Jacobean Fantasy - DecoArt · Web view30 Self-adhesive 6 mm half-pearls (available from Michaels) Self-adhesive Pearl Flourish, Item #446138, (available from Hobby Lobby) Color Mixes

Tulips and SwirlsLinda Sharp, CDA

© 2016

I love anything Shabby Chic!I love roses…soft colors…pinks…greens…pale yellows and soft blues.

SUPPLIES

DecoArt Traditions Acrylic Burnt Sienna (DAT44) Carbon Black (DAT42) Cerulean Blue (DAT28) Hansa Yellow (DAT14) Light Pearl (DAT48) Medium White (DAT37) Naphthol Red (DAT02) Permanent Alizarin Crimson (DAT51) Raw Sienna (DAT43) Sap Green (DAT59) Titanium White (DAT35) Warm White (DAT36) Yellow Oxide (DAT12)

DecoArt Traditions Mediums Extender and Blending Medium (DATM02) Glazing Medium (DATM01) Satin Varnish (DATM04)

DecoArt Media Fluid Acrylics Fluid Acrylics Translucent White (DMFA40)

DecoArt Media Specialty Products Decou-Page Matte (DS106)

Brushes #3 Round Brush ¼”, ⅜”, ½”, ¾” Angle brushes ¾” Flat or Oval Wash brush 10/0 liner brush #4, 6 Filberts ¾” mop

Other Supplies 2” See through Ruler

Brayer (optional) Chalk Pencil Eraser Palette Knife Paper Towels Small tipped stylus Tacky Glue Tracing Paper Transfer paper (gray) Water container Wax Palette Wet Palette

Surface and Embellishments 8 x 8” Masonite box panel, Masonite panel, or canvas Soft Pink Lace Background Paper ½ yard ½” flat lace of your choice 30 Self-adhesive 6 mm half-pearls (available from Michaels) Self-adhesive Pearl Flourish, Item #446138, (available from Hobby Lobby)

INSTRUCTIONS

NOTE: Please refer to the instructions, pattern and color photos as you are painting.

Color Mixes Mix colors on your wax palette and transfer to a wet palette. Spritz with water to keep paper towel moist. If kept airtight, the palette will keep for months.

Ratios are approximate.

Tulip Mix: 2 parts Naphthol Red + 2 parts Warm White + 1 part Yellow Oxide

Medium Green: (add Carbon Black a little at a time so it doesn’t get too dark too fast)5 parts Hansa Yellow + 1 part Carbon Black

Blue Mix: 3 parts Cerulean Blue + 1 part Medium White

Surface Prep1. Apply one coat of Decou-Page Matte to the surface and to the back side of the background

paper. Place paper on the surface and smooth out any wrinkles working from the middle towards the edges. A brayer works well. Apply another coat of Decou-Page Matte to the front of the paper. Allow to dry 24 hours if possible.

2. Apply one thin coat of Glazing Medium and dry well. Put the pattern on using gray transfer paper and a very light touch. Trace stems, small leaves, daisies ONLY the outside edge of the border, the outside edge of the tulip (DO NOT trace the inside petals), outside edge of the two large leaves, and the outer petals of the blue flowers.

3. Before painting stems, leaves and tendrils the background needs to be shaded. Apply a thin coat of Extender and Glazing Medium to the entire surface EXCEPT the border area using a ¾” angle brush. Wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Dress the same ¾” brush in Extender and Blending Medium and blot on a paper towel. DO NOT rinse the brush and do not use water until finished with this step. Water will act as a solvent and lift your shading. Side-load into the Tulip Mix and blend well on the palette. Walk the color out on the palette so it is very soft. Shade along the outside edges of the border stripe, the area inside the tendrils and along the bottom edge and bottom right corner. Soften with a mop.

4. Base the border stripe in with one thin coat of Translucent White using a ¾” oval wash brush. You want to be able to see the background paper through the paint, so the white strokes will show.

5. Base tulip with Rose Mix using a #6 filbert and shape following strokes.6. Base blue flowers with Blue Mix and a #6 filbert. Add a little Blue Mix in the border and on

the outside edges.7. Add a second layer of petals to the blue flowers. These inner petals are painted smaller and

have a darker center. Stay inside the outer petals. Load a ¼” angle brush with the Cerulean Blue. Tip the toe (long edge of the brush in Warm White and blend well on the palette. You want to see dark, medium and light values on the brush for each petal. Pick up more of each color as needed; it isn’t necessary to completely reload each time. Paint petals inside and on top of the first layer of petals.

8. The daisy petals are painted with tipped comma strokes using three colors. Put some Tulip Mix, Yellow Oxide and Warm White out on your palette. Load a #3 round with Tulip Mix, working the paint into the bristles of the brush. Holding the brush perpendicular to the surface, tip first into Yellow Oxide by swirling the tip of the brush in paint and tap the tip to the palette a few times. In the same manner, tip into Warm White, touch the tip of the brush to the palette a couple of times to offload some of the paint before pulling the stroke. This also breaks the tension on the brush. Set the brush down and let the tip rest a few seconds. This allows the bristles to spread out and as you pull the stroke, you will see all the colors in the brush. As you re-load and pick up color on the brush and tap off, each petal will look different. Remember to reload after each stroke.

9. The Daisy and small Blue Flower centers are the same. Working wet on wet so the colors blend, pick up some Raw Sienna on a #3 round and dab in the center. Add some Burnt Sienna on the shadow side and Yellow Oxide in the highlight area. If necessary, add a little Raw Sienna back in to blend and soften the three values. Add some Hansa Yellow as a final highlight.

10. Using a small stylus, add Burnt Sienna dots in the shadow area. Add Yellow Oxide dots in the highlight area. Final highlights are Warm White dots.

11. The tulip is painted with tipped comma strokes using four colors in the same manner as the daisies. Add Permanent Alizarin Crimson to your palette. Load a #3 round brush with Permanent Alizarin Crimson, working the paint into the bristles of the brush. Holding the brush perpendicular to the surface, tip first into Tulip Mix by swirling the tip of the brush in paint and tap the tip to the palette a few times. In the same manner, tip into Yellow Oxide followed by Warm White, touching the tip of the brush to the palette a couple of times to offload some of the paint before pulling the stroke. Remember to set the brush down and let the tip rest a few seconds. You will see a variety of colors in the strokes as you re-load the brush and tap off and each petal will look different. Remember to reload after each stroke.

12. Define the center petal by painting strokes on both sides following the shape of the tulip, working your way into the center, ending with a small straight comma stroke in the center. Reload after each stroke.

13. Paint the rest of the flower in the same manner, working the side petals from the outside in.14. Looking at the photo, add more petals on top of the first petals. These petals are on top and

can have a little more Yellow Oxide or Warm White when tipping.15. When the strokes are completely dry, side-load a ½” angle brush with Permanent Alizarin

Crimson and shade across the bottom of the tulip. While it is still wet, shade the inside of the tulip, separating the outside petals from the center. If desired, shade behind some of the strokes to separate and add depth and definition.

16. Stems are painted with a 10/0 liner and thinned Medium Green. 17. Paint the calyx with a #3 round loaded with Sap Green and tipped with Yellow Oxide and a

little Warm White. Pull from the center out. Paint the dot at the base of the tulip with Medium Green. Tap Yellow Oxide on the top of the center dot.

18. Paint the tendrils using a 10/0 liner loaded with brush mix of thinned Medium Green + Sap Green.

19. Load a #3 round brush with Sap Green and tip with Yellow Oxide. Paint the large stroke leaves starting with the center top stroke, pulling the tail all the way down creating a center vein line. Paint strokes on both sides as you work your way to the base of the leaf, pulling the tails into the center vein line you created with the first stroke. Add smaller highlight strokes by tipping into a little more Yellow Oxide and a little Warm White.

20. Paint the smaller, one-stroke leaves using a #4 filbert loaded with brush mix of Medium Green + a little Medium White, just enough to lighten green. Paint the leaves by setting the brush down and lifting off to form a tip. One coat is sufficient.

21. Shade each leaf using a ¼” angle brush side-loaded with Sap Green + a touch of Carbon Black.

22. Using a liner brush add veins lines with a brush mix of thinned Sap Green + Yellow Oxide + a little Warm White. Add some highlights to the curve of the tendril.

23. Using a #3 round brush loaded with Titanium White, set the brush down and lift to form the petals of these filler flowers. Paint petals in clusters of three, getting smaller as you move away from the main design. Add Titanium White filler dots here and there throughout using a small stylus.

24. Trace lace heart on using a very light touch. Add a thin wash of Tulip Mix + Medium White to the heart area. Side-load a ¼” angle brush with Titanium White and paint a ruffle around the heart. Using a 10/0 liner and thinned Titanium White, paint the cross-hatching in the cent of the heart. Load the liner fully with Titanium White and paint two heart outlines around the cross-hatching.

25. Cut the pearl flourish in half and place above the heart. Cut a couple small swirls from the remaining piece and add to the side. Load a #3 round brush with Titanium White and paint comma strokes around and in between the pearls. See photo for placement ideas for strokes.

26. Apply two coats of satin varnish. Glue lace on the sides of the border. Place self-adhesive half pearls around the heart and on the lace as desired.

27. Sign your painting and enjoy!