PLDT Cook Islands

50 Pour l’amour de TRAVEL

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51Pour l’amour de TRAVEL

The Cook Islands are made up of 15 small islands; the largest of these is Rarotonga. The islands cover 241 square kilometres of land in total, scattered over a vast 2 million square kilometres of ocean. Located 3,500 kilometres north of Auckland,

the islands are just east of the dateline and it pays to take this into account when planning a trip. After a very boisterous and late Saturday night in Auckland, my husband and I dragged ourselves out of bed in a rather sorry state and made our way to the airport for a Sunday morning flight to the Cook Islands. Upon arrival in Rarotonga, we were amazed when we suddenly realised that it was still Saturday night there; it certainly gave new meaning to the term ‘Groundhog day’.

Travellers have been visiting the Cook Islands for centuries, with the first settlers arriving around 400 - 500 AD from French Polynesia. To this day, the ruins of numerous ancient marae (sacred sites) can be seen on many islands, and thus offer us a glimpse of the island’s early culture. In 1595, Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendana sighted Pukapuka. In 1606, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros visited Rakahanga where 500 people gathered to watch the strange ships he arrived in. The islands’ namesake, James Cook, visited the Southern Group in the 1770s. The ill-fated Captain William Bligh sighted Aitutaki in 1789; just days before the infamous mutiny on the Bounty. Shortly after Bligh, on April 28th, 1789, mutineer Fletcher Christian sighted Rarotonga. Christianity came to the Cook Islands in 1820 when John Williams of the London Missionary Society brought Tahitian missionary Papeiha to Aitutaki and then to Rarotonga. In terms of Government, the Cook Islands came under British protectorate in 1888; it then became annexed to New Zealand in 1900. In 1965, the islands returned to self-rule from New Zealand under the leadership of the much-loved Prime Minister Albert Henry.

RAROTONGA Pearl of the South Seas

Words by Claire Leonie Russell

Kia orana! From the moment you step off the plane at Rarotonga Airport, you’re struck with the reality that you really have arrived in a tropical island paradise. From the sound of a ukulele playing in the background, to the traditional flower leis (ei kaki), presented to you upon arrival, all give you an overwhelming sense of having arrived at a little slice of heaven. What better way to start to a holiday?


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From a visitor’s point of view, the Cook Islands are an exotic South Pacific pearl that should be treasured. With their sparkling, turquoise lagoons and sun-bleached palm tree-topped atolls, to lush, tropical vegetation and jagged volcanic peaks, it’s actually very hard to believe that this tropical island paradise is just a four-hour flight from New Zealand.

Luxury-lovers looking for the finer things in life will find plenty of options to pamper, amuse, and indulge themselves. Visitors looking for top quality accommodation are spoilt for choice with a range of options available, from boutique accommodation in individual bungalows right through to prestigious larger-scale resorts. The incredibly picturesque Muri Beach has some of the most luxurious accommodation options available in the area. The Pacific Resort Rarotonga is set amidst a stunning six acres of lush tropical gardens. Boasting traditional Polynesian architecture, the resort is the epitome of elegance. For the super-indulgent, restorative spa treatments are available on the beach. Sokala Villas boast uniquely-designed timber villas, many of which have their own private swimming pool. Rumours of Romance is reputed to have the most luxurious accommodation in Rarotonga, with its Ultimate Villa featuring its own movie theatre room complete with a 2.5m screen.

Close to Muri Beach, on the quieter south side of the island, is Titikaveka Beach. Visitors can choose from the Royale Takitumu Villas or the Little Polynesian. The Royale Takitumu Villas enjoy a beautiful setting and are the perfect restful getaway for stressed-out city dwellers. The Little Polynesian offers luxury Ares (villas), each with its own private beach-facing gazebo, daybed overlooking the white sandy beach, and spa tub under the stars.

From the Pacific Resort Rarotonga, right through to the Little Polynesian, these truly indulgent boutique resorts are all about luxury and pure relaxation. For those looking to take a romantic break to another level, many of these prestigious resorts are able to organise weddings, either on the beach or on a motu on the lagoon.

ABOVE: RUMOURS RESORT. RIghT: ROMANTIC RAROTONGA.


“From the Pacific Resort Rarotonga, right through to the

Little Polynesian, these truly indulgent boutique resorts

are all about luxury and pure relaxation.”

54 Pour l’amour de TRAVEL54 Pour l’amour de TRAVEL

If you’re looking for a feast fit for a king, Rarotonga has many fine dining options. Making the most of local ingredients, Tamarind House offers some great European cuisine. Windjammer Restaurant at the Crown Beach Resort is a great place to dine. With influences from Asia, Europe and the Pacific Rim; it’s truly an international taste sensation. With its traditional island menu, Vaima Restaurant & Bar offers diners a taste of genuine island flavour. Trader Jacks in Avarua is a favourite watering hole and eating place for both tourists and locals alike.

An Island Night is a must-do for any visitor who wants to get a taste of traditional Cook Island fare. Most of the major resorts hold an Island Night, at least once a week. Likely to be on the menu are: locally caught fish, eke (octopus), kumara, kuru (breadfruit), taro cooked in coconut milk, and ika mata (a local speciality of marinated raw fish). Food is cooked in a traditional underground oven (umu). Dinner is followed by a full cultural performance of music and dance. The dancers are reputed to be some of the best in the South Pacific. If you happen to be visiting Rarotonga during the month of April, you may be lucky enough to see the Dancer of the Year competition; this event is a major highlight of the island’s annual calendar.

Another Cook Island speciality is the strong tasting nono juice; the juice is made from locally-grown nono fruit. It’s a local elixir reputed to cure everything from fevers to asthma. It is, however, quite an acquired taste. I once made the mistake of going along to the Saturday market in Avarua with an empty plastic bottle to buy a litre of nono juice; just as all the locals do. Just a single drop was enough to put me off for the rest of my life. Later, I was told that there’s a watered down version available for tourists and that it’s important to remember that something that tastes so awful must be good for you!

The Cook Islands’ bustling capital Avarua, on the north side of Rarotonga, may not seem such a metropolis to overseas city dwellers, but to the locals it’s where it all happens. The long main street, Ara Maire Nui, running right along the waterfront, is lined with shops, cafes, art galleries and the main tourist office. Here you’ll find Rarotonga’s main market, Punanga Nui. It’s well worth a visit, particularly on Saturdays when you’ll find the biggest range of fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, craftwork, textiles and souvenirs.

For those in need of a little retail therapy, Rarotonga shopping includes a wide range of local arts and crafts, as well as the world-renowned South Pacific pearls. The Beachcomber Gallery in Avarua is one of the best arts and crafts galleries in Rarotonga where you’ll find an array of wood carvings, craftwork, paintings, jewellery and pearls.

The Cook Islands’ pearl industry is centred on the island of Manihiki; it produces pearls in all sorts of unique colours, ranging from ocean blue, peacock green, platinum and silver, through to rose. Ben Bergman, President of the Cook Islands Pearl Guild, advises that as buying jewellery is a very personal experience, visitors should take time to browse around and look at all the different types of pearl jewellery on offer. Pearl purchases should be accompanied by a certificate of authenticity/value. Specialist pearl retailers belong to the Cook Islands Pearl Guild and display a prominent Guild logo.

CLOCkWISE fROM TOP: AVARUA PORT; LOCAL CHILDREN; ISLAND

NIGHT; LOCAL ARTS & CRAFTS; TASTY SEAFOOD MEAL..

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For all you thrill-seekers out there, you’ll find game fishing to be an incredibly exhilarating way to experience a days fishing around the reef of the beautiful Cook Islands. With steep drop-offs outside of the reef circling Rarotonga, deep-sea fisherman will not need to travel far to find some really great spots. Depending on the season, fish include mahi mahi, tuna, wahoo, barracuda, sailfish and marlin. The Cook Islands Game Fishing Clubs in Rarotonga and Aitutaki are a great starting point if you’re looking for some local insight on the area. Fishing tour operators include Pacific Marine Charters, Seafari Charters and Akura Charters.

TOP (L-R): MURI BEACH; SNORKELLING.

BOTTOM (L-R): BEAUTIFUL WIGMORE’S WATERFALL; SCOOTERS ARE

A GREAT WAY TO EXPLORE THE ISLAND.

When it comes to land adventures, the Rarotonga Cross Island Trek is well worth the effort. Starting from the north side of the island and scaling up the middle via the needle, ‘Te Rua Manga’, you finish up on the south-side where a quick swim in the freshwater Wigmore’s Waterfall is the perfect way to cool off. You’ll need walking shoes, plenty of water and mosquito repellent. You can expect the trek to take you around three hours. It can be attempted on your own or as part of an organised tour; the tour is highly recommended because it is very easy to take a wrong turn. The most popular tour is that run by Pa Teuraa, a local herbalist and healer. As a tour guide,

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Pa Teuraa shares his broad knowledge of the island’s exotic

flora and fauna. For the less energetic, a scenic flight over Rarotonga is a great way to appreciate the picturesque beauty of the island. Air Rarotonga operates twenty-minute scenic flights around the island, taking in the inland-valleys and plantations, the lagoons, reef, and drop-off.

One of the great traditions visitors have the privilege of witnessing is the glorious singing that takes place at one of the many island churches every Sunday morning. The congregation arrives in their Sunday best, wearing decorative and skilfully woven hats made from coconut palm fibres. The islanders of Penrhyn are said to be the best hat weavers in the Cook Islands. Visitors are very welcome at church services, but please do remember to go dressed for the occasion.

Muri Beach is the perfect spot for those looking for a more leisurely pace. The stunning turquoise lagoon is fringed with white sandy beaches that stretch out to the reef where four motu (small islands) can be seen dotted across the horizon. The water is warm, clear, and teeming with brightly coloured fish and coral. This is a great spot to snorkel and a great place

to marvel at the magnificent array of beautifully coloured reef fish; included among them is the parrot fish, which you may even recognise on your plate later at dinner. The beach itself is the perfect spot to settle back, bury your toes in the sand and acclimatise yourself to the slow pace of island life. Alternatively, the Rarotonga Sailing Club, home to the excellent Sails Restaurant, organises weekend sailing races. Sea kayaks, windsurfers and snorkelling gear can be hired from Captain Tama’s AquaSportz Centre, which also operates daily cruises across the lagoon.

Scuba diving is spectacular just outside Rarotonga’s reef. Divers can expect to be treated to 4,000 metre drop-offs, excellent visibility (normally, no less than 30m), stunning shipwrecks, and for the lucky, sharks and eagle rays. Scuba diving can be organised through a number of different operations including Cook Island Divers, Dive Centre, Dive Rarotonga and Pacific Divers. During whale migration season (July through to October), a number of operators offer whale watching trips also. While staying in a beachfront bungalow, we were delighted to be treated to a display of humpback whales splashing around and leaping from the water just 150 metres from where we stood; this was an incredibly humbling experience.

With superb ocean views, the only swim up pool bar in Rarotonga, lagoon-side sundecks and friendly Polynesian hospitality, Club Raro Resort offers exceptional value for your next tropical island holiday. Arrive as a guest... leave as a friend.

E: [email protected] www.clubraro.co.ck


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For me, the highlight of any trip to the Cook Islands has to be a visit to Aitutaki. Flying into the island from Rarotonga, catching sight of the most breathtaking lagoon I had ever seen, dotted with idyllic islands and fringed by the azure-blue waters of the Pacific Ocean, was a sight I will never forget. The sheer beauty of the place made it the first choice for our honeymoon, but it’s the friendliness of the islanders that has kept us coming back for more.

Flying Air Rarotonga, many visitors make a day trip of the 40-minute flight from Rarotonga to Aitutaki. Those with a few days to spare certainly won’t regret taking time for a longer break in Aitutaki. Located north of Rarotonga, the sight of Aitutaki’s lagoon is one of the Cook Islands’ most beautiful physical features. Do remember to take mosquito repellent; the mosquitoes are particularly partial to a bite or two.

For those choosing to stay on the island, Aitutaki has two luxurious options; the Pacific Resort Aitutaki and the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort. The award-winning Pacific Resort Aitutaki offers beachfront suites and villas, private sundecks and an unparalleled level of service. This includes little personal touches such as having delicious cookies left on your pillow; these are almost too much after having been treated to a sumptuous dinner at the resort’s Rapae Bay Restaurant. Aitutaki Lagoon, Resort & Spa is located on its own private island within a stunning lagoon and offers both over water and garden thatched villas.

The Cook Islands are fast becoming a serious competitor to other high-end resorts found in the traditional South Pacific holiday destinations of Fiji and Tahiti.

GETTING THERE A direct flight from Auckland to Rarotonga takes just under four hours. Air New Zealand operates regular direct-flights from Auckland, Christchurch, North America (LA), and Fiji. Air New Zealand also connects flights from Australia, Asia and Europe.

Pacific Blue, operate direct weekly services out of New Zealand with connecting flights from Australia. Air Rarotonga, in partnership with Air Tahiti, operates weekly services from Papeete, Tahiti.

WHEN TO GO The Cook Islands enjoy a pleasantly warm and sunny climate all year round. The drier cooler season runs from April to November, with the warmer more humid season running from December to March.

GETTING AROUND Rarotonga is only 32 kilometres in circumference. You can reach most places by foot, island bus, or scooter. If you’re looking for a little more comfort, you can hire a car. To hire a car or motorbike in the Cook Islands, it’s essential that you obtain a driving licence from the police station in Avarua; this will cost you NZD$10.00. It’s not a complicated process by any means and your Cook Islands driving licence will make a pretty unique souvenir to keep in your wallet.

TOP: GLORIOUS BLUE WATERS OF AITUTAKI LAGOON.

LEfT: AERIAL VIEW OF AITUTAKI.

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PLDT Cook Islands

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