Hair Shampoo

Hair Shampoo

Laundry Detergent

“Cleaning Your Hair vs Cleaning Your Clothes”Jeff Easley – Sr. Global Performance Improvement Specialist

Stepan CompanyMidwest SCC Meeting

March 11, 2014

Objectives…

• Cleaning technology• Ingredient types• Ingredient functions• Formulations• Performance testing• Regulatory environment

Compare and Contrast:

Cleaning Technology

Cleaning Hair vs Cleaning Fabric

• Different substrates • Many more fabric types than hair types• Soils to be removed differ• Surfactant interfacial phenomena similar• Differences in washing processes

In General…

Detersive SystemsSystem Soil Mechanical

ActionDetergent

Household Laundry

Mixed & Variable

Moderate Unbuilt or Built Surfactant

Hair Shampoo

Oily Vigorous• Rubbing in• Rinse cycle

Organic Surfactant

Progression of Laundry Detergent Forms

Bars Powders Liquids

Heavy Duty Powders(HDP)

Heavy Duty Liquids(HDL)

Also known as:

Product Trends

• Increasing Concentration– 2X, 4X and greater

• Cold Water Cleaning

• Eco-friendly Products– Using “Green” or natural based Ingredients

• Recyclable Packaging

• High Efficiency– Low foaming variants

Comparison of ClaimsHair Shampoo

• Rapid-Drying• Fragrance Free• Dermotologist Recommended• Volumizing• Clarifying• Hypoallergenic• pH Balanced• No Animal Testing• Mild• Moisturizing• Free From…

Laundry Detergent• Botanical/Herbal• Kosher• No Additives/Preservatives• Fragrance Free• Hypoallergenic• Economy• Convenient Packaging• All Natural Product• Ease of Use• pH Neutral• Dermatologically Tested

Interesting Laundry Fact…

Ingredient Types

Ingredient Comparison….Hair Shampoo Laundry Detergent

• Surfactants• Water• pH adjusters• Fragrance• Dye• Preservative• Vitamins• Protein derivatives• Inorganic salts• Humectants• Emollients• Silicones• Thickening agents• Chelants/Sequestrants• Suncreen agents

• Surfactants• Builders• Buffering Agents• Enzymes• Optical Brightener• Polymers• Hydrotropes• Enzyme Stabilizer• Preservative • Colorant• Fragrance• Softening Agent• Bleach• Anti-redepostion

Agent• Filler• Water

Key

Typical Physical PropertiespH Viscosity % Actives

Hair Shampoo Slightly acidic(5.5 – 6.5)

3,500– 7,000 cps at 25C

10-12%(mid-tier)

Household Laundry Detergent(Liquid)

Alkaline(8.0-10.5)

300 – 700 cps at 25C

5-30%

(bargain to premium)

Anionic &NonionicSurfactants

AnionicSurfactant

NonionicSurfactant, Solvents

EnzymesSurfactants, Bleaching Agents

Soils Types and Ingredients to Address Them

Water-soluble Particulate Fats/oils Proteins/ Oxidizablecarbohydrates

Inorganic salts Metal oxides Vegetable oil Blood FruitsSugar Clays Animal fat Egg VegetablesUrea Humus Human sebum Milk WinePerspiration Carbon Mineral oil Grass Coffee

Waxes Starches Tea

Surfactant ComparisonHair Shampoo

• Sulfonates– Alpha Olefin Sulfonate

• Sulfates– Alkyl ether sulfates– Alkyl sulfates

• Alkanolamides• Amphoterics• Methyl Esters• Sulfoacetates• Sulfosuccinates

Laundry Detergent• Sulfonates

– Acids– Neutralized forms

• Sulfates– Alkyl ether sulfates– Alkyl sulfates

• Alkoxylates• Alkanolamides• Methyl esters• Hydrotropes

Common Primary Anionic Surfactant

• Linear Alkylbenzene Sulfonic Acid (LABSA)

– Good foamer – Good detergency – Neutralization necessary – Best carbon chain C11-12 linear– Corrosive in acidic state

Common Primary Anionic Surfactant

• Alkyl Ether Sulfates (AES)

– Foam enhancer – Good hard water tolerance– Carbon chain C12-14 with 2-3 moles EO Preferred– Due to gel phase formation, add other ingredients first– Stable at 4<pH<10

C12-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOSO3- Na+ n = 2 or

3

Other Primary Anionic Surfactant

• Alpha Olefin Sulfonate

– Good foaming– Good detergency– Stable over a broad pH range– Synergism with LAS

CH3(CH2)m CH (CH2)nSO3

- Na+ +

CH3(CH2)m CH (CH2)nSO3

- Na+

Where m = 8 – 14; n = 1-3; and m + n = 9-15

OH

Common Primary Nonionic Surfactant

• Alcohol Ethoxylates

– Mid to high HLB preferred– Good grease cleaner– Low foam generation– Stable in alkaline solutions– Compatible with anionics/cationics

C12-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOH n = 7-9

Common Secondary Surfactant

• Amine Oxides (AO)

• Alcohol Ethoxylates (low HLB)

• Alkanolamides

• Soap (defoamer)

NOH

OH

O

C11-17

CH 3(CH 2)11

NCH 3

CH 3

O

CH 3(CH 2)11

NCH 3

CH 3

OHH

C11-15(O-CH2-CH2)nOH n = 2-4

O

C11-17 O- Na+

Ingredient Functions

Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents

Role of Surfactants

The Ideal Surfactant

Other Considerations

• Hydration of fabrics and soils• Solubilization of greases/oils• Suspension of hydrophobic soils• Generation of suds

Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents

Role of Surfactants

The Ideal Surfactant

Other Considerations

• Low CMC• Low Krafft temperature• High solubility in hard/cold water• Lowest air/water surface tension• Low oil interfacial tension• Fast kinetics

Surfactant Attributes for Laundry Detergents

Role of Surfactants

The Ideal Surfactant

Other Considerations• Low cost to performance ratio• Excellent environmental

profile• Excellent human safety profile

Surfactant Function in HDL Formulas

• Primary Surfactants Provide:– Good foaming– Good detergency (removing soils from clothes)– Emulsification and solubilization of soils or dirt

Surfactants Function in HDL Formulas

• Secondary Surfactants Provide:–Foam enhancement–Cleaning enhancement–High viscosity formulas–Solubilization of other ingredients

Functions of Some Commonly Used Laundry Additives

• Builders• Antiredeposition Agents• Dye transfer inhibitors• Soil release polymers• Optical brighteners• Enzymes• Control additives for pH, viscosity, foam• Preservatives, Perfume, Dye

Formulation Comparison

Primary Surfactants (5-40%) Hydrotropes (0-5%)

Secondary Surfactant (0.5-3%) Enzyme Stabilizer (0-5%)

Buffering Agents (1-8%) Preservative (0-0.05%)

Builders (1-7%) Colorant (0-0.1%)

Enzymes (0-1.5%) Fragrance (0-1%)

Optical Brightener (0.02-2%) Softening Agent (0-7%)

Polymers (0-1%)

Formulation IngredientsHDLs

Primary Surfactants (5-15%) Polymers (0-1%)

Builders (10-30%) Anti-caking Agent

Bleach (0-5%) Filler (30-60%)

Anti-redeposition Agent (0-1.5%) Colorant (0-0.1%)

Enzymes (0-1.5%) Fragrance (0-1%)

Optical Brightener (0.02-2%) Softening Agent (0-7%)

Formulation IngredientsHDPs

Premium Laundry Formula

INGREDIENTS % Wt. RANGE FUNCTIONALITY

DODECYL BENZENE SULFONIC ACID 10-15 Primary Anionic Surfactant

SODIUM ALKYL ETHER SULFATE 7-10 Primary Anionic Surfactant

LINEAR ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE 12-18 Primary Nonionic Surfactant

SODIUM XYLENE SULFONATE 2-4 Hydrotrope

HARDENED COCONUT FATTY ACID 0.5-2 Foam Modifier

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (50% solution) 3-5 Neutralizer

BORAX PENTAHYDRATE 0.5-3 Stabilizer

PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1-3 Stabilizer

CITRIC ACID (50% solution) 2-4 Builder

TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.25-1 pH Buffer

MONOETHANOLAMINE 0.25-1 pH Buffer

FLUORESCENT WHITENING AGENT 0.05-1.5 Brightener

PROTEASE 0.5-2 Enzyme

AMYLASE 0.2-1 Enzyme

DI WATER, FRAGRANCE, COLORANT AND PRESERVATIVE q.s..to 100 Additives

Economy Laundry Formula

INGREDIENTS % Wt. RANGE FUNCTIONALITY

DODECYL BENZENE SULFONIC ACID 3-7 Primary Anionic Surfactant

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 4-9 Primary Anionic Surfactant

LINEAR ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE 5-8 Primary Nonionic Surfactant

SODIUM CARBONATE (100% powder) 2-4 pH Buffer/Builder

SODIUM HYDROXIDE (50% solution) 0.5-2 Neutralizer

FLUORESCENT WHITENING AGENT 0.0-0.2 Brightener

DI WATER, FRAGRANCE, COLORANT AND PRESERVATIVE q.s.to 100 Additives

Performance Testing

Cleaning Performance ASTM Methods D 4265-98 (stains) and D 3050-07 (artificial soils)• Washing:

– HE (High Efficiency) and top loading machines– Temperature controlled wash and rinse– 6-lb ballast– Purchased standard stained/soiled fabrics with dust sebum, clay,

grass, red wine, cocoa, coffee, blueberry, blood/ink/milk, make-up among others

– Duplicate washes

• Data Analysis:– Hunter Spectrophotometer Software and LabScan

XE sensor

SRI = 100 - Lclean

( - L washed

) 2

+ (aclean

- a washed

) 2

+ (bclean

- b washed

)2

DSRI = SRIexperimental - SRIcontrol

Regulatory Environment

Some Regulatory Matters…Item At Issue… Hair

ShampooLaundry

Detergent

1,4-Dioxane Carcinogen Yes No

Diethanolamide Carcinogen Yes No

Alkyl Phenol Ethoxylates

Reproductive, Developmental effects

No Yes

Nitrosamine Carcinogen Yes No

Phosphates Eutrophication Yes Yes

Summary• Surfactants are the key to both laundry detergent and

hair shampoo formulations

• There are several similarities and differences between laundry detergent and hair shampoo formulations

• Personal Care formulators can formulate laundry detergents too with a little know how

• Never use a laundry detergent as a substitute for hair shampoo !!

References

Available Upon Request

Contact information:Jeff EasleySr. Global Performance Improvement SpecialistStepan CompanyDirect Dial: 847-501-2239Fax: 847-446-9359Email: jeasley@stepan.com