Transcript
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Batteries
Consumer Auto Electrical
Lecture 2
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Battery Types
Automotive
Designed to only power motors for ashort time (starter), then be recharged
Completely draining will damage themDeep Cycling
Designed for powering electric motorswhere they are completely drained thenrecharged
Stronger design
More expensive
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Automotive Battery Types
Lead Acid
Contains 2 types of plates with
electrolyte
Lower cost
Most
common
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Automotive Battery Types
Gell Cell
Has 2 types of lead
plates wound in a
spiral
Uses an electrolyte
in gell form
More expensive thanlead acid
More durable than
lead acid
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Automotive Battery Connections
Post Terminal
Used in older cars
Side Terminal
Used in newer cars
L Terminal
Used in heavy trucks and equipment
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Battery Ratings
Batteries are rated 4 ways:
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
CA (Cranking Amps)
RC (Reserve Capacity)
AH (Ampere Hour)
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CCA
Cold Cranking Amps
Indicates the ability of a battery to
deliver a specified current at a low
temperature.
It is determined by the amount of
current a fully charged battery can
supply for 30 seconds at 0F without
the voltage falling below 7.2 Volts
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CA
Cranking Amps
This is the same test as the CCA
rating, except it is at a higher
temperature (32F instead of 0F)
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RC
Reserve Capacity
It determines the time in minutes a
vehicle can be driven after the
charging system fails
The length of time a fully charged
battery (at 80F) can supply 25 Amps
before the voltage falls below 10.5
Volts
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AH
Ampere Hour
The amount of current a fully charged
battery (at 80F) can supply for 20
hours without having the voltage fall
below 10.5 Volts
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Determining Battery Ratings
Most battery ratings are printed or
stamped in the top of the battery
Most have 1 or 2 ratings
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Determining Positive and Negative
In a post and Lterminal type, thepositive (or +) is
larger than thenegative post (or -)
In the side terminal,it is marked POS or+ for positive andNEG or fornegative
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Corrosion
Corrosion causes many battery
failures
Corrosion causes a barrier
between the battery post and thecable
When there is a barrier, no
electrons can flow
Even though the battery is fully
charged, current will not flow
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Eliminating Corrosion
Wash the top of the battery with hot
water until all the corrosion is gone
Remove the negative cable, then
the positive cable
Clean the positive post with a
battery cleaning brush, then the
battery cable
The corrosion is gone when the post
and cable are shiny
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Eliminating Corrosion 2
Connect the positive cable to the
battery
Clean the negative post and cable
until clean
Reconnect the cable to the battery
Many anticorrosion products areavailable to prevent corrosion
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Checking the Battery
If there is an indicator window,
look at the color of it
Green indicates good, dark
green means it needs a
charge, and white or
yellow means it
needs to be replaced
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Checking the Battery 2
Check the outside of the battery for
cracks
Check the hold down for tightness
Check for
cracked or
broken cables
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Checking the Battery 3
Check the level and condition of
the electrolyte
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Checking Electrolyte
There should be a mixture of 36%
sulfuric acid and 64% water in the
battery
You can measure using a
hydrometer
It measures the
weight of the
mixture
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Hydrometer Measurements
Pure water reads 1.000 on a
hydrometer
A reading of 1.270 means the battery
is fully charged (36% water, 24%
H2SO4)
A dead battery will read 1.100 (less
than 15% H2SO4)
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Hydrometer Measurements 2
When you measure the specific gravity
(weight) of each cell, they must all be
within 50% of each other
1.08
1.1
1.12
1.14
1.16
1.18
1.2
1.22
1.24
1.26
1.28
Level
Cell 1
Cell 2
Cell 3
Cell 4
Cell 5
Cell 6
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Voltage Tests Open Circuit
Turn on the headlights for 2 minutes
Turn off the headlights and connect a
voltmeter to the battery, red lead to positive,
black to negativeIf the battery is good, it will read above 12.2
volts
If below that, chargethe battery
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Load Test Connections
Make sure the battery is fully charged
Connect the red lead or the VAT-40 to
the positive terminal
Connect the black lead to the negativeterminal
Clamp the green clamp over the black
lead
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VAT-40 Connections
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Load Testing
Turn the Load Increase control untilthe ammeter reads 3 times the amp-hour (AH) rating or one-half the cold-
cranking ampere (CCA) ratingHold that reading for 15 seconds
Read voltmeter
A good battery will read at or above9.6 volts
Battery should be at 70F
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Case Drain Tests
Uses a voltmeter with the black lead
hooked to the negative
Use the red lead to touch the case in
the middle of the battery
It should read less than 0.5 volts
A larger reading indicates you should
clean the top of the battery with hot
water and detergent
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Parasitic Drain Test
Remove the negative cable
Hook a test light between the
negative post and the cable
If the light glows, there is a problem in
the electrical system
Look for lights on inside the truck or
trailer or the regulator is bad
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Charging the Battery - Precautions
Leave the vent caps in place
Charge in well ventilated areas
Keep sparks and flames away from acharging battery
Disconnect the ground wire to
recharge a battery
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Charging the Battery
Check electrolyte levels, fill as
needed
Disconnect the ground lead
Connect the red lead to positive, the
black to negative
Turn on the charger
Make sure it is set to the battery
voltage
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Disconnecting the Battery Charger
Turn off the charger
Disconnect the charger leads
Reconnect the ground wire
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Jumping a Battery
Make sure the vehicles are not
touching each other
Make sure when connecting the leads
they are clear of any rotating parts
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Jumping a Battery 12 Volts
Connect the red leads to both positive
posts
Connect one end of the black lead to
the negative terminal, the other to the
cars ground
After the car starts, disconnect the
black lead from the ground, then therest of them
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Jumping a Car - Illustration
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That Concludes Electrical Lecture 2
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