Parameters Effecting Trims

7/30/2019 Parameters Effecting Trims

1/29

FACTORS EFECTING TRIMS


2/29


3/29

Seam Binding Tape

Hook & Loop Fastenings

Eyelets & Laces Zip Fasteners

Buttons

Tack Buttons/snap Fasteners/Rivets


4/29

CLASSIFICATION - SEWING THREADS

Natural

Silk

Cotton

Linen

Manmade

Viscose

Polyester Polyamide (fire resistant)

Mixture of both (polyester &cotton) commonly used in the

industry


5/29


6/29

LABELS

The most expensive are woven to a narrow width with thenecessary information woven into them as JACQUARDdesign.

In bespoke garments the text is sometimes embroideredon the label using computer controlled embroiderymachine.

The least expensive are printed on a large area of woven,thermoplastic fabric and heat sealed to the narrow width

required.

A common compromise is to use jacquard weaving forconstant information and overprinting for variable details.


7/29

TYPES OF LABELS

STICKERS

HEAT - TRANSFER EMBOSSED

WOVEN LABEL


8/29

LACES

Originally made by hand & now they are in

variety of machine made.

Formed from twisted yarns, some are

embroideries on net or more solid fabric, andothers are knitted.

Some fray on one edge rather than being

neat on both sides & these must be neatened

during GC.

For max. decorative effect must be sewn to

the garment along the shape of the scallop.


9/29


10/29

Comes in wide range of shapes & are usually made

of plastics & metals.

Have a shiny , metallic finish, but some are nearlytransparent & some iridescent

Available in different colors.

Size varies from 2 mm 18 mm

Used mostly in party wear.

Automatic machines are also used to attach sequins

in companies.

SEQUINS


11/29

TYPES OF SEQUINS

Transparent Iridescent

Satin (Matte) Finish

Opaque Iridescent Hologram

Metallic

SEQUINS - Classification


12/29

TYPES OF SEQUINS


13/29

It is used in a limited no. of garmentapplications.

Any part of one side will fasten to any part

of the other it is used for adjustablefastenings such as closing cuffs & ankels.

E.g Velcro, consists of two woven polymidetapes, one covered with very fine hooks&

the other with very fine loops. When presstogether they adhere securely to eachother.

HOOK AND LOOP


14/29

EYELETS

Garments frequently require small holes

in them in the form of eyelets for a

variety of purposes such as-

prongs on belts,

for ventilation on waterproofs garments,

For the emergence of drawstrings at waist

or around hoods, and For use with lacing as a fastening


15/29


16/29

ZIPPERS

A principal item

Provide a neat, strong fastening ingarments.

Can be functional or decorative or both. The tape are most commonly woven & can

be of cotton, polyester, polyamide ormixtures.

Teeth of metal, preferably brass althoughaluminium may be used on cheap zips orplastic teeth


17/29

ZIPPERS - Types

Made to length with stop and slider;

Invisible, made to length with stop and

slider; Continuous with added stop and slider;

Made to length, open ended with slider;

Made to length, open ended with twosliders.


18/29


19/29

RIVETS

Are used for

decoration &

reinforcement on

garments, mainlyjeans, & may

consist of one or

two sections.

Both cases a

special machine is

required to attach.


20/29

INTERLINING

Woven & non-woven

Used to support, reinforce & control areasof garments such as collars, cuffs,

waistbands, hems, facings & the fronts ofjackets and coats.

Necessary is to select an interlining which,by virtue of its weight, construction & fiber

content, will perform satisfactory in thewearing & washing or dry-cleaning of thegarment


21/29

INTERLININGS


22/29

BUTTONS

Natural

wood,

horn,

bone, mother of pearl

Man Made Metal

Polyester Polyamide

Plastic

Natural buttons are expensive and non uniform
http://www.umei.com/metallic-buttons/metallic-buttons-2713.htm


23/29

Buttons can be for, two or without hole (Shank).

Being used from the early of 18th centuries for

fashion garment and later it used for higher

strength requirement. Brass, silver and ivory was used previously as

metallic button

Now it is available in various materials, finishes

and alloys


24/29

METALLIC BUTTONS-

CLASSIFICATION CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF MATERIAL USED

o Brass

o Zinco Aluminum

o Iron

o Other materials/ Alloys


25/29

METALLIC BUTTONS-

CLASSIFICATION CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF

MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE

o Die Casting

o Moulding

o Sheet Cutting


26/29

METALLIC BUTTONS-

CLASSIFICATION CLASSIFICATION ON THE BASIS OF FINISH APPLIED

o Antique/ Oxidized Finisho Nickel Finish

o Brass Finish

o Copper Finish

o

Combination of any two finishes


27/29

FINISHES APPLIED

ANTIQUE FINISH

ANTIQUE

SILVER

ANTIQUE

GOLD

ANTIQUE

COPPER

ANTIQUE

BRASS
http://www.baerfabrics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=14881%2DDZhttp://www.susanclarkeoriginals.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZM%2D2&cat=35http://www.susanclarkeoriginals.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZM%2D5&cat=35http://www.susanclarkeoriginals.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZM%2D6&cat=35http://www.susanclarkeoriginals.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZM%2D7&cat=35


28/29

Source: Pooja Buttons, Govindpuri

DIE CASTED BUTTONS

FINISH SIZE PROD. COST RETAIL COST

Antique

Brass

18 L Rs. 65 Rs. 100

Antique

Brass

20 L Rs. 70 Rs. 110

Antique

Brass

24 L Rs. 150 Rs. 200

Minimum Quantity: 50 gross

Lead Time: 8-10 days


29/29

Source: Aditya Agency, Govindpuri

SHEET CUTTING BUTTONS

FINISH SIZE PROD. COST RETAIL COST

Antique

(Aluminium

)

- Rs. 32/ Gross Rs. 60/ Gross

Antique

(Aluminium

)

22 L Rs. 25/ Gross Rs. 50/ Gross

Minimum Quantity: 100 gross Lead Time: 10-15 days

Parameters Effecting Trims

Documents