmaynotfitproperly.
Spacesbetweenbuttonholesaregenerallyequal.Youmayhavetochangethepatternbuttonholespacingifyouhavemadepatternalterationsthatchangethelengthoralterthebustline.Respacingmayalsobenecessaryifyouhavechosenbuttonsthatarelargerorsmallerthanthepatternindicates.Buttonholesshouldbespacedsotheyoccurintheareasofgreateststress.Whentheyareincorrectlyspaced,theclosinggapsandspoilsthegarment’sappearance.
Forfrontopenings,placebuttonholesattheneckandthefullestpartofthebust.Placeabuttonholeatthewaistforcoats,overblousesandprincess-seameddressesorjackets.Toreducebulk,donotplaceabuttonholeatthewaistlineofatucked-inblouseorbelteddress.Buttonsandbuttonholesshouldendabout5"to6"(12.5to15cm)abovethehemlineofadress,skirt,orcoatdress.
Toevenlyrespacebuttonholes,markthelocationsofthetopandbottombuttons.Measurethedistancebetweenthem.Dividethatmeasurement
byonelessthanthenumberofbuttonstobeused.Theresultisthedistancebetweenbuttonholes.Aftermarking,tryonthegarment,makingsurethebuttonholesareplacedcorrectly.Adjustasnecessary.
HowtoDetermineButtonholeLength
Measurewidthandheightofbuttontobeused.Thesumofthesemeasurementsplus1/8"(3mm)forfinishingtheendsofthebuttonholeisthecorrectlengthforamachine-workedbuttonhole.Thebuttonholemustbelargeenoughtobuttoneasily,yetsnugenoughsothegarmentstaysclosed.
Testproposedbuttonhole.First,makeaslashinascrapoffabricthelengthofthebuttonholeminustheextra1/8"(3mm).Ifbuttonpassesthrougheasily,lengthiscorrect.Next,makeapracticebuttonholewithgarment,facing,andinterfacing.Checklength,stitchwidth,densityofstitching,andbuttonholecuttingspace.
HowtoMarkButtonholes
Placepatterntissueontopofgarment,aligningpatternseamlinewithgarmentopeningedge.Insertpinsstraightdownthroughtissueandfabricatbothendsofeachbuttonholemarking.Removepatterncarefully,pullingtissueoverheadsofpins.
Markbuttonholesusingoneofthefollowingmethods: Securepins. Machine-orhand-bastebetweenpinsandalongends.Useawater-solublemarkingpen. Placeapieceoftapeabovethepinsandmarkbuttonholelengthwithapencil;testfabricfirsttobesuretapedoesnotmarit.
Machine-madeButtonholes
Machine-madebuttonholesareappropriateformostgarments,especiallythosewhicharecasualortailored.Therearefourtypes:built-in(usuallytwo-orfour-step),overedge,one-step,anduniversalattachment.Alwaysmakeatestbuttonholewithappropriateinterfacingbeforemakingthebuttonholesonyourgarment.Thetestbuttonholealsoremindsyouatwhichpointyourmachinebeginsthebuttonholestitching,soyoucanpositionfabriccorrectly.
Built-inbuttonholesaremadewithacombinationofzigzagstitchingandbartacks.Mostzigzagmachineshaveabuilt-inmechanismthatstitchesthistypeofbuttonholeintwoorfoursteps.Thefourstepsare:zigzagforward,bartack,zigzaginreverse,bartack.Atwo-stepbuttonholecombinesaforwardorbackwardmotionwithabartack.Consultyourmachinemanualforspecificdirections,becauseeachmachinevaries.Theadvantageofthisbuttonholeisthatitallowsyoutoadjustthedensityofthezigzagtosuitthefabricandsizeofthebuttonhole.Usespacedzigzagstitchesonbulkyorlooselywovenfabrics,closerstitchesonsheerordelicatefabrics.
Overedgebuttonholesareanadaptationofthebuilt-inorone-stepbuttonhole.Thisbuttonholeisstitchedwithanarrowzigzag,cutopenandthenstitchedasecondtime,sothecutedgeisoveredgedwithzigzagstitches.Theoveredgebuttonholelookslikeahand-workedbuttonhole.Itisagoodchoicewhentheinterfacingisnotaclosecolormatchtothefashionfabric.
One-stepbuttonholesarestitchedallinonestep,usingaspecialfootandabuilt-institchavailableonsomemachines.Theycanbestitchedwithastandard-widthzigzag,oranarrowzigzagforlightweightfabrics.Thebuttonisplacedinacarrierinbackoftheattachmentandguidesthestitching,sothebuttonholefitsthebuttonperfectly.Aleverneartheneedleispulleddownandstopsthefowardmotionofthemachinewhenthebuttonholereachesthecorrectlength.Allbuttonholesareofuniformlength,soplacementistheonlymarkingnecessary.
Universalattachmentbuttonholesaremadewithanattachmentwhichwillfitanymachine,includingastraight-stitchmachine.Theattachmenthasatemplatewhichdeterminesthesizeofthebuttonhole.Thismethodalsoofferstheadvantageofuniformbuttonholelengthandadjustablezigzagwidth.Thekeyholebuttonhole,usedontailoredgarmentsorheavyfabrics,canbemadeusingthisattachment.Thekeyholeatoneendofthebuttonholeprovidesspacefortheshank.
Ifbuttonholesdonothavetoberespacedbecauseofpatternalterations,makethebuttonholesafterattachingandfinishingthefacingsbutbeforejoiningtoanothergarmentsection.Thiswaythereislessbulkandweighttohandleatthemachine.
HowtoMakeButtonholes
Built-inbuttonholes.Placefabricunderbuttonholefoot;alignstartingpointwithneedleandcenterfootovermark.(Stepsshownseparately,butbuttonholeisstitchedcontinuously,movingmachinetonewsettingateachstep.) Setdialorleverselectoratfirststep.Slowlystitchseveralstitchesacrossendtoformbartack. Stitchonesidetomarkedend. Stitchseveralstitchesacrossendtoformsecondbartack. Stitchothersidetofirstbartacktocompletebuttonhole.Returntostartingpositionandmakeafewfasteningstitches.
Overedgebuttonhole. Stitchbuttonholewithnarrowzigzag.Cutbuttonholeopen. Repositioninexactpositionasfirststitching.Adjustzigzagtowiderstitch.Stitchsecondtimeovercutedgeofbuttonhole.
One-stepbuttonhole.Placebuttoninattachmentcarrier.Checkmachinemanualforproperstitchsetting.Buttonholeismadethecorrectlengthandstitchingwillstopautomatically.
Universalattachmentbuttonhole.Attachbuttonholeattachmentasinstructedinmanual.Selecttemplateofpropersizetofitbutton.Forsturdierreinforcedbuttonhole,stitcharoundthebuttonholeasecondtime.
HowtoOpenaButtonhole
Insertstraightpinsateachendofbuttonholeinfrontofbartackstopreventcuttingthroughends.
Insertpointofsmall,sharpscissorsoraseamripperintocenterofbuttonholeandcarefullycuttowardoneend,thentheother.
Strengthenthecutedgeandpreventravelingbyapplyingliquidfraypreventertotheedge.Testonasamplefirst.
BUTTONS
Morethananyotherclosure,buttonsallowyoutoindividualizeyourgarment.Buttonscanbedecorativeaswellasfunctional.Therearetwobasickindsofbuttons,sew-throughandshankbuttons,butthevariationsonthesetwotypesareendless.
Sew-throughbuttonsareusuallyflat,withtwoorfourholes.Whentheyaremerelydecorative,theycanbesewnsotheyliedirectlyagainstthegarment.Onallotherapplications,sew-throughbuttonsneedathreadshank.Ashankraisesthebuttonfromthegarmentsurface,allowingspaceforthelayersoffabrictofitsmoothlywhenitisbuttoned.
Shankbuttonshavetheirownshanksontheunderside.Chooseshankbuttonsforheavierfabrics,aswellaswhenusingbuttonloopsorthreadloops.
Whenselectingbuttons,considercolor,style,weight,andcare.
Color.Thecolorofbuttonsisusuallymatchedtothefabric,butinterestingfashionlookscanbeachievedwithcoordinatingorcontrastingcolors.Ifyouareunabletofindanappropriatecolormatch,makeyourownfabric-coveredbuttonswithakit.
Style.Selectsmall,delicatebuttonsforfemininegarments;clean,classicstylesfortailoredclothes;noveltybuttonsforchildren’sclothes.Rhinestonebuttonsaddsparkletoavelvetgarment.Tryleatherormetalbuttonswithcorduroyandwooltweeds.
Weight.Matchlightweightbuttonstolightweightfabrics.Heavybuttons
willpullanddistortlightweightfabrics.Heavyweightfabricsneedbuttonsthatarebiggerorlookweightier.
Care.Choosebuttonsthatcanbecaredforinthesamemannerasthegarment,eitherwashableordry-cleanable.
Thebackofthepatternenvelopetellsyouhowmanyandwhatsizebuttonstopurchase.Trynottogomorethan1/8"(3mm)smallerorlargerthanthepatternspecifies.Buttonsthataretoosmallortoolargemaynotbeinproperproportiontotheedgeofthegarment.Buttonsizesarelistedininches,millimeters,andlines.Forexample,a½"buttonisalsolistedas13mmandline20;a¾"button,as19mmandline30.
Whenshoppingforbuttons,bringaswatchoffabricwithyoutoassureagoodmatch.Cutasmallslitinthefabricsoabuttononthecardcanbeslippedthrough,givingyouabetterideaofhowitwilllookwhenfinished.
Sewonbuttonswithdoubledall-purposethreadforlightweightfabrics,andheavy-dutyortopstitchthreadforheavierfabrics.
HowtoMarkButtonLocation
Markbuttonplacementbylappingthebuttonholesideofgarmentoverthebuttonside,matchingcenterlines.Pingarmentclosedbetweenbuttonholes.
Insertpinstraightthroughbuttonholeandintobottomlayeroffabric.Forverticalbuttonholes,insertpinincenterofbuttonhole.Forhorizontalbuttonholes,insertpinatedgeclosesttoouteredgeofgarment.
Carefullyliftbuttonholeoverpin.Insertthreadedneedleatpointofpintosewonbutton.Markandsewbuttonsoneatatime,buttoningpreviousbuttonsforaccuratemarking.
HowtoSewonaShankButton
Cutalengthofthread30"(76cm)longandrunitthroughbeeswaxtostrengthenit.Foldthreadinhalf.Threadfoldedendthroughacrewelneedle.Knotcutendsofthread.Positionbuttonatpinmarkonthegarmentcenterline,placingshankholeparalleltothebuttonhole.
Securethreadonrightsidewithsmallstitchunderbutton.Bringneedlethroughshankhole.Insertneedledownintofabricandpullthrough.Repeat,takingfourtosixstitchesthroughtheshank.
Securethreadinfabricunderbuttonbymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthreadends.Ifashankbuttonisusedonaheavyfabric,itmayalsoneedathreadshank.Followinstructionsformakingathreadshankonasewthroughbutton,page170.
HowtoHandSewaSew-throughButton
Threadneedleasforshankbutton(page169)andpositionbuttonatpinmark.Placeholesinbuttonsotheylineupparalleltobuttonhole.Bringneedlethroughfabricfromundersideandupthroughoneholeinbutton.Insertneedleintoanotherholeandthroughthefabriclayers.
Slipatoothpick,match,orsewingmachineneedlebetweenthreadandbuttontoformshank.Takethreeorfourstitchesthrougheachpairofholes.Bringneedleandthreadtorightsideunderbutton.Removetoothpick.
Windthreadtwoorthreetimesaroundbuttonstitchestoformshank.Securethreadonrightsideunderbuttonbymakingaknotortakingseveralsmallstitches.Clipthreadsclosetoknot.
HowtoMachineSewaSew-throughButton
Attachbuttonfootandspecialplatetocoverfeed,ordropfeed.Buttonwillbestitchedwithclosezigzagstitching.Regulatestitchwidthandtensionasdirectedinmachinemanual.
Positionbuttonunderfoot.Lowerneedleintocenterofonebuttonholebyturninghandwheeltowardyou.Lowerpresserfoot.Turnhandwheeluntilneedlerisesoutofbuttonandisjustabovefoot.Insertmatchortoothpicktoformshank.
Setzigzagstitchwidthregulatorsothatstitchwidthequalsthespacebetweenholesinbutton.Proceedslowlyuntilyouaresureyouhavethecorrectwidth.Takesixormorezigzagstitches.Securethestitchingasdirectedinyourmachinemanual.
SNAPS
Snapsareavailableasregularsew-onsnaps,gripper-typesnaps,orsnaptape.
Sew-onsnapsaresuitableforareaswherethereislittlestrain,suchasatthenecklineorwaistlinetoholdthefacingedgeflatwhenbuttonsareused,atthewaistlineofblouses,oratthepointedendofawaistbandfastenedwithhooksandeyes.Sewonsnapsconsistoftwoparts:aballandasocket.Selectasizethatisstrongenoughtobesecure,butnottooheavyforthefabric.
Gripper-typesnapsareattachedwithaspecialpliertoolorahammer.Theyhavemoreholdingpowerthanasew-insnapandwillshowontherightsideofthegarment.Grippersnapscanreplacebuttonandbuttonholeclosuresinsportswear.
Snaptapeconsistsofsnapsattachedtopiecesoftape.Thetapeisstitchedtothegarmentwithazipperfoot.Snaptapeisusedinsportswear,homedecorating,andfortheinsideseamofinfant’sandtoddler’spants.
HowtoAttachSew-onSnaps
Positionballhalfofsnaponwrongsideofoverlapsection,1/8"to¼"(3to6mm)fromtheedgesoitwillnotshowontherightside.Stitchinplacethrougheachhole,usingsinglestrandofthread.Stitchthroughfacingandinterfacingonly,notthroughtorightsideofgarment.Securethreadwithtwotinystitches.
Markpositionofsockethalfofsnaponrightsideofunderlapsection.Useoneofthefollowingmethods:Ifthereisaholeincenterofballhalf,insertpinfromrightsidethroughholeandintounderlapsection.Ifthereisnoholeinball,rubtailor’schalkonballandpressfirmlyagainstunderlap.
Positioncenterofsockethalfovermarking.Stitchinplaceinsamemannerasballhalf,exceptstitchthroughalllayersoffabric.
ZIPPERS
Downtheback,upthefront,onsleeves,pockets,orpantslegs—zippersprovideclosingsonavarietyoffashionfeatures.Conventionalzippersaremostoftenused.Theyareclosedatoneendandsewnintoaseam.Invisible,separating,andheavy-dutyzippersareavailableforspecialuses.
Thepatternspecifiesthetypeandlengthzippertobuy.Whenselectingazipper,chooseacolorthatcloselymatchesyourfabric.Alsoconsidertheweightofthezipperinrelationtotheweightofthefabric.Choosesyntheticcoilzippersforlightweightfabrics,becausethesezippersarelighterandmoreflexiblethanmetalzippers.Ifyoucannotfindazipperofthecorrectlength,buyonethatisslightlylongerthanyouneedandshortenitusingthedirectionsonthepage175.
Thereareseveralwaystoinsertazipper.Theoneyouchoosedependsonthetypeofgarmentandthelocationofthezipperinthegarment.Thefollowingpagescontaininstructionsforthelapped,centered,andfly-frontapplicationsforconventionalzippers;twomethodsforinsertingseparatingzippers;andinstructionsforinsertinganinvisiblezipper.Therearevariationsofeachoftheseapplications.Methodsshownherearequickandeasy,featuringtimesavingtoolssuchasfabricgluestickandtransparenttape.
Closethezipperandpressoutthecreasesbeforeinsertingitinthegarment.Ifthezipperhasacottontapeandwillbeappliedinawashablegarment,preshrinkitinhotwaterbeforeapplication.Thiswill
preventthezipperfrompuckeringwhenthegarmentislaundered.Forbestappearance,thefinalstitchingontheoutsideofthegarmentshouldbestraightandanevendistancefromtheseamline.Stitchbothsidesofthezipperfrombottomtotop,andturnthepulltabuptomakeiteasiertostitchpasttheslider.
Separatingzippersinjacketsandvestscanbeinsertedwithzipperteethcoveredorexposed.Adecorativesportzipperwithplasticteethislightweightyetsturdyforactivesportswear.
PartsoftheZipper
Topstopisthesmallmetalbracketatthetopthatpreventsthesliderfromrunningoffthetape.
Sliderandpulltabisthemechanismthatoperatesthezipper.Itlockstheteethtogethertoclosethezipperandunlockstheteethtoopenthezipper.
Tapeisthefabricstriponwhichtheteethorcoilarefastened.Thetapeissewntothegarment.
Teethorcoilisthepartofthezipperthatlockstogetherwhenthesliderrunsalongit.Itmaybemadeofnylon,polyester,ormetal.
Bottomstopisthebracketatthebottomofthezipperwherethesliderrestswhenthezipperisopen.Separatingzippershaveabottomstopwhichsplitsintotwopartstoallowthezippertobecompletelyopened.
ApplicationsforConventionalZippers
Lappedapplicationtotallyconcealsthezipper,makingitagoodchoiceforzippersthatdonotperfectlymatchthefabriccolor.Itismostoftenusedinsideseamclosingsofdresses,skirts,andpants.
Centeredapplicationismostfrequentlyusedforcenterfrontandcenterbackclosings.Attachfacingsbeforeinsertingthezipper.Waistbandsshouldbeappliedafterthezipperisinserted.
Fly-frontzipperisoftenfoundonpantsandskirts,andoccasionallyoncoatsandjackets.Usethefly-frontapplicationonlywhenthepatterncallsforit,becauseitrequiresthewiderunderlapandfacingincludedinthepattern.
Invisiblezippersprovideagarmentclosurethatisinconspicuous,revealingonlythepulltab.Theyareanexcellentalternativetotraditionalzippersforcenterbackorsideinstallations.Aspecialpresserfootisrequiredforinsertinganinvisiblezipper.Thisfootunrollsthecoil;afterstitching,thecoilandfabricrolltotheinside,concealingthezipper.Thepresserfootiseasilyassembledtofittheshanklengthandneedleslantofthesewingmachine.
HowtoShortenaZipper
Measuredesiredlengthalongthecoil,beginningattopstop.Markwithpin.
Machinezigzagacrossthecoilatpintoformnewbottomstop.
Cutoffexcesszipperandtape.Insertzipperasusual,stitchingslowlyacrosscoilatbottom.
HowtoInsertaLappedZipper
Turnthegarmenttothewrongside.Checkseamopeningtomakesuretopedgesareeven.Lengthofopeningshouldbeequaltolengthofzippercoilplus1"(2.5cm).Pinseamfrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.
Machine-basteonseamlinefrombottomoftheopeningtotopofthegarment,removingpinsasyoustitch.
Clipbastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)tomakebastingeasiertoremoveafterzipperisinserted.
Pressseamopen.Ifzipperisinsideseamofskirtorpants,pressseamoverapressmittortailor’shamtoretainshapeofhipline.
Placeopenzipperfacedownonright-handsideofseamallowance(topfacingyou).Positionzippercoildirectlyonseamlinewithtopstop1"(2.5cm)belowcutedge.Turnpulltabup.Pinorgluerighthandsideofzippertapeinplace.
Replacepresserfootwithzipperfootandadjustittorightsideofneedle.Machine-basteclosetoedgeofcoil,stitchingfrombottomtotopofzipperwithedgeofzipperfootagainstcoil.Removepinsasyoustitch.
Closezipperandturnfaceup.Smoothfabricawayfromzipper,formingnarrowfoldbetweenzippercoilandbastedseam.
Adjustzipperfoottoleftsideofneedle.Startingatbottomofzippertape,stitchnearedgeoffold,throughfoldedseamallowanceandzippertape.
Turnzipperoversofacesideisflatagainstseam.Makesurepulltabisturneduptolessenbulkwhilestitching.Pininplace.
Adjustzipperfoottorightsideofneedle.Startingattopofzipper,machine-bastethroughtapeandseamallowanceonly.Thisholdsseamallowanceinplaceforthefinalstitching.
Topstitch½"(1.3cm)fromseamonoutsideofgarment.Toaidstraightstitching,use½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeandstitchalongedge.Startingatseamline,stitchacrossbottomofzipper,pivotatedgeoftapeandcontinue.
Removetape.Pullthreadatbottomofzippertowrongsideandknot.Removemachinebastinginseam.Press,usingapressclothtoprotectfabricfromshine.Trimzippertapeevenwithtopedgeofgarment.
HowtoInsertaCenteredZipper(usinggluestick)
Turngarmenttothewrongside.Checkseamopeningtomakesuretopedgesareeven.Lengthofopeningshouldbeequaltolengthofzippercoilplus1"(2.5cm).
Pinseamfrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.
Machine-basteonseamlinefrombottomofopeningtotopofgarment.Clipbastingstitchesevery2"(5cm)tomakebastingeasiertoremove.
Pressseamopen.Finishrawedgesiffabricravelseasily.
Applygluesticklightlyonfacesideofzipper.
Placezipperfacedownonseam,withzippercoildirectlyonseamlineandtopstop1"(2.5cm)belowcutedge(keeppulltabup).Presswithfingerstosecurezipper.Letgluedryforafewminutes.
Spreadgarmentflat,rightsideup.Markbottomstopofzipperwithpin.Usetransparentorperforatedmarkingtape,½"(1.3cm)wideandsamelengthaszipper.Placedowncenterofseamline.Donotusetapeonnappedordelicatefabrics.
Replacepresserfootwithzipperfootandadjusttoleftofneedle.Topstitchzipperfromrightside,beginningatseamatbottomoftape.Stitchacrossbottomofzipper;pivotatedgeoftape.Stitchupleftsideofzippertotopcutedge,usingedgeoftapeasaguide.
Adjustthezipperfoottorightsideofneedle.Beginatseamatbottomoftapeandstitchacrossbottom.Pivotandstitchuprightsideofzipper,usingedgeoftapeasaguide.
Pullboththreadsatbottomtowrongside.Tieallfourthreads,usingpintopullknotclosetozipper.Clipthreads.
Turngarmenttorightside.Removetape.Carefullyremovemachinebastinginseamline.
Press,usingapressclothtoprotectfabricfromshine.Trimzippertapeevenwiththetopedgeofthegarment.
HowtoInsertaFly-frontZipper
Foraflatmethodofconstruction,applythezipperbeforestitchingthepantsseams.Cutinterfacing1¾"(4.5cm)widebythelengthoftheflyfacing,usingpinkingshears;fusetowrongsideofoverlapfacing.Cutflyshieldfrompantsfabric4"(10cm)widebylengthofflyfacing;curveloweredge,ifdesired.
Finishrawedgesofflyfacings.Pressfoldonoverlapfacingatcenterfront.Stitchfrontcrotchseam,usingshortstitches,beginningabout1½"(3.8cm)fromcrotchpointandendingatbottomofzipperopening;backstitchthreeorfourstitches.
Useazipper1"to2"(2.5to5cm)longerthanthefinishedzipperopening.Placeclosedzipperfacedownonunderlapfacing,withedgeofzippertapeatcenterfrontandzipperstop1/8"(3mm)abovebottomofzipperopening.Pinouteredgeofzippertapetofacing.Usingzipperfoot,stitchzippertapetofacingonly.
Foldunderlapfacingtowrongside;machine-bastenexttofoldline.
Matchcenterfrontmarkingsatupperedge,andpin.Fromwrongside,pinremainingedgeofzippertapetooverlapfacingonly.Withfacingheldawayfrompants,stitchzippertapetofacing.
Markstitchinglineonrightsideofpantsabout1½"(3.2cm)fromcenterfold.Hand-bastenexttostitchingline,ifdesired.Stitch,backstitchingthreeorfourstitchesatcenterfold.Removebasting.Openzipper.
Pressflyshieldinhalflengthwise;finishrawedges.Placeflyshieldunderzipperonunderlapside,withupperedgesmatchingandfoldededgeabout1"(2.5cm)beyondzipperteeth.Stitchclosetofoldthroughalllayers.Removebasting.
Staystitch,withzipperopen,acrossbothendsofzipperatupperedge;trimoffexcesszipperends.Clipcrotchseamallowancesbelowtheflyfacingtowithin¼"(6mm)ofstitching.
Closezipper.Fromwrongside,tackloweredgeofflyshieldtooverlapfacing.Fromrightside,stitchabartackatlowerendofzipperopening,ifdesired.
HowtoInsertaCoveredSeparatingZipper
Usebastingtape,pins,orgluetoholdclosedzipper,faceup,underfacedopeningedges.Positionpulltab1/8"(3mm)belowneckseamline.Edgesoftheopeningshouldmeetatcenterofzipper,coveringtheteeth.
Openzipper.Turnendsofzippertapeunderattopofgarment.Pininplace.
Topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromeachopeningedge,sewingthroughfabricandzippertape.Stitchfrombottomtotoponeachside,adjustingzipperfoottocorrectside.
HowtoInsertanExposedSeparatingZipper
Pinfacedopeningedgestoclosedzippersothatedgesareclosetobutnotcoveringzipperteeth,withpulltab1/8"(3mm)belowneckseamline.
Bastezipperinplacewithtapeendsextendingaboveneckseamline.Turnendsofzippertapeunderattopofgarmentiffacingisalreadyattached.Openzipper.
Topstitchclosetoopeningedgesonrightsideofgarment,usingzipperfootandstitchingfrombottomtotoponeachside.Toholdzippertapeflat,addanotherlineofstitching¼"(6mm)fromfirststitchinglineoneachside.
HowtoInsertanInvisibleZipper
Invisiblezipperscanbemosteasilyinsertedbystitchingthemintothegarmentbeforestitchinganypartoftheseam.Hand-bastealinethelengthofthezipperongarmentpieces,ascant¾"(2cm)fromtherawedge.Openzipper.Steampresszippertapefromwrongside,tounrollcoils.
Positionclosedzipperontherightsideofthegarmentsection,withzippertab3/8"(1cm)fromnecklineseam;pin-markgarmentpiecesatupperandloweredgesofzipper,makingsurethepatternmarkingsarealigned.
Openzipper;positiononrightgarmentsection,rightsidestogether,withleftsideofthezippercoilalignedtobastedlineandendsofzipperalignedtopinmarks;zippertapeisinseamallowance.Pinorhand-bastezippertapeinplace.
Attachinvisiblezipperfoottomachine;positionzippercoilundergrooveonrightsideoffoot(arrow).Slidezipperfootonadaptertoadjustneedlepositionsostitchingwillbeveryclosetothecoil;onheavierfabric,setneedlepositionslightlyfartherfromcoil.
Stitch,startingatupperedgeofzippercoil,untilzipperfoottouchesthepulltabatbottom,takingcarenottostretchfabric.Securethreadatends.
Pinorhand-basteremainingsideofzippertoleftgarmentsection,asinstep3,makingsuretoalignendsofzippertopinmarks.
Positioncoilunderzipperfoot;slidezipperfootonadaptertotheoppositeside,andadjusttheneedleposition.Stitchuntilzipperfoottouchesthepulltab;securethread.
Closethezipperandstitchtheremainderofgarmentseam;usearegularzipperfoottogetascloseaspossibletothezipperseam.
Securelowerendoftapetoseamallowances,usingaregularzipperfoot.
TailoringTailoringdiffersfromdressmakinginanumberofways.Thetermtailoredappliestofashionsstyledlikemenswear,suchasasuitjacket.Italsodescribescertainmethodsofconstructionandpatterndesign.Theundercollarandcollaronatailoredjacket,forexample,arecutfromtwodifferentpatternpiecestoshapethecollar.Indressmaking,bothcollarlayersareusuallycutfromthesamepatternpiece.Detailssuchasaweltpocket,notchedcollar,andfullliningaretypicalinpatternsfortailoredfashions.
Tailoringalsocallsforextensiveuseofinterfacingsforbuildinginshape.Entiregarmentsections,notjustthedetails,arebackedwithinterfacingwhentailored.Twolayersofinterfacingmaybeusedforshapingtherolllineonjacketlapels.Becausedifferentkindsofinterfacingshavedistinctiveeffects,asingletailoredjacketmayrequireseveraltypesofinterfacing.
Fusibleinterfacingshaveeliminatedmostofthetime-consuminghandworkthatwasoncethetrademarkoftailoring.Withfusiblesyoucantailorexpertlywithjustalittlepractice.However,it’simportanttochoosetherightfashionfabricandinterfacingforthetailoringtaskathand.
UsingFusibleInterfacings
Fourtypesoffusibleinterfacingsmaybeusedfortailoring;oftenallfourareusedinonegarment.Fusibletricot,aknittedinterfacing,addsbodyandsupporttothefabricwithoutcausingstiffness.Useittostabilizegarmentsectionssuchassleeves,hems,frontfacings,andtheuppercollar.Fusiblehaircanvas,awoveninterfacing,isfirmandresilient.Useitforthejacketfrontandundercollarwhenthefabricneedsstrongsupport.Weftinsertionfusibleisaknittedinterfacingwithextrayarnsinsertedcrosswise.Inamediumweight,itisasofteralternativetohaircanvasandisusedtostabilizefashiondetails,suchasventsonjackethemsandtherolllinesoflapelsandundercollars.Inalighterweight,itisanalternativetofusibletricot.Crisp,nonwovenfusibleinterfacingisusedtokeepsmalldetails,suchaspocketflaps,firmandsmooth.
Testfusibleinterfacingsbymakingasamplewhentailoring.Becauseentiresectionsofthegarmentwillbeinterfaced,thesampleshouldbelargeenoughtodrapeoveryourhand,atleast6"(15cm)square(largerifyoucansparethefabric).Theidealmethodfortestingfusibleinterfacingsistofuse6"(15cm)squaresofdifferenttypesofinterfacingonalongpanel,leavingplainfabricinbetween.Thecontrastinfeelingbetweeninterfacedandnoninterfacedareasclearlyshowstheeffectofeachinterfacing.
ChoosingTailoringFabrics
Whentailoringwithfusibleinterfacings,you’llbemoresatisfiedifyoubeginwithadurablefabricofgoodquality.Naturalfiberfabrics,suchaswool,cotton,silk,andlinen,respondwelltofusing.Manyfabricsmadefromsyntheticfibersandblends,suchaspolyesterandrayon,fusenicely,too.However,somesyntheticsandmetallicfibersaretooheatsensitiveforfusibleinterfacings.
Texturedfabrics,suchastweedsandlinenweaves,tailorwell;theirsurfacesgivethefusibleadhesivesomethingtogripforastrongbond.Ontheotherhand,somefabricswithtightweavesandsmoothsurfaces,suchasfinepolyestergabardines,resistsmoothfusingandshouldbeusedwithsew-ininterfacing.
Preshrinktailoringfabricstopreparethemfortheextrasteamusedwhenfusinginterfacingsandtopreventshrinkageofthegarment.Thoroughsteam-pressingpreshrinksfabriceffectivelywithoutsacrificingthefresh,newlook.Steam-pressfabricathome,orhaveadrycleanerdoitforyou.Afasterandeasierpreshrinkingmethodistossingthefabricintoaclothesdryerwithafewdamptowels.Tumbleforseventotenminutesatamedium-highheat.Removeimmediately;layflattodry.Steam-pressifnecessary.
SequenceforTailoringaJacket
Thefirststepintailoringajacketistofuseinterfacingontothemajorsections.Makepocketsnext.Thensewthejackettogetherandmakeanotchedorshawlcollar.Finishthesleeves,includingthesleevehems,andsetthemin.Shapetheshoulderswithshoulderpadsandsleeveheads.Hemthejacket,andsewtheliningasthefinalstep.
INTERFACINGTHEJACKETSECTIONS
Inonesession,fuseinterfacingtothejacketfront,facing,back,collar,undercollar,andsleeves.Groupingtheworkisanefficientwaytopreparemajorjacketsectionsforthestepsthatfollow.Afterfusing,letthesectionscoolanddryonaflatsurface.Waitovernightbeforehandlingmedium-toheavyweightwoolensandtexturedtweeds.Waitoneortwohoursforfabricsoflighterweight.
Fusibleinterfacingiscutontheseamlineratherthanthecuttinglineinallplacesexceptatthearmhole.Stitchinterfacingintheseamatthearmholetosupportthesleeve.Forlightweightfabrics,usethecuttinglineattheheminsteadofthehemfoldline.
HowtoInterfaceaJacketFrontandFacing
Traceseamlinesofjacketfrontandsidefrontpatternpiecesonfusibleweftinsertionorhaircanvas.Transferallpatternmarkingstointerfacing,includinglapelrolllineanddartstitchinglines;itisunnecessarytomarkfashionfabric.
Cutoutanydartsondartstitchinglinestoeliminatebulk.Dartinfashionfabricwillbestitchedalongcutedgeofinterfacing.
Placeinterfacing,adhesivesidedown,onwrongsideofjacketsections.Placepatternontoptopositiondartsandedgesofinterfacingatseamlines.Usingdryiron,tackinterfacinginplacetoprepareforpermanentfusing.Setpatternpieceaside.
Placepressclothoninterfacing.Beginatcenterofsection,thenfuseeachend.Toavoiddisturbingfusedsections,fuseremainingareasbyalternatingfromonesidetotheother.Neverslideiron,whichcouldcauselayerstoshift.
Turnjacketsectionovertorightside.Usingdrypressclothtoprotectrightsideoffabric,pressthoroughlywithsteamiron.Layflattoallowfusedsectionstocoolanddrycompletely.
Fusetricotknitinterfacingorlightweightnonwoveninterfacingtofrontfacingsaftertrimmingseamallowancesatfrontoffacings.Interfacingextendstoouteredgeoffacing.
ShapingLapels
Layer.Addsecondlayerofinterfacingtolapelareaonly.Useweftinsertionfusibleinterfacing,andcutittofitfromrolllinetoseamlineoflapel;rolllineshouldbeplacedonstraightgrainofinterfacingtostabilizebiasgrainofjacketatrollline.
Hinge.Whenusingfusiblehaircanvas,useahingedrolllineforasharperedgeonbulkyorheavyweightfabrics.Tomakeahinge,cutinterfacingonlapelrolllinebeforefusinginterfacingtojacketfront.
Tape.Usenarrowtwilltape¼"to½"(6mmto1.3cm)shorterthanlapelrolllinetocontourrollline;shortentape½"(1.3cm)forfullbust.Placeoneedgeoftapenexttorollline;zigzagbothtapeedgestojacket,easinginterfacingtofittape.
Foldfusedlapelonrollline,andpressacrease.Donotpresscreaseatlower2"(5cm)oflapelrollline;gentlysteamthisareainstead.Laylapelovertailor’shamforpressing.Leavelapelonhamuntillapeliscompletelycoolanddry.
HowtoInterfaceaJacketBackwithFusibleInterfacing
Cutinterfacingforjacketbackfromsameinterfacingusedforjacketfront,oruselighterweightinterfacing.Cutandmarkasforjacketfrontinterfacing,page186,steps1and2.
Fuseinterfacingtojacketback,usingsametechniqueasforinterfacingjacketfront,page187,steps3to5.Fuseinterfacingtobothjacketbacksectionsbeforestitchingcenterbackseam.
HowtoInterfaceaJacketBackandHem
Cutpartialjacketbackinterfacingfromlightweightwovenfabricwhengarmentdoesnotneedafusedinterfacingfortheentireback.Stitchdartsseparatelyininterfacingandgarment.Pressinterfacingdartstowardarmholeandgarmentdartstowardcenterback.
Staystitchinterfacingtojacketback,½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges.Includenarrowtwilltapestayinstaystitchingatshoulderstopreventbiasshoulderseamfromstretching.
Hemwithoutvent.Cutfusibleknitornonwoveninterfacingcrosswisetofitshapeofhemfromhemfoldtorawedge;cutfusibleweftinsertiononthebias.Fuseasforjacketfrontinterfacing,page187,steps3to6.
Hemwithvent.Cutinterfacingtostabilizeventunderlapandoverlap.Placestraightgrainofinterfacingonlapfoldlines.
HowtoInterfaceandShapeaJacketUndercollar
Cutundercollarfromfusibleweftinsertionorhaircanvasonbiasgrain.Tocutcollarstandinterfacing,traceundercollarpatternfromrolllinetonecklineseam;placecenterbackseamonstraightgrainfold.
Transferallpatternmarkingstobothlayersofinterfacing.Fuseinterfacingtoundercollar;stitchcenterbackseam.Fusestandafterstitchingseam.
Foldundercollaronrollline,andpressasharpcrease.Pinaspressedaroundtailor’sham,andsteam.Leaveinplaceonhamuntilcompletelycoolanddry.
HowtoInterfaceSleeves
Uselightweightfusibleinterfacingforcomfortandappearance.Cutinterfacingonseamlinesofsleevepattern.Atsleevehem,usecuttinglineinsteadofseamline.Transferallpatternmarkingstosleeveinterfacing.
Fuseinterfacingtosleevesectionsbeforesewingseams.
Alternativemethod:Backthejacketsleeveswithbatiste.Transferpatternmarkingstobatiste.Staystitchbatistetosleeve,½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges.Machine-bastealonghemandventfoldlines.
TAILORINGANOTCHEDCOLLAR
Anotchedcollartakesitsnamefromtheangleofthejacketcollarwhereitjoinsthejacketlapels.Theseamsthatmeetthereformanotch,orV-shapedcutout,oneachsideoftheneckline.Theseamisthegorgeline.Acrisp,flat,evennotchisahallmarkoffinetailoring.Thekeytothisdetailisanartfulcombinationofstitchingandpressing,pluscarefultrimmingofenclosedseamallowancestoreducebulk.
Severalpatternpiecesareneededtomakeanotchedcollar.Theundercollar,interfacedandshaped,isthefirstsectiontobesewntothejacket.Next,sewtheuppercollartothefacing;aportionofthisfacingbecomestheoutsideofthelapelswhenthecollarisfinished.Aftersewingthefinalseam,whichattachesthecollar/facingsectiontothejacket,pressandedgestitchortopstitch,usingtechniquesonpage193toshapeandstitchthenotches.
HowtoSewaNotchedCollar
Staystitchjacket½"(1.3cm)fromnecklinerawedge.Cliptostaystitching.Thisreleasescurvednecklineseamallowancesoitliesflatforeasiersewing.
Matchpatternmarkingstolineupundercollarandjacketnecklineedge.Stitchundercollartojacketnecklineuptopatternmarkingsonlapels(arrow);cliptomarking.
Pressseamopenovertailor’sham.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm)toreducebulk.
Staystitchfacing½"(1.3cm)fromnecklineedge.Cliptostaystitching.Stitchcollartofacingnecklineuptopatternmarkingsonlapels;cliptomarking.
Pressseamopenovertailor’sham.Trimseamallowancesto3/8"(1cm),slightlywiderthanundercollartoreducebulk.
Pincollar/facingsectiontoundercollar/jacketsection,pinningthroughseamsatcollarnotches(arrow)tobesuretheseamslineupprecisely.
Trimexcessfabricofcollarseamallowancetostitchinglineonupperandundercollar.
Stitchseam,startingatbottomofonejacketedge.Shortenstitches1"(2.5cm)fromlapel.Takeoneortwoshortstitchesdiagonallyacrosslapelpoint.(Lapelremovedfrommachinetoshowstitching.)
Stitchfromlapelpointtocollarpoint,holdingseamstraighttoensurethatnotchesmatchonbothsidesofjacketcollar.Finishstitchingseam,usingsametechniqueonotherside.
Pressseamopen,usingpointpresseratlapelandcollarpoints.Diagonallytrimcornersclosetostitching.Gradeseamallowanceonundercollar/lapelto¼"(6mm),andoncollar/facingto3/8"(1cm).Continuegradingtolapelrollline.
Clipseamatendsoflapelrollline.Belowclips,gradejacketfrontseamallowanceto3/8"(1cm)andfacingto¼"(6mm).Pressseamopen;turnrightsideout.
Tackupperandundercollarseamstogetherwithlooserunningstitch.Ifseamsdonotlineupexactlybecauseofbulkoffabric,tacktheseamswheretheymeet.
TipsforPressingaTailoredCollar
Presscollarandlapelsfromunderside.Rollseamtowardundersideofcollarandlapels,stoppingabout1"(2.5cm)fromendoflapelrollline.Press,usingtailor’sclappertoforcesteamoutoffabric;thiscreatescrispedge.
Presslower1"(2.5cm)oflapelrolllinesoseamisatedge.Workfromundersideoflapels.
Pressjacketfrontbelowlapelrolllinefrominside.Presssoseamrollstowardjacketfacing.
HowtoTopstitchaTailoredCollar
Topstitchonrightsideofjacket,beginningatoneloweredge.Whenusingtopstitchingthreadintheneedle,stopatbottomoflapelrollline.Clipthreads.Pullthreadsthroughtofacingside;buryendsbetweenfacingandgarment.
Continuetopstitchingfromrightsideoflapel.Startatexactpointwherestitchingended,oroverlaptwostitches.Atcollarnotch,pivotandstitchuptonotchedge.(Thegarmentisoffthemachineonlytoshowdetail.Donotremovefrommachine.)
Shortenstitchlength,pivot,andstitchintheditchtotopstitchinglineofcollar.Pivot,andstitcharoundcollartoothernotch.Repeatatsecondnotch.Breaktopstitchingatendoflapelrolllineasdescribedinstep1.
SHAPINGTHESHOULDERS
Jacketsneedinsidesupportforfirm,smoothshapeattheshoulders.Intailoring,thetwoimportantshapingaidsareshoulderpadsandsleeveheads.
Shoulderpadscanbecustom-madetofitthejacketarmhole,usingthejacketpatternpieces.Tofityourfigure,adjustthesizeandthicknessoftheshoulderpad.Ifoneshoulderishigherthantheotherone,thepadcanbemadethickertocompensateforthedifference.Ifyourshouldersaresloping,useathickerpadthanthepatternsuggests.Forsquareshoulders,useathinnershoulderpad.
Ontailoredgarmentssuchasjacketsandcoats,thefrontoftheshoulderpadiswiderthanthebacktofillinthehollowareabelowtheshoulderandtocreateasmoothline.Thebackisnarrowerthanthefronttofitaroundtheshoulderblades.Forafullbust,maketheshoulderpadslightlyshorterinfront.Wheneveryoutryonthejacketorcoatforfitting,sliptheshoulderpadsinplace.Theshapeandsizeoftheshoulderpadscanmakeabigdifferenceinthewaytheshoulderandsleevefit.
Tobuildthepadstothedesiredthickness,cutgraduatedlayersofathinfiller,suchaspolyesterfleeceorcotton/polyesterquiltbatting.Thesefillersaddliftwithoutbeingtoosoft.Fortheupperlayerofashoulderpad,usefusiblehaircanvas.Thegoat’shairfibersinthecanvasgripthejacketfabric,helpingtosecurethepadtothegarment.Also,thestrong,resilientcanvasmakestheshoulderpadsfirmandwrinklefree.
Sleeveheadsarestripsoffillerthatsupportthesleevecapsonatailoredjackettoboostthecapsandsmoothoutanywrinkleswherethesleevewaseasedtofitthearmhole.Sleeveheadsalsoimprovethewaythejacketsleevesdrape.Thesamefillerusedforshoulderpads(fleeceorquiltbatting)canbeusedtomakesleeveheads.Necktieinterfacingcutonthetruebiasgraincanalsobeused.
HowtoMakeaCustomShoulderPad
Lapjacketfrontandbackpatternsatshoulderseam.Tracearmholebetweenfrontandbacknotches.Endshoulderpadpattern½"(1.3cm)fromneckseamedge,about5"(12.5cm)fromarmhole.Markshoulderseamonpadpattern.Labelarmholefrontandarmholeback.
Cutpatternfromfusiblehaircanvas.Transfershoulderseammarkings.Markfrontandbackofarmholeoncanvas.Alsocutfourlayersoffiller,graduallyreducinglayersbyabout¾"(2cm)insize,tomake½"(1.3cm)thickpad.Adjustsizesandnumbersoflayerstomakepaddesiredthickness.
Stitcharoundarmholeedgeandacrossshouldermarkingwithrunningstitchestoholdfillerlayerstogether.Addmorerowsofstitchesabout1"(2.5cm)apart,fanningrowsoutfromarmholeedge.
Fusehaircanvastowidestlayeroffleece,placingpadovertailor’shamtopresspadtoshapeofshoulder.Tackpadtojacketbyhand,placingcanvaslayernexttojacket.
HowtoMakeaSleeveHead
Cutstripoffiller17/8"(4.7cm)deepandthelengthofjacketsleevecap.Sleevecapiseasedareaofset-insleeve,betweenpatternmarkings.Matchonelongedgeofsleeveheadtorawedgeofarmholeseamallowance.
Stitchsleeveheadtoseamlinearoundsleevecap,usingrunningstitches.Whensleeveisturnedrightsideout,sleeveheadfoldsintotwolayers.Toplayerextendsbeyondbottomlayertopreventridgeonoutsideofjacket.
TAILOREDHEMS
Tailoredhemsonjacketsandjacketsleevesarebestputinwithacatchstitch.Thesearesmallhorizontalstitchesmadeinazigzagpattern.Withablindcatchstitch,thestitchesdonotshowfromtheinsideortheoutsidebecausetheyareworkedbetweenthehemedgeandthejacketorsleeve.Thehemisnotheldtightlyagainstthegarment;itshouldbesewnlooselywithsomeplayattherawedge.Atailoredhemshouldnotshowaridgeontheoutsideofthejacketafterpressing,evenifabulkyfabricisused.
Determinehemlengthsonjacketsandsleevesbeforecuttingoutthepatternpieces.Althoughthedepthcanvary,thestandardhemonajacketis2"(5cm)deep.Thestandardsleevehemis1½"(3.8cm)deep.Hemajacketaftercompletingthecollarorbeforesewinginthelining.Foreasierhandling,sewsleevehemsbeforesettingthesleevesintothejacket.
Trimming.Trimseamallowanceswithinthehemtohalftheirwidth,fromrawedgeofhemtohemlineonly.Thisreducesbulkandpreventsbumpswhereseamscrosshemline.
Edgefinishing.Liningcoversthehemedgewhenajacketiscompleted,sofinishtheedgeonlyifthefabricravelsorstretches.Useanonbulkyzigzagged,overlocked,orstitched-and-pinkedfinish.Ifyouhavefusedtheinterfacing,theedgeneedsnofurtherfinishing.
Pressing.Pressthehembeforesewing.Ifthehemisverycurved,usealineofeasestitchingalongtherawedgetohelpeaseinfabricfullness.
HowtoSewaTailoredHem
Turnhemupandpressathemfoldline.Openoutpressedhemandtrimseamallowancestohalfwidthfromrawedgeofhemtofoldline.Basteheminplaceclosetofold.
Press,lettingsteampenetratefabrictoeaseextrafullnessinsmoothly.Toavoidaridgeonrightside,donotpressoverupperedgeofhem.
Catchstitchforlinedgarments.Worklooselyoverhemedgefromlefttoright.Makestitchinhem,catchingoneortwothreads;thenmakeastitchjustoutsidehemedge,catchingonegarmentthread.Alternatestitchesinzigzagpattern.
Blindcatchstitchforunlinedgarments.Finishrawedgewithappropriateedgefinish.Basteheminplaceclosetofinishededge.Foldhemedgedownandlooselycatchstitchbetweenhemandgarment.Stitchingisnotvisible.
HowtoHemaJacketVent
Arrangeventinfinishedposition.Clipseamsounderlapliesflat.Frominsideofjacket,ventunderlapisontopwithseamallowancepressedback;overlaponbottomhasself-facingfoldedback.
Presshemintopositiononoverlap.Pressfoldathemandatventself-facingtoprepareformitering.Clipventfacingandhemallowancewheretwoedgesmeet.
Openoutcorner.Markstitchinglinefromclips(arrows)throughcornerpointwherepressedlinesmeet.Foldthroughcorner(dottedline),withrightsidestogether,matchingclipmarks.
Stitchonmarkedline.Trimseamto¼"(6mm).Pressseamopen;turntorightside.
Foldhemtooutsideonventunderlap,rightsidestogether.Stitchseamfromhemfoldtotopofhem.Trimto¼"(6mm)andpressopen;turnrightsideout.Catchstitchhemandventinplace.
Arrangeventinfinishedposition.Stitchacrosstopofventfrominsidethroughalllayers.Gradeseam.
LINING
Liningagarmentservesseveralpurposes:ithidesseamallowances,protectsthemfromfraying,andhelpsthegarmentretainitsshape.Forjacketsandcoats,thesmoothsurfaceoftheliningmakesiteasiertoputonthegarmentoverashirtorsweater.Forskirtsandpants,liningoftenmakesthegarmentmorecomfortableagainsttheskin.
LiningaJacket
Aliningiscutandsewnalongthesamestylelinesasajacket,buthasextradetailstoaddcomfort.Apleatinthecenterbackoftheliningallowsforwearingeaseacrossshouldersandupperback.Apleatalsoisformedbetweentheliningandhems.Thisisajumphem,anditallowsyoutomovecomfortablywithoutstrainingthestitches.
Somejacketpatternsprovideseparatepatternpiecesforthelining,andothersfurnishcuttinglinesfortheliningonthejacketpatternitself.Ifthesamepatternisusedforthesleeveandthesleevelining,cutthesleevelining½"(1.3cm)higherattheunderarms.Thisallowstheliningtorestabovethejacketunderarmseamsandpreventsbindingatthearmholes.Whenaseparatesleeveliningpatternisprovided,thismayhavebeendoneforyou.
Cutthejacketandsleevelining½"(1.3cm)longerthanthefinishedlengthafterhemming.Aftertheliningisappliedtojacketandsleevehems,thefinishededgeswillfalljustbelowthehalfwaypointonthejacketandsleevehems.Ifyouadjustthejacketorsleeves,makethesameadjustmentsontheliningpatterns.
HowtoLineaJacket
Stitchliningsectionstogether,includingsleeves.Reinforcearmholeseamwithtworowsofstitching.Foldandmachine-bastecenterbackpleatattopandbottomoflining.Staystitch½"(1.3cm)fromneckline,sleeve,andloweredgesoflining;cliptostaystitchingatneckline.
Turnjacketfacingout.Withrightsidestogether,stitchliningtofacing.Oneachsideinfront,leaveseamunstitchedfortwicethedepthofhem.(Leave4"[10cm]unstitchedifjackethemis2"[5cm]deep.)Clipseamallowanceatcurves.Pressseamasstitched.
Matchseamallowancesofliningandjacketatshoulder and
underarm seams;tackinplace.Turnliningrightsideout.Smoothsleevesintopositiononinsideofjacket.Lightlypressfacing/liningseamallowancestowardlining,usingapresscloth.
Trimrawedgesoffrontfacingtoneatenthem,ifnecessary.Whipstitchrawedgestohem.Turnliningunderonstaystitchinglineatloweredge.Pinsorawedgeofliningisevenwithtopedgeofjackethem.
Slipstitchliningfoldtojackethem,sewingthroughjackethemallowanceonly.Atfrontedges,foldlininghemdowntoformpleat,andslipstitchtofacingoneachside.
Sewliningtoeachsleevehem,followingsteps4and5.Sewjumphemaroundentiresleeve,evenifsleevehemhasvent;sleeveventsaredecorativeandnotmeanttoopenandclose.Presssleevelininghemoverseamroll.
HowtoLineaJacketwithaHemVent
Stitchcenterbackseamtomarkingattopofvent;clipintoseamsoleftsideofventliesflat.Staystitchrightsideofventonseamlineacrosstopandonfoldline.Clipintocornertofoldunderrawedgeonstaystitching.Attachliningtojacketfacing,followingsteps1to3,opposite.
Matchcenterbackseamsofliningandjacketatventopening.Foldunder5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowanceacrosstopofleftventlininganddownside.Pinliningtosideedgesofventonjacket;leavetopedgeunpinned.Matchrawedgeofliningtojackethemedge,formingpleatatbottomofvent.
Sewliningtohems,followingsteps4and5,above.Slipstitchventliningalongventsideedges.Stitchacrosstopofventlining.Topreventliningfrompullingattopofvent,slipstitchesshouldnotgothroughtojacketfabric.
LININGASKIRTORPANTS
Fewpatternsprovideliningsforskirtsandpants,butaddingaliningmakesgarmentshangbetterandiseasytoaccomplish.Themethodgivenhereisforasliplining,whichisfree-hangingandattachedatthewaistline;theskirtorpantsandtheliningarehemmedseparately.Anadvantageofaslipliningisthatthegarmentiseasytopressbecauseyoucanliftthewholeliningout.
Unlikejacketandcoatlinings,skirtandpantsliningsarewornagainstyourskin.Inwarmorhumidclimates,fabricsmadefromrayon,cotton,orcottonblendsmayfeelmorecomfortablethanthosemadefrompolyesterandsimilarsyntheticfibers.
TipsforLiningSkirtsandPants
Cuttheliningfromthemajorfrontandbackpatternpieces.Omitsmallpatternpiecessuchasthewaistband,facings,andpockets.Foragatheredskirtinalightweightfabric,theskirtandliningmaybetreatedasonelayeroffabric.Foraheavierweightgatheredskirt,cuttheliningfromapatternforasimpleA-lineskirt,ormakesmallpleatsorreleasedtucksinsteadofgathersinthelining.Orpleatoutthefullnessfromthetissuepatternbeforecuttingthelining,allowingsomeeaseformovement.Anyofthesemethodseliminatesbulkatthewaistline.
Omitanyseamextensionsforinseampocketswhenyoucutoutalining.Straightenthecuttinglinesonthefrontandbackpatternpiecestochangethepocketopeningstoplainseams.Ifthegarmenthasslantedpockets,lapthefrontpatternpiecestocuttheliningwithoutpockets.
Shortenthepatternpiecessotheliningwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthantheskirtorpantsafterhemming.Ifyouplantomakea1"(2.5cm)heminthelining,cuttheloweredgeoftheliningatthehemlineoftheskirtorpants.
Transferpatternmarkingsatthezipperopeningandthewaisttotheliningsectionsaftercutting.Thesemarkingswillhelpyoupositionthelininginsidetheskirtorpants.
Assembletheskirtorpants,includingthezipperandpockets,beforeattachingthelining.Allstitchingonthegarmentshouldbecompletedexceptforthewaistbandandthehem.Pressseamsopen.Unlessthefabricravelseasily,itisnotnecessarytofinishtheseams.
HowtoLineaSkirt
Stitchliningseams,leavingseamopenatzipper;pressopen.Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether,matchingseams.Machine-bastetogetheronwaistseamline,foldingliningunderatzipperedge.
Foldliningedgesundertoexposezippercoilandalloweasyopeningandclosingofzipper.Pinandslipstitchliningtozippertape.
Applywaistband.Hemliningsoitis1"(2.5cm)shorterthanskirt.Sewlininghembyhandormachine,asdesired.
Darts,Ease,orPleatsinLinings
Darts.Pintucksintheskirtorpantslining,matchingthedartmarkings.Dartsinskirtorpantsarepressedtowardcenterfrontandback.Presstucksinlininginoppositedirectiontoreducebulk.
Easedorslightlygatheredarea.
Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether.Machine-basteatwaistlineseam.Gatherliningandskirtasiftheywereonelayeroffabric,pullingupeasetofitwaistband.
Pleat-frontskirtsorpants.
Machine-bastepleatsseparatelyinliningandgarment.Pressliningpleatsflatinoppositedirectionofskirtpleats.Slipliningoverskirt,wrongsidestogether.Machine-basteatwaistline.
SewingActivewear
ELASTICIZEDWAISTBANDS
Elasticizedwaistbandsarecomfortabletowearandeasytosew.Theycomplementthestretchofknitfabrics.Someelasticizedwaistbandsare“cuton,”whichmeansthewaistbandsarecutasanextensionofthegarmentatthewaistlineedge,whileothersareaseparatewaistbandpiece.Chooseanapplicationtechniqueaccordingtothefabric,thegarmentstyle,andthetypeofelasticyouareusing.
Twotechniquesforcut-onwaistbandsareincluded:onewithacasingandonewithtopstitching.Bothareappropriateforgarmentsmadefromlightweighttomedium-weightfabrics.Cut-onwaistbandswithcasings
giveacasuallook.Firmbraidedorwovenelasticsarewellsuitedforthistechnique.Becausetheelasticisnotcaughtinthewaistlineseam,itcaneasilybeadjustedforabetterfit,ifnecessary.Cut-onwaistbands
withtopstitching giveavarietyoflooks,dependingonthetypeoftopstitching.Useanelasticwithgoodstretchandrecoveryqualitiessotheelasticwillstretchtothecircumferenceofthegarmentopening,yet
retainitsfit.Drawstringelastic maybeusedforthismethod.
Twoadditionaltechniquesareincludedforwaistbandsthatuseaseparatewaistbandpiece:smoothwaistbandsandshirredwaistbands.Whensewinggarmentsfromlightweightormedium-weightknits,youmaycutthewaistbandfromselffabric.Whensewingbulkyfabrics,suchassweatshirtfleece,choosematchingribbingforthewaistbandor,foramoredecorativeeffect,acontrastingfabric.
Smoothseparatewaistbands givethesmoothappearanceofatraditionalwaistbandwhenthegarmentisworn.Thiswaistbandstyleissuitableforaslim-fittinggarmentmadefromlightweightormedium-weightknitfabricwithmoderatestretch.Useafirm1"or1¼"(2.5or3.2cm)elastic.
Shirredseparatewaistbands complementfullergarmentstyles,suchasfullskirts,andareespeciallyattractivewhenusedwithwiderelastics.Shirredwaistbandsmaybetopstitchedornot,dependingonthelookyouprefer.Firmelasticisrecommendedforthistypeofwaistband.
Ingeneral,cutelastics2"to3"(5to7.5cm)lessthanyourwaistmeasurement.Cutsoft,lightweightelastics,suchasknitelastics,3"to5"(7.5to12.5cm)lessthanyourwaistmeasurement.Cutveryfirmelastics,suchasnonrollwaistbandelastic,equalto,or1"(2.5cm)lessthan,yourwaistmeasurement.Marktheelastic,andpinitaroundyourwaistlinebeforecuttingit.Checktoseethattheelasticfitscomfortablyaroundyourwaistandpullsoveryourhipseasily.
Multiplerowsoftopstitchingcancauseelastictolosesomeofitsrecovery.Ifyouareusingamethodthatcallsfortopstitching,youmaywanttocuttheelasticupto1"(2.5cm)shorterthantheguidelines,toensureasnugfit.
TipsforSewingElasticizedWaistbands
Preshrinkelasticsforcasingapplicationsbeforemeasuring.Elasticsthatwillbestitchedondonotrequirepreshrinking.
Uselongerstitches,abouteighttoninestitchesperinch(2.5cm),whenstitchingthroughtheelastic;thestitcheswillappearshorterwhenelasticisrelaxed.Astitchlengththatistooshortweakensandstretchesouttheelastic.
Steamthefinishedwaistbandafterconstruction,holdingtheironabovethefabric,tohelptheelasticreturntoitsoriginallength.
TwoWaystoJointheEndsoftheElastic
Buttedmethod.Buttendsofelastic.Stitchbackandforth,using3-stepzigzagstitchorwidezigzagstitch,catchingbothendsofelasticinstitching.Thismethodisrecommendedforfirmelastics.
Overlappedmethod.Overlapendsofelastic½"(1.3cm).Stitchbackandforththroughbothlayers,usingwidezigzagstitchor3-stepzigzagstitch.Useforsoftelastics,suchasknittedelastic.
HowtoSewaCut-onWaistbandwithaCasing
Extendgarmentpatternpiecesabovewaistlinetwicethewidthoftheelasticplus5/8"(1.5cm).Cutoutgarmentsections,andstitchtogether.
Overlockrawedgeatwaist,ifdesired.Foldedgeoffabrictowrongside,anamountequaltowidthofelasticplus½"(1.3cm).Edgestitchclosetofold.
Joinendsofelastic(page203).Positionelasticwithinfoldedcasingarea.Stitchnexttoelastic,usingstraightstitchandzipperfoot;donotcatchelasticinstitching.Shiftfabricaroundelasticasnecessarywhilestitching.
Stretchwaistbandtodistributefabricevenly.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchthroughallwaistbandlayers,atcenterfront,centerback,andsideseams,tosecureelastic.
Alternatemethod.
Followsteps1and2,above.Markelastictodesiredlength;donotcut.Positionelasticwithinfoldedcasingarea.Stitchnexttoelastic,usingstraightstitchandzipperfoot,leaving2"(5cm)unstitched;donotcatchelasticinstitching.
Pullelasticthroughtomarking;secure,usingsafetypin.Tryongarmenttocheckfit;adjustelastic,ifnecessary.Cutandjoinendsofelastic(page203).Completewaistbandstitching.Stitchintheditchasinstep4.
HowtoSewaCut-onWaistbandwithTopstitching
Extendgarmentpatternpiecesabovewaistlinetwicethewidthoftheelastic.Cutoutgarmentsections,andstitchtogether.Joinendsofelastic(page203).
Divideelasticandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Pinelastictowrongsideofgarment,withedgeseven,matchingpinmarks;overlockorzigzag,stretchingelastictofitbetweenpins.Ifusingoverlockmachine,guideworkcarefullyordisengageknivestoavoidcuttingelastic.
Foldelastictowrongsideofgarmentsofabricencaseselastic.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchintheditchthroughallwaistbandlayers,atcenterfront,centerback,andsideseams,tosecureelastic.
Topstitchthroughalllayers,stretchingelasticasyousew.Straight-stitchornarrowzigzagclosetoloweredgeofcasing,usinglongstitches ;zigzagclosetoloweredge,usingmedium-to-widestitches ;double-needletopstitchclosetoloweredge ;orstitchmultiple,evenrowsofstraightstitchingordouble-needlestitching.
Drawstring-elasticmethod.
Extendpatternpiecesasinstep1,above.Joinendsofdrawstringelastic,usingoverlappedmethod(page203).Stitchgarmentsectionstogether,leaving½"(1.3cm)openingincenterfrontseamindrawstringarea;topstitcharoundopeningtosecure.
Followstep2,above.Zigzagatloweredgeofelastic.Foldelastictowrongsideofgarmentsofabricencaseselastic.Straight-stitch¼"(6mm)fromupperandloweredgesofelastic,throughalllayers,stretchingelastictofit.Pulldrawstringthroughcenterfrontopening.Cutdrawstring,andknotends.
HowtoSewaSmoothSeparateWaistband
Markcuttinglineongarmentsectionpatternpieces5/8"(1.5cm)abovewaistline.Cutwaistbandoncrosswisegrain,twicethewidthofelasticplus1¼"(3.2cm);lengthofwaistbandisequaltoyourwaistmeasurementplus3¼"(8cm).Pinendsofwaistbandtogetherwith5/8"(1.5cm)seamallowances;checkfitoverhips.
Joinendsofwaistband;pressseamopen.Dividewaistbandandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Pinwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,withrawedgeseven,matchingpinmarks.Stitch5/8"(1.5cm)seam,usingstraightstitchornarrowzigzagstitch;ifusingstraightstitch,stretchfabricasyousew.
Joinendsofelastic(page203).Divideelasticandgarmentedgeintofourths;pin-mark.Placeelasticonseamallowanceofwaistband;pininplace,withloweredgeofelasticjustaboveseamline.Withelasticontop,stitchthroughbothseamallowances,usingwidezigzagormultiplezigzagstitch;stretchelastictofitbetweenpins.Trimseamallowances.
Foldwaistbandtightlyoverelastictowrongsideofgarment;pin.Stitchintheditchalongseamlinefromrightsideofgarment,stretchingelastic;catchwaistbandinstitchingonwrongsideofgarment,butdonotcatchelastic.Trimwaistbandseamallowanceto¼"(6mm)fromstitching.
HowtoSewaShirredSeparateWaistband
Markcuttinglineongarmentsectionpatternpieces5/8"(1.5cm)abovewaistline.Cutwaistbandoncrosswisegrain,twicethewidthofelasticplus1¼"(3.2cm);lengthofwaistbandisequaltoyourhipmeasurementplus1¼"(3.2cm).Joinendsofelastic(page203).
Joinendsofwaistbandin5/8"(1.5cm)seam;pressseamopen.Dividethewaistbandandgarmentedgesintofourths;pin-mark.Foldthewaistbandinhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether,encasingelastic.Baste½"(1.3cm)fromrawedges,avoidingpins;shiftfabricaroundelasticasnecessary.
Pinwaistbandtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks;ifgarmentisveryfull,gatherwaistlineedgebeforeattachingwaistband.Stitchjustinsidebastingstitches,stretchingwaistbandtofitgarmentbetweenpins.Trimseamallowancesto¼"(6mm).Overlockrawedges,ifdesired.
Stretchwaistbandtodistributefabricevenly.Fromrightsideofgarment,stitchperpendiculartothewaistlinethroughallwaistbandlayers,atthecenterbackandsideseams,tosecuretheelastic.Ifdesired,topstitchthroughalllayersasonpage205,step4.
RIBBEDEDGES
Themostcommonuseforribbingistofinishtheedgesofknitsportsweargarments.Ribbing,whichhasgreatcrosswisestretchandrecovery,enablesgarmentopeningstostretcheasilywhenyouaregettingdressedandreturntoaneat,comfortablefitduringwear.Ribbingisavailableasyardageandasprefinishedribbedbands.
Thewidthofribbingyardagerangesfrom28"to60"(71to152.5cm),or14"to30"(35.5to76cm)tubular,andisavailableinseveralweights.Touseribbingyardage,cutacrosswisestripofthefabric,folditinhalflengthwise,andapplyitsothefoldbecomesthefinishededge.
Prefinishedribbedbandshaveonefinishededgeandareappliedasasinglelayer.Theyareavailableinvariouswidthsandlengths,andindifferentweightsandstyles.
Ribbingcanbeusedasanedgefinishforseveralstylesofnecklines,includingturtleneck,mockturtleneck,crewneck,andscoop-neck.Itisalsousedonsleeves,loweredgesofTshirtsandsweatshirts,andwaistlinesofpantsandskirts.Thecutwidthandcutlengthoftheribbingvaries,dependingonwhereitwillbeusedandthestyleyouwant.
Ifyouuseribbingyardage,thecutwidthoftheribbingisequaltotwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus½"(1.3cm)forseamallowances.Ifyouuseprefinishedribbedbands,thecutwidthisequaltothedesiredfinishedwidthplusone¼"(6mm)seamallowance.
Manypatternsdesignedforknitsindicatewhatlengthtocuttheribbing,ortheyprovideapatternpiecetobeusedasaguidefortheribbingpieces.Thecutlengthforribbingcanalsobedeterminedbymeasuringthegarmentopeningattheseamline,asshownopposite.
Forstraight,close-fittingedges,thecutlengthcanbedeterminedbypin-fittingtheribbingonthebody.Onstraightedgesthatdonotrequireaclosefit,suchastheloweredgeofaskirt,cuttheribbingslightlyshorterthanthegarmentedge.
Tosewribbededges,youmayuseeithertheflatorthein-the-roundmethodofconstruction.Flatconstructionisthefastestmethod;however,theseamsmaybenoticeableattheedgesoftheribbing.Forabetter-qualityfinish,thein-the-roundmethodisusuallypreferred.Withthismethod,theribbingseamsareenclosedforaneaterappearance.
Ifmatchingribbingisnotavailable,self-fabric,cutonthecrosswisegrain,canbesubstitutedforribbingyardage.Useaknitfabricthatstretchesatleast50percentcrosswise;forexample,10"(25.5cm)ofknitmuststretchtoatleast15"(38cm).
HowtoDeterminetheCutLength
Measureseamlineofgarmentopeningbystandingtapemeasureonedge.Fornecklines,cutribbingasdescribedatright.Forothergarmentopenings,ribbingisusuallycuttwo-thirdsofthemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).Ifself-fabricissubstitutedforribbing,cutitthree-fourthsofthemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).
Pin-fitribbingorself-fabricaroundbodyforstraight,close-fittingedges,suchasathiplines,wrists,andankles.Foldribbingcrosswisefordoublethickness,andpinribbingsoitliesflat,withoutgaping;donotdistorttheribs.Add½"(1.3cm)forseamallowances.
TypesofRibbedNecklines
Crewneckgarments usuallyhaveribbingwithafinishedwidthof1"to1¼"(2.5to3.2cm);thenecklineseamfalls¾"(2cm)belowthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingtwo-thirdsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).
Turtleneckgarments haveribbingwithafinishedwidthof4"to6"(10to15cm).Thenecklineseamfallsatthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingthelengthofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).
Mockturtleneckgarments haveribbingwithafinishedwidthof2"to23/8"(5to6cm).Thenecklineseamfalls½"(1.3cm)belowthenaturalneckline.Cuttheribbingthree-fourthsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).
Scoop-neckgarments haveroundednecklines,withtheedgeoftheribbingfallinglowerthanthenaturalnecklineinthefrontand,sometimes,intheback.Cuttheribbingtwo-thirdsofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm).Thefinishedwidthoftheribbingvariesfrom¾"to1"(2to2.5cm).
Self-fabricmaybeusedinsteadofribbing.Forturtlenecks,cuttheself-fabricthelengthofthenecklinemeasurementplus½"(1.3cm);forcrewnecks,mockturtlenecks,andscoopnecks,cutitthree-fourthsofthenecklineplus½"(1.3cm).
HowtoSewRibbedEdges(flatmethod)
Cutgarmentpieces,allowing¼"(6mm)seamallowancesatgarmentopenings.Leaveoneseamunstitched.Ifusingribbingyardage,foldribbinginhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether.Divideribbingandgarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.
Pinribbingtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks.Withribbingontop,stitch¼"(6mm)seam,usingnarrowzigzagoroverlockstitch;stretchribbingtofitgarmentopeningasyousew.Lightlypressseamtowardgarment.
Stitchremaininggarmentseam,matchingribbingseamandendscarefully.Ifdesired,topstitchclosetoseamlineasinstep3,below.
HowtoSewRibbedEdges(in-the-roundmethod)
Joinendsofribbingin¼"(6mm)seam.Ifusingribbingyardage,foldribbinginhalflengthwise,wrongsidestogether.Divideribbingandgarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.
Pinribbingtorightsideofgarment,matchingpinmarks.Withribbingontop,stitch¼"(6mm)seam,usingnarrowzigzagoroverlockstitch;stretchribbingtofitgarmentopeningasyousew.Lightlypressseamtowardgarment.
Topstitchclosetoseamline,ifdesired,stitchingthroughgarmentandseamallowances,usingsingleordoubleneedle.Ifsingleneedleisused,stretchfabricslightlyasyousew.
HowtoApplyLappedRibbingtoaV-Neckline
Cutribbingslightlylongerthanthecutedgeofneckline.Withshortstitches,staystitchontheseamline2"(5cm)oneithersideoftheV.ClipcarefullytotheV.Foldribbinginhalflengthwise.
Pinribbingtoright-handsideofnecklinein¼"(6mm)seam;leave1"(2.5cm)forlapping.Withgarmentontop,beginstitchingatcenterfront.Stretchribbingslightlyasyousew.
Stopstitchingatshoulderseam.Measurebacknecklinebetweenshoulderseams.Markribbingwithpinatpointequaltotwo-thirdsthemeasuredlength.Matchpinmarktoshoulderseam.
Stitchribbingtogarmentacrossbacknecklineanddownleft-handsideofneckline,stretchingribbingslightly.StopstitchingbeforereachingpointofV,leavinganopeningequaltowidthofribbing.Removegarmentfrommachine.
Turnribbingseamtoinsideandthenlaygarmentoutflat.Tucktheextensionsinsidetheseamopeningwithright-handsideoverlappingleft.Pinribbingatcenterfrontinlappedposition.
Foldfrontofgarmentoutoftheway.Fromwrongside,stitchopeningclosed;pivotatpointofV,andstitchfreeendofribbingtorighthandseamallowance.Trimextensionsclosetostitches.
SWIMSUITSANDLEOTARDS
Patternsforswimsuitsandleotardsareusuallycloselyfittedforcomfortandeasymotion.Awiderangeofpatternstylesisavailable.Styleswithprincessseamsareslenderizing.Soarepatternswithacenterpanelofacontrastingcolor;tominimizehips,useadarkcolorforthesidepanels.High-cutlegopeningsonswimsuitsandleotardsgivetheappearanceoflongerlegsandaslimmertorso.Forafull-bustedfigure,chooseapatternwithabustlineshapedbydartsorseams.Tofilloutaslenderfigure,useapatternwithshirring,draping,orruffles.Orchooseasimplepatternstyleandasplashyprintedfabrictoenhanceaslenderfigure.
Bysewingyourownswimsuitsandleotards,youcanmakegarmentsthatmeetyourneeds.Addafullfrontliningtoaswimsuit,ifdesired;thisisespeciallyimportantforlightcoloredandlightweightfabrics.Oryoumaylinejustthecrotchareaoraddabandeaulininginthebustarea.Purchasedbracupsmaybesewnintothebandeauiffirmersupportisdesired.
Two-waystretchfabricstretchestofitthecontoursofmanydifferentfiguretypes.Selectthepatternaccordingtothebustmeasurementtoavoidextensivefittingadjustmentsatthebustline.Ifyourequiredifferentpatternsizesforthehipsandthebust,chooseamultisizepattern,followingthecuttinglinesfortheappropriatesizesandblendingthelinesinthewaistlinearea.
AdjustingthePattern
Forone-pieceswimsuitsandleotards,measureyourtorsolengthasshown,below,andcompareittothetorsolengthsgiveninthechartatright;donotmeasurethepatternpiecesforthiscomparison,becausetheywillmeasurelessthantheactualbodymeasurement.Ifyourtorsomeasurementfallswithintherangegivenforyourbustsize,nopatternadjustmentisneeded.
Ifyourtorsomeasurementisdifferentfromthelengthgiveninthechart,firstadjustthepatternfrontanamountequaltoone-fourththedifference,thenadjustthepatternbackthesameamount.Thetotalpatternadjustmentisonlyone-halfthedifferencebetweenyourtorsomeasurementandthechart;thetwo-waystretchfabricwillbestretchedwhenitisworn,automaticallygivingyoutherestofthelengthneeded.Ifeachpatternpiecehastwoadjustmentlines,dividethetotalamountofadjustmentneededequallyamongallfourlines.
Liningscanlimitthestretchoftheswimsuitfabric,soifyouaregoingtolinethefrontofaswimsuit,addanextra½"(1.3cm)oflengthtothefrontandbackpatternpieces.
ComparisonofBustSizeandTorsoLength
HowtoAdjusttheTorsoLengthonthePattern
Measurefromindentationatbreastboneinfront;bringtapemeasurebetweenyourlegstoprominentboneatbackofneck.Keepthetapemeasuresnugtoduplicatefitoffinishedgarment.Itishelpfultohavesomeonehelpyoutakethismeasurement.
Determinethedifferencebetweenyourtorsomeasurementandthetorsolengthgiveninthechart,above,thatcorrespondstoyourbustsize.Thepatternneedstobeadjustedanamountequaltoone-halfthedifference;distributethisamountequallyamongthepatternadjustmentlines.
Adjustthepattern,addingorsubtractinglengthtothepatternbyspreadingoroverlappingfrontandbackpatternpiecesontheadjustmentlines.Intheexampleshownhere,frontandbackpiecesarelengthened¼"(6mm)oneachadjustmentlineforatotaladjustmentof1"(2.5cm).
SewingSwimsuitsandLeotards
Beforelayingoutaswimsuitorleotardpattern,determinewhichdirectionofthefabrichasthegreateramountofstretch.Nylon/spandexknitsusuallystretchmoreinthelengthwisedirection;cotton/spandex,inthecrosswise.Foracomfortablefit,layoutthepatternonthefabricsothegreateramountofstretchwillencirclethebody.
Swimsuitsandleotardsarefastandeasytosew.Moststyleshaveonlyafewseamsandedgefinishes.Stitchthesideseamsandcrotchseamfirst;thentryonthegarmentandadjustthefitasneeded.
Ifaone-pieceswimsuitorleotardistoolonginthetorso,shortenitattheshoulderseams;ifthisraisestheneckline,theneckopeningcanbetrimmedasnecessary.Ifthearmholesaretoosmall,causingthegarmenttobindunderthearms,enlargethembytrimmingtheopenings.Legopeningsshouldfitsmoothly;iftheyaretoolarge,takeinthesideseamsattheloweredge,taperingtheseamsgradually.Stitchtheshoulderseamsafterthefitting,andapplytheelastic(pages216and217).
HowtoSewaBasicOne-pieceSwimsuitorLeotard
Determinewhetherthefabricstretchesmoreonlengthwiseorcrosswisegrain.Layoutpatternonfabricsothegreateramountofstretchwillencirclethebody.
Stitchcenterbackseam;thenstitchcrotchseam,applyingcrotchliningifdesired.Stitchsideseams.Checkgarmentforfit,opposite.
Applyfull-frontlining,ifdesired.Stitchshoulderseams.Applyelastictogarmentopenings(pages216and217).
HowtoSewaBasicTwo-pieceSwimsuit
Layoutthepatternasinstep1,opposite.Stitchseams,andmachine-basteliningtowrongsideofswimsuittop,bastingadistanceequaltowidthofelasticfromrawedges;trimliningclosetothestitching.Centerboning,ifused,onsideseamallowance,positionedsotheendswillcurveawayfrombody.Stitchoverpreviousstitchesalonginneredgeofboning.
Applyelastictoedgesofswimsuittop(pages216and217).Makestraps;stitchtogarment,usingnarrowzigzagstitch.Pullrightendthroughswimsuithook,folding½"(1.3cm)towrongside;zigzagacrossend.Foldleftend½"(1.3cm)towrongside;zigzaginplace.Garmentdetails,suchascenterfrontdetail,aresewnfollowingpattern.
Stitchcenterbackseamoftheswimsuitbottom.Applyfull-frontlining,ifdesired.Applyelastictoupperedgeandlegopeningsofswimsuitbottom(pages216and217).
AdjustingforaGoodFit
Adjustshoulderseamsforsnugfitifgarmentistoolongintorso.Adjustneckopeningifshoulderadjustmentraisedtheneckline,markingadjustmentwithchalk,thentrimmingonmarkedlines.
Adjustarmholeopeningsifthegarmentbindsunderthearms,markingtheadjustmentwithchalk,thentrimmingawayexcessfabric.
Adjustsideseams,ifnecessary,solegopeningsfitsnuglybeforetheelasticisapplied.
ElasticizedEdges
Tostabilizeedgesandtoensureasnugfitonswimsuitsandleotards,useelasticatnecklines,armholes,waistlines,andlegopenings.Elasticizededgesalsoallowyoutoslipthegarmentonandoffeasily.Althoughelasticizededgesdoself-adjusttoyourfigure,donotdependonthemtosolvefittingproblems.
Ifyouhavenotadjustedtheneckline,armhole,orlegopenings,cuttheelastictothelengthsspecifiedbythepattern.Ifyouhavechangedthesizeoftheopenings,followtheguidelinesgiveninthechartbelow.Mostpatternsprintthecuttinginformationfortheelasticontheguidesheetorprovideacuttingguideonthepatterntissue.Ifusingapatternwithseveralviews,besuretocuttheelasticforthestyleyouhavechosen;forexample,ahigh-cutlegopeningrequireslongerelasticthanastandardlegopening.
Cottonbraidedswimwearelasticortransparentelasticmaybeused.Bothtypesofelastic,withexcellentstretchandrecovery,arechlorineresistantandsalt-resistant.Mostpatternscallfor3/8"(1cm)elasticforadults’swimwearand¼"(6mm)elasticforchildren’s.
GuidelinesforCuttingElastic
HowtoApplyElastic
Necklineorwaistlineopenings.
Joinendsofelastic,usingoverlappedmethod(page203).Divideelasticintofourths;pin-mark,withonepinnexttojoinedendsofelastic.Dividegarmentopeningintofourths;pin-mark.Seamsmaynotbehalfwaybetweencenterfrontandcenterback.
Pinelastictowrongsideoffabric,matchingedgesandpinmarks.Placejoinedendsatcenterbackofnecklineorwaistline.
Stitchouteredgeofelastictothegarment,usingoverlockornarrowzigzagstitch;stretchelastictofitbetweenpins.Ifusingoverlockmachine,guideworkcarefullyordisengageknivestoavoidcuttingelastic.
Foldelastictowardinsideofgarment,encasingitingarmentfabric.
Stitchthroughalllayers,¼"(6mm)fromfoldededge,usinglongstraightstitchesornarrowzigzagstitches,stretchingasyousew.Ortopstitch,usingdoubleneedle.
Legopenings.Joinendsofelastic(page203).Pinelastictolegopening,withjointatsideseam.Keepelasticrelaxedongarmentfront;remainingelasticwillstretchtofitthebackoflegopening.Followsteps3to5,stretchingelasticasyousew.
HOMEDECORATING
DecoratorFabricsDecoratorfabricshavecharacteristicsnotfoundinfashionfabrics.Threadcounts,meaningthenumberofthreadspersquareinch(centimeter),aregenerallyhigherindecoratorfabrics,makingthemstronger.Stainresistantfinishesareusuallyappliedtodecoratorfabrics,sincetheymustgoforlongperiodsoftimewithoutbeingcleaned.Whencleaningisnecessary,mostdecoratorfabricsmustbedrycleanedtoavoidshrinkage.
Theweavepattern,fibercontent,andweightofthefabricwillhaveanimpactonthefinishedappearanceanddurabilityofhomedécoritems.Forwindowtreatments,thesefabriccharacteristicswillalsodeterminehowtheycontrollightandprivacy.
Lightweightopenweavesincludecasements,laces,eyelets,andsheers.Oftenthesefabricsarewovenin118"(300cm)widths,withthewidthintendedtorunvertically,allowingyoutomakefloor-lengthsheercurtainswithoutseams.Noveltysheershaveinterestingtexturalfeatures,sometimesarrangedinstripes.Mostsheersaremadeofpolyesterforstrengthandstability,thoughtheymayalsocontainotherdecorativefibers.Naturalfibers,includingcottonandlinen,arealsousedforsheerandlightweightfabrics.
Medium-weightfabricsincludeawiderangeoffibercontentsandweave
structures.Plainweaves maybesolidincolororprinted.Theirstrengthisdeterminedbytheclosenessoftheyarnsintheweave.Satin
weaves arewovensothatwarpyarnsfloatonthesurfaceovertwo
orthreeweftyarns,givingthefabricasubtlesheen.Theyalsomaybe
solidincolororprinted.Jacquardweaves ,includingdamasks,
tapestries,andbrocades,havewoven-indesigns.Noveltyweavesoftensolidcolors,featuretexturalinterestcreatedbycomplicatedweavepatterns.Thesefabricsareveryversatileinanydecoratingscheme.
Decoratorpilefabrics ,suchassuede,corduroy,andchenille,haveinterestingsurfacetextures.Theyareusuallyheavierthantheirfashion-fabriccounterparts.
Decoratorfabricsfortheinteriorareoftenmadeofnaturalfibers,whichincludecotton,linen,silk,andwool.Naturalfibersarebreathable,comfortable,andeasytosew.Unfortunately,thesefabricsdon’tperformwellforporches,sunrooms,oroutdoors.Tokeepupwiththestrongtrendtowardoutdoordecorating,manufacturersarealsomakingwater-repellant,fade-resistant,acrylicorpolyesterdecoratorfabricsthatlookandfeellikeinteriorfabrics.Theyarecolorfastandaretreatedtoresiststainsandmildew.
Performancefabricsintendedforuseoutdoorslookandfeellikeinteriordecoratorfabricsandareavailableinsomeofthesameprintsandcolors.
FabricPreparation
Preshrinkanydry-clean-onlyfabricsbysteaming.Movetheironevenlyalongthegrainlines,hoveringjustabovethesurfaceofthefabric.Allowthefabrictodrybeforemovingit.Preshrinkwashablefabricsbywashinganddryinginthesamewayyouintendtocareforthefinisheditem.
CUTTINGDECORATORFABRICS
Afterpreshrinking,straightenthecutendsofthefabric,usingoneofthethreemethodsatright.Thenmarktheothercuttinglines,usingthestraightenededgeasaguide.Beforecuttingfull-widthpiecesoffabricforlargehomedécorprojects,suchastablecloths,curtains,orbedcovers,pinmarktheplacementofeachcutalongtheselvage.Markoutpiecesforsmallerprojects,suchaspillowsornapkins,withchalk.Doublecheckyourmeasurementsandinspectthefabricforflaws.Onceyouhavecutintothefabric,youcannotreturnit.
Toensurethatlargedécoritemswillhangorlaystraight,thefabriclengthsmustbecuton-grain.Thismeansthatthecutsaremadealongtheexactcrosswisegrainofthefabric.Patterneddecoratorfabricsarecutfollowingthepatternrepeatratherthanthegrainlinesomakesurethefabricyoubuyisprintedon-grain.
Fortightlywovenfabricswithoutamatchablepattern,markstraightcutsonthecrosswisegrain,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Alignoneedgetoaselvageandmarkalongtheperpendicularside.
Forlooselywovenfabrics,suchaslinentableclothfabric,pulloutayarnalongthecrosswisegrain,fromselvagetoselvage.Cutalongthelineleftbythemissingyarn.
Fortightlywovenpatterneddecoratorfabric,markbothselvagesattheexactsamepointinthepatternrepeat.Usingalongstraightedge,drawalineconnectingthetwopoints.Ifyouwillbestitchingtwoormorefullwidthsoffabrictogether,makeallthecutsatthesamelocationintherepeat.Thisusuallymeansthatyoucutthepieceslongerthannecessary,stitchthemtogether,andthentrimthemtothenecessarylength.
WORKINGWITHPATTERNEDFABRICS
Patterneddecoratorfabricsaredesignedtomatchattheseam.Cutsaremadeacrossthefabric,fromselvagetoselvage,followingthepatternrepeatratherthanthefabricgrain,soitisveryimportanttopurchasefabricthathasbeenprintedongrain.Fabricsthatareprintedslightlyoffgraincanusuallybecorrectedbystretchingdiagonally,unlesstheyhaveapolishedfinish.
Thepatternrepeatisthelengthwisedistancefromonedistinctivepointinthepattern,suchasthetipofaparticularpetalinafloralpattern,tothesamepointinthenextpatterndesign.Somepatternedfabricshavepatternrepeatmarkings(+)printedontheselvage.Thesemarkingsindicatethebeginningofeachpatternrepeat,andtheyareespeciallyhelpfulforfabricsthatincludeseveralsimilardesigns.
Whensewinglargeitemssuchascurtainsorduvetcovers,extrayardageisusuallyneededtomatchthepattern.Addtheamountsneededforanyhems,rodpockets,headings,ease,andseamallowancestothefinishedlength,todeterminehowlongthelengthsoffabricneedtobe.Thenroundthismeasurementuptothenextnumberdivisiblebythesizeofthepatternrepeattodeterminethecutlength.Forexample,ifthe
patternrepeat is24"(61cm),andtheneededlength is45"(115
cm),theactualcutlength is48"(122cm).Tohavepatternsmatchfromonepaneltothenext,eachpanelmustbecutatexactlythesamepointofthepatternrepeat.
Tocalculatetheamountoffabricneeded,multiplythecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsrequiredfortheproject;addoneadditionalpatternrepeatsoyoucanadjusttheplacementofthepatternonthecutlengths.Thisisthetotalfabriclengthininches(centimeters);dividethismeasurementby36"(100cm)todeterminethenumberofyards(meters)required.
HowtoMatchaPatternedFabric
Placetwofabricwidthsrightsidestogether,aligningtheselvages.Foldbacktheupperselvageuntilthepatternmatches.Adjustthetoplayerslightlyupordownsothatthepatternlinesupexactly.Pressthefoldline.
Unfoldthepressedselvage,andpinthefabricwidthstogether,insertingthepinsinandparalleltothefoldline.
Turnthefabricover,andcheckthematchfromtherightside.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.
Repinthefabricsothepinsareperpendiculartothefoldline.Stitchtheseamfollowingthefoldline;removethepinsasyoucometothem.
Checkthematchfromtherightsideagain.Makeanynecessaryadjustments.Trimawaytheselvages,cuttingtheseamallowancesto½"(1.3cm).
Trimtheentirefabricpaneltothenecessarycutlengthasdeterminedintheprojectinstructions.(Rememberyourinitialcutlengthforthepatternedfabricincludedextralengthtoaccommodatethepatternrepeat.)
SEAMS
Allseamsinhomedécorsewingare½"(1.3cm)unlessotherwisespecified.Tosecurestraightseams,backstitchafewstitchesateachend.Formostprojects,avoidusingtheselvageasaseamallowanceedge.Thoughthistightlywoven,nonravelingedgewouldeliminatetheneedforextrafinishing,itwillmaketheseampuckerandmayshrinkexcessivelywhensteamedorlaundered.Theexceptiontothisruleisstitchinglongseamsinlooselywovenfabricssuchascasementsorlaces.
Longseamstendtopuckerinsomefabrics.Topreventthis,practicetautsewing.Asyousew,pullequallyonthefabricinfrontandbackoftheneedleasifthefabricwereinanembroideryhoop.Donotstretch.Pullthefabrictaut,andletitfeedthroughthemachineonitsown.
Thefollowingseamsarethemostcommonlyusedseamsforhomedecoratorsewing.
SeamsforHomeDécorSewing
Plainseam,pressedopen,issuitableforalmosteveryfabricandapplicationwhenyouplantoenclosetheseamorcoveritwithlining.Iftheseamallowanceswillbeexposedoriftheitemwillbelaunderedoften,finishtheseamallowanceswithazigzagoroverlockwithaserger.
Plainseam,pressedtooneside,ismostcommonlyusedforwindowtreatments.Theseamallowancesarepressedtowardthereturnedgeofthecurtain(awayfromthecenterofthewindow).Finishtheseamallowanceedgestogether,especiallyiftheitemwillnotbelinedorifthefabrictendstoravel.
4-Threador5-threadsafetystitchonasergertrimstheseamallowancestoauniformwidthwhilestitchingaseamandovercastingtheseamallowancestogether.Usethisstitchforcurtainsoranyitemwheretheseamallowancesareexposed.
Narrowzigzagstitchisusedforlongseamsinlooselywovenfabricsorlaces.Thezigzagallowstheseamtorelaxslightlyandpreventspuckers.Ifremovingtheselvageswouldcauseexcessiveraveling,leavetheselvagesonandclipthemuptothestitchinglineevery1"to6"(2.5to15cm)toallowthemtorelax.
Frenchseameliminatesrawedgesbyencasingthem.Itisespeciallysuitableforlightweight,sheer,andlooselywovenfabricswhentheitemwillbelaunderedorexposedtoabrasion.Thisseamisalsousedforfashionsewing(page106),however,forhomedécorsewing,wheretheseamallowancesareonly½"(1.3cm),two¼"(6mm)seamallowancesaresewn.
PillowsPillowscomeinseveralbasicstyles:knife-edge,mockbox,flange,box,andbolster.Fromthesestyles,youcandesigncountlesspillowsinawiderangeoffabrics,usingdecorativetechniquesandembellishmentstosuiteverydécor,mood,andbudget.
Theinstructionsforeachstyledescribedinthissectionareforapillowcoverthatisstitchedclosed.Ifyouthinkyou’llneverneedtoremovethestuffingtocleanthepillowcover,thisisasuitablefinish.Forpillowcoversthatareremovable,seethesectiononclosures(pages240to245).
Pillowcoverscanbemadetofitready-madesquare,rectangular,androundpillowforms.Ifyouwantthepillowtobeplumpandfirm,planthefinishedsizetobeatleast1"(2.5cm)smallerthanthepillowformsize.Ifyoupreferthatyourpillowbesofterandlessplump,planthefinishedsizetobethesameastheform.Forpillowsinnonstandardsizesandshapes,youcanmakeformstofitandfillthemwiththeloosestuffingofyourchoice.Forpillowswithoutremovableinserts,stuffthefillingdirectlyintothepillowcover.
FormsandFillings
Pillowsgettheirshapefromnaturalorsyntheticfillings.Dependingontheshape,size,andpurposeofapillow,youcanfillitwithloosefillingorwithapillowform.Formsaregreatforpillowsthatwillbelaunderedordrycleanedbecausetheyareeasilyinsertedandremovedthroughazipperedorlappedclosure.Ifyouwanttobeabletoremovethefillingforcleaningapillowthatisanonstandardsizeorshape,makeamuslin-coveredforminthesameshapeasthepillowandfillitwiththedesiredmaterial.Loosefillingcanbestuffeddirectlyintothepillowcoverifyouintendtostitchitclosed.
Formsareavailableinknife-edgesquaresfrom10"to30"(25.5to76cm),rectangles,rounds,andbolsters.Themostexpensiveformsarefilledwithdownoramixofdownandfeathers.Down-filledpillowscanbeshapedandslouchedtoconformtothecornerofasofa.Theymoldcomfortablytoyourbodywhenyouleanonthem,buttheyarebroughtbacktobillowyplumpnesswithalittlefluffing.Polyesterfiberfillformsimitatesomefeaturesofdown,buttheyaremoreresilientorspringythandown.Fiberfillformsarelowerincost,washable,andnonallergenic.Differentbrandsoffiberfillformsvaryinqualityandprice—somearemoreplump,guaranteednottoseparateorclump,andhavefabriccoversasopposedtothinnonwovensyntheticcovers.
Manufacturedformsaren’tnecessarilyreadyforuse,especiallyiftheyseemhighthroughthecenterwithfillingthatdoesn’treachthecorners.Youcanopenaseamandadjustthefilling,ifnecessary,fillingoutthecornersandcreatingamoreeventhickness.Ifyouwantmore
plumpness,addsomeloosefiberfillbeforesewingtheformclosed.Touseaknife-edgeformforaboxormockboxpillow,movefillingoutofthecornersandfollowsteps3and4fortheMockBoxPillow,page231,stitchingfromtheoutsideoftheform.
KNIFE-EDGEPILLOWS
Theterm“knife-edge”meansthatthefrontandbackofthepillowarethesamesizeandshapeandarejoinedbyasingleseamaroundtheperimeter.Ifdesired,thatseamcanalsoincorporateadecorativeelement,suchaswelting,fringe,oraruffle.Knife-edgepillowscanbesquare,rectangular,oralmostanyshapeyouwishtocreate,thoughsomeshapesarebettersuitedtothisstylethanothers.Roundknife-edgepillows,forinstance,willpuckerunattractivelyaroundtheedge.
Squareandrectangularknife-edgepillowstendtodevelop“dogears”whentheyarestuffed,becausetheyarethickerinthecenterthanaroundtheedges.Thiseffectcanbepreventedwiththesimpleshapingtechniquedescribedinsteps2to4,opposite.
HowtoMakeaKnife-edgePillow
Determinethedesiredfinishedsizeofyourpillowandadd1"(2.5cm)inbothdirectionsforseamallowances.Cutthepillowfrontandbackalongthefabricgrainlines.
Foldthefrontintofourths.Markapointhalfwaybetweenthecornerandthefoldoneachopenside.Atthecorner,markapoint½"(1.3cm)fromeachedge.
Trimagraduallytaperingsliveroffabricfromthemarkedpointonthefabricedgetothemarkedcornerpoint.Repeatontheadjoiningsidetoshapethecorner.
Unfoldthefrontanduseitasapatternfortrimmingtheback.
Pinthepillowfronttotheback,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatthecorners.Leaveanopeningononelengthwise-grainsideforstuffingthepillow.
Ifyouwillbeinsertingapillowform,leaveanopeningabouttwo-thirdsthelengthoftheside.Forloosestuffing,asmalleropeningwilldo.
Presstheseamsflat.Thenturnbacktheupperseamallowanceandpresswiththetipoftheironinthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,pressbothseamallowancesback.
Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Squareupthecorners,usingapointturnerorsimilarpointedutensilinsertedthroughtheopening.Presslightly.
Compressandinsertthepillowform,makingsuretheformsitssquarelyinsidethecover;addfiberfillinthecorners,ifnecessary.Orstuffthepillowwiththedesiredstuffing.
Pintheopeningclosed,aligningthepressedfolds.Edgestitchbymachine.
Pintheopeningclosed,aligningthepressedfolds.Slipstitchtheopeningclosedbyhand.
TIP
Cutthroughallfourlayersatonce,ifthefabricisfairlylightweight.Forheavierfabrics,trimbothsidesofonecornerandthenuseitasapatterntotrimtheremainingthreecorners.
MOCKBOXPILLOWS
Themockboxpillow,avariationoftheknifeedgestyle,iscube-shapedwithsoft,undefinededges.Unliketheknifeedgepillowthattapersindepthtowardtheouteredges,themockboxpillowischunkierwithaconsistentdepthfromcentertosides.Thedepthiscreatedbystitchingaverticalseamineachcornerofthepillowcover,whichshortensthelengthandwidth.Thelengthofthatseamdeterminesthepillowdepth.Thelargerthepillow,thedeeperitcanbe.Forinstance,alargefloorpillowlookswellproportionedwithadepthof6"(15cm),whereasasmallersofapillowlooksbetteratadepthof2½"to3"(6.5to7.5cm).Theperimeterseamcirclesthepillowhalfwaybetweenthefrontandback.Ifdesired,thisseamcanincorporatewelting.
HowtoMakeaMockBoxPillow
Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningthesidestothefabricgrainlines.Refertothechartbelowforcutsizeguidelines.
Pinthepillowfronttotheback,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatthecorners.Leaveanopeningononelengthwise-grainsideforthestuffing.Presstheseamallowancesopen.
Pullthefrontandbackawayfromeachotheratonecorner,andrefoldthefabricsothatanewcornerisformedwiththeseamsinthecenter.Pinthroughtheseamsfromfronttobacktoensuretheyarealigned.
Measurealongtheseamandmarkapointadistancefromthecornerthatequalshalfthedesiredpillowdepth.Drawalinethroughthepoint,perpendiculartotheseam,fromfoldtofold.Thelengthofthelineequalsthetotaldesiredpillowdepth.Stitchonthemarkedline.Donottrimoffthecornertriangle.
Repeatsteps3and4ateachcorner.Repeatforthecornersofthepillowform,ifdesired.Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Inserttheformandclosetheopeningasinsteps7to9onpage229.
Thechartatrightshowsthecutsizesneededforthefinishedsizesofmockboxpillowsthatwillfitstandardpillowforms.Cutsizesinclude½"(1.3cm)seamallowances
TIP
Itishelpfultoinsertasleeverollorfirmcardboardtubeintothepillowcoverforpressingtheseamallowancesopen.
FLANGEPILLOWS
Aflangeisflatfabricthatextendsbeyondthestuffedportionofapillow.Thereareseveralwaystomakeaflange.Asingleflangeisformedfromtwolayersoffabricseamedtogetheraroundtheedge.Foradoubleflangepillow,eachflangeisself-lined.Raw-edgeflangepillowsaremadefromtwolayersofreversiblefabricsthatdonotravel,suchasfleece,felt,fauxsuede,realsuede,orleather.Individualself-linedflangestripscanbesewnintotheseamsofaknife-edgepillowtomakeapillowwithcontrastingflangesthatareinterruptedatthecorners.Theflangewidthcanvarytosuityourpillow’ssizeanddesign.Agoodwidthforsofapillowsis1½"to2½"(3.8to6.5cm);largerpillowscanhavewiderflanges.Unlessthefabricisquitestiff,however,wideflangestendtoflopforward,sothatissomethingtoconsiderifyouwanttodisplaythepillowstandingupright.Theeasiestwaytomakeaflangepillowistostitchtheopeningclosedbymachine.However,ifyouwanttobeabletoremovethepillowform,planforaplainordecorativeoverlapclosure,acenteredzipperclosureontheback,oraninvisiblezipperclosurebetweendoubleflanges.
HowtoMakeaSingleFlangePillow
Determinethefinishedsizeofthestuffedareaofthepillowplustwicethewidthoftheflange.Add1"(2.5cm)tothewidthandlengthfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesallaround.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines.
Followsteps5to7fortheknifeedgepillow(page229).Markthedepthoftheflangefromtheseamedouteredge.Pinthelayerstogetheralongthemarkedlinetokeepthemfromshifting.Stitchonthemarkedline,leavinganopeningofthesamesizeparalleltotheouteropening.
Insertthepillowformorstuffingintotheinnerarea;donotstufftheflange.
Topstitchtheinnerareaclosed,usingazipperfoot.Slipstitchtheflangeclosed,oredgestitcharoundtheentireflange.
HowtoMakeaRaw-edgeFlangePillow
Determinethefinishedsizeofthestuffedareaofthepillowplustwicethewidthoftheflange.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines,ifnecessary.
Markthedepthoftheflangeonthepillowfront.Pinthefronttotheback,wrongsidestogether,alongthemarkedlinetokeepthemfromshifting.Stitchonthemarkedline,leavinganopeningalongonesideforinsertingthepillowform.
Insertthepillowformorstuffingintotheinnerarea.Topstitchtheinnerareaclosed,usingazipperfoot.
HowtoMakeaPillowwithContrastingFlanges
Followsteps1to4foraknifeedgepillow(page229).Cutfourflangestripsthesamelengthsasthepillowsidesand1"(2.5cm)widerthantwicethedesiredwidthoftheflange.Foldeachstripinhalflengthwise,andstitch½"(1.3cm)seamsacrosstheends.Turnrightsideoutandpress.
Pintheflangestripstotheouteredgesofthepillowfront,½"(1.3cm)fromthecorners,aligningtherawedges.Basteascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheedges.
Followsteps5to9fortheknifeedgepillow(page229)tocomplete.Takecarethatthefinishedendsoftheflangesdonotgetcaughtinthestitching.
BOXPILLOWS
Boxpillowsarecube-shaped,withfrontsandbacksofthesameshapeandsizejoinedtogetherwithastripoffabricknownasaboxingstrip.Usingthistechnique,youcanmakeapillowinanyshape,includingcircles,rectangles,hexagons,triangles,hearts,andstars.Standardpillowformscanbeusedforsquareboxpillows,buttofillthepillowdepthmoreconsistently,makethepillowcoverwithawidthandlength2"(5cm)smallerthanthepillowformsize.Fornonstandardshapesandsizes,makeyourownpillowformorinsertloosestuffingdirectlyintothecover.
HowtoMakeaRectangularBoxPillow
Determinethefinishedwidth,length,anddepthofthepillow.Add1"(2.5cm)tothewidthandlengthfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesallaround.Cutoutthepillowfrontandback,aligningsidestothefabricgrainlines.Cuttheboxingstrip,withthelengthequaltothefinisheddistancearoundthepillowplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowancesandthewidthequaltothefinishedpillowdepthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Iftheboxingstripwillneedtobepieced,allow1"(2.5cm)foreachpiecingseam.
Piecetheboxingstriptogether,ifnecessary,using½"(1.3cm)seamallowances.Stitchtheshortendsofthestrip,rightsidestogether,toformacontinuousloop.Markbothlongedgesoftheboxingstripwiththelengthsofeachsideofthepillow,usinga3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowances.Donotuseajoiningseamasoneofthemarks.
Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether,rawedgeseven,matchingtheclipmarksontheboxingstriptothepillowcorners.
Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Ateachcorner,stopwiththeneedledowninthefabric,andpivotthefabric.Theclipmarkswillspread,allowingthefabrictoturnthecorner.
Pintheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,rightsidestogether,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitchtheseamasinstep4,leavinganopeningforstuffingthepillow.
Presstheseamsflat.Then,oneachseam,turnbacktheupperseamallowanceandpresswiththetipoftheironinthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,pressbothseamallowancesback.
Turnthepillowcoverrightsideout.Squareupthecorners,usingapointturnerorsimilarpointedutensilinsertedthroughtheopening.Presslightly.
Compressandinsertthepillowform,makingsuretheformsitssquarelyinsidethecover;addfiberfillinthecorners,ifnecessary.Orstuffthepillowwiththedesiredstuffing.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.
HowtoMakeaRoundBoxPillow
Makeapatternforthepillowfrontandback,usingastring-and-pencilcompass.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceallaround.Cutoutthepattern;useittocutoutthepillowfrontandback.Multiplythefinisheddiameterby3.14,androundthemeasurementuptothenearestfractionofaninch(millimeter)todeterminethefinishedlengthoftheboxingstrip;add1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuttheboxingstripthedesiredfinishedwidthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.
Stitchtheboxingstripintoacontinuousloop,asinstep2fortherectangularboxpillow.Stitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromeachedgeoftheboxingstrip.Thencliptheseamallowanceevery½"(1.3cm)upto,butnotthrough,thestitchingline.
Pin-markthepillowfront,pillowback,andboxingstripintofourths.Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether,rawedgeseven,matchingthepinmarks.Withtheboxingstripfacingup,stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.
Stitchtheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,leavinganopeningforturningandstuffing.Finishthepillowasinsteps6to8fortherectangularboxpillow,disregardingthereferencetocorners.
TIP
Theclipsallowtheboxingstriptofanoutandfitthepillowfrontedgeevenly.Keeptherawedgesoftheboxingstripalignedtotheouteredgeofthepillowfront,andstitchjusttotheleftofthefirstrowofstitching,sothatthefirstrowwillbehiddeninsidethepillowcover.
HowtoMakeaBoxPillowwithInsideCorners
Makeapatternforthepillowfrontandback,adding½"(1.3cm)forseamallowancesallaround.Measuretheentireouterseamlineandadd1"(2.5cm)todeterminethecutlengthoftheboxingstrip.Cuttheboxingstriptothedesiredwidthplus1"(2.5cm);piecetogetherasnecessary.
Marktheseamlinesatanyinnercornersofthepillowfrontandback.Usingshortstraightstitches,staystitchontheseamline,about1"(2.5cm)eachsideoftheinnercorners,pivotingatthecorners.Clipupto,butnotthrough,thestitchinglinesatthecorners.
Preparetheboxingstripasinstep2fortheroundboxpillow,left,inareaswheretheboxingstripwillfollowanoutercurve.Pintheboxingstriptothepillowfront,rightsidestogether.Stitchwiththeboxingstripfacingupinareasofstraightlinesoroutercurves.Stopstitchingwithin2"(5cm)ofanyinnercorners,andresumestitching2"(5cm)beyondthecorner.
Completethestitchingattheinnercornerswiththeboxingstripontheunderside.Stitchjusttotheinsideofthestaystitchinglines.
Attachtheothersideoftheboxingstriptothepillowback,leavinganopeningforturningandstuffing.Finishthepillow.
BOLSTERPILLOWS
Bolstersarecylindricalpillowsthatoffersupportfortheneckorlowerback.Withtheirinterestingshape,theyareagreatadditiontothe“pillowscene”andversatileenoughtobeusedonbeds,sofas,chairs,andwindowseats.Initssimplestform,abolsterismerelyarectanglesewnintoacylinderanddrawnclosedateachendwithadrawstringinacasing.Analternativeistomakethecylinderextralongandtietheendswithdecorativecordingsothepillowresemblesawrappedcandy.Inatailoredversion,thebolsterendsarecappedwithcirclesoffabric.Thecylinderitselfcanbepiecedtogetherfromtwoormorefabricsandtheseamscanbeembellishedwithweltingorotherdecoratortrims.
Bolsterformsareavailableinseveralsizes,oryoucanmakeyourown,followingstep1,page238,forasimplebolster.
HowtoMakeaSimpleBolster
Cutarectangleofbattingabout1yd.(1m)long,withthewidthequaltothedesiredfinishedlengthofthebolster.Rollthebattingwiththedesiredfirmness(thelooseryourollit,thesofterthebolsterwillbe)untilitisthedesireddiameter;cutoffanyexcess.Whipstitchthecutendtotheroll.
Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplusthediameterplus1½"(3.8cm)forcasings.
Pressunder¼"(6mm),then½"(1.3cm)oneachshortendofthefabrictoformthecasings.Unfoldtheends.Foldthefabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,beginningandendingwithbackstitches¾"(2cm)fromtheends;presstheseamopen.
Refoldthecasings.Edgestitchalongtheinnerfolds;reinforcethestitchesattheopenings.Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.
Threadnarrowcordingintothecasings.Insertthebolsterform.Drawupthecordingandtiesecurely.Tuckthecordendsinsidetheopening,ifdesired.
TIP
Ifthebolsterformisnotcompletelycoveredattheends,placepiecesofmatchingfabricovertheendsbeforetyingthecords.Thetightnessofthedrawstringwillkeeptheminplace.
HowtoMakeaCandyWrapperBolster
Makeabolsterformasinstep1forasimplebolster,ifnecessary.Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplusthreetimesthediameter.
Pressunder¼"(6mm)oneachshortend;unfold.Foldthefabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,beginningandendingwithbackstitches¾"(2cm)fromtheends;presstheseamopen.
Refold¼"(6mm)attheopenends.Foldtheendsunderhalfthediameterofthebolster.Edgestitchalongtheinnerfolds;reinforcethestitchesattheopenings.Stitchagain½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,formingacasing.
Threadnarrowcordingintothecasings.Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.Insertthebolsterform.Drawupthecordingandtiesecurely.Tuckthecordendsinsidetheopening.Tiedecorativecordingaroundthegathersateachend,ifdesired.
HowtoMakeaTailoredBolster
Makeabolsterformasinstep1forasimplebolster,ifnecessary.Cutarectangleoffabricwiththewidthequaltothecircumferenceofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthequaltothelengthofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm).Cuttwocirclesoffabricfortheendswiththediameterequaltothediameterofthebolsterformplus1"(2.5cm).
Foldtherectangleinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamonthelengthwiseedge,leavinganopeningforturningandinsertingthebolsterform;presstheseamopen.
Stitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredgeofeachendofthecylinder.Clipintothefabricevery½"(1.3cm)upto,butnotthrough,thestitchingline.
Pinacircletooneend,rightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges.Thecylinderendswillfanoutattheclips.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seam,keepingtheouteredgeseven.Youshouldbestitchingjustinsidethefirststitchingline.Repeatattheoppositeend.
Turnthebolstercoverrightsideout.Insertthebolsterform.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.
CLOSUREOPTIONS
Pillowsthatareusedforcomfort,tossedabout,andhandledalotneedclosuresthatwillallowyoutoeasilyremovethestuffingsothecoverscanbelaunderedordrycleanedoccasionally.Theoptionsincludeconventionalzippers,invisiblezippers,andlappedclosures.
Thepillowstyleinfluencestheclosurechoiceaswellastheclosurelocation.Invisiblezippers,forinstance,workwellintheseamsofplainknife-edgepillowsormockboxpillows,especiallywhenthepillowsaredecorativeonbothsides.Ifaknife-edgepillowhasweltingorruffles,though,itcanbemoredifficulttoinsertazipperintheseam.Aconventionalzipperorlappedclosureinthepillowbackwouldbeeasierinsuchcases.Ifaboxpillowneedsazipperedclosure,itisusuallyappliedintoasectionoftheboxingstripsothatthepillowisreversible.Flangepillowsthatrequireremovablecoverscanhavezippered,lapped,hookandlooptape,orbuttonedclosuresinthebackordecorativebuttonedclosuresinthefront.
Sometimestheclosureitselfisthemaindecorativefeatureofthepillow.Itemsborrowedfromthefashionworld—likefancybuttons,toggles,frogs,buckles,andfabricorribbonties—givethesehomedécorpiecesacouturetouch.
Zippers
Conventionalpolyesterzippers(nottheseparatingkind)canbeinsertedinaseambetweenpiecesofthepillowback.Theseamcanbecenteredinthepillowbackorplacedclosetooneedgesothatitislessvisible;theseamallowanceshidethezipperteeth.Invisiblezippers,whichmustbeinstalledwiththeuseofaspecialpresserfoot,areusuallyplacedintheseambetweenthepillowfrontandback,wheretheyalmostdisappear.
Makethezipperclosurelongenoughsothatremovingandinsertingthepillowformwillnotstrainthezipperends.Asageneralrule,useazipperthatisatleastthree-fourthsthepillowwidth.Zipperscanbeshortened,ifnecessary,followingthedirectionsonpage175.
HowtoInsertaConventionalZipper
Cutthepillowback1"(2.5cm)widerthanthefronttoallowfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesattheclosure.Foldthepillowbackinhalf,rightsidestogether,ifyouwanttheclosuretobecenteredinthepillowback.Foldoneedgein1¾"(4.5cm),ifyouwanttheclosurenearoneedge.Press.
Markthefoldatthelocationofthezipperstops.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,fromthepillowedgetothefirstmark;backstitch.Machine-bastetothesecondmark.Shortenthestitchlengthagainandbackstitch;thenstitchtotheoppositeedge.Cutonthefold;presstheseamallowancesopen.
Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam,withthestopsatthemarks.Glue-basteorpintotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.
Spreadthepillowbackflat,rightsideup.Markthetopandbottomofthezippercoilwithpins.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheseamfrompintopin.Topstitchanarrowrectanglealongtheedgesofthetape,usingazipperfoot.Stitchslowlyasyoucrossthezipperteethjustbeyondthestops.Removethetape.Pullthreadstotheundersideandknot.Removethebastingstitches.
Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.
HowtoMakeaZipperClosureinaBoxingStrip
Purchaseazipperthatisabout2"(5cm)shorterthanonesideofasquareboxpilloworone-thirdthecircumferenceofaroundpillow.Cutaboxingstripforthezippersection2"(5cm)widerthanthedesiredfinishedwidthoftheboxingstripandequalinlengthtothezippertape.Cutaboxingstripfortheremainingpillowcircumference1"(2.5cm)widerthanthedesiredfinishedwidthandabout6"(15cm)longerthantheremainingcircumference.
Presstheboxing/zipperstripinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Machine-baste½"(1.3cm)fromthefold.Cutonthefold;presstheseamallowancesopen.
Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam.Glue-basteorpintotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.
Turnthezipperstripfaceup.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheentireseam.Topstitchalongtheedgesofthetapefromendtoend,usingazipperfoot(noneedtocrossthezipper).Removethetape.Removethebastingstitches.
Pressunder2"(5cm)ononeshortendoftheboxingstrip.Lapthefoldovertheupperendofthezipperstriptocoverthetab.Stitchthroughallthelayers1½"(3.8cm)fromthefold.
Trimtheboxing/zipperstriptothefinishedpillowcircumferenceplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Pinthecutendtothebottomof
thezipperstrip,rightsidestogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,stitchingslowlyoverthezipperteeth.Presstheseamallowancesawayfromthezipper.Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsonpage235.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.
HowtoInsertanInvisibleZipper
Openthezipper;pressopenthezippertapefromthewrongsidetounrollthecoils.Centerthezipperalongonelongedgeofthepillowback.Marktherightsideofthepillowbackattheendsofthezippercoil;transferthemarkstothepillowfront.Markthe½"(1.3cm)seamlineonthefabric,usingremovablefabricmarkerorchalk.
Positiontheopenzipperonthepillowback,rightsidestogether,withthezippercoilalignedtotheseamlineandendsofcoilalignedtothemarks.Glue-basteorpininplace.Finishtheseamallowance,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.
Attachtheinvisiblezipperfoottothemachine;positionthetopofthezippercoilundertheappropriategrooveofthefoot.Slidethezipperfootontheadaptertoadjusttheneedlepositionsostitchingwillbeveryclosetothecoil;onheavierfabricssettheneedlepositionslightlyawayfromthecoil.Stitch,startingatthetopofthezipper,untilthezipperfoottouchesthepulltabatthebottom.
Securetheothersideofthezippertothepillowfront,asinstep2.Positionthecoilsunderthezipperfoot;slidethezipperfootontheadaptertotheoppositeside,andadjusttheneedleposition.Thebulkofthefabricwillbeontheoppositesideoftheneedle.Stitchuntilthezipperfoottouchesthetab.
Closethezipper;pinthepillowfrontandbackrightsidestogetheraboveandbelowthezipper.Adjustthezipperfoottogetascloseaspossibletothezipper.Stitchtherestoftheseam.
Openthezipper.Attachthegeneralpurposepresserfoot,andfinishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,simplyopenthezipperbeforestitchingthefinalseam.
LappedClosures
Alappedclosureissimplytwohemmededgesthatoverlap,similartothatonabutton-downshirt.Theedgescanbeheldtogetherwithfasteners,suchashookandlooptape,snaptape,orbuttons.Iftheedgesareoverlappedslightlydeeper,fastenersarenotnecessary.Closuresthatarestrictlyfunctionalcanbeplacedinthecenterofthepillowbackornearoneside.Ontheotherhand,decorativeclosuresshowingofffancybuttonsortogglescanbepositionedonthepillowfront.
HowtoSewaPlainLappedClosure
Cuttwopiecesforthepillowbackwiththelengthequaltothefinishedpillowlengthplus1"(2.5cm)andthewidthequaltohalfthefinishedpillowwidthplus3½"(9cm).Pressa1"(2.5cm)double-foldheminonelongedgeofeachbackpiece.Stitchalongtheinnerfoldofeachpiece.
Overlapthehemmededges2"(5cm),rightsidesup.Theinnerfoldswillalign.Basteacrossthehemends.Followthegeneralpillowdirectionstocompletethepillow.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,turnthepillowrightsideoutthroughtheoverlappedhems.
HowtoSewaHookandLoopTapeLappedClosure
Cuttwopiecesforthepillowbackwiththelengthequaltothefinishedpillowlengthplus1"(2.5cm)andthewidthequaltohalfthefinishedpillowwidthplus3"(7.5cm).Pressa1"(2.5cm)double-foldheminonelongedgeofeachbackpiece.Stitchalongtheinnerfoldofonepiece.
Cutstripsof¾"(2cm)hookandlooptape3"(7.5cm)shorterthanthehemmedside.Centertheloopsideofthetapeontherightsideofthestitchedhem.Stitcharoundtheouteredgesofthetape.
Unfoldthehemedgeoftheotherpillowbackpiece.Centerthehooksideofthetapeontherightsideofthefabric,betweenthetwopressedfolds;stitcharoundtheouteredgesofthetape.Refoldthehem,andstitch.
Overlapthehemsandsealthetape.Basteacrossthehemends.Followthegeneralpillowdirectionstocompletethepillow.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,unsealthetapestoturnthepillowrightsideout.
HowtoSewaButtonedClosure
Followstep1forthehookandloopclosure,butstitchbothhemsinplace.Stitchthedesirednumberofevenlyspacedbuttonholesparalleltoanddownthecenterofthehemofonepillowbackpiece(orfrontpiece,ifclosureisdecorative).Overlapthehemsandmarkthebuttonplacementthroughthecenterofeachbuttonholeontotheunderlappedhem.Sewonthebuttons.
Overlapandbuttonthehems.Basteacrossthehemends.Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthepillowstyle.Ratherthanleaveanopeningforturning,unbuttonthehemstoturnthepillowrightsideout.
HowtoSewaSnapTapeLappedClosure
Followthedirectionsforthehookandlooptapeclosure,left,butextendthesnaptapesidesintotheseamallowancesattheendsoftheopening.Besurethesnapsalignbeforestitching.
DECORATIVEEDGES
Theseamsaroundapillowaretheperfectplacefordecorativeaccents.Whiledefiningthepillow’slines,accentssuchasfabric-coveredweltingandtwistedcordweltingalsolendstabilityandgivethepillowatailored,classiclook.Rufflessoftenthepillowlinesandcreateacasual,romanticappearance.Fringes,ineverystyleimaginable,boostplainpillowsintothedesignercategory.
Welting
Cording,availableinseveralsizes,canbecoveredwithfabrictomakewelting.Chooseacordingdiameterthatwillcomplementthepillow’ssizeandshapeandworkwellwiththepillowfabric.Narrowerweltingismoretailoredandwellsuitedtosmallpillowsmadewithlightweightfabrics.Thickerweltingismorecasualandmoreprominentintheoveralldesignofthepillow.Inordertoroundcornersandfitcurvessmoothly,fabricstripsformakingweltingarecutonthebias.
Twistedcordweltingisanornatealternativetofabric-coveredwelting,andisavailableinawiderangeofstyles,colors,andsizes.Awelttape,orlip,isattachedtoadecorativecordforsewingintoaseam.Fromtherightsideofthewelting,theinneredgeofthelipisnotvisible.Foreasierstitchingandaneatappearanceonthepillowfront,theweltingisappliedtothepillowbackfirst,rightsideup.Theendsoftheweltingcanbetwistedtogethertojointheminconspicuously.
Decorativetrims,includingtwistedwelting,tendtounraveleasily.Beforecuttingthesetrimsinthefabricstore,theclerkshouldwrapthetrimwithtapeandcutthroughthecenterofthetapedarea.Likewise,whenyoubeginaproject,wrapthetrimwithtapebeforecuttingtoaworkablelength.Beforemakingfinalcuts,saturatethetrimwithliquidfraypreventerorfabricglueandallowittodrycompletely,thencutthroughthecenterofthesealedarea.
HowtoMakeFabric-coveredWelting
Foldthefabricdiagonally,aligningthecutendtotheselvage.Cutbiasstripsparalleltothefold1"(2.5cm)widerthanthecordingcircumference.Piecestripstogethertoalengthafewinches(centimeters)longerthanthedistancetobewelted.
Foldthefabricstriparoundthecording,rightsideout,aligningtherawedges.Usingacordingfootorzipperfoot,machine-basteclosetothecording.Keepthecordingstraightandsmoothasyousew.
Stitchtheweltingtotherightsideofthepillow,aligningtherawedgesandstarting2"(5cm)fromtheendofthewelting.Clipandeasetheweltingatcorners;easetheweltingaroundcurves.
Stopstitching2"(5cm)fromthepointwheretheendswillmeet.Cutoffoneendoftheweltingsoitoverlapstheotherby1"(2.5cm).
Removethestitchingfromoneendofthewelting,andtrimtheendsofthecordingsotheyjustmeet.
Foldunder½"(1.3cm)offabricontheoverlappingendofthewelting.Lapitaroundtheotherend;finishstitchingtheweltingtothepillowedge.
Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirections.Onseamsthatcarrywelting,useacordingfootorzipper.Withthewrongsideoftheweltedpiecefacingup,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.
TIP
Whenyouattachtwistedweltingtoasquareorrectangularpillow,besuretotaperthepillowcornersasinsteps2and3onpage231.
HowtoAttachTwistedCordWelting
Pinthetwistedweltingtothepillowback,rightsidesup,withthebeginningandendalongoneside(notatacorner).Markeachcornerwithapin.Removethetrim.
Hand-tacktheliptothecord¼"(6mm)fromeachsideofeachpin.Cutaway½"(1.3cm)oflipateachcornermark.Thiswillmakeiteasiertoattachtheweltingasitroundsthecorners.
Stitchthetwistedweltingtothepillowback,rightsidesup,usingazipperfoot;aligntheedgeoftheweltliptotherawedgeofthefabric.Roundthecordatthecornersandstitchonlyonthefabric.Leave1½"(3.8cm)unstitchedbetweenends;leave3"(7.5cm)tails.
Loosenthecordfromthelipintheareaofthejoin.Trimthelipendssotheyoverlap1"(2.5cm).Separatethecordplies;wraptheendofeachplywithtape.Arrangethepliessothoseontherightturnupandthoseontheleftturndown.
Insertthepliesontherightunderthecrossedlipends,twistingandpullingthemdownuntiltheweltingisreturnedtoitsoriginalshape.Secureinplaceusingtape.
Twistandpullthepliesontheleftovertherightpliesuntilthetwistedendslooklikecontinuoustwistedweltingfrombothsides.Tapeinplace.
Positionthezipperfootontheleftoftheneedle,ifpossible.Placethepillowbacktotherightoftheneedle;thiswillallowyoutostitchin
thedirectionofthecordtwists.Machine-bastethroughalllayerstosecurethewelting.Ifyouareunabletoadjustyourmachinetostitchinthisposition,removethepresserfootandstitchmanuallyoverthethickcords.Besurethepresserfootleverisdownsothethreadtensionisengaged.
Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.Onseamsthatcarrytwistedwelting,useazipperfoot.Withthewrongsideoftheweltedpiecefacingup,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.
Ruffles
Becausetheywillbevisiblefrombothsides,self-linedrufflesarebestforpillows.Tapersquarepillowcorners,asinsteps2and3onpage229,beforeattachingruffles.Thenroundthecornersratherthanpivotsharply.Thefinishedpillowwillappearsquareandtheruffleswillliemoresmoothlyaroundthecorners.
HowtoMakeRuffles
Cutstripsoffabricfortherufflesonthelengthwiseorcrosswisegrainofthefabrictwicethedesiredfinishedwidthplus1"(2.5cm).Pieceenoughstripstogethertoreachalengthtwotothreetimesthepillowcircumference;piecethestripstogetherindiagonalseamstoreducebulk.
Stitchtheendsoftherufflestriptogetherinadiagonalseam,formingacircle.Foldthestripinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Pressthefold,ifdesired,orleaveitunpressedforsofterruffles.Preparetherawedgesforgatheringbyzigzaggingoveracord,suchascrochetcottonordentalfloss,withinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.
Foldtheruffleintofourths.Makea3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowancesateachfold.Arrangetheruffleontherightsideofthepillowfront,withthezigzaggedcordontopandrawedgeseven.Forasquarepillow,matchtheclipstothecornersofthepillowfront;forarectangularpillow,matchtheclipstothecentersofthesides;foraroundpillow,matchtheclipstoquarter-marksalongtheouteredge.Pinatthemarks.
Pullupthegatheringcorduntiltherufflefitstheareasbetweenthemarks.Distributethefullnessevenly,allowingextrafullnessatthecornerssotherufflecanfanout.Pintheruffleinplace.Securethegatheringcordbywrappingtheendsaroundpins.
Machine-bastetheruffletothepillowfront,stitchingjustinsidethegatheringrow.
Finishthepillow,followingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.Onseamsthathaveruffles,withthewrongsideoftheruffledpiecefacingup,stitchjustinsidethepreviousstitchingline.
Fringe
TypesofFringe
Brushfringe isadenserowofyarns,allcuttothesamelength.Whenyouseeitinthestore,thecutedgeisusuallysecuredwithachainstitch,whichshouldbeleftintactuntilyouhavefinishedthepillow.Thestitchesaretheneasilyremovedandthebrushfringecanbefluffedoutbysteamingandgentlyrubbing.
Cutfringehasadecorativeheadingandissimilartobrushfringe,butisusuallynotasdense.Thecutyarnsofthisfringeareoftenmulticoloredinablendoffibers.
Loopfringe ismadewitheitheradecorativeorplainheadingandisavailableinavarietyoffibers.Justasthenameimplies,thefringeiscomposedofaseriesofoverlappingloopedyarns,cords,orribbons.Theloopsmaybeallthesamelengthorarrangedinapatternofvaryinglengths.
Tasselfringe isacontinuousrowofminiaturetasselsattachedtoadecorativeheading.Thetasselsareoftenseparatedbyloopsandmaybemulticoloredandmultifibered.
Ballfringe isacontinuousrowofpompomshangingfromaplainheading.Thoughrecognizedasacasualcraftfringe,somestylesofballfringearemoreornateandsuitableforembellishingpillows.
Bullionfringe isacontinuousrowoftwistedcordsattachedtoaplainordecorativeheading.Stylesrangefromveryheavy,longfringetolightweight,shortfringewithsingle-colorormulticolorcords.
Beadedfringes areverychic.Theyareavailableinmanystyles;someresemblecut,loop,orballfiberfringesbutaremadewithhundredsofbeadsinallsortsofshapes,sizes,andcolors.Beadfringeswithdecorativeheadingsorribbonscanbesewntotheoutersurfaceofapillow;thosewithaplainheadingarecaughtinouterseamswherethebeadscandangleandswish.
Featherfringe isatrendyembellishmentforpillowsthataremeanttobemoredecorativethanuseful.Thefeathersareusuallysecuredtoaplaintapethatcanbeconcealedinsideaseamorcoveredwithanothertrim.
HowtoAttachFringes
Fringewithoutdecorativeheading Taperthecornersonsquare-cornerpillows.Machine-bastethefringetotherightsideofthepillowfront,placingtheheadingwithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceandthefringefacinginward.Attheends,cutthefringebetweentheloopsandhand-stitchthecutendstopreventraveling;butttheendstogether.Finishthepillowfollowingthegeneraldirectionsforthestyle.
Fringewithdecorativeheading Beforestuffingthepillow,pinthefringearoundthefrontouteredgeofthefinishedpillowcover,aligningtheinneredgeoftheheadingtotheouteredgeofthepillow.Mitertheheadingatcorners.Iftheheadingisthickortextured,usepaper-backed,two-sidedfabricadhesive.Secureathin,flatheadingusingfabricglueorpaper-backedfusibleadhesivestrips.
SlipcoversSlipcoverscangiveyourfurnitureafreshstartwhenyouwanttochangethecolorschemeofaroom,updatefadedorwornupholstery,orsimplyalterthemoodwiththechangingoftheseasons.Whetheryouaremakingsimplediningchaircoversorafittedcoverforafutonmattress,therearesomebasictechniquesyou’lluseoverandover.Followtheseguidelinesforsuccessfulresults.
LayingOutandCuttingtheFabric
Wheneverpossible,layoutallthepatternpiecesonthefabricbeforeyoustarttocut.Thisallowsyoutorearrangethepiecesasnecessarytomakethebestuseofthefabric.
Whenapatternedfabricwithanall-overdesignisusedforslipcovers,littlematchingisrequired.Whenseamingwidthsoffabrictogether,thepatternshouldbematched.Ifapatternedfabricwithaone-waydesignisused,becarefultolaythepiecesinthecorrectdirectionofthefabric.
Centerlargemotifsinaprintfabriconthetopandbottomofthecushion.Itisusuallyimpossibletomatchafabricpatternacrossalltheseamsinaslipcover.Matchthepatternintheareasthataremostvisible,suchastheseambetweentheseatandchairbackandtheseambetweentheseatfrontandtheskirtfront.
REVERSIBLESEATCOVER
Simpleseatcoversgiveyourdiningroomorkitchenchairsafreshlook.Thesecoversaremadewithtwocoordinatingdecoratorfabrics,sotheycanbeflippedoverforaninstantdécorchange.Dartssewnatthefrontcornersshapethecoverstofitthechairseatssmoothly.Thebackcornersareheldinplacewithabuttontabthatwrapsaroundthebackoftheleg.
Thesecoverswrapoverallfouredgesoftheseat,sotheyaresuitableforarmlesschairswithstraightsidesandfrontsthatareopenbetweenthebackposts.Becausetheamountoffabricneededdependsonyourchairsizeandthefabricdesignsize,makethepatternfirstsoyou’llknowhowmuchfabrictobuy.
Whenmakingcoversfortwoormorechairs,you’llwanttocenterthesamemotifoneachseatcover.Ifyouchoosefabricwithlargemotifs,suchasthetoileshownhere,takethepatternwithyouwhenyoushopforfabric.
YOUWILLNEED
muslinformakingpatterns
twocoordinatingdecoratorfabrics,suchasaprintandastripe;amountdependsonchairsizeandfabricdesignsize fourbuttonsforeachcover,7/8"to1"(2to2.5cm)indiameter ½yd.(0.5m)grosgrainribbon,7/8"(2cm)wide,inacolortomatchthefabrics
SeatCovers
Measurethechairseatsidetosideandfronttoback.Add10"(25.5cm)ineachdirection.Cutmuslintothissizetomakeapattern.Pressthemuslinpatterninhalfinbothdirections.Unfold.Centerthepatternonthechairseat,allowingittofalldownoverthefrontandsides.Attheback,turnthepatternupalongtheposts.Ifnecessary,tapethepatterninplace.
Markadotatonefrontcorner.Pinchthefabrictogetherfromthedotdown,bringingthefronttomeettheside.Pinoutexcessfabric,insertingthepinsparalleltothechairleg,formingadart.Marklinesonbothsidesofthedartfromthedotdowntothebottom.Repeatontheotherfrontcorner.
Markdotsatthebackoftheseat,attheinsidefrontcornersofthebackposts.(Ifyourpostsareround,markeachdotatapointinlinewiththefrontandsideofthepost.)Tracetheoutlineofthechairseatonthepattern.
Removethepatternfromthechair;removethepins.Drawlines4½"(11.5cm)outsidethetracedseatlines.Atthebackcorners,drawlinesfromthedotstotheouterlines,formingsquares.(Thesewillbethestitchinglines.)Markpivotpoints(showninblue)onthestitchinglines½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredge.Drawcuttinglines½"(1.3cm)outsidethestitchinglinesatthelegsandthefrontdarts.Foldthepatterninhalftomakesureitissymmetrical,andmakeanynecessarycorrections.Cutoutthepatternontheouter
lines.
Placethepatternonthetopfabric,aligningthefront-to-backcreasewiththelengthwisegrainandtheside-to-sidecreasewiththecrosswisegrain.Positionthepatternsothattheintersectionofthecreasesisattheexactcenterofthedesignmotif,ifusingalargeprint.Cutouttheseatcovertop.Transferthepivotpointsanddartdotstothewrongsideofthefabric.
Cutouttheremainingseatcovertops,usingthefirstpieceasaguide.Thiswillmakeiteasiertocenterthedesignmotifs.Placeeachofthetopsonthebottomfabric,rightsidestogether.Pinneartheouteredges.Cutthemout;removethepins.
Foldthedartononefrontcorner,rightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges;pin.Stitchthedart.
Repeatstep7fortheremainingfrontcornersonthetopandbottompieces.Presstheseamallowancesofthedartsopen.
Placethetopandbottomseatcoversrightsidestogether,aligningtherawedges;pin.Aligntheseamsofthefrontdarts.Stitchthelayerstogether½"(1.3cm)fromtheedgeallaround,pivotingatthecorners.Leavea6"(15cm)openingalongonestraightedgeforturning.
Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyattheoutercorners.Clipto,butnotthrough,thestitchesattheinnercorners.
Turnbackthetopseamallowancesandpress,applyinglight
pressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.Intheareaoftheopening,turnbackandpresstheseamallowances½"(1.3cm)wheretheymeet.
Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughtheopening.Insertapointturnerorsimilartoolintotheopeningandgentlypushthepivotpointsouttoformperfectcorners.Pushtheseamoutsothatitiscenteredallaroundtheouteredge;press.Alignthefoldededgesoftheopeningandpinthemclosed.
Edgestitcharoundtheseatcover,stitchingtheopeningclosed;pivotatthecorners.
Markplacementlinesforthefourbuttonholesparalleltoand1"(2.5cm)abovethelowersideandbackedges.Marklinesthatequalthediameterplusthethicknessofthebuttons,withoneend1"(2.5cm)fromtheverticaledges.Attachabuttonholepresserfootorbuttonholeattachment.Stitchthebuttonholesoverthemarkedlines.Cutthebuttonholesopen,usingabuttonholecutterorsmall,sharpscissors.
Placethecoveronthechairseat.Atthebackofonechairleg,measurethedistancebetweenbuttonholes.Cutribbon4"(10cm)longerthanthismeasurement.Turnunder1"(2.5cm)twiceoneachendoftheribbon;press.Stitchacrosstheinnerfolds,formingdouble-foldhems.Stitchabuttontothecenterofeachhem.Repeatfortheotherleg.Buttonthechairseatcoverinplace.
CUSHIONS
Youcanmakeslipcoversforcushionsonbenchesorwindowseats,aswellasforthoseonsofasorchairs.Mostcushionsfallintooneofthethreestylesshownatleft:knife-edge(top),waterfall(middle),andboxed(bottom).AnyofthesestylescanbefittedflushtothefrontofthechairorT-shaped,wrappingaroundthefrontofthechairarms.
Tomakeiteasiertoinsertthecushion,installazipperacrossthebackoftheslipcover,extendingabout4"(10cm)ontoeachside.Forcushionsthatareexposedonthreesides,installazipperacrossthebackoftheslipcoveronly.Useupholsteryzippers,whichareavailableinlongerlengthsthandressmakerzippers.Forboxedandwaterfallcushions,thetabofthezipperwillbeconcealedinapocketattheendofthezipperopening.Thisisanupholsterer’stechniquethatgivesaprofessionalfinish.
Boxedandknife-edgecushionscanbesewnwithorwithoutweltingattheseams.Seepage248forinstructionsonmakingandattachingwelting.Knife-edgecushionsonchairsorsofasusuallyhaveaweltedseamaroundthecenteronsideswherethecushionisexposed.Iftherearehiddensides,suchasforaknife-edgeseatcushiononawingchair,thehiddensidesareoftenconstructedwithaboxingstrip.Waterfallcushions,morecommonincontemporaryfurniture,aresewnwithonecontinuouspieceoffabricwrappingoverthefront,fromtoptobottom.Thisstylehasaboxingstriparoundthesidesandbackandisusuallymadewithoutwelting.
Slipcoversforcushionscanoftenbeputonrightovertheexistingupholstery.Sometimes,however,itisbettertoremovetheoldcoverandinsertthecushionintothenewslipcover.Thisisabetteroptioniftheslipcoverfabricislighterweightthantheupholsteryorifthereisexistingweltingthatwillshowthroughorcausewearonthenewslipcover.
Forthebestfit,pin-fitmuslintotheexistingcushiontomakeapatternforthenewcushioncover.
CuttingDirections
Knife-edgeCushion
Ifthecushionisrectangular,fairlyflat,andsoft,likeapillow,cutacushioncovertoptothesamedimensionsastheoriginalcushionplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cutthecushioncoverbottom1"(2.5cm)longerthanthetoptoallowfor½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesatthezipperclosure.
Tocoverarectangularcushionthathasathick,firm,foaminsert,cutatopandbottomwiththewidthandlengthequaltothecushionwidthandlengthplusthefoamdepthplus1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.
Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertapewiththelengthequaltoatleastthree-fourthsofthecushionwidth,orpurchaseaconventionalzipperwiththisapproximatelength.
Cutfabricstripsfortheweltinglongenoughtofittheweltedsectionofthecushion.
WaterfallCushion
Pin-fitamuslinpatternforthecontinuoustop/bottompiece.Cutacushiontopandbottompiece,usingthepattern.Marktheendofthepiecethatwillbecomethecushiontop(withadirectionalprintornappedfabric,thefabricwillruninthecorrectdirectiononlyonthetop).
Cutthesideboxingstrips.Measuretheoriginalboxingstripbetweentheseamsandadd1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuteachboxingstripwiththelengthequaltothesidemeasurementofthecushionplus1"(2.5cm).Excesslengthwillbecutoffduringconstruction.
Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertapewiththelengthequaltothebackcushionmeasurementplus8"(20.5cm),orpurchaseanupholsteryzipperwiththisapproximatelength.Cuttwofabricstripsforthezipperclosure,withthelengthequaltothelengthofthezippertapeandthewidthequaltohalfthecutwidthoftheboxingstripplus¾"(2cm).
BoxedCushion
Cutthetopandbottompieces1"(2.5cm)largerthanthecushionsizetoallowforseamallowances.ForboxedT-cushions,pin-fitamuslinpatterntoensureaccuratecutting.
Measuretheoriginalboxingstripbetweenseamsandadd1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Cuttheboxingstripwiththelengthequaltothetotalmeasurementofthefrontandsidesofthecushion.Excesslengthwillbecutoffduringconstruction.Ifpiecingisnecessary,allow1"(2.5cm)foreachseam,planningtheplacementoftheseamsoutofviewalongthesidesofthecushion.
YOUWILLNEED
muslinformakingpatterns
decoratorfabric
zipper,about8"(20.5cm)longerthanbackedgeofcushion
fabricandcordingforfabric-coveredwelting;orbrushfringefortwistedwelting
Ifcontinuouszippertapeisused,cutthezippertape8"(20.5cm)longerthanthebackcushionmeasurement,orpurchaseanupholsteryzipperwiththisapproximatelength.Cuttwofabricstripsforthezipperclosurewiththelengthequaltothelengthofthezippertapeandthewidthequaltohalfthecutwidthoftheboxingstripplus¾"(2cm).
Ifthecushionwillbewelted,cutfabricstripsforthewelting(page248)withthelengthequaltotwicethecircumferenceofthecushionplusadditionallengthforseamingstrips,joiningends,andinconspicuouslypositioningseams.
SewingaKnife-edgeCushionCover
Foldintheloweredgeofthecushionback1¾"(4.5cm),rightsidestogether;press.Placethezipperalongsidethefoldandmarkthefoldatthelocationofthezipperstops.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromthefold,fromthesidetothefirstmark;backstitch.Machine-bastetothesecondmark;backstitch,thenfinishtheseamtotheoppositeedge.
Cutonthefold.Presstheseamallowancesopen.
Centertheclosedzipperfacedownovertheseam,withthestopsatthemarks.Glue-basteorpinthezippertapetotheseamallowancesonly.Finishtheseamallowances,catchingthezippertapeinthestitches.
Spreadthecushioncoverbackflat,rightsideup.Markthetopandbottomofthezippercoilwithpins.Centerastripof½"(1.3cm)transparenttapeovertheseamfrompintopin.Topstitchanarrowrectanglealongtheedgesofthetape,usingazipperfoot.Stitchslowlyasyoucrossthezipperjustbeyondthestops.Removethetape.Pullthreadstotheundersideandknot.Removethebastingstitches.
Makeweltingasonpage248.Sewtheweltingaroundtheouteredgeofthecushioncovertop,followingthecontinuouscirclemethod.
Openthezipperpartially.Pinthecovertopandbottomrightsidestogether.Withthewrongsideofthetopfacingup,stitchjustinsidethefirstweltingstitches,crowdingthecording.
Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.
SewingaWaterfallCushionCover
Followsteps2and3fortheboxcushiononpage260.Foldthezipperstripstraightacrossatthecorner;marktheoppositeedgewitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Repeatattheothercorner.Pinthezipperstriptothebackedgeofthecushionbottom,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitch,beginningandendingabout1½"(3.8cm)beyondthecorners.
Markthecenterofthefrontshortendofeachsideoftheboxingstrip;roundthefrontcornersofthesideboxingstripsslightly.Marktheouteredgesofthetop/bottomcushionatthecenterfront.Staystitchascant½"(1.3cm)fromtheouteredgesofthetop/bottompieceadistanceoneithersideofthemarksequaltothecushionheight.
Cliptheseamallowancestothestaystitchingevery½"(1.3cm).Pinthesideboxingstriptothetop/bottom,rightsidestogether,aligningthecentermarks.Checktoseethatcorrespondingpointsonthetop/bottommatchupdirectlyacrossfromeachotherontheboxingstrip.Sew½"(1.3cm)seam,beginningandending6"(15cm)fromthebackcorners.Repeatontheoppositeside.
Followsteps7to10onpage261.Openthezipperpartially.Finishsewingtheboxingstriptothetop/bottomonbothsides.Turnthecushioncoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.
SewingaRectangularBoxedCushionCover
Makeweltingasonpage248.Sewtheweltingaroundtheouteredgeofthecushiontopandcushionbottom,followingthecontinuouscirclemethod.
Pressunder¾"(2cm)seamallowanceononelongedgeofthezipperstrip.Positionthefoldededgeofthestripalongthecenterofthezipperteeth,rightsideup.Usingazipperfoot,topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromthefold.Repeatfortheoppositeside,makingsurefoldsmeetatthecenterofthezipper.Ifusingcontinuouszippertape,attachthezipperpulltothetape.
Centerthezipperstripoverthebackedgeofthecushiontop,rightsidestogether.Stitchthezipperstriptothecushiontop,beginningandendingonthesidesabout1½"(3.8cm)beyondthecorners.Clipintothezipperstripseamallowanceateachcornertoallowthefabrictospread,andpivot.
Alignthecenteroftheboxingstriptothefrontcenterofthecushiontop,matchingtheprint,ifnecessary;pin-markthepiecesseparately.Smooththeboxingstriptotherightfrontcorner;markwitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Smooththeboxingstripalongtherightsideofthecushiontop;pintheboxingstriptothecushiontopabout6"(15cm)fromthebackcorner.
Stitchtheboxingstriptothecushiontop,beginningatthesidepinandsewing½"(1.3cm)seam.Foraweltedcover,useaweltingfootorzipperfoot.Matchtheclipmarktothefrontcorner;pivotthestitchingatthecorner.
Continuestitchingtheboxingstriptothecushiontop,matchingthecentermarks.Cliponceintotheboxingstripseamallowanceattheleftfrontcorner;pivot.Stopstitchingabout6"(15cm)fromthebackleftcorner.
Cuttheboxingstrip4"(10cm)beyondthepointwhereitoverlapsthezipperpullendofthezipperstrip.Pintheendoftheboxingstriptotheendofthezipperstrip,rightsidestogether,matchingallcutedges.
Stitchtogether2"(5cm)fromtheend;pivotatthezippertape.Stitchalongtheouteredgeofthezippertapetowithin½"(1.3cm)oftheend;pivot.Placeasmallscrapoffabricoverthezipperteeth.Stitchslowlyacrosstheteethtotheoppositesideofthezippertape;pivot.Stitchalongtheoppositesideofthezippertapeuntil2"(5cm)fromtheend;pivot,andstitchtotheedge.
Fingerpresstheseamallowancetowardtheboxingstrip.Finishsewingthezipperstripandboxingstriptothecushiontop.Asmallpocketformstohidethezipperpullwhenthecoverisclosed.
Cuttheoppositeendoftheboxingstrip1"(2.5cm)beyondthepointwhereitoverlapstheendofthezipperstrip.Pintheendstogether.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromtheends,placingascrapoffabricoverthezipperteethandstitchingslowly.Turntheseamallowancetowardtheboxingstrip.Finishsewingthezipperstripandboxingstriptothecushiontop.
Foldtheboxingstripstraightacrossatthecorner;marktheoppositesideoftheboxingstripwitha3/8"(1cm)clipintotheseamallowance.Repeatforallthecorners.
Openthezipperpartially.Pintheboxingstriptothecushionbottom,matchingtheclipmarkstothecorners.Stitch.Turnthecoverrightsideoutthroughthezipperopening.
SewingaBoxedT-cushionCover
Cutmuslinabout4"(10cm)largerthanthetopofthecushion;markthegrainlineatthecenterofthefabric.Placethemuslinoverthecushion;pinalongtheseamline,smoothingoutthefabric.Marktheseamlinealongthepinmarks.
Removethemuslin.Truetheseamlines,usingastraightedge.Foldthemuslininhalftocheckthatthepieceissymmetrical;makeanynecessaryadjustments.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowancestothepattern.Cutthepiecesasinthecuttingdirections(page257).
Pressundera½"(1.3cm)seamallowanceononelongedgeofeachzipperstrip.Positionthefoldededgesofthestripsalongthecenterofthezipperteeth,rightsidesup.Usingazipperfoot,topstitch3/8"(1cm)fromfolds.
Pressunder2"(5cm)ononeshortendoftheboxingstrip.Laptheboxingstripoverthezipperstriptocoverthezippertab.Stitchthroughalllayers1½"(3.8cm)fromthefoldededgeoftheboxingstrip.
Makeandapplyweltingasonpage248.Stitchweltingtotherightsideoftopandbottompieces.
Placetheboxingstripontheslipcovertop,rightsidestogether;centerthezipperonthebackedge.Startstitching2"(5cm)fromthezipperend,crowdingthecording.Clipthecornersasyoucometothem;stopstitching4"(10cm)fromthestartingpoint.
Cliptomarktheseamallowancesattheendsoftheboxingstrip.Stitchtheboxingstripendstogether.Trimoffexcessfabric;fingerpresstheseamopen.Finishstitchingtheboxingstriptotheslipcovertop.
Foldtheboxingstrip,andcliptheseamallowancetomarkthelowercorners;besureallcornersarealignedwiththecornersontheslipcovertop.Openthezipper.
Placetheboxingstripandslipcoverbottomrightsidestogether.Matchtheclipsoftheboxingstriptothecornersoftheslipcoverbottom;stitch.Turnthecoverrightsideout.
Foldthecushiontoinsertitintothecover.Stretchthecoverfromfronttoback.Closethezipper.Smooththecoverfromcentertoedges.Stretchtheweltingtautfromcornertocornertosquarethecushion.
Alternativezipperplacement.
Installthezipperacrossthebackoftheslipcover,withoutextendingitaroundthesides,iftheslipcoverwillbeexposedonthreesides.
FUTONCOVER
Afutonisaffordableandmultifunctional.Itcaneasilybeconvertedfromachairorsofatoabedbychangingthepositionofthefutonframefromanuprighttoarecliningposition.Thefutonmattressoftencomeswithafabriccoverthatisnotonlydecorative,butalsoprotectsthemattressfrombecomingstainedorworn.Youcansewyourownfutonmattresscoverthatcoordinateswiththedecoratingschemeoftheroom.
Makethecoversothelengthwisegrainrunsfromtheseattotheback,ratherthanfromarmtoarm.Runtheseamsfromtheseattotheback.Foreaseininsertingorremovingthemattress,thecoverisconstructedwithazipperedclosurethatextendsalongthreesides.Custom-sizedzippersareavailablefromupholsteryshopsandmanyfabricstores.Oryoucanusecontinuouszipperstrip,cutittotherightlength,andaddthezippertab.
Workingwithlargepiecesoffabriccanbeawkward.Setupatablenexttoyoursewingcabinetortable,onyourleftside.Byholdingexcessfabricatthesameheightasthesewingmachine,itwillbeeasiertofeedthefabrictothemachineandcontroltheextraweight.
CuttingDirections
Cutthefrontandbackpiecesforthefutoncover,withthelengthandwidthofthepieces1"(2.5cm)longerandwiderthanthefinishedwidthofthefutoncover.Topiecedecoratorfabric,runafullwidthoffabricupthecenterandaddequal,partialwidthsatthesidesofboththefrontandback.
Cutonepiecefortheboxingstripthatis1"(2.5cm)longerthanthelengthofthefutoncoverand1"(2.5cm)widerthanthethicknessofthemattress.Cutonezippertab,4"(10cm)long,withthecutwidthofthetabequaltothecutwidthoftheboxingstrip.
Forthezipperedboxingononelongsideofthecover,cuttwozipperstrips,withthelengthofthestrips1"(2.5cm)longerthanthefinishedlengthofthemattress;thecutwidthofthezipperstripsis1¼"(3.2cm)widerthanone-halfthefinishedwidthoftheboxingstrip.Forthezipperedboxingontheshortsidesofthecover,cutfourzipperstrips,each1"(2.5cm)longerthanthefinishedwidthofthemattressand1¼"(3.2cm)widerthanone-halfthefinishedwidthoftheboxingstrip.
YOUWILLNEED
decoratorfabric
zipper,withthelengthofthezippertapeequaltocombinedlengthofthetwoendsandonesideofthemattressplus1"(2.5cm)
SewingtheFutonCover
Stitchoneshortzipperstriptoeachendofonelongzipperstripin½"(1.3cm)seams,rightsidestogether;startstitchingattherawedgeandstop½"(1.3cm)fromtheoppositerawedge.Finishseams,usingoverlockorzigzagstitch;pressopen.Repeat,usingremainingshortandlongzipperstrips.
Placethezipperstripsrightsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesandseams.Machine-baste¾"(2cm)fromthelongedgewherestitchingoftheendseamsextendstotherawedge.Finishseams;pressopen.
Foldthestripinhalf,rightsidestogether,withoneseamallowanceextending.Placetheclosedzipperfacedownoverseamallowances,withtheteethcenteredontheseamlineandtheendsofthezippertapeevenwiththeendsofthestrip.Machine-bastethezippertapetotheextendedseamallowance.
Unfoldthestrip.Onrightside,centerastripof¾"(2cm)transparenttapeoverseamline.Stitchonbothsidesofthetape,securingthezipper.Removethetapeandbastingstitches.
Pressthezippertabinhalf,withwrongsidestogether.Openthezipperabout2"(5cm).Atthetopendofthezipper,placethetaboverthezipperstrip,rightsidesup;stitchacrosstheend,ascant½"(1.3cm)fromtherawedges,stitchingcarefullyoverthezipperteeth.
Stitchendsoftheboxingstriptoendsofthezipperstrip,rightsidestogether,stitching½"(1.3cm)seams;startandstop½"(1.3cm)from
therawedges.Finishseams;pressopen.
Pintheboxingstriptothefutoncoverfront,rightsidestogether,matchingseamstocorners.Withtheboxingstripfaceup,stitch½"(1.3cm)seam,pivotingatcorners.
Pintheoppositesideofboxingstriptothefutoncoverback,rightsidestogether,matchingseamstocorners;stitch.Finishremainingseams.
Openthezipper;turnthefutoncoverrightsideout.Insertthefutonmattress;closethezipper,hidingthezipperpullunderthetab.
PARSONSCHAIR
Parsonschairsarepopulardiningroomchairs,withupholsteredbacksthatadjoinupholsteredseats.Thelinesareverytailoredandstraight,andthereisoftenafloor-lengthskirt.Theseone-pieceslipcoversconcealtheentirechairandhaveskirtswithinvertedboxpleatsatthecorners.
Thesedirectionsaresuitableforchairswithstraightbacks.Theupperedgeofthechairbackmustbenowiderthanthelowerback,oryouwon’tbeabletoslipthecoveron.Whenmeasuringthefrontandbackofthechairback,measureasiftherearecenteredsideseams,eveniftheseamsontheupholsteredchairarenotcentered.
Theskirtforthisstyleisself-lined,eliminatinganynoticeablehemlineandgivingtheskirtextrabody.
YOUWILLNEED
muslinforpattern
decoratorfabric
contrastingfabricforwelting,optional
cordingforwelting,optional
Pin-fittingthePattern
Measurethelengthandwidthofthefrontofthechairback.Add4"(10cm)tothelengthandthewidth.Cutmuslintosize.Markacenterlineonthelengthwisegrain.Markaline1"(2.5cm)fromtherawedgeattheupperedgeonthemuslin.
Repeatstep1forthebackofthechairback.Labelthepatternpieces.
Pinthefrontandbackpatternpiecesofthechairback,wrongsidestogether,attheuppermarkedlinematchingthecenterlines.Centerthepatternsonthechairbackandpinthepatternsatthesidesofthechair,allowingampleease.Markthesideseamsonboththefrontandbackpieces.
Measurethelengthofthechairseatfromthebacktowherethecushionmeetstheframeatthefront.Measurethewidthfromwherethecushionmeetstheframeatthesides.Cutmuslin6"(15cm)largerthanmeasurement.Markacenterlineonthelengthwisegrain.Labelthepatternpiece.
Pressunder1"(2.5cm)alongthebackofthechairseatpatternperpendiculartothecenterline.Thiswillbecomethestitchingline.Centerthepatternonthechairseatwiththepressedfoldevenwiththechairbackandsmooththefabricinplace.Pinoutexcessfabricatthefrontcorners,formingdarts.Markthedartseamlineswithapencil.
Markdotsonthefrontofthechairbackpatternandonthefoldofthechairseatpatternwherethepatternsmeetattheouteredgesofthe
seatback.Cutstraightupfromthebottomtothedotsonthefrontchairbackpiece,allowingthefabrictospreadsothesidecanbesmootheddownwardandthecenterbottombetweendotscanbesmoothedforwardundertheseatpattern.
Pintheseatpatterntothefrontchairbackpatternatthesides.Marktheseamonthefrontchairbackpiecebetweendots,evenwiththefoldoftheseatpattern.Continuemarkingtheseamlinedownthesidesofthefrontchairbackevenwiththefoldoftheseatpattern.
Measurethedistancefromthefloortowheretheseatcushionmeetstheframeatthechairfront.Recordthemeasurement.Markaseamlineonthepatternsallaroundthechairatthisheightfromthefloor.
Removethepatternsfromthechairandredrawseamlinesasnecessary.Repositionthepatternsonthechair;adjustasnecessary.Add½"(1.3cm)seamallowancestoallpatternpieces.Cutoutthepatterns.
SewingtheSlipcover
Usingthemuslinpatterns,cutoneofeachpiecefromthedecoratorfabric,matchingthefabricdesignacrossseams,ifnecessary.Transferallmarkings.
Staystitchthelowercornersofthefrontpiece,pivotingatthedots.Clipupto,butnotthrough,thestitchedcorner.
Stitchdartsonthefrontcornersofthechairseat.Trimtheexcessfabric¼"(6mm)fromthestitching,andpresstheseamallowancesopen.
Pinthechairseattothefront,matchingthedotsandloweredges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.
Pinthefront/seattothebackatthesidesandtop.Stitch.Usinga½"(1.3cm)seam,stitchthechairfrontandbacktogetheracrossthetopanddownthesides.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.
Ifweltingisdesired,cutbiasstrips15/8"(4cm)wide.Thelengthoftheweltingisequaltothecircumferenceoftheloweredgeoftheslipcover.Makeandapplyweltingasonpage248.
Measuretheloweredgeoftheslipcoverbetweenthefrontdarts.Add14"(35.5cm)forseamandpleatallowancestodeterminethewidthofthefrontskirtpiece.Repeatforthesides,measuringfromthedarttothesideseam.Repeatfortheback,measuringbetweensideseams.Todeterminethelengthoftheskirtpieces,doublethemeasurementyou
recordedinstep8ofmakingthepattern,andadd1"(2.5cm).Atthislength,theskirtwillbrushthefloor.Adjustthemeasurementifyouwantitshorter.Cutthefourskirtpieces.
Stitchtheskirtpiecestogetherintoacircle,using½"(1.3cm)seams.Presstheseamallowancesopen.Foldtheskirtinhalfcrosswise,wrongsidestogether.Bastetheupperedgestogetherwithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.
Markwithpins6½"(16.3cm)oneachsideofoneoftheskirtseams.Foldtheskirtatthepinmarksandbringthefoldstotheseamtoformaninvertedboxpleat.Pinthepleatinplace.Repeatatthethreeremainingseams.
Checkthefitoftheskirt;adjustthesizesofthepleatsifnecessary.Basteacrossthetopsofthepleatswithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowance.Bastetheskirttothechairseatandback,rightsidestogether.Placetheslipcoveronthechairandcheckthelengthoftheskirt.Adjustifnecessary.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemawayfromtheskirt.
WindowTreatments
TERMSTOKNOW
Thesewordsandphrasesareoftenusedtodescribewindowtreatmentsandconstructiontechniques.
Bias.Anydiagonallineintersectingthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsoffabric.Whilewovenfabricisverystableonthelengthwiseandcrosswisegrains,ithasconsiderablestretchonthebias.
Buckram.Stiffenedfabricthatgivessupporttotheheadingsofpleateddraperies.Buckram,availableinthedecoratingdepartmentoffabricstores,comesonarollinastandardwidthof4"(10cm).Itisalsoavailable,thoughsometimeshardertofind,in5"and6"(13and15cm)widthsformakingdraperieswithdeeperheadings.Youcanpurchasethelengthyouneed.Becausecutedgesofbuckramwillnotfray,itisalsousefulformakingtemplatesformarkingthepleatsandspaces.
Clearance.Thedistancebetweenthebackoftherodortreatmentandthewallorundertreatment,measuredatthefrontandsides.Theremustbeenoughclearancesothelayersofthewindowtreatmentdonotinterferewitheachother.
Crosswisegrain.Onwovenfabrics,thecrosswisegrainisperpendiculartotheselvages.Fabrichasslight“give”inthecrosswisegrain.
Cutlength.Thetotallengthatwhichfabricpiecesshouldbecutforthetreatment.Itincludesallowancesforanyhems,headings,rodpockets,andease.
Cutwidth.Thetotalwidththefabricshouldbecut.Ifmorethanonewidthoffabricisneeded,thecutwidthreferstotheentirepanelafterseamsaresewn,includingallowancesforanysidehems.
Finish.Toimprovethedurabilityofaseam,therawedgesaresecuredwithstitchesthatpreventthemfromfraying.Thiscanbedonewithzigzagstitchesthatwrapovertheedgeorwithserging.
Finishedlength.Thetotallengthofatreatmentafteritissewn.
Finishedwidth.Thetotalwidthofthetreatmentafteritissewn,includingthedepthofthereturns.
Flounce.Anextra-longheadingsewnatthetopofarod-pocketcurtainthatfallsforwardovertherodpocket.
Fullness.Thefinishedwidthofatreatmentcomparedtothelengthoftherodormountingboard.Forexample,twotimesfullnessmeansthatthewidthofthefabricistwotimesthelengthoftherod.
Heading.Theportionatthetopofarod-pockettreatmentthatformsarufflewhenthetreatmentisontherod.Thedepthoftheheadingisthedistancefromthefinishedupperedgetothetopstitchinglinefortherodpocket.
Interlining.Alayeroffabricencasedbetweenthetopfabricandtheliningtopreventlightfromshiningthroughortoaddbodytothetreatment.
Lengthwisegrain.Onwovenfabrics,thelengthwisegrainrunsparalleltotheselvages.Fabricsaregenerallystrongeralongthelengthwise
grain.
Lining.Afabricbackingsewntothefacefabrictoprovideextrabody,protectionfromsunlight,andsupportforsidehems.
Miter.Asquarecornerismadebyjoiningtwopieceswithaseamata45-degreeangle.
Mockup.Sometimesitisnecessarytomakeatestcurtaintofindaccuratemeasurements.Dothisbycuttingupinexpensivemuslinoranoldsheetandhangingitfromtherodinthesamemanneryouintendtohangthefinishedtreatment.
On-grain.Whenthelengthwiseandcrosswiseyarnsinwovenfabricareperfectlyperpendiculartoeachother.Ifthefabricisnoton-grainasitisprinted,itwillbeimpossibletomatchupthepatternortohaveatreatmentthathangsevenlywithstraight-cutloweredges.
Overlap.Ontraversingdraperies,thepanelslapovereachotheratthecenter.Thestandardoverlapdistanceis3½"(9cm).
Patternrepeat.Thelengthwisedistancefromonedistinctivepointinthefabricpattern,suchasthetipofaparticularpetalinafloralpattern,tothesamepointinthenextpatterndesign.
Projection.Thedistancearodormountingboardstandsoutfromthewall.
Railroading.Normallythelengthwisegrainofthefabricrunsverticallyinawindowtreatment.Sincedecoratorfabricisusually54"(137cm)wide,treatmentsthatarewiderthanthismusthaveverticalseams
joiningadditionalwidthsoffabric.Railroadingmeansthefabricisturnedsideways,sothelengthwisegrainrunshorizontally.Thefullwidthcanthenbecutinonepiece,eliminatingtheneedforanyseams.
Return.Theportionofthetreatmentthatextendsfromtheendoftherodormountingboardtothewall,blockingthesidelightandview.
Rodpocket.Thefabrictunnelwherethecurtainrodorpoleisinserted.Stitchinglinesatthetopandbottomofthepocketkeeptherodinplace.
Self-lined.Afabricpanellinedtotheedgewiththesamefabric.Ratherthancuttingtwopiecesandsewingthemtogether,onedouble-lengthpieceiscut,foldedrightsidestogether,andstitchedontheremainingthreesides,sooneedgewillhaveafoldinsteadofaseam.
Selvage.Thenarrow,tightlywovenedgesofthefabricthatdonotravelorfray.Theseshouldbecutawayonfirmlywovenfabricsbeforeseamingtopreventpuckeringoflongseams.Onlooselywovenfabrics,theselvagesshouldnotbetrimmedoffbecausetheyareneededforsupport.
Stackingspace.Thedistancefromthesidesofthewindowtotheendbracketsofthehardwarethatallowstraversingdraperiestoclearorpartiallyclearthewindowwhenthedraperiesareopen.Thisissometimesreferredtoasstackback.Roughlyestimatedatone-thirdofthetotaltreatmentwidth,thisdistancemustbefiguredintothefinishedwidthofthetreatmentsoyouknowwhatsizerodtobuy.
Undertreatment.Awindowtreatment—curtains,draperies,blinds,orashade—installedunderthetoptreatment,eitherinsideoroutsidethe
windowframe.Theundertreatmentismountedonitsownhardware,independentofthetoptreatment.
MEASURINGTHEWINDOW
Sketchthewindowtreatmenttoscaleongraphpaper,tohelpyoudeterminethemostpleasingproportionforthetreatmentaswellasthecorrectplacementofanyhardware.Afterinstallingthehardware,takeallnecessarymeasurements,usingasteeltapemeasureforaccuracy,andrecordthemeasurementsonthesketch.
Foreachproject,youwillneedtodeterminethefinishedlengthandwidthofthetreatment.Thefinishedlengthismeasuredfromthetopofthemountingboardorrod,orfromwhereyouwanttheupperedgeofacurtain,towhereyouwanttheloweredgeofthewindowtreatment.Thefinishedwidthisdeterminedbymeasuringthelengthoftherodormountingboard.Fortreatmentswithreturns,thefinishedwidthincludestwicetheprojectionoftherodormountingboard.
Specificinstructionsfordeterminingthecutlengthsandwidthsofthefabricaregivenforeachprojectinthisbook.Ingeneral,thecutwidthisdeterminedbymultiplyingthefinishedwidthbytheamountoffullnessdesired.Fullnessdescribesthefinishedwidthofthecurtainorvalanceinproportiontothelengthoftherodormountingboard.Forexample,twotimesfullnessmeansthatthewidthofthecurtainmeasurestwotimesthelengthoftherod.
Yardagerequirementscanbedeterminedbymultiplyingthecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsneededtoobtainthecutwidth.Specialconsiderationsfordeterminingyardagerequirementsforpatternedfabricsaregivenonpage222.
TipsforMeasuring
Plantheproportionofthelayersinawindowtreatmentsothelengthofthetoptreatmentisaboutone-fifththelengthoftheoveralltreatment.Thetoptreatmentmaybeinstalledhigherthanthewindow,toaddvisualheighttotheoveralltreatment.Insomecases,itmaybedesirabletostartthetoptreatmentattheceiling,providedthetopofthewindowframeisnotvisibleattheloweredgeofthetoptreatment.
Planfortheshortestpointofatoptreatmenttofallatleast4"to6"(10to15cm)belowthetopofthewindowglass.Thispreventsyoufromseeingthewindowframeasyoulookupwardatthetoptreatment.
Allow½"(1.3cm)clearancebetweentheloweredgeofthecurtainandthefloorwhenmeasuringforfloor-lengthcurtains.
Add2"(5cm)tothemeasurementforfloor-lengthcurtainsforawindowtreatmentthatbreaksonthefloor.
Add20"(51cm)tothemeasurementforfloor-lengthcurtainsforawindowtreatmentthatpuddlesonthefloor.
Measureforallcurtainsintheroomtothesameheightfromthefloor,forauniformlook.Usethehighestwindowintheroomasthestandardformeasuringtheotherwindows.
SELECTINGANDINSTALLINGHARDWARE
Conventionalanddecorativerodsareavailableinmanystyles.Windowtreatmentsthathavearodpocketmaybemountedonnarrowcurtain
rods orwidecurtainrods ,whichareavailableineither2½"(6.5cm)or4½"(11.5cm)widths.Decorativemetalrodsandwoodpoles
withornatefinials aresuitablefortreatmentstylesthatrevealallorpartoftherod,suchastabcurtains.Theymaybeusedwithdecorative
rings ,whicharesewnorclippedtothetopofacurtainpanel.
Hardwareaccessoriesarebothdecorativeandfunctional.Concealed
tiebackholders fitbehindthelastfoldofpleatedorrod-pocketdraperiestopreventthetiebackfromcrushingthedraperies.Cord-and-
tasseltiebacks areusedwithconcealedordecorativeholderstohold
draperiesinplace.Holdbacks ,asthenameimplies,holdbackastationarycurtainordraperywithouttheuseoftiebacks.Swagholders
,inawiderangeofstyles,supportthedrapedfabricinswagwindowtreatments.Somestylesaremeanttobeconcealed,whileothersareobviouslydecorative.
Conventionaltraverserods,designedforpleateddraperies,areavailableinwhite,ivory,andwoodtones.Draperyhooksareinsertedsothepleatsconcealtherodwhenthetreatmentisclosed.Valancesorcornicesareusedoverthetopofthedraperiestocompletelyconcealtherod.Flexibletraverserodsareusedforpleateddraperiesonbowwindows.
Windowtreatmenthardwareisavailableinawiderangeofstylestosuitanydecoratingplan.Considerbothdecorativeandfunctionalneedswhenselectinghardware.Somecurtainrodsaredesignedtobecoveredcompletelybythefabric,whileothersmayhavedecorativefinishesandornatefinialsthatenhancethetreatment.Selectandinstallthehardwarebeforemeasuringforthewindowtreatment,becausethecutlengthofthefabricwillvarydependingonthehardwareplacement.
Windowtreatmenthardwareispackagedcompletewithmountingbrackets,screwsornails,andinstallationinstructions.Usescrewsaloneifinstallingthroughdrywallorplasterdirectlyintowallstuds.Whenbracketsarepositionedbetweenwallstuds,supportthescrewsforlightweighttreatmentswithplasticanchorsinthecorrectsizeforthescrews.Ifthebracketsmustsupportaheavywindowtreatment,useplastictoggleanchorsinthecorrectsizeforthewallboarddepth,orusemollybolts.Ifnailsaresuppliedwiththehardware,usethemonlyforlightweighttreatmentsinstalleddirectlytothewindowframe.Otherwise,substitutescrewsormollyboltsthatfitthroughtheholesinthebrackets.
HowtoInstallBracketsUsingPlasticAnchors
Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesforplasticanchors,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthandiameterofplasticanchor.Tapanchorsintodrilledholes,usinghammer.
Insertscrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledplasticanchor.Tightenscrewsecurely;anchorexpandsindrywall,preventingitfrompullingoutofwall.
HowtoInstallBracketsUsingPlasticToggleAnchors
Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesforplastictoggleanchors,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthandiameteroftoggleanchorshank.
Squeezewingsoftoggleanchorflat,andpushtoggleanchorintohole;tapinwithhammeruntilitisflushwithwall.
Insertscrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledanchor;tightenscrew.Wingsspreadoutandflattenagainstthebacksideofdrywall.
HowtoInstallBracketsUsingMollyBolts
Markscrewlocationsonwall.Drillholesformollybolts,usingdrillbitslightlysmallerthanthediameterofmollybolt.
Tapmollyboltintodrilledhole,usinghammer;tightenscrew.Mollyboltexpandsandflattensagainstbackofdrywall.
Removescrewfrommollybolt;insertthescrewthroughholeinbracketandintoinstalledmollybolt.Screwthebracketsecurelyinplace.
HowtoInstallaTraverseRod
MounttheendrodbracketswiththeU-shapedsocketfacingupward.
Hookthelippedsupportclipofthecenterbracketoverthecenteroftherod;positiontherod,fittingtheendsoftherodintotheendbrackets.Markthescrewholesforthecenterbracket.
Taketheroddown,andmountthecenterbracket.Lifttherodintopositionagain;snapthecentersupportclipovertherod,hookingitintothegrooveatthefrontoftherod.Usingascrewdriver,turnthecamontheundersideofthebracket,lockingtheclipinplace.
Pushtheoverlapandunderlapmasterslidestotheoppositeendsoftherod.Attheleftside,reachbehindtheunderlapslideforthecord.Pullthecordslightlytoformasmallloop;hooktheloopsecurelyovertheplasticfingerthatprojectsfromthebackofthemasterslide.
Separatethestemfromthepulleybase;holdthebaseagainstthewallnearthefloor,directlybelowapoint2"(5cm)infromtherightendbracketoftherod.Markscrewlocations;mountthebracket.
Attachthestemtothepulleybase.Pulluponthecordhousing,exposingtheholeontheinnerstem.Insertasmallnailthroughtheholesothestemremainsextended.Attachthecordtothepulley,slippingtheloopendofthecordthroughtheslotinthecordhousing.
Reachbehindtheoverlapmasterslideattherightendoftherod;locatethetwoknotsatthebackoftheslide.
Pulltheknotnearesttheglidesuntilthecordhangingatthesideoftherodistautagainstthepulleywheel.Tieanewknotinthecordatthebackoftheslide,withexcesscordhangingdown.Removethenailfromtheinnerstemofthepulley.Cutofftheexcesscord;tightentheknotsecurely.
Suppliesincludemountingboard,angleirons,pan-headscrews,andmollybolts.
COVERINGANDINSTALLINGMOUNTINGBOARDS
Manywindowtreatments,includingRomanshadesandavarietyofvalancestyles,aremountedonboards,ratherthanondraperyhardware.
Themountingboardiscoveredwithfabrictomatchthewindowtreatmentorwithdraperylining,andthewindowtreatmentisthenstapledtotheboard.Thetreatmentmaybeinstalledasanoutsidemount,securingittothewindowframeortothewallabovethewindowframe.Foraninsidemount,thetreatmentisinstalledinsidetheupperwindowframe,flushwiththefrontoftheframe.
Thesizeofthemountingboardvaries,dependingonwhethertheboard-mountedwindowtreatmentisaninsideoroutsidemountandwhetheritisbeingusedaloneorwithanundertreatment.Whenusingstock,ornominal,lumber,keepinmindthattheactualmeasurementdiffersfromthenominalmeasurement.A1×2boardmeasures¾"×1½"(2×3.8cm),a1×4measures¾"×3½"(2×9cm),a1×6measures¾"×5½"(2×14cm),anda1×8measures¾"×7¼"(2×19cm).
Foraninside-mountedwindowtreatment,thedepthofthewindowframemustbeatleast1½"(3.8cm),toaccommodatea1×2mountingboard.Cutthemountingboard½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementacrossthewindowframe,toensurethattheboardwillfitinsidetheframeafteritiscoveredwithfabric.
Theprojection(page273)necessaryforanoutside-mountedtoptreatmentdependsontheprojectionofanyexistingundertreatment.Iftheundertreatmentisstationary,allowatleast2"(5cm)ofclearance
betweenitandthetoptreatment;iftheundertreatmenttraverses,allowatleast3"(7.5cm)ofclearance.Ifthereisnoundertreatmentoriftheundertreatmentismountedinsidethewindowframe,usea1×4boardforthetoptreatment.Cutthemountingboardatleast2"(5cm)widerthantheoutsidewidthofthewindowframe.Installtheboardusingangleironsthatmeasuremorethanone-halftheprojectionoftheboard.
Foranoutside-mountedRomanshade,use1×2board,cut2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidewidthofthewindowframe.Attachtheboardflattothewallfora¾"(2cm)projection.Thisallowstheshadetorestclosetothewindowframeforoptimumlightcontrolandprivacy.
CuttingDirections
Cutthefabrictocoverthemountingboard,withthewidthofthefabricequaltothedistancearoundtheboardplus1"(2.5cm)andthelengthofthefabricequaltothelengthoftheboardplus3"(7.5cm).
HowtoCovertheMountingBoardwithFabric
Centerboardonwrongsideoffabric.Stapleonelongedgeoffabrictoboard,placingstaplesabout8"(20.5cm)apart;donotstaplewithin6"(15cm)ofends.Wrapfabricaroundboard.Foldunder3/8"(1cm)onlongedge;stapletoboard,placingstaplesabout6"(15cm)apart.
Miterfabricatcornersonsideoftheboardwithunfoldedfabricedge;fingerpress.Staplemitersinplacenearrawedge.
Miterfabricatcornersonsideoftheboardwithfoldedfabricedge;fingerpress.Foldunderexcessfabricatends;staplenearfold.
HowtoInstallanInside-mountedBoard
Covermountingboard.Attachwindowtreatmenttomountingboard.Holdboardinplaceagainstupperwindowframe,withwidesideofboardup;alignfrontedgetoframe.
Predrillscrewholesthroughtheboardandupintowindowframe,using1/8"drillbit;drillholeswithin1"(2.5cm)ofeachendofboardandincenterforwidewindowtreatments.Adjusttheplacementofholestoavoidscreweyes,ifany.Secureboard,using8"×1½"(20×3.8cm)round-headscrews.
HowtoInstallanOutside-mountedBoard
Covermountingboard.Attachwindowtreatmenttoboard.Markscrewholesforangleironsonbottomofboard,positioningangleironswithin1"(2.5cm)ofeachendofboardandat45"(115cm)intervalsorless.
Predrillscrewholesintotheboard;sizeofdrillbitdependsonscrewsizerequiredforangleiron.Screwangleironstoboard.
Holdboardatdesiredplacement,makingsureitislevel;markscrewholesonwallorwindowframe.Removeangleironsfromboard.
Secureangleironstothewall,using1½"(3.8cm)flat-headscrews,intowallstuds;ifangleironsarenotpositionedatwallstuds,usemollyboltsortoggleanchorsinsteadofflat-headscrews.
Repositionwindowtreatmentonangleirons,aligningscrewholes;fastenscrews.
Romanshademountedwith¾"(2cm)projection.Installboardflattowallatdesiredlocationabovewindow,predrillingholesthroughboardintowall.Securewith8×2½"(6.5cm)flat-headscrewsintowallstuds;usemollyboltsortoggleanchorsifnotscrewingintowallstuds.
HEMS
Ifyouhavemeasured,figured,andcutaccurately,yourwindowtreatmentsshouldfitperfectlyoncetheyarehemmed.Forcurtainsanddraperies,followtheprocedureusedinprofessionalworkrooms:sewthelowerhemsfirst,thesidehemsnext,andtheheadinglast.
Sideandlowerhemsofcurtainsarealwaysdoubletoprovidestrength,weight,andstability.Themostaccuratewaytomakeadouble-foldhemistopressthefullhemdepthunderfirst,andthenopenandturnthecutedgeunderuptothefoldline.Cutofftheselvagesevenlybeforepressingthesidehems.
Curtainshangbetterwhenhemsareweightedoranchored.Sewsmallweightsintothehemsatthelowercornersandbottomsofseamstokeepthecurtainfrompullingorpuckering.
HowtoSewaDouble-foldHem
Lowerhem. Turnunderandpressthefullhemallowanceontheloweredge;8"(20.5cm)forfloor-lengthcurtainsor6"(15cm)forsilllengthcurtains.Unfoldandturnthecutedgeundertomeetthefoldline;pressouterfold.
Tackdraperyweighttohemallowanceateachseam.Refoldoninnerfoldline,encasingcutedge;pin.Stitchhem.
Sidehem.Turnunderandpress1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehemsasinstep1forlowerhem;pin.Tackdraperyweightsinsidehems,about3"(7.5cm)fromloweredge.Refoldandstitchhem.
ThreeWaystoFinishHems
Straight-stitchonfoldedhemedge,usingeighttotenstitchesperinch(2.5cm).Usethreadtomatchsolidcolorfabricorblendwithmulticolorfabric.Stitchslowlythroughmultiplelayers.
Machineblindstitch.Adjustmachinetoblindstitchsettingandattachblindstitchfoot.Foldhemunder,leavinginnerfoldextending1/8"(3mm).Alignguideinfoottosoftfold.Adjuststitchwidthtotaketinybiteintosoftfold.
Fusedhem.Fusepaper-backedadhesivestriptohem;removepaperbacking,andfuseheminplace.Followmanufacturer’sinstructionsforfusing.Pressfrombothsides.
TAPEREDSCARFSWAGS
Taperedscarfswagsdrapeintosmooth,evenfoldsandarelinedforextrabody.Usedalonetopunctuatethetopofawindoworasacomplementtodraperiesorblinds,theversatiletaperedscarfswagissuitedformanydécorstyles.Dependingonthefabricandhardwarechosen,aswellasthelengthofthetails,ataperedscarfcanworkinroomsasvariedasabreakfastnookandastatelylivingroom.
Designswagsthatdrapeintoasingleswooporintomultipleswoops.Thetailscanstopjustshortof,breakat,orpuddleonthefloor(thelastismostformal).Shortertailsthatcometothebottomofthewindowframeortopointstwo-thirdsorone-thirdthewindowlengthhaveendsthatangleupandintowardthewindow.Inthismethod,theshapingoftheswagisachievedbycuttingwedgesofexcessfullnessfromalengthoffabricateachpointwheretheswagcrossesaswagholderorpole.Theswagisthenconstructedbysewingtheangledpiecestogetherandaddingalining.
Thisscarfswagusesthefullwidthofthefabricandcanbeeitherself-linedorlinedinacontrastingfabric.Nearlyanydecoratorfabriccanbeused,fromsemi-sheertobrocade.Evenone-wayprintsaresuitable,becausethedirectionofthefabriccanbeswitchedatatailseam.
Holdersformountingtheswagsareavailableinseveralstyles,includingmedallionsandscarfrings;decorativetiebackholdersandholdbackscanalsobeused.Ataperedswagwithasingleswoopcanalsobedrapedoveradecorativepole.Mounttheholdersattheuppercornersofthe
windowframeandinanyotherdesiredlocationsbeforebeginningtheproject,andmeasureforthetreatmentusingtwilltape.
HowtoMeasureforaSingleSwoop
Mounttheswagholdersordecorativepoleinthedesiredlocations.Drapealengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothedesiredlengthofthesidesandstretchingstraightacrossthetopofthewindow.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthetopandoutersidesoftheswag.
Drapeasecondlengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothedesiredshortestpointsofthetaperedsidesanddippingtothelowestpointdesiredatthecenteroftheswoop.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthebottomandinnersidesoftheswag.Markbothtapesattheholdersoroutermostpointsonthepole.
Measureandrecordthelengthsofthetapeforeachsection.
Measurement isfromthelongpointtotheholderorpole, isfrom
theshortpointtotheholderorpole, isthedistancestraightacross
betweentheholdersoralongthepole,and isthelengthoftheloweredgeoftheswoop.
YOUWILLNEED
decorativeswagholders(oneholderateachuppercornerofthewindowforaswagwithasingleswoop,andoneholderforeachadditionalswoop)ordecorativepole toolsandhardwareforinstallation twilltape
decoratorfabricforswag,lengthdeterminedinstep1,page290forswagwithsingleswooporstep1,page291forswagwithmultipleswoops matchingorcontrastingfabricforlining,lengthequaltodecoratorfabric double-sidedcarpettape,optional
HowtoSewaSingleSwoop
Cutthefullwidthofthefabric,withthelengthequalto
measurement plustwotimesmeasurement plus3"(7.5cm)forseamallowances.Measurefromeachendofthefabricadistanceequal
to plus1"(2.5cm).Cutacrossthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints,toseparatetheendpiecesfromthecenter.
Turnoneendpiececompletelyaround,ifyouareusingfabricwithanobviousone-waydesign,sotheupwarddirectiononbothendspointstowardthemiddle;whenhungthedesignwillfaceinthecorrectdirectiononbothendpieces.Labelthetopofeachendpiece.
Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement .Markapointontheinneredgeofoneendpiecethisdistancefromthelowercutedge.Drawalinefromthispointtotheloweroutsidecorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheotherendpiece,cuttingtheangleintheoppositedirection.
Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement ;dividethismeasurementinhalf.Markapointonthetopedgeofthecenterpiecethisdistancefromonecutend.Drawalinefromthispointtothelowercorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheoppositecutendofthecenterpiece.
Trimofftheselvages.Cutthelining,usingtheswagpiecesaspatterns;labelthetopsoftheliningpieces.Stitchtheswagpiecestogetherusing½"(1.3cm)seams,easingtheedgestofit;repeatfortheliningpieces.Presstheseamallowancesopen.
Pintheliningtotheswag,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamallaround,leavinganopeningalongthecentertopforturning.Trimthecornersdiagonally.Presstheliningseamallowancetowardthelining.
Turntheswagrightsideout;presstheseamededges.Slipstitchtheopeningclosed.Fanfoldtheswagalongtheseamlines,keepingthenumberanddepthoffoldsconsistent.Tiethefoldswithtwilltape.Hangtheswagthroughscarfringsorovermedallion-stylescarfholdersortiebackholders.Orhangtheswagoverapole,withthecenterswoopinfront.Arrangethefoldsintheswagandsides.Removethetwilltape.Ifnecessary,securethefabrictotheholderorpoleinconspicuously,usingdouble-sidedcarpettape.
HowtoMeasureforMultipleSwoops
Mounttheswagholdersorpoleinthedesiredlocations.Drapealengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtothelongestpointsofthetaperedsidesandstretchingstraightacrossthetopofthewindoworpole.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthofthetopoftheswag.
Drapeasecondlengthoftwilltapeovertheholdersorpole,extendingtotheshortestpointsofthetaperedsidesanddippingtothelowestpointdesiredatthecenterofeachswoop.Thiswillbethefinishedlengthonthebottomoftheswag.Markbothtapesattheholdersorattheattachmentpointsonthepole.
Measureandrecordthelengthsofthetapeforeachsection.
Measurement isfromthelongpointtotheholderorpole.
Measurement isfromtheshortpointtotheholderorpole.
Measurement isthedistancestraightacrossbetweentheholdersor
alongthepole.Measurement isthetotallengthofalltheswoopsbetweentheendholdersorendattachmentpointstothepole.
HowtoSewMultipleSwoops
Cutthefullwidthofthefabric,withthelengthequalto
measurement plustwotimesmeasurement plus1"(2.5cm)foreachswoopplusanadditional2"(5cm).Measurefromeachendofthe
fabricadistanceequaltomeasurement plus1"(2.5cm).Cutacrossthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints.Followsteps2and3onpage290.
Measurethelengthofthecenterpiece;dividethismeasurementbythenumberofswoopsintheswag.Markthecenterpieceintolengthsofthissize;cutthefabricperpendiculartotheselvagesatthesepoints.
Subtractmeasurement frommeasurement .Dividethismeasurementbythenumberofswoopsintheswag;thendividethisnumberinhalf.Markapointonthetopedgeofoneswooppiecethisdistancefromonecutend.Drawalinefromthispointtothelowercorner;cutawaythetriangularwedge.Repeatfortheoppositecutendofthesamepiece.Cutidenticalwedgesfromeachremainingswooppiece.Completetheswagasonpage290,steps5to7.
GATHEREDPICKUPVALANCE
Agatheredpickupvalancebeginsasaflat,linedrectanglewitharodpocketandheading.Atevenlyspacedintervals,verticalrowsoftucksaresewnintothevalance,drawingthelowersectionofthevalanceupintogracefulbells.Thefabricbetweenthebellsfallsintogentleswags.Weltingattheloweredgeaccentsandsupportsthecurvesofthebellsandswags.Acontrastingfabric,usedtolinethevalance,peeksfromtheinsideofeachbell.
Whenplanningthedesignofthevalance,workwithenoughfullandhalfwidthsoffabrictoequalabouttwo-and-one-halftimesfullness.Bellsarepositionedateachseamandateachmidpointbetweenseams.Thoughyouusuallyshouldn’tpositionprominentdetailsofawindowtreatmentatseams,thispatternofplacementcoincideswiththeplacementoflargemotifsinmostdecoratorfabrics,allowingthemainmotifstofallinthecenterofeachswag.
Thevalancehangsstraightdownatthereturnstoalengththatisabout6"(15cm)longerthanthecenterofeachswag.Theshortestpointatthebackofeachbellisabout2"(5cm)shorterthantheswags.
Medium-weightdecoratorfabricsworkwellforthisvalance.Toaddbodyandaslightlypaddedappearance,interlinethevalancewithflannel.Selectcontrastingfabricfortheliningandforthefabric-coveredwelting.
Mountthevalanceonaplainnarrowpolewithelbowsorautilityrodjustaboveandtotheoutsideofthewindowframe.
CuttingDirections
Thecutlengthofthevalancefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthattheside(fromtheundersideoftherodtothehem)plustwicetherod-pocketdepthplustwicetheheadingheightplus1"(2.5cm).
Thecutwidthofthevalanceisequaltotherodlengthplustwicetheprojectionoftherod,multipliedbytwo-and-one-halftimesfullness.Aftercalculatingthefullcutwidth,dividethisnumberbythefabricwidthandroundtothenearestnumberoffullandhalfwidthstopiecetogether.
Cutthefabricforthecontrastliningtothesamelengthandwidthasthevalancefabric.
Ifinterliningisdesired,thecutwidthoftheinterliningfabricisequaltothetotalwidthofthevalancefabricafterseaming.Thecutlengthoftheinterliningfabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthevalance.Ifpossible,railroad(page273)theinterliningtoavoidseams.
Cutbiasfabricstripsifmakingfabric-coveredwelting,followingstep1onpage248.
Infabricswithlargemotifs,onecompleteverticalrepeatwillhavetworowsofmotifswithstaggeredplacement.Onerowwillhavetwofullmotifs,whilethesecondrowwillhaveonefullmotifinthecenterandtwohalvesofanothermotifmatchingattheselvages.Cutthevalancepieceswiththeprimarymotifsinthelower12"to15"(30.5to38cm),sotheywillbemorevisibleinthefinishedvalance.
YOUWILLNEED
decoratorfabricforvalancedecoratorfabricforcontrastinglining
fabric-coveredwelting,twistedwelting,or½"(1.3cm)fillercordandfabricformakingfabric-coveredwelting
flannelinterlining,optional
curtainrod
toolsandhardwareforinstallation
HowtoMakeaGatheredPickupValance
Seamthevalancefabricwidthstogether.Repeatforthelining.Checktoseethatthevalanceandliningareexactlythesamesize.
Makefabric-coveredwelting(page248),ifdesired,andstitchittotheloweredgeofthevalance;beginandendthewelting½"(1.3cm)fromthesideedges.Alternatively,attachpurchasedwelting.Foravalancewithoutinterlining,omitstep3.
Seamtheinterlining,ifnecessary.Pintheinterliningtothewrongsideoftheliningalongthesides,withtheloweredgeoftheinterlining½"(1.3cm)abovetheloweredgeofthelining.Bastewithinthe½"(1.3cm)seamallowancesonthesides.
Placethevalanceandliningrightsidestogether,matchingtherawedges;pinalongthesidesandloweredge.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seamsonthesidesandloweredge,usingazipperfootandstitchingwiththevalancefabricontop.Alongtheloweredge,stitchinsidethepreviousstitchingline,crowdingthestitchesagainstthewelting.
Trimthelowercornersdiagonally.Turnthevalancerightsideout.Pressthesidesandtheloweredges.Ifthevalanceisinterlined,smooththeinterlininginplace,checkingtoseethattheupperedgeoftheinterliningstopsadistancefromtheupperedgeofthevalanceequaltotheheadingdepthplustherod-pocketdepthplus½"(1.3cm).
Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge,turningunderthevalanceandliningtogether.Thenpressunderanamountequaltothe
headingdepthplustherod-pocketdepth;pin.
Stitchclosetothefirstfold;stitchagainatthedepthoftheheading,usingtapeonthebedofthesewingmachineasastitchingguide.
Laythevalancefacedownonaflatsurface.Markforverticalrowsoftucksateachseamandateachmidpointbetweentheseams.Thedistancefromtheouterrowofmarkstothesideedgeequalsthedistancebetweenrows.Measureup10"(25.5cm)fromtheloweredgefortheplacementofthefirstmarkineachrow.Placetheremainingmarksevenlyspacedbetweenthelowermarkandthelowerstitchinglineoftherodpocket,dividingthedistanceintothreeequalparts.
Threadalarge-eyedneedlewithheavythread.Inserttheneedleintothevalanceatthelowestmarkinarow.Bringtheneedlebackthroughtotheliningsideofthevalanceatthenextmarkandinsertitbackthrough¼"(6mm)aboveit.Repeat,takingasmallstitchateachmarkandrunningthethreadontherightsideofthevalance.Bringtheneedlethroughatthelowerstitchinglineoftherodpocket.Inserttheneedlebackthrough¼"(6mm)tothesideofthetopstitch.
Makeasecondrowofstitchesalongsidethefirstrowbacktothelowestmark.Cutthethread,leavingtails.
Repeatsteps9and10foreachmarkedrow.Pullupthestitchestomakethreetucksineachrow.Knotthethreadsecurely.
Inserttherodintotherodpocket.Mounttherod;distributethegathersevenly.Shapethebellsandswags.
FLATROMANSHADES
AflatRomanshadeisatailored,economicalwindowtreatmentthatcontrolslightandprovidesprivacy.Completelyflatwhenlowered,thisstyleisagoodchoicelayeredundertied-backcurtains,draperysidepanels,orswags.
Thisshadedesignisminimalanduncomplicated,butitdoesn’thavetobeboring.Liningprovidesaddedbody,preventsfabricfading,andcreatesauniformappearancefromtheoutside.Asystemofevenlyspacedringsthroughwhichcordsarerunonthebackoftheshademakesitpossibletoraiseandlowertheshade.Theringsarespacedinevencolumnsandrowssotheshadewillfoldneatlyatregularintervalswhenraised.
Chooseasturdy,firmdecoratorfabrictogivetheshadeacrisplook.Becausetheshadeisabsolutelyflatwhenlowered,itisagreatwaytoshowoffalargeall-overprint.Thesedirectionsaresuitableforashadethatisatleast2"(5cm)narrowerthanthefabricwidth.Ifthewindowiswider,useonefullwidthoffabricforacenterpanelandaddequal,narrowpiecestothesides.
Mountedonaboard,theshadecanbeinstalledasaninsidemount,securedinsidetheupperwindowframe,flushwiththefrontoftheframe.Foranoutsidemount,theshadeisinstalledonthewallatleast1"(2.5cm)abovetheframe.Useaverynarrowprojectionbecausetheshadedoesnotwrapovertheendsoftheboard.Tofindthefinishedlengthoftheshadeforanoutsidemount,measurefromthetopofthe
mountingboardtothesillor½"(1.3cm)belowtheapron;foraninsidemount,measuretheinsideframetothesill.Thefinishedwidthoftheshadeisequaltothelengthofthemountingboardplus¼"(6mm).
CuttingDirections
Cutamountingboard2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidemeasurementofthewindowframeforanoutsidemountor½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementforaninsidemount.Cutastripoffabricforcoveringtheboard½"(1.3cm)widerthantheboardcircumferenceand2"(5cm)longerthantheboardlength.
Thecutwidthofthedecoratorfabricisequaltothefinishedwidthplus2"(5cm).Thecutlengthisequaltothefinishedlengthplus7"(18cm).Thisincludesallowanceforlengththatmaybelostinstitching;theexactlengthiscutafterthepanelhasbeensewn.Donotuseaselvageasanedge.Cuttheliningfabricwiththewidthequaltothefinishedwidthandthelengthequaltothefinishedlengthplus3½"(9cm).
YOUWILLNEED
mountingboard
decoratorfabric
1"(2.5cm)angleironswithscrewsforoutsidemount toolsforinstallation paper-backedfusibleadhesivestrip,¾"(1.9cm)wide draperylining
graphpaper
plasticrings,3/8"or½"(1or1.3cm) flatmetalweightbar,½"(1.3cm)wide,cut½"(1.3cm)shorterthanfinishedwidthofshade staplegunandstaples screweyes
shadecord
whiteglue
draperypull,optional awningcleat
HowtoMakeaFlatRomanShade
Cutthemountingboardandcoveritwithfabric(page284).Iftheshadewillbemountedoutsidethewindowframe,secureangleironstothebottomoftheboard,neartheendsandat45"(114cm)intervals,usingpan-headscrews.Mounttheboard(page285),centeredabovethewindowframe.Measureforthefinishedsizeoftheshade.Removethescrewsthatholdthemountingboardtotheangleirons,leavingtheangleironsonthewall.
Pressunder1"(2.5cm)onthesidesoftheshade.Cutstripsof¾"(1.9cm)paper-backedfusiblewebthelengthofeachside.Turnbackthehemandplacethestripsnearthecutedge.Pressoverthestripstofusethemtothehemallowance,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.
Placetheliningovertheshadefabric,wrongsidestogether,withtheloweredgeofthelining3½"(8.9cm)abovetheloweredgeoftheshadefabric;tucktheliningunderthesidehems.Removetheprotectivepaperbackingfromthefusibleweb,andpresstofusethehemsinplace.
Pressunder½"(1.3cm)attheloweredge;thenpressunder3"(7.6cm)toformthehempocket.Theloweredgeoftheliningshouldnowbeevenwiththebottomfoldoftheshade.Pintheheminplace.Edgestitchalongthetopfoldofthehemthroughalllayers.
Ontheliningside,drawalineacrossthetopoftheshadeatthe
finishedlength.Drawasecondline1½"(3.8cm)aboveit(equaltotheboardprojection).Cutoffexcessfabricalongthetopline.Pinthelayerstogether,andfinishtheupperedgestogether.
Diagramthebackoftheshadeonpaper,indicatingthefinishedlengthandwidth.Markthehem3"(7.6cm)fromtheloweredge.Planthelocationsofringsincolumnsspaced8"to12"(20to30.5cm)apart,withtheoutercolumns¾"(1.9cm)fromtheedgesoftheshade.Spacetheminevenhorizontalrows5"to8"(13to20cm)apartwiththebottomrowatthetopofthehemandthetoprowonthemarkedline.Here’showtodothemath:Subtract1½"(3.8cm)fromthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Dividethisadjustedwidthby12"(30.5cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweencolumns—therewillbeonemorecolumnthanspaces.Dividetheadjustedwidthbythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweencolumns.
Measurethelengthoftheshadefromthetopofthehemtotheuppermarkedline.Dividethisdistanceby8"(20cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweenrows.Dividethedistancebythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweenrows.
Marktheplacementfortheringsontheliningsideoftheshade,followingyourdiagram.Thebottomrowofringsisattheupperedgeofthehem;thetoprowisthedetermineddistancebelowthetopmarkedline.(Therearenoringsonthetopline.)Pinhorizontallythroughbothlayersoffabricateachmark.
Stitcharingateachmarkthroughbothlayersoffabric,stitchingeitherbymachineorbyhand.Reinforcetheringsinthebottomrowwithextrastitchesbecausetheycarrytheweightoftheshade.
Inserttheflatweightbarintothehempocket.Slipstitchthesideopeningsclosed.
Stapletheshadetothetopofthemountingboard,aligningthemarkedlinetothetopfrontedgeoftheboard.
Drillpilotholesandinsertscreweyes,centeredontheundersideofthemountingboard,aligningthemtothecolumnsofrings.
Onthesidewhereyouwantthecordstohang,runcordthroughthefirstcolumnofrings,throughthetopscreweye,andatleasthalfwaydowntheside.Theextralengthneededdependsonthelocationofthewindowandwhetherornotyouwantittobeaccessibletochildren.Cutthecordandtieanonslipknotatthebottomring.Repeatforeachcolumninorder,runningthecordsalsothroughthepreviousscreweyes.Applygluetotheknotsforsecurity.
Reattachthemountingboardtotheangleironsforanoutsidemountorinstallthemountingboarddirectlytotheundersideofthewindowframe,insertingscrewsthroughpilotholes,foraninsidemount.
Adjustthecordswiththeshadedownsothetensiononallcordsisequal.Tiethecordsinaknotjustbelowthefirstscreweye.Braidthecords,insertthemthroughadraperypull,ifdesired,andknot
andtrimtheends.
Secureanawningcleattotheedgeofthewindowframeoronthewall.Pullgentlyonthecordstoraisetheshade,formingsoftfolds.Windthecordaroundthecleattoholdtheshadeinitsraisedposition.Thefirsttimeyouraisetheshade,youmayhaveto“train”itwheretofold.Asyouraisetheshade,pulltheexcessfabricbetweenhorizontalrowsforward,forminggentlerolls.Tohelpit“remember,”leavetheshadeintheraisedpositionforadayortwo.
TUCKEDROMANSHADES
Narrow,horizontalstitchedtucks“remind”thisshadewheretofoldwhenitisraised.Withitsclean-linedappearance,atuckedshadeallowsasmuchofthewindowtobeexposedasdesiredandprovidescompletecoveragewhenneeded.
Designthisshadewithnarrowtucksthatalternatefromfronttobackorwithtucksinthebackonly.Theringsareattachedtothebacktucks.Whentheshadeisraised,thefabricfoldsalongthetucksaccordion-style,fromthebottom.Thefoldstakeupminimalspacewhencompletelyraised.Tohelptheshadehangsmoothly,aweightbarisinsertedintothehemattheloweredge.
Usefirmlywovendecoratorfabricforcrisp,straighttucks.Becausethetuckswillbreakupthesurface,thisstyleisbestforsmallall-overprints,solids,andstripes.Ifyouwanttousealargeprint,stitchonlybacktuckstoavoidinteruptingthedesign.Liningprovidesaddedbodyandlightcontrolwhilehelpingsupporttucks.Thisshadeisattachedtoamountingboardandmaybeinstalledaseitheranoutsideorinsidemount.Foranoutsidemount,themountingboardisinstalledabovethewindowandextendstoeitherthesillor½"(1.3cm)belowtheapron.Theshadeshouldextendatleast1"(2.5cm)beyondthewindowframeoneachside.Useaverynarrowprojectionbecausetheshadedoesnotwrapovertheendsoftheboard.Foraninsidemount,measureacrossthewindowinsidetheframe.Toallowforvarianceinthewidthoftheframe,measureitacrossthetop,middle,andbottom.Thefinishedwidthshouldbe1/8"(3mm)lessthantheshortestofthesethree
measurements.
Foranoutside-mountedshade,iftheestimatedfinishedlengthoftheshadeisnotevenlydivisiblebythedesiredspacebetweenthetucks,thelengthcanbeincreaseduntilitis,ifthereisthenecessarywallspaceabovethewindow.Forexample,ifyouwouldlike4"(10cm)spacesbetweenthetucksandtheestimatedfinishedlengthis45"(114cm),youcanmaketheshade48"(122cm)long,whichisdivisiblebyfour.Thisallowsfora4"(10cm)spacebetweeneachofthetucks,a4"(10cm)spaceatthetop,anda4"(10cm)hemdepthatthebottomoftheshade,foratotaloftwelvespaces.
Sometimesthelengthoftheshadecannotbeadjusted,asforaninside-mountedshadethatmustfitwithinthewindowframe.Inthiscase,thespacingbetweenthetuckscanbeadjusted.Forexample,iftheestimatedspacebetweenthetucksis4"(10cm)andthefinishedlengthoftheshadeis45"(114cm),youcanhaveten4½"(11.4cm)spaces;thisincludesthespacesbetweenthetucks,thespaceatthetopoftheshade,andthespaceforthehemdepthatthebottom.Oryoucanhavenine5"(12.7cm)spaces,includingthetopspaceandthehemdepth.
CuttingDirections
Cutamountingboard2"(5cm)longerthantheoutsidemeasurementofthewindowframeforanoutsidemountor½"(1.3cm)shorterthantheinsidemeasurementforaninsidemount.Cutastripoffabricforcoveringtheboard½"(1.3cm)widerthantheboardcircumferenceand2"(5cm)longerthantheboardlength.
Cutthedecoratorfabrictothedesiredfinishedlengthoftheshadeplustwicethehemdepthplustheprojectionofthemountingboardplus¾"(1.9cm)foreachtuck.Alsoadd2"(5cm)toallowforanyreductioninthelengththatresultsfrommultiplerowsofstitching.Aftertheshadeissewn,excesslengthistrimmedoffatthetop.
Thecutwidthoftheshadefabricis3"(7.6cm)widerthanthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Ifmorethanonefabricwidthisrequiredfortheshade,useonefullwidthforacenterpanelandseamequalpartialwidthsoneachside,matchingthepatterninthefabric.
Cuttheliningtothesamelengthasthedecoratorfabricminustwicethedepthofthehematthebottom.Thecutwidthoftheliningisequaltothefinishedwidthoftheshade;ifnecessary,seamequalpartialwidthsoneachsideofacenterpanel,asforthedecoratorfabric.
YOUWILLNEED
graphpaper
decoratorfabric
liquidfraypreventer,optional paper-backedfusibleadhesivestrip,¾"(1.9cm)wide draperylining
plasticrings,3/8"or½"(1or1.3cm) mountingboard
1"(2.5cm)angleironswithscrewsforoutsidemount toolsforinstallation flatmetalweightbar,½"(1.3cm)wide,cut½"(1.3cm)shorterthanfinishedwidthofshade staplegunandstaplesscreweyes
shadecord
whiteglue
draperypull,optional awningcleat
HowtomakeaTuckedRomanShade
Beforeyoucutthefabric,diagramtheshadeonpaper,indicatingthefinishedlengthandwidth,thenumberoftucksandspaces,andthecolumnsofrings.Choosethedistancebetweentucksaccordingtothelookyouwant;aspacingofabout4"(10cm)betweenthetucksisattractive.Thebottomtuckisabacktuckandislocatedjustabovethehem.Positiontheringsalongthebacktucks,starting1"(2.5cm)fromthesidesandspacingtheremainingcolumnsevenly8"to12"(20to30.5cm)apart.
Here’showtodothemath:Dividethedesiredspacebetweenthetucksintothefinishedlengthoftheshade;ifnecessary,roundthenumberupordowntothenearestwholenumber.Thisisthenumberofspaces,includingthespaceatthetopoftheshadeandthehemdepthatthebottom.Thendividethenumberofspacesintothefinishedlengthoftheshadetofindtheexactspacebetweenthetucksandthehemdepth.Thereisonelesstuckintheshadethantherearespaces.
Subtract2"(5cm)fromthefinishedwidthoftheshade.Dividethisadjustedwidthby12"(30.5cm)androunduptothenearestwholenumbertofindthenumberofspacesbetweencolumns—therewillbeonemorecolumnthanspaces.Dividetheadjustedwidthbythenumberofspacestofindthedistancebetweencolumns.
Cutthefabric.Seamfabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary.Stabilizethesideedgesbyapplyingliquidfraypreventer,orfinish
theedges,usingoverlockorzigzagstitches.
Pressunder1½"(3.8cm)oneachsideforthehems.Cutstripsofpaper-backedfusibleadhesivethelengthofeachside.Turnbackthehemandplacethestripsnearthecutedge.Pressoverthestripstofusethemtothehemallowance,followingthemanufacturer’sdirections.
Placetheliningovertheshadefabric,wrongsidestogether,withtheupperedgesmatching;tucktheliningunderthesidehems.Removetheprotectivepaperbackingfromthefusibleweb,andpresstofusethehemsinplace.
Pressunderanamountequaltothehemdepthattheloweredgeoftheshadefabric;thenpressunderagaintomakeadouble-foldhem.Pininplace.Stitchalongtheupperfold.
Placetheshadefacedownonaflatsurface.Onthelining,markalineforthefirstbacktuck3/8"(1cm)abovethestitchedupperfoldofthehem.
Marklinesontheliningfortheremainingbacktucks.Todeterminethedistancebetweenthemarkedlines,multiplythespacebetweentucksbytwo,andadd1½"(3.8cm)ifyouwillbemakingbothfrontandbacktucks;ifyouonlywantbacktucks,addonly¾"(1.9cm).Forexample,markthelines9½"(24cm)apartforashadewith4"(10cm)spacesbetweenthefrontandbacktucks.Markthelines8¾"(22cm)apartifyouonlywantbacktucks.Eachtucktakesup¾"(1.9cm).
Pintheliningtotheshadefabricalongthemarkedlines.Presstheshadealongthefirstmarkedline,rightsidestogether.Stitch3/8"(1cm)fromthefold.Repeatfortheremainingbacktucks.Forthefirsttuck,itmaybehelpfultouseazipperfoot,becausethestitchinglineisevenwiththetopfoldofthehem.
Foldtheshade,wrongsidestogether,aligningthefirsttwobacktucks.Fromtherightside,pressthefoldforthefirstfronttuck.Pinalongthefold.
Fold,press,andpintheremainingfronttucks.Stitchallthefronttucks3/8"(1cm)fromthefolds.
Foldtheshade,stackingthefronttucksandbacktucks.Marktheplacementfortheringsonthebacktucks,beginning1"(2.5cm)fromthesidesandspacingtheremainingcolumnsofrings,followingyourdiagram.
Attacharingateachmarkthroughbothlayersoffabric,stitchingeitherbymachineorbyhand.Bymachine,placethefoldunderthepresserfootwiththeringnexttothefold.Setthezigzagstitchatthewidestsetting;setthestitchlengthat0.Stitchoverthering,securingitwithabouteightstitches.Thenstitchinplacefortwoorthreestitches,withthestitchwidthandlengthsetat0tosecurethreads.Reinforcetheringsinthebottomrowwithextrastitchesbecausetheycarrytheweightoftheshade.
Cutthemountingboardandcoveritwithfabric(page284).Iftheshadewillbemountedoutsidethewindowframe,secureangle
ironstothebottomoftheboard,neartheendsandat45"(114cm)intervals,usingpan-headscrews.Mounttheboard(page285),centeredabovethewindowframe.Measureforthefinishedsizeoftheshade.Removethescrewsthatholdthemountingboardtotheangleirons,leavingtheangleironsonthewall.
Placetheshadefacedownonaflatsurface.Pullingthefabrictaut,measurefromtheloweredgeoftheshadetothedesiredfinishedlength;markalineontheliningfabric.Thismaychangetheupperspaceoftheshadesomewhatbutensuresthattheshadeisthecorrectlength.Markasecondlineadistanceawayequaltotheprojectionofthemountingboard.Cutoffexcessfabricalongthetopline.Pinthelayerstogether,andfinishtheupperedgestogetherbysergingorusingwidezigzagstitches.
Completetheshadeasinsteps9to15onpage299.
FLATPANELCURTAINS
Oneoftheeasiestcurtainstomakeisalsooneofthemostversatile.Flatpanelcurtainsarejustpiecesoffabricthatarehemmedonallfouredgesandhungfromdecorativerodswithclip-onorsew-onrings.That’sasbasicasyoucanget,yetthisstyleofcurtaincaneasilybeadaptedtocreateavarietyoflooks:unlinedsheersorsemi-sheersthatcoverthewindow,linedorunlinedsidepanelsthatrevealmostoralloftheglass,panelsformallystyledintouniformfolds,panelsallowedtocasuallydrapeandslouch.
Flatpanelcurtainscanbedesignedassimple,casual,sill-lengthpanels;semiformalfloor-lengthstyles,perfectforacontemporaryinterior;orspilling-onto-the-floorluxuriousdraperies.Thelookisstronglyinfluencedbythefullnessofthecurtains,whichcanbesleekandspartanatone-and-one-halftimefullness,fullandopulentatthreetimesfullness,oranywhereinbetween.Seetheexamplesforfullnessandringspacingonpage306.
Selectfirmlywovenmedium-weightfabrictocreateasimpletailoredlook,withanupperedgethatcanbestyledintogentlerollingfolds.Lightweight,slinkyfabricwillresultinarelaxed,softlook,withanupperedgethatdipsgracefullybetweenattachmentpoints.Dependingonthedesiredfullness,onefullwidthofdecoratorfabricwillcoveranarea18"to32"(46to81.5cm)wide.Ifmorewidthisdesired,seamtogetherfullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachpanel.Youmayprefertolinethecurtainpanels,toaddbodyandpreventthedecoratorfabricfromfading.
Thepanelscanbehungfromadecorativerodwithclip-onorsew-oncurtainrings,whichareavailableinmanystyles.Choosethehardwareandmounttherodbeforeyoubeginsoyoucanaccuratelymeasureforthefinishedlength.Therodisusuallymountedabovethewindowframefarenoughthatthetopofthecurtainwillcoverthewood.Beforeyoudrillanyholes,itisagoodideatomockupasmallsampletodeterminetheexactlocationofthecurtaintopinrelationtotherod;thetypeofringusedalsoaffectsthemeasurement.
CuttingDirections
Thecutlengthofthefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplusthelowerhemallowance(seechartonpage307)plus3"(7.5cm)fortheupperhem.
Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocovermultipliedbythedesiredfullness(seeexamplesonpage314).Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,tofindthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.
Multiplythecutlengthbythetotalnumberofwidthsneededtodeterminetheamountoffabrictobuy.Buyanextrapatternrepeatperfabricwidthformatchingpatterns(page222).
Forlinedcurtains,cuttheliningfabric5"(13cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabricforfloor-lengthcurtains;3"(7.5cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabricforsill-orapron-lengthcurtains;thesamelengthasthedecoratorfabricforcurtainsthatpuddleonthefloor.Thecutwidthoftheliningisthesameasthedecoratorfabric.
YOUWILLNEED
decorativecurtainrod
toolsandhardwareforinstallation
decoratorfabric
draperyliningforlinedcurtains
draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains
clip-onorsew-onrings
FullnessandSpacingAlternatives
Differentfabricfullnessesandsamespacingbetweenhooks.
Foraflatterpanel,one-and-one-halftimesfullnessisused(left);
thismeansthewidthofthecurtainmeasuresone-and-one-halftimesthelengthoftherod.Forafullerpanel,usetwotimesfullness(center);
ortwo-and-one-halftimesfullness(right).Inthesephotos,allringsarespaced15½"(39cm)apart.
Differentspacingbetweenringsandsamefabricfullness.
Foracontrolledlookalongthetopofthecurtain,usemoreringsandspacethemclosetogether(left).
Forasofterlook,usefewerringswithmorespacebetweenthem.
Fordramaticswoopsinthefabric,useaminimumofrings,spacedevenfartherapart.Allofthesecurtainpanelshavetwotimesfullness.
HowtoMakeUnlinedFlatPanelCurtains
Seamthefabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary,foreachcurtainpanel.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamstogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.
Pressundertheloweredgethefullamountofthehemallowance.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtainswithmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.
Refoldtheloweredge,formingadouble-foldhem.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.
Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtains,insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch,usingablindstitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachpanel.
Pressundera1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemintheupperedge.Stitchtheupperhem.
Marktheplacementforsew-onorclip-onringsalongthetophem,placingtheendmarks¾"(2cm)fromthesides.Spacetheremainingmarksevenly6"to10"(15to25.5cm)apart.Trydifferentspacing
patterns,usingsafetypins,tohelpyoudecide.Seetheexamplesopposite.Attacharingateachmark.
Slidetheringsontothedraperyrod,andmounttherodonthebrackets.
HemAllowances
Makinglinedflatpanelcurtains
Followsteps1to3forunlinedflatpanelcurtainsatleft.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldheminthelining.
Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesidesandupperedge;pin.Theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Completethecurtainasinsteps4to7(atleft),handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.
Makingpuddledcurtains
Followstep1atleftforbothdecoratorfabricandlining.Placethelininganddecoratorfabricwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedges.Completesteps2to7,treatingbothfabricsasone.
TABCURTAINS
Theeyeisdrawnupwardwhenawindowisdressedwithtabcurtains.Narrowstrapsthatlooportieoveradecorativerodgivethistreatmenttheno-frillappealofblendingformwithfunction.Thetabscanloop,tie,orbebuttoned.
Tabcurtainsarenotintendedtobeopenedandclosedrepeatedly,becausethefrictionwouldputtoomuchstrainonthetabs.Therefore,thiscurtainstyleisoftendesignedastwostationarypanelsatthesidesofawindow.Foranarrowwindow,onepanelcancovertheentirewidthatthetopandbedrawntoonesidetoletlightin.Thetabscanbeacontinuousloop,twostrapsthataretiedovertherod,orasinglestrapattachedatoneendandseeminglybuttonedtothecurtainatthefront(toavoidstrainonthebuttons,thetabsaresewninplaceandthebuttonsarejustdecorative).Eachfabricwidthhasfiveorsixevenlyspacedtabs.
Tabcurtainscanbelinedorunlined,dependingonthefabricselectionandthedegreeoflightcontrolandprivacyrequired.Medium-weightdecoratorfabricsoffertheneededstrengthforthetabsandwillkeeptheupperedgeofthecurtaininacontrolledline.Ifasoftdrapebetweentabsisdesired,choosealighterweight,drapablefabricforthecurtain.
Itiswisetomockupthetreatmentandhangtherodbeforecuttingforaccuratelengthmeasurements(seethestepsopposite).Mounttherodhighenoughsothetopofthewindowframewillnotbevisibleabovethecurtain.
Measuring
Determinethetablengthbywrappingaclothtapemeasureovertherodthedesireddistancetothetopofthecurtain.Add1"(2.5cm)forseamallowancesand2¾"(7cm)moreforbuttontabs.Fortietabs,mockupatabwithwideribbonorstripsoffabricinthestyleofknotyouwanttouse.Thenmeasurethelengthofeachpieceandadd1"(2.5cm)forendseams.
Measurethedistancefromtheundersideoftherodtothetopofthecurtain.Mounttherodadistanceabovethewindowequaltothisdistanceplus1"(2.5cm).Thisensuresthatthewindowframewillnotshowabovethecurtain.
CuttingDirections
Thecutlengthofeachcurtainpanelisequaltothefinishedlengthplusthebottomhemallowance(seechartonpage307)plus3"(7.5cm).
Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocovermultipliedbytwo.Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,todeterminethenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.
Forlinedtabcurtains,thecutlengthoftheliningisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplus3½"(9cm).Thecutwidthisthesameasforthedecoratorfabric.
Youwillneedfivetabsforthefirstfullwidthplusfourtabsforeachadditionalfullwidthandtwotabsforeachadditionalhalfwidthineachcurtainpanel.Forlooporbuttontabs1½"(3.8cm)wide,cuta4"(10cm)stripoffabricforeachtab,usingthelengthmeasurementfoundatleft.Fortietabs1"(2.5cm)wide,cuttwo2½"(6.5cm)stripsforeachtab,usingthelengthmeasurementfoundatleft.
Multiplythecutlengthbythenumberoffabricwidthsneededtodeterminethetotalamountrequiredforthecurtains.Forthetabs,add12"(30.5cm)foreverytwofabricwidthsneededtodeterminethetotallengthtobuy.
YOUWILLNEED
decorativecurtainrod
toolsandhardwareforinstallation
decoratorfabric
draperyliningforlinedcurtains
draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains
buttonsorcoveredbuttonkitsforbuttontabcurtains
MakingUnlinedLoopTabCurtains
Seamthefabricwidthstogetherasnecessaryforeachcurtainpanel,addinganyhalfwidthsatthereturnendsofthepanels.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.
Pressundertheloweredge8"(20.5cm)forthehem.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifthepanelhasmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.
Refoldtheloweredge,forminga4"(10cm)double-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.
Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge.Thenfold2"(5cm)totherightside,formingafacing.Attheoutercorners,stitchthefacingtothecurtain3"(7.5cm)fromtheedges(arrow).Trimthefacingtowithin¼"(6mm)ofthestitching;trimoffthetop1"(2.5cm)ofthesidehemallowance.
Foldeachtabinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamalongthecutedge.
Turnthetabsrightsideout.Centertheseaminthebackofeachtab;press.
Marktheplacementforthetabs,evenlyspacedalongtheupperhemofthecurtain,withthefirstandlasttabsevenwiththeouteredges.Fold
thetabsinhalfandslidethemunderthefacingwiththerawedgesinthefold;pin.Stitchacrossthecurtaintop,½"(1.3cm)fromthefold.
Pressunder1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehems.Turnthefacingtothecurtainback;press.Stitchthesidehems,encasingadraperyweightinthehemlayersatthelowercornersoffloor-lengthcurtains.Attheuppercorners,thehemwilldisappearunderthefacing.Stitchalongthelowerfoldofthefacing.
Hangthecurtainfromtherod.Spacethetabsevenlyontherod.Trainthecurtaintofallinsoftfolds,withthefabricatthetabsrollingforwardandthefabricbetweenthetabsrollingtowardthewindow.
MakingButtonTabCurtains
Followsteps1to5opposite.Centertheseaminthebackofthetab;press,avoidingsharpcreasesontheouteredges.Markapoint¼"(6mm)fromtheloweredgeontheseam;markpoints1¼"(3.2cm)fromtheloweredgeontheouterfolds.
Sewfromthemarkontheouterfoldtothemarkontheseam;pivot,andstitchtothemarkontheoppositefold,formingthepointofthetab.Trimtheseamto¼"(6mm).Turnthetabrightsideout;press.
Followstep7,butsecureonlytheopenendofthetabsunderthefacing,withtheseamagainsttherightsideofthecurtain.
Finishthecurtainsasinstep8.Turnthetabsdownovertheupperedgeofthecurtain,aligningtheouterpointsofthetabstothelowerstitchingline;pin.Tackthetabssecurelywiththesewingmachine.Sewbuttonsoverthestitches.Hangthecurtainsasinstep9.
MakingLinedTabCurtains
Followsteps1to3forunlinedtabcurtainsopposite.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldhemintheliningandomitdraperyweightsinthelining.
Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesides.Theupperedgeoftheliningwillbe2½"(6.5cm)belowtheupperedgeofthecurtainpanel.Atthebottom,theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Pin.
Completethecurtainasonpage318,steps4to9,handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.
MakingTieTabCurtains
Followsteps1to4forlooptabcurtains.Foldeachtabinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Stitcha¼"(6mm)seamalongthecutedgeandoneend.Turnthetabsrightsideoutandpress.
Followstep7,butstacktwotabswithseamsonoppositesides,securingonlytheopenendsofthetabsunderthefacing.
Finishthecurtainsasinstep8.Hangthecurtainsasinstep9,tyingthetabsovertherod.
CLASSICROD-POCKETCURTAINS
Rod-pocketcurtainsareoftenchosenforastationarywindowtreatmentthatisstylishandeasytosew.Withamplefullnessandadeep,rufflyheading,classicrod-pocketcurtainstakeonafeminine,romanticappearance.Withlessfullnessandashorterheading,thelookbecomesmoretailoredandmodern.Eitherway,thefluidlinesandgatheredfabricsoftenthehardsurfacesandedgesofthewindow.
Rod-pocketcurtainshaveaheadingandrodpocket.Theheadingistheportionatthetopofarod-pocketcurtainthatformsarufflewhenthecurtainisontherod.Thedepthoftheheadingisthedistancefromthetopofthecurtaintothetopstitchinglineoftherodpocket.Therodpocketisthe“tunnel”wheretherodorpoleisinserted;stitchinglinesatthetopandbottomoftherodpocketkeeptherodinplace.Todeterminethedepthoftherodpocket,measurearoundthewidestpartoftherodorpole;add½"(1.3cm)easetothismeasurement,anddividebytwo.
Todesignyourrod-pocketcurtains,firstdecidehowyouwillhangthem.Severaltypesofrodscanbeused,includingflatrodsinwidthsof1",2½",and4½"(2.5,6.5,and11.5cm).Woodandmetalpolesetswithelbowsorfinialscanalsobeusedandareavailableinseveraldiameters.Whenacurtainrodorpolesetwithelbowsisused,sidesofthecurtainpanelswraptothewall.Thisportioniscalledthereturn.Forcurtainsmountedonpoleswithfinials,returnscanbecreatedbymakinganopeninginthefrontoftherodpocketforinsertingthepole.
Rod-pocketcurtainsworkwellwithavarietyoffabrics.Unlinedrod-pocketcurtainscanbemadefromsheersorlaces,creatingalightweighttreatmentthatallowsfilteredlighttoentertheroom.Forcurtainsmadefrommedium-weightdecoratorfabrics,liningcanbeusedtomakethecurtainsmoredurableandopaque,addextrabody,andsupportthesidehemsandheading.Forsheerfabrics,allowtwo-and-one-halftothreetimesthelengthoftherodforfullness;forheavierfabrics,allowtwototwo-and-one-halftimes.
Beforecuttingthefabric,decidewherethewindowtreatmentshouldbepositionedandmountthecurtainrodorpole.Bracketsareusuallymountedonthewalljustoutsidethewindowframesothebottomoftherodisevenwiththetopoftheframe.Measurefromtheloweredgeoftherodtowhereyouwanttheloweredgeofthecurtain.Todeterminethefinishedlengthofthecurtain,addthedesireddepthoftheheadingandrodpockettothismeasurement.Thisisthefinishedlengthofthecurtainpanel.
CuttingDirections
Thecutlengthofthefabricisequaltothefinishedlengthofthecurtainplusthelowerhemallowance(seechartonpage315)plusthedepthoftheheadingandtherodpocketplus½"(1.3cm)forturn-underattheupperedge.
Thecutwidthofthefabricisequaltotheamountofspaceyouwanttocover(includingreturns)multipliedbythedesiredfullness.Dividethisamountbythewidthofthefabricandroundupordowntothenearestwholeorhalfwidth,tofindthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneed.Usefullorhalfwidthsoffabricforeachcurtainpanel.
Multiplythecutlengthbythetotalnumberofwidthsneededtodeterminetheamountoffabrictobuy.Buyanextrapatternrepeatperfabricwidthformatchingpatterns(page222).
Forlinedcurtains,cuttheliningfabric5"(12.7cm)shorterthanthedecoratorfabric.Thecutwidthoftheliningisthesameasthedecoratorfabric.
YOUWILLNEED
standardcurtainrodorpolesetwithfinialsorelbows
toolsandhardwareforinstallation
decoratorfabric
draperyliningforlinedcurtains
draperyweightsforfloor-lengthcurtains
fusibleinterfacing
MakingUnlinedRod-PocketCurtains
Seamthefabricwidthstogether,ifnecessary,foreachcurtainpanel.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamallowancestogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.
Pressundertheloweredgethefullamountofthehemallowance.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifyouaremakingfloor-lengthcurtainswithmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.
Refoldtheloweredge,formingadouble-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.
Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch,usingablindstitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachcurtainpanel.
Pressunder½"(1.3cm)ontheupperedge.Thenpressunderanamountequaltotherod-pocketdepthplustheheadingdepth.Ifthecurtainwillbemountedonapolewithelbowreturns,omitsteps6to8.
Mounttherodonawooden,keyhole,orelbowbracket.Measurethe
distancefromthewalltothecenterofthepole.
Unfoldtheupperedgeofthecurtainonthereturnsideofthepanel.Ontherightsideofthefabric,measurefromthesideofthecurtainadistanceequaltothemeasurementinstep6;markatthecenteroftherodpocket.Ifthecurtainwillbemountedonarodwithkeyholebrackets,omitstep8.
Cuta1"(2.5cm)stripoffusibleinterfacing,1"(2.5cm)longerthanthedepthoftherodpocket.Fusethestriptothewrongsideofthecurtainpanel,centeringitdirectlyunderthemarkmadeinstep7.Ontherightsideofthepanel,stitchabuttonholeatthemark,fromthetoptothebottomoftherodpocket.Refoldtheupperedgeofthepanelalongthepressedlinesandpin.
Stitchclosetothefirstfold;stitchagainatthedepthoftheheading,usingtapeonthebedofthesewingmachineasastitchingguide.
MakingLinedRod-PocketCurtains
Followsteps1to3forunlinedrod-pocketcurtainsopposite.Repeatforthelining,butmakea2"(5cm)double-foldhemintheliningandomitdraperyweightsinthelining.
Placethecurtainpanelandliningpanelwrongsidestogether,matchingtherawedgesatthesidesandupperedge;pin.Atthebottom,theliningpanelwillbe1"(2.5cm)shorterthanthecurtainpanel.Completethecurtainasinsteps4to9,handlingthedecoratorfabricandliningasonefabric.
InstallingRod-pocketCurtains
PolewithwoodenbracketsandfinialsRemovethefinials;insertthepoleintotherodpocketwithendsofthepoleextendingthroughthebuttonholes.Reattachthefinials;mountthepole.Securethereturntothewoodenbracket,usingself-adhesivehookandlooptape.
PolewithkeyholebracketandfinialsSlitcenteroftherodpocketatthepointmarkedinstep7opposite.Insertthepoleintotherodpocket.Pullthereturnovertheendofpole,aligningslittofinialscrewhole;attachfinialsthroughslits,andmountthepole.Attachapin-onringtotheinneredgeofthereturn,andsecuretoacuphookortenterhookinwall.
PolewithelbowsInsertthepolethroughtherodpocket;pullthecurtainbacktoexposesmallscrews.Mountthepoleonbrackets.Slidethecurtainoverbrackets.
PINCH-PLEATEDDRAPERIES
Classicpleateddraperiesaretheultimatewindowtreatmentforversatilityandstyle.Installedontraverserods,theyeasilyopentorevealthefullwindowview.Whenclosed,theyofferprivacy,lightcontrol,andeveninsulation.Theycanalsobemadeasstationarydraperies.Traditionalthreefoldpinchpleatswillcreateuniform,gracefulfolds.
Theinstructionsthatfollowareforapairofdraperypanelsmountedonatwo-way-drawtraverserod.Whendesigningthetreatment,allowforthestackingspace(page273)atthesidesofthewindowsothedraperieswillclearthewindowwhentheyareopen.Theactualstackingspacevaries,dependingontheweightofthefabric,thefullnessofthedraperies,andwhetherornottheyarelined,butisestimatedatone-thirdthewidthofthewindows;allowforone-halfofthestackingspaceoneachsideofthewindow.
Awiderangeofdecoratorfabricscanbeused,includingsheers,casements,semi-sheers,andmedium-weightfabricsinbothprintsandsolids.Two-and-one-halftimesfullnessisusedformostdraperies,butforsheers,threetimesfullnesscanbeused.Forlacedraperies,usetwo-and-one-halftimesfullnesssothepatternofthelaceisnoticeableinthefinisheddraperies.
Afteryoumeasurethewindowanddeterminethestackingspace,purchasetherodandmountitonthewallaboveandtotheoutsideofthewindowframe.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromaconventionaltraverserod,measureforthefinishedlengthfromthetopoftherodto
whereyouwanttheloweredgeofthedraperies;thenadd½"(1.3cm)sothedraperieswillextendabovetherod.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromadecorativerod,measurefromthebottomoftherodtothedesiredfinishedlength.Ifthedraperieswillhangfromapolesetwithrings,measurefromthepinholesintheringstothedesiredfinishedlength.
CuttingDirections
Usethefabricworksheetonpage319tofindthenecessarymeasurements.Severalwidthsoffabricareoftenrequired.Cutthenumberoffabricwidthsyouneedtothecalculatedcutlengthofthedraperies.
YOUWILLNEED
conventionalordecorativetraverserod
toolsandhardwareforinstallation
decoratorfabric
draperyweights
draperyliningforlinedcurtains
buckram,4"(10cm)wide
draperyhooks
MakingUnlinedPinch-PleatedDraperies
Seamthefabricwidthstogetherasnecessary.Ifhalfwidthsareneeded,addthematthesidesofthepanels.Finishtheseamstogether,andpressthemtowardthesideofthepanel.
Pressundertheloweredge8"(20.5cm)forthehem.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Ifthepanelhasmorethanonefabricwidth,tackadraperyweighttotheupperlayeroffabricatthebaseofeachseam,withthebottomoftheweightneartheinnerfold.
Refoldtheloweredge,forminga4"(10cm)double-foldhem,encasingtheweightsattheseams.Pin.Stitch,usingablindstitchforaninvisiblehemorastraightstitchforavisiblehem.
Pressundertheupperedge8"(20.5cm).Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Cutbuckramthewidthofeachdraperypanel.Slipthebuckramunderthefirstfold,andthenrefoldthetop,encasingthebuckram.Pininplace.
Pressunder3"(7.5cm)ononeside.Thenunfoldthepressededgeandturnthecutedgeback,aligningittothepressedfoldline.Presstheouterfold.Insertadraperyweightbetweenthelayersofthelowerhem,andtackitinplace.Refoldtheedge,forminga1½"(3.8cm)double-foldsidehem.Stitch.Repeatforeachsideofeachcurtainpanel.
Determinethenumberandsizeofpleatsandspacesbetweenthem
byworkingthroughthechartatright.Therecommendedamountoffabricforeachpleatis4"to6"(10to15cm).Therecommendedspacebetweenpleatsis3½"to4"(9to10cm).Ifthecalculationfromtheworksheetsresultsinpleatsorspacesthataregreaterthantheamountrecommended,addonemorepleatandspace.Ifthecalculationresultsinpleatsorspacessmallerthantheamountrecommended,subtractonepleatandspace.
Cutbuckramtemplatesinsizestomatchthedeterminedpleatsandspaces;cutfiveofeachfor48"(122cm)fabricorsixofeachfor54"(137cm)fabric.Marktheoverlapandreturnontherightsideofonepanel,usingchalk.Arrangethetemplatesonthefirstfabricwidth,withthefirstpleatstartingattheoverlaplineandthelastpleatendingattheseamline.Therewillbeonelessspace.Adjustthepleatsizestoarrangethespacesevenly;spacesmustremainuniform.Marktheheadingevenwiththeouteredgesofthespacetemplates.
Arrangethetemplatesonthesecondfabricwidthfromtheoverlap,withthefirstspacestartingatthefirstseamlinefromtheoverlapandthelastpleatendingatthenextseamline;usethesamenumberofpleatsasspaces.Repeatforeachpanel.(Thelastpleatendsatthereturnmarkinthelastfabricwidth.)Adjustthepleatsasnecessary;markthespaces.Ifthereturnendofthepanelhasahalfwidthoffabric,planfortwopleatsifthefabricis48"(122cm)wideorforthreepleatsifthefabricis54"(137cm)wide.Transferthemarkingstotheoppositepanelinmirror-imageplacement.
Foldeachpleatbybringingthepleatlinestogether;pin.Creasethe
buckramonthefold.
Stitchonthepleatlinefromthetopoftheheadingtotheloweredgeofthebuckram;backstitchtosecure.Repeatforeachpleatineachpanel.
Checkthefinishedwidthofthepanelalongtheheading.Adjustthesizeofafewpleatsifnecessarytoadjustthewidthofthepanel.
Todivideeachstitchedpleatintothreeevenpleats,graspthecentercreaseandpushitdowntowardthestitchingline,forcingthesidestospreadout.Formthefabricintothreeevenpleatsandpresscreasesinthebuckramwithyourfingers.
Bar-tackpleatsbymachinejustabovetheloweredgeofthebuckram;ortackpleatsbyhand,usingastabstitchandheavy-dutythimble.
HangingandDressingtheDraperies
Insertdraperyhooks,withonehookateachpleatandonehooknear
eachendofthepanel.Onaconventionaltraverserod ,thetopofthehookis1¾"(4.5cm)fromtheupperedgeoftheoverdraperyor1¼"(3.2cm)fromtheupperedgeoftheunderdrapery.Onadecorator
traverserod ,thetopofthehookis¾"to1"(2to2.5cm)fromthe
upperedge.Onapolesetwithrings ,thetopofthehookis¼"(6mm)fromtheupperedge.(Shownontraverserodsforclarity.)Creasethebuckrammidwaybetweeneachpleat;folditforwardifaconventionaltraverserodisbeingused,orfoldittothebackifadecorativetraverserodisbeingused.Thisisoftenreferredtoas“cracking”thebuckram.Aftercrackingthebuckram,pressthedraperies,usingawarm,dryiron.
Hangtheendhookatthereturnintheholeonthesideofthe
bracket .Hangthehookofthefirstpleatintheholeatthefront
cornerofthebracket .
Hangthehooksformiddlepleatsontheslides;removeanyslidesthatarenotused.Hangthehookforthelastpleatinthefirstholeofthemasterslide.Hangtheendhookontheoverlapofthedraperyintheendholeofthemasterslide.Pinchthehooksonthemasterslidesclosedtokeepthemfromcatchingwhenthedraperiesaredrawn;also,pullthefrontmasterslideslightlyforward,ifnecessary.
Openthedraperiescompletelyintothestackedposition.Checktheheadingtobesurethebuckramisfoldedasitwascrackedinstep2.
Startingattheheading,guidethepleatsintoevenlyspacedsoftfoldsofequaldepth;followthegrainlineofthefabrictokeepthepleatsperpendiculartothefloor.
Stapleanarrowstripofmatchingfabricormuslinaroundthedraperypanel,midwaybetweentheheadingandhem,toholdthepleatsinplace.Avoidpullingthefabrictootightlyoryouwillcreateunwantedwrinkles.
Stapleasecondstripoffabricatthehemline.Checktoseethatthedraperieshangstraightdownfromtherod.Leavethedraperiesinthispositionfortwoweekstosetthepleats.Inhumidconditions,oneweekmaybesufficient.
MakingLinedPleatedDraperies
Preparethedraperypanelsasinsteps1to3onpage318.Repeatfortheliningpanels,making2"(5cm)double-foldlowerhemsandomittingweights.
Placethedraperypanelonalargeflatsurface.Laytheliningpanelontopofthedraperypanel,wrongsidestogether,withtheloweredgeofthelining1"(2.5cm)abovetheloweredgeofthedraperypanel;rawedgesshouldbeevenatthesides.
Marktheliningpanel8"(20.5cm)fromtheupperedgeofthedraperypanel.Trimonthemarkedline.Thiswillbeevenwiththetopfoldoftheheading.
Finishthedraperiesasinsteps4to13onpages318to321,treatingthedecoratorfabricandliningasone.Theliningwillbecaughtinthestitchesofthepleatsandinthesidehems.
PleatAlternatives
Youcanchangethelookofpleateddraperieswithanyofthesepleatvariations.Followthesamedirectionsuptothepointofmakingthepleats.Thenformthepleatsinoneofthesestyles.
GobletPleats
Tackthepleatsjustabovetheloweredgeofthebuckram.Formeachpleatintoaroundedgobletshape.Insertwaddedtissuepaperintothepleatstohelpthemretaintheirshape.
FanPleats
Tackthepleatstogetherattheupperedgeofthedraperyandletthemfanoutfromthetop.
InvertedPinchPleats
Foldthepleatstothebackinsteadofthefront,andtackthemtogether.Thefrontoftheheadingwillhaveaflatappearance.
CartridgePleats
Planforonemorepleatperfabricwidthandhalfwidth.Donotcreasethebuckramwhenyoustitchthepleats,butallowthemtoformaroundtubeshape.Toholdtheshapeofthecartridges,insertasectionoffoampipeinsulationintoeachpleat.
BedandBath
FLANGEDPILLOWSHAMS
Flangedshamstransformordinarybedpillowsintocustomdesignerpillows.Theycanbemadetofitstandard-size,queen-size,orking-sizepillows.Anoverlappingclosureinthecenterofthebackmakesiteasytoinsertandremovethepillow.Selectdecoratorfabrictocoordinatewithyourduvetorbedspread.
CuttingDirections
Cutashamfrontandtwoshambackpiecesaccordingtothemeasurementsgiveninthechartonpage326.
YOUWILLNEED
15/8yd.(1.5m)decoratorfabricforeachpillowsham
thread
maskingtape
HowtoSewaPillowSham
Press½"(1.3cm)double-foldhemsononelongedgeofeachbackpiece(thesewillbethevertical,overlappingedges).Stitchthehems.
Placetheshambackpiecesovertheshamfront,rightsidestogether,aligningthecutedgesandoverlappingthebackhemmededges3"(7.5cm).Pinthelayerstogetheraroundtheouteredge.
Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromtheedge,pivotingatthecorners.Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyatthefourcornerstoremoveexcessbulk.
Insertaheavycardboardtubeoraseamrollintotheopeningandplaceitundertheseam.Presstheseamallowancesopen,applyinglightpressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.
Turnthepillowshamrightsideout,reachinginthroughtheoverlaptopullouteachcorner.Insertapointturnerorsimilartoolintothesham,gentlypushingthepointsouttoformperfectcorners.
Presstheseamededges.Withthefrontfacingup,pinthelayerstogetherabout3"(7.5cm)fromthefoursides.Marksmalldots3"(7.5cm)fromthecornersoftheshamstohelpyouknowwhentopivot.
Placeapieceofmaskingtapeonthebedofyourmachine3"(7.5cm)totherightoftheneedle,paralleltotheseamallowanceguide.Stitchthepillowshamflange,guidingtheseamededgealongthetapeandpivotingateachcorner.
DUVETCOVER
Aduvetcoverkeepsaduvetorcomfortercleanandiseasilyremovedforlaundering.Thesewingstepsarefairlysimple;thedifficultycomesinhandlinglargeexpansesoffabric.Setupacardtablenexttoyoursewingmachinestationtohelpwiththetask.Duvetcoversusuallyrequiretwoormorewidthsoffabricsewntogetherforthefrontandback:onefullwidthdownthecenterwithequalpartialwidthsalongthesides.Choosealightweight,firmlywoven,washablefabric.
HowtoSewaDuvetCover
Measureyourduvetorcomfortertodeterminethefinishedsizeofthecover.Usetheformulaonpage330todeterminethecutlengthandcutwidthofthepiecesandtheamountoffabricyouwillneed.Weareusingnumbersforaqueen-sizeduvetcover;yoursmaybedifferent.
Measureandmarkthelocationofeachcutalongtheselvage.Cutthepieces,followingthecuttingguidelines(page221).Ifyoudonothavetomatchapattern(page222),cutawaytheselvages.Cutonefrontandonebackpieceinhalflengthwise.
YOUWILLNEED
fabricfortopandundersideofduvetcover,amountdeterminedinstep1
thread
buttons,½"to5/8"(1.3to1.5cm)diameter
twilltape
foursmallplasticrings
Pinahalf-widthpiecetothefull-widthfrontpiece,rightsidestogether,alongthelengthwiseedges.Matchthepattern,ifnecessary,followingtheguidelinesonpage222.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.Repeatfortheotherside.Finishtheseamallowancesandpressthemopen.
Measureandcuttheduvetfronttotheexactcutwidth,asdeterminedinthechart.Besuretotrimequalamountsfromeachside.
Repeatsteps3and4fortheduvetcoverback.Markaline12"(30.5cm)fromtheloweredgeoftheback.Cutonthemarkedline.
Pressa1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemintheupperedgeofthesmallbackpiece.Stitchthehem.
Pressandstitch1½"(3.8cm)double-foldhemontheloweredgeofthelargebackpiece.Marktheplacementandlengthforbuttonholesonthehemofthelargebackpiece,centeredbetweenthefoldandstitchingline.Placeoutermarks6"(15cm)fromeachsideandtheothersspacedabout10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm)apart.Runthemarksperpendiculartothehemedge.
Sewbuttonholesoverthemarkedlines.Applyliquidfraypreventertothebuttonholes;allowtodryandthencutthebuttonholesopen.
Overlapthehemlinesofthebackpieces1½"(3.8cm),andpinthemtogetherattheouteredges.Marktheplacementforthebuttonsonthehemlineofthesmallbackpiece.Sewbuttonsoverthemarks.
Buttonthebackpiecestogether.Placetheduvetcoverbackoverthefront,rightsidestogether,aligningtheouteredges.Pinthelayers
together.Folda20"(51cm)pieceoftwilltapeinhalf.Alignthefoldededgetotheouteredgeoftheduvetcover½"(1.3cm)fromthecorner,andpininplace.Repeatateachcorner.
Stitcha½"(1.3cm)seamaroundtheedgeoftheduvetcover,pivotingateachcornerandcatchingthefoldedendofthetwilltapeinthestitching.Trimtheseamallowancesdiagonallyatthefourcornerstoremoveexcessbulk.Avoidcuttingthroughthetwilltape.
Unbuttontheopening.Insertaheavycardboardtubeoraseamrollintotheopeningandplaceitundertheseam.Presstheseamallowancesopen,applyinglightpressurewiththetipoftheirondownthecreaseoftheseam.
Stitchaplasticringateachcornerofyourduvetorcomforter.Spreadtheduvetorcomforteroutoveryournewduvetcoverandtiethetwilltapetotheringsateachcorner.Nowturntheduvetcoverrightsideout,encasingtheduvetorcomforterinside.
BEDSKIRTS
Bedskirtshidetheboxspringsandlegsofabedwhenacomforterorduvetisusedforthetopcover.Gatheredskirtsgiveasofteffect;pleatedskirtsaremoretailored.Bothstylescoverthesidesandfootofthebed,andcanbemadewithsplitcorners(toaccommodatebedpostsandfootboards)orcontinuouscorners(forbedswithoutfootboards).
Gatheredskirtscanbemadewithonelayerortwo.Whenmakingatwo-layeredskirt,preparethepanelsseparatelyandthengatherthemtogetherasonepiece.Theweightofthefabricandthedesiredlookwilldeterminethefullnessoftheskirt.Allowuptothreetimesfullnessforverylightweight,semi-sheerfabric,ifyouwantafulllook.Doublefullnessworksbetterformedium-weightfabric.
YOUWILLNEED
decoratorfabric
fittedsheet
or
muslin,broadcloth,orflatsheetfordeck
Pleatedskirtshaveboxpleatsatthefootcornersandcentersofeachside.Forking-sizebeds,youmayalsowanttoaddapleatinthecenterofthefoot.Thedirectionsthatfollowallowfor6"(15cm)pleats.Thereisa1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemattheloweredgeandfrontedges.
Bedskirtsyoubuyinastoreareattachedtoaplainfabricdeckthatslidesbetweenthemattressandboxspring.Thedirectionsforthepleatedskirtincorporateadeck,whichcanbemadefrommuslin,broadcloth,oraflatsheet.Whenyoumakeyourownbedskirt,youcansewittoafittedsheet,whichkeepstheskirtfromshiftingoutofposition.Thedirectionsforthegatheredskirtshowhowtoattachittoafittedsheet.Bothstylescanbemadeeitherway.
CuttingDirections
Forgathereddustrufflelength,cuttwopieceseachthelengthoftheboxspringtimesthedesiredfullness,plus4"(10cm)for1"(2.5cm)double-foldsidehems.Cutonepiecethewidthoftheboxspringtimesthedesiredfullness,plus4"(10cm)for1"(2.5cm)double-foldhems.Theskirtdepthisequaltothedistancefromthetopoftheboxspringtothefloorplus4"(10cm).
Forpleatedskirt,cutthedeck1"(2.5cm)widerand1"(2.5cm)longerthantheboxspring.Cutbedskirtonlengthwisegrainoffabric.Cuttwopiecesthelengthoftheboxspringplus18"(46cm).Cutonepiecethewidthoftheboxspringplus18"(46cm).Bedskirtdepthequalsdistancefromtopofboxspringtofloorminus¼"(6mm),plus2½"(6.5cm)fortheseamandhem.
HowtoSewaGatheredSkirtwithOpenCorners
Stitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemalongloweredgesofthethreepieces,thenturnunderandstitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemonbothendsofeachpiece.
Gather1"(2.5cm)fromupperedgewithrufflerattachment ,two-stringshirringtape ,tworowsofbasting ,orzigzagstitchingoveracord .
Placefittedsheetonboxspring.Onsheet,markupperedgeofboxspring.Markevery12"(30.5cm)alongthislineformatchingtoskirt.Markupperedgeofskirtevery24"(61cm)ifusingdoublefullness;every36"(91.5cm)fortriplefullness.
Pinrightsidesofskirtpiecesalongthreesidesofsheet,rawedgesonmarkedlineandhemsoverlappingatcorners.Matchmarkingsonskirtpiecestomarkingsonsheet.Pullupgatherstofit.
Removesheetfromboxspring,keepingskirtpinnedinplace.Stitch1"(2.5cm)fromrawedgeofskirt.
Turnskirtdownoverloweredgeofsheet.Topstitch½"(1.3cm)fromseam,stitchingthroughskirtandsheet.
HowtoSewaPleatedBedSkirt
Folddeckinhalflengthwise,thencrosswisesocornersaretogether.Usingsaucerasaguide,cutcornersingentlecurve.
Foldcurvedcornersinhalftodeterminecenters;markfoldwith¼"(6mm)clips.Also,markcenterofeachsidewithclip.
Stitchskirtpieces,rightsidestogether,onnarrowends,withshorterpieceincenter.Stitch1"(2.5cm)double-foldhemonloweredgeofskirtandonunstitchednarrowendsofskirtpieces.
Pinskirttodeck,rightsidestogether,withstitchingofsidehematclipononeendofdeck(arrow).Form6"(15cm)pleatsatclipsonsidesandcornersofdeck.Seamwillfallinsidepleats.
Removeskirtandmachine-bastepleats.Repositionskirtondeck.Pin,rightsidestogether.Clipcenterofcornerpleats.Stitch½"(1.3cm)seam.
Pressseamallowancetowarddeck.Press¼"(6mm)double-foldhematopenendofdeck;stitchhem.Topstitchtheskirtseamallowancetodeck.Presspleats.
SHOWERCURTAIN
Abathroomshowercurtainiseasytosew.Youcanchoosefabrictocoordinatewithyourfixtures,tilecolor,andwindowtreatmentfabric.Thisshowercurtainhasgrommetsalongtheupperhem,spacedtoalignwiththegrommetsinastandardshowercurtainliner.JointhefabricpanelswithaFrenchseamtogivethecurtainaneatappearancefrombothsides.Tomaketheshowercurtainwashable,selectawashablefabricandpreshrinkitbeforeyoucutit.
CuttingDirections
Cuttwofull-widthpieces82"(208.5cm)long.Curtainwillbetrimmedtonecessarycutwidthinstep2.
HowtoSewaShowerCurtain
Cutawaytheselvagesevenly.JointhetwolengthstogetherusingaFrenchseam(page106).Thetotalseamallowancewidthis½"(1.3cm),souse¼"(6mm)seamsforeachpass.
Cutoneverticaledgeoftheshowercurtainsothetotalwidthis76"(193cm).Thefinishedwidthofastandardshowercurtainis72"(183cm).Thisallows2"(5cm)oneachsideforhemming.
Pressa3"(7.6cm)double-foldhemintotheloweredge;stitchthehem.
Pressa2"(7.6cm)double-foldhemintoeachside.Unfoldthefabricattheuppercorners.Trimouttheexcessfabricfromtheinnerlayer,asshown,trimmingtowithin3/8"(1cm)ofthefold.Refoldtheupperedge,andpin;stitchtheupperhem.
Marktheplacementfortwelveevenlyspacedgrommetsalongtheupperhem,usingafabricmarker.Positionthem¾"(2cm)fromtheupperedgewiththeoutermarkscenteredinthesidehems.Readthemanufacturer’sdirectionsforattachingthegrommets,andtestthetechniqueonasampleoffabricfoldedseveraltimes.Attachthegrommets.
YOUWILLNEED
45/8yd.(4.25m)fabric
water-solublefabricmarker
twelvegrommets,size0or¼"(6mm),andattachingtool
threadtomatchthefabric
TableFashionsCustomizedtabletopfashionsareasimple,cost-effectivewaytochangethelookofadiningroomorkitchen.Home-sewntableclothsandnapkins,unlikepurchasedones,arenotlimitedtoasmallselectionofstandardsizes.Youcanscaletableclothstofittheexactsizeandshapeofyourtable.Withanabundantsupplyoffabriccolors,patterns,andtextures,youcanmakechoicesthatcomplementyourroomdécor.
SelectingFabrics
Youmayfindasmallselectionof72"(183cm)-widetableclothfabricsinbasiccolorsatthefabricstore.Inmostcases,yousimplybuythelengthyouneedandhemtheedgesforaninstanttablecloth.Manydecoratorfabricsaregoodchoicesfortableclothsbuttheyarenotwideenoughtoprovidetheneededcoverageinonefabricwidth,soyoumustpiecewidthstogether.Avoidacenterseambyusingafullfabricwidthinthecenterandstitchingnarrow,equalsidepanelstoit.
MeasuringtheTable
Thelengthofthetableclothfromtheedgeofthetabletothebottomoftheclothiscalledthedrop.Theusualdroplengthfortableclothsis10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm),whichisatornearchairseatheight.Besuretoincludethedroplengthinyourmeasurements.
Threecommondroplengthsare:short,10"to12"(25.5to30.5cm);mid-length,16"to24"(40.5to61cm);andfloor-length,28"to29"(71to73.5cm).Shortclothsendataboutseatheightandaregoodforeverydayuse.Mid-lengthclothsaremoreformal.Elegantfloor-lengthcoveringsareusedforbuffetanddecoratortables.
Roundtablecloth.Measurethediameterofthetable,thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Thesizeofthetableclothisthediameterofthetableplustwicethedroplengthplus1"(2.5cm)foranarrowhemallowance.Anarrowhemistheeasiestwaytofinishthecurvededgeofaroundtablecloth.
Squareorrectangulartablecloth.Measurethelengthandwidthofthetabletop;thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Addthedroplengthtwicetobothlengthandwidthmeasurementstofindthefinishedtableclothsize.Tofindthecutsize,add1"(2.5cm)toeachmeasurementforanarrowhemor4"(10.2cm)forawiderhem.
Ovaltablecloth.Measurethelengthandwidthofthetabletop,thendeterminethedroplengthofthecloth.Addthedroplengthtwicetobothlengthandwidthmeasurementstofindthefinishedtableclothsize.Tofindthecutsize,add1"(2.5cm)toeachmeasurementforanarrow
hem.Becauseovaltablesvaryinshape,markthefinishedsizewiththefabriconthetable.Centerthefabriconthetableandkeepitinplacewithweights.Thenuseahemmarkerorcardboardgaugetomarkthedroplengthevenlyaroundthecurves.
ROUNDTABLECLOTHS
Therearetwowaystofinishtheedgeofaroundtablecloth:a¼"(6mm)double-foldhemorbyaddingfabric-coveredwelting.Todeterminetheyardageforaroundtablecloth,dividethetableclothdiameterbythefabricwidthless1"(2.5cm).Countfractionsasonewidth.Thisisthenumberofwidthsyouneed.Thenmultiplythenumberofwidthsbythediameteranddivideby36"(100cm)tofindthetotalyards(meters).
CuttingDirections
Thecutsizeofthetableclothisthediameterofthetableplustwicethedroplength.Add1"(2.5cm)foranarrowhemallowance.Ifyouwanttofinishtheedgewithwelting,thecutsizeisthesameasthefinishedsize.Determinewhereyouwanttheseamsinyourtablecloth,usingoneof
theseoptions: Option .Useoneseamwhenthediameterofthetableclothislessthanone-and-one-halftimesthefabricwidth.Subtractthefabricwidthfromthetableclothdiameter.Cutastriponthelengthwisegrainofonefabricpiecethatis2"(5.1cm)widerthanthismeasurement.
Option .Usetwoseamswhenthediameterofthetableclothismorethanone-andone-halftimesthefabricwidth.Cutonefabricpieceinhalflengthwise.
HowtoCutaRoundTablecloth
Joinfabricpanels,rightsidestogether,with½"(1.3cm)seamstoformasquare.Foldsquareintofourths.Pinlayerstogethertopreventslipping.
Tieastringtoamarkingpencil.Pintheotherendofthestringtothecenterfoldedcornerofthefabricadistancefromthepencilequaltothecutradiusofthetablecloth.Markthearc.Cutonthemarkedlines;removethepins.
HowtoSewaWeltedHem
Stitcharoundtablecloth¼"(6mm)fromedge.Pressunderonstitchingline.Pressunder¼"(6mm)again,easingfullnessaroundcurves.Edgestitchclosetofoldededge.
HowtoSewaNarrowHem
Multiplydiameteroftableclothby3½todeterminelengthofweltingneeded.Cutandjoinbiasstrips,rightsidestogether,tocoverwelting(page248).
Covercordingandattachtorightsideofcloth.Zigzagseamandpresstobackoftablecloth.Topstitch¼"(6mm)fromweltedseam.
SQUAREANDRECTANGULARTABLECLOTHS
Maketableclothsthedesiredwidthbyjoiningfabricwidthsasnecessary,usingfullwidthsinthecenterandpartialwidthsonthelengthwiseedges.Straightenthecrosswiseendsoffabric(page221)tosquarethecorners.Useplain,French,oroveredgeseams.
Hemtheedgeswithdouble-foldhemsof¼"(6mm)widthoruse1"(2.5cm)widthtogivethemmoreweight.Miteringistheneatestwaytosquarethecornersbecauseitcoversrawedgesandeliminatesbulk.
Todeterminetheamountoffabricyouneed,dividethetotalwidthofthetableclothbythewidthofyourfabric,less1"(2.5cm)forseamallowances.Countfractionsasonewidth.Multiplythisfigure,whichisthenumberofpanelsneededbythetotallengthofthetablecloth.Dividethisnumberby36"(100cm)togetthetotalyards(meters)required.
CuttingDirections
Thecutlengthofthetableclothisthelengthofthetabletopplustwicethedroplengthplus4"(10cm)forhems.Thecutwidthisthewidthofthetabletopplustwicethedroplengthplus4"(10cm)forhems.Fortableclothswiderthanonefabricwidth,cuttwopiecestothenecessarylengthandsewthemtogether,followingtheguidelinesatleft.Thencuttothenecessarywidth.
HowtoSewaWideMiteredHem
Pressunder2"(5cm)onallfouredgesofthecloth.Unfold.Presseachcornerdiagonallyatpointwherecreasesintersect.Trimoffcornerdiagonallyfromonefoldlinetotheother.Usedotoffabricgluesticktoholdcornerinplace.
Turneachcutedgein,aligningittofirstfoldline;pressouterfold.
Refoldhem,encasingrawedge.Pin.Atcorners,creaseswillmeet,formingmiter.Usemoregluesticktoholdfoldsinplace.
Edgestitchalonginnerfold.Pivotatcorners.Press.
REVERSIBLEPLACEMATS
Sparkupyourdiningroomtableorbreakfastnookwithreversibleoctagonalplacemats.Theseplacematsarelinedtotheedgeandcanbemadereversiblebyselectingtwodecoratorfabrics.Welting(page248),sewnintotheouteredgeoftheplacemat,isavailableindifferentsizesandcolors,oryoucanmakeyourown.Foreaseofapplication,chooseweltingnolargerthan "(4.5mm).
HowtoSewaReversiblePlacemat
Drawa13"×19"(33×48.5cm)rectangle×onpaper.Markpoint3½"(9cm)fromeachcorner.Drawdiagonallinesacrosseachcornerconnectingmarks;cutoffcorners.
Preshrinkfabrics(page220).Topreshrinkwelting,wrapitintolargeloopsandtieitinthemiddlewithlargelooseknot.Soakweltinginwarmwater;squeezeoutexcessmoisture.Placeinnetlaundrybagornylonstockingbeforetossingindryer.Thiswillkeepitfromgettingtootangled.Presstheflatedgeoftheweltingwhendry.
Cutoutfrontandbackforeachplacemat,usingpattern.Makesureedgesareparalleltograinlines.
YOUWILLNEED
forfourplacemats:
paperfordrawingapattern
¾yd.(0.7m)fabricforplacematfronts
¾yd.(0.7m)fabricforplacematbacks
7yd.(6.4m)welting
threadtomatchfabrics
Pinweltingtorightsideofplacematfront.Keepweltingrelaxed.Clipintoseamallowanceofweltingateachcornerofplacematatexactpointwhereweltingmustbend.Clipto,butnotthroughstitchingline,sothatweltingseamallowancesspreadopenandlieflat.
Sewweltingtoplacematfrontasforweltedpillow,page248.
Pinplacematfrontoverback,rightsidestogether,encasingweltingbetweenlayersandaligningouteredges.Stitchjustinsidefirststitchingline,leavinganopeningforturningalongoneside.
Trimseamallowancesdiagonallyateachcorner.Turnbackandpressbackseamallowance½"(1.3cm)fromtheedgeatopening.
Turnplacematrightsideoutthroughopening.Usepointturnertopushoutcorners.Pressplacematuptoweltingasyousmoothandtugweltingouttotheedgewithyourfingers.Slipstitchopeningclosed.
NAPKINS
Coordinatingnapkinsarethefinishingtouchtoyourtabletopfashions.Standardfinishednapkinsare14"or17"(35.5or43cm)square.Beforecuttingthefabric,squaretheends,usingacarpenter’ssquare.Forfringednapkins,squaretheendsbypullingathread.
Napkinhemscanbedecorative.Experimentwithsomeofthedecorativestitchesonyoursewingmachine.Thehemmingtechniquesshownherecanalsobeusedfortableclothsandsingle-layerplacemats.
CuttingDirections
Cutnapkins1"(2.5cm)largerthanfinishedsize.Oneyard(meter)of36"(100cm)-widefabricyieldsfour17"(43cm)napkins.Apieceoffabric45"(115cm)squareyieldsnine14"(35.5cm)napkins.
SixWaystoHemNapkins
SatinStitch.Turnunder½"(1.3cm)onallsides.Mitercorners(page343).Edgestitchalongrawedgetouseasguide.Usewide,closelyspacedzigzagtostitchfromrightsideoveredgestitching.
Zigzagoveredge.Trimloosethreadsfromnapkinedges.Stitchoverrawedge,usingwide,closelyspacedzigzag.Useoveredgefootorspecial-purposefoottomaintainzigzagwidth.
Decorativestitch.Pressunder¼"(6mm)andstitch.Fromrightside,stitchwithadecorativestitch,usingstraightstitchingastheguideline.Blanketstitch(shownabove)givesahemstitchedlook.
Double-foldhem.Turnunder¼"(6mm)onalledgesandpress.Turnunderanother¼"(6mm).Mitercornersasonpage343.Edgestitchclosetofold.
Fringe.Cutnapkinsonapulledthreadtostraightenedges.Stitch½"(1.3cm)fromrawedgeswithshortstraightstitchesornarrowcloselyspacedzigzag.Pulloutthreadsuptothestitchingline.
Sergededge.Overlockedgeswithyourserger.Threadlooperswithwoolynylonthreadforbettercoverage.Stitchtwooppositesides,thenremainingsides,leavinglongtails.Weavetailsbackunderoverlockstitchesfor1"(2.5cm) ;cutoffremainingtail.Orapplyliquidfraypreventeratcorners ;allowtodry,andcutofftails.
Index
aabdomenadjustments,97–98
accessories,12–13activewear,202–211
bballpointpins/needles,25bastingtape,30
bedskirts,333–335beeswaxwithholder,25betweens,25bias,272biasboundfinish,113biasstrips,80
biastape,33blindstitchhemfoot,13bobbins,10bodkin,31bodymeasurements,37
bolsterpillows,237–239boundseamfinishes,112–114boxedcushion,257,260–263boxpillows,234–236braid,33
brocade,62
buckram,272bustadjustments,90–93buttonfoot,13
buttonholeattachments,12buttonholecutter,31buttonholes,164–167buttons,34,168–170,245
cchainstitch,16
clearance,272closures,34,162–183,240–245collars,134–139,190–193cordedpiping,33corduroy,49,51–52
cornersinside,22outside,23
coverstitch,17crewels,25
crosswisegrain,272cuffs,130–133curtains,304–315curvededges,22cushions,256–263cutlength,272
cuttingboard,31
cuttinglayouts,41cuttingtips,80cuttingtools,28
cutwidth,272
ddarts,120–121decoratorfabrics,219–223diagonalfabrics,48directionalfabrics,79
draperies,316–323dressmaker’stracingpaper,26duvetcovers,328–332
eedges
curved,22decorative,246–251easy,148–149elasticized,216–217ribbed,208–211
elastic,33
elasticizededges,216–217elasticizedwaistbands,202–207embroideredfabrics,65–67equipment,24–31cuttingtools,28
handsewing,25markingtools,26measuringtools,27
pressingtools,29sewing-machineneedles,24specialized,30–31
evenfeedfoot,13eyes,34
ffabricpreparation,73–74fabrics.Seealsospecifictypesclassic,48–49classificationof,44decorator,219–223
easy-to-sew,45handlingspecial,46sewingtechniquesfor,47tailoring,185
fashiondrawings,40
fasteners,34finethread,32finish,272finishedlength,272flangedpillowshams,325–327flangepillows,232–233
flat-fellseams,107–108,115,117
flatlockseams,115,118–119flatlockstitch,17flatpanelcurtains,304–307
flounce,272Frenchseams,105–106,115,116,225fringe,251frogs,34fullness,272
fur,69fusibleinterfacings,57,70–72,184–189futoncovers,264–267
ggabardine,48–49gatheredseams,115,118
gathers,122–125glue,30
hhandbasting,82handsewingequipment,25heading,273
heavyweightfabrics,47hems,142–149,196–197,286–287hipadjustments,98–101HongKongfinish,112,113hooksandeyes,34,162–163
iin-seampockets,150,155insidecorners,22
interfacings,57,70–72,184–189interlining,273ironingboard,30irons,29
jjackets
lining,198–199tailoring,185–197
kknife-edgecushions,257,258knife-edgepillows,228–229knits,46,47,55–57,73
llace,65–67laceseambinding,33lamé,62lappedclosures,244–245
layoutofdirectionalfabrics,79pattern,75
ofplaidsandstripes,76–78leather,69lengthadjustments,87–89
leotards,212–217lightweightfabrics,47lining,198–201,273liquidmarkers,81liquidravelpreventer,30
loopturner,31looseweaves,48,50–51lustrousfabrics,62–63
mmachinebasting,81,82man-madefibers,44
markingpens/pencils,26,81markingtips,81–83markingtools,26measuringtools,27medium-weightfabrics,47
metallicfabrics,62milliner’sneedles,25miter,273mockboxpillows,230–231mockup,273mountingboards,282–285
nnapkins,347–348nappedandpilefabrics,46
naturalfibers,44necklinesfinishfor,148–149ribbed,209–211
needlegripper,30needles
handsewing,25serger,15sewing-machine,24
needlethreader,25no-grainfabrics,47
notchedcollars,190–193notions,32–35
oone-waydesignfabrics,46on-grain,273outsidecorners,23
overedgefoot,13overedgeseamfinish,115,116overedgestitch,16overlap,273overlockseams,115
overlockstitch,16
ppants,lining,200–201
paper-backfusibleweb,31parsonschairs,268–271patchpockets,150–154patternadjustmentstobust,90–93guidelinesfor,85
tohips,98–101tolength,87–89methods,86forswimsuitsandleotards,212–213towaistandabdomen,94–98
patterncatalogs,36patternedfabrics,222–223patternenvelope,38–39patternpieces,42patternrepeat,273
patternscomponents,40–43layingout,75selecting,36
pillows,226–251closureoptions,240–245
decorativeedges,246–251
formsandfillings,227typesof,228–239
pillowshams,325–327
pincatcher,31pinch-pleateddraperies,316–323pincushions,25,31pins,25,81,83placemats,344–346
plaids,46,48,76–78plainseams,224pleatingpins,25pockets,150–161pointpresser/clapper,29pointturner,31
polyesterthread,32preparation,fabric,73–74preshrinking,74presscloth,29pressing,81,82
pressingmitt,29pressingtools,29pressureregulation,10–11prints,48projection,273
qquiltingpins,25
rrailroading,273reinforcedseams,115,116
return,273ribbededges,208–211ribbing,55rickrack,33rodpocket,273rod-pocketcurtains,312–315
rolledhemstitch,17rolledseams,115,117Romanshades,296–303rotarycutter,28ruffles,250
rules,27
ssafetystitches,16–17,225satin,62scarfswags,288–291scissors,28
seamfinishes,110–119seamgauge,27seamripper,28seamroll,29seams,102–119
curved,104encased,105–108ending,21
homedécor,224–225forlooseweaves,51machine-stitching,103serged,115–119starting,21
stretch,109typesof,115–119
seamtape,33seatcovers,253–263self-boundseams,105self-lined,273
selvagefinish,110,273sequinedfabrics,62sergedseams,115–119sergers,14–25basicof,20–23
careandmaintenance,15functionsandparts,14–15tensionadjustments,18–19typesof,16–17
sergerthread,15,32
sewingdirections,41sewing-machineneedles,24sewingmachines.Seealsosergers
accessories,12–13choosing,9stitchadjustments,10–11
threading,10shades,Roman,296–303shank,12shankbuttons,34sharps,25
shears,28sheerfabrics,46,47,58–61shoulderpads,194–195shoulders,tailoringjacket,194–195showercurtains,336–337silkpins,25
silkyfabrics,58–61skirts,lining,200–201slantedpockets,150,156–157sleeveboard,29sleeves,126–129,188
slipcovers,252–271slits,stitching,22snaps,34,171–172snaptape,34snips,81,83
specialpurposefoot,13stabilizedseams,116,119stackingspace,273
stitchedandpinkseams,110stitchesremoving,23
typesof,16–17stitchlengthregulator,10stitchtension,10–11,18–19straightpins,25straightstitches,11
straight-stitchplate,12stretchseams,109stripes,46,48,76–78suede,69supplies,32–35.Seealsoequipmentswags,288–291swimsuits,212–217
syntheticfur,suede,andleather,69
ttabcurtains,308–311tablecloths,338–343table-topironingboard,30
taffeta,62tailoring,184–201tailor’schalk,26,81,83tailor’sham,29tapemeasure,27tapes,33
thread
serger,15,20–23typesof,32
threadclipper,28
toggles,34tools.Seeequipmenttracingpaper,26tracingwheels,26traverserods,277,280–281
tricotboundfinish,113trims,33T-square,27turnandstitchedfinishes,110,111twilltape,33twillweavefabrics,46
uundertreatment,273
vvalances,292–295velvet,49velveteen,49,51–52
wwaistadjustments,94–98waistbands,140–141waterfallcushion,257,259
weights,31welting,246–249weltpockets,150,158–161
windowhardware,276–281windowmeasurements,274–275windowtreatments,272–323wovenfabrics,73
yyardstick,27
zzigzagfinishes,110,111zigzagplateandfoot,12zigzagstitches,11,225zipperfoot,13
zippers,35,173–183,241–43
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ISBN-13:978-1-58923-434-5ISBN-10:1-58923-434-0
Digitaledition:978-1-61673377-3
Hardcoveredition:978-1-5892-3434-5
109876
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ofCreativePublishinginternational.--Updatedandrev.ed.p.cm.Includesindex.ISBN-13:978-1-58923-434-5ISBN-10:1-58923-434-01.Machinesewing.2.Dressmaking.3.Tailoring.4.Housefurnishings.I.CreativePublishingInternational.TT713.C632009646.2'044--dc222008031264
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