LEE MICHAELS

A C C E N T ! T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R A T I O N S ! S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 2

CELEBRATESPRING!

Fashion FavoritesWatchmaking:

The NextGeneration

Last Bid for Love

18_Accent Cover_Spring Summer 2011.qxp:ACCENT 3/12/12 11:19 AM Page 3

LEEM.indd C002LEEM.indd C002 3/22/12 12:33 PM3/22/12 12:33 PM

LEEM.indd P001LEEM.indd P001 3/22/12 12:33 PM3/22/12 12:33 PM

Ippolita.indd 1Ippolita.indd 1 3/10/12 11:32 AM3/10/12 11:32 AM

3

Dear Friendsyear. It is one of the most demanding, but satisfying, aspects of our business – ensuring that you, our valued customers, are alwayso! ered the most fashion-forward and value based collections mixed with truly one-of-a-kind and rare creations. We recently attended the Hong Kong Jewellery Show, the Basel [Switzerland] Fair, the Jewelers of America Show, and some of the most respected U.S. antique and vintage jewelry shows. It takes years of experience to evaluate what is new, but avoid what is so trendy that it has no fashion staying power; to discern what is valuable, but not unnecessarily exorbitant; and to recognize what is singu-lar, yet timeless. Our buyers have accumulated more than 100 years of combined experience in merchandising, buying, gemological exper-tise and knowledge, and negotiating for the best prices and exclusivity in our markets. We hone all those skills so you can have confi dence in Lee Michaels as your First Choice for a personal jeweler. When we speak of new, creative and progressive, we also apply those qualities to our brick and mortar stores. We doubled the size and redesigned our Lakeside Shopping Center store in the New Orleans metropolitan area so our customers would have an expanded shopping experience. We added a lavish estate and antique jewelry boutique, a spectacular Rolex corner, and more de-signer collections. We are currently relocating and redesigning our store in North Star Mall in San Antonio to similar standards, and anticipate an early summer 2012 grand re-opening. Our goal in all these e! orts is to continually provide you the Extraordinary Experience you have come to expect in a warm, welcoming and luxurious space. We want you to feel very special and at home with friends from the moment you walk through our doors to the moment you say goodbye. Not only do our brick and mortar stores demonstrate our commitment and appreciation to our customers, but so does our presence on Facebook and our website. We strive to give you that “wow” experience with every internet visit you make to us. We hope we have expressed our appreciation for your confi dence, your business and your friendship in the very best ways you can feel, touch and enjoy.

From the Lee Michaels family and ours to yours,

Lee Michael BergPresident & CEO

he spring season brings a sense of renewal, freshness and optimism. At Lee Michaels that means new jewelry and timepiece designs in innovative combinations of colors, precious gems, metals and materials. We look forward each year to visiting the design centers of the world to see and select the most captivating, superbly crafted and unique designs for theT

LEEM_.indd 3LEEM_.indd 3 3/8/12 12:07 PM3/8/12 12:07 PM

30

4

Contents spring/summer 2012

FOR

EV

ER

MA

RK

DIA

MO

ND

NE

CK

LAC

E.

CO

VE

R I

LLU

STR

ATI

ON

BY

DA

RIA

JA

BE

NK

O.

B AT O N R O U G E7560 CORPORATE BOULEVARD

225.926.4644MALL OF LOUISIANA, 225.766.6000

N E W O R L E A N SLAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER 504.832.0000

S H R E V E P O R T6605 YOUREE DRIVE, 318.222.2929

L A FAY E T T EACADIANA MALL, 337.981.8071

J A C K S O N , M S .NORTHPARK MALL, 601.957.6100

S A N A N T O N I O , T X .NORTHSTAR MALL, 210.541.9575

THE SHOPS AT LA CANTERA, 210.699.9494

P R E S I D E N T & C E OLEE MICHAEL BERG

C H I E F O P E R AT I N G O F F I C E RKENNETH S. GIKAS

V I C E P R E S I D E N TGREG JOHNSON

V I C E P R E S I D E N T & G E N E R A L M A N A G E RM A L L O F L O U I S I A N A

JOHNNY TATE

C H I E F F I N A N C I A L O F F I C E RJANE HARRINGTON

A D V E R T I S I N G M A N A G E R AMY GRAHAM

B O A R D O F D I R E C T O R SBRENDA BERG

CHAD BERGRYAN BERG

SCOTT BERG

P U B L I S H E D B Y T H E B J I FA S H I O N G R O U P

P U B L I S H E RSTU NIFOUSSI

E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O RHANS GSCHLIESSER

M A N A G I N G E D I T O RJILLIAN LAROCHELLE

P R O J E C T M A N A G E R LISA MONTEMORRA

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E RPEG EADIE

P R E S I D E N T A N D C E OBRITTON JONES

C H A I R M A N A N D C O OMAC BRIGHTON

Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depend-ing on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2012. Accent® is pub-lished by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856,203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; All Rights Reserved. The publishers accept no responsibilitiesfor advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies orother materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced with-out written permission of the publishers. Volume 10, Issue 1.Accent® is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in theU.S. Patent and Trademark office. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES3 Welcome Letter6 Recent Events 8 New Website

& Application 10 Accent Advisor12 History & Beauty:

The Estate Collection 14 Lakeside Gets Re-Vamped16 The Bold Choice18 The Perfect Element 20 The Resplendent Diamond22 It’s the Big Day 24 The Trendy Bride 28 Profile: John Hardy30 Designers: Marco Bicego 34 Designers: Penny Preville36 Red Carpet 42 Trends: Renewal 60 Perfect Gems 64 Food: Making Magic70 Travel: Eco-Immersion76 End Page: Last Bid for Love

WELCOME LETTER48 Watchmaking: Lititz Watch

Technicum 50 The Adorned Timepiece 52 Winders: Winding it Up56 Collecting: Time on His Side 58 Profile: Michele Watches

18_content+mastheads - Q6.qxp:ACCENT 3/22/12 12:57 PM Page LEE2


WHAT’S HAPPENING

F estivity, bash, ceremony, merriment, performance, revelry, gala, fete: all words synonymous with a celebration, and in 2011, celebrate we did! The fall brought us countless

reasons to celebrate with our communities, designers andcharitable organizations. Junior League soirées, a personalappearance for the fourth year by famed designer KonstantinoSioulas, trunk shows, toy drives, holiday parties, plus manymore events gave our friends and communities reasons tocome on in and celebrate with us!

Recent Events

Lissa Weston, Leslie Campbell, Leslie Berg, Scott Berg,Anita Bankston, Katie Cheatham

Larry and Alice Kronenberger

Catherine and Allen Ward

Baton Rouge Junior Leaguemembers at the Safari Soirée

6


7

Tim and Nan Barfi eld, Mimi Riche,Scott and Leslie Berg

Erin Knight Credo, Alana Robert andLauren Fournerat

Kim Dakin, Goldie Gildehaus,Gretchen Varnell

All smiles at the Safari Soirée

Ira Savoie, Ryan Berg

Rose Wilson, Barbara Webber

Employee of Lee Michaels and LCPL Bryce Kennedy delivering Toys for Tots

Al Steward, Jaquelene Robeck,Jessica Pattison, Konstantino Sioulas

Browsing designs by Konstantino

Alexandra Bautsch, Jody Foster

Browsing the latest of our designer collectionsHannah Mitchell at our HollyDays booth

Gathering together at the Junior League Safari Soirée

Desserts at theJunior League Safari Soirée


8

TECHNOLOGY

ANew Website & Application

8

t Lee Michaels we always strive to bring you, our customer, an Extraordinary Experience, and the new Lee Michaels website now does just that. We launched the site over the Thanksgiving

holiday, just in time for holiday shopping. From the start, the marketing and design team knew that the site required a balanced, yet vivacious product/content mix with a shopper-friendly design that lent itself to easy navigation to fi nd the perfect piece of jewelry. The new site has an emphasis on e-commerce, with more than 5,000 pages where shoppers can choose from thousands of items including jewelry, diamonds, timepieces and gifts. Customers can now also filter preferences, such as material type, price, gemstones and jewelry type. The site is also a great place to fi nd trends in jewelry and conversations surrounding jewelry and fashion. Check it out at www.LMFJ.com. We are also proud to announce the launch of our fi rst Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry app, available through the Apple Store for iPad owners. The Lee Michaels Diamond Buying Guide app allows customers to receive in-depth and interactive information on how to properly purchase diamonds and how to identify a high-quality diamond from other low-quality diamonds. It is a great tool for fi rst time diamond buyers and buyers wanting more information on the proper way to compare diamonds before making a selection. For those without an apple device, it is also located on our website at www.lmfj.com/diamondguide.php



ACCENT(ADVISOR)

10

HO

NO

RA

PEAR

LS,

MAT

THEW

CAM

PBEL

L LA

UR

ENZA

BR

ACEL

ETS

I KNOW WOMEN WHOWEAR FASHION JEWELRYLIKE BANGLES OR BOLDCUFFS, BUT BUY THESEPIECES AT CLOTHINGSTORES AS OPPOSED TOJEWELERS (EVEN IF THEYHAVE TO REPURCHASETHE PIECES WHEN THEYTARNISH). WHAT AREYOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? I think many women balancetrendy fashion jewelry that theydon’t expect to last foreverwith items that they cherish,wear often and want to last.Since a great bangle is a classicthat will be in style forever, it’sworth investing in somethingboth fabulous and enduring.

WHAT’STHEDIFFERENCEBETWEENANTIQUEJEWELRY ANDESTATEJEWELRY?“Estate” is a popular jewelry

label, but does not specify theperiod of manufacture. “Estate”is primarily used to describejewelry that is previously owned.

The term “antique” generallyapplies to jewelry items that areat least 100 years old, thebenchmark used by governmentofficials for duty-free importingof antiques.

For spring 2012, everythingold is new again, so considerboth of these options, or try re-setting one of your own familyheirlooms.

WHICH CLASSIC/TIMELESSPIECES ARE MOST LIKELYTO BECOME KEEPSAKES OR HEIRLOOMS? Those that hold their value, can be passed to the next generation, or the piece thatbecomes your signature. We have a client who is never (ever!) seen without a beautifulstrand of pearls that her husband bought her many years ago; whether at the grocerystore or at a gala, her pearls say it all. And that’s the key: finding a statement piece ofjewelry (“statement” need not mean “expensive”) and letting it become your trademark.We’ve noticed that when times are tougher and discretionary spending more limited,jewelry becomes even more personal and relationship-driven. If you buy only one itemthis year, make it special and enduring.

WHICH ITEMSSHOULD ICONSIDERBUYING THISSEASON?For both ladies and gents, a good watch is anabsolute must! If you can invest in only one greatpiece of jewelry, let it be a practical and stylishwatch to enjoy for many years. It should cross overinto any activity, and should dress up or down.

When you have more to invest, consider buyingboth a “dress” and a “sports” watch. But in theinterim, one great watch transcends numerousstyles and ventures!

Three other ideas for ladies: 1) a beautiful strandof pearls, either classic round or baroque (uneven)shaped; 2) diamond stud earrings, a true go-with-everything item to wear with denim or ball gowns;and 3) a necklace or pendant with personalmeaning, like your children’s names or initials, animportant date, a display of faith or spirituality. (Ifyou’ve ever noticed women constantly touchingtheir necklaces, it’s likely because they feel anemotional connection to the symbol.)

LEEM_Accent Advisor.qxp:LEEM_ 3/22/12 12:58 PM Page 10

TagHeuer.indd 1TagHeuer.indd 1 3/10/12 12:13 PM3/10/12 12:13 PM

12

FEATURE

History & BeautyThe Estate Collection

Estate room at our Bocage location in Baton Rouge, Louisianae, Louisiana

T he Estate collection at Lee Michaels was introduced in 2009 at our Bocage store in Baton Rouge, LA. It includes exquisite, one-of-a-kind pieces collected by Katheryne Mauldin, Certifi ed Gemologist Appraiser and the Manager of Estate

Jewelry. Katheryne has experience with over 20 years procuring jewelry throughout the world. We are excited to now have an additional estate room in our Lakeside Shopping Center location in Metairie, LA that opened in November 2011. Stop in either location to view our extensive collection of rare and unusual antique and estate jewelry dating from the mid-century Victorian period and the Art Deco period.

Q&A with Katheryne Mauldin

Q: What is your favorite era for antique jewelry and why?A: If I had to pick, my personal favorite era is the Victorian period (1837-1901). There is quite a variety of jewelry, because the period extends over so many years. Regardless of the style, the detail work and quality of the workmanship is just beautiful.

Q: Do you have a favorite all-time piece?A: That would depend on the day that you ask me. Every time I say, “This is the prettiest piece that I have ever seen,” I see another that I like as much or more.

Q: Where do you go to procure the antique pieces?A: Unlike new jewelry, antique pieces are bought one piece at a time. Sometimes we shop all day and only fi nd a few pieces that are right for the Estate Collection at Lee Michaels. I travel around the country to key antique shows and have dealers who will call me when they fi nd quality pieces they think I will like. This really is the key to building a fi ne collection. Like anything in life, it comes down to the relationships you build over years with people who can help you be successful.


13

Estate room at our Lakeside Shopping Center location in Metairie, Louisiana

14k multi-colored gold “Etruscan Revival” Victorian locket and chain with fi ne bead and wire work

c1860s - 1870s American$3,600

14kyg Victorian agate, opal, diamond and pearl earring and brooch set with black enamel work

c1870s American$6,500

14kyg Victorian diamond, coral andturquoise enamel locket bracelet

c1870s American$3,900


14

CELEBRATION

Lakeside Gets Re-Vamped

Alarge crowd gathered on the evening of Thursday, November 10, 2011 to celebrate the opening of our newly remodeled store in Lakeside Shopping Center. Guests were greeted with complimentary valet parking, escorted down a red carpet, and then guided to the grand entrance by custom fl oor graphics in the shape of our signature “little red box.” Cuisine by

Joel’s Catering featured petite fried green tomatoes, crabmeat timbale, New Orleans-style tru! es, and macaroons. The sounds of a jazz trio, featuring Joe Ashlar, fi lled the room as guests shopped and viewed special collections by Rolex, Lladro, Roberto Coin and Ippolita. A ribbon cutting ceremony featured the Berg family, company vice-presidents, and special guests,Brad Grundmeyer, Chairman of the Je" erson Chamber of Commerce, and John Young, Parish President. The event was a huge success and each guest received custom red and black candies as they left.

Pictured above from left to right: Leslie Berg, José Awill, Scott Berg, Brenda Berg, Lee Michael Berg, Glenn Wilson, Ryan Berg, Chad Berg, Brad Grundmeyer (President of Je" erson Chamber of Commerce), Ken Gikas, Johnny Tate


15

Violet Youngblood, Ventress Newport and Gayle Saizon

Debbie Belt, Creighton Belt, Stewart Niles

Brenda Berg, Randy Waesche,Bonita Waesche, Meaghen Waesche

Kenny and Mae Can

Ryan Berg, Chris Fuhrman

Harold Stokes, Leslie Stokes and Debbie Byrd

Lee Michael Berg, Donna Duhon, Sid Duhon

Kerry Boutte, Buddy Butler, Leslie Stokes,Harold Stokes, Ti! a Boutte Allison Ashy and Leslie Berg

Je! Cotten, Jr. with Rolexshowcasing new styles

Ribbon cutting Champagne toast

Lakeside’s new storefront

Macaroons by Joel’s Catering

Guests received the red carpet treatment


16

Konstantino sterling silver and pearl necklacewith mother of pearl stations $925

Konstantino sterling silverwide bangle bracelet $1,650


17

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin fi nish multi-circle ring $2,200

The

BOLD Choice

David Yurman sterling silver and 18kyghammered curb chain necklace $3,900


18

Ippolita 18kyg and semi-precious stone braceletsstarting at $2,900

Gurhan 24kg blue topaz, one-of-a-kind necklace $14,900


19

The Perfect

ELEMENT

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin fi nish pearl and diamond braceletsstarting at $1,650

Marco Bicego 18kyg satin fi nish pearl earrings$2,000

18kyg black mother of pearl or white mother of pearl,rutilated quartz and diamond pendant $1,850 each


20

The Resplendent

DIAMOND

18kwg Roberto Coindiamond fashion ring

$11,400

18kwg certifi ed diamond pendant$8,775

18kwg diamond pendant$6,800

14kwg diamond cluster earrings withprincess cut center

$2,775

14kwg diamond cluster earringswith round center

$2,950

18kwg round diamond drop earrings$8,750


JohnHardy.indd 1JohnHardy.indd 1 3/10/12 11:34 AM3/10/12 11:34 AM

22

WEDDINGS

It’s theBig Day

Mr. and Mrs. Scott Sinitiere (Monique Chabaud)Baton Rouge, LA • May 14, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Nicholas Holland (Amanda Roddy)Waggaman, LA • October 6, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Jeremy Comardelle (Tara Blake)Orlando, FL • December 28, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Bob Simon, Jr. (Ashley Ard)Hammond, LA • October 29, 2011


23

Mr. and Mrs. Steven Smith (Megan Burt)Brookhaven, MS • October 8, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Kyle Wassom (Kelli Neer)Baton Rouge, LA • January 8, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. Jason White (Arcy Muñoz)Las Vegas, NV • December 31, 2011

Mr. and Mrs. William Bowdon IV (Megan Poole)Bossier City, LA • May 7, 2011


24

Unique Facets

Modern

Left to RightCrisscut 18kg .98ct emerald cut center $12,725

Harry Kotlar platinum 3.00ct cushion cut center $85,000Crisscut 18kg 1.24ct round center $18,900

Michael M. “Princess Collection” handcrafted 18kg. Center diamond not included $11,620


25

The Trendy

BRIDE

Cushion

Vintage

Left to RightHenri Daussi platinum .48ct. $6,425

Henri Daussi 18kg .76ct. center $6,875Henri Daussi 18kg .51ct. center $4,600

18kg sapphire and diamond antique reproduction. Center stone not included $3,000

14kg 1.11ct center antique reproductioneast-west marquise $9,625


The most passionate dancein the most expressive porcelain.Balance, movement and precision with all the power of the striking colors in the Lladró palette.A porcelain handcraftedat the Lladró workshopsin Valencia - Spain.

PASSION

Passionate Tango 14 1/2" x 14 1/2" Limited edition of 3,000



PROFILE

SCALINGBACK

First introduced in 2009, on the anniversary of John Hardy’s 20th yearin business, the Naga collection tells the Balinese myth of the dragonand the pearl. As legend has it, the dragon would leave his volcano

each night and dive down to the bottom of the sea to visit his love, the pearl.At sunrise, as he burst from the water and returned home to the volcano, thewater dripping from his scales fertilized rice fields across the land andbrought prosperity to the Balinese.

Now, for the Chinese Year of the Dragon, John Hardy head designer andcreative director Guy Bedarida has dramatically expanded the 2012 Nagacollection with more pieces featuring this mythical symbol of good fortune,prosperity and success.

Like the dragon in the myth, one of John Hardy’s missions is to helpthe Balinese land and people flourish. The company views itself as acollaborative effort between designers and artisans, and believes that “abusiness can prosper while respecting people and nature.” Their “GreenerEveryday” policy signifies an ongoing commitment to environmentalconservation, which includes the planting of bamboo, rice and even theblack palm wood used in some of its men’s designs. The brand’s HongKong headquarters are completely green, and its Mambal, Bali compoundis a village unto itself, composed of traditional bamboo and mudstructures, rice paddies and an organic farm that provides lunch for theentire workforce there.

The Naga collection, like all John Hardy collections, is handcrafted in Baliby these talented native artisans, some of whom have previously served asjewelers to Balinese kings. Some pieces feature full dragons or dragonheads, while others showcase a more abstract dragon scale motif. Craftedfrom sterling silver, yellow gold and an assortment of precious and semi-precious gems, the collection’s cuffs, bracelets, rings, necklaces and earringsare rich with detail, inside and out.

JOHN HARDY REVISITS ITS NAGACOLLECTION WITH FIERY NEWDESIGNS TO USHER IN THE YEAR OFTHE DRAGON. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

28

“I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE WEARERS OF THE NAGACOLLECTION WILL ENJOY LOVE, PROSPERITY AND LUCK.”

–GUY BEDARIDA, HEAD DESIGNER

LEEM_Profile_John Hardy.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 2:56 PM Page 28


DESIGNERS

WARM GOLD AND SATURATEDSEMI-PRECIOUS GEMS BRING MARCO

BICEGO’S SPRING COLLECTIONTO LIFE. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GETTING PERSONALWhat are you reading? I just bought a new apartment in Venice, so I’ve been looking to the shelter magazines for design inspiration. What are you wearing? I try to wear pieces that are relaxed and casualand fit into my everyday life—mostly Armani. What are you eating? Anything with fresh local ingredients and always vino!Where are you traveling? Basel, Switzerland to the jewelry fair todebut my newest collections.

COLOR POPS

In the 12 years since launching his collection, one thing has remainedunchanged for jewelry designer Marco Bicego: his love of gold. “Almostall of our collections are crafted from 18 karat yellow gold. It’s intrinsic

to our brand DNA,” says the Italian native with goldsmithing in his family’shistory. His loyalty to the metal makes for a smooth transition betweencollections and pieces that can always be mixed, matched and layered.

“I don’t really see jewelry as a trend,” Bicego tells us. “Each season ourcustomers gravitate towards certain [different] silhouettes, but there arealways constants in jewelry. It’s about a woman’s connection to a piece—anemotional feeling.”

This spring, the designer is excited to introduce his Africa collection,filled with long layering necklaces and colorful gems, which Bicego cites asabsolute must-haves for any woman looking to update her jewelrywardrobe. He has long been drawn to the beauty of Africa and was inspiredby unexpected natural elements, from baobab seeds to the stratified lavaof Kilimanjaro. “I was taken by the fascinating imperfections of yellow-goldjewels, similar to the imperfections found in the tribal jewels worn byAfrican women. The hand-engraved gold finishes generate warmth thatevokes the colors of the sub-Saharan land.” Bicego is an avid traveler andoften names his collections—Africa, Jaipur, Paradise, etc.—after thedestinations that inspire them.

When he’s not busy dreaming up new designs, Bicego relishes thechance to spend time with his wife and children, play in his local soccerleague and hunt for mushrooms. He can frequently be found outdoors,exploring his surroundings and searching for new ideas in “the beauty I findin everyday life, colors in nature and architectural design.” And of course,he adds, “I always try to imagine what my clients want to wear next!”

The bold spheresand jewels of theAfrica collectionare tangible andpronounced, yetremarkably light.

30

LEEM_Designers_Marco Bicego.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 2:56 PM Page 30

The Stimulus The Response

The Norman SilvermanBridal Collection


BECAUSE A STAR DESERVES FOUR MORE. At the four-star Renaissance® Baton Rouge, you’ll discover a wedding venue as extraordinary as the day you are celebrating. Elegant surroundings. Spacious ballrooms for up to 600 guests. Skilled, creative planners to ensure your event is a dream come true by making everything perfectly yours. Every flower. Every morsel. Every song. Every moment. After all, we’ve designed it for the most important wedding ever… yours.

TO CONFIRM YOUR DREAM WEDDING CALL (225) 215-7000 7000 Bluebonnet Boulevard Baton Rouge, LA 70810 renaissancehotels.com


Think Of Citrus As A Great Restaurant With A Fine Hotel Attached.

1 5 0 E A S T H O U S T O N S T R E E T , S A N A N T O N I O , T X | 2 1 0 . 2 2 7 . 9 7 0 0 | W W W . H O T E L V A L E N C I A - R I V E R W A L K . C O M

C i t r u s R e s t a u r a n t o f f e r s a f r e s h t w i s t o n d i n i n g i n s i d e H o t e l V a l e n c i a o n S a n A n t o n i o ’ s f a m e d R i v e r W a l k .

©2010 Hotel Valencia Corporation. Valencia® is a registered trademark of Newhall Land & Farming Company and is licensed to Hotel Valencia Corporation. The Valencia logo is a registered service mark of Eland Investment Corporation.

E x e c u t i v e C h e f , J e f f e r y B a l f o u r

No o!ense to typical hotel restaurants, but Citrus is no typical hotel restaurant. Our daily menu is equal parts inspiring, tantalizing and deliciously

innovative. We search San Antonio’s local markets and provisioners for the freshest and finest ingredients. All so that you may enjoy a meal

worth talking about and worth coming back for. Who knows, you might even choose to stay the night so you can dine here again sooner.


World renowned for its elegance,innovation and unique attention todetail, Penny Preville jewelry has

been worn by fashionable women from JackieOnassis to Nicole Kidman to Blake Lively. Here, anexclusive interview with the designer. How did you first get interested injewelry design?As a little girl, I’d go into New York City everySunday to visit my grandmother (Adele Preville, aself-described “Hungarian Gypsy”) at her ParkAvenue apartment. It was filled with amazingartwork: Chinese screens, Buddhas, rare art pieces.But what intrigued me most was her jewelry box,overflowing with Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels:exquisite pieces from different eras that mygrandfather bought her. I would touch them, trythem on, dream about them. My other grandmotherwas an artist (she painted Limoges china) as wasmy mother. Ultimately, I chose a major in fine arts. Iloved art history, re-living different eras.Describe your jewelry and the process tocreate it.Words that come to mind are intricate, romantic,

elegant, timeless. I’m all about the detail:beading, engraving, twisting, layering, texture…

My jewelry is made by artisans here in NewYork City: we start with an original model andmost of the work is done by hand: engraving,stone setting, polishing, finishing. Depending onthe piece, the process can take a few days to afew months.What inspires your designs?Travel. Nature. Architecture. Paintings. Fabrics.Lifestyle. Different civilizations (Egyptian,Byzantine, Ancient Greek, Russian…)How would you describe your personalstyle? What are your favorite jewelry pieces?There are two sides to me: very driven andpractical, but also romantic, very much a girly-girl.My favorite pieces include a garland ring, a widescroll-y diamond cuff that I wear for black tieevents, and a thin diamond bangle that I weareveryday. (It’s part of my body!)

I also love a Harry Winston ring with diamondsfrom the 1930s that my grandmother wore, and ablue star sapphire that my husband’s mother gotfrom her mother…

You work with your husband and twosons: how hard is it to combine businessand family? It can be challenging! Fortunately, we haveseparate roles: I do the design/creative and Jay(who started the business with me) managesfinancial/operations. Our two sons Skyler (32)and Derek (28) are learning all aspects and willhopefully find their niche. I didn’t expect the boysto join us: growing up, they were into sports andshowed little interest in the business. What are the key jewelry looks for 2012?Long chains, statement earrings, bangles andcuffs to mix and match, collectibles, differentstones, blackened metals and lots of color(especially blues!). I also believe in the mysticalpowers of certain stones—for strength or forprotection. What does a woman’s jewelry say about her?It’s reflects her style and individuality; it providesinsight into who she is as a person: spiritual,sentimental, practical... In fact, I love watching awoman select jewelry: when she finds the perfectpiece, it’s magical; it brings out something in her soul.

34

Signature Style

DESIGNERS

PENNY PREVILLE’S JEWELRY IS AS FEMININE ANDFABULOUS AS SHE IS! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

LEEM_Designers_PennySignature Style.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:00 PM Page 34

RCoin.indd 1RCoin.indd 1 3/10/12 12:12 PM3/10/12 12:12 PM

36

Though the Guess model-turned-actress is always striking, Amber Heard truly smoldered

at the SAG Awards. Her fitted black satin gown epitomized covered-up sexy, while sparkly

diamond studs and metallic smoky eyes added just the right amount of shimmer.

Zac Efron and Michelle Pfeiffer sure made a good looking pair at the New Years Eve premiere.

Yellow gold and pink tourmaline chandelier earrings lit up Pfeiffer’s face and helped prepetuate

that youthful glow. We don’t know how she does it.

For Showtime’s Emmy Nominee Reception at the Mondrian Los Angeles, Claire Danes chose

pavé diamond drop earrings that popped against the silvery threads of her dress. With a confident

RED CARPET

Blonde BombshellsWITH LIGHT LOCKS AND HEAD-TO-TOE STYLE,

WE’D GIVE THESE STUNNING CELEBS AN AWARD ANY DAY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

AMBER HEARD ZAC EFRON & MICHELLE PFEIFFER CLAIRE DANES

HEA

RD

AN

D P

FEIF

FER

WEA

R H

. ST

ERN

. D

ANES

WEA

RS

MCL

.

LEEM_Red Carpet_Blonde Bombshells - Q6.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:02 PM Page 36

smile, flushed cheeks and dewey décolletage, the nominee for Best Actress in a TV Drama looked

like a winner long before they called her name.

Stacy Keibler knows how to accessorize. Adorable arm-candy aside, the former Ravens

cheerleader still looks sensational in the old purple and black, topped off with teardrop earrings,

stacked bangles and a notice-me cocktail ring. As if we wouldn’t have noticed her without it.

All tassel, no hassle! Katherine Heigl’s blue sapphire and black rough-cut diamond earrings lent

an effortless glamour to her gown at the 39th Annual American Music Awards. Paired with a

sparkly strap and matte red lips, the look recalled old Hollywood at its best.

Nothing amps up a little black dress like a statement necklace. At the L.A. premiere of The

Mighty Macs, Marley Shelton chose this blackened beauty to elevate her outfit from ho-hum to

yum! Kelly Osbourne, Kate Mara and Kristin Cavallari have recently been spotted in identical

designs; you can bet that style-savvy ladies everywhere are following suit.

37

KEI

BLE

R W

EAR

S M

CL.

HEI

GL

WEA

RS

SUTR

A. S

HEL

TON

WEA

RS

AMR

APAL

I.

STACY KEIBLER & GEORGE CLOONEY KATHERINE HEIGL MARLEY SHELTON

LEEM_Red Carpet_Blonde Bombshells - Q6.qxp:LEEM_ 3/21/12 2:21 PM Page 37


ALL JAZZ MASTERS EVENTS ARE AT 7PM & 9PM | TICKET PRICES ARE $45 & $25 MANSHIP THEATRE | DOWNTOWN BATON ROUGE | 225.344.0334 | MANSHIPTHEATRE.ORG

www.artsbr.org225.344.8558

April 26 | TERENCE BLANCHARD & PONCHO SANCHEZ

Cubano Be! Cubano Bop! Tribute to Chano Pozo & Dizzy Gillespie

2011-2012 SEASON

Get your tickets

today for the last

2 concerts of this

season!

May 17 | PATTI AUSTIN Grammy-award-winning Jazz vocalist

Special thanks to the River City Jazz Masters Series sponsors:

The River City Jazz Coalition thanks: Verge and Cheri Ausberry, C.J. Blache and Sherri McConnell, Gary and Joyce Dennis, Maria and Brian Despinasse II, Leo and Gwendolyn Hamilton, Tim and Stacia Hardy, Dr. Antoine Keller and Allison Chauvin, Cornelius and Karen Lewis, Drs. Jamel and Nicolette Martin, Ronald and Belinda Mason, The John and Virginia Noland Fund,

Albert and Roberta Sam and The Josef Sternberg Memorial Fund.




There are many ways to reenergize: yoga and meditation, a day at thespa, a cruise to wherever! But this year, it seems like everyone is talkingabout adding gemstone jewelry to that list of natural mood elevators.

From fashion insiders to celebrities and their stylists, it’s being recognized as ade rigueur accessory. As jewelry lovers, we know it’s beautiful...so why such bigbuzz now? Part of it has to do with the trending fashion colors this year—all ofwhich are available in gemstones—being touted as über uplifting. But equallyimportant, it seems, are the many new jewelry collections fashioned aroundexhilarating non-traditional stone cuts, as well as gems that are either new tothe market or haven’t been widely used for quite some time.

COLORS TO CHEER ABOUTWhen “Tangerine Tango” was chosen by the Pantone Color Institute as theColor of the Year, it set the stage for 2012 to be a year of sunny shades in bothfashion and jewelry. Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s executive director, says, “It’sattention-getting, for sure, and surprisingly flattering,” alluding to the realitythat not all women have a zest for the color orange—despite the many tonesof tangerine gracing dozens of spring runways.

“But orange must be a new addition to every woman’s closet this year. Ifyou’re not daring enough to wear it as a dress, pants, or jacket, wear this colorin accessories—especially jewelry. You need at least one strong statementpiece with vibrant orange gems. I myself didn’t have any orange jewelry, but Iwent shopping as soon as I saw all the orange lighting up the fashion shows.Be the woman your friends look at. Don’t be afraid to let the adventure ofchildhood abandon come back into your life.”

Three other important citrus shades for spring and summer, says Eiseman,for fashion and its gemstone jewelry complements, are “Solar Power” yellow,“Cabaret” pink and “Margarita” green. “Fashion designers are also showing alot of blue and taupe, but they’re toned down. The blue is fresh without beingtoo out-there. All the blue gems are perfect accents [for each other], and greatfor blue tone-on-tone layering.” The other important classic neutrals for springand summer are both in the taupe family—what Pantone calls “Starfish” and“Driftwood,” so gray is taking a backseat, at least until fall. Shades in the brownfamily are “perfect when paired with any of your bright, attention-gettinggemstone jewelry,” adds Eiseman.

SOME REALLY COOL CUTSWhile classic rounds, cushions, squares and the like continue to be important,so, too, are the less conventional cuts, especially doublets, slices, roughs androse cuts. Veteran actress Regina King, one of this year’s celebrity models atthe 2012 American Gem Trade Association’s prestigious Spectrum jewelryawards, says, “It’s important for people to be open to considering gemstonesand cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” The current star of TV’s hit policedrama Southland adds, “There is so much artistry out there in contemporarygemstone jewelry—you really see that in some of the unusual cuts.” DOUBLETS These are basically two-layered gem designs, with one gem onthe bottom and the second stone laid over it, creating a very distinctive look.Says Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jeweler’s Resource Bureau: “Thanks toclever gem cutters, designers are combining translucent rose cuts and gemslices with complementary opaque stones.”SLICES Typically, these gems are 2-D in form, with flat sides and bottoms. The

RENEWAL!THE SEASON’S FRESHEST COLORS,

NEWEST CUTS AND GOTTA-HAVE-’EMGEMS WILL ENERGIZE YOUR JEWELRY

BOX. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

TRENDS

Left: Cocktail rings from Roberto Coin’s diamond-accented, 18K goldHaute Couture collection, in green garnet, peridot and blacksapphires; yellow topaz and citrine; and pink sapphires.

42

LEEM_Trends_Renewal.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:05 PM Page 42

MarcoBicego.indd 1MarcoBicego.indd 1 3/10/12 11:40 AM3/10/12 11:40 AM

flatness allows light to pass through the piece, much likenatural light shining through a stained glass window.Sometimes the sliced gem is polished on both sides,depending on the designer’s individual vision.Helena Krodel, director of media and specialevents for Jewelers of America, says, “Thinkabout gemstone-slice earrings if you wantsomething lightweight and, at the sametime, very flattering; they bring light andcolor near the face.”ROUGH CUTS These asymmetricallyshaped gems—also called “raw”—are, for themost part, three dimensional, almostsculptural. They have an inherent, organic beautybecause they aren’t precision-cut to mathematicperfection. Each stone is, therefore, one of a kind.Vicente Agor, owner of an eponymous jewelry lineand president of the Contemporary Jewelry DesignGroup, says, “If you want jewelry that’s handcrafted andauthentic, with irregularities inspired by nature, designswith rough cuts are a great choice.”ROSE CUTS Steeped in history, various forms of rose cutshave been around since the mid-16th century. The gems, usuallycircular in outline, have a flat base and a crown composed oftriangular facets in symmetrical arrangement, which rise to form a point. Ifyou’re familiar with the oval briolette, that’s one variation of the rose cutand a favorite among contemporary designers who love color. This year,rose-cut sapphires—especially in pink, green and blue—are showing upeverywhere.

...AND SOME REALLY HOT GEMSBarbara Wheat, executive director of the International Colored GemstoneAssociation, tracks colored gemstone popularity worldwide. Here, shepoints to five gems she sees trending—especially in light offashion’s leading color choices, which, she says, likelymeans these gems will get even morepopular as we progressthrough 2012.A TOP TANGERINEFIRE OPAL: Theseradiant orange-redgemstones arerenowned in legendand lore for theirpositive effect on thepsyche. That said, youmay have to pay the pricefor that profound sensation ofpeace and harmony! Often thecost of these expressive and fierygems is determined by the play of color,body color and transparency. “Fireopal is really popular in Asia,” saysWheat. With tangerine as this year’s“Color ot the Year,” it will likely getstronger here, too. Other favorites: Mandaringarnet, carnelian, orange sapphire, spinel,

spessartite garnet, red agate.A GO-TO GREEN ZULTANITE: This

transparent diaspore gem, foundonly in Turkey, hasn’t been usedmuch in jewelry—until now.

With its inherently interestingcolor-change properties—from kiwi green tochampagne brown toraspberry pink—it’scertainly out of theordinary, and the perfectchoice for anyone lookingfor something unique or a

true conversation starter.Other favorites: chrysoprase,

green agate, peridot, green opal,green jade, green quartz, green

amethyst, green garnet, greentourmaline.

A PRIMARY YELLOW CITRINE: “Lately,citrine has been particularly popular, both for itscolor and the variety of cutting styles being used

on it,” says Wheat. With its sunny hue and oftenaffordable prices, citrine has recently captured the

fancy of a growing number of typically high-enddesigners, many mixing it with a range of orange andpink stones on a single piece of jewelry for a kind of

overall neutral effect. Other favorites: topaz, golden beryl,chrysoberyl, yellow moonstone, yellow sapphire.

A “NEW” BLUE AQUAMARINE: One of the most in-vogue gems right now is aquamarine. Hardly new,

March’s birthstone is increasingly being spotlightedin designer collections in every cut imaginable. “Yes,

aquamarine is in a revival period, especially hot in largesizes with good color saturation. I’ve also seen an increasing

number of modern brides choosing aquamarine for theirengagement ring center stone,” says Wheat. The lucid

color—from the light blue of the sky to the deep blue of the sea—captivates. Other favorites: chalcedony, moonstone, labradorite,

sapphire, Iolite, Tanzanite, blue topaz.A PERFECT PINK CHALCEDONY: A treasured favorite of

the ancient world, chalcedony is being featured more andmore by trendsetting contemporary artisans. While it’s certainly

one of the perfectly beautiful pinks, chalcedony iswell liked in its blue and green varieties, too.“Translucent chalcedony in all three shades is

hot—particularly big, smooth cabochons,” saysWheat. Other favorites: pink tourmaline, rubellite,

pink sapphire and raspberry quartz.

44

Top: Zultanite and diamond necklace byStephen Webster.

Bottom: Bracelets from Ippolita’s Silk Roadcollection in 18K gold, featuring peach moonstone,aquamarine, gray and white moonstone, mother of

pearl, champagne citrine, labradorite and bluetopaz doublet

EVERYONE ISTALKING ABOUT

ADDING GEMSTONEJEWELRY TO THELIST OF NATURAL

MOOD ELEVATORS.

LEEM_Trends_Renewal.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:05 PM Page 44


Natural DiamondNot Synthetic

Color Grade

E

Clarity Grade

VS1

Cut Grade

Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry NumberGIA 16354621

Carat Weight

1.53

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

A GIA report is certainty from the source.

As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System,™

GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientifi c.

A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality.

Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who o! er them. www.4cs.gia.edu

Gia.indd 1Gia.indd 1 3/10/12 11:23 AM3/10/12 11:23 AM

WATCHESACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2012

CO

UR

TESY

LIT

ITZ

WAT

CH

TEC

HN

ICU

M

LEEM_WATCHES_Section Cover.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:07 PM Page 47

FOCUS: WATCHMAKING by Karen Alberg Grossman

The first thing one notices upon entering the stately stone buildingnestled in the rolling hills of Lititz, Pennsylvania (a town with astrong watchmaking tradition) is the magnificent brass clock in the

lobby. One soon learns it was crafted totally by hand by students in thisRolex-sponsored watch school, under the direction of its esteemedprincipal Herman Mayer.

Mayer is a certified watchmaker with tremendous pride in, andrespect for, the Swiss watchmaking tradition. His goal is to developindependent retail watchmakers who are technically exceptional, ofcourse, but who are also business-savvy, service-oriented, personable,well rounded and creative, a tall order to say the least. “The watchmakerof today needs to be compatible and in sync with the spirit of the high-end watch culture,” Mayer maintains.

His intense two-year program, establishedin 2001, is fully funded by Rolex (but totallyseparate from the Rolex Service Centerupstairs in the building). Mayer is personallyresponsible for creating and updating thecurriculum, which is also used at watchmakingschools in Seattle and Oklahoma. It features sixmain areas of training: history/culture, micro-mechanics, mechanical movement diagnostics

and repair, electronic movement diagnostics and repair, customer serviceand case/bracelet diagnostics and repair.

The school is small and selective, with a capacity for only 28 students(there are currently 12 first year students and 13 in their second year). It’san intense eight-hour school day (7:30 to 4:00, with a 30 minute lunchbreak) and requires much outside reading and research. According toMayer, most students are highly motivated and even talk watchmaking intheir free time. “We emphasize that whatever they don’t learn in these twoyears, they pay for later on…”

Of utmost importance to Mayer, who interviews and tests 70 to 80applicants each year looking for various skills, from strategic reasoningto social competence, is abstract thinking. “Because often in a fine

watch,” he explains, “you can’t diagnoseproblems just visually. You need to analyzebased on input and output of the mechanism:it’s behaving a certain way so the problemmust be this or that. You can’t always see theproblem because many watches are built inlayers, so the movements might be covered,or else just too small.”

Mayer admits that among his greatestfrustrations is a decline in abstract thinking

LITITZ WATCH TECHNICUM: TEACHING WATCHTHINK

A REMARKABLE SCHOOL THAT INSTRUCTS THE ART, SCIENCE

AND SOUL OF SWISS WATCHMAKING.

48

LEEM_WATCHES_Watchmaking.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:09 PM Page 48

skills among young people over the past decade. “I’m sorry to say this,but in many applicants, these skills have gone down the drain. It’s a veryvisual world these days; we rely on computers to do everything soyoung people don’t learn to think for themselves. But in a watchmakingcurriculum, abstract thinking skills are essential. It’s all about deductivereasoning, which is no longer taught in school…”

Why are these skills so critical? “Because evenif the student has worked on hundreds of watches,the next movement that comes along might betotally different than anything he’s experienced. Soit’s not a matter of simply learning to piece thepuzzle together: students need to understand whatthe parts do and how they interact and whether ornot the watch is worth repairing. Of course it’s rarewhen you can’t fix it at all (e.g. serious salt waterdamage where parts are caked together), becauseeven if spare parts are not available, we can alwaysmake the parts. That’s what we teach them in the‘micromechanics’ segment of the program.”

According to Mayer, his ideal applicant is mid-to late 20s (the actual age range is 17 to 45 andmostly male; there are only one or two females perclass), in a second career but with some previousexposure to watchmaking. “If they’ve had someexposure, at least they know what the profession isabout: having to deal all day long with these tinyparts, the responsibility of working on suchvaluable pieces. Of course, there are always somewho drop out because it’s too stressful…” Recentapplicants have included bankers and real estatebrokers, some from major cities. “People havemore appreciation for job security when it’s a second career,” he explains.“And watchmaking certainly offers job security: all of our graduates whowant jobs get them.”

Beyond technical expertise (which Mayer believes can be taught),

the most important trait is the desire—the passion—to repair and buildwatches. Also necessary is the ability to communicate. Explains Mayer,“It’s essential that we teach students how to network: with peers, withmentors, with superiors, so they’re not left alone with importantdecisions. In fact, I’m working on making this an active component of

the curriculum.” On a personal note, Mayer grew up in

Würzburg, Germany; his university studies focusedon philology and teaching. But at some point, hislove of watches inspired him to study watchmaking,which led him to servicing jobs in the States, andultimately to Lititz.

In addition to restoring watches, Mayer is acollector: he wears a different watch every day andfavors those that combine technical precision with abeautiful finish. So dedicated is Mayer to the Lititzprogram that he even lets his students work on hispersonal watches (excluding vintage handmadepieces, of course!). His first expensive watch was infact a classic Rolex. Does he still have it? “Of course:Rolex watches are forever…”

His most meaningful watch is one he inheritedfrom his father. “When my dad returned from WWII,the economy was down so he drove a taxi onweekends. An American soldier who couldn’t affordthe fare gave him his automatic Cyma. I wore it everyday for years but at some point, it was difficult to getreplacement parts because their factory had burneddown. Observing the watchmaker adapting spareparts by hand was my first exposure to the craft andits artistry, which triggered my lifelong passion.”

Mayer’s best advice to graduating students? “Remember to take theloupe off on occasion and engage in meaningful, positive dialogue withmembers of your professional environment. You need to actively live theexciting and ever-evolving watchmaking culture you are part of.”

49

“Nobody buysa fine watch justto tell time…” —Herman Mayer

LEEM_WATCHES_Watchmaking.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:09 PM Page 49

50

TAG Heuer Formula 1, 36MM diamond dial with diamond bezel. Stainless steel case, white ceramic,

steel and gold bracelet$3,100

MICHELE Deco Day, 35MM gold plate,diamond dial and silicone grommet strap

$915

Bell and Ross BR S white ceramic Phantom,39MM diamond dial with diamond bezel

$7,300


51

The Adorned

TIMEPIECE

OMEGA De Ville Hour Vision,41MM stainless steel with black date dial

$7,900

TAG Heuer Aquaracer automatic Calibre 16 Chronograph, 42MM stainless steel case, steel and gold

bracelet and gold bezel$3,300

Bell and Ross BR 01-92 Heritage,42 MM black dial with natural leather strap

$4,800


FOCUS: WINDERS by Laurie Kahle

Like early automatic wristwatches designed to eliminate the need forwinding, watch winders originated as practical items to keeptimepieces ready for action at all times. Aside from the convenience

factor, winders can also extend the life of a watch movement. Theyensure that essential lubricants are evenly distributed throughout themechanism, and reduce wear and tear on the crown winding system bylimiting the need for resetting. But as watch collecting becomes a

consuming passion for many affluent consumers, some are seeking evermore elaborate storage systems to keep their horological treasuresenergized and secure. From models with high-concept designs featuringinlaid wood cabinetry and carbon fiber accents, to humidor componentsand stereo systems, winders have entered the realm of luxuryfurnishings with an array of options to create a personalized unit—theultimate of which is a completely custom installation. (Continued)

52

WINDING IT UPTRANSCEND SHEER FUNCTION WITH A STYLISH CUSTOM INSTALLATION.

LEEM_WATCHES_Winders_Winding it Up - Q6.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:10 PM Page 52

CLASSIC SPORT

©20

12 E

be

l -

R

ef

1216

030

an

d 1

2160

31

Ebel.indd 1Ebel.indd 1 3/10/12 11:21 AM3/10/12 11:21 AM

Upon his retirement in the 1990s, Chuck Agnoff, founder and presidentof Orbita in Wilmington, N.C., received a gold Rolex automatic watch fromhis wife. He wore the watch on weekends, and found himself frustrated bythe need to constantly reset it when the power reserve ran out. He solved theproblem by devising a “gadget,” as he calls it, tokeep the watch moving when it wasn’t on his wrist.Soon, friends and jewelers started making requests,and Orbita was born. “First and foremost it was aconvenience,” he explains. “But later, I learned thatwhen a watch lays flat for a long time, the lubricantscan wick away from moving parts, so keeping yourwatch on a winder is also about preventativemaintenance that can extend its life.”

Orbita’s recent Avanti system was designed toaccommodate your ever-growing collection andcater to your personal needs. “It became a sort oflifestyle cabinet,” says Agnoff of the expandablestorage system that incorporates drawers where you can install a safe, ahumidor, a wine cooler, or other options. You can store up to 48 watches in theItalian-made Macassar or burl wood cabinets. “It’s a semi-custom winder,”explains Agnoff, “so it is priced economically because it’s built off a standardconfiguration—like buying a car and adding options.”

A similar made-to-measure approach is taken at Buben & Zorweg ofAustria. Known for its modern, slick aesthetic, the company can expand andtailor their winders to your wishes, or you can choose a custom installation.The Treasury, for example, presents an array of 10 interchangeable modules

that include winding modules for four or 16 watches, a humidor, displaycabinets for barware and red wine, and storage drawers for manual watchesand jewelry.

The brand’s limited-edition Objects of Time collection includes a modelproduced in partnership with Aston Martin. TheObject of Time One-77 (pictured above) seamlesslycombines a safe, a collection of the brand’sproprietary Time Mover watch winders, humidors,storage drawers, four world clocks, a sound systemwith a subwoofer and iPod docking station, and aflying minute tourbillion clock. The striking designemulates the muscular curves of the One-77supercar, which, like the winder, has a limitedproduction of 77 pieces.

The next level of watch storage is building acustom room, like the space commissioned by one ofOrbita’s West Coast clients. “It was a unique project,”

explains Agnoff. “He was building a new house and wanted a security room(basically an exhibition area) for all his watches, so he could relax and enjoyhis collection.” The project involved constructing a room with built-in storageunits that hold 108 winders for automatic timepieces, in addition to storagedrawers for over 200 watches. “But very few people want to go through thatkind of process—starting from scratch and working with architects,” saysAgnoff, who said the project cost around $125,000 and required six to eightmonths from concept to completion.

Luckily, you have options.

54

Winders have entered the realm

of luxury furnishingswith an array of

options to create apersonalized unit.

The design of the Object of Time One-77 watch winder (above, right) emulates the muscular curves of the Aston Martin One-77 supercar.

LEEM_WATCHES_Winders_Winding it Up - Q6.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:10 PM Page 54

SEREIN DIAMOND

Michele.indd 1Michele.indd 1 3/10/12 11:42 AM3/10/12 11:42 AM

FOCUS: COLLECTING by David A. Rose

Among the many rewards of successin sports, perhaps the best isgarnering the respect and

admiration of fans and peers. But for thoseathletes competing in Rolex-sponsoredevents, the grand prize comes in the form ofa luxury timepiece, a goal drivers set forthemselves long before they’re strappedinto their racecars.

One man, Scott Pruett from Auburn,California, is a true champion in all forms ofmotor sports, with the additional honor ofhaving won more Rolex-sponsored racesthan any other driver. Thus, he has becomethe proud owner of racing’s largest collection of Rolex timepieces.

Pruett has won the Rolex 24 at Daytona four times. He’s also wonthe Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series Championship three times andwas awarded a Rolex timepiece for each of these accomplishments. Inall, Scott owns 12 Rolex timepieces, of which 10 were awarded for hisbrilliant race wins.

“My first Rolex is by far the one I love the most,” he confides. “WhenI won the Championship in 1986 while driving for Jack Roush and FordMotor Company, I was invited to compete in what was known as theInternational Race of Champions (IROC). It was such an honor just to beinvited to compete in this series, and I promised myself that if I wereever to win one of these races, I’d go out and buy myself a Rolextimepiece. At the last race ever to run at Riverside Raceway in California,and with just a few laps left in the race, I took the lead and held on totake the win. The first thing I did after that was to go out and buy myfirst beautiful Rolex Submariner.” (In addition to this Submariner, Pruettalso bought himself a solid gold GMT-Master.)

As a world famous racecar driver stillat the top of his game, it’s remarkable thatPruett makes time for other ventures. Heand his wife Judy have joined forces toestablish Pruett Vineyard, as well as WordWeaver Books, publishers of a series ofchildren’s books they authored. Notsurprisingly, the theme is racing, includingtitles like Twelve Little Race Cars, RookieRacer and Racing Through the Alphabet.Based on actual aspects of Scott’s racingcareer, these books provide inspiration andexcitement for young readers.

As for his winemaking business,Pruett explains that even though racing and winemaking are spectrumsapart, the feelings of accomplishment are similar. “Racing is literallyminute to minute, day to day; things happen in a matter of seconds.Wine making, on the other hand, takes years: you can’t rush the process;the wine absolutely tells you when it’s ready. But it’s the blend ofchemistry and artistry in winemaking that I find so rewarding. I’m notone of these athletes who puts my name on a project withoutinvolvement; in fact, I am totally hands on at my winery, involved inevery aspect of the process (pressing, corking, labeling), with the help ofsome incredible winemakers.”

Scott Pruett began his career in karting at the age of eight and has racedevery year since. 2011 was his 43rd year of racing and it was anotherextraordinary one. With teammate Memo Rojas, Pruett won the Grand-AmRolex Sports Car Series Championship, earning yet another Rolex timepiece.“At 51 years old, I’m racing against drivers half my age,” says Pruett, “sobeing the fastest driver out there is incredible! But I never take it for granted:I’ve been blessed with this ability and feel very fortunate.”

56

TIME ON HIS SIDESCOTT PRUETT IS AN UNDISPUTED CHAMPION, ON AND OFF THE TRACK.

RO

LEX

/ TO

M O

'NEA

L

LEEM_WATCHES_Collecting_Time on His Side.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:11 PM Page 56

BaumeMercier.indd 1BaumeMercier.indd 1 3/10/12 10:56 AM3/10/12 10:56 AM

FOCUS: PROFILE by Randi Molofsky

Awalk through the historic district of downtown Miami encapsulatesmuch of Michele Watches’ telltale brand appeal: both share an ArtDeco design sensibility, vibrant color palette and bold sense of style.

It’s no wonder Michele is favored by a fashion-forward clientele with aninnate understanding of classic design.

From speedboats to soirees, everything is a little bigger in Miami.The same is true for Michele, as oversized cases emphasize a bit offlash and a signature red button logo creates instant cachet. Miami’sseaside location also necessitates a certain day-to-nighttime glam.Lounging poolside? Bold chronographs with rubber straps from theJelly Bean collection or a sporty white Tahitian Ceramic are chicstandouts. When the sun goes down, diamond-studded timepiecesmake a big statement at affordable prices.

Spring 2012 brings a refined update on Michele’s instantly

recognizable style. Serein, inspired by the Cloette, features a modern takeon a timeless design. A silvery-white dial highlights a fine circular patternand oversized Roman numerals. The Caber Sport maintains the Caber’sround case and T-bar design, now updated with a scalloped bezel andchronograph dial (available with or without diamonds).

One of Michele’s most popular styles, Tahitian Jelly Beans, is alsoreinvented this year in new brights and beach-inspired pastels. Look-at-me neons like pink, blue and green are balanced by seaside neutrals inmint, coral and steel.

Want to make a unique statement any time of year? The brand’scommitment to practicality and fun led them to offer a stunning variety ofstraps that are easily mixed and matched. From alligator to glittery leather,cobalt blue to rainbow stripes, a sense of play makes punctuality a breeze,whether or not you can make it down to North Beach.

58

SO HOT THEY’RE COOLMICHELE OFFERS STYLES FOR EVERY SETTING.

LEEM_WATCHES_Profile_Michele So Hot Theyre Cool.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:11 PM Page 58

SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES

Inspired by the ingenuity of the Original Swiss Army Knife, your companion for life.

NEW CHRONO CLASSIC CERAMIC

LEEM_.indd P059LEEM_.indd P059 3/22/12 1:33 PM3/22/12 1:33 PM

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

STEP IN STYLELocated in a small shop on New York City’s East Side,designer Barbara Barran’s Classic Rug Collection putsfashion underfoot with fascinating custom rugs. Herunique creations can be seen in very stylish homes allover the world, as well as the Whitney Museum, theSmithsonian, and other museum stores. Barran’s rugs,inspired by everything from Art Deco to traditionalAmerican quilts and her personal passion, Eastern art,are made of natural fibers including wool, silk,pashmina, hemp, linen, nettle and banana silk. She’sthe only rug designer in the U.S. to offer hand-knottedrugs from Nepal in 300 knot silk. Go barefoot!

A CHÂTEAU IN NORMANDYAt the end of a boulevard shaded with ancient trees, past clusters of huge roses in brilliant, almost illusory colors is the Château La Cheneviere. Thegrand three-story mansion, built in the 18th century, is set in the Normandy countryside, between the exquisite town of Bayeux and the historic beaches,in Port-en-Bessin. During WWII the residence was occupied by the Germans, then by the Americans after the June 1944 landing. Restored in 1988, themanor became a fully equipped hotel and restaurant, with a swimming pool, lovely terrace and beautiful views. Each guest room has a different décor,some with marble fireplaces, others with private patios. An intimate bar leads to a graceful dining room, where the brilliant chef uses local produce topresent the distinctive and legendary dishes of Normandy.

60

PerfectGems

SCO

TT C

HAN

EY

SLH

LEEM_Perfect Gems.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:12 PM Page 60

PennyPreville.indd 1PennyPreville.indd 1 3/10/12 12:02 PM3/10/12 12:02 PM

REST ASSUREDHôtel Le Toiny is, if possible, even morefashionable and exclusive than the island of St.Barth’s itself. Set away from the throngs on agently sloping hillside in the Côte Sauvage area,each of the 15 luxurious private villas has its owngated entrance and a red mailbox flag thatserves as a “Do Not Disturb” sign. Inside, enjoynetting-draped four-poster mahogany beds,high-tech entertainment centers andkitchenettes. Outside, you’ll find private plungepools and incredible views across the lush hills toa beach, popular with surfers. The sommelier hasselected superb wines and the chef createsamazing dishes (including the hotel’s signaturepasta in cream with black truffles). If you chooseto stir from your villa, arrangements can be madefor a sunset cruise or a fishing expedition. Or, youcan just put up your flag, order the excellentroom service, and hide out like the other privacy-seeking celebrity guests.

HOUSTON, WE HAVE ARTInspired by the celebrated French inn, Houston’s La Colombe d’Orhotel takes its muse seriously. This 1923 mansion, located near themuseum district, owns an extensive art collection that includesCorot, Matisse and Chagall, as well as the 1715 panels, thought to beone of the finest examples of authentic French Regence décor inNorth America. When staying in one of the hotel’s rooms or villas(like the Cezanne Suite, pictured above), art- and food-lovingguests can arrange to take a personal tour of the collection, thendine on Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass or Stuffed Quail, (naturallypaired with the appropriate wines) and Champagne sorbet, createdby chef Jeramie Robison in the hotel’s famed Restaurant CINQ.

BUBBLES IN THE AIRPops for Champagne is one of Chicago’s most elegant nightclubs,presenting a Champagne list comprising nearly 200 selections.Beverage director W. Craig Cooper offers the lowdown onChampagne for the summer: "When the mercury rises, it is alwaysbetter to select a drier Champagne. A higher dosage [sweetnesslevel] in a sparkling wine can be cloying when the weather is warmand balmy....” Cooper suggests Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut.“Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this wine…isperhaps one of the best of all Champagnes to pair withoysters…but can go just as well with a simple summer crudité.”Here’s to a sparkling summer!

62

JULI

E SO

EFER

DAV

ID T

UR

NER

PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y

LEEM_Perfect Gems.qxp:LEEM_ 3/21/12 2:30 PM Page 62


For those who dig classic conceptual cuisine outside of the traditionalrestaurant box setup, David Burke has becomesomewhat of a hero. In addition to his classic

surf and turf joints, Chef Burke holds court with hisfancy foods inside a Bloomingdale’s, a bowling alleyand an airport. If by chance you don’t recognize theoft-showy culinologist (an expert who blends culinaryarts and food technology) with a penchant forwhimsically sculpting his dishes to dazzlediners by name, there’s still a decentchance you’ve eaten in one of his 10restaurants, or purchased his gourmetproducts. (“Burke in the Box” take-out meal at Las Vegas’ McCarranAirport, anyone?) Or perhaps you’llrecall his very near win against BobbyFlay on Iron Chef, or his too-early kiss-off from Top Chef Masters.

Chef Burke has been a longtimepioneer in the biz of celebrity chefery,cooking up a career that “blurs the linesbetween chef, artist, entrepreneur and

inventor.” His factory of fabulous foodspots tantalizes taste buds through aslew of dramatically different spaces, with entertaining concoctionsappearing on plates throughout New York, and in New Jersey, Chicago,Connecticut and Las Vegas. Then there’s David Burke Townhouse, DavidBurke’s Primehouse, Fromagerie, David Burke Prime, Fishtail by DavidBurke and David Burke Kitchen. Burke is also the mastermind behindPastrami Salmon, GourmetPops, flavor-transfer spice sheets and variousflavor sprays and oils. He’s got two cookbooks and even DAVID BURKE

Magazine. We managed to catch this Renaissance man at his localgreenmarket, shopping for fresh, in-season finds.

You have so many titles! Chef, entrepreneur, artist,inventor.... Which do you feel describes you best?I’ve always felt at home in the kitchen. I was a dish washerin high school. I’d work on the weekends, and that’s when Ifell in love with the idea of working in a kitchen. I get realexcitement from the energy and creative teamwork that

happens in there. So all of the other things I am today cameout of me working in the kitchen. I get a real satisfaction out

of putting together a good product for someone else to enjoy.

MAKING MAGICIN THE FIRST INSTALLMENT OF OUR LEGENDARY CHEF SERIES, WE DISCOVER THAT

DAVID BURKE IS MUCH MORE THAN A WHIZ IN THE KITCHEN. BY SHIRA LEVINE

FOOD

Above: The lively dining room at Fishtail by David Burke.Left: David Burke, longtime pioneer of celebrity chefery.

64

LEEM_Food_Making Magic.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:13 PM Page 64

The Perfect Match: Rose Gold and Morganite

Des

igns

© M

AKU

R D

ESIG

NS

®.

All r

ight

s re

serv

ed. M

ade

in th

e U

SA.


66

Many of today’s entrepreneurial celebrity chefs don’t actuallydo the cooking anymore, but shift their focus to the businessside of things. I still do cook in my kitchens, but it’s been a natural progression for me tobe in and out of the kitchen when need be. I made an early decision that Iwas going to conquer one level of this business at a time. After I reachedthe level of what I truly felt was “me as a good chef,” then it was time to bepartner in a company. Then the next course was to start my own company.I was one of the first chefs to do that. That road had not been paved yet. Itwas the late ’70s and the beginning of modern American food and of chefsas businessmen.

A lot of the David Burke dining experience is about setting thescene, and your restaurants each have very specific, thought-out designs. Would you describe yourself as fashion forward?When you work in the kitchen it’s nearly impossible to be fashion forward!But we do take a lot of pride in the ambiance and décor of the restaurants,especially Townhouse and Kitchen. I was very involved in helping decoratethem, but I’m not a designer. Kitchen is supposed to feel dark and woodsy,comfy—like a home. Bloomingdale’s has an intimate neighborhood feel. Oursteakhouses are more masculine.

What are some other ideas you’re currently excited about?We have a moveable garden in a parking lot at the Rumsfield, New Jerseyrestaurant. This summer we’re going to put each of the gardens in little redwagons so they can move around easily. When guests walk into therestaurant, they will be greeted with a bushel of tomatoes and basil plantsthat they can cut themselves and bring to the hostess. Then we’ll prepare itat the table as part of their appetizer. I just love the idea of that.

What’s your overall food philosophy?I’m always looking to cut out the middleman as much as possible. It’s whatis most economically sound for us. I am always in a local produce marketmyself. We’ve done it with our bread, our dairy and our produce. Fish andseafood are next. We’re also currently building a dry beef company with mypatented salt treatment. Our beef comes from right here in New Jersey. Ibought a bull five years ago in Kentucky so I would know exactly where mybeef comes from and can ensure the quality of what we’re serving. We havethe product down to the genetics, for the perfect marbleization and grading.It was superior planning on our part. We always want to know where ourstuff is coming from.

Do you think all the recent hype around “local” and “seasonal”is silly? Haven’t good chefs been doing this all along? The seasonal and local thing has been done forever, but it hasn’t beentouted. It’s being emphasized now because of the the state of the economy,and high fuel prices. All the recent PR is good, especially since it helpssupport American farmers, but it’s always been what we try to do. However,you have to understand, it’s hard to do local in Chicago in the winter. It’sabsolutely what the mom and pop shops should be aiming for, but it’s hardfor big [national] chains to do it. It’s tough to be 100 percent local; youmight simply not have a good local person for something you need.

How do you please loyal customers who request something thatisn’t in season?In New Jersey we have a lot of clientele who want calamari, but it’s not local

there. In those cases we make exceptions—it’s what the customers want!But when it comes to fruit and people wanting raspberries or blueberriesyear round, we suggest maybe trying a dish with mango or pineapple.

Your menus run the deliciously garish gamut, from BowlmorLanes’ badass burger replete with applewood-smoked bacon,spicy tempura shrimp, cheddar cheese and blue cheese slaw, toDavid Burke Kitchen’s pretzel crabcake with tomato, orangeand green peppercorn. What do you love to order when you eatout, and what do you like to cook at home? I love ordering Peking duck! For myself, I love to prepare pasta. I’ll makegemelli with sweet sausage, tomatoes, olive oil and butter. When I cook forfriends and family, I love to prepare a whole roasted fish, chicken, squab orturkey. My favorite is roasted squab foie gras, cabbage with corn bread andpickled onions.

Is there anything you wish your guests would be a little moreadventurous about trying?Game birds, sweet potatoes and kidneys!

Maple Bacon DatesYields 20 stuffed dates

INGREDIENTS:1⁄4 pound peanuts2 1⁄2 ounces honey1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1⁄2 minced jalapeño 20 Medjool dates, cut in half 10 strips of par-baked smoked bacon20 seedless grapes 1 eggFlourBreadcrumbs

METHOD: 1. Heat peanuts, honey and cayenne pepper until caramelized.Cool and puree.2. Stuff puree into Medjool date half, then wrap with a half pieceof par-baked smoked bacon. 3. Lightly beat egg. Dredge grapes in flour, dip in egg wash,then breadcrumbs. Place into a deep fryer filled with hot oil andfry until crispy.4. Place grapes, and then bacon wrapped dates, on bambooskewers and serve.

LEEM_Food_Making Magic.qxp:LEEM_ 3/21/12 2:44 PM Page 66

A profound and eternal love deserves a diamond of breathtaking beauty.

The world’s most brilliant cushion cut diamond™

K TLAR CUSHION®

The Kotlar Cushion diamond is an exceptionally fitting symbol of your greatest love, your most significant achievement

or your deepest commitment. Sold only by jewelers recognized for their integrity and expertise.


FINE JEWELRY & DISTINCTIVE GIFTS



At its best, eco-friendly travel makes every day feel like the world isnew. Full immersion in an exotic natural environment makes everysound clearer, every smell sweeter, every sight sharper, every taste

more delicious. At the destinations below, getting away becomes a journeyof coming home to the senses.

EDEN IN THE OCEAN:Cruise the Galapagos with EcoventuraThe arc of the sun and rise and fall of the tides measure the days asEcoventura’s luxury motor yachts cruise the Galápagos Islands. The volcanic

archipelago straddling the equator 400 miles west of Ecuador standsoutside human time. Under the tutelage of two naturalists per 10-cabinvessel, a one-week voyage is an intimate engagement with the planet’sleast-spoiled corner.

When you see the lay of the islands from atop a volcanic cinder cone,you immediately grasp the archipelago’s violent birth. Other hikes acrossblack lava moonscapes to sandy coves reveal the resilience of bird andanimal life. Protected since 1959 as a national park, every ecological niche ofthe islands is inhabited by creatures that view human intruders as a curiosityrather than a threat. You stare roosting seabirds in the eye, and watch blue-

GETTING IN TOUCH WITH THE WORLD CAN BRING YOUTO YOUR SENSES. BY PATRICIA HARRIS AND DAVID LYON

TRAVEL

AMAN

GIR

I IM

AGES

CO

UR

TESY

OF

AMAN

GIR

I R

ESO

RT.

GAL

APAG

OS

IMAG

ES B

Y PA

TRIC

IA H

ARR

IS &

DAV

ID L

YON

.

70

The view from thelounge attached toone of the suites atAmangiri makes thedesert seem like aprivate space.Coffee is alwaysavailable for earlyrisers on theEcoventura yachts inthe GalapagosIslands.

ECO-IMMERSION

LEEM_Travel_Eco-Immersion.qxp:LEEM_ 3/12/12 3:14 PM Page 70

HenriDaussi.indd 1HenriDaussi.indd 1 3/10/12 11:29 AM3/10/12 11:29 AM

72

footed boobies in their comiccourtship dance. Male frigatebirds nearly roll overbackwards on their nests,incapacitated by the red chestpouches they have inflated tolure a mate.

The strange creaturesinhabit their own Garden of Eden. Sea lions bask on the beach nursing theirpups, flightless cormorants literally “neck” as they court, giant tortoiseslumber through highland meadows, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabsskitter across black rocks in the surf. Park rules forbid touching the wildlife,but no one has told the sea lions not to waddle over to sniff a human’s toes.(Their whiskers tickle.) ecoventura.com

RAINFOREST RHYTHMS:Costa Rica Escape at Lapa RiosLapa Rios Ecolodge crouches where Central America’s last lowlandrainforest meets the beach in Costa Rica. A model of ecologically sensitivetourism since 1993, the main lodge and 16 thatched bungalows nestle in theforest overlooking the ocean. Scarlet macaws chatter from branches andtree frogs sing all night, reminding you that Lapa Rios is the humanexception in a 930-acre private nature reserve.

More than 300 species of birds have been logged at Lapa Rios and

birders seek the glint of feathers, the flurry of flight, and burble of song toadd to their life lists. Guided hikes in the rainforest uncover exotic flora andfauna—from more than 200 species of orchids to nectar-licking kinkajous,distant relatives of the raccoon. For a complete immersion in the rainforestexperience, join an off-site excursion into the wild river canyon of ElRemanso to spend an afternoon rappeling down a series of four waterfalls.laparios.com

MANTRAS OF THE CANYONS:The Purifying Desert at AmangiriFor thousands of years, people have sought enlightenment and rejuvenationin the purifying spareness of the desert. Amangiri, which means “peacefulmountain,” hunkers down in a southern Utah desert valley looking south atGrand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Blending into the rawlandscape of bluffs and mesas with an architecture as minimal as awhispered mantra, the resort is constructed around a swimming pool oasis.

After a day of hiking amid hoodoos and step-rocks, retreat to the25,000 square foot spa where hot stone massage and full-bodytreatments aim to restore the Navajo concept of Hozho, which translatesas “beauty, harmony, balance, and health.” To encourage meditation, dailygroup yoga classes are offered in the light-flooded yoga pavilion. Butnothing so brightens the spirit as escaping the resort’s circle ofillumination at night to commune with a dark desert sky awash with stars.amanresorts.com

The giant tortoises of theGalapagos Islands are

one of the region’sendangered species.

The step pool at the spa atAmangiri glows in the falling

light of dusk.

In Galapagos, unconcerned sea lionslet photographers snap their portraitswith abandon.

Sunsets (and sunrises)are spectacular in the

Galapagos Islands.

All thebungalows atLapa Rios inCosta Rica areconstructed ofthatch.

The foot hue ofblue-footed boobiesvaries by individual.

STRANGECREATURESINHABIT THEIROWN GARDENOF EDEN

LEEM_Travel_Eco-Immersion.qxp:LEEM_ 3/21/12 4:36 PM Page 72

Konstantino.indd 1Konstantino.indd 1 3/10/12 11:36 AM3/10/12 11:36 AM

P e r f e c t l y I m p e r f e c t



My heart was pounding as I handed my passport to the smartlydressed associate from Christie’s. Just a week before, I’d beenholding the “hottest ticket in town”—a prime 3 p.m. pass to

preview the world-renowned jewelry collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The entireChristie’s block was lined with stately private limos dropping off elegantlydressed “ladies who lunch,” no doubt fresh from nibbling on micro-vegetablesalads and savory soufflés at La Grenouille.

In addition to the magnificent jewels, what struck me as I perused thevarious lots at the preview was how many lives Elizabeth Taylor hadtouched. In every room of the seemingly endless exhibit, peoplepassionately discussed her movies, her personal style, her tremendousinfluence. Women well past their fashion prime whispered about how this1960s Pucci tunic or that 1970s Halston caftan had inspired their ownwardrobe choices. My personal connection with this incredible lady wasour shared astrological sign: Elizabeth Taylor was the archetype of Pisces’“soulful eyes” and tendency to be “in love with love.”

The cheerful Christie’s associate wished me luck as she handed me mypaddle—number 5217. I tried to calm my nerves as I mounted the stairs tothe James Christie room. Working my way through the television cameras,I settled into a fifth row seat right under the auctioneer. I took a cue fromthe “serious” bidders in the rows ahead of me and stayed focused on the

bidding board and the auctioneer in his lavender silk tie. I had carefully studied the catalogs, settling on two lots of Zodiac

pendants and a lot of two Aldo Cipullo for Cartier Love bracelets. I had beenconsidering a lot of aquamarines until I remembered that Liz was aFebruary Pisces, not a March one like me. Her vast amethyst collection—including mineral specimens—suddenly had meaning beyondcomplementing her violet eyes.

The night before, I’d witnessed the mounting frenzy at the sale of the“Legendary Jewels,” but I was certain there’d be less insanity for the“ordinary” jewels. In fact, I was quite confident that I’d be able to securea lot—perhaps even two. But such illusions evaporated by the time thebidding closed on the fifth lot of the day, a pair of Van Cleef & ArpelsPisces pendants on opera-length chains. I had researched the intrinsicvalue of the items, estimated a premium for their venerable provenanceand set what I thought were reasonable bidding limits. I realized I wassadly mistaken when I was outbid by $50,000!

As the auction progressed, prices skyrocketed and I was feeling increasinglydejected. By the time the hammer went down on the Cartier Love bracelets, theprice was $75,000 over my top bid. I left the auction to wander RockefellerCenter and reflect wistfully over my lost chance at Love (or at least the Lovebracelets) and the beauty, style and legend of a truly amazing woman.

LAST BID FOR LOVEAN ACTRESS, AN AUCTION, A YOUNG MAN’S DREAM… BY JOSEPH UNGOCO

END PAGE

76

BLO

OM

BER

G V

IA G

ETTY

IM

AGES

LEEM_End Page_Last Bid for Love.qxp:LEEM_ 3/26/12 11:13 AM Page 76

IMAGINE THE PLACES THEY WILL GO.

T H E O R I G I N A T O R O F C U L T U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .

Mikimoto.indd 1Mikimoto.indd 1 3/10/12 11:43 AM3/10/12 11:43 AM

DYurman.indd 1DYurman.indd 1 3/10/12 11:18 AM3/10/12 11:18 AM

LEE

MIC

HAELS

FIN

EJE

WELRY

ACCENT

THEMAGAZIN

EOFLIFE’S

CELEB

RATIO

NS

SPRIN

G/S

UMMER

2012

Spines18:Docume

LEE MICHAELS

Documents

i f e s c e

indd c002leem

indd p001leem

c c e n t

n e o f

new jewelry

years of experience

t i o n s