miscellanymodels.files.wordpress.com  · Web view2018-12-09 · Lineside 1 - MacKenzie & Holland – Small Brackets & Components; and Lineside 2 - MacKenzie & Holland – Medium

Miscellany Models – Instructions for Lineside 3, 4 & 5; Arms/components, finials & lamps

MISCELLANY MODELS

Lineside 1 - MacKenzie & Holland – Small Brackets & Components; and

Lineside 2 - MacKenzie & Holland – Medium & Large Brackets & Components

Prototype

MacKenzie & Holland from Worcester provided signal components to a number of railway companies including the Highland, Great Eastern, Great Northern, North Eastern, Great Central, North Staffordshire, Furness, Taff Vale, Barry, Rhymney, Cambrian, Brecon & Merthyr Railways in the British Mainland. In addition they were used by the Northern Counties Committee in Northern Ireland, a number of railways in India, Australia and throughout New Zealand.

Whilst there were variants between the different companies – the Great Northern used somersault signals for example – there was a lot of commonality. This kit is primarily aimed at the signals used by the Highland Railway so if you are using them for a different company, you need to check that they used signals in the same manner but there will be a lot of cross over of components.

Signals are far from standard and there are a lot of different variants to these; with different numbers of dolls, locations of the balance levers, arrangements of ladders, operating cranks and the like. Therefore, to make your preferred signal it does pay to have photographs of what you have in mind. There are a number of good photographs in the following books Highland Miscellany, HR Albums 1 & 2 and the Livery Registry. If you can get it, the Model Engineer from April 1942 there is a good article on HR signals. In addition to this, the following are photographs that can be found on the Am Baile website:

3 doll signal - http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=55243&zoom=2

Balance lever - http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=55255&zoom=2

Forres single side bracket - http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=55252&zoom=2

Rear of signals at Boat - http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=48545&zoom=2

Pair of signals at Burghead http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=48587&zoom=2

Inverness 2 doll - http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=55247&zoom=2

In my research, I have determined (or suspect) the following general principals apply to Highland signals:

· Many highland Signals were quite tall; especially bracket signals.

· The windlass mechanism was not used on bracket signals and it was only used on occasions with single post signals. All of the photographs that I have seen show both a ladder and the windlass gear used, but it is possible that on some occasions the ladder was omitted.

· Typically, the Highland used signals with brackets that were equally balanced, except where the very small brackets were used. However, there were a few examples where this rule was not used (see http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=55252&zoom=2) and a doll was provided only to one side. Asymmetrical miniature brackets for shunt arms were, however, quite common.

· The use of lattice posts was relatively rare on stations where M&H fittings were used; except replacement signals late in the Highland’s existence.

· A whole variety of means of transferring the operation of the signal action out to the bracket signals was used; cam arms, rocking levers, L levers and wires running straight to the arm.

· A variety of means of forming the landings were used; timbers running laterally, very wide (12”+) transverse timbers, much thinner (4-6”) transverse timbers and thinner timbers with a final wide one at either end.

· The balance weights could be either at the base of the post or quite well up. Balance weights at a low level were rarely or never found on platform mounted signals. Balance weights could be parallel with the track or perpendicular to it. I think this will have had to do with the run of the signal wires back to the cabin, but I have not got to grips with this!

· On a few occasions, signals were mounted next to each other on separate posts, rather than on brackets – possibly the second signal was an addition?

· The general principal for post sizes was as follows:

· Single post signals – 6” at the top and then tapering out 3/16th of an inch for each foot of height

· Dolls – 7” at top and tapering as before

· Main post on bracket signals – 10” at the top and then tapering as before

· In either case, the pivot of the arm would be 1’6” from the top of the post and if there was a second arm this would be 6’0” below this.

· The ladder tended to be mounted on the rear, behind the blinder but on occasions they came off on the side (as drawing below).

· Sometimes there was a small landing at the head of the ladder, sometimes not. Sometimes there was a safety hoop (see smaller signal in the Dingwall picture below) and sometimes not. If there was a second arm on the post, the lower arm always had a landing.

· Relatively low dolls were typically accessed by steps, but higher dolls had ladders running to their sides (see Dingwall picture below).

Drawing not to scale and this shows GER practise, which is slightly different to the HR’s. The HR typically had higher dolls (see Dingwall picture below) and thus ladders to access them. The use of cams was common on the HR and longitudinal landing timbers occasional. The HR always seemed to access doll signals from the rear (as does this, the elevation is a little unclear).

On the HR the height of the dolls was varied and denoted the relative importance of the line that the signal served; so in the Dingwall picture below, the centre doll here will have been the main line.

North end of Dingwall, with a three doll bracket signal and independent shunt signal. Note the independent signal has a safety hoop, no landing and no windlass. The bracket signal has ladders to the near and centre dolls (behind to the front doll and to the side on the middle doll) but steps to the rear and it has cam arms transferring the action to the outer dolls. Both have balance weights parallel with the track. The landing is made up of small transverse timbers and there are a pair of restraining bars for the ladder back to the main post. Signal mounted to the left of the running line – this was the preferred but by no means universal standard on the Highland.

Further north line starting signals at Inverness. As these did not need to be viewed at distance, they are relatively low in height. Hence they have steps to the dolls. Note also the balance levers mounted at high level (to stop possible injury of the public). Cam arms again used to transmit movement to the dolls.

Note that the arm colour not taken onto the pivot plate (in contrast to the picture in the instructions for Lineside 3) but this is a much later picture (probably 1940s)

Black & White Photographs with thanks to the Highland Railway Society.

M&H brackets in use in New Zealand. Very similar but not exactly the same as Highland Railway/UK practise.

Unusual asymmetric bracket signal at Forres (left) and a more common symmetrical three doll bracket signal at The Mound (right)

Livery

Item

Highland era

LMS era/BR era

Post

White with the exception of the bottom 3 feet (although this seemed to be a flexible dimension) which was red oxide except where on a platform where it would be umber

White with the exception of the bottom 3 feet (although this seemed to be a flexible dimension) which was black

Finial

White with the exception of the base which was umber

White

Ladder

Black although the final 3 feet may have been umber

Black

Balance levers, brackets forming steps, handrails to landings, lamps & associated brackets

Black

As HR era

Winder windlass

Reportedly red oxide, or black

Black

Spectacle plates and blinders

White generally, some were black (possibly later in the HR era)

Black

Brackets

White

As HR era

Landings/step treads

Creosoted timber (so darkish grey)

As HR era

Cranks, spindles, cams and wires

Varied, often white but some black

Varied but more often black

Home arm

Red with white stripe 4” wide 9” in from end (dimensions seem flexible). White with black stripe to rear.

As HR era but stripe probably wider

Distant arm

Red with white fishtail shape 4” wide and 9” from end (may have been yellow near the end of HR era). White with black fishtail to rear.

As HR era but yellow in lieu of red and stripe probably wider.

Shunt arm

Skeleton section red possibly with white stripe at the intersection. “S” in white. White to the rear with black “S”.

As HR era

Components – Lineside 1 – Large & Medium Brackets, landings and steps

ALarge Bracket (2 no)

BLarge Bracket Stiffener Plates (2 no)

CMedium Bracket (2 no)

DMedium Bracket Stiffener Plates (2 no)

ELanding Brackets (6 no)

FLanding Brackets Stiffeners (6 no)

GDouble Width Step Treads (1 no)

HDouble Width Step Struts (1 no)

ISingle width step treads (1 no left and 2 no right hand)

JSingle width step struts (1 no left and 2 no right hand)

KRocker Cams (11 no)

LWashers (31 no)

MLanding Timbers for 3 or 4 Dolls (1 no)

NOperating Rockers (8 no)

Components – Lineside 2 – Small Bracket, landings and steps

ASmall Bracket (2 no)

BSmall Bracket Stiffener Plates (2 no)

CSingle width step struts (1 no left and 1 no right hand)

DSingle width step treads (1 no left and 1 no right hand)

ERocking beams

FWashers (12 no)

GLanding Bracket Stiffeners (3no)

HLanding Brackets (3 no)

ILanding Timbers

Required to Complete

This will depend to a large degree on what the nature of the signal is that you are looking to model; this is only, therefore a typical list:

aSignal post – Lochgorm Models do both an appropriate wooden and a lattice post in etched brass (HLI 3 & HLI 7 respectively). Model Signal Engineering (MSE) also offer suitable lattice posts and it is possible to file up a piece of 4mm square section bar to the appropriate taper (see earlier for dimensions).

bDolls – lattice and wooden post dolls are available from MSE or the former can be filed from square section as the main post.

cLamps – Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 5 or MSE

dFinials – Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 4 or MSE

eBrackets – Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 1 or 2 or MSE

fLandings – Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 1 or 2 or MSE

gSteps – Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 1 or 2 (some dolls had short ladders though)

hSignal Arm/Doll operating arms mechanisms – there are several means that the prototype dealt with these; levers arms and rocker arms are provided in Highland Miscellany kit - Lineside 1 or 2 but boiler handrail knobs/wire is required as well for the latter.

iLadder – Miscellany Models do one on 7mm and will do one in 4mm (I cocked up the artwork!)

jOperating wire – 11 gauge (0.24 mm gauge) guitar wire

kWindlass lamp rail – 0.35mm wire (0.5mm)

lSpectacle glass – MSE

mWindlass drum – a short piece of 1mm brass tube (1.5mm)

nArm Pivot wire – 0.5mm (0.7mm) wire

oBalance Arm wire – 0.5mm (0.7mm) wire

pAngle supports for landings – 1 * 1mm milled angle from Eileen’s Emporium or similar (the same for 7mm, as the 4mm is overscale but impractical to make smaller)

* note the dimension in brackets relate to the 7mm scale etch

Instructions

General

1. Do please read these instructions through before starting to use these components. As this is not a full kit, there are items that are described out of sequence with these instructions as work is related to items that are not covered in these components.

2. Most of these components need to be soldered together and I have suggested that you utilise a number of different temperature grade (or melting point) solders. For those of you who are not that familiar with soldering, there are some good guidelines here:

http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=29

3. The key to good soldering is to keep the metal clean, apply plenty of heat for a short period of time and use the right solder and flux, Whilst it is possible (and at times preferable) to use cored solders or electricians solders (which is what you will generally find in a DIY store) you will find it much easier to use proper jewellers or modellers solders. Solders from Carrs (http://www.finescale.org.uk) or Eileen’s Emporium (http://www.eileensemporium.com/) are a good places to start.

4. There are different approaches to how to approach the soldering of kits such as this and many of you will have your own thoughts. If you are a beginner, it is probably best to treat 188o solder as your base line (the number refers to its melt point) and then use lower/higher melt melt solders where I have suggested.

5. When cutting components from the etches, it is important not to bend or distort the part. Thus, scissors or snips are not generally appropriate. Instead, use a craft knife/sharp chisel and cut onto a firm base (wood or similar) or use a piercing saw.

6. Fold lines are always on the inside of the bend for 90o bends. Thus, the item is bent into the half etched line; best done with bending bars or in a smooth jawed vice (pliers are OK for small pieces).

7. Items that are folded through 180o are the opposite. In this instance fold away from the etch line. It is best to do this in two movements; get it to 90 – 120o in the first movement in bending bars or similar and then complete the bend by clasping this shut between a vice or pliers.

8. All of the holes should be etched slightly undersized. This is because the etch process is a little variable so it can over etch and an undersized hole is much easier to deal with than an over sized one! Thus, the holes will need to be opened out slightly either with a broach or with the appropriate sized drill in a pin vice. Take care when doing this, especially with the broach, to make sure that the hole is to the correct size – use a piece of wire to the correct diameter and continue until it is a tight fit. One of the key elements of making signals operate well is to keep all of the bearings and operating points as snug as possible, so take care on the pivots and particularly where operating wires meet cranks.

9. In the instructions below, where dimensions are quoted the initial figure relates to 4mm scale and the figure in brackets relates to 7mm scale.

Brackets

10. Pregroup timber signals did not often have large asymmetrical brackets and this kit is conceived to make a symmetrical bracket arrangement. If your particular signal is assymetrical, some adjustment will be necessary and the miniature bracket contained in Miscellany Models kit Lineside 1 may well be more appropriate (note the miniature bracket is an amendment to this kit and is not in the early batches).

11. If the large brackets are to be used, then remove both halves of the bracket (part A) from the fret, retaining the tab that joins them for the time being. Tin the inside face of the bracket (that is the side without any half etching on it) with a high melt solder. This tab has a small section of full etch through it to act as a folding point. Place the bracket in a vice or “hold & fold” with this folding point such that it is just exposed from the jaws; fold the bracket through an initial 90o with the inside faces coming to meet each other. Take the bracket assembly out of the vice or “hold and fold” and complete the fold with fingers – the parts should locate neatly on top of each other if the folding tab is retained. Sweat the parts together and clean any solder off; especially from the tabs as they will not fit into the stiffener plates if they are too thick.

12. Press out the 8 no half etch holes to each of the rear bracket stiffener plates (part B) with either a rivet tool or a blunted needle held in a pin vice. The stiffener plates are handed and the vertical section has a narrower face than the horizontal. Fold the stiffener plate through 60 – 70o with the half etch on the inside and offer the vertical face onto the bracket – it will slip over the tabs but don’t solder this for the moment. Once this is sitting home onto the bracket, the remainder of the fold in the stiffener plate can be completed and in doing so the horizontal face will slide over the other tab of the bracket. This has been chamfered to allow the stiffener plate to fold in an arc onto it; if it does not fit then ease the tab down in size with a file. Once both faces of the stiffener plate are firmly home, they can be soldered into place again using a high melt solder. Do this in small sections, allowing the piece to cool a little before doing the next part – this will eliminate the possibility that the two halves of the bracket will release.

13. The tabs to both the horizontal face and the vertical face will protrude through the stiffener plate; they need to be filed back to be flush with the rear of this.

14. If the medium bracket is to be used; then proceed with steps 11 – 14 but with parts A & B substituted.

Small brackets with metal plates that then support timber transoms supporting the landing and timber cross battens forming the landing deck

Landing

15. First form the doll/landing support beams from pieces of 3 * 1mm metal strip (5 * 1.5mm in 7mm). These should be cut to the appropriate length; although it is easiest at the moment to merely make them over length and to cut/file them back later. Rebate these where they sit on the post slightly, so that they are a scale 8” apart when placed either side of the post. These should be located either side of the top of the post. Take care to get them both perpendicular to the post and also at the same height as each other. Once happy, secure with a high melt solder.

16. The dolls can be inserted between the landing support beams, they were set at 6’6” centres (the large landing part M can be used to set this out) or the equivalent part X for the small brackets and those that did not clash with the brackets project below slightly with the end shaped to a very shallow cone. Take care to ensure these are parallel and if your prototype had brace bars between the dolls remember to predrill the holes first!

17. Now mount the brackets below the support beams. The bracket stiffener plate (part D) will sit underneath the beams and this helps to align them. Secure with a medium melt solder, so that the beams do not detach.

18. There are several options for the landing as sometimes the landing treads were perpendicular to the support beams (as catered for by part M for the large brackets or part X for the small brackets) and at others they were parallel to them (not catered for in this kit). If the former is to be adopted then landing (part M/X) should be removed from the fret without removing the spacer jig that pick up the ends to the treads or the tab that holds the free ends of the treads that coincide with the doll positions. The landing is sized to suit a four doll signal. If a three doll landing is required then part M should be cut down by removing 8 of the landing treads.

19. The arrangement of handrails and their support banisters was bespoke to the particular signal so it is necessary to decide where you are proposing to locate these. On the underside of the landing each of the treads has a half etched dimple provided to enable holes to be formed to the appropriate arrangement – drill the required holes before fixing the treads to the doll/landing support.

20. Affix the landing onto the landing transom bearers with a medium temperature solder, so that these parts do not disassemble as the work is being done. Again, it is helpful to do this in small sections allowing the parts to cool a little to reduce the prospects of this happening.

21. The landing brackets are constructed in a similar manner to that for the main brackets, although they are only one etch thick so do not need to two parts folding over.

22. The ends of the treads sit on a bearer which in turn is supported by the landing brackets. This is not supplied in the etch and should be formed with a 1 * 1mm piece of square section brass (1.5 * 1mm with the longer face vertical in 7mm). This is located underneath the treads at their free end; immediately below where the half etch marks for banisters are.

Short ladders to dolls (affixed to the rear) and handrail posts being added to a landing

23. Once the bearer is in place, it is possible to fit the landing brackets by securing one end to the bearer and the other onto the landing tansom bearer. Different signals had different numbers of brackets but 6 no for the four doll and either 4 or 5 for a three doll signal seems normal.

24. Once the landing and its brackets are secure, the spacer bars can be removed; although it is often easier to retain that to the side where the treads project the most until further into the signal’s construction.

Steps

25. Different signals had different techniques to gain access to the arms/lamps on the dolls; some used small ladders (see Miscellany Models kit - Lineside 6) and others used steps – either narrow or double width. The former of these are handed and this etch provides one double width step and three single widths with a combination of handing.

26. These are all constructed in a similar manner. Starting with the Step Struts (part H or J or on the small brackets part C) form the rivets by pushing out the half etch dimples. Note that these are apparent on both sides of the fret, due to the way that the legs fold up. Repeat the formation of the rivets on the step treads (parts I or G or on the small brackets part D).

27. It is easier to affix the treads to the struts prior to folding these up; although it is important to use only moderate amounts of solder so that solder does not fill the fold lines of the struts. The treads are formed in half etch on the struts to ease the location of the treads line them up and secure with a relatively high melt solder.

28. Now folder the legs to the struts. The half etch line is on the inside of each of the fold and it is necessary to fold these in alternate directions. It is easiest to start with the main tread and fold each leg one step at a time away from this.

Operating Cams & Beams

29. Mackenzie & Holland used a variety of means to translate the movement of the signal wire across

30. the brackets to the arms; one of these was the use of rotating rods that ran along the transom bearer and had a cam lever at either end to which the signal operating rod was affixed.

31. The rod for this arrangement can be formed with 0.6mm dia brass rod (0.8mm), run through handrail knobs that are secured to the transom. To either end of the rod, cam levers are affixed such that they are snug to the outside of the handrail knobs so that the rod does not slide back and forth.

32. Cams for this are provided (part K) and these are best stiffened with a washer (part L) prior to their fitting to the rotating rod. Once the washer is affixed, ensure that the pivot hole and the hole for the rod is clear by drilling through with a 0.4mm drill.

33. Fit the handrail knobs to the transom first and ensure that the rod can rotate in this freely. Then fit the first cam to one end of the rod to start and slide the rod through the handrails such that it is tight to the first handrail knob. Fit a piece of cigarette paper over the free end of the rod and slide it tight against the second handrail knob. Touch a small amount of light oil to the paper and ensure that this soaks through the paper – it will stop the solder flashing across the joint and sticking the mechanism solid.

34. Then slide the second cam in place and ensuring that the parts are clean and with adequate flux, solder in place. The cams should be orientated at the same angle on the rod, so that the movement from the balance weight below is transmitted through to the cam that drives the rod on the signal doll.

35. Rocking beams have only been provided for the small brackets, as they can only be used to transfer the operation a small distance. The only picture I know of them is in Highland Album 1, in the fuzzy picture of Fodderty Junction. Take part E from the fret and pack out the centre hole to the rear with two washers (part F) – then make sure that the hole for the operating rods are cleared to 0.4mm with a drill.

36. Secure the rocking arm to the tansom with a lace maker’s pin, which is best soldered to the rear. To ensure that you do not solder this assembly solid, utilise cigarette paper and light machine oil as is described in the instructions for Miscellany Models kits 3, 4, & 5 – Signal Arms (etc).

Operating Arms

37. An alternative approach to the operation of bracket signals was the use of elbow rocking arms; one above the main post and another below the doll for each of the signals being operated.

38. The rocking arms (part N) are best stiffened with either a single washer (part L) or a pair either side of the arm (especially in 4mm). Ensure that the holes are clear by drilling through with a 0.4mm hole.

39. Once formed, the rockers are best affixed with a brass dressmakers pin that can be inserted into a hole drilled in the transom. Slide the pin through the rocker and then slide a piece of cigarette paper on top of this. Touch the paper with some light oil to prevent the solder flashing over and sticking the pivot. Insert the pin into the hole in the transom and solder from behind; utilising a good amount of flux and heat, but not taking too long or the remainder of the soldered joints will become molten.