Transcript
Sydney’s easy summer spiritOnce again, the Sydney Carriageworks housed MercedesBenz Australian Fashion Week, and what a venue it is. My only complaint would be that it is harder to reach than the Overseas Terminal, which housed the event until 2012, but it is chic and sleek and has all the light and space that is needed to feature the collections. The week was launched by Carla Zampatti on Sunday, followed by a welcome ceremony in the MercedesBenz Star Lounge, studded by glitteratti and those who are trying hard to be. A hub for fashionistas, I immediately caught up with Phoebes Garland, who was wearing a most astonishing jacket designed by Cameo (a label owned by her stepdaughter). Joshua Heath was also there, trying to demonstrate to other male stylists how things are worn, as he has achieved the right balance of sleek, different but not clownish. These two are on the list of best dressed fashionistas in Sydney. But you can be thoroughly entertained by what some people wear as well. The creator of Zoolander may have a field day and entirely new ideas here. Good on the people who dare!
Viviana Pannell looks at the first major spring–summer collections, from Mercedes-Benz Australian Fashion Week in Sydney, with a forecast of comfortable, resort living and sporting styles
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Being fed and watered at the MercedesBenz Star Lounge was not at all something I was opposed to, and this meltingpot of talents and followers has been an exhilarating place to peoplewatch, chat and exchange ideas and, in general, have a fantastic time. Having watched various collections, I can definitely say that croptops, whether fitted or flared, boxy shapes and colour banding will be very much in next summer, along with short versions of 1950s flare skirts, new takes on sportswear made fashionable and easygoing resort wear. I spotted versions of harem trousers on various collections and gowns remain goddessstyle, with colour panelling a feature in various collections. Aurelio CostarellaAurelio Costarella is earning a formidable reputation internationally as he turns his Western Australianbased company into an international luxury brand. Driven by the design process, each thematic collection is an exploration that moves seamlessly from one season to the next.
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It was very fitting for Aurelio Costarella to open mbafw 2014. The designer is celebrating his 30th year in business, a true pioneer of Australian fashion and, most specially, wa fashion. Considered the wild, wild west, wa is more a place for cowboys than for creators of beauty, but Costarella broke new ground and put Perth on the map, not only for Australian fashion but for the world. However, when one meets the man be
hind the dreamy frocks, you find a disarmingly downtoearth person: fame has not spoiled Costarella and he remains true to himself. The collection, Solaire, opened with an impressive, very detailed bodysuit, followed by a succession of gowns of unbridled femininity. Costarella is keen on soft, feathery effects and you could see this resurfacing in some of this collection’s gowns, but he also added some very architectural,
Holly wood goddessstyle, blackandwhite gowns, a splash of fuchsia, orange and purple, as well as a more edgy capsule of citrus and blue garments that made me feel like soaring up in the sky, as they made me think of hanggliders, the sky, and the endless blue sea which I can perennially see here in Sydney.
Costarella’s mastery of the feminine form remains apparent in his prowess of tailoring extremely detailed corsets that depart from the norm and have interesting cuts added to their complexity. Never one to follow trends but set them, Aurelio continues producing pieces that stylish women can wear anytime, now or in twenty years. True works of art. Alex PerrySynonymous with style and elegance, Alex Perry is undoubtedly one of Australia’s most iconic, celebrated and enduring designers. The brand has a rich history that spans more than two decades. Perry named his collection Varsity, and truly captured a spirit of cheerleading fun, making interesting use of bands, contrast colour panels and insertions where, unexpectedly, this take on sportswear–activewear was delivered in sequinned and croclike laminated materials, rich textures, laces and other delicate fabrics that you would not normally see in a collection embracing a youthful, sporty spirit. But it worked. In the midst of his fresh new look, Perry delivered the rich, bodyhugging gowns we are all used to seeing from him. In vivid colour.
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My favourite was a black dress with asymmetric shoulder and exposed right leg. The shaped basques and flares on skirts gave the collection a flirtatious flavour. Sweet. KahloKahlo’s collections feature transseasonal elements with beautifully soft leathers, suede, merino wool and silks throughout. Kahlo’s spring–summer 2014–15 collection is reminiscent of teenage sportswear, with simple, clean
lines, incorporating metallic and holographic leather in rose gold and silver, coupled with a colour palette of mint, pale pink, blush and grey marle to invoke a mood of Italian disco and the French underground dance scene. Boxy, flared crop tops, tabs on sleeves, layering and general ease of wear were apparent. The piece I thought is a musthave is a pair of black trousers with exposed gold zippers running down the front of both legs.
ElleryAnother famous St Martin’s graduate, Perthborn Kym Ellery has achieved cult local status and international success since launching her label in 2007. Ellery’s effortless æsthetic was fashion’s newest asset. Strong silhouettes, daring combinations of textures and unique hardware detailing create its distinctly modern feel. Its collections present a seamless urban uniform. The designer’s muse is individualistic and de
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cidedly feminine. The summer ’15 collection was a mix of sculptural long gowns and easyfit garments exploring volume and flare, unusual sleeve lengths and the mix of plain and textured materials. The standout for me was a goddess gold top featuring pleated drapes paired with translucent organza trousers.
Strateas CarlucciThe Strateas Carlucci design methodology is unique, in that designers Peter Strateas and MarioLuca Carlucci use opposing forms and meld them into a neoindustrial structural hybrid. This is the result of taking geometric shapes and sculpting them through an origami approach of folds, cuts and twists to organic forms, which the designers coin as ‘Metronmorphosis’. Their summer
’15 collection, Fracture, clearly delivered their vision, with every garment giving the impression of being handcrafted, unique and exclusive, featuring interesting fabrics, superb craftsmanship and sublime structures and fit. I am only not sure if this was meant to be a summer or a winter collection, as heavy layering and thick jumpers were a feature. The
tailoring was sublime and my favourite outfit was a skirt with a complicated, layered bustle, paired with a stunning leather jacket. Gail SorrondaGail Sorronda has managed to elicit international interest since the inception of her eponymous label in 2005 and has a signature of dark romance. Her summer 2015 collection departed a bit from what I was expecting, though I still saw a lot of volume, layering, frills and ethereal materials. Crisp and vivacious prints on casual wear, some really directional, voluminous garments featuring vertical pleats, houndstooth and banding of colours in a single garment were featured throughout the collection. My favourites remain more within her usual signature, a beautiful “artist’s” shirt in
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white organza and a gorgeous little black dress with delicate, textural detailing. Phoenix KeatingPhoenix Keating has captured the imagination of international press and even of Lady Gaga’s stylists (during her impromptu performances in Sydney in 2011) with his undeniably idiosyncratic and daring styles. One thing I can say of Keating is that he cares about expressing himself rather than following the flock. The name of his spring–summer 2014–15 collection, presented on the runway on Monday, La Diosa de Oro (the golden goddess), was the nickname for the first female bullfighter, Conchita Citron. The collection draws its inspiration from a matador’s traje de luces. While keeping the Phoenix Keating æsthetic, La Diosa de Oro explores a Spanish flavour to garments whilst using his signature 1950s silhouette, which Phoenix explained came from leafing through old Vogue magazines from that era. It truly was a feast of colour, unusual fabric choices and even led lighting. By JohnnyJohnny Schembri is, deservedly, an award winning designer. The By Johnny spring–summer 2014–15 collection, entitled Spectrum, was one of the most anticipated of the week
and covered innovative design via fabrications, textures and techniques based on Schembri’s signature minimalist design æsthetic of structure, body contouring, geometric sculpturing and bold graphics. Spectrum explores the idea of light, shade and shape—utilizing the fine female form to highlight new fitting cuts. The colour combinations were unusual but worked well. I just loved a dress with a fitted white top with cut out on the midriff and a skirt featuring diagonal stripes in black, orange and white.
Michael Lo SordoI bumped into Michael Lo Sordo after his show at the MercedesBenz Star Lounge and asked him about his collection and the inspiration behind it. He told me that the collection was all about the woman. Softness, ease of wear, pieces that women can be proud of for many years to come.
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A combination of soft silks, snakeskin and merino, featuring gelati colours, the runway lineup gave you the impression of being at a sixstar resort, somewhere in the Ægean. His exquisite but relaxed tailoring came through all garments and there were some unusually shaped lapels that I loved. A shirt is a shirt but not when Michael Lo Sordo creates one! Crisp and at the same time soft and flowing, the collection epitomized Lo Sordo’s expert draping and beautiful tailoring. He achieved his goal of creating a range that is effortlessly sexy. He mused that Australian fashion is growing strong and this event is
an outstanding opportunity to showcase his range internationally, and I look forward to the next stages of his progress. We Are HandsomeAccording to the label (an idea that is a lullaby to my heart): ‘every now and then something comes along that changes us. A shift that affects every corner of our world, our entire being. The moment that defines the rest of our lives. That special someone whose eyes speak volumes of truth. The place where the sun rises from the sea, and creates a canvas to make your mark. The heirloom that pro
vides protection and comfort from the perils of the world. We call this the catalyst. Seeking out truth and beauty, the change we search for may come from within, but always is profound. A single moment in time is all that’s needed to realize what needs to change, and how to take that next step. Through intuition and hard work we all seek our catalyst —that which puts on a new path, the journey to our destiny.’ Jeremy and Katinka Somers’s Catalyst collection was presented at a very original, outdoors location, the Sydney Reservoir, in Paddington. Those who took the bus to watch the show were rewarded with a playful collection of swimwear and resortwear, featuring animal prints, literally, prints of animals: zebra, tiger, snake. Delightful, very Sydney, very fresh. Even the yellow Burmese python that made an appearance, draped on a model, seemed to think so. CameoCameo has an impressive following around the world and is stocked in a multitude of outlets, nationally and internationally. Its main trait is being youthful, directional and attainable, a clever move in the current fashion climate. The collection showcasing at mbfwa is titled Optics and is inspired by the refraction of light, This concept is explored with the use of prisms, shapes, holographic prints and neon colours. It featured a juxtaposition of relaxed resortwear in fluid materials, more tailored and classic frocks featuring peplums, drop shoulders and a succession of really interestingly cut skirts with insertions in contrasting, printed materials, with layering of sheer over
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print. My favourite piece in this collection was a little white dress, made of lace. Toni MaticevskiSince the launch of Toni Maticevski in 1999, drive and vision has seen this talented designer gracefully continue to achieve and evolve the Maticevski brand, which in reward has earned him the role of one of the most successful and talented Australian designers. Since his fashion week début in 2002, Maticevski has gone on to present his collections in Paris, London and New York. Maticevski is all about architecture, craftsmanship and the feminine form. Exquisite tailoring and layering speak volumes of his
prowess and ability to concoct a delightful collection of shapes harmoniously in a single garment. Always complicated to achieve, never heavy to behold. Just sheer beauty. The runway collection featured his signature architectural flounces, the mix of sheer and solid fabrics and voluminous skirts reminiscent of Dior skirts of the 1950s, paired with fitted bodices. My favourite was a black dress that had an unusual, asymmetric cut around the neckline. White, black and blackandwhite print predominated but there was a splash of colour as well. A stunningly styled show, the music put you in the mood for the romance that followed. In love.
Unif.mFounded by a small class of Sydney creatives, Uniform Studios Sydney launched with the simple mission of reinventing everyday wear. Unif.m garments are developed to integrate seamlessly into an existing wardrobe and create a strong foundation. Defined by its craftsmanship, Unif.m fuses materials and techniques traditionally used for industrygrade uniforms with leather, silk and jersey, to create pieces that have a sense of refined ease and subtle luxury. Simplicty was the feature of this collection, but being a chatterbox to anyone, I have heard (from a little bird) that they are firmly in the eye of an American talent scout, so the limit for this consortium may well be the sky! Romance Was BornRomance Was Born have an amazing capacity for turning out exquisitely crafted clothes that go beyond trends and are recognizable worldwide. They’ve embarked upon collaborations with Australia’s finest artists and retailers, including Archibald prizewinning artist Del Kathryn Barton, and clothing giant Sportsgirl. This allows the designers, Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett, creative licence to explore their own artisan capabilities, with breathtaking results. Their creations are highly idiosyncratic and have a signature so strong that you cannot fail but know it was produced by them. This year, their spring–summer 2014–15 collection was presented in an installation form, with mannequins suspended by hooks and chains from above. For whatever reason, many of the garments and the collection as
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a whole reminded me of Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. Very colourful and original, it is hard to pick a single piece from the collection as a favourite. The InnovatorsThe Innovators’ show featured the work of several recent graduates from the Ultimo tafe school of fashion, carefully selected as promising future stars. I am always delighted to see fashion, which is, like the name indicates, truly innovative and unrestrained by commercial reality. However, most of the garments were highly wearable. Irish girl Claire Nolan opened the show with a very vibrant collection including bold use of colour, cuts exposing skin and prints. These kids show promise, as they already demonstrate prowess in material manipulation, with expert draping and pleating seen in several of the collections, as well as innovative ideas: some of the dresses were held by translucent rods joining shoulders and other parts of the garment. Ae’lkemiThis was an ethereal show that opened with blood red outfits and followed with black and white. Lacy, translucent gowns sashayed down the runway, with one of my favourites being a silver white gown with delicate vertical frills on the hip area, resembling feathers, and a white poncho worn as a dress with exquisite detailing on the back. Seethrough lace
gowns and sets were present, and beautiful. My only comment would be that totally seethrough garments on nude bodies are not really likely to be worn by many women. I may have liked them even more if nude lining had been applied to the gowns in some strategic areas. By and large, glamorous, delicate, feminine. AjeWhenever I am going to see an Aje show, I expect an unforgettable experience and they never fail to deliver and exceed expectations. Aje’s show was An Ode to Osa
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Attending Aurelio Costarella’s show during mbafw was one of the highlights of my fashion year. I was given the outstanding opportunity to meet Costarella and brand manager Paul O’Connor in person, at their suite in Surry Hills, where I was able to appreciate the collection and touch the garments: for us creatives, touch is such an important tool, especially for those who relish the texture and richness and want to show many the layers to their work. Costarella’s style speaks to my soul as he has a love for creating rich, timeless pieces with a contemporary edge and the collections always tell a memorable story. If I had loved what I saw coming out on the catwalk, touching and seeing the garments firsthand brought my appreciation to a completely new dimension. The amazing quality of the workmanship and exquisite detail applied to each garment was aweinspiring. It was superbly welltailored and crafted, with a mastery in cut and manufacture that is rarely seen nowadays. To meet the mastermind of these memorable pieces in person was humbling, for Costarella has no airs and graces and is absolutely downtoearth. I do not honestly think that any of Costarella’s pieces would be out of place alongside pieces created for famous operas and ballets by the late Gianni Versace, or any other of the European greats. Driven by the design process, each thematic collection is an exploration, a journey that moves seamlessly from one season to the next. A focus on textile development, detailed cutting and quality craftsmanship set the Aurelio Costarella brand apart. With a distinctive handwriting that ranges from trademark delicate silk chiffon gowns to intricate handcrafted beadwork, embroidery and sharp tailoring, the Aurelio Costarella brand is a
luxurious offering. Costarella explained that each colour way used in any of his collections is exclusive to his label and silks and other materials are especially dyed from the yarn for him by specialist fabric suppliers.
I asked him how did he discover his passion for fashion and he explained that
his family was one of Italian immigrants during the ’50s, and one of the items that his grandmother had brought from home was an old pedalpowered Singer machine, an item of much fun and experimentation over the years. Though Costarella actually trained as an architect, fashion had a greater pull in the end and he launched the eponymous label at Australian Fashion Week in 2000, with his first piece having been, years before that, a white halter created for one of his friends and sewn on the ancestral Singer. Since then, the Aurelio Costarella brand has built a strong following with a loyal celebrity clientèle, worn and admired by international stars including Rihanna, Dita von Teese, Naya Rivera, Nicole Scherzinger, Keri Hilson, Melissa George, Dannii Minogue and Tina Arena. Costarella has also been the recipient of prestigious international awards and has had a presence at New York Fashion Week and G’Day usa since 2006, and his work was showcased at Shanghai World Expo in 2010. For stockists both in Australia and New Zea
land and to view Aurelio’s fabulous collections, visit www.aureliocos tarella.com. •
Speaking to the soulViviana Pannell speaks to one of her favourites from Australian Fashion Week, Aurelio Cos-tarella
Johnson, the first woman explorer of Africa—an installation in the Theatre, with a central stage featuring a large safari tent and models languidly standing and sitting around. There were many highly wearable garments and a standout black lace trouser and blouse set that I want to own right now. Glamorous and sexy but with the right balance of coverage to
make it highly wearable. A green leather jacket also stood out—beautifully cut and tailored. The designers were greeting guests at the back of the tent and
they were their usual selves, relaxed, happy, warm, downtoearth. The atmosphere was
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Sydney’s easy summer spiritcontinued from p. 52
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Viviana Pannell is Sydney correspondent for Lucire.
realizing how intricate the development process is, and learning that details are crucial in the piece’s value. Diamond cutters and lapidaries (specialists focused on cutting all stones other than diamonds) grade a piece according to the four Cs: carat, clarity (in terms of investigating the presence of inclusions), colour and cut. Stones are categorized under precious (diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald), fine (clear and transparent pieces) and ornamental (more opaque stones). L’École Van Cleef & Arpels encourages people to learn that there is more to the brand’s jewellery pieces than just their physical appeal; a specific protocol is followed in order to achieve their enviable appearance. The course reveals a mixture of invigorating discussions and handson practice, with the overall experience shedding a light on just how the company arrives at such flawless pieces. •
Uncovering the genesiscontinued from p. 33
evocative of exact ly the story they were trying to tell with this beautiful collection. Viva Aje! And may their dreamy creativity bring us endless collections to love and cherish. The buzzBeing one of the lucky ones able to enjoy the MercedesBenz Star Lounge, I had the outstanding opportunity to mingle with stylists, designers, celebrities and media. It was refreshing to hear stories from the designers themselves and also meet some of the people in the background who make their collections possible. Phoe nix Keating is a warm and unassuming guy who welcomes you to talk and puts you at ease immediately. I had a nice conversation with him and also bumped into celebrity stylists Joshua Heath and Josh Finn (exAustralia’s Next Top Model). Always great to exchange impressions with them: Heath was, of course, epitomizing the manner in which a trendy male ought to dress, without crossing the Zoolander line of spoof fashion, and Finn was sweetly dressed with a great printed poncho by Camilla, which only he, as a guy, can do justice to. I was pleased to meet the leather man of fashion here, Juan Valdes, of Chilean decent and leather tailor to celebrities, highend designers and a collaborator even to the latest Star Wars movies. We joked that South Americans are like God: they are everywhere! An afterparty wrapped the week at Hu
go’s Lounge in Kings Cross, well attended by models and stylists, and featured rivers of Mumm, espresso Martinis and anything that the heart could desire in terms of drink. A moment to let your hair down after a gruelling but delightful four days of shows. •
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