Ladakh - so close to heaven

Ladakh– so close to

heaven

!!!!!!!!

JACK WOLFSKIN

SPRING/SUMMER 2010

ISSUE # 01/1

Trekking between the H

imalayas and Karakorum

In terms of age, the Himalayas are just a spring chicken but, interms of height, a giant among the high mountain ranges ofthis world. Ladakh lies in the northernmost corner of India,framed by the mighty peaks of the Himalayas and of the Kara-korum. A landscape of extremes and still largely unknown. InAugust 2009 we fulfilled our dream: a ten-day trekking tour inLittle Tibet, as Ladakh is also called.

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It's hot, it's loud, it's colourful and in thecrowded streets gorgeous scents minglewith a horrible stench. As soon as we exitDelhi Airport, we are quite overwhelmedby the many impressions that assail us.

We find a bit of peace and quiet at the Jama Mashid, the"world-reflecting mosque". It is the biggest mosque in Indiawith room for more than 20,000 people in the courtyard.

We are not sorry to leave Delhi and by the next day we are off on our flight to Leh inLadakh. Spellbound, we look down on the majestic rolling sea of the Himalayas. Tenof the 14 highest peaks on earth are to be found here. Now we can hardly wait to finallyget to the mountain world of Ladakh. { }

The place literally takes our breath away. Even the smallest effort leaves us gasping for breath here. Leh isone of the highest situated towns on earth and it takes a few days till we are acclimatised. But the views arealso breathtaking. The sky over Leh is like a deep azure blue carpet. Clear mountain air. We use the day torelax, to get accustomed to the altitude. {

After the c city and ex items on o

chaos in Delhi we enjoy the "calm" in Ladakh's capital xplore the colourful markets. Here we buy the remaining our provisions list for our forthcoming trekking tour. }

We are greeted with a hearty "julee" by Lama Tsewang, a monk from the LingshedMonastery. We are immediately reassured to have a good travel guide by our sideand learn the most important word in Ladakh: julee – hello, good morning, goodevening, thank you, goodbye. What more do we need to know!

A short walk takes us to the Shanti Stupa, a Japanese monastery perched highabove Leh. A view full of contrasts: bright prayer flags, blue sky, the desert-likelunar landscape, snow-capped mountains and the snaking Indus river borderedby green vegetation.

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Muted light. Voices in the air come and go like the breaking waves on a beach. We hit theroad while it is still dark to take part in the morning meditation at Thikse Monastery. Adeep peace envelops us and we sit for a long time contemplating the mountains in theearly morning light.

Life in Ladakh is deeply rootedin Buddhism and you meet it atevery turn: bright, flutteringflags carry prayers up to thegods and countless stone tabletswith prayers engraved on themlie on top of the walls. We oftenhear the murmuring of "Ommani padme hum", the oldestand constantly recited mantraof Tibetan Buddhism. }

Stirred not shaken – travelling over rut-ted roads we reach Alchi. Our last over-night stay with a roof over our headbefore we set off on our trekking tour.

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With three pack horses and a cook our group is nowcomplete. Our rucksacks are packed, water and foodstowed away on our four-legged companions. Andwe're off. We slowly climb up through a mighty ra-vine. Narrow paths have been hewn out of the steeprocky cliffs.

There aren't many paths in this remote mountainousworld. For the local inhabitants, the passes and ravinesare their link to the outside world. So it's not surprisingthat we meet a friend of Tsewang. A welcome excuse fora short break.

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}Halfway to Photoskar we put up our tents inthe middle of a magnificent landscape. Thestillness is palpable and the sky so close.

We have broken through the 4000 m barrier. The next day we reach themountain village of Photoskar situated over 4200 m above sea level.It's almost impossible to imagine how the locals manage to survive inthe barren landscape. {

Unusual sounds come to our ears. We come across shepherds with yaks, also known as grunting ox.For the people of the Central Asian Highlands the yak is practically an all-singing, all-dancing ani-mal. It certainly represents the basis for survival for most people: milk, meat, leather, hair and wool– everything is used. Its dung is used for fuel and the animal is still used both for carrying loads andfor riding.

Hospitality in Photoskar is amazing. Goor goor (butter tea) is offered. The Ladakhi's favourite drink pre-sents a real challenge to our palate: tea with yak butter, salt and sometimes soda titillates our taste buds.Tsewang helps us with the language but laughter is the best way to communicate.{

We hang up our prayer flags. Step by step, we toil to the top of the Sisir-La pass at4730 m. It represents in the truest sense our pinnacle. Ahead of us is the strenuousdescent to Hunupatta. Then it is time for farewells. "Julee", we'll be back.

However much you perspire, the TREKKING Talways feels virtually dry next to the skin, ra-pidly wicking sweat away to the outside surface.So it's ideal as the base layer in the layeringsystem.

The GREAT ESCAPE JACKET WOMEN is lovelyand light, also waterproof. It is slightly morefitted than other trekking jackets for women.

The HAVANNA ZIP OFF PANTS combine longtrousers and shorts in one. That saves on kit.They are made of robust FUNCTION 65 withits cotton-like feel, and have five pockets.

The fabric for the TALKEETNA WOMENis fluffy and warm: the 150 fleece trapsmore warming air through the highloftstructure.

Ladakh– so close to

heaven

Here is part of our kit lis

t:

Great escape jacket Women

Talkeetna Women

Havanna zip off pantsTrekking T

The DENALI is still comfortable to carry even when fully packed.All straps are comfortably padded and the sensible compartmentsbring order to packing.

The ALL TERRAIN JACKET MEN is like a suit ofarmour: waterproof, extremely hardwearing,robust, yet very breathable. Venting zips andeight pockets are just some of the features. Afleece jacket, e.g. the MIDNIGHT MOON MEN,can be zipped in using the system zip.

With its medium insulation, the MIDNIGHT MOONMEN jacket made of 150 grade fleece is especiallypleasant on summer trips. The system zip allowsseamless docking with the ALL TERRAIN JACKETMEN, for example.

All terrain Men

Midnight moon Men

Denali

end