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Since the 40's nonwovens are
part of the fabric market, but it
has only been recently that the
volume in the garment and apparel
business has become somewhat sig-
nificant. Primarily, cost and the
strength of nonwovens, were at the
same time a barrier to its develop-
ment into the business of fashion.
Secondarily the technology of both
fiber and machinery limited its
growth. With recent developments,companies like Freudenberg and PGI
(Polymer Group Inc) have changed
the game establishing products like
Evolon® and Miratec® respectively.
Nonwoven interlinings
The generic term 'nonwoven
interlinings' defines materials based
on nonwovens that are incorporated
into articles of clothing during pro-
duction to satisfy various functions.
The processing methods used can be
divided into sewn and bonded inter-
linings (fusible interlinings). Sewninterlinings are incorporated between
the shell and the lining material dur-
ing the sewing process. Bonded inter-
linings are fused to the shell, lining or
another inlay material by a bonding
process (heat sealing process). The
ratio of sewn to bonded interlinings is
currently approximately 20:80.
History of nonwoven interlinings
The use of nonwovens as interlin-
ings goes back to the year 1940's.
While the first sewable nonwoven
interlinings were available in sheet
form in 1947, in 1948 production
began of yard goods, the form com-
monly used today. These were fibrous
nonwovens bonded by means of an
aqueous binder. Nonwoven interlin-
ings are therefore one of the oldest
successful applications of nonwovens.
Even by 1960, they were dominant
on the nonwovens market in
Germany, with a share of over 60%.
In the mid to late 1950s, the winning
streak of fusible nonwoven interlin-
ings began, which today, as we have
seen, have a share of around 80% of
the total market. The first fusible
products were nonwovens bonded
with binders until at the start of the
1960's, the first binder-free nonwo-
ven interlinings were developed.They were bonded with thermoplastic
fibers by full-width calendering and
had a stiff, rather brittle hand.
Spunlaid nonwovens, which appeared
in the mid-1960's, gained importance
in the interlinings sector as 'adhesive
nonwovens'. They were made from
spun melted filaments and served as
a processing aid for bonding textile
fabrics. At the start of the 1970 s, the
first binder-free nonwoven interlin-
ings came onto the market that was
bonded by the thermal bonding prin-
ciple. Unlike the previous flat calen-
dered products, they had a soft hand.
In 1973, the development of the spot
calender bonded nonwoven enabled
interlinings to break through to other
end-use sectors. With this technolo-
gy, it was possible to expand the pos-
sible variations in the construction of
nonwovens, giving nonwoven inter-
linings a previously impossible soft,
plump, textile hand. Spunlaced non-
wovens developed around the same
time had similar aims. These are con-
ventionally laid card webs that are
bonded without binders by means of
water jets. The first wet-laid nonwo-
vens for use in the interlinings sector
also go back to 1973. Here, the fibres
are deposited from an aqueous sus-
pension onto a screen fabric in a sim-ilar way to paper manufacture and
then bonded like a dry-laid nonwoven
using binders. In 1988 came the
breakthrough to warp-knitted inter-
linings produced by knitting a pillar
stitch construction into a nonwoven.
Here, a heat bonded nonwoven is
normally fed into a warp knitting
machine and stabilized in the longitu-
dinal direction. Practically the whole
range of possible and required non-
woven interlinings is now produced
using the two main technologies for
this purpose, full-width bonding using
binders and binder-free spot bonding.
Functions of nonwoven interlin-
ings
Every nonwoven interlining has a
range of functions to fulfill, related to
its end- use, that should satisfy both
the processor (garment manufactur-
er) and the purchaser of the garment
Technical Textile & Nonwoven ExcellenceOctober-December 2011 41
NONWOVENS
Nilesh I Yadav
Textile Excellencenilesh@textileexcellence.com
NONWOVENS FOR APPAREL
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(consumer). Due to the complexity of
the factors affecting the production
and use of garments, a universal
nonwoven interlining is inconceiv-
able. This means that it is necessary
for the manufacturer to establish therequired properties of the made-up
article by close communication with
the shell manufacturers and garment
manufacturers and by monitoring the
consumer market, and from this to
determine the specification of the
nonwoven interlining. By using the
resulting specification, a suitable
nonwoven interlining can be devel-
oped and constructed for almost any
end-use. In general, the functions of
a nonwoven interlining can be divid-
ed into three main groups:
Interlining fabric for shaping and
support
Shaping and support are the tra-
ditional tasks of an interlining fabric.
It forms the internal frame of gar-
ments (for example jackets and
coats) and helps to absorb and bear
the static and dynamic stresses to
which the garment is subjected in
use. The shape given to the clothing
for anatomical or fashion reasons
should be maintained permanentlyby the interlining without changing
the textile properties of the shell. A
nonwoven interlining (front fusing
interlining) of this type is primarily
used over a large area.
Nonwoven interlining for stabiliz-
ing &/or stiffening
The task of a nonwoven interlining
used for stabilizing is to reinforce or
stiffen certain parts of a garment in
the desired way. Moreover, these
areas, often the most visible on a
garment (for example collars & cuffs
on shirts and blouses), should look
good & should not lose their appear-
ance after the care cycle. In terms of
their application, these nonwoven
interlinings are primarily for use over
small areas and aid rationalization as
punched and narrow fabrics.
Nonwoven interlinings for pro-
viding bulk
So-called quilting nonwovens can
fulfill two different tasks in garments.The first, as a backing for quilting or
embroidery to create a decorative
look is determined by fashion. These
are normally used over a small area.
The second task of providing heat
insulation conforms to the rules of
clothing physiology. With an entrap-
ment of air of over 90%, these non-
wovens make ideal heat insulators
and stand out from other textile fab-
rics in this respect. In this case, the
filling material is used over a large or
the whole area. The boundaries
between the two tasks can be fluid.
Functional elements of nonwoven
interlinings
By using the basic elements of a
nonwoven interlining, that is the raw
materials (fibers, binders, finishes,
Technical Textile & Nonwoven ExcellenceOctober-December 2011 42
NONWOVENS
Fig.1. Shaping & Support with
Nonwoven Interlinings
Fig.2. Nonwoven to aid
Rationalization (Punched &
Narrow Fabrics)
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Technical Textile & Nonwoven ExcellenceOctober-December 2011 43
NONWOVENS
hot melt adhesives), by combining
them together and using the different
manufacturing possibilities, such as
web formation, finishing, application
and formulation of the hot melt adhe-
sive, it is possible to design the indi-
vidual properties and therefore to ful-
fill any function. These basic ele-
ments are therefore functional ele-
ments for the nonwoven interlining.
The relationship between the func-
tional elements and the properties
can be represented in a matrix.
The aim of such a matrix is: (See
table 1)
To supply data on which function-
al elements are relevant for aproperty
To provide the basis for specifica-
tions for stages carried out by
external manufacturers
To provide the stimulus for new or
improved technical equipment
Nonwovens for protective cloth-
ing
Protective and safety textiles of
the most diverse kinds are classed as
technical textiles with a high-tech
character. They have a growing mar-
ket importance. Protective clothing
occupies first place among technical
textiles in Europe. It is used to pro-
tect people and/or property. For pro-
tection at work, protective textiles
are used mainly in personal protec-
tive equipment (PPE) in the following.
Protective clothing (body protec-tion)
Protective gloves
Protective headgear
Protective footwear
Protection against falling
Protection against drowning
Textiles for protecting objects
serve purposes in property protection
such as fire-proofing and flame
proofing, protection against vandal-ism (protection against cutting),
moisture protection and protection
for equipment/structural elements,
clean-room textiles as well as protec-
tion against electrostatic and electro-
magnetic fields.
Heat protective clothing
The latest developments are non-
wovens made from temperature and
flame-resistant fibrous materials with
a high protective function against the
effects of heat and flames. They pro-
tect people and property against
thermal risks and are being used
increasingly in firefighters clothing,
welders protective clothing, com-
bined fire and chemical protective
clothing, on public transport, for
example planes, trains, in seating
and beds as well as in the public and
private sector. An increasing number
of inherently flame-resistant fibrous
materials are available for producing
such nonwovens. An important crite-
ria is the LOI value (Limited Oxygen
Index), see Table 2 on the character-ization of flammability. By blending
appropriate fibers, the different
requirements of the respective end-
use sector can be met. Chemical
methods are not suitable for reinforc-
ing nonwovens as they reduce the
LOI value. Such webs are usually
reinforced mechanically. The compa-
ny Freudenberg in Weinheim has
developed the Vilene Fire Blocker
product range, based on water-jet
reinforcement, consisting of an opti-
mal blend of melamine fibers, meta-
aramid (Nomex) and para-aramid
fibers (Twaron). They are heat and
flame-resistant, non-melting or drip-
ping, dimensionally stable, air per-
meable, soft, with a good drape as
well as abrasion resistant. They are
used for lightweight single or multi-
layer insulation linings and as sub-
strates for water-proof barriers
(SYMPATEX® & GORETEX®).
Table 1. Relationship matrix for Nonwoven interlinings
Fig.3. Nonwoven interlinings for providing bulk & heat insulation
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Nonwoven support materials for
footwear
Coated textile support materials -
summed up under the term 'artificial
leathers' - compete with genuine
leather in most diverse applications,
e.g. as shoe upper and upholstery
cover materials. The structures of
leather and traditional artificial
leather differ from each other funda-
mentally. While leather consists of a
collagen fibre tissue, the density of
which increases continuously towards
the grain side, artificial leathers are
layered materials composed of textile
supports and - mostly several - poly-
meric layers. Natural leather prevails
in application, in spite of multiple and
diverse efforts made in the last
decades in order to use plane materi-
als produced from high- grade syn-
thetic products, e.g. for footwear
manufacture (shoe upper materials
and linings). Its dominance does not
only result from promotion of "gen-
uine leather", but also from the ben-
eficial hygienic properties in wear,which are expressed by high values
of water vapour permeability and
water vapour absorption as well as by
the expansion behavior.
Latest Developments, from late
90's to today
PGI marketed its newly developed
Miratec® to be produced in Benson,
North Carolina. At that point the
process was described as: extraordi-
narily high-pressure water to manip-
ulate fibrous web bringing them
directly to a finished product with no
labor between, being the non-fraying
characteristic of Miratec fabric the
only visual difference from woven or
knitted fabrics. Expected end-uses
were: Home furnishings, automotive
fabrics, commercial uniforms, protec-
tive garments, children's wear,
durable medical products and window
treatments. Also in 1998 Xymid LLC,
Delaware, was formed and is made
up or growing business that had been
started by DuPont Co. The majority
ownership and management of the
company is by an individual who had
been responsible for the business
(and others) when with Dupont.Xymid® is based on proprietary tech-
nologies not found in traditional
wovens, knits or nonwovens. Some
of the products are based on process-
es and products that were developed
by DuPont's fibers, nonwovens and
composite groups. The versatility of
the techniques enables the inclusion
of many different fibers into one fab-
ric. Xymid wearforce™ fabrics com-
bine bulkable yarn such as Lycra®
with polyester for comfort and nylon
for durability. Wearforce "G" fabrics
are combined with high wear per-
formance laminate to provide good
griping surface and high wear resist-
ance. The composite fabrics are resin
impregnated for high abrasion resist-
ance and moldability. LANX fabric
systems produce chemical and bio-
logical protective fabrics and apparel
for military and emergency response
applications. Zyflex LLC Thermal
Sportgear® consists of a line of gar-
Technical Textile & Nonwoven ExcellenceOctober-December 2011 44
NONWOVENS
Table 2: LOI Value of Fibrous
Material
Fibre LOI Value
Meta Aramid 28-32
Para Aramid 29-32
Preox Fibre 56-58
Melamine fibre 32
Phenolic fibre 31-33
Modacrylic fibre 28-30
Viscose FR 28
PBI 40
Polyamide imide 32
Polyimide 38
Fig.4. Work from Lincoln ResearchCenter in New Zealand Footwearaccessories
Fig.5. Evolon Microfilament Technology
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