Traveller Magazine

cape town’s south african jewish museum . lisbon . gatsby-fever grips sydney

traveller.

52 Issue 547. February 2013

Traveller

Shalom: South Africa from a different perspective

CAPE TOWN’S SOUTH AFRICAN JEWISH MUSEUM IS AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE – IF YOU GET PAST THE FRONT DOOR.

Words: Tim DawePhotography: © Jono David, HaChayim HaYehudim Jewish Photo Library

www.rotarydownunder.org 53

Traveller

I shouldn’t feel scared trying to enter a place of worship. But that is exactly how I feel standing in front of this narrow wire entrance topped with razor wire, confronted by a large “security person” of indeterminate authority carrying a mean-looking

weapon – guns not being my special subject in this quiz show.

The inquisitor searching my backpack is built like a Springbok forward rather a choirboy, but is courteous. Gaining a little composure I stammer out that this procedure seems unusual.

“This is a synagogue. We need this sort of protection. It happens all over the world,” he says politely.

“Er, not in my part or the world.”I am at the Grand Synagogue to see the South African

Jewish Museum in Cape Town, just up from Parliament House. But I’m not quite sure why. Was it something I read? Something a fellow Rotarian said during my GSE

visit here? It is not related to my background – unless you count a penchant for visiting oddball museums.

I cross through the soaring space of an empty courtyard alongside the synagogue. My assumptions change when, turning, I see the dramatic sweep of stark, modernist, architecture in Jerusalem stone. This is not a shoe-string operation of elderly folk displaying their grandparents’ effects with that faint whiff of mothballs. No way; this is a modern, professional, state-of-the-art museum. Who would have thought?

I enter via a ramp from quiet solitude to light and energy. Exhibits whirr and whiz and there is a buzz in this open space as people move around enthusiastically. Modernity joins the Old Synagogue museum by a symbolic, clear, “gangplank” bridge. There is a 100-seat auditorium and the fashionable Riteve Café serves, of course, kosher food. The museum was opened in 2000 by “its friend” Nelson Mandela, with Helen Suzman in attendance.

54 Issue 547. February 2013

Traveller

Touch screens, interactive computers and surround-sound screenings are placed alongside an itinerant pedlar’s smous (cart) and an original cabin trunk. The curator’s goal of piquing our interest with diversity, in both content and media, without overwhelming information, is fully achieved. I am particularly taken by the full-scale replica of Riteve shtetl (village) in 1880s Lithuania. It’s easy to absorb the sense of Jewish village life walking through this seemingly abandoned Baltic pine cottage, with its table set for dinner, past a general store, around the well, and to a tailor’s shop that looks like he’s stepped out for a bagel.

There is a Holocaust centre elsewhere, but this museum has a focus on migration. Much is made of these poor immigrants and how they and their descendants (mostly unknown to me) made good in South Africa as scientists, Nobel laureates in literature, cricketers, social justice champions and actors, and my instant favourite, the irrepressible entrepreneur Barney Barnato. All of these people seem to have come from a handful of villages “beyond the pale” in 19th century Latvia. There’s an Australian resonance with, for example, the generations of Greek families from the tiny island of Kastellorizo.

Museums generally offer a realisation of well-known things. You may know about the Rosetta stone, but a museum lets you see it, experience it even. For a few museums, particularly this one, its contents are completely unknown. Everything I see is an unexpected discovery.

I discover the Jewish community’s deep involvement in the overthrow of Apartheid, their strong advocacy, and their cost. The outside world knows of Mandela’s long walk to freedom, but few would recognise the Jewish names of those who risked all to work within the system and lay down the conditions for a democratic nation,

“THE OUTSIDE WORLD KNOWS OF MANDELA’S LONG WALK TO

FREEDOM, BUT FEW WOULD RECOGNISE THE JEWISH NAMES OF THOSE WHO RISKED ALL TO

WORK WITHIN THE SYSTEM AND LAY DOWN THE CONDITIONS FOR A DEMOCRATIC NATION.”

including the inspiring Helen Suzman, fearless political opponent, human rights activist and parliamentary leader for 36 years.

It becomes clear that for Nelson Mandela, opening this museum was much more than just a presidential duty.

Having no expectations, I learn much from this visit – in fact, all I see. But my take-out image is not on the Jews of South Africa. It has to do with architectural design: a spiral staircase. And in keeping with the place, even that has a reflective purpose. Looking from below there’s a large white hole in the floor above. Descending from that, in brilliant white, is the flowing form of an unsuspended staircase shaped like the continuous peel of an apple.

In Mandela’s words, “It’s an unforgettable experience”. If you have the chance, go.

Don’t be put off by the large man with the mean-looking gun.

Fact File

The SA Jewish Museum is at 88 Hatfield St, Cape Town

Web: www.sajewishmuseum.co.zae-mail: [email protected]

OpenSunday-Thursday 10:00am-5:00pmFriday 10:00am-2:00pm

CostR40 adultsR25 students and pensioners

www.rotarydownunder.org 55

Traveller

Portugal has an old-fashioned charm, with medieval castles and picture-perfect villages scattered over meandering coastlines. From the magical capital of Lisbon to Lord Byron’s favourite Portuguese haunt, Sintra, the country’s proud history can be felt everywhere.

Lisbon, Portugal “If you haven’t seen Lisbon, you haven’t seen anything.”

It is easy to be captivated by the magic of Lisbon – Gothic cathedrals, monasteries, museums, the rococo shopfronts, the subtle atmosphere, the geology of the hills, the mournful sound from Fado bars and the city’s thinly veiled history.

History-rich yet ever youthful, lose yourself among the quaint backstreets to discover the local delights of the city. There are traditional products on sale amid the fading grandeur, like the beautiful Luvaria Ulisses, purveyor of handmade calfskin gloves since 1925. Visit Cafe a Brasileira, a gilded and dim cafe where a must taste is Ginginha – a liqueur made from sour cherries. At A Vida Portuguesa on Rua Anchieta, you will struggle to resist the fine Portuguese soaps and beautifully packaged tinned sardines! For the sweet-tooths, try a custard tart, or pastel de nata; you’ll never look back. You’ll find one of the best at Confeitaria Nacional in the old town.

Sintra “The most blessed spot on the whole inhabitable globe.” – Robert Southey

A visit to Sintra, with its glorious beaches and traditional fishing villages, is a must-do on any itinerary that includes Lisbon. Only a 40-minute train ride from Rossio Station in Lisbon, Sintra is an extraordinary place and a UNESCO and World Heritage listed site. It is a mixture of history and fantasy, surrounded by mystical hills with fairytale palaces of 19th century romantic architecture and

Moorish castles used by the Portuguese royalty before the 1910 revolution. In Roman times it was the place for cult moon worshipping, followed by the Moors, who built a hilltop castle, a palace and water fountains around the town.

In the main square is the National Palace, which houses one of the world’s most extensive collections of Mudejar-coloured glazed tiles. The most famous building in Sintra is Pena Palace, listed as one of Portugal’s eight wonders. It is situated on a hill overlooking the town and on a clear day can be seen from Lisbon. Built in the 1840s, it includes a drawbridge, turrets, ramparts and domes and is surrounded by the mystical Pena Park, with over 2000 varieties of trees and exotic plants from the former colonies of the Portuguese empire.

Another attraction is the Moorish Castle, which overlooks Sintra and dates back to the Arab occupation in the ninth century, giving visitors wonderful views of the surrounding villas, palaces and the whole coastline.

A highlight is Quinta da Regaleira, which was built in the neo-manueline style using some of Portugal’s best sculptors and artists such as Luigi Manini, who devoted 14 years of his life to the construction of this fantasy land. There are grottos, labyrinths, subterranean passages and a chapel that has a secret passage linking it with the main house, which is decorated with beautiful paintings, wood panelling and mosaics.

Experience the historic 14km route from Praia das Macas, Europe’s most westerly point, terminating at Ribeira de Sintra, about 1km from Sintra, aboard restored trams from the early 20th century. Ever popular, it runs every hour from Friday-Sunday, so be prepared to queue.

The 104th Rotary International Convention will be held in Lisbon in June 2013. Contact Adele at Venture Holidays on 1300 303 343 or [email protected] for further information.

Portugal: lose yourself in the magic

56 Issue 547. February 2013

Traveller

Peace through Service

RI President Sakuji Tanaka has planned an impressive program of Rotary Global Peace Forums for 2012/13and a general invitation is issued to all Rotarians, partners and friends to participate. Rotary Down Under

and our Travel partner Venture Holidays are pleased to announce the following preliminary details -

Your invitation to join a ROTARY GLOBAL PEACE FORUM TOUR in 2012/13 …

• HIROSHIMA, JAPAN – Peace Begins with You – May 17-18,2013. Explores ways in which each of us has the power to promote peace in our daily lives and in our own communities. This future-focused meeting will ask participants to consider what impact they will make in the days and years to come. This tour will be led by RI Immediate Past Director STUART HEAL and his wife ADRIENNE and will include visits to Rotary clubs. LAND ONLY. AIRLINE TBA: One night Hotel Nikko Narita, Tokyo, and six nights Mitsui Garden Hotel, Hiroshima, Twin share from: $802.00 per person including breakfast - single from $1,498.00. Depart Tuesday, May 14; return Monday, May 20, 2013. A full 13 day tour program starting in Tokyo and ending in Osaka is also available. Includes the Hiroshima Forum plus other Japanese highlights. Twin share from: $4,599.00pp incl breakfast / Single: $5,199.00. Depart Thursday, May 9; return Tuesday, May 21, 2013. February 22, 2013 is the deadline for expressions of interest for the Hiroshima Forum. Bookings close March 22, 2013.

ROTARY DOWN UNDER INC has developed an extremely proficient and cost effective tour organisation in recent yearsand is nowcalling for expressions of interest from Rotarians, partners and friends interested in attending anyor all of the above Peace Forums.

Optional ‘add ons’ for ALL tours will be available nearer the date.

Organisers will strive to organise at least one local Rotary club visit in this Forum city.

For further information: • Adele Nugent – Venture Holidays, Adelaide: [email protected] • Bob Aitken – RDU Executive Director: [email protected]

FRANCE FRANCELANGUEDOCVilla and garden flat in wine country nearMediterranean. Details at: www.les-oliviers.org

ITALYTUSCANY, CHIANTISelf catering Villa/apartments in historical hamlet.Ideal location for relaxing and visit all places ofinterest. Beautiful setting, uncompromised views.Free WiFi. Rotarian owned. www.aiolina.it

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FRANCE FRANCELANGUEDOCVilla and garden flat in wine country nearMediterranean. Details at: www.les-oliviers.org

ITALYTUSCANY, CHIANTISelf catering Villa/apartments in historical hamlet.Ideal location for relaxing and visit all places ofinterest. Beautiful setting, uncompromised views.Free WiFi. Rotarian owned. www.aiolina.it

CANAL CRUISING IN FRANCEwww.canalcruisinginfrance.com

BOOK EARLY & SAVENew Zealand Ph: 07 865 9842

Australia Ph: 02 4363 1617

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ADVERTISE YOURHOLIDAY ACCOMMODATIONContact Gay or Sam for a quote

Phone: 02 9633 4888E: [email protected] AD - $20 plus GST per line

DISPLAY AD $180 plus GSTBook 6 issues, get 1 FREE

www.rotarydownunder.org 57

Traveller

Passengers travelling to the Anzac Centenary with Gallipoli-2015 will enjoy an opulent MSC cabin and the luxury of three Anzac Day choices.

As partners in the recently announced independent Dawn Service, Gallipoli-2015 is able to offer those aboard the chance to stand on hallowed Gallipoli ground as the sun rises on April 25, 2015.

The selected venue is one of special ANZAC significance and is positioned within the Gallipoli National Park.

With capacity for several thousand attendees, this location is seen as an ideal Dawn Service site for several reasons, including:• Beachfront position• Good road access• Ample bus parking• Permanent amenities

This event is a reflection of Dawn Service origins, which initially occurred as independent tributes at various sites around Australia and on the Western Front.

Marcus Falay, of the Rotary Club of Camberwell, Vic, and Dr John Basarin, of the Rotary Club of Hampton, Vic,

are deep into the planning of a respectful and appropriate commemoration. This will include eminent dignitaries to address those gathered.

Event partners Military History Tours have also arranged the arrival of a series of surf boats, each carrying a direct ANZAC descendant. A live big-screen broadcast of Anzac Cove commemorations will precede the intended Gunfire Breakfast.

The new option means Epic Cruise passengers now have three choices to personalise their centennial experience: onboard commemorations, Anzac Cove (for ballot holders), or this open event.

The Gallipoli-2015 team recognise that many Australians and New Zealanders feel a strong Gallipoli connection. An independent Dawn Service allows all those people to share in the true spirit of ANZAC.

For more information about the proposed alternative service, please get in touch at the Gallipoli-2015 website or contact Dr John Basarin ( [email protected]) or Marcus Falay ([email protected]) direct. Phone 1300 766 595.

Dawn Service attendance no longer a lottery

58 Issue 546. December-January 2012-13

Traveller

As the backdrop to Baz Luhrmann’s highly anticipated feature film, Sydney will be gripped by Gatsby-fever in 2013. Discover Leo’s favourite Sydney hangouts, visit the filming locations and sip away in 1920s style bars. This is the insider’s guide to getting involved in Gatsby-mania in Sydney.

A crop of stylish barbers are making the invigorating tradition of the wet shave popular again. Sink back into antique leather barber’s chairs at the Old Fashioned Barber Shop in QT Sydney as hot towels shroud the face to make way for a straight-edged razor. Cleveland’s Salon and Cafe in Surry Hills offers the additional luxury of a steaming hot espresso to sip on during your shave.

Nab an authentic 1920s outfit at Sydney’s Love Vintage show held at the Hordern Pavilion in March. Carey Mulligan’s Daisy Buchanan character accessorised with an exclusive diamond and platinum headpiece and pearl bracelets by jeweller Tiffany and Co. Visit the Castlereagh Street boutique to pick your own piece of opulence.

Throw on the pearls for a fun night out at the lively underground speakeasy Palmer & Co. Take a seat at one of the low-slung tables while logging an order with debonair bar staff decked out in full ’20s garb. Want to kick on? Sign up for Ketel One Bar Tour’s 1920’s Cocktail Bar tour for a fun night visiting small, yet suave establishments.

Step back into an era of glamorous women, elegant gentlemen and good old-fashioned service at Eau De Vie. Hidden in a dark corner of Darlinghurst’s Kirketon Hotel, this dimly lit speakeasy is guarded by a well-suited maître ’d. Slink into one of the leather banquettes and be entertained by waistcoat-clad bartenders as they shake, stir, throw and flame rare spirits into stylish antique glassware.

Gatsby never missed a party, so don’t miss the Blue Mountains’ Roaring ’20s and All That Jazz Festival in February. In exciting developments for 2013, one of the mountain’s icons, the Hydro Majestic, has announced the first phase of plans to reinvent this grand dame to its

Great Scott!Gatsby-fever grips Sydney

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www.rotarydownunder.org 59

Traveller

In the spirit of true adventure, blended with luxury, train travel is still a preferred method of travel. From a railway-rich heritage, New Zealand has been fortunate to retain many of its most scenic rail journeys. Not only is there strength in a national rail network, but also many smaller, privately owned railways still exist.

To discover the best of these journeys, one must travel the length of the country and visit some of the most stunning regions of this fantastic country. Grand Pacific Tours offers the 19-Day New Zealand Rail, Cruise and Coach Holiday to take you on these marvellous rail journeys, as well as an overnight cruise.

All rail journeys offer you a comfortable seat and a huge panoramic view as you thunder through long tunnels, cross daring viaducts and traverse along amazing railway engineering.

The 19-Day tour is fully escorted by a professional and knowledgeable tour guide from Grand Pacific Tours. Experience a deluxe standard of accommodation, including six two-night stays, a superb selection of meals, including a number of specialty meals and enjoy a comprehensive range of prepaid activities and attractions

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former glory, complete with a majestic ballroom.Behind the scenes of every great party is an army of

staff. Discover the lost art of the domestic ‘stillroom’ in a hands-on workshop at Vaucluse House in February. The stillroom in grand houses is where staff prepared medicines, cosmetics, home-brewed beer and wine.

Retrace the footsteps of the film’s star, Leonardo di Caprio, who stayed at Astral Towers for the duration of the shoot. When filming wrapped for the day, Leo was a regular patron of The Star’s dining precinct, with reported

sightings in Sokyo and BLACKby ezard in his signature baseball cap.

Film buffs will revel in a self-guided tour to take in the sights around Sydney that were transformed by Luhrmann and his talented art director wife, Catherine Martin. They include the abandoned Rozelle Power Station, which became Fitzgerald’s ‘Valley of the Ashes’, St Patrick’s College in Manly as Jay Gatsby’s Long Island mansion and Centennial Park was used as the garden of Gatsby’s home.

60 Issue 546. December-January 2012-13

Traveller

COME CELEBRATE PEACE

… your personal invitation from District 9550

Governor Ian Lomas and Monika, and in

keeping with RI President Tanaka’s Rotary

International theme for 2012/13!

The tour group will be led by Rotary Down Under Editor Mark Wallace and District 9550 Past Governor Jeff Crofts.

Numbers will be contained to a maximum of 100 people due to the logistics of touring on the island outside Dili –

reservations will be accepted on a ‘first in’ basis.

The following costings are per person and have been based ona minimum of 50 Adult passengers. They include return flights

ex Darwin, 6 night’s accommodation and return transfers:

Timor Leste is one of the last great frontiers for Rotary and Governor Ian and Monika have chosen to honour the Rotary Club of Dili and the people of Timor-Leste with the staging of the District Conference in the city of Dili from May 4 to 6, 2013.

Ravaged by war only a few years ago, Timor-Leste is making a steady recovery on the back of its natural resources and tourism seems certain to grow at a fast pace in the near future. • Rotary has been at the forefront of aid providers – and there are still many project opportunities. • The Conference tour will include two days of inspecting Rotary projects, prior to the commencement of the Conference proper.

• Touring Rotarians will have the opportunity to inspect and gather Timor support for projects for their own Rotary clubs.

• Members of the tour group will be requested to bring a cash donation from their own Rotary club to support Governor Lomas’ planned program of educational scholarships for Timorese children.

EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST ARE NOW BEING RECEIVED.Telephone Gay or Samantha at Rotary Down Under – 61 02 9633 4888,

or email [email protected]

Jeff Crofts Mark Wallace

in Timor-Leste

Double from $1217Twin from $1282Single from $1482