Singer 66k Handbook

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82387 No. 66

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Singer Sewing MachineNo. 66

Oscillating Hook, For Family Use

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82387 No. 66

Main PartsParts of the Machine Stand

Instructions for Operating the MachineTo Ensure Perfect Action of the MachineTo Take Out the BobbinTo Wind the BobbinTo Replace the BobbinTo Set the NeedleTo Thread the NeedleTo Prepare for SewingTo Commence SewingTo Remove the WorkTensionsTo Regulate TensionsTo Turn a CornerTo Regulate the Length of StitchTo Regulate the Pressure on the MaterialTo Sew Flannel or Bias SeamsA Stitch to Ravel EasilyTo Oil the Machine

HintsThe BeltMachine WOrking HeavilyTo Avoid Breaking NeedlesBreaking of Needle ThreadBreaking of Bobbin ThreadSkipping of StitchesAttachments with the Machine

Instructions for Using the AttachmentsFoot Hemmer

-- Hemming-- Hemming and

Sewing on Lace-- Felling

Adjustable Hemmer-- Hemming-- Wide Hemming

Binder -- BindingBias Gauge

-- To Bind with Dress BraidRuffling

Ruffler -- Ruffling Between BandsTo Ruffle and Sew On

-- Five Stitch Ruffling or PaitingRuffler with Shirring Plate -- ShirringQuilterTuckerUnder BraiderEmbroidary and Darning

Relative Sizes of Needles and Thread

Table of Contents

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82387 No. 66

Main Parts

Parts of the Machine Stand

A. BELT GUIDEB. BAND WHEELC. BAND WHEEL CRANK D. PITMANE. TREADLEF. BELT SHIFTERG. LEGH. DRESS GUARD


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82387 No. 66

INSTRUCTIONS FOR OPERATING THE MACHINE

Raise the presser foot (B. Fig. 3) by means ofthe presser bar lifter (C, Fig. 3) to preventinjury to the foot (B. Fig. 3) and feed (A, Fig..3).

It is necessary to understand the stop motion(D, Fig. 3) by which the balance wheel (E,Fig. 3) can be released when required, thusenabling the operator to become proficient inthe use of the treadle and permitting thewinding of bobbins without running the stitch-ing mechanism. It also allows the operator towind bobbins without removing partially sewnwork and without unthreading the machine.

To release the balance wheel (E, Fig. 3) turnthe stop motion screw (D, Fig. 3, page 3)over toward you. It may be necessary to holdthe balance wheel while loosening the stopmotion screw.

After releasing the balance wheel place yourfeet upon the treadle and with the right hand,turn the balance wheel over toward you. Thiswill start the band wheel, treadle and pitman,the sewing mechanism having been discon-nected.

FIG.3. FRONT VIEW OF THE MACHINE

Continue the motion thus begun by an alter-nate pressure of heel and toe, until a regularand easy movement is acquired, and the bal-ance wheel kept in continuous rotation by useof the feet alone.

When you are thoroughly familiar with thetreadle movement, and can restart themachine without turning the balance wheel inthe wrong direction, tighten the stop motionscrew to connect the balance wheel with thestitching mechanism.

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot,let the foot down upon it, and operate themachine in this way without being threaded,until you have become accustomed to guidingthe material.


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82387 No. 66

To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine

The balance wheel must always turn overtoward the operator.

Do not run the machine with the presser footresting on the feed without cloth under thepresser foot.

Do not run the machine when both bobbincase and needle are threaded unless there ismaterial under the presser foot.

Do not try to help the machine by pulling thefabric lest you bend the needle. The machinefeeds the work without assistance.

The slide over the bobbin case should bekept closed when the machine is in operation.

FIG. 4. REMOVING THE BOBBIN

To Take Out the Bobbin

Draw to the left the slide in the bed of themachine and press the forefinger of the righthand upon the bobbin ejected as shownabove; this will raise the bobbin so that it canbe easily taken out.


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82387 No. 66

To Wind the Bobbin

Release the balance wheel (E, Fig. 3, page3) by turning the stop motion screw (D, Fig.3, page 3) over toward you.

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spin-dle (E, Fig. 6, page 7) and push it up closelyagainst the shoulder, having the small pin inthe spindle enter the hole in the side of thebobbin. Put the spool of thread on the spoolpin (1, Fig. 5). Pass the end of the thread intothe thread guide (2, Fig. 5) then up into thelower eyelet (3, Fig. 6) of the bobbin winderthread guide, into the notch (4, Fig. 6) andpass the thread through the hole in the leftside of the bobbin (5, Fig. 6) from the inside.Press the bobbin winder pulley (B, FIG. 6)down on the balance wheel hub and the latch(C, Fig. 6) will drop down and hold it. Thenoperate the treadle the same as for sewing.

FIG. 5. MACHINE THREADED FOR WINDING THE BOBBIN


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82387 No. 66

To Wind the Bobbin continued...

The end of the thread must be held by thehand unti1 a few coils are wound and shouldthen be broken off. Figs. 5 and 6 show thebobbin winder properly threaded and in posi-tion for winding. When sufficient thread hasbeen wound upon the bobbin it is automati-cally released from the stop latch (C, Fig. 6).

If the pressure of the rubber ring (B, Fig. 6)against the hub of the balance wheel is insuf-ficient for winding the bobbin, loosen theadjusting screw (D, Fig. 6) and press the bob-bin winder lightly until the rubber ring is incontact with the hub of the balance wheel;then tighten the screw.

FIG. 6. WINDING THE BOBBIN


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82387 No. 66

To Replace the Bobbin

Hold the bobbin between the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, the thread leading ontop from the right toward the left, as shown inFig. 7.

Place the bobbin into the bobbin case anddraw the thread into the slot (1, Fig. 8) in thebobbin case, as shown below.

Draw the thread backward between the bob-bin case and the tension spring until it reach-es the notch (2, Fig. 9) then pull the threadtoward the right as shown in Fig. 9.

When closing the slide see that the thread isin the slot (3, Fig. 10) in the right edge of theslide, as shown below.

FIG. 7.REPLACING THE BOBBIN

FIG. 8. THREADING the BOBBIN CASE

FIG. 9. BOBBIN CASE THREADEDFIG. 10. UNDER THREADING COMPLETED


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82387 No. 66

To Set the Needle

Turn the balance wheel over toward you untilthe needle bar moves up to its highest pointin the sleeve (D, Fig. 5), loosen the thumbscrew (C, Fig. 5) in the needle clamp (B. Fig.5) and put the needle up into the clamp as faras it will go, with its flat side toward the right,then tighten the thumb screw.

To Thread the NeedleSEE FIG. 11

Turn the balance wheel over toward you untilthe thread take-up lever (5) is raised to itshighest point. Place the spool of thread onthe spool pin at the top of the machine; leadthe thread into the thread guide (1) at the left,down, under and from right to left betweenthe tension discs (2), into the small wirespring (3), under the thread regulator (4) atthe left (not through the eye in the thread reg-ulator), up and from right to left through thehole in the end of the thread take-up lever(5), down into the eyelet (6), into the lowerwire guide (7), then from left to right throughthe eye of the needle (8).

Draw about two inches of thread through theeye of the needle with which to commencesewing.

FIG. 11. THREADING THE NEEDLE

Instructions for threading the machine fordarning and for embroidery are given onpages 34 and 35.


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82387 No. 66

To Prepare for Sewing

With the left hand hold the end of the needlethread, leaving it slack from the hand to theneedle.

Turn the balance wheel over toward you untilthe needle moves down and up again to itshighest point, thus catching the bobbinthread; draw up the needle thread and thebobbin thread will come up with it through thehole in the throat plate (see Fig. 12). Lay boththreads back under the presser foot.

To Commence Sewing

Place the material beneath the presser foot,lower the presser foot and commence to sew,turning the balance wheel over toward you.

To Remove the Work

Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highestpoint, raise the presser foot and draw the fab-ric back and to the left, pass the threads overthe thread cutter (A, Fig. 12) and pull downlightly to sever them. Leave the ends of thethreads under the presser foot.

FIG. 12. DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD


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82387 No. 66

Tensions

For ordinary stitching the needle and bobbinthreads should be locked in the centre of thethickness of the material, thus:

FIG. 13. PERFECT STITCH

FIG. 14. TIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

FIG. 15. LOOSE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

If the tension on the needle thread is tootight, or if that on the bobbin thread is tooloose, the needle thread will lie straight alongthe upper surface of the material, thus:

If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tightor if hat on the needle thread is too loose, thebobbin thread will lie straight along the underside of the material, thus:

To Regulate the Tensions

The tension on the needle thread should onlybe regulated when the presser foot is down.Having lowered the presser foot, turn thesmall thumb nut (E, shown in Fig. 16, above,and Fig. 5, page 6) at the front of the tensiondiscs over to the right to increase the tension.To decrease the tension, turn the thumb nutover to the left.

FIG 16. NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

The tension on the bobbin thread is regulatedby the larger screw (Fig. 4) which is nearestthe back in the bobbin case tension spring.To increase the tension, turn the screw overtoward you. To decrease the tension, turn thescrew over from you.

When the tension on the bobbin thread hasbeen once properly adjusted it is seldom nec-essary to change it, as a correct stitch canusually be obtained by varying the tension onthe needle thread.


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82387 No. 66

To Turn a Corner

Stop the machine with the needle at its low-est point. Raise the presser foot and turn thework as desired, using the needle as a pivot.

To Regulate the Length of Stitch

The length of stitch is regulated by the largethumb screw (A, Fig. 6) at the front of themachine near the bobbin winder.

To lengthen the stitch turn this screw over tothe right. To shorten the stitch turn this screwover to the left.

To Regulate the Pressure on the Material

For ordinary family sewing it is seldom neces-sary to change the pressure on the material.If sewing fine silk or flimsy material, lightenthe pressure by turning the thumb screw (A,Fig. 5) on the top of the machine over to theleft.

To increase the pressure turn this screw overto the right. The pressure should be onlyheavy enough to prevent the material fromrising with the needle and to enable the feedto move the work along evenly; a heavierpressure will make the machine run hard.

To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams

Use a short stitch and as light a tension aspossible on the needle thread so as to leavethe thread loose enough in the seam to allowthe goods to stretch if necessary.

A Stitch to Ravel Easily

can be made if desired, by having the tensionon the needle thread so light that the bobbinthread will not draw into the goods but liestraight, as shown in Fig. 15.


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82387 No. 66

To Oil the Machine

To ensure easy running the machine andstand requires oiling and if used continuouslyit should be oiled each day. With moderateuse an occasional oiling is sufficient. Oilshould be applied at each of the placesshown by arrows in Figs. 17, 18 and 19. Onedrop of oil at each point is sufficient. Oil holesare provided in the machine for bearingswhich cannot be directly reached.

To oil the mechanism under the slide, drawthe slide (see Fig. 17) to the left and afterremoving the lint and dust which may haveaccumulated put a few drops of oil on thesmall piece of felt at the right of the bobbinejector. The slide should then be closed.

Take out the thumb screw (A, Fig. 17) nearthe lower end of the face plate, raise theplate and slip it off over the head of the screwnear the upper end of the plate; put one dropof oil into each of the oil holes and joints.

FIG. 17. FRONT VIEW, SHOWING OILING POINTS


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82387 No. 66

To Oil the Machine continued...

At the back of the machine is a round plate orcover, fastened by a thumb screw; loosen thescrew, turn the plate upward and fasten bytightening the screw; turn the balance wheelslowly and oil the moving parts inside thenturn the cover down and fasten it as before.

To reach the parts underneath the bed thebelt must be thrown off the band wheel onthe machine stand. For this purpose the beltshifter (F. Fig. 1, page 1) is placed at the frontof the band wheel. By pressing the belt shifterlever to the left and working the treadlemeanwhile, the belt is released and themachine can then be turned back on itshinges. The places to be oiled are indicatedin Fig. 18, page 17, by arrows pointing to theoil holes and bearings.

To oil the stand, put a drop of oil on each ofthe places shown by arrows in the aboveillustration (Fig. 19).

FIG. 18. OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MACHINE

FIG. 19. POINTS IN STAND


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82387 No. 66

The Belt.See that the belt is not too tight; it shouldalways be tight enough not to slip. If tooloose remove the hook at one end, shortenthe belt and rejoin.

Machine Working Heavily.If the machine runs hard after standing idlefor some time use a little kerosene in the oil-ing places, run the machine rapidly, then wipeclean and oil.

To Avoid Breaking Needles.See that the presser foot or attachments aresecurely fastened by the thumb screw. Do notsew heavy seams or very thick goods withtoo fine a needle. A large needle and threadto correspond should be used on heavy work(see page 36).

See that the needle is not bent and avoidpulling the material when stitching.

Singer Needles are the best for every kind of sewingmachine. They are the only satisfactory needles on themarket and are sold in the Singer Green NeedlePacket with the famous red letter "S" upon it. SingerNeedles can be obtained from any Singer Shop orSinger Salesman.

Breaking of Needle Thread. If the needle thread breaks it may be caused by:

Improper threading.Tension being too tight.The thread being too coarse

for size of needle. The needle being bent, having a

blunt point, or being set incorrectly.

Breaking of Bobbin Thread. If the bobbin thread breaks it may be caused by:

Improper threading of bobbin case.Tension being too tight.

Skipping of Stitches. The needle may not be accurately set into theneedle bar or the needle may be blunt orbent. The needle may be too small for thethread in use.

HINTS


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ATTACHMENTS WITH THE MACHINE


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82387 No. 66

Fig 21.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE ATTACHMENTS

FOOT HEMMER - Hemming

Raise the needle to its highest point. Removethe presser foot and attach the toot hemmerin its place (see Fig. 21). Clip off the righthand corner of the cloth, so that it will takethe roll easily, turn up the edge about a quar-ter of an inch, insert it in the mouth of thehemmer and draw or push it along with thestiletto until under the needle. Then let downthe presser bar and after taking two or threestitches, draw gently on the ends of thethreads to help the work along till the feedcatches it. In order to produce a smooth evenhem the mouth of the hemmer must be keptjust full.

Fig. 21 shows also what is known as a bagseam or fell, made by passing two pieces offabric through the hemmer together and hem-ming them down.


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82387 No. 66

FOOT HEMMER Hemming and Sewing on Lace

Start the hem as previously explained, andwhen it is well started raise the needle to itshighest point.

Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure ontile hem, pass the end of the lace through theslot in the side of the hemmer, under theback of tile hemmer and over the hem, asshown in Fig. 22.

Take care that the hem is not displaced in thehemmer and that the needle goes downthrough the lace and hem together. Then letdown tile presser bar and guide the lace overthe front of the hemmer, keeping it well intothe slot.

FIG. 22


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82387 No. 66

FOOT HEMMERFelling

The two pieces of cloth to he felled should belaid one over the other, right sides together,the edge of the under piece being a little far-ther to tile right than the upper piece. Stitchthem together using the hemmer as a presserfoot, the front end of the hemmer forming aguide for tile edges of both pieces, the upperpiece being guided by the inside and theunder piece by the outside of the projectingfront of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 23). Thenopen the work out flat, wrong side up, theedges straight, and taking the edges near thebeginning of the seam in the right hand, andthe ends of the threads in the left hand, drawthe edges into the hemmer which will ill turnthem as in hemming. Guide the second rowof stitching by following the first row with theinside of the projecting front of the foot hem-mer (see Fig. 24).

FIG. 23

FIG. 24


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82387 No. 66

ADJUSTABLE HEMMER Hemming

Remove the presser foot and attach theadjustable hemmer in its place as shown inFig. 25. This hemmer will turn hems from3/16 inch to 1 inch wide. The adjustment ismade by loosening the thumb screw on thehemmer and moving the slide to the right orleft until the hem turned is of the desiredwidth. Enter the edge of the cloth into thehemmer under the scale and draw it backand forth until the hem is formed, stoppingwith the end under the needle. Lower thepresser bar and commence to sew, beingcareful to guide cloth as to keep hemmer full.Felling can also be done with the adjustablehemmer

ADJUSTABLE HEMMERWide Hemming

To make a hem more than one inch wide takeout the thumb screw in the hemmer andremove the slide and pointer; fold and creasedown a hem of the desired width; pass thefold under the extension at the right of thehemmer, and the edge into the folder asshown in Fig. 26 and proceed to stitch thehem.

FIG. 25

FIG. 26


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82387 No. 66

BINDERBinding

Remove the presser foot and attach thebinder in its place. Pass the binding throughthe scroll of the hinder and draw it backunder the needle. Place the edge of thegoods to he bound between the scrolls of thehinder and draw it under the needle. Lowerthe presser bar and sew as usual. To makeFrench folds proceed as directed for bindingexcept that the fold is stitched on to the faceof the material instead of on the edge (seeFig. 27). After loosening the binder set screwand adjusting the binder the line of stitchingcan be brought nearer the centre, this beingmore effective when making French folds.

FIG. 27

FIG. 28

BIAS GAUGE

The bias gauge may be used by placing it onthe point of a pair of scissors, as below, anddifferent widths of material may be cut byadjusting the slide (S. Fig. 28,). Bias bindingfor binder No. 36595 should be cut fifteen-six-teenths of an inch wide if muslin or similarfabrics are used, and to do this the slide (S)should be placed half way between the linesmarked "F" and "B." The edge of the goodsshould be passed through the attachmentand against the slide while cutting. Whenbinding with fine, soft or flimsy materials, cutthe bias binding a suitable fraction wider.

BINDERBind with Dress Braid

The braid being stitched on the edge it shouldfit the binder without turning in the edges, asis the case with bias binding.


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82387 No. 66

RUFFLERRuffling

Remove the presser foot and attach the ruf-fler in its place, connecting the arm with theneedle clamp, as shown in Fig. 29.

The ruffler can be adjusted to make a gatheror plait either at every stitch or once in everyfive stitches as the operator may choose.

To make a ruffle with a gather or plait atevery stitch see that the adjusting lever (A,Fig. 29) of the ruffling is at its lowest point.Place the material to be ruffled between thelower or separator blade and the rufflingblade, draw the material slightly back of theneedle, lower the presser bar and proceed tosew.

FIG. 29

To make a finer gather shorten the stroke ofthe ruffling blade by turning the regulatingthumb screw (B. Fig. 29) over to the left, alsoshorten the stitch. To make a fuller gather orplait lengthen the stroke of the arm by turningthe regulating thumb screw (B. Fig. 29) overto the right, also lengthen the stitch. By vary-ing these adjustments many pleasing vari-eties of work can be accomplished.


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82387 No. 66

RUFFLERRuffling Between Bands

Place the lower piece of material below theseparator blade, the piece of material to beruffled under the ruffling blade and over theseparator blade and the upper piece of mate-rial over the ruffling blade, as shown in Fig.30.

TO RUFFLE AND SEW ON

Place the band below the separator blade thepiece to be ruffled between the separatorblade and the ruffling blade, and proceed.The ruffler should never be operated withoutcloth between the blades.

RUFFLERFive Stitch Ruffling or Plaiting

To make a five stitch ruffle or plait, raise theadjusting lever (A, Fig. 31) to its highestpoint. The ruffling blade will then move for-ward and back once every fifth stitch.

FIG. 30

FIG. 31


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82387 No. 66

RUFFLER WITH SHIRRING PLATEShirring

To attach the shirring plate (see Fig. 20) drawto the left the slide that covers the bobbincase, insert the downwardly projecting hookson the shirring plate under the edge of thethroat plate, push as far as possible to theright and press the pin into the hole at theright of the throat plate, then close the slidecovering the bobbin case.

The lower or separator blade of the ruffler isfastened by a screw. Loosen the screw, takeoff the separator blade and attach the rufflerto the presser bar as instructed.

FIG. 32

Place the cloth between the ruffling blade andthe shirring plate, lower the ruffler on thegoods and operate as in ruffling.


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82387 No. 66

QUILTER

Remove the presser foot and attach the quil-ter foot in its place. The quilter guide can beused on either the right or left side of the nee-dle and the distance of the guide from theneedle determines the width of spacebetween the rows of stitching. Slide the wireof the guide into the holder prepared for it onthe foot and set it to the width desired.

Let the quilter guide follow the edge of thegoods, a straight crease, or a chalk line, asthe case may be, for the first row of stitching.All succeeding rows are made straight and ata uniform distance by keeping the last rowsteadily under the guide.

FIG. 33


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82387 No. 66

TUCKER

Remove the presser foot and attach the tuck-er in its place. The width of the tuck is deter-mined by the scale of figures nearest theneedle, which shows in eighths and six-teenths of an inch the distance of the edge ofthe fold from the line of stitching.

The crease or mark for the second and fol-lowing tucks is determined by the scale near-est the operator and this is set by the line infront of the needle hole in the presser foot.For blind tucks without spaces set bothscales at the same figure; to make spacesbetween the tucks move the front scale far-ther to the left until the desired space isobtained.

Having adjusted the scales for tuck andspace as desired, fold the material andcrease by hand; pass the folded edgebetween the spring and spur near you, thenbetween the two blades of the second scale,and back under the presser foot; draw to theright against the guide, lower the presser bar;see that the lever for the needle clamp tostrike is in its backward position so as to forma crease for the next tuck, then proceed withthe first tuck.

For the second tuck fold carefully at thecrease made by the spur and place the edgeof the first tuck underneath and against thespur at the left. The spur will serve as a guideand will also make a distinct crease for thenext tuck. Always place the last tuck againstthe spur to ensure perfect work.

When making the last tuck the lever uponwhich the needle clamp strikes while tuckingshould he raised to its highest point; while thelever is in this position no crease for a suc-ceeding tuck is made upon the goods.

FIG. 34


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UNDER BRAIDER

Remove the presser foot and attach the quil-ter foot in its place. Attach the under braider(see Fig. 20) as directed for the shirring plate(see page 30). The design to be braided mustbe stamped or traced on the wrong side ofthe goods. Pass the end of the braid backthrough the guides in the under braider andunder the quilter foot as shown above. Lowerthe quilter foot and proceed to sew.

FIG. 35


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82387 No. 66

EMBROIDERY AND DARNING

While embroidery anti darning can be doneon the machine when threaded for regularsewing, the use of feed cover plate (B. Fig.36) No. 32622 is recommended, as movablecontact with the feed in some cases mightinterfere with the handling of the work.

Do not change the adjustment of the feeddog in any way as it is essential that its posi-tion should remain as originally fixed.

When the feed cover plate (B. Fig. 36) isused it is necessary to lead the needle threadthrough the eye in the thread regulator (A,Fig. 36) at the left of the tension discs, andnot under the thread regulator. With thisexception the threading is the same as forregular sewing (see Fig. 11).

Remove the presser foot and let down thepresser bar lifter to restore the tension on theneedle thread, which is released and inopera-tive when the lifter is raised.

To attach the feed cover plate draw to the leftthe slide that covers the bobbin case andinsert the downwardly projecting hooks on thecover plate under the edge of the throat plateand push to the right. After bringing the holeat the right of the cover plate in line with thehole in the throat plate, press the cover

into position, and close the slide (see Fig.36).

Feed cover plates are not included in the reg-ular sets of attachments; they are on sale atall Singer shops at the price of ten centseach.

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82387 No. 66

RELATIVE SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD

(Class and Variety of Needles Used, 15 x 1)

SIZES OF NEEDLES

9

11

14

16

18

19

21

CLASSES OF WORK

Very thin Muslins, Cambrics,Linens,etc.

Very fine Calicoes, Linens,Shirtings.fine Silk Goods, etc.

Shirtings, Sheetings, Calicoes,Muslins, Silk and general domesticgoods and all classes of general work.

All kinds of heavy Calicoes, lightWoolen Goods, heavy Silk, Seaming,Stitching,. etc.

Tickings. Woolen Goods, Trousers,Boys' Clothing,Corsets, Cloaks,Mantles, etc.

Heavy Woolens, Tickings, Bags, HeavyCoats, Trousers, etc. Heavy Clothinggenerally.

Bags, Coarse Cloths and HeavyGoods.

SIZES of COTTON, SILK OR LINEN THREAD

100 to 150 Cotton 00 & 000 SilkTwist

80 to 100 COTTON 0 Silk Twist

60 to 80 Cotton

A & B Silk Twist

40 to 60 Cotton C Silk Twist

30 to 40 Cotton D Silk Twist

24 to 30 Cotton E Silk Twist60 to 80 Linen

40 to 60 Linen or very CoarseCotton

When sending orders for needlesalways specify size required.

Singer 66k Handbook

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bobbin thread

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