36 | October 2018 • DECANTER VALUE MALBEC 1 Bodega Atamisque, Serbal, Tupungato 2017 93 Paz Levinson 93 Patricio Tapia 92 £15.50 Bottle Apostle, Hennings Wine, Secret Cellar Paz Levinson What a lovely wine! Full of energy and a model of balance, with crunchy and delicious red fruit, plus notes of flowers, herbs and lavender. A fresh, savoury and honest wine. More people should try unoaked Malbec. Patricio Tapia This is delicious: refreshing, simple and approachable. A feast of red fruits and spices on the palate, which is light and super-drinkable. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 13% 2 Fabre Montmayou, HJ Fabre Barrel Selection, Patagonia 2015 93 PL 93 PT 93 £15.99 Laithwaites PL This wine shows pure red and black fruit, with spicy aromas of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The palate is dry, with moderate acidity and textured tannins. It is slighty warm in the aftertaste but overall is a very good example of Patagonian Malbec. PT Fruity and simple style, with a generous core of ripe red fruit and lifted notes of violets on the medium-bodied palate. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 15% 3 Susana Balbo, Crios, Mendoza 2017 93 PL 94 PT 92 £14.55-£15.75 Dalling & Co, Dunell’s, Exel, Highbury Vintners PL What a cracking wine! Black plum and violet aromas lead to a fresh and crunchy palate, with balanced alcohol. Fresh, pure – and amazing value. PT Incredible value here. This is a pure expression of Malbec, with aromas of violets and filled with cherry notes. An impressive expression of the grape. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14% 4 Altocedro, Año Cero, La Consulta 2017 92 PL 92 PT 91 £15.99 Condor Wines PL What a fantastic expression of La Consulta, with ripe fruit and intense flavours of cassis and blueberries. A delicious Malbec to drink slightly chilled with boudin noir. PT Radiant red fruit character. This is refreshing and poised on the palate, with a layer of nervy tannins and a bright, fruity finish. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14% 5 Bodega Norton, Finca La Colonia Colección, Luján de Cuyo 2018 92 PL 93 PT 90 £12.99-£13.99 All About Wine, Campbell’s of Leyburn, Oakham Wines PL A pristine example from the new 2018 vintage, showing crunchy black fruit and blueberries. A Malbec with tension, purity, freshness and very balanced acidity. I’ve heard lots of good things about the quality of the 2018 vintage – and we can see it here. Bravo! PT This is super-fresh. A refreshing palate, generously laden with red berries and violets. Simple and straightforward style; a real delight. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5% ➢ 1 2 3 4 5 Great value Malbec from Argentina With an increasingly diverse range of styles now available to buy, Malbec offers wine lovers both plenty of choice and excellent value for money. Patricio Tapia assesses the stylistic differences and recommends 27 wallet-friendly wines to try THERE WAS A time when Argentinian Malbec seemed to have only one voice. Taking advantage of the variety’s characteristic softness and its fruity nature, the style that winemakers chose to promote emphasised the ripeness and sweetness of grapes that were harvested very late, so that they acquired a jammy, unctuous character. And when the price allowed it, there was also a strong tendency to use new oak. This style soon became popular around the world and catapulted Malbec to stardom. That one voice spoke for Argentina at all price levels, from the simplest Malbecs to the most ambitious. However, in the last decade – and with gathering momentum in the past five years in particular – the range of Malbec styles has opened up, offering new voices. The variety has shown winemakers many different faces; arguably more than anyone could ever have imagined. Argentina currently has just over 40,000ha of Malbec vineyards, 85% of which are planted in Mendoza, a desert region where the sun is generous and rains are scarce. Malbec has managed to adapt itself very well to these conditions and transmit that sunshine in its generous flavours. But naturally having a low concentration of vegetal tones (unlike, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc) Malbec has a wide harvest window. This means that grapes can be picked very early in the season without offering vegetal notes, or harvested very late to achieve those unctuous and sweet flavours. The time period between these two extremes of harvesting can be as much as six weeks. Increasingly, producers are now harvesting earlier, especially when it comes to simpler wines, like the value Malbecs that we tried for this tasting. And when that decision is made, the red, tense, crunchy fruit of Malbec comes to the fore, offering delicious wines, the kind of easy-drinking reds that are consumed more by the bottle than by the glass. Changing style ‘The sweet spot for Malbec is between £8 and £20 – we saw that at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards and it was reaffirmed in this tasting,’ says award-winning sommelier Paz Levinson, who tasted these wines with me and was the Acting Regional Chair for Argentina at the 2018 DWWA. ‘The variety’s bright fruit appeals to many – today we see more fresh, crunchy black berries instead of the plummy, desiccated fruit of old. The oak is much more balanced – or completely absent – without the palate losing body or fruit concentration. This is all down to producers having a much better understanding of their vineyards as well as changes in both climate and consumer tastes.’ That said, it must be pointed out that not all of the recommendations here are fresh, red-fruited thirst-quenchers. In this price range we also found some richer, unctuous Malbecs with oaky tones and others with great extraction and concentration of black fruit. This variety of styles in no bad thing. As Argentinian producers continue to overcome prejudices about what the public wants or does not want, the different voices will continue to emerge, giving Malbec a diversity that until very recently it did not have. And that is very good news for wine lovers. Patricio Tapia is a wine writer and author of the annual Descorchados guide to South America Paz Levinson is an award-winning sommelier, who works between Paris and her native Argentina ‘The sweet spot for Malbec is between £8 and £20 – we saw that at this year’s DWWA and it was reaffirmed in this tasting’
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3 6 | O c t o b e r 2 0 1 8 • D E C A N T E R
value malbec
1 Bodega Atamisque, Serbal, Tupungato 2017 93 Paz Levinson 93 Patricio Tapia 92
£15.50 Bottle Apostle, Hennings Wine, Secret Cellar
Paz Levinson What a lovely wine! Full of energy and a model of balance, with crunchy and delicious red fruit, plus notes of flowers, herbs and lavender. A fresh, savoury and honest wine. More people should try unoaked Malbec.
Patricio Tapia This is delicious: refreshing, simple and approachable. A feast of red fruits and spices on the palate, which is light and super-drinkable.
Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 13%
2Fabre Montmayou, HJ Fabre Barrel Selection, Patagonia 2015 93 PL 93 PT 93
£15.99 Laithwaites
PL This wine shows pure red and black fruit, with spicy aromas of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The palate is dry, with moderate acidity and textured tannins. It is slighty warm in the aftertaste but overall is a very good example of Patagonian Malbec.
PT Fruity and simple style, with a generous core of ripe red fruit and lifted notes of violets on the medium-bodied palate.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 15%
3Susana Balbo, Crios, Mendoza 2017
93 PL 94 PT 92
£14.55-£15.75 Dalling & Co, Dunell’s, Exel, Highbury Vintners
PL What a cracking wine! Black plum and violet aromas lead to a fresh and crunchy palate, with balanced alcohol. Fresh, pure – and amazing value.
PT Incredible value here. This is a pure expression of Malbec, with aromas of violets and filled with cherry notes. An impressive expression of the grape.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14%
4Altocedro, Año Cero, La Consulta 2017
92 PL 92 PT 91
£15.99 Condor Wines
PL What a fantastic expression of La Consulta, with ripe fruit and intense flavours of cassis and blueberries. A delicious Malbec to drink slightly chilled with boudin noir.
PT Radiant red fruit character. This is refreshing and poised on the palate, with a layer of nervy tannins and a bright, fruity finish.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14%
5Bodega Norton, Finca La Colonia Colección, Luján de Cuyo 2018 92 PL 93 PT 90
£12.99-£13.99 All About Wine, Campbell’s of Leyburn, Oakham Wines
PL A pristine example from the new 2018 vintage, showing crunchy black fruit and blueberries. A Malbec with tension, purity, freshness and very balanced acidity. I’ve heard lots of good things about the quality of the 2018 vintage – and we can see it here. Bravo!
PT This is super-fresh. A refreshing palate, generously laden with red berries and violets. Simple and straightforward style; a real delight.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5% ➢
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Great value Malbec from Argentina
With an increasingly diverse range of styles now available to buy, Malbec offers wine lovers both plenty of choice and excellent value
for money. Patricio Tapia assesses the stylistic differences and recommends 27 wallet-friendly wines to try
ThERE wAs A time when Argentinian Malbec seemed to have only one voice. Taking advantage of the variety’s characteristic softness and its fruity nature, the style that winemakers chose to promote emphasised the ripeness and sweetness of grapes that were harvested very late, so that they acquired a jammy, unctuous character. And when the price allowed it, there was also a strong tendency to use new oak. This style soon became popular around the world and catapulted Malbec to stardom.
That one voice spoke for Argentina at all price levels, from the simplest Malbecs to the most ambitious. however, in the last decade – and with gathering momentum in the past five years in particular – the range of Malbec styles has opened up, offering new voices. The variety has shown winemakers many different faces; arguably more than anyone could ever have imagined.
Argentina currently has just over 40,000ha of Malbec vineyards, 85% of which are planted in Mendoza, a desert region where the sun is generous and rains are scarce. Malbec has managed to adapt itself very well to these conditions and transmit that sunshine in its generous flavours. But naturally having a low concentration of vegetal tones (unlike, for example, Cabernet sauvignon or Cabernet Franc) Malbec has a wide harvest window. This means that grapes can be picked very early in the season without offering vegetal notes, or harvested very late to achieve those unctuous and sweet flavours. The time period between these two extremes of harvesting can be as much as six weeks.
Increasingly, producers are now harvesting earlier, especially when it comes to simpler wines, like the value Malbecs that we tried for this tasting. And when that decision is made, the red, tense, crunchy fruit of Malbec comes
to the fore, offering delicious wines, the kind of easy-drinking reds that are consumed more by the bottle than by the glass.
Changing style‘The sweet spot for Malbec is between £8 and £20 – we saw that at this year’s Decanter world wine Awards and it was reaffirmed in this tasting,’ says award-winning sommelier Paz Levinson, who tasted these wines with me and was the Acting Regional Chair for Argentina at the 2018 DwwA. ‘The variety’s bright fruit appeals to many – today we see more fresh, crunchy black berries instead of the plummy, desiccated fruit of old. The oak is much more balanced – or completely absent – without the palate losing body or fruit concentration. This is all down to producers having a much better understanding of their vineyards as well as changes in both climate and consumer tastes.’
That said, it must be pointed out that not all of the recommendations here are fresh, red-fruited thirst-quenchers. In this price range we also found some richer, unctuous Malbecs with oaky tones and others with great extraction and concentration of black fruit. This variety of styles in no bad thing. As Argentinian producers continue to overcome prejudices about what the public wants or does not want, the different voices will continue to emerge, giving Malbec a diversity that until very recently it did not have. And that is very good news for wine lovers.
Patricio Tapiais a wine writer and author of the annual Descorchados guide to South America
Paz Levinsonis an award-winning sommelier, who works between Paris and her native Argentina
‘The sweet spot for Malbec is between £8
and £20 – we saw that at this year’s DWWA
and it was reaffirmed in this tasting’
value malbec
6Gauchezco, Mendoza 2017
92 PL 93 PT 90
£10.99 Ministry of Drinks, Murcatto Wines, Simply Wines Direct,
The Whalley Wine Shop, The Wine Circle, Vagabond Wines, Wapping Wines
PL Delicious cassis notes mixed with blackcurrant leaf. This wine is young and full of energy and vibrancy. A very beautiful example of the 2017 vintage, with purity of fruit and showing considered winemaking.
PT A pure expression of Malbec. This has violets, cherries and nice, crunchy acidity on the palate. An easy-drinking style.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14%
7Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza 2017
92 PL 92 PT 91
£10.79-£11.50 Blas ar Fwyd, Cellar Twelve, Noel Young Wines, Paramount
Wines, TJ Wines, Welch & Co
PL Black fruit, mint, lavender, floral notes and violets. This is a fantastic wine to drink young; delicious and balanced, with crunchy, fresh fruit. What a beauty!
PT Simple and refreshing. This is a great introduction to Malbec.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14%
8 Pablo Y Walter, Mendoza 2017
92 PL 94 PT 90
£9.69-£9.99 Italian Continental Stores, Noel Young Wines, The Good
Wine Shop, The Grape & The Good, Youngs
PL This is a very floral wine, backed by a nice combination of black and red fruit. Exemplary balance of ripe fruit and crunchy acidity. Drink this slightly chilled on a warm summer evening.
PT Ripe, but refreshing and easy to drink; this is light and fruity.
Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5%
9 Viña Cobos, Felino, Mendoza 2017
92 PL 93 PT 91
£14.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent, Davis Bell McCraith
PL A lovely perfumed nose, though it needs time to open up. Smoky notes need to integrate. This is pure black fruit deliciousness.
PT A generous core of raspberry and blackberry fruit. A simple style that’s refreshing and straightforward.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14%
10Beefsteak Club, Reserve, Uco Valley 2015
91 PL 91 PT 90
£16.99 Amazon, Ocado
PL A muscular wine that’s packed with lovely concentration of cassis and blueberry fruit. Nice aromas of chocolate and vanilla, mixed with blackberry jam. A cracking wine for barbecues.
PT Spicy and soft, with a focus on fruit ripeness. Good grip to go with grilled meat and has enough tannin to age for another couple of years in bottle.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14.5% ➢
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value malbec value malbec
16 Matias Riccitelli, The Apple Doesn’t Fall Far From The Tree, Mendoza 2015 91 PL 91 PT 90
£18.65-£19.49 Corking Wines, Exel, Hallgarten, Strictly Wine, Wineman
PL Crunchy blueberry fruit, just at the perfect point of ripeness; very fresh and minty. Fresh acidity on the palate, with chalky tannins. Intense, but ripe and well made.
PT Refreshing and vibrant, this has lots of red fruit flavours and touches of violet. Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14.5%
17 Perdriel, Series, Luján de Cuyo 2016
91 PL 90 PT 91
£14.99-£15.99 Abasto, All About Wine, Grapes of Worthing
PL Cassis, blueberries, plums, exotic spices. A deep sense of place; this is Luján with its pink pepper, plummy aspect and muscular tannins.
PT A pure expression of the grape; this is delicious, with its bright flavours of cherries and strawberries. Smooth, soft and round on the palate.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14%
18 Rutini, Mendoza 2016
91 PL 91 PT 91
£20 Carson Wines
PL Very deep colour. Black fruits and blueberries, with lovely purity.
PT Brilliant fruit, with notes of cherry and violet. Has enough tannic grip to sustain the fruit flavours and its weight. Very good value.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13%
19 Trivento, Reserve, Mendoza 2017
91 PL 91 PT 90
£8 Lanchester Wines
PL Crunchy and fresh red and black fruit, with perfumed violet notes. The palate is very balanced and fresh, with lovely energy and purity.
PT An approachable, fruity style. Plenty of strawberry and raspberry notes.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13%
20 Andeluna, Altitud, Tupungato 2015
90 PL 90 PT 90
£15.65-£17.49 Eton Vintners, Exel, Great Wines Direct, Hallgarten,
Wine Poole
PL The blue fruit is crunchy and ripe, with lavender, a touch of cocoa and vanilla.
PT A layer of super-ripe fruit combines with bright acidity. Big but refreshing.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14.5%
21Bodega Renacer, Punto Final, Mendoza 2017
90 PL 91 PT 89
£11.45-£12.99 Askewine, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent,
Exel, Hay Wines, Liberty Wines, Philglas & Swiggot
PL Lively aromas of blueberry and plums, with pink pepper notes. A fresh mouthfeel.
PT Another super-fruity and approachable Malbec, showing some mineral notes.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5% ➢
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11 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and Nicolas Catena, Aruma, Mendoza 2017
91 PL 92 PT 90
£14.99 Averys, Davis Bell McCraith, Lea & Sandeman, The Oxford Wine Co
PL Floral and perfumed, with lovely, crunchy, fresh red fruit: strawberries and raspberries. This is a well-balanced Malbec. The expression of the 2017 vintage is evident in the purity of fruit.
PT Nice red fruit character. Refreshing and simple, with lovely floral notes.
Drink 2018 Alc 13.5%
12 Familia Zuccardi, Q, Uco Valley 2015
91 PL 92 PT 90
£14.99-£16.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carruthers & Kent,
The Solent Cellar
PL This wine has a very balanced structure, with floral aromas of potpourri, violets and lavender. A beautiful mouthfeel, with chalky tannins. A great example of Uco Valley Malbec, at a very affordable price.
PT This is a gentle Malbec; light-bodied, with sweet fruit flavours of blackberries and strawberries.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14%
13 Finca el Origen, Reserva Estate, Uco Valley 2017 91 PL 92 PT 90
£12.90 Colombier Wines
PL What a beauty! An excellent wine that demonstrates the essence of Uco Valley Malbec. A beautiful combination of pure, dark fruit and fragrant herbal aromas of thyme, rosemary and lavender.
PT Refreshing and firm, with solid tannins and a bright core of red fruit.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 14%
14 Finca Ferrer, Acordeón, Gualtallary 2017
91 PL 92 PT 90
£11.99 Ocado
PL I love the freshness of this wine, with its delicious combination of black and crunchy red fruit, plus herbs and spices. Beautiful balance on the palate, with a core of chalky tannins.
PT Generous fruit on the palate. Rich and round, with notes of sweet spice.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14%
15 Finca Sophenia, Tupungato 2017
91 PL 91 PT 90
£13.59-£18.95 Christopher Piper Wines, Denby Dale Wines, James
Nicholson Wine, Lapworth Wines, The Wine Reserve
PL Exotic and ripe red fruit, with notes of mint, herbs, jarilla flower and lavender. Lovely herbal notes and pyrazines typical of wines from Tupungato. The tannins are intense, but savoury. A Malbec with the soul of Cabernet Franc!
PT A different approach to Malbec. This is a herbal style, with notes of grass and pine. It’s refreshing and fruity, with an intense tannic structure.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.5% ➢
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value malbec
22 Chakana, Nuna Estate, Luján de Cuyo 2017
90 PL 90 PT 90
£11.99 Amazon, Dylans Wine Merchants, John E Fells, Roberts & Speight
PL Concentrated and pristine black fruit. This is a fresh and lively Malbec.
PT A great example of the grape: refreshing, filled with cherry notes and has a generous finish, with radiant red fruit and spicy black pepper.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13.5%
23Colomé, Estate, Salta 2016
90 PL 90 PT 90
£17.80-£19.99 (2015) Widely available via Liberty Wines
PL Intense black fruit, with lovely herbal aromas. The palate is well balanced, with noiceable but ripe tannins. A long and persistent finish.
PT This wine has a generous layer of red fruits, that are both refreshing and deep. Great value to be found here.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14.5%
24Escorihuela Gascón, Agrelo 2017
90 PL 91 PT 89
£10 Matthew Clark
PL Very spicy red fruit with herbal and graphite notes. Pristine fruit and a balanced mouthfeel, with fresh acidity and textured tannins. A lovely wine.
PT Ripened under the sun of Agrelo, this offers a generous core of fruit that’s well balanced by lively acidity.
Drink 2018-2019 Alc 13%
25 Fabre Montmayou, Gran Reservado, Mendoza 2015
90 PL 89 PT 90
£14.99 Laithwaite’s
PL Lovely pure fruit, with muscular tannins. A well-constructed wine.
PT Lots of varietal typicity. Cherry and violet flavours; round, soft tannins and bright acidity that persists all the way through the palate. Super value.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14.5%
26 Gen Del Alma, Superlógico, Tupungato 2016
90 PL 89 PT 90
£17.50 Corks of Cotham, Cork of the North, Seven Cellars
PL A little bit closed on the nose, it needs time and air, but the fruit is ripe and expressive. Has charm but is a little edgy. Perfect for Old World palates.
PT Radiant and refreshing, with bright and crunchy red fruit, plus fresh acidity.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12.5%
27 Raffy, Hedera, Gualtallary 2015
90 PL 90 PT 90
£15 London Wine Shippers
PL Red fruits, with notes of cloves, cinnamon, lavender and thyme. Juicy and fresh.
PT Pure fruit expression; a beautiful example of a mountain Malbec.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 15% D
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