Volume 32, No.8 THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979 ON CAMPUS P 4-5 FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9 CENTER SPREAD P 6-7 CULINARY CULTURE P 3 BACK PAGE P 12 BY: JARED VALBURG, AOS Culinary Brillat-Savarin called them the diamonds of the kitchen. Truffles have always been a delicacy by merit of their unique flavor and a treasure by merit of their rarity. This reputation has brought the price of this humble fungus to $3,600 a pound. In fact, the back-alley trade of truffles has spawned a massive criminal underworld in France. “The reality is, behind the popularity of the truffle lies a dangerous world,” said French Chef Clement Bruno during a recent interview with CBS News. Bruno has experienced first-hand the effects of the illicit truffle trade. “They stole 200 kilos of truffles,” he elaborates. “They didn’t steal my money! They stole my truffles!” Truffles are part of a large group of fungus that has long eluded cultivation. Truffles require decaying oak tree roots, limestone-rich soil, and hot dry weather – all of which will only create the possibility of a truffle. If a truffle does choose to appear somewhere in the vast wilderness of an environment, they must be sought out by specially trained dogs, which themselves are becoming a hot commodity among truffle thieves. “What did you do when they took your dogs?” asked Lesley Stahl of CBS News to Michel Tournayre, a third generation truffle farmer. “I looked for them all over Europe. I found a world I didn’t know about. It’s a world that’s rotten to the core.” Tournayre never found his hunters. Dogs like the ones stolen from Tournayre require serious investment for an uncertain payoff. Training begins as soon as the dog is able to smell and continues throughout the dog’s lifespan. Mature truffles are stuffed into a sock and thrown for the puppy to fetch at an early age, so as to familiarize the dog with the scent. As training progresses, the sock is hidden in more and more obscure locations until it is eventually buried, emulating the difficulty of locating a small, low fungus buried in the base of a tree. In the United States, there are only two known trainers of truffle-seeking dogs, one in Oregon and one in New Jersey. This training keeps dogs from locating the immature, less pungent fungus. Traditionally, pigs were used to locate truffles by merit of their strong sense of smell. The pigs were eventually replaced with dogs trained to locate truffles and await a treat as payment. Truffle dogs are even denied food for a day in order to make them more eager to locate the truffles and receive their treat. Chinese truffles, a variety distinct from prize white and black truffles, were used almost exclusively for feeding hogs. It was only recently that the sale of truffles to France for human consumption caught on. However, the taste and texture of these imported truffles has dismayed the truffle word at the delight of truffle smugglers – who use the cheaper, similar- looking fungus to cut their supply of actual quality truffles. Bruno comments: “It’s the truffle itself. It’s like eating a piece of wood.” Chinese truffles are not sought out with pigs or dogs. Instead, the ground where truffles are suspected to be is raked up, capturing ripe and unripe bulbs alike. The result is a product with no distinct truffle odor, no strong truffle flavor, and a drastically reduced price – in some cases, as low as $20 a pound. When mixed with the genuine French product, this fungal fodder can be snuck into disreputable establishments at an insanely inflated price. The importation of Chinese truffles and its mixture with the distinct French product raises concerns not only of the integrity of the dish being prepared, but for the practice of truffle agriculture as a whole. The worst-case scenario is that spores from the Chinese plants become intermingled with spores from French plants, which are then redistributed into the oak forests of France. There, the Chinese truffles could take advantage of the limestone soil and dry climate to choke out the French variety, ending the truffle as we know it today and eliminating kitchen diamonds so cherished by Brillat-Savarin. Tournayre once again comments, “they are putting into danger the crown jewel of French gastronomy. If one day by accident our plantation starts producing Chinese truffles, we are dead.” Let’s hope that’s not the case... Sources: http://www.cbsnews.com, http://www.natruffling.org/ Food defines us. How each person relates to food is unique to his or her identity. Personal preference is formed by the environment and continues to change as we experience new things, explore different places and gain knowledge. In America, one of the heaviest influence on our environments is the media. Everyday we face new foods to promote weight loss or prevent disease; more frequently, these opinions shift and change, often leaving many people in our nation quite confused about how they should feel about food. The problem stemming from this health-obsessed culture are the labels of “good” and “bad” associated with certain foods, the guilt experienced in tandem when consuming a decadent dessert and the distorted relationships people begin to have with food. Viewing food in a negative light is unnatural, if not absolutelyridiculous. Food simplybrings us pleasure.While practicing moderation is key to living well, deprivation of the food people love makes life a little less satisfying. Yet, Americans are caught up in a love-hate relationship with food. Usher should write a song about us. While discussing this very issue in In Defense of Food, Michael Pollan notes a study done by Paul Rozin, a psychologist at the University of Pennsylvania. Rozin showed a group of Americans the words “chocolate cake.” Delicious, scrumptious and luscious are just three of the many words that describe the pleasing nature of the flavor of food, especially chocolate cake. The most frequent answer Rozin received was “guilt.” Unless you chow down on a Six Layer Chocolate Cake a la Paula Deen, this seems like a slight overreaction. Guilt is a strong word in itself. In our world of eating disorders and depression, why are we allowing food to become a source of anxiety? Inspired by Professor Rozin and in the spirit of fulfilling curiosity, I conducted a survey of students and staff at The Culinary Institute of America to discover our students’ answers. “Triple chocolate cake” was greeted with a multitude of words; surprisingly the top adjective was the 19% who responded with “delicious.” “Rich” followed with 16%, then “decadent” and “sweet” followed suit. Only a handful of those polled replied with words with a negative connotation such as the 6% who said it was “too much”; or the 4% who described this dessert as “heavy.” When those students were asked which food fit the word “indulgent”, 35% said chocolate and another 13% specified chocolate cake. It would seem that many have a grasp on how to put foods in their proper place by acknowledging their tasteful merits with the knowledge that such foods are meant for treats, not everyday occurrences. While the words “fat”, “calories”, “sin”, “pimples” and “diabetes” did appear as a total of 8% of the responses, they weren’t the majority rule. Overall, people’s reactions toward triple chocolate cake were fairly positive, quite different from Rozin’s guilt- ridden results. Of course, consideration should be given towards the fact that the survey was conducted in a bubble of people who love and are well educated about, food. Although this does not necessarily make us healthier or even more health-conscious than others, we do understand food more than the average tourist who peers through our production kitchen windows. Our admiration and passion for all things edible allows us to cast off the blanket of food-related fear the media has tucked most of America into bed with over the past few decades. Professor Rozin also surveyed groups of French people in the same study. When confronted with the infamous “chocolate cake” question, he found they most often responded with “celebration.” His conclusion noted that their positive view on indulgence may be the key to their overall healthier relationship with foods. Even the circus of health advice around us has come to the conclusion that once we purposefully make something into a diet taboo, we then crave it exponentially and will binge later when we finally relent (which anyone who has dieted knows eventually happens). Turning the tables slightly, in the survey conducted on the CIA’s campus, I included the word “celebration” and asked people to write down the first food or beverage that came to mind. Interestingly enough, while no one related “triple chocolate cake” to celebration earlier in the survey, 58% of those polled said that the word “celebration” reminded them of cake. The fact is that cake is imbedded in our minds as a celebratory food, especially in America. Every birthday, office retirement, graduation or Father’s Day provokes the excuse to enjoy cake. Yet, one of the biggest anxieties about social gatherings people harbor are based around the calories to be consumed, the big question: to eat, or not to eat cake. If you were forced to read Hamlet in high school, you know such inner-personal struggles are not healthy for the soul. Labeling cake as “party”, “delicious”, “diabetes” and “sin” all at once is contradictory, which generally leads to more confusion for all involved. If food is our identifier, then we should claim it proudly, lest we be identified as nervous and befuddled about such a simple thing. Over-thinking whether we should treat ourselves or stick to a salad wastes precious agonizing time better spent on timelines or wines reading. As for Professor Rozin and his chocolate cake: Enjoy a slice once in awhile, it’s good for you. e infamous black truffle. Photo By: tartufiunlimited.com BY: ANNA FROST, AOS Baking and Pastry
La Papillote 03-01-2012
Mar 11, 2016
La Papillote, Volume 32 #8. Cover Articles: Truffle Underground and CIA Food Relationship Survey
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Volume 32, No.8
T H E N E W S P A P E R O F T H E C U L I N A R Y I N S T I T U T E O F A M E R I C A S I N C E 1 9 7 9
ON CAMPUS P 4-5
FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9
CENTER SPREAD P 6-7
CULINARY CULTURE P 3
BACK PAGE P 12
BY: JARED VALBURG, AOS CulinaryBrillat-Savarin called them the diamonds of the kitchen. Truffles have always been a delicacy by merit of their unique flavor and a treasure by merit of their rarity. This reputation has brought the price of this humble fungus to $3,600 a pound. In fact, the back-alley trade of truffles has spawned a massive criminal underworld in France.
“The reality is, behind the popularity of the truffle lies a dangerous world,” said French Chef Clement Bruno during a recent interview with CBS News. Bruno has experienced first-hand the effects of the illicit truffle trade. “They stole 200 kilos of truffles,” he elaborates. “They didn’t steal my money! They stole my truffles!”
Truffles are part of a large group of fungus that has long eluded cultivation. Truffles require decaying oak tree roots, limestone-rich soil, and hot dry weather – all of which will only create the possibility of a truffle. If a truffle does choose to appear somewhere in the vast wilderness of an environment, they must be sought out by specially trained dogs, which themselves are becoming a hot commodity among truffle thieves.
“What did you do when they took your dogs?” asked Lesley Stahl of CBS News to Michel Tournayre, a third generation truffle farmer.
“I looked for them all over Europe. I found a world I didn’t know about. It’s a world that’s rotten to the core.”
Tournayre never found his hunters. Dogs like the ones stolen from Tournayre require serious investment for an uncertain payoff. Training begins as soon as the dog is able to smell and continues throughout the dog’s lifespan. Mature
truffles are stuffed into a sock and thrown for the puppy to fetch at an early age, so as to familiarize the dog with the scent. As training progresses, the sock is hidden in more and more obscure locations until it is eventually buried, emulating the difficulty of locating a small, low fungus buried in the base of a tree. In the United States, there are only two known trainers of truffle-seeking dogs, one in Oregon and one in New Jersey.
This training keeps dogs from locating the immature, less pungent fungus. Traditionally, pigs were used to locate truffles by merit of their strong sense of smell. The pigs were eventually replaced with dogs trained to locate truffles and await a treat as payment. Truffle dogs are even denied food for a day in order to make them more eager to locate the truffles and receive their treat.
Chinese truffles, a variety distinct from prize white and black truffles, were used almost exclusively for feeding hogs. It was only recently that the sale of truffles to France for human consumption caught on. However, the taste and texture of these imported truffles has dismayed the truffle word at the delight of truffle smugglers – who use the cheaper, similar-looking fungus to cut their supply of actual quality truffles. Bruno comments: “It’s the truffle itself. It’s like eating a piece of wood.”
Chinese truffles are not sought out with pigs or dogs. Instead, the ground where truffles are suspected to be is raked up, capturing ripe and unripe bulbs alike. The result is a product with no distinct truffle odor, no strong truffle flavor, and a drastically reduced price – in some cases, as low as $20 a pound. When mixed with the genuine French product, this
fungal fodder can be snuck into disreputable establishments at an insanely inflated price.
The importation of Chinese truffles and its mixture with the distinct French product raises concerns not only of the integrity of the dish being prepared, but for the practice of truffle agriculture as a whole. The worst-case scenario is that spores from the Chinese plants become intermingled with spores from French plants, which are then redistributed into the oak forests of France. There, the Chinese truffles could take advantage of the limestone soil and dry climate to choke out the French variety, ending the truffle as we know it today and eliminating kitchen diamonds so cherished by Brillat-Savarin.
Tournayre once again comments, “they are putting into danger the crown jewel of French gastronomy. If one day by accident our plantation starts producing Chinese truffles, we are dead.” Let’s hope that’s not the case...
Sources:http://www.cbsnews.com, http://www.natruffling.org/
Food defines us. How each person relates to food is unique to his or her identity. Personal preference is formed by the environment and continues to change as we experience new things, explore different places and gain knowledge. In America, one of the heaviest influence on our environments is the media. Everyday we face new foods to promote weight loss or prevent disease; more frequently, these opinions shift and change, often leaving many people in our nation quite confused about how they should feel about food. The problem stemming from this health-obsessed culture are the labels of “good” and “bad” associated with certain foods, the guilt experienced in tandem when consuming a decadent dessert and the distorted relationships people begin to have with food. Viewing food in a negative light is unnatural, if not absolutely ridiculous. Food simply brings us pleasure. While practicing moderation is key to living well, deprivation of the food people love makes life a little less satisfying. Yet, Americans are caught up in a love-hate relationship with food. Usher should write a song about us.
While discussing this very issue in In Defense of Food, Michael Pollan notes a study done by Paul Rozin, a psychologist at the University of Pennsylvania. Rozin showed a group of Americans the words “chocolate cake.” Delicious, scrumptious and luscious are just three of the many words that describe the pleasing nature of the flavor of food, especially chocolate cake. The most frequent answer Rozin received was “guilt.” Unless you chow down on a Six Layer Chocolate Cake a la Paula Deen, this seems like a slight overreaction. Guilt is a strong word in itself. In our world of eating disorders and depression, why are we allowing food to become a source of anxiety? Inspired
by Professor Rozin and in the spirit of fulfilling curiosity, I conducted a survey of students and staff at The Culinary Institute of America to discover our students’ answers.
“Triple chocolate cake” was greeted with a multitude of words; surprisingly the top adjective was the 19% who responded with “delicious.” “Rich” followed with 16%, then “decadent” and “sweet” followed suit. Only a handful of those polled replied with words with a negative connotation such as the 6% who said it was “too much”; or the 4% who described this dessert as “heavy.” When those students were asked which food fit the word “indulgent”, 35% said chocolate and another 13% specified chocolate cake. It would seem that many have a grasp on how to put foods in their proper place by acknowledging their tasteful merits with the knowledge that such foods are meant for treats, not everyday occurrences. While the words “fat”, “calories”, “sin”, “pimples” and “diabetes” did appear as a total of 8% of the responses, they weren’t the majority rule. Overall, people’s reactions toward triple chocolate cake were fairly positive, quite different from Rozin’s guilt-ridden results. Of course, consideration should be given towards the fact that the survey was conducted in a bubble of people who love and are well educated about, food. Although this does not necessarily make us healthier or even more health-conscious than others, we do understand food more than the average tourist who peers through our production kitchen windows. Our admiration and passion for all things edible allows us to cast off the blanket of food-related fear the media has tucked most of America into bed with over the past few decades.
Professor Rozin also surveyed groups of French people in the same study. When confronted with the infamous “chocolate cake” question, he found they most often
responded with “celebration.” His conclusion noted that their positive view on indulgence may be the key to their overall healthier relationship with foods. Even the circus of health advice around us has come to the conclusion that once we purposefully make something into a diet taboo, we then crave it exponentially and will binge later when we finally relent (which anyone who has dieted knows eventually happens). Turning the tables slightly, in the survey conducted on the CIA’s campus, I included the word “celebration” and asked people to write down the first food or beverage that came to mind. Interestingly enough, while no one related “triple chocolate cake” to celebration earlier in the survey, 58% of those polled said that the word “celebration” reminded them of cake. The fact is that cake is imbedded in our minds as a celebratory food, especially in America. Every birthday, office retirement, graduation or Father’s Day provokes the excuse to enjoy cake. Yet, one of the biggest anxieties about social gatherings people harbor are based around the calories to be consumed, the big question: to eat, or not to eat cake. If you were forced to read Hamlet in high school, you know such inner-personal struggles are not healthy for the soul. Labeling cake as “party”, “delicious”, “diabetes” and “sin” all at once is contradictory, which generally leads to more confusion for all involved.
If food is our identifier, then we should claim it proudly, lest we be identified as nervous and befuddled about such a simple thing. Over-thinking whether we should treat ourselves or stick to a salad wastes precious agonizing time better spent on timelines or wines reading. As for Professor Rozin and his chocolate cake: Enjoy a slice once in awhile, it’s good for you.
The infamous black truffle. Photo By: tartufiunlimited.com
BY: ANNA FROST, AOS Baking and Pastry
Where can one find Royal Dorade, Black Sea Bass, Amberjack, Summer Flounder, White Sea Bass and Bronzino being raised on land? Even better, where can one find these types of fish raised within a land-based ecosystem which recreates their natural saltwater habitat? I am not going crazy my friends, the impossible is finally possible. A few weekends ago, I attended the Slow Food trip to Local Ocean, a fish farm located a bit past Red Hook, NY. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect before we departed. As discovered through some online research, we were about to visit a unique aquaculture operation that supplies the larger NY metropolitan area with “locally fresh and sustainable seafood.” Intrigued and excited for this trip, we headed down Route 9 for what was sure to be an
eye-opening experience. Local Ocean raises six varieties of clean fish that are grown in a 100% controlled saltwater ecosystem. Remarkably, Local Ocean guarantees fish delivery within 24 hours to the customer, a promise that few are able to keep. In partnership with Great Bay Aquaculture, the Local Ocean team has been working on developing new ideas and concepts to better the environment and expand their retail. And they’ve been successful in building a truly unique aquaculture operation right here in Hudson Valley. We arrived at what appeared to be an old, industrial warehouse. Upon entering, however, we found ourselves in the midst of an oasis of fish tanks and circulating pipes. One would never have guessed that fish would be harvested here! The water filtration process that is practiced and applied within Local Ocean’s facility is fascinating. There is literally no waste. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria purify the water by feeding on biological waste from the fish and undigested fish-feed nutrients. We saw a huge sediment basin where fish feces and other solid matter collect through the bottom of the fish tanks and are then processed by anaerobic bacteria (i.e. bacteria that do not use oxygen). Dead fish are also put to use by being sent to a compost facility. Even more interesting were the ways that Local Ocean is experimenting with growing plants that support water purification and can be harvested as edible plant matter. We tried some Salicornia leaves that were grown in the nutrient rich saltwater at Local Ocean. As expected, the taste was salty and refreshing. While sanitizing and dipping our rain boots in pools of bleach to keep as clean as possible, we approached the second part of the building, which looked like a greenhouse. This section was more organized and fairly new, compared to the old warehouse area. Here, the pipes were constructed based on gravitational pull in order for the water to cycle around properly. We also learned that the currents in each tank are controlled to create designated water patterns. Raymond Mizrahi, VP of Sales and Marketing, who led our tour of the facility, pointed out some advantages the set Local Ocean apart in the aquaculture industry:
- Local Ocean fish are mercury safe (caged aquaculture fish usually contain mercury) -High-quality, fresh Yellowtail/Hamachi are in very high demand on the NYC sushi
market. Local Ocean has the unique advantage of being able to deliver Yellowtail within 24 hrs from harvest.
- At the time of harvest, Local Ocean fish are placed in ice water which puts them to sleep. It is the most humane approach to harvesting market ready fish. When harvested in less
sensitive ways, fish experience stress and the meat may not be as tender and flaky. - Celebrity chef Mario Batali orders Local Ocean fish for some of his most well-known NYC
restaurants Eataly and ESCA-
Local Ocean raises six different species of fish. Such a diverse product mix is quite rare in the aquaculture industry.
Raymond ended the visit by giving every student business cards and brochures. Keep your eye out CIA, this business is growing steadily and has the potential to revolutionize aquaculture and redefine consumer tastes and expectations! Many thanks to Local Ocean and SlowFood for providing us all with this experience! Let’s continue to support the local farms, aqua centers and others who extend kindness to our oceans.
2LA PAPILLOTE
COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
Chef Freddy BrashNico Dellenback Robert FlowersBeth ForrestAnna FrostEric JeffayEric JenkinsPaige KnowlesBlayre MillerBrad NelsonJocelynn Neri
Jacqueline PalmerChelsea RossNatalie SingerStacia SligerLisa StephanLocal Ocean TeamJared ValburgAmie Valpone Clare WagnerChristine Wendland
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Giulianna L. Galiano
LAYOUT EDITOR Jake Hauss
ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug
EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.
Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Giulianna Galiano, Editor-In-Chief at [email protected] POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected] with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
CONTRIBUTORS
March 1st, 2012
From the Editor’s Desk
Editorial
Cheers! Giulianna L. Galiano
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3
Culinary CulturEMarch 1st, 2012
FROM EXTERN MANUAL OF: CHRISTINE WENDLAND, AOS Culinary
by: Goldie Radojevich, AOS Culinary
It is really important to honor, respect and remember our mentors in the restaurant business. Thinking about it brings me back to when I was a student in 1976 and we learned the basic techniques a bit differently than we teach here at school today.
The present wine room set the stage for a demo where a Chef would perform knife cuts, brown bones and prepare stocks, broths and soups. The next day, we would proceed to the kitchen and repeat what we had seen. This was a very good method of learning, through repetition and evaluation. Maybe The Culinary will go back to those teaching methods one day…
My first mentor here at CIA was Chef Almquist. Chef was the Culinary Demonstrator for all of the demonstrations mentioned above. I can remember being amazed as I sat there watching him cut vegetables and sauté fish along with meat. He made it look so natural and I often wondered, “Will I ever get that good?” Unfortunately, I don’t remember his humor; I was too overwhelmed in catching up to my classmates. I was only able to later learn his humor when I returned as an Instructor.
I loved telling students that I had Chef Almquist for Skills in 1976.
He hated when I said 1976, he would always say, “ Freddy, don’t let them know how old I am. Just say I
taught Skills.” I would always greet Chef Almquist as “Chef”, because that is how I learned to greet these people from day one. Even if I saw him in civilian clothes, it was a form of culinary respect!
In 2000, I had the opportunity to travel with Chef Almquist to California for the Bachelor’s Food, Wine and Agriculture Trip as well. We had such a good time and that is when I learned his unique sense of humor. Wherever we went, people would ask him directions and he would always respond the same way, “I am an-out-of-towner.”After a while, we would laugh over this constant question.
Thank you, Chef Almquist, for all of your knowledge, patience and humor. You will truly be missed.
Chef Heywood taught charcuterie class, where we cured, smoked and dried all types of sausage. He was a master at this art because he knew the technique and obviously was passionate about cooking. While he liked to have a good time, he also expected you to come in prepared. If not, he was in your face!
Needless to say, Freddy B. went to class prepared. I loved his straightforwardness. This way, as a student, you knew where you stood.
I was a skinny student in those days and Heywood loved to grab me in a headlock and rub my forehead. I didn’t like it at the time, but he probably liked me. In those days, after you completed Chef Heywood’s class, you were able to assemble forcemeats, understand why we smoke meats and why in early America, we salted foods to preserve them.
So years later, in 1998 to be exact, Freddy arrived at CIA to teach. There I was in K-14 ready to prepare Cream of Broccoli Soup and I saw Chef Heywood at the door. I do remember, as a young Instructor, feeling really insecure about teaching. Chef Heywood saw me in the hallway one day and I shared those
feelings with him. He responded, “Freddy you know the subject. They don’t. That is why they are here. Now, get in that kitchen and do your demo!”
Thanks Chef Heywood for that, I will try to uphold your standard.
It would not be complete if I did not share about my first mentor as I was working in the field.
Loic Avril was French and worked in many French Restaurants in New York. We met at Le Relais where I was hired as a Sous Chef. Avril had many great ideas about flavors of food and loved nightly specials. He was also a family man and loved his wife and children very much. Sometimes, he would stay at night to cook on the line for dinner service. Being cooks, we loved when he was with us because although he demanded perfection, he was also very fair and we felt like human beings around him. At one point during dinner service, we were so deep in the weeds that he glanced over at me and said, “Freddy, you better get moving!” I simply looked over and smiled. Man Down! Thank you Chef Avril for all that you gave me, you will be missed as well…
BY:CHEF FREDDY BRASH, CIA Instructor
Chef Heywood helping out students in class. Photo Provided By: Freddy Brash
Chef Wayne Almquist.Photo Provided By: Freddy Brash
July 2011 Externship Submission: The only thing standing between the half-ton bull and me was ten feet in distance. My only defense: a three foot branch from the forest. Was I intimidated? You bet. But this was it... welcome to Bobolink.
The orientation process began Monday with cow herding at 7 a.m. led by the two chief farmhands, Clay and Matt, and the apprentice cheese-maker, Elaine. It was less a structured orientation and more of a mere, “grab a stick, and avoid the bulls” warning. I hiked up the mountain with them in oppressively muggy heat for a morning in the mountains and looked for the milking herd. I learned that there are two herds; the milking herd consisted of the cows who we collected milk from, their offspring (not yet weaned), pregnant cows, and two bulls named Leonardo and Satsuma; they numbered about 50-60 altogether. The second herd, the ‘dry herd’, grazed in an adjacent field beyond the forest line, where young bulls not ready for breeding, weaned yearlings and calves, males awaiting beef slaughter and the half-ton bull from my introduction
lived. The massive bull was an original, one of the patriarchs of this fine clan of animals, a Kerry bull whose shoulders were the girth of a Volkswagen Bug and who stood at about 6 feet (seriously, he was HUGE! You get the idea). He bore foot-long curved horns tipped in black, and a face of wisdom and majesty, like an old wizard from medieval times. Bobolink used the Kerry breed of cattle to begin their integrated breeding program. An ancient Irish milking breed developed in the Bronze Age by the Celtic population, the Kerry breed is thought to be the most similar descendant of the ancient auroch cow (Bos primogenus) of the Stone Age (http://www.kerrycattle.ie/thebreed.asp). They are impressively stately animals, like no other cow I’d ever seen. They are naturally docile, and give excellent milk. I was more likely to be injured by walking though a rosebush than to have this bull, or any other cow for that matter, charge me. Respect and authority are paramount when approaching the herd.
So, back to the mountain…we began walking the cows down, with “Yep! Yep!” hollering as encouragement for movement. They filed down the slope, into the milking corral, and we entered the 1960’s-era milking parlor to begin the collection. The setup is a four-stanchion line, one cow per stanchion, and a vacuum-suction milking system that attaches one suction tube to each of four teats. The vacuum action draws milk out from the teat, into a collection tube, and pumps it through a filter straight into the milking vat in the adjacent creamery. After fumbling around with the milker for a few cows, I quickly got the hang of positioning the suction cups properly and felt comfortable in a short time. Once you get over the occasional smear of cow dung on your arm, it isn’t so bad! And quite honestly, the milking parlor was the coolest room on the farm this week, so it was a relief to get out of the heat.
After milking was complete, and I began to learn some of the herd’s names, Elaine and I gowned up in aprons and hats to begin the cheese making process. All the cheese at Bobolink is produced from the fresh raw milk, and aged a minimum of sixty days before sale. In lieu of conventional cheese making methods,
which utilize acid starters to begin fermentation, we use a more traditional approach, allowing the naturally fermenting bacterial cultures in the milk itself to create the acidity needed to make cheese. Elaine demonstrated the sampling of the initial milk, followed by samplings at timed intervals where it is determined by taste when the milk is ready for rennet to be added. The milk varies from day to day, depending on the cows’ moods, the field they grazed upon, and the weather, among other factors, so there is no exact timeliness to it all – it is truly an artisanal, learned process. Once the milk tasted correct to us, we added rennet, allowed the curds to form, and then filled the molds depending on Jonathan’s best estimation of yield percentage and which cheeses he chose to make that day. We filled the molds, flipped them, salted cheese wheels from the previous day, and stored cheeses from two days before – every cheese works on a two-day process.
What I’ve come to appreciate so far in my first week, is that the farm and it’s community of cows and people is very similar to the moldy rinds on the cheese – it is a polyculture, an intricate weaving of animals and humans and grass and air and outbuildings and technology that interfaces into one, complete picture- Bobolink. It is a strictly linear business organization, though vastly complicated in its fiber. In joining on as an extern, I’ve been entered into the hive, so to speak, and become another worker bee in this buzzing system, welcomed openly and warmly, and treated fairly and equally.
Christine’s morning farm commute on the mountain.Photo Provided By: Christine Wendland
4
on CampusLA PAPILLOTE
Intramural Basketball: CIA intramural champions, Taylor Gang, traveled
to New Paltz to play Marist College on Saturday Feb. 4th for a 2pm game in hopes to of winning against the tough opponent for the 2012 Intramural Championship title. The team lost 26-50. Christian Flores was named “All-Team.”
Intramural Floor Hockey: Monday, January 30th was the kick-off to the
2012 intramural floor hockey season. Four teams are competing for the CIA intramural championship title which is scheduled for Monday, March 19th @ 9:15Pm. Come watch for 45 minutes, District 5, Sufa King Good (SKG), and the Mighty Ducks play on Monday and Tuesday nights at 9:15PM and 10:15PM.
Steels Basketball: The 2011-2012 team finished overall 4-10 in the
Hudson Valley Men’s Athletic Conference (HVMAC). Losing to Albany Pharmacy 79-41 at home on Sunday Feb. 12th took the team out of the running of the play-offs in the HVMAC Championship Tournament. Throughout the season, three players from the CIA Steels team were recognized by the HVMAC for their hard work. Dimitri Tishlias, sophomore ‘guard’ from Dallas, TX was honored in Week Five as, “Rookie of The Week”. Payne Harding, sophomore ‘guard’ from Little Rock, AR in Week Ten was named, “Player of The Week.” Travis Prank, freshman ‘forward’ from Tracy, CA was awarded for Week Fourteen’s, “Rookie of The Week.” At the banquet dinner, Dimitri Tishlias and Sammy Sleman were named as co MVP’s, Brian Boggs was presented with the “Most Improved Player,” and the “Coach’s Award” went to both Edward Lott and Nicholas Wasicek.
In a couple of weeks, on March 21st, the CIA. will be hosting a Women’s Leadership Conference organized by our own Denise Mazzei, an AOS Culinary graduate and the previous Café Operations Professor of Apple Pie Bakery Café. Denise is also the founding member of The Culinary Institute’s branch of the Women’s Foodservice Forum, which is the organization behind the conference. We will be hosting what is called a “regional connect” where members within a certain area meet to workshop, learn new skills and most importantly, network with one another.
Because of the organization’s name, it’s easy to assume that the regional connect is a feminism-fest where women fight for equal pay in the work force and rally for suffrage. That assumption, however, would be wrong. The Women’s Food Service Forum (WFF) does find equal pay, equal rights and harassment in the workplace as worthy causes. Yet, it is simply a leadership organization with women in mind. Improving professionalism, educating and networking are the missions of the WFF, with other issues indirectly addressed.
The WFF has several goals for its members and women as a collective in the food service industry. The WFF is not just for women, chefs, or even those who work in restaurants, but every aspect of the food service industry from privately owned businesses to corporations. In fact, only about 15 percent of members are in full-service restaurants. A key part of the forum is its twelve competencies: Financial Acumen, Strategic Thinking, Awareness, Driving Results, Building Trust, Risk Taking, Initiative, Mentoring Others, Communication, Influence and Diplomacy, Building High-Performance Teams and Building Networks, which are designed to streamline a path to success however the member chooses to excel. Each competency is important, but each year of workshops is themed with a certain competency to emphasize. Last year was “Influence and Diplomacy”, while this year is “Communication and Listening.” Featured speakers at the Conference will include C.E.O. and Chairman of PepsiCo Indra Noodri and moderator Lorna Donatone C.O.O. of Sodexo, a current member of the C.I.A.’s Board of Trustees and chair elect of the Canadian Branch of the WFF. There is no one role model that WFF members look to for cues on how to be successful. Speakers and moderators are only at events to serve as examples of how the competencies work.
Some WFF members aspire for managerial jobs
(about 38 percent of WFF members), while others strive for “C-Seats” or chief positions of a corporate
company (7 percent of members); and other members strive for ownership of a private business. This regional connect is simply a miniature version of the national conference, where only one competency is emphasized. It will be a three-hour event, which begins with WFF member networking, followed by what is called “programming”, where there are presentations such as “decoding financial statements”, “building your social capital”, or “business strategy” to improve one’s leadership.
WFF members feel obligated to help others achieve their goals, create a transparent environment to allow for feedback, live up to promised standards and value the contribution of others no matter how small.
With over 150 companies partnered with WFF such as Darden, PepsiCo, Sysco, Campbell’s and Kraft. In addition, WFF offers scholarships for high-potential Women Leaders through Sysco, Wendy’s, and The National Restaurant Association. Not only do these regional connections and conferences allow for incredible network opportunities, but they are meant to inspire many forms of leadership out in the workforce.
As General Manager of Hotel Hershey, Brian O’Day juggles responsibilities ranging from hotel suite inspections to brand representation and everything in between. He is, however, partial to his time spent overseeing kitchen productions. There are three restaurants within the Hotel Hershey, but Mr.O’Day is most fond of the main production kitchen, because of its busy and exciting atmosphere. While his days vary greatly, one constant is popping by the kitchen and briefing with the staff.
Mr. O’Day jokes that he often is found breaking his own rules. One of these broken rules is that each morning he enters Hotel Hershey not through the “employee entrance”, but rather through the front doors. He enjoys the chance to get a guest’s perspective on the resort and finds opportunities to improve the quality of service in doing so. During his first morning walk about after checking the lobby, he moves to the employee entrance to check out what he calls his “most important assets,” the employees. In his
time at the hotel, he has overseen many projects, but one that he is particularly proud of is the 68-million-dollar Grand Expansion. This included the addition of guest cottages, a new restaurant, an updated lobby and a new infrastructure, all the while keeping in mind the goal of the “green lead initiative” that Hotel Hershey achieved the certification on a silver level for their mindfulness of sustainability. Harvest, the property’s newest restaurant, which was built during the expansion, was created to carry the theme of local and regional food throughout the resort.
An important concern of the Hershey team is that of the community it is surrounded by. The Hershey Trust is an extension of The Milton Hershey School Trust, which was founded in 1905 to provide a quality education for children with disadvantages. The school originally enrolled ten students, but has since grown to over 1,800. Along with the school, he keeps in mind the town when making business decisions that may affect the lives which in turn fuel Hershey’s success.
In speaking with the February graduates of our school, he hopes that they take away one central theme from his visit. He reminds students and alumni to realize the importance of staying connected with one another. O’Day reminds us that, “the network of forty kids today is something that will not go away unless you let it. Keep close, keep in touch, and you are going to be very successful.”
Mr. O’Day made clear that students should throw themselves out there. If you are working hard, hoping to grow and focusing on learning and improving as much as you can, opportunities allowing you to do so will come, just as they have for General Manager Brian O’Day.
Brian O’Day himself at CIA graduation. Photo By: CIA/Nikki Shayer
BY: PAIGE KNOWLES, AOS Baking and Pastry
BY: ONA PECK, SRC Sports Intern
BY: CHELSEA ROSS, BPS Baking and Pastry
Women are a huge role in the Food Industry today!Photo By: intaadvising.gatech.edu
ON CAMPUS5
March 1st, 2012
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BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary
BY: ROBERT FLOWERS, AOS Culinary
There are a lot of clubs at The Culinary Institute of America, but can anyone tell me which club is the longest student-run club on campus? Give up? That club would be The Gourmet Society. One may ask, what does The Gourmet Society do? The club’s mission statement is: “The Gourmet Society is a student-run club dedicated to the exploration and celebration of food through demonstrations, tastings, and discussions. This club is open to ALL campus students, culinary, baking, AOS and BPS alike. Come join the fun!”
Some of the club’s past events were tastings and demos of Turducken, Mangalitsa Pork, Rougie Foie Gras, Bemka Caviar and many others. President Amanda Garuccio says, “We are the longest student-run club on this campus and every week we try to have a student-led demo that can change week to week. Some of the weekly demos that we have range widely from water, salt, butter, tea and all the way up to vegan cooking. As of right now, there is not a lot going on with our club as far as upcoming events. However, every Tuesday, we meet and we try to have some type of student host a demo.”
The officers are Amanda Garuccio, President, Eric Hodge, Vice President and Kelly Follmer, Secretary. You can contact them through the club’s email: [email protected]. Or checkout their facebook link: http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/profile.php?id=787720303
Here since November 2012, he’s the new guy in town. Duane Brown is the recent BPS Program Coordinator. Brown helps to aid and inform students that are continuing their studies in the BPS program. This includes Hyde Park as well as Greystone and San Antonio campuses. He also speaks on the Food, Wine and Agriculture course as a recent BPS graduate himself. Duane Brown brings with him the valuable life experiences and lessons learned from his time spent in the kitchens and classrooms of The Culinary Institute of America. Having graduated with an Associate’s in 1998 and Bachelor’s degree in 2012 as well as the 12-plus years of real life experience in the culinary field, he is more than willing to share his journey with others.
Though Brown is new to the CIA staff, he is obviously not new to the CIA. Initially drawn to this culinary profession by the cooking programs aired on PBS, Duane became engaged, during high-school, in the Careers Through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP). This is a program that, “works with public schools across the country to prepare underserved high school students for college and career opportunities in the restaurant and hospitality industry.” In 1996, he buttoned down his whites, adorned with the green letters D-u-a-n-e B-r-o-w-n stitched across his right breast. While enrolled, Brown was very involved on campus, serving as the Vice President of the Black Culinarian Society. In May of ‘98, he graduated with an AOS and took on a number of positions within the industry, first dominating the line and then working his way upward. He assisted in the establishment of a restaurant named Maxie’s Supper Club and Oyster Bar in Ithaca, New York. His most exciting job was catering with Puff and Stuff, a company based in Orlando, Florida. At Puff and Stuff, he encountered autonomy, variety and the need to problem solve.
Brown, however, grew hungry for more, learning that with the dynamic evolution of the food industry, employers began to require more. He could climb no higher without further education. Confident that the CIA would provide him with that edge he now required, Duane returned to complete the Bachelor’s program in 2010 graduating in November, 2011. As he neared graduation, he sought the next step, discovering a position here at his alma mater, and he took hold of it right away.
Now that he is on board, Brown intends to serve as many students as possible, assisting them in making the best decisions for their career, motivated by the
satisfaction of helping others plan and achieve their culinary career goals. To do so, he has taken part in orientations for incoming students, the “Reconnect” program for returning externs, BPS Text Communication and BPS Express on Facebook and Twitter.
Dr. Kathy Merget, to whom Duane Brown reports to, applauds Brown’s recognition of his need of a Bachelor’s degree and for his execution in doing so. “It is not easy to leave the industry after twelve years to pick up a family- wife and kids- and relocate for the purpose of continuing an education.” She describes Brown as being approachable, smart, creative, attentive, innovative and caring. Dr. Merget has nothing but words of appreciation and approval in regards to Duane.
Having been a CIA graduate and a veteran of the field, Brown has priceless understanding of what information is needed in the industry and consequently what information must be integrated into the curriculum. His time at The Culinary built him a firm foundation and garnered him leadership opportunities. From the field, he brings logistics, organization and the ability to plan ahead. It is this sachet of practical knowledge and savvy that will make him a successful BPS Program Coordinator, able to relate with both students and communicate with faculty.
The Fun Facts:Favorite Type of Cuisine: New American
Cuisine (i.e. Oceana, 11 Madison Park, Gotham, Artist’s Palate)
Favorite Music: Jazz and Gospel MusicMost Memorable Teacher: Ryan Baxter, who he credits as being one of the first of a new breed of Chefs that approached students in a professional
manner. Best Cooked Personal Dish: Pan Seared Rib-Eye
with Pommes Frites and Wilted Spinach.
You can Contact Duane Brown through:-BPS Text Communication (Q&A for student concerns
regarding BPS)-845-337-5524-
-BPS Express via Facebook and Twitter
Just before I began working at The Culinary Institute of America, I traveled to Poland. While there, I saw the statute of N. Copernicus, who successfully argued that the earth in fact revolves around the sun. I heard the music of F. Chopin, who artfully combined the spirit of both nationalism and romanticism. I visited the Wieliczka Salt Mine and licked the walls that had, since the 13th century, been the source of economics, myth, war, art (the miners carved reliefs of the Last Supper and entire chandeliers from the rock salt) and, of course, life itself as a food preservative. Finally, I went to Auschwitz, where I saw the remnants of the horrors of the Holocaust, the genocide of Jews, Poles, political opponents, peoples with disabilities, and countless others. Perhaps it is because this very week, as I sit down to write about the class, “History and Culture: Europe”, that I remember both my trip to Poland and the importance of understanding the roots of Western civilization.
This class is not about memorizing dates but rather understanding the shifting of beliefs and values over time. We do this by considering broad themes that
include religion, government and revolutions, science and technology, thought and philosophy, exploration and discovery and how even changing perspectives are evident over time. We use an array of primary sources – artwork, material culture, novels, to name but a few – as well as secondary sources, arguments made by historians, to critically think about the larger ramifications of changing ideas. For example, the students and I read Elie Weisel’s moving memoir, Night, which accounts his memory of Auschwitz and charges us with the task of remembering the past, but also to consider the potential of humans and how fragile the tension can be between progress and destruction. What happens when people are forced to dream more of an extra portion “of food than of liberty” as they do in Night? Why are certain people denied either, and what institutions allow this to happen?
Since my academic background is rooted in social and cultural history and, in particular, the role of food, it makes sense to use food and drink as a lens through which to which we can better understand history.
Thus, we consider such concepts such as the function of the medieval banquet and the upside-down world of carnival, why etiquette becomes reflective of one’s “quality,” how the Great Exchange changed diets and nutrition, how the restaurant industry reflects political ideology of the French Revolution, how national dishes reflect national character, why tapas became such a widespread institution in Spain and even the meaning of modernist cuisine – which has been in existence for sixty years prior to Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal.
The final project of the course with which the students are charged, is to ask their own historical question and investigate a topic of their choice. This is, perhaps, the most exciting for the students as well as for me, for it allows each student to delve into a subject that they find personally intriguing. By doing this research, students frame questions, critically consider sources and their “reliable-ness,” apply theory to practice, and arrive at an argument. All of these skills allow us to be better citizens, and by better understanding our own values and beliefs.
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LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6
Since mid-September, the Occupy Wa l l Street movement has g a i n e d the attention of the nation and the world. Disgusted by income inequality and the corporate influence on government, over two thousand citizens have taken to the streets to make the voice of the silent majority heard once more. Opposing the 1% of Americans owning near 35% of the nation’s wealth, the self-proclaimed 99% have drawn their representation from this vocal group holding its ground at Zuccotti Park in the Wall St. District of New York City.
Recently, a group of students from The Culinary Institute of America volunteered their time and their skills to provide these protesters with food. I had a chance to sit down with the organizers of the event, Jeff Scott and Michael Echeveste, who were kind enough to share their experiences working with the students of the CIA as a part of one of the largest protest movements in recent memory.
Michael Echeveste is the co-president of the Slow Food Club on campus, and the organizer of the Occupy event.
Jared Valburg: What can you tell me about the Occupy movement in general?
ME: The protests were modeled after the Arab Spring government protests. They wanted to show their distrust and disconnection with the government. It started as a flash mob on Wall St., which just kept growing and growing until it became too big for Wall St. and relocated to its central hub in Zuccotti Park, which is where we were for the event. It was really a great experience for the whole group. There were all sorts of people there, from every political, social, and religious background. The unifying factor was representing the 99% of Americans – the majority of
people who didn’t have access to the majority of the wealth.
JV: Do you do these sorts of political volunteer events often?
ME: Not really. There are food politic events through Slow Food, but that mostly pertains to locality and fair trade. Jeff and I organized the event as a way to let students participate in the political process. When we got there, everyone poured out of the cars and immediately started volunteering all over the park.
JV: What would you say was the most memorable part of the event?
ME: There was one student, couldn’t have been more than half an hour after we got there, who was working in the information booth, helping people familiarize themselves with the ideologies of the group. The general ideologies allowed students to get involved in a very non-specific way. We made food for those who needed it as we could; we wanted to play that supporting role. The cooking part of it was a lot of poverty alleviation. It wasn’t just Occupiers in that line. There were all sorts of people, people without homes or food, who just wanted a hot meal. Every aspect of America was in that line.
Jeff Scott is the co-president of the Slow Food Club on campus, and organized transport to the Occupy event.
JV: I would imagine that cooking off-site for such a large group would have been pretty difficult. How were the conditions at Zuccotti?
JS: We set out fairly early, hoping to get a spot at one of the volunteer kitchens. Basically, a number of local restaurants near Zuccotti Park were opening their kitchens to volunteer groups like us so that we could feed the Occupiers. I guess we should have left earlier, because we ended up in a tent, which wasn’t really
that bad. We didn’t have stoves or fire or anything, but there was bottled water there and electric lighting provided by a bicycle generator out front. We prepared tuna sandwiches, spam sandwiches, and some fresh vegetable salads. It was a lot of fun.
JV: So it sounds like you managed alright.JS: The tent we were working was supported with
two poles, and had a guy working on the dish station all day. There were a number of other volunteers there, and it seemed like everyone knew what was going on. We were basically extra hands.
JV: Where did this food come from? Was it available on premise or did you bring a shipment with you?
JS: It was all donated. A chef showed up part way through to help us out, I think we was a chef at Mario Batali’s place. He oversaw the food donations and distributed it all to the stations. We made a lot of our food from that. Chicken salad sandwiches, Red onion and corn relish, a vegetable salad from canned greens, all served buffet style.
JV: What would you say was the most memorable thing about the event?
JS: I would have to say the generator bike. Apparently there was a guy there with electrical experience, and he set it up to store electricity for lighting later in the evening. I had a chance to ride it for a bit, and that drew some attention to what we were doing and got people interested.
JV: How would students go about participating in future events?
JS: While the Occupy event wasn’t related to Slow Food, that’s probably the best way to become more active politically at the CIA. We meet the first and third Tuesday of each month at 9:15pm in the Wine Spectator Room.
Greetings from Occupy Poughkeepsie. At this pivotal time we would like to discuss with you a bit about
ourselves. Like all branches of the Occupy movement we are united by common goals that go beyond any
single issue. While most Occupiers are in agreement on re-regulation of the financial sector and the problem of
corporate personhood, these represent just two symptoms of deeper problems that have become entrenched in our
society, thanks to the undue influence of money over politics. We seek to shine a light on these inequities.
What makes Occupy Poughkeepsie unique is that we are working in a predominantly blue-collar, ethnically diverse
community that has been especially hard hit by the current recession.
-Provided By: Dennis Breslin of Occupy PoughkeepsieOccupy Poughkeepsie. Photo By: Lnnnow.com
Even locally, we are facing similar protests and reform. Below is an Occupy Poughkeepsie
press release segment:
“The fuTure course of occupy Wall sTreeT remains unclear.
BuT one Thing is sTarkly evidenT: under The Banner “We are The
99%” The proTesT has given BirTh To america’s mosT imporTanT progressive movemenT since
The civil righTs marches half a cenTury ago. This is The sTory of
ThaT Beginning.” -Workhousepr.com
BY: JARED VALBURG, AOS Culinary
7March 1st, 2012
How many different recipes for fish have you prepared? How many times have you eaten fish since arriving at the CIA? How many different species of fish have you tried? Fish are one of the most diverse populations of animals on the planet. Whether they are caught in rivers or the sea, fish are a staple of nearly every regional diet. The annual fish consumption in the U.S. has been steadily rising since the industrialization of fishing, with steep increases since the nutritional benefits of adding fish to one’s diet have been publicized. Unfortunately, the mass consumption of fish, and culinary preference of certain species over others, has led to overfishing, a tragedy that damages our ecosystem.
With the damage done to certain fish populations and ecosystems, some advocate increased government regulation. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration is the agency that oversees fishing in the United States through its Office of Sustainable Fisheries. In 1976, the Magnuson-Stevens Fishery Conservation and Management Act was passed, and it was reauthorized in 2006 with stipulations mandating annual catch limits, instituting accountability measures to prevent overfishing, providing for widespread market-based fishery management, and increasing international cooperation. NOAA also makes an annual report to Congress about the status of the nation’s fisheries. Much of this information, while publicly accessible, isn’t user-friendly. The reports are heavy with bureaucratic jargon, and require much sifting through.
In order to begin to understand how the U.S. regulates and aids “sustainability” of fisheries, there are a bevy of terms to define. First and foremost is the term “fishery”, which is a sort of catchall term that describes any entity involved in the raising or harvesting of fish. A fishery can be a fish farm or a cooperative of fishermen. In fact, “fishery” can even simply refer to a specific area of water or sea bed. Secondly, we must wrangle with the term “sustainability”, another vague minefield. In terms of how the NOAA regulates fisheries, however, “sustainability” is abandoned in favor of the term “vulnerability”, which is more substantially based upon qualitative data and is measured in Productivity and Susceptibility Assessments, or a PSA. Roughly speaking, fish are graphed in terms of the relationship between their ability to reproduce, or to sustain a population, and their fishing mortality. Fishing mortality is straightforward – it’s the rate at which fish
die due to fishing.The rest, however, isn’t quite so straightforward. A
great number of fish die from mortal wounds caused by the fishing gear itself, be it hook, net, or dredge. Many are found dead from discarding, which is often a result of what is called “bycatch.” NOAA’s first by catch report was released in September of 2011 and found that 17% of fish caught commercially were caught unintentionally – bycatch. Blue fin tuna, as of December 2011, were considered “overfished,” but much of their vulnerability is due to bycatching, as the heavy hook used for catching yellow fin tuna often hooks onto bluefins. Demand for the delicious Atlantic sea scallop (ceviche, anyone?) has not only contributed to perilously low population numbers of yellowtail flounder, but has also been significantly detrimental to local Loggerhead turtles. Bycatching is a problem that is slowly being remedied, however, through advancements in technology. Pingers, or acoustic instruments used to detect whales, dolphins, and porpoises in nets, have reduced the bycatch of sea mammals by half since 1997.
Putting aside the discard mortality, the incidental mortality from the fishing gear and bycatching, fish populations are most at risk due to overfishing. Overfishing is legally defined as subjecting the stock (or population of fish studied) to a level of fishing mortality that jeopardizes the capacity of the population to produce the largest long-term yield of the stock. The catch limits, as mandated in the Magnuson-Stevens Act, are implemented to prevent against overfishing and to help to rebuild fish stocks (but not fumets), and fisheries are encouraged to create catch shares. Catch shares are similar to the growing trend of farm shares; fisheries allocate a percentage of their catch to individuals, cooperatives, or corporations. Catch shares are not regulated though, and fisheries can pass the torch – the recipient of the catch share becomes responsible for preventing overfishing.
Things get even stickier here. Catch limits are created for all fish populations, whether or not there is substantial data to assess. This is particularly an object of contention between fishermen and the EPA. The news has been littered with stories of disputed numbers of cod – there hasn’t been enough raw data for a proper Productivity and Susceptibility Assessment, but the Magnuson-Stevens Act requires an assessment to be completed, regardless. Assessments are also completed on fish stocks that are geographically divided, and the stocks are not always biologically
distinguishable. Distinguishing between stocks has become a problem in California, where the numbers of Chinook salmon that have been spawned in a hatchery are overwhelming the numbers of salmon that are naturally born. It’s estimated that only 10% of Chinook salmon today are naturally born.
To prevent against overfishing, many people tout fish farms. Unfortunately, improper or inadequate disposal of dead fish, fish feces, and uneaten fish food contaminates the waters of fish farms. Many fish, like salmon, are carnivorous and require “feeder fish” – it takes approximately 3 lb of feeder fish to produce 1 lb of edible salmon, and the populations of feeder fish are not monitored by NOAA, but brushed off as merely “economic component species”.
It’s not all bad. In 2011, NOAA estimated that 79% of U.S. fisheries were not overfished, and sustainability – even as a vague idea – has become a new industry standard in the food world. There are multiple non-governmental organizations that are independently audited and certify fisheries for sustainable practices. The Marine Stewardship Council and Friend of the Sea, in particular, are large certifying agencies, whose labels you can identify on your next seafood purchases. The best strategy, however, might be to bypass all of the uncertainty and bean-counting – find a local, reputable purveyor that you can trust and build a relationship with. If sustainability is worth the extra dollar or two per pound, leave the red tape for your fisherman.
Schools of fish are getting smaller and smaller. Photo By: en.wikipedia.org
Every day that passes brings us closer to the inevitable moment when applications for the new townhouses will be accepted. The first building is expected to be finished on June 18th. The others will be finished by July 31. All Junior and Senior students are eligible to live in the new Townhouses.
Three buildings, containing seven smaller “condo” style-housing units, will house 160 students. Twenty groups of eight people will be handed the key to their new dorm. However, these dorms are like nothing you have ever seen on a school campus. They look as though they should belong on a golf course.
Unfortunately, the new townhouses are not available for the Freshmen and Sophomore students. If you are lucky enough to be starting your Junior year by March 6th or June 18th, you will have a chance. When you are filling out your new housing form, make sure to express your interest under the comments section. If you are even more serious about reserving a room, find eight of your friends to join you. This will
increase the chance of you being selected. The only “requirements” are that you are able to get along.
The new townhouses are also coed. A group of four guys can find another group of girls and live in the same house. The Associate Dean of Residence Life, Ken Turow, explained, “First come first serve.” These townhouses are affordable. The price of a room in a townhouses is the same as a single room in the lodges.
If you have the time in your busy schedule, take a walk and check out your possible new home. You won’t see the finished product, but you will see people working tirelessly, building this project. Just imagine wiping your feet on the new door mat, walking into your new living room and passing through the fully stocked kitchen (each house has its own Wolf stove). Don’t wait. Plan ahead. Find a group of people and make sure you tell Residence Life that you are interested!
BY: NICO DELLENBACK, AOS Culinary
BY: NATALIE SINGER, AOS Culinary
This will be the living room area facing the exterior.
The kitchen and dining
room area in each town-house will
look like this.<---------
All information and pictures are provided by the CIA and Ken Turow, Associate Dean for Residence Life.
8LA PAPILLOTE
Food &
BY: BLAYRE MILLER, BPS Baking and PastryEvery Greek place I’ve ever eaten at has been quite similar. Murals of ruins and picturesque river views as far as the eye can see, Greek soccer memorabilia slung from wall to wall, an informative placemat describing Greek mythology at your seat and some colorful Greek people serving you a lamb gyro for dinner. With this said, you can imagine the picture I was expecting when I stepped into the doors of Kavos Gyros in Poughkeepsie.
This particular day, I was on a date with my two favorite men. Brandon, (who my usual readers will recognize as my boyfriend, always in tow), was not extremely thrilled at the prospect of having Greek food, but is usually up for anything I suggest. Eric (you might know him as our “Fervent Foodie”) is my lovable yet very particular companion when it comes to eating. He is extremely well versed in good food and will certainly let you know when he enjoys (or doesn’t enjoy) something. We made a good trio.
The first thing I saw when I opened the door to this tiny eatery, located down the street from the Poughkeepsie Train Station, wasn’t a statue of Aphrodite. Instead, I was met by two huge vertical roasting spits and a tower of imported olive oil.
“Where’s the blue and white?” I started to think… then the huge pans of spanakopita and baklava distracted me. Maybe this place was more than just over-the-top decorations.
An important thing to note when it comes to the menu is that Kavos doesn’t serve the lamb gyros one usually finds at most Greek establishments. The menu notes that in Greece, the traditional gyro is either filled with pork or chicken, which the owner and his brother skewer and stack themselves on vertical roasting spits, so that’s the way they serve it. If you are still hankering for a richer-flavored gyro, Kavos offers one filled with seasoned beef that is sure to satisfy.
We ordered at the small register and then sat down in the adjacent dining room. Although the dining room was simple, with only a few colorful pictures hanging on the walls, I had a feeling that my focus was meant for the food about to arrive.
We started with an order of their Spanakopita. I enjoyed the filling, a plentiful mixture of spinach, feta and onions, but we all agreed that it needed some heat to make the layers of buttery filo crispy. Speaking of crispy, just as we were discussing the Spanakopita, an order of hand-cut French fries arrived at the table. If the Spanakopita was lacking in crispiness, these heavenly, golden-brown fries made up for it. Kavos offers their spuds plain, with salt and vinegar, or with lemon, oregano, and sea salt for no additional charge.
If you want fries but don’t want an entire side, get ready…because they put them in their gyros! Yeah, I said it. Imagine a delicious gyro with an extra layer of crunchy goodness. Be still my deep-fried heart!
So, now the gyros, the main event at most Greek restaurants. We each ordered a different gyro, which gave us the opportunity to try a variety. I ordered The Classic Gyro with pork, which came wrapped in a fluffy pita and topped with tzatziki (a Greek cucumber-yogurt sauce), tomato, red onion and fries. It was unique compared to any gyro I have ever had, and I could not put it down! Brandon ordered The Red Pepper Gyro with chicken. This came topped with roasted red peppers, basil, mozzarella and balsamic- also unique and different. Eric ordered The Bifteki, which was the gyro with seasoned beef, tomato, onion, tzatziki, and fries. At less than eight dollars, each gyro made for a perfect, inexpensive meal. The restaurant even allows you to add fresh lettuce and substitute a whole-wheat pita for no extra charge. Kavos also delivers (if you are drooling right now and can’t get off campus- $20 minimum!).
We finished off our meal with some crispy baklava, a Greek dessert with layers of filo, butter, walnuts, and a syrupy honey sauce that makes your teeth hurt in a wonderfully good way.
All I can say is that we left with satisfied stomachs, and our thoughts drifting to when we could visit again. At the end of the day, over everything else, good food always rules.
In the spirit of St. Patrick’s Day, let’s talk about corned beef! The traditional meal made with the ingredient of the same name was actually started in America in the mid 1800’s by Irish-Americans. In Ireland, most holiday meals would consist of ham or bacon joint, which is a cured piece of pork. After many Irish immigrants started coming to America, they discovered that corned beef was similar in texture to bacon joint and readily available. Nowadays, Americans continue to eat corned beef and cabbage for their traditional St. Patrick’s Day dinner.
Although many believe that corned beef is popular in Ireland, it is actually most prominent in the United States. Corned beef has become not only a popular dish on St. Patrick’s Day, but is enjoyed all year round by many Americans. Interestingly, the dish has become extremely popular with United States Presidents over the years. Abraham Lincoln’s inaugural dinner on March 4th 1861 included Corned Beef and Cabbage with Parsley Potatoes on the menu. President Grover Cleveland declared that after eating corned beef he had, “found food fit for the Gods.”
Corned beef can be eaten many ways besides the traditional pairing with cabbage. There are also many variations to eat the traditional dish. For instance, you can add cheese sauce to the corned beef and roll it up in cabbage or turn this combination into a soup! If you are looking to escape the cabbage all together, you can make an apple and brown sugar corned beef by using a glazing agent such as apricot sauce.
“Corning” your own beef for St. Patrick’s Day is easy. The corning process can be done with any cut of meat but the best option would be a tougher cut, such as a brisket. Below is a home-cure recipe that is a great option.
In a large pot, combine one gallon of water, salt, sugar, pink salt, garlic and half of the pickling spice. Simmer the mixture until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Cool mixture. Place brisket in the brine; keep it submerged with a plate. Cover and refrigerate for five days. When ready to cook, remove from brine and rinse thoroughly. Cook with water, pickling spice, carrot, onion and celery. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to low and cover. Simmer gently until the brisket is fork tender.
Whether you are painting yourself green or drinking Guinness, try out this recipe for corned beef for St. Patrick’s Day!
Sources: history.com/topics/st-patricks-day-symbols-andd-traditions, foodista.com/blog
As spring advances, we are advancing into the flavors of warm sunny days. Memories of driving down to the docks of Connecticut to get a warm lobster roll from the local fishermen flood my head. For us in Hyde Park, those comforts are far away from here. Yet, a short trip to Manhattan will bring you back to those days on the docks. In fact, on West 23rd and 8th, you will come across a little place called Claw that will do just that. The warm, inviting coral and cream dining room is off-putting after trekking on the teeming streets of Manhattan, but inviting nonetheless. Upon entering, I noticed the stark white and shiny kitchen in the backdrop of the creamy coral. Although small, the dining room is very charming. Wicker bar stools, casa-blanca fans and a comfy looking booth make you feel like you are in a Hampton’s sweet spot just off the beach.
Once entering behind closed doors, I instinctively began my plethora of questions. Drake Mandrell, Joe Wylie, both 2011 graduates from The Culinary Institute of America and Alex Giocondi, the General Manager, were amongst the crew there when I arrived. They gave me a tour of the kitchen and storage areas, which were very neat and organized. In their artillery is a fascinating steamer where all of the lobsters are cooked. It seems to be the most efficient method for the chefs, seeing how they easily go through astounding numbers of lobster. “We have a purveyor in Maine and we order 150 pounds from them every other day. Then, we’ll do 250 throughout the weekend,” said Sous Chef, Drake Mandrell. This is the most major standout that Claw has compared to the local competition. “Everyone compliments how different it is from the area, how fresh it is…our biggest competitor can’t say that their lobster is fresh, it’s frozen. That’s our edge on them.” Although their rolls are priced competitively, the crew makes a majority of these items from scratch and has to factor in that extra labor cost. I pondered this for a moment as I looked at the young man in chef whites across from me, only three years older than I was. He was in fact the Sous Chef at a self-proprieted
restaurant owned by Joe Miller. “I don’t think we would have been able to do it
without Joe. It was he who came up with the name; he came up with the concept. I think now he’s actually the youngest restaurant owner in the city,” commented Mandrell. He continued, “If we had started later, we would have missed the trend…missed the space. Now, we are considering ourselves a restaurant group. We have a lot of plans for the future,” for which Miller is responsible for.
Though chefs with big ambitions, is it possible to truly become a success without multiple years of experience and education? Dave, Joe, Alex, Drake and Wylie seem to think so. They have a great organization and determination about them, which will carry them through the challenges of being new restaurant owners. After getting some shots of the beautiful space and the warm potato roll stuffed to the brim with lovely lobster, I dashed out into the cold city streets, glancing up at that coral canopy.
Claw’s Lobster Rolll- simply delicious! Photo By: Jocelynn Neri
BY: LISA STEPHAN, AOS Culinary
Home Cure
-1 gal. water-1-½ c. salt-½ c. sugar-4 tsp. pink salt (sodium nitrate) -3 cloves garlic, minced-4 tbsp. pickling spice
-1 5-lb. brisket-1 carrot, peeled and chopped-1 medium onion, cut in half-1 celery stalk, chopped
Adapted from www.Ruhlman.com
BY: JOCELYNN NERI, BPS Culinary
FOOD & BEVERAGE 9March 1st, 2012
BEvEragE
Just recently, while in one of my favorite travel destinations, Washington D.C., I had a nostalgic moment as I drove down by the waterfront, not too far from the Jefferson Memorial. I remember going to the waterfront to get fresh seafood and eat at the best restaurants D.C. had to offer. As I drove around looking at the redesigned waterfront, (it’s been about four years since I was there last), I noticed that all of my old favorites were closed or renamed. Therefore, I drove over to the Georgetown waterfront to see what was there. I stumbled upon Tony and Joe’s, which is a sister restaurant to one of my old favorite seafood restaurants, The Dancing Crab. Back in September of 1984, I drove past this awkward Tenleytown eatery. The restaurant had a giant neon crab on top and a glowing “Malt Shop” sign on the window. “Seafood and milkshakes, who comes up with that?” I thought. This absurd combination made no sense to me and I simply had to find out what was going on in this place. This is one establishment where curiosity definitely got the best of me. I have been coming back ever since!
The decor was like a dive bar, it reminds me of being inside a pirate ship or something. Along with loving crabmeat, I would still come back here since it is close to where my friends live. However, I’m sure there are much better, swankier, cheaper places to go that I haven’t been to yet in the D.C. area. I went with a group of friends who all love seafood and this place is great for groups and lends itself to sharing. The hostess seated us and brought
out menus after covering the tables with butcher paper. The service was quick, attentive and very polite. Our group of five ordered a dozen large crabs, several appetizers (shrimp, crab cakes and oysters) and several sides (fries, hushpuppies, sweet potato chips and coleslaw). The prices weren’t bad at all. A dozen large crabs (enough for 4-5 hungry
people) was $60. Sides and drinks round up to about $20-25 a person including tip, which isn’t too bad. The waitresses brought the crabs, slathered in old bay, out on a tray and gave us a bib, a plate, a hammer w/ utensils and tons of napkins. We had a great time and the crab was very tasty. I’m a fan for two reasons. First off, the crabs were heavy, hearty and full of meat. It’s all about getting
down and dirty, cracking open shells to work for your food! Number two, the location was ideal and easy to find street parking, which is rare in D.C.
I loved the casual atmosphere of The Dancing Crab. Outdoor seating was available and there were cozy booths inside. In the dining room, there was only one TV, so this is not a place to go during a big game. I don’t drink, but my friends said that the beer selection was limited, but the local beer they had, the Back Fin pale ale, was pretty good. Overall, if you are a crab-seafood lover, this place is most definitely for you. If you are not a crab lover, you must at least give it a try. Ask a waiter/waitress for instruction of crab shelling and eating. Trust me, anyone can do it. Last, but not least, here is some practical advice: make sure that you wear
a shirt that is easy to wash afterwards; you might spray yourself with crab juices or stain your outfit with butter or some sauce. Maybe even go in with a colorful Hawaiian shirt, the patterns will cover up any stain!
BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary
Dancing Crab Restaurant4611 Wisconsin Ave NW
(between N 41st St & N Brandywine St) Washington, DC 20016
Neighborhood: Tenleytown(202) 244-1882
BY: CLARE WAGNER, AOS Culinary Usually, all Jell-O shots have a common characteristic; their soft texture. Even if there are additional things added for texture, such as fruit or other garnishes, one can rarely call Jell-O shots “crunchy”. It is true that any ingredient added into the Jell-O while the Jell-O is still liquid can become mushy and unappetizing. However, if one adds something onto the outside the finished shots, there is a chance that the desired crunch may still be there!
Crunchy Jell-O Shots
-1 box of Blue Raspberry Jell-O-1 c. cold vodka-1/2 c. peach schnapps, room temp.-1/2 c. apple juice, room temp.-4 tbsp. Rainbow Nerds
In a large mixing bowl, mix the Jell-O, vodka, peach schnapps and apple juice. Whisk until all of the gelatin is dissolved completely, about thirty seconds. Pour the mixture into a 13” by 9” glass cake pan. Refrigerate until firm, about four hours. When ready to eat the Jell-O shots, take a butter knife and cut the shots into 1”x1” cubes. Run the bottom of the cake pan under hot water until the sides peel away easily and cleanly, about one minute. Take an offset spatula and carefully slide under shots until all are removed from the pan. Place on a plate. With a pastry brush, brush the tops of the Jell-O shots with warm water. Sprinkle the Nerds onto the Jell-O shots. Let the shots sit until dry and Nerds are stuck on, about ten minutes. Enjoy!
Make sure to stop by this D.C. loved eatery!Photo By: dcseafood.com
Beer and seafood, a perfect marriage.Photo By: lisa-life100milesperhour.blogspot.com
Pot luCkLA PAPILLOTE10
Culinary Arts Group
FarrallonBlue Hill at Stone BarnsMcCrady’s RestaurantRestaurant DanielBear Mountain InnJW Marriott Hill CountryBear Mountain InnPeninsula GrillStanford DiningVoltL’Auberge du Lac Casino ResortRestaurant LukeBouleyHigh CottonCrazy Horse Ranch (KMG)Frankies 457 & Prime MeatsWDW-Coral Reef RestaurantNew World Home CookingJW Marriott Desert RidgeUnion League,1862Ritz Carlton, MiamiInn at Little WashingtonJW Marriott Camelback InnTopolobampo, Frontera GrillBlue Hill Stone BarnsProspect Street CaféModern, TheWDW-Grand FloridianChefs de FranceGotham Bar & GrillGramercy TavernSouth Seas Island ResortEleven Madison ParkWaldorf AstoriaBabboQuinceDevonshire PGA NationalGreen ZebraSweet BasilSkytop LodgeOne RestaurantUnion Square CaféQuaker Ridge Golf ClubDB Bistro ModernTribeca GrilFresh CompanyRitz CarltonAvalon GrilleWDW-Epcot The Coral ReefChalkboardEast Pan AsianMonroe Golf ClubJW Marriott Desert RidgeSouth Seas Island ResortWDW-CinderellaJW Marriott San Antonio
CANYSCNYNYTXNYSCCAMDLALANYSC
NYFLNYAZPAFlVAAZILNYWANYFLFLNYNYFLNYFLNYCAFLILCOPACAN.NYNYNYNYNYDCCAFLOKINDIANYAZFLFLTX
Charles KevinSung Pil
JackTyler
BrandonVictoria
RyanAndrea
AndrewErin
RachelAlicia
ChristopherSeanEric
MichaelWilliamAndrew
NicholasMichael
VictorStephenMaxwell
DavidJaeyoung
LorinKwonpyo
ElliotMikaelJinwon
JongKyle
YoungbockScarlettJoseph
MichaelJonathan
ManuelJohn
StephanieNicolas
NickolasAndrew
MatthewSwanyLaura
ManuelAenith
ElizabethKent
JahnaviMaisha
AlexanderBrianneMeghanGerardo
AbellaBangBothwellBowenCampneyCarrauthersChatfieldClarkCohenConnorCookeCooperD’ambrosioDowlingElam-WellingtonFerreiraForesmanForsstromFrankGoldenbergGuerraHensleyHerbstHollingerJangJanitaJeon JohnsonKhaldiKimKimKrawczykLeeLonesMarcianoMazzeoMendezMendozaMonacoMonroePadillaPalamaroPetersonPhelanReidRomanskiRuizSananikoneSaundersShulanbergerSinghThomasTobiasWhittonWilliamsMartinez
SITE NAME STAT
E
STUDENT
90 AcresWDW-Epcot Production BakeryJW Marriott San AntonioModernJean GeorgesMuscoreil’s Fine DessertsHurracane ClubSterling Affairs CateringWilliam Penn InnWDW-Boardwalk BakeryAmy’s BreadSorellaJean-GeorgesClinton Street Baking CoPebble Beach Co.Ritz Carlton, Washington, DC AcadianaPebble Beach Co
NJFLTXNYNYNYNYNJPAFLNYNYNYNYCADCDCCA
LindsayEsmerlin
ArielaYoon
SohrobStuartNancyBrian
StephanieChelseaMegan
RebeccaAlexander
AshleyNicoleSarahSarah
Malorie
BorensteinBritoBurnettChoiEsmailiFichteFisherGottlickGwinnJonesKelleyKoodishLevinPenaPirlotPomeroySabatanoSmith
SITE NAME STAT
E
STUDENT
Baking and Pastry Group
Culinary Arts Group #3
Culinary Arts Group #2
Baking and Pastry Group #1Laura B. Rass
MinKyung ParkGinye Kim
Christine WongRachel Deluca
Seungeun Amy HongAshley E Betts
Brent RustRory McGowanJedidiah L BoyerMark HenningKyle ButtramSarah BorriesNicole Ross
Savannah StrombergElizabeth HuntFernanda LealLisa AppletonJosh Reade
Nastassia RaymondDavis Hood
Jovany ChanyingHolly Jones
Marco JuehneHolly Smith
Matt LippelmanEduard R Whude
AOS GrAduAtinG ClASS Of MArCh 2, 2012
Dimitri TishliasTedi E Thorne
Demetra StamusJoshua Calderon
Suan GarridoStephanie HsuMatthew KeenJames Neale
Scott KarnsAndrew WerblinKevin Wadzok
Jeff ScottNicholas Fitzgerald
Ray OrtizJames McCune
Culinary Arts Group #4Leah PfeifferTory ReggioDievn Chung
Brigid RonsomeNatalie SuitsSkyler Honka
Ilya DenisenkoMike Scarpa
Jessica SimoneMax PettersenYves Andre
Ryan StutzbachDonald Dussard
Nailah EllisKwangchul Park
Christina Steanbuck
Chef Cantu is the Executive Chef
and Owner of Moto Restaurant, Chairman and Founder of Cantu Designs and Host of
Future Food.
Homaro Cantu is an internationally recognized Chef and leader in the field of postmodern cuisine and an inventor of futuristic food delivery systems. He has been
described by former Disney CEO, Michael Eisner, as the most revolutionary person in food since Ray Kroc, and called “a chef in the Buck Rogers tradition, blazing a trail to a space-age culinary frontier” by The New York Times.
Chef Cantu graduated from Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute in Portland, OR. After developing his culinary skills at several establishments along the West Coast, he traveled to Chicago to work at Charlie Trotter’s, where he rose to the position of Sous Chef. After leaving Charlie Trotter’s, he concentrated on the development of his concept of an experiential design-based restaurant with a molecular gastronomy approach. Moto, one of Chicago’s most notable restaurants, puts Chef Cantu’s concepts and creations into practice by melding food with science, technology, and art to create an unmatched dining experience.
Through his company, Cantu Designs, Chef Cantu has filed numerous patent applications covering dining
implements, cookware, and printed food, and he is currently developing his inventions for commercial, humanitarian and aerospace applications. In addition to consulting for Fortune 500 companies on creativity and innovation, Chef Cantu has influenced thought across several disciplines. He and his “edible paper” have been featured in Gourmet, Food & Wine, The Wall Street Journal, and American Scientist. The invention was chosen as one of, “The best ideas of 2005” by The New York Times Magazine. In addition, Fast Company hailed Chef Cantu and Cantu Designs in its “Weird Science” cover story. Cantu Designs’ interactive utensils were part of the “Feeding Desire, Design and Tools of the Table, 1500–2005” exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC, and currently appear in Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry as part of its “Fast Forward, Inventing The Future” exhibit.
His television appearances include “Battle Beets—Morimoto vs. Cantu” on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America (during which he defeated Morimoto) and Dinner: Impossible, among many others. In 2010, along with Pastry Chef Ben Roche, Chef Cantu created and produced Future Food, his first television series for Discovery Network’s Planet Green.
Chef Cantu’s current projects include building a multi-million-dollar design and prototyping laboratory dedicated to green food technologies, addressing global food challenges such as obesity and famine, and working on his first book, The Miracle Berry Diet Cookbook. He has also been asked by the Museum of Science and Industry to design an interactive exhibit that will feature his research on the miracle berry as a viable way to dramatically decrease the need for refined sugar.
11March 1st, 2012 POT LUCK
Unfortunately, like almost every person on this planet, I am not immune from food aversions. These aversions can be a serious thing. On a Friday night service, in fact, I’ve seen guests even exaggerate their dislikes as “allergies” in an attempt to ensure the elimination of unliked ingredients. While my case is not nearly as dramatic, I am ashamed to admit that I have a specific aversion to an entire cuisine.
I consider myself an open-minded person willing to try the foods of India, Taiwan, or Peru. Yet, I take slight issue with the most common foreign cuisine eaten in America: Italian food. In fact, the very sight of a table filled with Eggplant Parmesan, Spaghetti Carbonara and Pizza somehow suppresses my hunger.
Still on the annual kick that follows the beginning of the New Year, I’ve attempted for the past month to overcome my negative feelings towards Italian Food. Thinking I would have the best chances of success, I’ve taken a bilateral approach: ordering typical Italian dishes in restaurants and recreating Italian dishes at any chance I get.
Despite my vocal aversion, I’m not too proud to admit that I’ve been delighted by Italian dishes before. In fact, one of the more memorable dishes I’ve had was in Advanced Cooking class when a team served a Farrotto, or Farro Risotto. The dish had everything I look for in a risotto; it was creamy and starchy while still maintaining the distinctive bite of farro.
As February approached quickly, I struggled to create a Valentine’s Day meal. As I looked over recipes, I decided to again attempt to overcome my food aversion, thinking that the positive emotions that come along with a romantic meal for two would help reward my attempt at Italian cuisine.
Granted, the recipe that follows is not a dish that screams Italian food. I justified this in my mind; however, by assuring myself that the risotto method of cooking a grain, was a valid Italian method.
The results were delicious, simple and provided a wonderful Valentine’s Day dinner. Bizarrely, my attempt to overcome my aversion has provided me with a delightful challenge, one that I look forward to breaking. Chicken Parmesan might have to wait a little while, though…
Wild Mushroom Farrotto with Seared Sea Scallops(Serves Two)
1 lg. shallot, minced1 clove of garlic, minced
2 tbsp. butter¾ lb. shitake mushrooms, caps only, sliced
1 c. farro½ c. white wine
1 c. chicken stock2 c. water
6 ea. sea scallops (10 if scallops are small)1 tbsp. canola oil
Black truffle oil, as needed to garnish
1. Start by sweating the shallot and garlic in the butter over a medium flame until fragrant and translucent. Raise the heat to medium high and sauté the mushrooms until lightly golden, about five minutes. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.
2. Add the farro into the aromatic mixture and parch the grains, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Pour in the white wine and cook until evaporated. Next, add the chicken stock and stir. Allow to simmer until the stock has almost completely been absorbed.
3. Continue adding the water, about ½ cup at a time until the farro is cooked through, about 35 minutes total. Season with salt and pepper.
4. To prepare the scallops heat a heavy bottomed sauteuse over high heat. Add in the canola oil and swirl pan to coat. Season scallops with salt and pepper and sear until a deep golden brown crust forms, about 2 minutes. Turn scallops and cook 1 minute more until just cooked through.
5. To plate spoon the farrotto onto a plate and top with three scallops. Finish the plate with a very light drizzle of black truffle oil.
BPS Graduation Speaker: Jeffrey T. KmiecJeffrey Kmiec is
the President and Managing Director of
The Greenbrier.
Jeffrey Kmiec is President and Managing Director of The Greenbrier, a luxury resort, casino, golf club, and spa in White Sulphur Springs, WV. A National Historic
Landmark that has been welcoming guests since 1778, The Greenbrier earned the prestigious AAA Five Diamond award in 2012, an honor it has held for 36 consecutive years.
Mr. Kmiec joined The Greenbrier in August 2009 as Vice President of Sales and Marketing and was quickly promoted to Vice President and Managing Director by resort owner, Jim Justice. In 2010, Mr. Kmiec led the resort’s team in putting on events such as the inaugural Greenbrier Classic golf tournament and the grand opening of the Casino Club. Under his leadership, The Greenbrier’s social and group bookings have reached all-time record levels and continue to grow. He was promoted to his present position of President and Managing Director in January 2011.
Prior to coming on board at The Greenbrier, Mr. Kmiec was the Resort Director of Sales and Marketing
for Sawgrass Golf Resort & Spa in Jacksonville, FL, where he was responsible for the redevelopment, repositioning, and implementation of the sales, marketing, and public relations efforts. A hospitality sales and marketing veteran, Mr. Kmiec has also served as vice president of sales and marketing for Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, PA, as well as its parent company, 84 Lumber. His leadership of the group sales efforts at both Sawgrass and Nemacolin resulted in resort sales records.
Mr. Kmiec’s work at the resorts also provided him with extensive experience with PGA Tour events, particularly the 84 Lumber Classic, that was integral to his leadership in launching The Greenbrier Classic, a PGA Tour, FedEx Cup event, in 2010. The Classic was honored by the PGA Tour in 2011 with several top awards, earning recognition for Best in Class, Best Special Event and Best Branding and Signage in a field of 44 Tour events.
In addition to his work at The Greenbrier, Mr. Kmiec is active in numerous industry associations. A member of the board of directors for the West Virginia Hospitality & Travel Association, he is the organization’s Lodging Division President and American Hotel & Lodging Association (AHLA) board representative. Mr. Kmiec is also on the board of directors for The Greenbrier County Airport Authority and Greenbrier County Convention and Visitors Bureau.
He is a graduate of the University of Pittsburgh in Pittsburgh, PA with a Bachelor’s degree in mathematics.
Imagine farro being transformed into a risotto. Photo By: Epicurious.com
BY: ERIC JEFFAY, BPS Culinary
BY: ERIC JENKINS, BPS Culinary
BEER BLARNEY CABBAGECASTLE CELEBRATE CELTICCLOVER CORNED BEEF DUBLINEMERALD GREEN EMERALD ISLE GAELICGOLD GREEN HOLIDAY
IRELAND IRISH KISSINGLEPRECHAUN LUCKY MARCHPARADE PATRON POTPOT OF GOLD RAINBOW SAINT PAT-RICKSAINT PAT-RICKS DAY SEVEN-TEENTH SHAMROCK
The bones of which fish are found in Worcestershire Sauce?
Gluten-Free and Vegan*
(Makes 12)Ingredients * 1 ½ cups brown rice flour * 1/3 cup tapioca flour * 1 Tbsp. baking powder * ½ tsp. sea salt * ½ cup Earth Balance vegan butter * 1 tsp. maple syrup * 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar * ½ cup almond milk * 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract * 2 small zucchini, chopped * 2 Tbsp. ground flax seeds * 1/4 cup gluten-free cereal * 2 Tbsp. dried fruit leather, finely chopped * Topping: 2 tsp. balsamic vinegarDirections 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. 2. Place the flour, baking powder and sea salt into a medium mixing bowl; whisk to combine. Add in butter; continue to mix. 3. In a separate small bowl whisk together maple syrup, balsamic vinegar, milk and vanilla extract. Add to dry ingredients; mix well with hands until mixture thickens. Add zucchini, flax seeds, cereal and dried fruit leather and continue to mix. 4. Using a tablespoon, portion out golf ball-sized portions onto a cookie sheet. Drizzle each scone with balsamic and bake for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown. 5. Remove from oven; set aside to cool before serving. 6. Enjoy!
BY: AMIE VALPONE, NYC Blogger, The Healthy Apple
Amie Valpone is the author of the blog, The Healthy Apple.
CHEF TALK TRIVIA
In February of this year, The Culinary Institute of America lost two of its most beloved and celebrated sons. Chef Wayne Almquist passed away on Friday, February 10th and Chef Jim Heywood passed away on Sunday, February 12th. It would have been a sad event to lose either, but the fact that our community lost them both in a short period of time has highlighted the enormous impact they each had on the CIA.
Chef Almquist’s illustrious career took him all over the world and fortunately, for us, one of those places was the CIA. From the Waldorf-Astoria to Grenada, Wayne applied his culinary gift and passion for cooking everywhere he went. Enormous praise and awards also followed in his path.
In 1973, Wayne began his teaching career at The Culinary Institute, one that would last a remarkable thirty-seven years. Although he taught many different classes at the CIA, Wayne Almquist was best remembered for his incredible ability to develop students’ skills in foundational classes. Fellow teachers would often go to Wayne with any questions or just to seek his guidance on the skill development portion of the curriculum.
For over five years, Wayne Almquist served as the Ombudsman in the Student Affairs division. A constant stream of students sought out Chef Almquist to listen to their problems, concerns, or dilemmas. Sometimes the students would simply enjoy discussing their future plans with a man who took pride in offering assistance and guidance.
Wayne also played an integral part in the recruitment and orientation of new students. In addition to being a primary instructor for skill development, he advised school organizations for over twenty years. He volunteered as judge for student events, acted as the master of ceremonies for Bada Bingo, advised all group leaders on campus and spoke to all new students during new student orientation. Faculty and students knew that he was always willing to lend time and assistance after regular class hours had finished.
Above all, Chef Almquist was known for his dedication to the school and the enormous commitment he made to the tutelage of future chefs. He was a generous and warm person who viewed his career and station with an enormous sense of pleasure. For him, cooking was fun.
With his legendary razor sharp wit and devout allegiance to the students and the industry, Wayne was a chef and educator who made an enormous impact.
Teaching brought him purpose and he showed it with the devotion he showered on his students. Between choir and theater productions, instructing and leading, Chef Almquist was never tired of contributing to the success and well being of The Culinary Institute of America.
Chef Almiquist’s friend and contemporary, “Big Jim” Heywood, was also a force to be reckoned with. Well known for his buoyant charisma and deep sense of humor, Chef Heywood’s unique handshake and his unabashed fondness for those around him is what he will be remembered for. He spent a lifetime developing a long list of friends and admirers. Those who were close to Jim are deeply saddened
by his passing, but maintain that he would not want it that way. For him, life was a celebration, an opportunity to grow, teach and inspire those around him. Food was his life.
Chef Heywood was the longest serving faculty member in the Institute’s history. He was first a student at the CIA’s New Haven Campus and after graduating, became a teaching assistant (what is now known as a Manager-in-Training). Soon after, Chef Heywood was promoted to senior fellowship and, finally, a member of the faculty, where he served the CIA faithfully for several decades.
While a faculty member at The Culinary Institute, Jim Heywood cultivated a passion for perfecting chili. He established the chili cook-off as a way to further students’ enthusiasm for cooking in a fun environment and promote camaraderie through healthy competition. Jim’s “Hogsbreath Chili” was famous for its heat and for being the name of the truck he drove to school.
Chef Corky Clark feels that Jim didn’t look at himself as a teacher, but as a coach; Chef Heywood believed that the student was the star and his job was to guide him or her. His goal at the CIA was to promote the development of future chefs and to inspire them to push themselves. Chef David Barry saw Chef Heywood as a mentor who fostered a deep sense of commitment to the craft and fellow chefs. To Chef Barry, Mr. Heywood embodied the qualities that one looks for in a leader, and in doing so,
made his students want to be leaders themselves. His legacy at the CIA is well documented through the many great chefs he guided through training and throughout their careers.
The CIA has indeed lost two of our guiding, innovative chefs and educators who have made their mark in our industry. They both have certainly influenced many students at the school and will forever be remembered.
For donations or online condolences for Chef Almquist, please visit the web site: www.torsonememorial.com. In lieu of flowers, the
family requests that donations may be made to the Wayne Almquist Memorial Scholarship at The Culinary Institute America, 1946 Campus
Drive, Hyde Park, New York 12538.
For information on Jim Heywood, his obituary can be found at http://www.legacy.
com/obituaries/poughkeepsiejournal/obituary.aspx?n=james-heywood&pid=155916615.
There is also a scholarship being set up with instructions in the obituary.
BY: BRAD NELSON, AOS Culinary
Chef Heywood in an old issue of La Papillote. Photo Provided By: La Papillote
Chef Wayne Almquist hosting a demo at the CIA.Photo By: http://joshthomsen.com/
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