Uga presentation 2010

Welcome Dawgs

Buhler Quality Yarns

Organization

H erm ann B uhler A G B oard

M. KagiCEO Herm ann Buhler AG, Sennhof

W . BieriCEO Buhler Quality Yarns Inc. Jefferson

M. KagiDeputee to the board

B. DenzlerChairm an

Key figuresSennhof Jefferson

Production in lbs 8,800,000 8,800,000Yarn Counts Produced

16 – 120 Ne Ø 56 Ne

12 – 90 Ne Ø 36 Ne

Turnover US $ 36 million US $ 28 million Employees 155 145Number of Spindles

46000 32000

Compact Spindles

9000 0

Export Quota >80% >50%

Sales By Country (%)

Fibers of Choice

Supima Production StatisticsProduction Stats in 480LB Bales

Harvest Acres

Avg. Bales/Acre 2.40 2.40 2.89 2.82 2.51

Something to think about…

Fast Fashion??Promotional Tees ??Sustainable - NO

Quality should be designed in!!

2,800,116,672 Units

0.80 lbs/unit

2,240,093,338 Lbs of Yarn

1.25 Fiber LBS/ 1 LB of yarn

2,800,116,672 Lbs of Cotton Fiber

480 LBS/Bale of Cotton

5,833,576 Bales of Cotton needed

4.50 Bales/Acre

1,296,350 Acres of Cotton Needed

This is just one category!!!

MicroModal from Lenzing is produced in Austria using Beachwood trees.

Yes- this is sustainable!!!

•Sustainable•Adopted by the Organic Exchange

•Functional•Bacteria Inhibiter•Moisture Absorption•Cool to the touch•No static charge

•Micro Fiber•.8 denier

•European certifications for Eco-friendliness

How do you manufacture yarns?

The cotton fibers must be opened, blended, and cleaned. Bales of cotton are configured in a way for consistent characteristics of the

cotton fiber. Unfortunately, nature does the grow the fibers same way every time. There are variabilities in fiber-to-fiber, bale-to-bale, and field-to-field.

To reduce these varabilities, special procedures and equipment are needed. The pictures above displays the equipment typically used in cotton bale

opening, blending, and cleaning. The picture (1) shows how the cotton is introduced into the process. The

bales are laid down in a particular mix and configuration. Picture (2) shows the equipment which will further open, blend, and clean

the cotton fibers.

1 2Cotton Laydown Opening, Blending, and Cleaning

1

Once the cotton fibers have been processed through the opening, blending, and cleaning equipment, the cotton fibers are individually cleaned, aligned, and formed into a card sliver with a certain weight per unit length.

Picture (3) displays the “carding” equipment used for this process. The cotton fibers will be transformed into various shapes, sizes, and

weights through out the fiber to yarn process. Picture (4) shows the next step in the process which is called “Pre-

Drawing.” The purpose of this process is to further align the cotton fibers and to blend the slivers into a more consistent specified weight and length.

3 4Carding Pre-Drawing

The next step in the process is to further blend and align the cotton sliver from “Pre-Drawing” and convert the product into a package which can be presented to the “Combing” process.

This process is called “Lapwinding.” Picture (5) shows an example of the product which is produced at “Lapwinding.”

Picture (6) is a comber with the laps mounted above. On this particular machine, eight laps are introduced to the combing process.

Without this process, no cotton yarn can be considered “combed.” The combing equipment will actually comb the shorter fibers and remaining

organic leaf and stems particles (pepper trash) from the cotton fiber bundle presented to the comber in a lap form.

The comber will transform the 8 laps back to a sliver with a specific weight per length parameter. This allows for additional blending (8 laps to on sliver).

The product produced from this process is brighter, softer, and more delicate.

5 6

Lapwinding Combing

The next step is to blend and align the the combed cotton sliver in the process called “Finished Drawing.” In the picture (7) you can see where a certain number of cans are placed behind the machine. Out the front, the product is one sliver which weighs a specified weight per unit length.

This is the most critical process by which the consistency of the yarn weight (Yarn Count) is determined. Now you know why there is so much blending in the processes leading up to this point.

The next picture (8)is that of a “Roving Machine.” Its purpose is to transform the “Finished Cotton Sliver” into a product which can be presented to the “Ring Spinning” machine. This product is called “Roving.” The “Roving” has certain weight per unit length parameter as well.

7 8

Finished Drawing Roving

8

Picture (9) displays a Ring Spinning alley. Here you can see the Roving hung above the machine and processed into yarn.

The Roving is drafted (stretched) by a series of rolls. Each roll rotates at a different “rpm” ( one faster than the previous). This increasing speed of the rolls creates a drafting effect which reduces the weight of the roving (weight per unit length) to the approximate target weight of the yarn.

Twist is inserted on the fiber bundle at the time that it exits the last roller. The amount of twist inserted is determined by by various factors. Those factors are runability of the yarn in Spinning, runability of the yarn in the subsequent process, fabric strength required, and “look and feel” of fabric ( knitted or woven) which customer is trying to achieve.

Picture (10) shows the drafting system (rolls) by which the roving weight is reduced to the desire yarn weight.

Ring Spinning Aisle Ring Spinning Drafting System

9 109 10

Once the yarn has been formed by adding twist, it is wound onto a bobbin for further processing. Picture (11) shows this product prior to transporting it to the “Winder.”

The ring spinning machine fills the bobbin with yarn. The yarn on the bobbin is still not suitable for knitting or weaving. This bobbin yarn must be transformed to a cone of yarn which has much more length wound onto it than the bobbin.

The next process is “Winding.” Winding takes the bobbins from the ring spinning machine and winds it to a cone. You can see this cone being formed on the winder machine by looking at the yellow arrow.

The yarn which is wound on the cone at the winder is cleared of major defects. These defects are in the form of “thick and thin” places along the yarn. We remove these defects so as to not create an objectionable defect in the fabric. The device which clear the defects cannot cut out every “thick or thin” place in the yarn. We controll the size and length of the defect to cut out.

Spinning Bobbins Winder

11 1212

The Transformation

From Seed To Cotton To Bale To Sliver

To Roving To Yarn To Yarn Cone Woven or Knitted into fabrics

Abercrombie & FitchAnthropologieBloomingdalesNordstromVictoria’s SecretSplendidLa CosteJockeyElie Taharie

Macy’s3 DotsJuicy CoutureLL BeanUS ArmyColdwater CreekMichael StarsJames Perse

What brands use our yarns?

Informative Linkswww.buhleryarns.comhttp://bdot-usa.blogspot.comFacebook Pagewww.supima.comwww.textileworld.comwww.apparelnews.netwww.apparelmag.comwww.just-style.comwww.aapnetwork.net

Look for our partner’s labels and ours