Overhaul Manual di 2.2 and se 2.2 TK 8009-3-OM (Rev. 3, 05/01) Copyright © 2000 Thermo King Corp., Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A. Printed in U.S.A.
Overhaul Manual
di 2.2 andse 2.2
TK 8009-3-OM (Rev. 3, 05/01)
Copyright© 2000 Thermo King Corp., Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.Printed in U.S.A.
This manual is published for informational purposes only and the information so provided should not be consideredas all-inclusive or covering all contingencies. If further information is required, Thermo King Corporation should beconsulted.
Sale of product shown in this manual is subject to Thermo King’s terms and conditions including, but not limited to,the Thermo King Limited Express Warranty. Such terms and conditions are available upon request.
Thermo King’s warranty will not apply to any equipment which has been “so repaired or altered outside the manu-facturer’s plants as, in the manufacturer’s judgment, to effect its stability.”
No warranties, express or implied, including warranties of fitness for a particular purpose or merchantabil-ity, or warranties arising from course of dealing or usage of trade, are made regarding the information, rec-ommendations, and descriptions contained herein. Manufacturer is not responsible and will not be heldliable in contract or in tort (including negligence) for any special, indirect or consequential damages,including injury or damage caused to vehicles, contents or persons, by reason of the installation of anyThermo King product or its mechanical failure.
This manual covers the overhaul, repair and maintenance
procedures for Thermo King di and se 2.2 diesel engines.
Design changes and improvements have been made to the di
and se 2.2 engines over the years in a continuing effort by
Thermo King to provide the latest in diesel engine technol-
ogy. Before beginning any service to your engine, please
review the engine chart on page 108 to determine which
version di or se 2.2 engine you have. Doing so will help
assist the mechanic with determining special service proce-
dures and interchangeability of components between the
various engines.
Although the di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines are different ver-
sions of the same engine, the following components are not
interchangeable: Injection pump, gear case cover, gear case
backing plate, oil base, transfer pump, flywheel housing,
intake and exhaust manifolds, oil filter and housing, crank-
case breather, water pump, thermostat housing and timing
gears.
Refer to the Parts Interchange Section located in the rear
of the manual.
APA06
Thermo King di 2.2 Diesel Engine
All Thermo King 2.2 diesel engines are four cylinder, four
stroke, water cooled engines that use a direct injection fuel
system.
The engines are configured so that all maintenance can be
performed from one side of the engine.
This heavy duty engine is designed with five main bearings
on the crankshaft. Its rugged construction, when combined
with a routine preventive maintenance program, will pro-
vide many hours of satisfactory service.
Eventually, even the best designed engines require an over-
haul. This manual provides the proper procedures to restore
the engine to a rebuilt condition. A properly rebuilt engine
will provide thousands of further hours of satisfactory ser-
vice.
The specifications section lists the sizes and tolerances
used in the original assembly of the engine. All tables for
oversize and wear limits for particular components are
found in the sections dealing with these specific compo-
nents.
Thermo King se 2.2 Diesel Engine
Table of Contents
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Engine Disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Inspection and Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Cylinder Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Timing Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Transfer Pump Cam Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Valve Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23Cylinder Head Valve Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Valve Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Rocker Arm Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Push Rods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29Lifters. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Pistons. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Wrist Pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Connecting Rods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Manifold. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Oil Filter Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Oil Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Engine Breathing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Engine Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Assembly Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Cam Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Crankshaft Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48Rear Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Rear Crankshaft Seals and Seal Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49Front Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Idler Gear Support. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Flywheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Pistons and Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Connecting Rods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Valve Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Oil Filter Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59Bellhousing / Oil Pan Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Manifolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63Injection Nozzles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Table of Contents—continued
Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Bleeding the Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Hand Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Injection Nozzles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Transfer Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Transfer Pump Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Installation and Timing of Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Gear Reduction Starter (Hitachi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Starter Disassembly and Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Glow Plugs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Run In Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Engine Run In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Bleeding Air from the Coolant System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Dynamometer Run In Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Valve Clearance Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Testing Engine Compression. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Parts Interchange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103se 2.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Injection Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Gear Mounting Flange Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Oil Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Transfer Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Flywheel Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Crankcase Breather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Thermostat Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Intake and Exhaust Manifolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
1
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications
The following specifications are given for a standard engine. Except where noted, the specifications for both engines are the
same. For oversize tables or allowable wear limits, refer to the appropriate section in the text.
GeneralType Four Stroke, Four Cycle, Water CooledNumber of Cylinders 4Cylinder Arrangement In-line Vertical, Number 1 at pulley endBore 3.465 in. (88 mm nominal)Stroke 3.622 in. (92 mm nominal)Displacement 136.6 cu in. (2238.5 cm3)Horsepower 34.8 @ 2200 rpmFuel Injection TimingRefer to engine chart on page 108to determine correct timing.
0.02 in. (0.5 mm) @ 14 BTDC (timed on No. 1 cylinder)0.02 in. (0.5 mm) @ 6 BTDC (timed on No. 1 cylinder)
Valve lash:Intake (cold) 0.016 in. (0.40 mm)Exhaust (cold) 0.016 in. (0.40 mm)
Firing order 1-3-4-2Compression ratio 20:1Compression pressure More than 427 psi (2942 kPa) @ 250 rpmHigh speed (transport units)* 2200 rpm (Varies with unit. Check specific unit manual)Low speed (transport units)* 1300 to 1350 rpm (Varies with unit. Check specific unit manual)Oil pressure (hot) More than 43 psi (294 kPa) @ 1400 rpm
More than 64 psi (441 kPa) @ 2200 rpmNozzle injection pressure 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa)Oil base capacity 16 qts (15.2 liters)Engine serial number Stamped on cylinder block just above oil filterEngine rotation Clockwise (viewed from pulley end)
Valve Spring and GuideValve Spring:
Free Length 1.81 in. (46 mm)Inclination 0.118 in. (3.0 mm)Set length 1.52 in. (38.6 mm)Tension at set length 43.4 lb (19.7 kg)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter:Intake 0.3150 to 0.3156 in. (8.001 to 8.017 mm)Exhaust 0.3150 to 0.3156 in. (8.001 to 8.017 mm)
Valve Stem Outside Diameter:Intake 0.3128 to 0.3141 in. (7.946 to 7.978 mm)Exhaust 0.3119 to 0.3131 in. (7.921 to 7.953 mm)
* Consult the applicable service manual for correct speed settings.
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)
2
Valve Spring and Guide (continued)Valve Stem Clearance:
Intake 0.0015 to 0.0028 in. (0.039 to 0.071 mm)0.0025 to 0.0034 in. (0.064 to 0.086 mm)Exhaust
Valve Guide set depth (from valve spring seat):Intake 0.475 in. (12.07 mm)
0.475 in. (12.07 mm)ExhaustValve Depth
Intake 0.011 negative to 0.007 in. positive (0.275 to 0.175 mm)Exhaust 0.011 negative to 0.007 in. positive (0.275 to 0.175 mm)
Valve Seat angle 45 degreesValve Face angle 45 degreesValve Seat contact width:
Intake 0.054 to 0.069 in. (1.38 to 1.76 mm)Exhaust 0.048 to 0.063 in. (1.22 to 1.60 mm)
Valve margin 0.051 in. (1.3 mm)
Valve TrainLifter diameter 0.5108 in. (12.97 mm)Lifter clearance to block 0.0004 to 0.0016 in. (0.01 to 0.4 mm)Push rod length 8.150 in. (207 mm)Rocker arm bore 0.7484 to 0.7500 in. (19.01 to 19.05 mm)
0.7476 to 0.7480 in. (18.99 to 19.00 mm)Rocker arm shaft diameterRocker arm to shaft clearance 0.0004 to 0.0024 in. (0.01 to 0.06 mm)
CamshaftLobe height:
Intake 1.5913 in. (40.42 mm)Exhaust 1.5984 in. (40.60 mm)
Cam lift:Intake 0.245 in. (6.22 mm)Exhaust 0.252 in. (6.40 mm)Cam bearing bore 1.9682 to 1.9710 in.(49.99 to 50.06 mm)Journal diameters 1.9670 to 1.9675 in. (49.96 to 49.97 mm)Clearance to bearing 0.0010 to 0.0034 in. (0.025 to 0.085 mm)End play (set by thrust plate) 0.002 to 0.004 in. (0.05 to 0.11 mm)
Piston, Piston RingsPiston, type: Cam ground-full float pin
DiameterGrade A 3.4633 to 3.4640 in. (87.967 to 87.986 mm)
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)
3
Piston, Piston Rings (continued) Grade B 3.4637 to 3.4644 in. (87.977 to 87.996 mm)Grade C 3.4641 to 3.4648 in. (87.987 to 88.006 mm)Grade D 3.4644 to 3.4652 in. (87.997 to 88.016 mm)
Clearance to cylinder wall 0.0020 to 0.0025 in. (0.051 to 0.064 mm)Wrist pin bore 1.2206 to 1.2209 in. (31.002 to 31.010 mm)Projection above block 0.022 to 0.040 in. (0.572 to 1.018 mm)
Piston ringsRing to groove clearance (top side):
No. 1 compression 0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm)0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm)0.0017 to 0.0037 in. (0.043 to 0.094 mm)
No. 2 compressionNo. 3 compressionNo. 4 oil control 0.0019 to 0.0037 in. (0.048 to 0.094 mm)
Ring end gap:No.1 0.004 to 0.014 in. (0.10 to 0.35 mm)No. 2 0.008 to 0.014 in. (0.20 to 0.35 mm)No. 3 0.006 to 0.012 in. (0.15 to 0.30 mm)No. 4 0.004 to 0.014 in. (0.10 to 0.35 mm)
Piston Wrist Pin:Length 2.795 in. (71 mm)
Outside diameter 1.2205 in. (31 mm)Inside diameter 0.709 in. (18 mm)Clearance to rod bushing 0.0004 to 0.0008 in. (0.01 to 0.02 mm)
Connecting RodsLarge-end bore 2.205 in. (56 mm)Allowable twist per 4 in. (100 mm) Less than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm)Allowable parallelism per 4 in.(100mm)Less than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm)Side clearance to journal 0.007 to 0.011 in. (0.175 to 0.290 mm)Width 1.30 in. (33 mm)
CrankshaftMain bearing I.D. 2.3608 in. to 2.3622 (59.96 to 60.00 mm)Main bearing journal diameter 2.3589 to 2.3595 in. (59.917 to 59.932 mm)Main bearing clearance 0.0013 to 0.0033 in. (0.035 to 0.083 mm)Rod bearing I.D. 2.0859 to 2.0849 (52.98 to 52.96 mm)Rod bearing journal diameter 2.0832 to 2.0838 in. (52.915 to 52.930 mm) Rod bearing clearance 0.0011 to 0.0027 in. (0.029 to 0.069 mm)Rear seal surface diameter 3.937 in. (100 mm)Crankshaft end play 0.002 to 0.008 in. (0.05 to 0.20 mm)
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)
4
Cylinder BlockMain bearing bore 2.5197 in. (64 mm)Lifter bore 0.5110 to 0.5125 in. (12.98 to 13.018 mm)Cylinder wall finish 16 micro-inch
Timing Gears (varies with engine model)Gear width:
Crank gear 1.024 in. (26 mm)Idler gear, camshaft 1.535 in. (39 mm)Idler gear, injection pump 0.669 in. (17 mm)Injection pump gear 0.669 in. (17 mm)Camshaft gear 1.024 in. (26 mm)
Idler gear, crankshaft:Bushing inside diameter 1.7717 to 1.7728 in. (45.000 to 45.030 mm)Support diameter 1.7695 to 1.7707 in. (44.945 to 44.975 mm)Bushing to support clearance 0.0010 to 0.0033 in. (0.025 to 0.085 mm)
Timing gear backlash:Crank gear to camshaft idler gear 0.0023 to 0.0035 in. (0.058 to 0.090 mm)Camshaft idler gear to injection pump idler gear
0.0004 to 0.0075 in. (0.010 to 0.189 mm)
Injection pump idler gear to injection pump gear 0.0012 to 0.0041 in. (0.030 to 0.105 mm)
0.0024 to 0.0035 in. (0.061 to 0.089 mm)Camshaft idler gear to camshaft gear
Cylinder HeadHeight 3.62 in. (92 mm)Valve seat material Martensitic heat resisting steelValve seat insert bore (intake) 1.5748 to 1.5760 in. (40 to 40.03 mm)Valve seat insert bore (exhaust) 1.3386 to 1.3398 in. (34 to 34.03 mm)Valve seat outside diameter:
Intake 1.5791 to 1.5799 in. (40.11 to 40.13 mm)Exhaust 1.3429 to 1.3437 in. (34.11 to 34.13 mm)
Bore for valve guides 0.5512 to 0.5520 in. (14.000 to 14.021 mm)Valve guide O.D. 0.5522 to 0.5528 in. (14.026 to 14.040 mm)
Lubrication SystemOil pump
Type Gear pumpDelivery volume 4.15 gal/min. (15.7 liters) @ 1,000 pump rpmRelief Valve set at 40 to 65 psi (275 to 448 kPa)
Oil filter bypass valve set at 11 to 17 psi (78 to 118 kPa)
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)
5
Gear to body clearance 0.0020 to 0.0032 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm)Gear to cover clearance 0.0020 to 0.0045 in. (0.050 to 0.114 mm)
Oil type CD or CG-4 grade20, 30, 40, 50, 20W or 10W30
Oil change interval Consult applicable service manual for oil change intervalOil filter full flow:
Large capacity Thermo King P/N 11-9100Standard capacity Thermo King P/N 11-9099Dual element Thermo King P/N 11-7382
Fuel SystemNozzle type NP-DLLA154PInjection Pressure 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa)Tightening torque 27.5 ft-lb (37 N.m)Injection lines, O.D. 0.236 in. (6 mm)Injection lines, I.D. 0.055 in. (1.4 mm)Injection timed at:
First Generation engines 14 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) Second Generation engines 14 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm)Third Generation engines 6 BTDC 0.020 in. (0.5 mm)
Transfer pump lobe lift 0.197 in. (5.0 mm)Injection pump rotation Counterclockwise (viewed from gear end)
Electrical SystemGlow plug type SheathedThread size 12 mm x 1.25 mmRated voltage 11 voltsRated current 7.1 amperesResistance 1.55 ohmsStarter motor (Hitachi):
Voltage 12 V dcRotation (viewed from pinion end) ClockwiseClutch Over-running clutchMethod of engagement Magnetically-engaged sliding pinionPull-in current of solenoid 57 ampsHold-in current of solenoid 20 ampsBrush tension 716 oz (3.2 kg)
No Load:Voltage 11 voltsCurrent Less than 140 amperesRPM More than 3,900 rpm
Loaded:
di 2.2 & se 2.2 Diesel Engine Specifications (Rev. 05/01)
6
Voltage 8.76 voltsCurrent 300 amperesTorque More than 6.1 ft-lb (8.3 N.m)Horsepower 1.8 hp (1.3 kw)RPM 1500 rpmLocked rotor 3V at less than 880 amps with more than 18.8 ft-lb (25.5 N.m) of torque
7
Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines
Torque
Part No.Dia.
mm (in.)Pitch
mm (tpi)Lengthmm (in.) N.m ft-lbs.
Bellhousing Reamer Bolt 55-5463 10 1.25 70 41 30
Bellhousing to Block Mtg Bolt 55-5476 10 1.25 55 41 30
Bellhousing to Block Mtg Bolt 55-5478 8 1.25 55 19 14
Bellhousing to Block Mtg Bolt 55-5477 10 1.25 135 41 30
Bellhousing to Oil Pan Mtg Bolt 55-5429 12 1.75 40 76 56
Camshaft Gear Mtg 55-3454 12 1.5 47 110 74
Camshaft Idler Gear Hollow Bolt 55-5499 8 1.25 23 19 14
Camshaft Idler Gear Mtg Bolt 55-5559 8 1.25 70 19 14
Camshaft Rear Bearing Cover Bolt 8 1.25 20 19 14
Camshaft Thrust Plate Mtg Bolt 55-2443 8 1.25 16 19 14
Connecting Rod Bolt 55-2435 11 1.25 56 84 62
Crankcase Breather Assy Bolt 55-5467 10 1.25 25 41 30
Crankcase Breather Assy Bolt 55-5513 10 1.25 30 41 30
Crankcase Breather Assy Bolt 55-5512 10 1.25 28 41 30
Crankcase Breather Assy Nut 55-5468 8 1.25 19 14
Crankcase Breather Assy Stud 55-5466 8 1.25 28 19 14
Crankcase Bolt (front) 55-5490 16 1.5 40 218 161
Cylinder Head Mtg Bolt 55-5451 11 1.5 122 85 63
Exhaust Manifold Flange Mtg Bolt 55-0139 (5/16) (18) (1.00) 19 14
Exhaust Manifold Mtg Bolt 55-5507 8 1.25 30 19 14
Exhaust Manifold Mtg Studs 55-5454 8 1.25 40 19 14
Exhaust Manifold Mtg Studs 55-5454 8 1.25 60 19 14
Flywheel Housing Reamer Nut 55-5465 10 1.25 41 30
Flywheel Rear Plate to Block Bolt 555464 10 1.25 40 41 30
Flywheel Rear Plate to Block Bolt 55-5465 8 1.25 35 19 14
Flywheel Mtg Bolt 55-4513 14 1.5 35 117 86
Front Plate Mtg Bolt 55-5456 8 1.25 20 19 14
Fuel Leak Off Line 55-2467 8 1.25 18 15 11
Glow Plug (base thread) 44-6601 12 1.25 22 16
Injection line 11-589 12 1.5 30 22
Injection Nozzle Retaining Nut 55-2430 10 1.25 37 27
Injection Nozzle Retaining Stud 55-5452 10 1.25 75 37 27
Injection Pump Bleeder Screw 55-2024 6 1.0 10 5 4
Injection Pump Fuel Feed Hollow Screw 55-2034 14 1.5 29 28 21
Torque Values for di 2.2 & se 2.2 Engines (Rev. 05/01)
8
Injection Pump Idler Gear Mtg Bolt 55-5491 12 1.25 67 103 76
Injection Pump Mtg Bolt, brkt to brkt 55-5521 8 1.25 19 14
Injection Pump Mtg Bolt, brkt to block 55-5523 8 1.25 19 14
Intake Manifold Mtg Bolt 55-5506 8 1.25 25 19 14
Intake Manifold Mtg Studs 55-5453 8 1.25 32 19 14
Intake Manifold Nut 55-5468 8 1.25 1 in. 22 16
Main Bearing Bolt 55-2411 12 1.5 97 170 125
Oil Fill Tube Mtg Bolt 55-3531 6 1.0 11 8
Oil Filter Assy Mtg Bolt 55-5417 10 1.25 80 41 30
Oil Filter Assy Mtg Bolt 55-5498 10 1.25 45 41 30
Oil Pan Mtg Bolt 55-5485 8 1.25 25 19 14
Oil Pan Mtg Bolt 55-5486 8 1.25 40 19 14
Oil Pipe Clip Bolt 55-2462 8 1.25 12 19 14
Oil Pump Mtg Bolt 55-5488 8 1.25 30 19 14
Rocker Arm Baffle Access Panel Screw 55-5457 4 .7 10 2 1.5
Rocker Arm Cover Cap Nut (special) 55-5458 8 1.25 12 9
Rocker Arm Cover Mtg Bolt 55-5495 10 1.25 65 54 40
Starter Bolt 55-5515 12 1.25 65 61 45
Starter Bolt Nut 55-5516 12 1.25 61 45
Thermostat Adapter Mtg Bolt 55-5455 8 1.25 18 19 14
Timing Gear Cover Mtg Bolt 55-5473 8 1.25 60 19 14
Timing Gear Cover Mtg Bolt 55-5471 8 1.25 45 19 14
Timing Gear Cover Mtg Bolt 55-5470 8 1.25 30 19 14
Timing Gear Cover Mtg Bolt 55-5472 8 1.25 75 19 14
Timing Gear Cover Mtg Stud 55-5453 8 1.25 40 19 14
Transfer Pump Mtg Bolt 6 1.0 18 8 6
Transfer Pump Mtg Bolt Nut 6 1.0 8 6
Water Pump Mtg Bolt 55-5470 8 1.25 30 19 14
Water Pump Mtg Nut 55-5468 8 1.25 19 14
Torque
Part No.Dia.
mm (in.)Pitch
mm (tpi)Lengthmm (in.) N.m ft-lbs.
9
Engine Disassembly
NOTE: Before disassembling the engine, drain the engineoil and coolant, disconnect the battery cables, and removethe engine from the unit.
1. Remove the starter.
2. Remove the fuel injection nozzle-to-pump return lines.
3. Remove the fuel injection lines. Cover all injection
lines and fuel lines with plastic covers or tape. The
smallest amount of dirt can damage the fuel system.
4. Remove the intake manifold assembly, but leave the
mounting studs in.
5. Remove the glow plug bus bar.
6. Remove the glow plugs using a deep well socket.
7. Remove the exhaust manifold (and the exhaust restric-
tion on early engines that are so equipped).
8. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Remove the crankcase breather assembly
10. Remove the fuel injection nozzle return lines (short
lengths of black hose).
11. Remove the injection nozzles. Remove the retainer nut
and special washer. Then using a pry bar, carefully pry
up on the retainer. The nozzle and the retainer should
come out together. Follow the instructions in the note
below for handling the copper sealing washer.
NOTE: Unlike the C201 nozzles, the di and se 2.2 noz-zles have only one sealing washer. It is a heavy, thick,tapered copper washer (tapered side down). Replacethe washer each time the nozzle is removed. If thecopper washer does not come off easily, slowly warmit to ease removal.
NOTE: The retainer cannot be removed without alsoremoving the nozzle. If the nozzle is stuck in the cylinderhead and does not come out, continued prying coulddamage the threads. If the nozzle is stuck, make a specialtool from an old injection line box nut. Use the special
tool to remove the nozzle.
1. Retainer 2. Special Tool
Removing Injection Nozzles
1. Brazed Stop Nut 3. Straightened Injection Line
2. Sliding Weight 4. Box Nut
Special Tool for Stuck Nozzles
2
1
1
2
3
4
Engine Disassembly (Rev. 5/01)
10
12. Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the three
cap nuts. Inspect the rubber washers under the cap nuts
and replace if necessary during assembly.
13. Remove the rocker arm support mounting bolts by
alternately turning each bolt one turn at a time. This
evenly releases the valve spring pressure on the rocker
arm assembly. Remove the rocker arm assembly.
14. Remove the push rods. Keep them in order if they are
to be reused.
15. Remove the hose between the thermostat housing and
the water pump. Remove the thermostat housing.
Remove the water pump.
16. Remove the oil filter assembly.
17. Remove the fuel transfer pump.
18. Remove the front crankshaft bolt. A breaker bar may be
needed.
19. Remove the crankshaft pulley boss. The boss is a slip
fit, but it may require the use of a puller.
20. Remove the timing gear cover.
21. Place three of the timing gear cover bolts in the injec-
tion pump and tighten. Check the timing gear lash at
this point. If the lash is within specifications, there is a
good possibility that the gears are reusable. If the lash
is excessive, replace the gears.
22. Remove the timing gear cover bolts from the injection
pump. If necessary, remove the two block-to-bracket
bolts on the lower injection pump mounting bracket.
Not all engines are equipped with the lower bracket.
Remove the injection pump.
23. Remove the transfer pump cam oil feed line.
24. Remove the injection pump idler gear.
25. Remove the camshaft idler gear.
26. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown.
This requires removing all injection nozzles. Remove
the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head.
Pry slots are provided in case the head should stick.
NOTE: Do not set the head face down with the glowplugs installed or the glow plug tips will be damaged.
1. Reinstall 3 Bolts
Checking Timing Gear Lash
1
Engine Disassembly (Rev. 5/01)
11
27. Remove the bell housing.
28. Carefully mark the flywheel so it can be reinstalled in
its original position and remove the flywheel.
29. Remove the rear plate. Note that two oil pan bolts
beneath the plate must be removed to free the plate.
NOTE: The oil pan has small slots on the mountingface to assist in removal.
30. Remove the front plate.
31. Make sure that all oil is drained from the oil pan.
1 9 16 8
2 7
3
4
11
12
18
13
14
5
6
10 17 15
Cylinder Head Bolt Removal
APA122
Rear Plate Removal
NOTE: Refer to engine chart on page 108 to deter-mine which oil pan you have. Late style engines aremanufactured with a two piece oil pan which shouldNOT be disassembled. The separate halves CAN NOTBE SPLIT while on the engine. DO NOT DISAS-SEMBLE the oil pan - only remove as one assembly.
If the pan should accidentally be disassembled, coatthe sealing surfaces with silicone sealer and torque
the socket head screws (8 mm or 10 mm) as shown.
32. Remove the oil pump and the oil supply pipe.
33. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps. Remove the
pistons and connecting rods up through the top of the
cylinder bore after removing the ring ridge, if neces-
sary. Mark each piston with its cylinder number.
34. Arrange the connecting rods, bearings caps and pistons
in order if they are to be reused. The connecting rods
and caps are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 by the manufac-
turer. Marking is not normally needed.
35. Alternately loosen the main bearing cap bolts and
remove the bolts and caps. The main bearing caps are
factory marked so they need not be marked.
10 mm Mounting Bolts 36.0 ft-lbs. (6.9 N•m)
8 mm Mounting Bolts24.5 ft-lbs.(4.9 N•m)
Two Piece Oil Pan
Engine Disassembly (Rev. 5/01)
12
NOTE: The cast-in arrows on the main bearings capspoint to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). Themain bearing caps are also numbered, with No. 1
being the rear (flywheel end) main cap.
Main Bearing Position
36. Remove the crankshaft. Note the orientation of the
thrust bearings for proper installation of the bearings
during assembly. Remove the thrust bearings and the
upper main bearing inserts.
37. Remove the bolts from the camshaft thrust plate and
remove the camshaft.
1. Front 3. Rear Flywheel End
2. Middle 4. Embossed “C”
1. Thrust Plate Bolts
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts
1 2 3
4
1
38. Remove the cam bearings.
NOTE: Cam bearings can be damaged by the solventsused to clean the block. New cam bearings should alwaysbe installed when an engine is overhauled. The cam bear-ings supplied by Service Parts are semi-finished and willneed to be line bored by a machine shop. Always check thebearings against the cam shaft before installing.
39. With a valve lapping tool, remove the lifters after
removing the camshaft.
NOTE: Remove the rear camshaft bearing coverbefore cleaning the engine block with solvents. Thecap is aluminum and may be damaged by certaincleaners.
1. Lifter 2. Valve Lapping Tool
Lifter Removal
1
2
13
Inspection and Reconditioning
NOTE: Refer to the Specifications Chapter for specificdimensions that are not given in this chapter.
This chapter covers the cleaning, inspection, overhaul, and
assembly of individual engine components. The next sec-
tion of this manual describes the assembly of the engine.
After disassembling the engine, check the components and
discard unusable parts such as gaskets, O-rings, burned
valves, and broken rings. Check the items that may need
machine shop work first so this work can be completed by
the time the rest of the engine is ready to assemble.
Cylinder Block1. Inspect the cylinder block for cracks, damage, and dis-
tortion. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check
the block-to-head mating surface. If there is more than
0.003 in (0.07 mm) distortion, resurface the block. Do
not remove more than 0.010 in. (0.25 mm) from the
block surface.
1. Head Mating Surface 4. Main Bearing Bore
2. Cylinder Bore 5. Cam Bearing Bore
3. Pan Mating Surface 6. Lifter Bore
Block Measurements
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
14
2. Check the cylinder bores for taper, out-of-round, pock-
eting or any other problems that would indicate the
need to bore the block. The bores should be no more
than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) out-of-round, or have more
than 0.003 in. (0.07 mm) taper. If the bores are in good
condition, deglaze the cylinders with a glaze breaker.
3. If boring is required, determine the proper oversize pis-
ton. Pistons are available in 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 and
0.040 in. (0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 mm) oversizes.
Measure each of the four pistons. Bore and hone the
cylinder to obtain 0.0020 to 0.0025in. (0.051 to 0.064
mm) piston- to-wall clearance. The use of a taper gauge
will help maintain a straight bore.
NOTE: Pistons will vary in diameter. Each pistonmust be measured and the cylinder bored accordingly.
All di and se 2.2 pistons have a letter stamped in the top
of the piston between the valve relief areas.
Cylinder Bore Deglazing
NOTE: Measure the piston 2.75 in. (70 mm) from thetop at the right angle to the wrist pin.
The letter will be A, B, C or D. All engine manufactur-
ers have a tolerance range for their pistons and a mark-
ing system to determine where the piston is located in
the tolerance range. The engine bore sizes are also
graded, and when the engine is originally assembled,
the larger pistons are put into the larger bores. The tol-
erance range is small, usually measured in ten thou-
sandths of an inch, but a quality manufacturer will go
through this extra work to ensure the best possible fit
between piston and bore.
Piston Size Identification
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
15
In di and se 2.2 engines, A pistons are the smallest, and
D pistons are the largest; however, only two grades of
Service Part replacement pistons are offered; A and C.
Because of this small variance in piston diameters and
the close piston to wall clearances in this engine, it is
vitally important to measure each piston and bore and
hone accordingly.
A and C pistons use the same part number and are
treated as the same part. Note the letter on top of the
piston (see page 14) and measure the piston to make
sure of the size.
If the pistons are reused, make sure they are placed in
the same cylinders they were removed from. If a D pis-
ton was placed in an A size bore, it would be too tight.
If an A piston was placed in a D size bore, it would be
too loose.
Nominal Piston Sizes (standard bore)
Grade A 3.4633 to 3.4640 in. (87.967 to 87.986 mm)
Grade C 3.4641 to 3.4648 in. (87.987 to 88.006 mm)
Piston Wear Limit 0. 002 in. (0.05 mm)
Finished Bore Size = Piston diameter + piston to cylin-
der wall clearance.
Finish hone the cylinders to a 16 micro-inch finish.
4. Obtain long 0.001 in. (0.025 mm) and 0.0015 in.
(0.0375 mm) feeler gauges. Lay a feeler gauge against
the piston vertically at a position 90 degrees from the
wrist pin holes. This is the widest part of the piston.
Now carefully try to install the piston along with the
feeler gauge into the proper cylinder bore. The piston
and proper size feeler gauge should require 1 to 3 lb.
(0.45 to 1.3 kg) of force to be moved while in the cylin-
der bore. Check the top and bottom of the cylinder bore
to be sure that there is no taper.
5. After the block is deglazed or bored, remove the water
distributor tube from the block. The tube should be
checked or replaced during a major overhaul.
To remove the tube, locate the core plug at the back of
the block. Pry out the plug. This exposes the water tube
anchor pin. Drive this pin forward out of the block.
Piston Fit Measurement
Removal of Water Tube
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
16
6. Measure the camshaft bearings in the block. The stan-
dard dimension is 1.9682 to 1.9710 in. (49.99 to 50.06
mm). If the bearings have more than 0.004 in.
(0.10 mm) wear, nicked or damaged surfaces, or if the
block is to be boiled out, remove the bearings and all
core plugs.
7. Install the main bearing caps in their proper positions.
Torque the bearing caps to 125 ft-lb (170 N•m) Check
the main bearing saddle alignment and main bearing
bore for out of round.
NOTE: The cast-in arrows on the main bearings capspoint to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). Themain bearing caps are also numbered, with No. 1
being the rear (flywheel end) bearing .
If the main bearing bores are more than 0.001 in.
(0.0254 mm) out-of-round, the block must be align
bored. To check saddle alignment, use a straight edge
and a 0.0015 in. (0.0381 mm) feeler gauge. Lay the
straight edge in the bores. The feeler strip should drag
under the straight edge at each main bore.
8. Measure the lifter bores in the block. The bores should
be 0.5110 to 0.5125 in. (12.981 to 13.018 mm). Very
little, if any, wear is associated with these bores. Clean
up small scratches or nicks with a brake cylinder hone.
1. Embossed “C” 3. Middle
2. Rear Flywheel End 4. Front
Main Bearing Position
1
4 3 2
9. Check or replace all core plugs.
Checking Main Bearing Saddle Alignment
Main Bearing Bore
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
17
Crankshaft
1. Check the crankshaft journals, crank pins and oil seal
surface for evidence of wear, damage or clogging of oil
ports.
2. Measure the crankshaft main journals. The standard
dimension is 2.3589 to 2.3595 in. (59.917 to 59.932
mm). The crankshaft must be ground undersize if the
journal shows any of the following conditions:
• Out-of-round more than 0.001 in (0.0254 mm)
• Taper greater than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm)
• Wear greater than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm)
Consult the grind chart for main journals shown below.
Outside Diameter of Finished Main Journals
Journal Undersize in Millimeters*
Diameter in
Millimeters
Diameterin
Inches
Standard 59.917-59.932 2.3589-2.3595
0.25 mm 59.667-59.682 2.3491-2.3497
0.50 mm 59.417-59.432 2.3392-2.3398
AGA40
Measuring Crankshaft Main Journals
*NOTE: Service Parts main bearings are furnished inmetric undersizes of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.0 millimeters.The conversion from millimeters is not exact (1 mm =0.03937007 in.). Therefore, the “inch” column of under-sizes loses approximately 0.0102 in. per undersize ratherthan exactly 0.010 in. per undersize. 0.25 mm undersize isroughly equivalent to 0.010 in. undersize, 0.50 mm to0.020 in. undersize, 0.75 mm to 0.030 in. undersize, and1.00 mm to 0.040 in. undersize. The most accurate methodof determining the correct journal undersize diameter is toassemble and torque a main bearing cap on the block withthe proper undersize bearing in the block. Measure thebearing inside diameter. Subtracting the clearance desiredfrom that figure results in the correct journal undersizediameter.
3. Measure the rod journals. The standard dimension is
2.0832-2.0838 in. (52.915-52.930 mm). The crank pins
must be ground undersize if the rod journal shows any
of the following conditions:
• Out-of-round more than 0.001 in (0.0254 mm)
• Taper greater than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm)
• Wear greater than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm)
Consult the grind chart for rod journals shown below.
0.75 mm 59.167-59.182 2.3294-2.3300
1.0 mm 58.917-58.932 2.3196-2.3202
Outside Diameter of Finished Rod Journals
Journal Undersize in Millimeters**
Diameter in
Millimeters
Diameter in
Inches
Standard 52.915-52.930 2.0832-2.0838
0.25 mm 52.665-52.680 2.0734-2.0740
0.50 mm 52.415-52.430 2.0636-2.0642
0.75 mm 52.165-52.180 2.0537-2.0543
1.0 mm 51.915-51.930 2.0439-2.0445
Outside Diameter of Finished Main Journals
Journal Undersize in Millimeters*
Diameter in
Millimeters
Diameterin
Inches
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
18
**NOTE: Service Parts rod bearings are furnished in met-ric undersizes of 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.0 millimeters. Theconversion from millimeters is not exact (1 mm =0.03937007 in.). Therefore, the “inch” column of under-sizes loses approximately 0.0102 in. per undersize ratherthan exactly 0.010 in. per undersize. 0.25 mm undersize isroughly equivalent to 0.010 in. undersize, 0.50 mm to0.020 in. undersize, 0.75 mm to 0.030 in. undersize, and1.00 mm to 0.040 in. undersize. The most accurate methodof determining the correct journal undersize diameter is toassemble and torque a rod and cap with the proper under-size bearing in the rod. Measure the bearing inside diame-ter. Subtracting the clearance desired from that figureresults in the correct journal undersize diameter.
4. Place the crankshaft in the engine block, resting on the
old front and rear main upper inserts. This will allow
the shaft to be rotated. Using a dial indicator on the
middle main journal, rotate the crankshaft one full turn
and note the largest reading. The crankshaft deflection
equals 50% of the largest indicator reading. Crankshaft
deflection should be more than 0.0015 in. (0.0381 mm).
5. Inspect the pulley front seal surface for excessive wear.
Worn or damaged pulley bosses must be replaced as no
repair sleeve is available. The pulley boss is hand fit
and can be removed by tapping with a soft hammer.
NOTE: Two types of pulley bosses were used and theyARE NOT interchangeable. When replacing the pul-ley boss be sure it is the same style as the original. Seethe following picture to determine which pulley bossyou have.
1. Dial Indicator
Measuring Crankshaft Deflection
6. Removing the crankshaft timing gear requires the use
of a standard gear puller. When replacing the gear and
the pulley boss, use silicone sealant on the crankshaft
before installing the gear and pulley boss. The sealant
prevents oil leakage.
7. Check the rear crankshaft wear ring surface for a
groove left by the lip seal. See following section for
replacement.
1. Solid Design (used with flat style gear cover)
2. Rubber Damper Design (used with domed stylegear cover)
Pulley Boss Types
1. Seal Surface 3. Pulley Boss
2. Crankshaft Timing Gear
Checking Gear Wear, Seal Surface and Pulley Boss
1
2
3
12
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
19
.
8. The crankshaft journals on these engines are surfaced
hardened with a nitriding process. If the journal diame-
ter is worn 0.002 in. (0.05 mm) or more it will need to
be reground undersize or replaced.
Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only)
Removal and replacementTo provide a better oil seal, the rear of the crankshaft has a
chromium-plated wear ring.
1. Hold the crankshaft firmly. Place a chisel on the O.D.
surface of the wear ring facing the center of the crank-
shaft. Tap the chisel to expand the ring.
NOTE: Use only taps. A heavy blow will break thering and the chisel will mar the crankshaft surface.
2. Pull the wear ring to the rear to remove it.
3. Clean all dirt, grease and oil from the crankshaft ring
area.
4. Heat the replacement wear ring in boiling water or in an
oven at approximately 200 F (93.0 C).
5. Coat the inside surface of the wear ring with a thin
coating of Loctite or silicone sealant. Position the ring
on the crankshaft with the beveled O.D. surface toward
1. Wear Ring
Checking Rear Seal Surface
1
the rear. Make sure that the ring is square with the axis
of the crankshaft.
NOTE: The wear ring is uni-directional. Before driv-ing it onto the crankshaft, ensure that the wear ring isproperly positioned.
6. Using tool No. 204-592 and a hammer, drive the ring
0.31 in. (8 mm) onto the crankshaft.
1. 0.31 ± 0.02 in.(8 ± 0.5 mm)
3. Beveled O.D.
2. Chamfered I.D.
Driving Wear Ring onto Crankshaft
1
2
3
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
20
Timing GearsThree different types of timing gears were used:
• First Design Coarse Mesh - through S/N #219283
• Second Design Hardened Coarse Mesh - beginning
with S/N #219284
• Third Design Hardened Fine Mesh - beginning with
S/N #221207
NOTE: The gears ARE NOT interchangeable and must bereplaced as a set.
1. To remove the timing gear from the camshaft, remove
the center bolt and tap the gear off with a soft-faced
hammer. Remove the crankshaft timing gear (if it has
not already been removed) with a standard puller.
2. Examine the timing gears for chipped or worn teeth.
During engine assembly, the timing gears will be
checked for gear lash, so only a visual check is neces-
sary now.
3. Measure the inside diameter of the camshaft idler gear
bushing. The standard dimension is 1.7717 to 1.7728
in. (45.000 to 450.030 mm). If the bushing is badly
scored or worn more that 0.003 in. (0.072 mm), replace
1. Injection Pump Idler 3. Camshaft
2. Camshaft Idler 4. Crankshaft
Timing Gears
1
2 3
4
the gear and bushing. The bushing is not sold sepa-
rately.
4. Check the injection pump idler gear bearings for noise
or roughness and inspect the transfer pump cam lobe
for wear.
5. To remove the injection pump idler gear bearings,
remove the front and back snap rings.
6. Tap out the spindle with a soft mallet.
7. Using a suitable tool, press out the bearings applying
pressure to the outer race only.
8. To remove the transfer pump cam lobe, support it as
shown. Press the lobe off.
9. Heat the new cam lobe in boiling water or an oven to
approximately 200 F (93.0 C), and drop the lobe on the
gear. There is no particular orientation of the lobe.
10. Install the new bearings back in the gear making sure to
press on the outer race only. Install snap rings and spin-
dle.
Removing Transfer Pump Cam
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
21
Transfer Pump Cam RepairThe transfer pump is driven by a cam that is mounted on the
B idler timing gear. This cam can come off the gear or can
be loose on the gear.
The engine will not necessarily stop running if the cam is
loose or fallen off because the injection pump has an inter-
nal pump of it’s own that is used to operate the timing piston
in the injection pump. That pump is capable of pulling fuel
from the fuel tank, especially if the unit is mounted lower
than normal, or the fuel tank level is high. The internal
pump may be able to keep the unit running, but not able to
provide enough fuel for restart, or in some cases it will
allow restarts, but the engine has difficulty coming up to
speed.
Typical symptoms are;
• The engine will crank but will not start.
• The engines runs, but is hard starting and difficult to get
up to speed.
• The engine was running, but won’t restart after being
shut off.
• The transfer pump is not pumping fuel or pumping fuel
at a low rate.
• Any problem that appears to be fuel delivery problem.
Inspection and RepairRemove the transfer pump and look at the cam. If it is in
position on the B idler gear use a sharp tool such as a probe
to push on the cam to make sure it doesn’t move. If it moves
on the idler gear, or is dropped off the gear, it must be
repaired.
Remove the front timing cover and remove the B idler gear.
Mark the B idler gear to the inspection pump gear and to the
A idler gear in case the valve springs or injection pump
springs try to rotate the pump or camshaft.
Weld the pump cam to the gear using three 0.50 inch beads
spaced evenly around the cam. (See the following illustra-
tion.) Use tape on the cam surface and gear teeth to prevent
weld spatter. Use a wire feed welder or TIG welder to pro-
vide a clean spatter free weld. Allow the weld to cool at
room temperature. Do not immerse the gear to cool it.
Welding done as described will not harm the gear in any
way or effect the gear backlash. Reassemble the engine.
Welding the Pump Cam to the Idler Gear
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
22
Camshaft
1. Check the cam shaft journals, lobes and oil pump drive
for wear or damage.
2. Measure the camshaft lobe height. The standard dimen-
sion is 1.5913 in. (40.42 mm) for intake and 1.5984 in.
(40.60 mm) for exhaust. More that 0.005 in. (0.127
mm) wear indicates the camshaft should be replaced.
Check the lobe faces for damage. Clean up slight
imperfections with an oil stone
3. Measure camshaft deflection with a dial indicator and a
set of “V” blocks. Rotate the camshaft one full turn and
note the largest reading. The camshaft deflection is
50% of this reading. Replace the camshaft if the deflec-
tion is greater than 0.003 in. (0.7 mm) deflection.
AGA54
Camshaft Lobe and Gear Inspection
AGA55
Measuring Camshaft Deflection
4. Measure the camshaft journal diameters. The standard
dimension is 1.9670 to 1.9675 in. (49.96 to 49.97 mm).
Replace the camshaft if the journals are worn more than
0.002 in. (0.05 mm).
5. Inspect the oil passageways and the oil bleed hole for
obstructions.
1. Oil Bleed Hole
Rear Journal and Oil Passageway Inspection
AGA53
Measuring Camshaft Journal Diameters
1
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
23
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head for the engine is a direct injection head,
therefore it does not have prechambers, hot plugs, heat
dams, etc., making it easier to service.
Disassembly
1. Remove the bus bar and glow plugs if they have not
been removed already. Do not set the head face down
with the glow plugs installed or the glow plug tips will
be damaged.
2. Use a valve spring compressor to remove the valves
from the head.
3. Remove the steel spring seats and retain for assembly.
Boil the head out if possible.
Valve Guides
1. Use a valve guide carbon beater to remove carbon from
the guides. Measure the inside diameter of the guides
using a small hole gauge or graduated set of tapered
pilots. The standard dimension is 0.3150-0.3156 in.
(8.000-8.017 mm). If guides show more than 0.003 in.
(0.07 mm) wear, replace the guides.
Removing Spring Seat Washer
If the engine has acquired many hours of running time,
it is a good idea to replace the guides because they are
usually worn after such a period. Because the valve seat
grinding procedure is piloted off of the guides, a new
straight guide will ensure an accurate valve seat.
2. To remove the guides, use tool No. 204-355 to drive the
guides out toward the lower face of the cylinder head.
1. Tool No. 204-355
Removing and Installing Valve Guides
Cleaning Valve Guides
1
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
24
3. Install the new valve guides using the appropriate tool.
Using a depth micrometer or caliper, set the guides to
0.475 in. (12.07 mm) as shown.
4. After installation, the guides may need reaming with a
0.3155 in. (8.013 mm) hand reamer. Ream both the
exhaust and intake guides.
1. 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Intake
2. 0.475 in. (12.07 mm) Exhaust
Valve Guide Set Depth
1 2
Reaming Intake and Exhaust Guides
Cylinder Head Valve Depth
The depth at which the valves rest in the head (valve depth)
is a critical dimension for most diesel engines. If the valves
are set too deep as a result of valve grinding, the combustion
chamber volume enlarges and the compression ratio drops.
This results in hard starting. Therefore, it is very important
to check valve depth before any valve or seat grinding is
attempted. If this dimension is already at the limit, the valve
seat inserts or valves, or possible both, may have to be
replaced.
1. To check the valve seat depth, install the valves in their
respective seats and check the depth.
2. Normal depth is 0.011 in. (0.275 mm) negative to 0.007
in. (0.175 mm) positive. Valves should not be more that
0.022 in. (0.57 mm) negative for both intake and
exhaust. Grind the valves at a 45° angle and check the
depth again to determine if the depth is still within tol-
erance.
If the seat width exceeds 0.070 in. (1.75 mm) for intake
and 0.63 in. (1.60 mm) for exhaust, 30 degree and 60
degree stones may be used to narrow and raise or lower
the seat.
AGA62
Checking Valve Depth
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
25
3. If the limit still has not been exceeded, grind the seats
as well.
4. Measure the depth once again. If it is now beyond the
specified limit, the seat or valve, or possibly both, will
have to be replaced.
1. 0.050- 0.070 in. (1.22-1.75 mm)
Valve Seat Angle
30°45° 60°
APA125
Installing Grinding Pilot
Grinding
1. If the valve depth does not exceed the specified limit,
grind the seats to a 45 degree angle. A hard stone will
be required. Since the valve guide bore is 0.315 in.
(8.001 mm) standard, regular valve seat grinding equip-
ment can be used. No metric pilots are required.
As the seat is ground, periodically check the seating of
the valve with Prussian Blue or a similar dye to ensure
that the seat is contacting as close to the middle of the
valve face as possible.
2. After all the valve seats have been ground, the valves
may be lapped. Put a small amount of a medium grit
compound on each valve face. Using a valve lapping
toll, briefly spin the valve against the seat. Then lift the
valve and rotate it about a quarter of a turn. Drop the
valve back into the seat and continue lapping. Repeat
this procedure until the compound is used up. Remove
all traces of lapping compound.
APA124
Using Valve Seat Grinding Equipment
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
26
Replacement
1. Use a commercial-type valve seat replacement tool to
remove the seat from the head. If such a tool is not
available, use a welding torch and heat the valve insert
red hot (1330 to 1400 F [721 to 760 C]) at two spots
directly opposite each other. Allow the insert 3-5 min-
utes to cool and contract.
2. Now pry the insert out with a screwdriver or a small pry
bar. Clean out any carbon or foreign material that may
be in the insert bore.
3. Check the outside diameter of a new valve seat insert
and the inside diameter of the valve seat bore. The
insert should be 0.003-0.005 in. (0.76-0.127 mm) larger
than the bore to ensure a good interference fit. Chill the
insert and install it with a seat installing tool. Assuming
the valve guides have been reconditioned or replaced,
the new valve seats may now be ground to 45 degrees.
APA126
Removing and Installing Valve Seat
Valves
1. Inspect and measure the valve stems. Standard diameter
is 0.3128-0.3141 in. (7.946-7.978 mm) for intake and
0.3119-0.3131 in. (7.921-7.953 mm) for exhaust.
Replace if worn more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm). Maxi-
mum clearance between valve and guide should not
exceed 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) for exhaust and 0.006 in.
(0.15 mm) for intake.
2. Regrind the valve face to a 45 degree angle.
3. Check for bent valves while they are in the grinding
machine.
4. Check the valve margin. If there is less than 0.040 in.
(1.0 mm) margin left, replace the valves. Standard mar-
gin is 0.051 in. (1.3 mm).
Valve Spring
1. Check that the spring free length is 1.81-1.75 in. (46-
44.5 mm) and the inclination is no more that .118 in.
(3.0 mm).
2. Using a spring compressor, check that at the set length,
1.52 in. (38.6 mm), the pressure is 43.4-36.8 lb. (19.7-
16.7 kg).
1. 0.051 in. (1.3 mm)
Valve Margin
AGA64
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
27
1. Inclination 3. Square
2. Free Length
Measuring Valve Spring Free Length and Inclination
3
AGA71
APA127
Testing Valve Spring Tension
Cylinder Head Reassembly
After all cylinder head components have been recondi-
tioned, ground or replaced, the head is ready for assem-
bly.
NOTE: There are two types of valve seals supplied byService Parts; Original Equipment Manufacturer(OEM) seals, which are included in the gasket setand Thermo King replacement seals which are soldindividually in packages of 8. Normally, both sealsdo the same job, although some engines utilizing usedvalves that continue to exhibit excessive oil consump-tion after an overhaul, may benefit by changing the
seals from one type to the other.
1. Place the valves in the guides, and install the valve
stem seals, being careful that the teflon insert does not
get scratched or pulled from its rubber carrier. Use the
installation tool (if supplied with the seals) for ease of
installation. Later seal sets may not include this tool.
1. OEM Seal 2. Thermo King Seal
Valve Seal Types
1 2
Typical Valve Stem Seal Installation
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
28
2. Before placing the springs in position, make sure that
the steel spring seats are in place to ensure that the steel
spring does not wear the cast iron head.
3. Install the valves, springs, and retainers.
4. After the valves are installed, place the head on its side
and fill up the exhaust ports with diesel fuel. Check
around the exhaust valves for leaking fuel. Only a small
seepage should be visible. Repeat this step for the
intake valves. If the leakage seems excessive, the leak-
ing valve will have to be removed and lapped again.
Installing Spring Seat Washer
Testing Sealing Ability of Valves
Rocker Arm Assembly1. To disassemble the rocker arm assembly, remove the
clips at both ends of the shaft. Then remove the springs,
rocker arms and supports. Arrange the rocker arms in
the sequence of disassembly to ensure correct assem-
bly.
2. Measure the rocker arm shaft deflection with a dial
indicator and a set of “V” blocks. Rotate the rocker arm
shaft one full turn and note the largest reading. The
rocker arm shaft deflection is 50% of this reading.
Replace the rocker arm shaft if the deflection is greater
than 0.005 in. (0.127 mm).
3. Measure the outside dimension of the rocker arm shaft.
The standard dimension is 0.7476-0.7480 in. (18.99-
19.00 mm). Replace the shaft if it is worn more than
0.005 in. (0.127 mm).
1. Clip 3. Spring
2. Rocker Arms 4. Support
Rocker Arm Assembly
12
34
APA128
APA129
Check Rocker Arm Shaft Deflection
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
29
Measure the outside diameter of the lifter with a microme-
ter. Standard diameter is 0.5108 in. (12.97 mm) wear.
Replace the lifter if there is more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm)
wear.
Pistons
1. Remove and discard the old piston rings.
2. Heat the piston in hot water, 120-140 F (49-60 C), and
then push out the piston wrist pin.
NOTE: When working with a piston and rod assem-bly, do not clamp it in a steel jaw vise. Use a soft jawvise, or use soft covers over the steel jaws. Clampingthe rod in a steel vise will put small nicks in the rod.These nicks become stress raisers that can cause pre-mature rod failure.
3. If the pistons are to be reused, perform steps 4 through
6.
4. All di and se 2.2 engines have a letter stamped on the
top of the piston between the valve relief areas. (See
Inspection and Reconditioning the Cylinder Block).
This letter indicates the size of the piston within the
manufacturing to tolerance range-A being the smallest,
and D the largest. The tolerance range is 3.4633 to
3.4652 in. (87.967 to 88.016 mm). Each letter is
approximately 0.0004 in. (0.01 mm) larger than the pre-
vious one.
Measure the piston diameter. The measurement should
be taken about 2.75 in. (70 mm) from the top of the pis-
ton and at a right angle to the piston pin. The pistons
4. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm bush-
ings. The standard dimension is 0.7484-0.7500 in.
(19.01-19.05 mm). If there is more than 0.005 in.
(0.127 mm) wear, replace the rocker arms. Do not reuse
any rocker arm/shaft combinations that exceed a com-
bined clearance of more than 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) or
high oil consumption may result due to excess oil throw
off into the valve seals or crankcase breather areas.
5. Check wear on the rocker arm contact face. Recondi-
tion or replace as necessary.
6. Assemble the rocker arm shaft, supports, rocker arms,
springs and other hardware. Be sure to loosen all the
valve lash adjusting screws.
NOTE: Tightening down the rocker arm shaft withthe valve lash adjustments in the original positionmay bend the push rods.
Push Rods
Check the push rods for bending and wear at the ends.
Replace the rods if these conditions appear.
Lifters
Check the face of the lifters for wear or damage. Replace
the lifter if these conditions appear.
1. Hardened Steel Face
Contact Face Wear
1
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
30
should not be reused if they are worn more than .002 in.
(0.05 mm).
5. Clean the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner,
being careful not to scrape any metal from the piston. If
it is not possible to obtain a ring groove cleaner, a used
ring can be broken and sharpened to do the job.
6. Using a new set of piston rings, check the ring-to-
groove clearance (see Specifications) by inserting a
feeler gauge along with the ring and roll it all the way
around the piston ring groove. Excessive side clearance
requires piston replacement. Do not install the rings
yet, the end gap must be checked first.
AGA45
Measuring the Piston
Cleaning Ring Grooves
Wrist PinsThe wrist pin and bushing carries a great deal of load in a
small area, so the wrist pin fit is very critical. A qualified
machine shop should do the pin fitting when the engine is
overhauled.
1
2
4
3
Piston Ring Set
AGA46
Checking Ring Groove Clearance
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
31
1. If the block requires boring and new pistons are used,
replace the wrist pins. Because of the very close toler-
ances of the wrist pin, piston bore and rod bushing bore
0.0004-0.0008 in. (0.01-0.02 mm) measuring wear
becomes very difficult using standard micrometers and
small hole or telescopic gauges.
2. If precision gauging equipment is not available, the
wrist pin to bushing fit can be checked by oiling the
wrist pin and inserting it in the bore. It should be snug
and require at lease a hand-push fit.
AGA47
Wrist Pin Measurement
Checking Wrist Pin-to Bushing Clearance
Connecting Rods
Beginning with engine serial no. 936751, new connecting
rods P/N 11-6873 are used. The new rod is heavier than the
old one and has knurled bolts. Because of the difference in
weight the two types cannot be mixed. Both are available
from Service Parts, old style P/N 11-5824 and new style
P/N 11-6873.
Reconditioning a connecting rod requires varied and expen-
sive equipment. If this equipment is not available, most
machine shops are able to recondition the rods to “like-
new” specifications. To recondition the rods yourself, use
the following procedure:
1. The connecting rods should, if possible, be glass bead
cleaned, which stress relieves them.
2. The connecting rod and cap should be assembled and
torqued without the bearing. Measure the big end bore.
If it is more than 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm) out-of-round, it
should be reconditioned.
3. Use a rod alignment fixture to check for connecting rod
twist or parallelism. The standard value for rod twist is
AGA48
Connecting Rod Bore Measurement
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
32
Manifold1. Check the manifold for cracks, damage or carbon build
up.
2. Check for distortion using a straight edge and feeler
gauge. Resurface or replace the manifold if the distor-
tion is greater than 0.006 in. (0.15 mm). Earlier engines
have an exhaust restrictor to control oil migration.
Clean and check this if the engine is so equipped.
Oil Filter Assembly
Two different oil filter assemblies are used on these engines;
Full Flow and Dual 1500. The di 2.2 normally uses a full
flow oil filter assembly and the se 2.2 normally uses a dual
1500 oil filter assembly. Either assembly will fit on either
engine, but the dual 1500 element filter will not fit on the
full flow filter base and the full flow filter will not fit on the
dual element filter base.
The oil filter assembly incorporates an oil pressure relief
valve to maintain the engine oil pressure at 40 to 65 psi (275
to 448 kPa) and a bypass valve to protect the engine from
oil starvation if the filter becomes plugged with accumu-
lated sludge.
Checking Manifold Distortion
0.002 in (0.05 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). The service
limit is 0.008 in. (0.20 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm).
The standard value for rod parallelism is 0.002 in. (0.05
mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). The service limit is 0.006 in.
(0.15 mm) per 4 in. (100 mm). If the rod is twisted or
bent beyond the service limit, the rod will have to be
straightened or replaced.
4. Press out the piston wrist pin bushing using a suitable
tool. Reinstall the new bushing, and if a bushing
expanding tool is available, expand the bushing in the
bore. Ream or hone the new bushing to the finished-
size. Each bushing should be fitted to its own individ-
ual wrist pin with precision gauging equipment.
1. Per 4.00 in. (100 mm)
2. Parallelism no more than 0.006 in. (0.15 mm)
3. Twist no more than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm)
Measuring Connecting Rod Twist and Parallelism
1
2
13
APA130
Removing Wrist Pin Bushing
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
33
1. Dirty Oil From Pump 3. Clean Filtered Oil to Engine 5. Oil Returned to Sump through Pressure Regulator2. Filter Bypass Valve 4. Pressure Regulator
Full Flow Filter System
1
2
3
4
5
3
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
34
1. Dirty Oil From Pump 5. Excessive Oil Bleed Port on Pressure Regulator
2. Filter Bypass Valve 6. Clean Oil from Bypass Filter Returned to Sump
3. Clean Oil from Full Flow Filter to Engine 7. Fine Micron Bypass Filter
4. Pressure Regulator 8. Coarse Micron Full Flow Filter
Dual Flow 1500 Filter System
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
3
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
35
Reconditioning the Assembly
1. Remove and discard the old filter.
2. Remove the bypass and relief valves and oil pressure
safety switch.
3. Thoroughly clean all parts and examine them for cracks
and other damage.
4. The relief valve cannot be disassembled. The valve
must be replaced if oil pressure is low because of
excessive oil being bypassed. It is interchangeable with
the C201 oil relief valve.
5. Replace the O-ring seals on the bypass and relief valves
before assembling.
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
36
Oil Pumps
Different types of oil pumps were used in these engines.
The most noticeable difference in the oil pumps is the
strainer size. The small strainer oil pump has a strainer that
is much smaller and has seven 0.28 in. (7 mm) holes instead
of a screen. There are some other minor differences but all
are inspected in the same way.
1. Knock Pin Type Pinion
3. Gear Support Point
2. Single Supported Driven Gear
4. Large Strainer
Large Strainer Oil Pump
(interchangeable with small strainer pump)
1
3
4
2
1. Shrinkage Fit Pinion 3. Gear Supporting Points
2. Double SupportedDriven Gear
4. Small Strainer
Small Strainer Oil Pump
(no longer available as a service replacement part)
1
2
3
4
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
37
NOTE: Oil pump rebuild kits are not available. Only items#1, #2, #3, #10 and #11 are available as replacement ser-vice parts.
1. Oil Pump Assembly 7. Cover
2. Pin-pinion gear 8. Bolt-cover
3. Gear-pinion gear 9. Screen
4. Gear-idler 10. Pipe-oil pump
5. Gear-driven 11. Bolt-mtg. oil pump
6. Cover-oil pump body
Oil Pump Assembly (exploded view)
1
23
4
65
7
8
9
10
11
Oil Pump Inspection
1. Remove the strainer by unbending the tabs. Only four
tabs are used on the original assembly. Use the four
unused tabs when reassembling. If all eight tabs have
been removed, replace the oil pump.
2. Remove the oil pump cover bolts and the cover.
3. Remove the idler gear.
4. The driven gear, its shaft and pinion gear are not nor-
mally removed because the driven gear is pressed on
the shaft and the pinion gear is pinned to the shaft.
5. Visually inspect the gears and pump body for scratches
and other damage.
6. Place the idler gear in the pump body.
7. Check for excessive clearance between the body cover
surface and gears with a straight edge and feeler gauge-
0.002 to 0.0045 in. (0.050 to 0.114 mm) is the standard
dimension.
Oil Pump Body Cover Gear Clearance
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
38
8. Check for excessive clearance between the gear tips
and pump body inner wall with a feeler gauge-0.002 to
0.0031 in. (0.050 to 0.082 mm) is the standard dimen-
sion.
9. If any of these measurements exceed the recommended
tolerances by more than 0.002 in. (0.05 mm), replace
the oil pump assembly.
Water PumpAlthough a number of different water pumps were used on
di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines over the years, a replacement water
pump is available through Service Parts which fits all
engines. A new water pump is P/N 11-8478, a remanufac-
tured water pump is P/N 811-8478.
NOTE: Water pump rebuild kits are not available. A wornor damaged water pump must be replaced.
Gear to Oil Pump Body Wall Clearance
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
39
Engine Breathing SystemThere are four types of breather systems used on the di 2.2
and se 2.2 engines.
1. Chimney breather can with negative crankcase pres-
sure.
2. Side breather can with negative crankcase pressure
(beginning with S/N 102568).
3. PCV valve on valve cover with positive crankcase pres-
sure (beginning with S/N 221207).
4. PCV valve on valve cover with negative crankcase
pressure (beginning with S/N E10889).
The breather should be disassembled and cleaned on a regu-
lar basis.
Chimney and Side Can BreathersThe chimney and side breather can use an opening in the
block that draws fresh air into the crankcase. Engines with
worn rings will force crankcase gases or oil out of the
breathers.
1. Chimney Breather Can 2. Side Breather Can
Can Type Engine Breathers
21
PCV Valve Cover Breathers
Both of the positive and negative PCV valve systems vent
crankcase gases only to the intake and do not draw any fresh
air into the crankcase, which is called a closed crankcase
system.
PCV Type Engine Breather
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
40
Closed Crankcase with PCV Valve
An improved closed PCV system was incorporated on Sec-
ond Generation se 2.2 engines (beginning with serial No.
221207) and on all Third Generation se 2.2 engines. The
system utilizes a spring and diaphragm, located in the valve
cover, to maintain a constant flow of crankcase gas regard-
less of the intake manifold pressure. This results in a system
with a constantly regulated crankcase pressure even in the
presence of ring wear or a restricted air cleaner.
Unrestricted Position Partially Restricted Position Fully Restricted
1. PCV Valve 5. Baffle Plate
2. Spring 6. To Crossover Tube
3. Valve Cover 7. Diaphragm (on bottom of spring)
4. Push Rod Passages
Closed Positive PCV System
12
34
5
6
71
2
34
5
6
71
2
34
5
6
7
Closed Positive PCV System
The following schematic illustrates the closed Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) operation.
In the unrestricted position, gas flow exits the crankcase via
the push rod passages and past the orifice and diaphragm. In
the past, as air cleaner restriction increased, vacuum and
flow would increase in the crossover line lowering the
crankcase pressure. To prevent this, the PCV diaphragm
expands into the passageway, restricting the flow to main-
tain a constant, slightly positive crankcase pressure.
CAUTION: To prevent injury always checkengine oil level with the engine shut off. The pos-itive PCV system will cause oil to be thrown out ofthe dipstick tube if the dipstick is removed whilethe engine is running.
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
41
Closed Negative PCV System
The following schematic illustrates the closed negative
crankcase ventilation (PCV) operation.
1. PCV Valve 5. Baffle Plate
2. Diaphragm (on top of spring) 6. To Crossover Tube
3. Valve Cover 7. Spring
4. Push Rod Passages
Closed Negative PCV System
12
3
45
6
Unrestricted Position Partially Restricted Fully Restricted Position
The negative pressure system functions similar to the posi-
tive PCV system but maintains a negative crankcase pres-
sure.
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
42
Checking Crankcase Pressure
1. An adapter to check crankcase pressure can be made
from a C201 dipstick (11-2893) and a fitting (55-2857).
2. Remove the dipstick from the cap and drill a 11/32 in.
(8.7 mm) hole in the cap. Tap the hole with an 1/8 in.
NPT tap and install the fitting.
3. This adapter will provide a convenient hook-up for the
Magnehelic gauge to monitor crankcase pressure.
4. To use the adapter, remove the oil dipstick and replace
it with the adapter. Connect the low pressure side of the
gauge to the adapter and observe the readings on high
and low speed.
1. Fitting
2. Fill Cap
3. Discard Dipstick
Vacuum Gauge Adapter
1. Adapter
2. Magnehelic Gauge 10 in. (254 mm)
Mearsuring Engine Pressures
12
3
12
If your readings are significantly more positive than those
shown, you may have excess blowby past the rings. A com-
pression check should be performed to confirm this.
To convert a positive pressure PCV system to a negativepressure system install Service Parts Kit P/N 10-340.
The following items can effect your crankcase pressure
readings.
Breather System Typical Crankcase Pres-sures*
Chimney Breather Can -3 in. to -8 in. water column
Side Breather Can -3 in. to -8 in. water column
Closed Positive PCV-1.5 in. to +3.5 in. water
column
Closed Negative PCV-2.5 in. to -7.5 in. water
column
*measured with a new air filter installed.
Typical Crankcase Pressures
Crankcase Pressure
Effect Typical Cause
Increase Piston Rings Stuck or Worn
Decrease Air Cleaner Dirty or Plugged
Increase Breather Hose Plugged with Dirt or Ice
Decrease PCV Diaphragm Torn
Increase PCV Diaphragm Frozen to Seat in Valve
Troubleshooting Chart
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
43
Crossover Hose Alignment
During a routine service, check the orientation of the cross-
over hose from the air intake adapter to the valve cover. It is
important to avoid kinks and bends in the hose to prevent
icing during cold weather operation.
1. Valve Cover 3. Air Intake Manifold
2. Crossover Hose
Correct Crossover Hose Alignment
1. Restricted Crossover Hose
Incorrect Crossover Hose Alignment
1
23
1
1
PCV Breather Vent
The PCV valve that regulates the crankcase pressure can
develop excessive pressure in the engine crankcase if the
atmospheric vent in the cover of the valve is plugged.
NOTE: If your engine has a crankcase pressure signifi-cantly over 3 inches (7.6 mm) WC positive, or has blownout its oil level switch, check this vent for blockage.
1. Vent Hole
PCV Breather Vent
1
Inspection and Reconditioning (Rev. 5/01)
44
BLANK PAGE
45
Engine Assembly
Assembly Precautions
NOTE: Refer to the Specifications chapter for specifica-tions not given in this chapter.
After the components of the engine have been disassem-
bled, repaired, reconditioned, or replaced, the engine can be
assembled. It is very important to keep the engine as clean
as possible while it is being assembled, because dirt is one
of the major factors that contributes to the failure of rebuilt
engines. To avoid problems, take these precautions:
1. Do not assemble the engine in an area where any type
of grinding is done.
2. Keep your workbench, tools, and hands clean.
3. Keep sub-assemblies covered until they are needed.
4. If the engine must be left, even for a short period of
time, cover the engine until you return.
5. Make sure to follow the sequence of assembly exactly.
If certain parts are not installed in the correct order, the
engine may require some disassembly to install these
parts properly.
6. Check all the assembly tolerances such as bearing
clearance, end play, and gear lash carefully. Neglecting
these tolerances can cause serious reliability problems
in a rebuilt engine.
NOTE: Cam bearings supplied by Service Parts aresemi-finished. If cam bearings are replaced, the bear-ings will need to be line bored. If there is any ques-tions concerning type of bearing, check the bearingsagainst the camshaft before installing.
Cam Bearings
NOTE: Cam bearings can be damaged by the solventsused to clean the block. New cam bearings should alwaysbe installed when an engine is overhauled. The cam bear-ings supplied by Service Parts are semi-finished and willneed to be line bored by a machine shop. Always check thebearings against the cam shaft before installing.
1. Install the cam bearing using a cam bearing driver.
Make sure each bearing is installed in the proper posi-
tion. Oil hole alignment is acceptable if the hole in the
bearing has at least 50% of its area open to the hole in
the block. The bearings may be installed at room tem-
perature or they can be chilled to make installation eas-
ier.
NOTE: The C201 cam bearing driver will not work onthis engine. The cam bearings are larger. A newdriver and pilot can easily be machined to fit the C201tool.
1. Cam Bearing Driver
Cam Bearing Installation
1
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
46
2. The front and middle cam bearings are the same. The
rear cam bearing is wider and has a notch on one side.
The front and middle bearings each have two holes
(only one is used). The hole centered in the middle of
the bearing with a groove machined on one side is the
hole that is lined up with the hole in the block. The off-
set hole is not used. Both holes in the rear bearing are
utilized. One hole allows oil into the bearing, and a
machined groove in the bearing routes oil to the second
hole. This hole feeds the rocker arm assembly. The
notch in the bearing faces the rear (flywheel end) of the
engine.
NOTE: The arrows on all three cam bearings point tothe rear of the engine.
3. Coat the lifter barrels and faces with engine assembly
compound or engine oil and install the lifters.
NOTE: This MUST BE DONE before the camshaft isinstalled.
1. Flywheel end 3. Notch toward rear
2. Arrows point toward Flywheel end
4. Water Pump end
Cam Bearing Location
12 4
3
4. Install or check all oil galley plugs and the rear cam-
shaft bearing cover. Silicone sealant must be applied to
the mating surfaces of the camshaft bearing cover to
prevent oil seepage.
Crankshaft Clearance1. Place the new upper main bearing inserts in the block.
Check that all oil holes are aligned.
NOTE: All upper main bearings must have oil holes.The lower inserts do not have oil holes.
1. Valve Lifter
Valve Lifter Installation
1
Main Bearing Positions
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
47
2. Carefully place the crankshaft in the block.
3. Install the half-circle thrust bearings in the block on
both sides of the middle main bearing.
4. Place a piece of Plastigauge on each main journal.
Place the lower main bearing inserts in the main bear-
ing caps. Install and torque the main bearing caps to
123 ft lb (167 N.m) in increments of 30 ft lb (41 N.m)
1. Groove
Thrust Bearing Installation
1
AGA35
Checking with Plastigauge
NOTE: The cast-in-arrows on the main bearing capspoint to the rear of the engine (flywheel end). Themain bearing caps are also numbered, with No.1
being the rear (flywheel end).
5. Remove the main caps and check that the main bearing
clearance is 0.0013 to 0.0033 in. (0.030 to 0.083 mm).
6. Using a dial indicator or feeler gauge, check the crank-
shaft end play. Standard is 0.002 to 0.008 in. (0.05 to
0.20 mm) with a wear limit of 0.012 in. (0.30 mm). If
the clearance is excessive (usually from grinding the
journal undersize) shims must be cut from shim stock
to bring the end play within specifications. It is rare that
there is not enough end play. Check for a warped thrust
bearing. If the end play is still insufficient, lap the
thrust bearings.
1. Embossed “C” 3. Middle
2. Rear (flywheel end) 4. Front
Main Bearing Cap positions
1
4 3 2
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
48
7. Coat the main bearing inserts and crankshaft journals
with engine assembly compound or engine oil. Place a
very light coating of silicone sealant on the sealing sur-
face of the front main cap and under the main cap bolt
heads. Install all main caps and torque to 125 ft-lb (170
N•m) in increments of 30 ft-lb (41 N•m).
NOTE: Front main cap must be lined up flush withfront of block or oil will leak because the front plate isdistorted.
1. Silicone Sealant
Applying Sealant to Main Bearing Caps
End Play Measurement
1
CamshaftLubricate the camshaft lobes, journals and bearings with
engine assembly compound, or engine oil, and install the
camshaft. Install the camshaft thrust plate, torque the bolts
to 14 ft-lb (19 N•m) and install the camshaft gear. Torque
the camshaft gear mounting bolt to 74 ft-lb (110 N•m). Use
a dial indicator to check camshaft end play. If it exceeds the
service limit of .008 in. (0.20 mm), replace the camshaft
gear or camshaft thrust plate.
NOTE: The gear mounting bolt may be easier to torqueafter the camshaft idler is installed. It allows the camshaftto be locked up by blocking the crankshaft.
Checking Camshaft End Play
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
49
Rear PlateThe rear plate is positioned on the rear of the block by a pin
and the special alignment bolt. The alignment of the plate is
critical for two reasons, centering the rear seal on the crank-
shaft and the alignment of the cylinder block and rear plate
at the oil pan sealing surface.
Rear Plate InstallationIf the rear crankshaft seal is not centered on the crankshaft,
oil leaks and premature seal failure will result.
The plate must be flush with the rear of the block or oil
leaks will occur because of oil pan misalignment.
Installing the original plate on the cylinder block should not
cause problems, however using a new plate or a plate from
another engine could result in misalignment because of the
pin position.
If a new plate is used, carefully check for plate misalign-
ment. If it is flush with the block all the way across the rear,
it indicates the seal will also be centered correctly.
1. Must be flush with cylinder block
Rear Plate Position
1
1. Apply a thin coating of silicone sealant to the shaded
areas as shown.
2. Install the plate and torque 8 mm bolts to 14 ft-lb. (19
N•m) and the 10 mm bolts to 30 ft-lb. (41 N•m).
Rear Crankshaft Seals and Seal PlatesTwo types of rear crankshaft seals and seal plates were used
on di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines; Radial Crankshaft Seals and
Axial Crankshaft Seals.
1. Apply Silicone Sealant
Rear Plate Sealant Areas
1. Radial Crankshaft Seal 2. Axial Crankshaft Seal
Seal Identification
1
1
2
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
50
Radial Rear Crankshaft SealAll di 2.2 and se 2.2 engines produced prior to serial
#198650 had radial rear crankshaft seals (P/N 33-2208)
with matching seal plates (P/N 11-5792). Use ONLY Radial
crankshaft seals and matching seal plates on these engines.
Removal and Installation
1. Remove the old radial rear crankshaft seal and wear
ring (see “Crankshaft Wear Ring (radial seal only)” on
page 19 for wear ring removal details).
2. Install the radial rear crankshaft seal after coating the
outside diameter with silicone sealant. Drive the seal to
the bottom of the bore in the plate, using tool 204-592.
Axial Rear Crankshaft Seals
All se 2.2 engines after serial #198650 use a new axial rear
crankshaft seal (P/N 33-2634). This change also includes
the use of a new rear seal plate (P/N 11-8857). The replace-
ment seal is packaged as an assembly. Use ONLY Axial
rear crankshaft seals and matching seal plates on these
engines.
NOTE: The new seal may only be used with the new sealplate. Do not separate the metal ring and rubber sealassembly or the rubber lip will be damaged. Use the fol-lowing information to identify seal plates.
Installing Radial Rear Crankshaft Seal
NOTE: The rear seal plate is identified by the size of thesmaller diameter hole as shown in the table below.
1. Larger Diameter Opening
2. Smaller Diameter Opening
3. Depth of Large Diameter Opening
Rear Seal Identification
New Style Seal Plate
P/N 11-8857
Old Style Seal Plate
P/N 11-5792
#1Larger
Diameter
Approximately4.645 in.
(117.9 mm)
Approximately4.645 in.
(117.9 mm)
#2Smaller
Diameter
Approximately4.570 in.
(116.0 mm)
Approximately4.315 in.
(109.6 mm)
#3Depth of Larger
Diameter
Approximately0.6 in.
(15.2 mm)
Approximately0.5 in.
(12.7 mm)
1
2 3
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
51
NOTE: In extreme emergencies the old seal can beinstalled in a new seal plate. A wear ring (11-5833) mustbe installed on the crankshaft before installing the seal.Take extreme care to insure that the seal is installed nomore than 0.040 in. (1.016 mm) below the outside surfaceof the seal plate.
When a new style seal plate is used as a replacement for an
old style plate, the wear ring should be removed from the
crankshaft and a new style axial seal installed. When
removing the wear ring, use great care to prevent damage to
the crankshaft.
NOTE: Any scratches, nicks or damaged areas of thecrankshaft must be cleaned up or the new metal ring maynot seal to the shaft.
Axial Seal Removal
The seal removal tool (204-848) is designed to remove the
axial rear seals. If the seal has been previously replaced
using Loc-Tite or a similar sealant on the metal ring the pos-
sibility exists that the removal tool will straighten the lip on
the metal ring instead of removing the seal assembly. If this
occurs the rubber portion of the seal may be removed by
prying it out. The metal ring can then be removed by care-
fully cutting it with a chisel.
NOTE: Any scratches, nicks or damaged areas of thecrankshaft must be cleaned up or the new metal ring maynot seal to the shaft.
1. Remove the two hex head screws and the removable
half of the seal puller from the seal removal tool.
2. Press the stationary half of the seal puller past and
behind the outer lip of the metal ring of the seal.
3. While holding the stationary side of the tool engaged
on the lip, press the removable half of the tool in and
behind the lip on the other side of the seal.
4. Reinstall the hex head screws that secure the removable
half of the seal puller. At this point the removable half
will not be flat against the top of the tool, but will be
close enough to get the cap screws started.
5. Carefully tighten the screws while holding the tool
behind the lip. As the screws are tightened the tool will
pull together and firmly grip the lip.
6. With the tool firmly locked behind the lip, tighten the
removal bolt. The entire seal assembly will be drawn
out.
1. Tool Fits Behind Lip on Metal Seal Ring
4. Stationary Half
2. Removable Half 5. Seal in Place
3. Removal Bolt
Axial Seal Removal Tool
1
2
3
4
5
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
52
Axial Seal Installation
The seal installation tool (204-847) is designed to install
the axial rear crankshaft seal at the correct depth and to
insure the correct preload between the rubber lip and the
metal ring.
NOTE: Do not attempt to install this seal without usingthe installation tool. Driving the seal in by hand will crushthe rubber lip into the metal ring and cause the seal toburn up when the engine is run.
If necessary, the inside diameter of the metal ring can be
lightly coated with Loc-Tite 620 or silicone gasket sealer.
The original seal ring was installed without sealant, but the
use of sealant offers some insurance against leaks if the
crankshaft has some surface damage. However, sealant will
make future removal of the ring more difficult. If necessary,
a light coating of silicone sealant may also be applied to the
outside diameter of the seal.
1. Remove any imperfections from the surface of the
crankshaft that contacts the metal ring of the seal.
Check your work by placing the installation tool cup
over the end of the crankshaft to check fit. The cup
must fit smoothly over the crankshaft or it will bind
when installing the seal.
2. Attach the installation tool mandrel to the crankshaft
using two flywheel bolts. The cup stops must be facing
away from the crankshaft as shown.
NOTE: There are three different types of flywheelbolts. If the bolt with an integral washer is used, partof the washer must be ground away so it does notextend past the mandrel. The other two bolt styles mayinterfere if a point of the hex is facing directly out.Grind down the points as required.
3. Place the seal over the installation tool mandrel with
the metal face of the seal toward the engine.
4. Place the tool cup over the mandrel as shown. This
allows you to see when the cup has completely bot-
tomed on the mandrel.
5. Carefully tighten the installation tool bolt. This pulls
the cup over the mandrel and presses the seal into
place. When the bolt stops turning check the cutouts on
the cup to be sure it is completely bottomed on the
mandrel. The seal is now installed to the proper depth.
6. Remove the installation tool.
NOTE: If there are any imperfections on the crank-shaft the cup may jam and be difficult to remove. Tap-ping alternately on each side will assist in removing ajammed cup. This problem can be eliminated by test-ing the fit of the cup on the crankshaft before install-ing the seal.
1. Installation Bolt 4. Mandrel
2. Cup 5. Check Cutout to be Sure the Mandrel Contacts the Cup
3. Seal
Axial Seal Installation Tool
1
2
3
4
5
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
53
Front Plate
Using a new gasket, install the front plate. Make sure the
two hallow dowels are installed to position the plate.
NOTE: The front main cap must be positioned flush withthe front surface of the block or the front plate and timing
cover will be warped.
Idler Gear Support
1. Install the camshaft idler gear support with the oil feed
hole pointing upwards towards the head surface.
1. Alignment Dowels
Position of Alignment Dowels
1. Hole Facing Toward Head Surface
Installing Camshaft Idler Gear Support
1 1
1
2. Place the camshaft idler gear on the camshaft idler gear
support. Make sure the X on the tooth of the camshaft
idler gear is indexed between the two X’s on the teeth
of the crankshaft timing gear, and the Y on the tooth of
the camshaft idler gear is indexed between the two Y’s
on the teeth of the camshaft timing gear.
3. Install the injection pump idler gear, make sure the Z on
the tooth of the camshaft idler gear is indexed between
the two Z’s on the teeth of the injection pump idler
gear, torque the retaining bolt to 76 ft-lb (103 N•m).
Install the camshaft idler gear retaining cap and the
transfer pump cam oil fed line. The oil feed line should
point toward the transfer pump cam. Torque the bolts
to14 ft-lb (19 N•m).
Pump Cam Oil Feed Line
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
54
Z’s
X’sY’s
Timing Gear Marks
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
55
Flywheel InterchangeabilityThere are four possible combinations of 8-pin and 6-pin fly-
wheels with both small and large crankshaft compressors.
Units with small crankshaft compressors and 6-pin fly-
wheels are interchangeable with 8-pin flywheels provided
you have the correct 8-pin clutch or 8-pin coupling.
Units with large crankshaft compressors and 8-pin fly-
wheels are interchangeable with 6-pin flywheels provided
you have the correct 6-pin clutch or 6-pin coupling.
NOTE: See TK-50254 for complete information regard-ing interchageability of components and Service Partnumbers.
1. Indicates Up
Note: 6-pin flywheel shown, 8-pin also used
Flywheel Positioning
1
Flywheel InstallationInstall the flywheel. The flywheel on this engine does not
have a pin to correctly orient the flywheel timing marks to
the crankshaft. A few early engines do not have an arrow
stamped on the flywheel indicating “up” to assist in correct
installation. Use the following procedures for engines with-
out arrows.
NOTE: The following sequence of flywheel/bellhousinginstallation steps must be followed on early engines toensure correct positioning of the flywheel timing marks tothe crankshaft. The flywheel can be installed in the wrongposition and if not corrected will make it impossible totime the fuel injection pump.
1. Rotate the crankshaft to bring No.1 crank pin to top
dead center.
2. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft and secure it with
one bolt. The bolt needs only to be finger tight.
3. Temporarily install the bellhousing and secure it with
one or two bolts.
4. Remove the bolt from the flywheel and carefully rotate
the flywheel until the TC mark on the flywheel lines up
with the pointer on the bellhousing. Do not allow the
crankshaft to rotate.
5. Install the locking ring and torque the eight flywheel
bolts to 86 ft-lb (117 N•m) in the sequence shown.
NOTE: Later production engines have an arrow stampedon the flywheel indicating “up”. Simply rotate the No. 1crank pin to top dead center and install the flywheel withthe arrow pointing up.
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
56
NOTE: When the engines are initially assembled atthe factory the numbers on the rods and caps gener-ally face away from the crankshaft. The rods could beinstalled either way but is a good practice to note theorientation during disassembly and assemble them thesame way.
3. Place the piston rings on the pistons in the proper order.
All four rings are marked with a T. The T faces up.
• No. 1 is a chrome barrel faced ring. It should never
be expanded over 1 in. (24.4 mm).
• No. 2 is a plain compression ring.
• No. 3 is a grooved combination scraper-
compression ring.
• No. 4 is an oil control ring with expander.
4. Make sure that there are no ring end gaps aligned with
each other or with the wrist pin. Coat the cylinder bore,
pistons and rings with engine oil. Using a ring com-
pressor, install the piston assemblies with the marks
pointing forward.
1
2
34
Piston Ring Location
Pistons and Rings1. Check the piston ring end gaps. The end gaps may
exceed the upper limit by 10% (see table). If the end
gaps are out of this range, however, make sure the pis-
tons and rings are the same size and that the cylinder
bores are the correct size for the pistons and rings. If
everything is correct but the end gaps are too small,
carefully file the ring ends to obtain the correct end
gaps.
2. Heat the pistons in hot water 120 to 140 F (49 to 60 C).
Coat the wrist pin and rod bushing with engine assem-
bly compound or engine oil.
The triangular marks on the tops of the pistons should
point to the front of the engine and the numbers of the
rods and rod caps should face away from the crank-
shaft, install the circlips.
Ring Gap (Inches Gap (mm)
1st 0.004 to 0.014 (0.10 to 0.35)
2nd 0.008 to 0.014 (0.20 to 0.35)
3rd 0.006 to 0.012 (0.15 to 0.30)
Oil 0.004 to 0.014 (0.10 to 0.35)
Piston Ring End Gap Table
Checking Piston Ring End Gap
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
57
.
Oil PumpInstall the oil pump. Torque the mounting bolts to 14 ft-lb
(19 N•m). Install the oil supply pipe.
NOTE: Do not install the oil pan yet. The engine shouldbe pressure tested first.
Cylinder Head1. Install the cylinder head gasket (TOP mark up) and the
cylinder head. If the head alignment dowels have been
removed for block boring, make sure the open cut faces
the camshaft when installing the dowels.
Checking Rod Side Clearance
Oil Pump Installation
Connecting Rods1. Place the rod bearing inserts in the rods and rod caps.
Place a piece of Plastigauge on each rod journal, install
the rods and caps and torque to 62 ft-lb (84 N•m). in
increments of 20 ft-lb (27 N•m). The numbers on the
rods and caps should face away from the crankshaft.
Remove the rod caps and check that the rod bearing
clearance is 0.0011 to 0.0027 in. (0.029 to 0.069 mm).
Coat the rod bearing inserts and rod journals with
engine assembly compound or engine oil, install the
rods and caps and torque to 20 ft-lb (27 N•m).
2. Using a feeler gauge, check the rod side clearance. If
the clearance is less than .007-.011 in. (0.175-0.290
mm), the rod can be removed and its side faces lapped
on a lapping board.
Installing Pistons
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
58
STEP #3: Starting again with head bolt #1, repeat the
same procedure outlined in STEP #2, turning each head
bolt 75° or from the 12 o’clock position to the 2
o’clock position. The head bolts are now properly tight-
ened.
Install the push rods. If the push rods are being reused,
replace them in the same order that they were removed.
Install the rocker arm assembly. Make sure the valve
adjusting screws have been loosened and backed out.
Tighten the rocker arm support mounting bolts by alter-
nately turning each bolt one turn at a time. This evenly
applies the valve spring pressure to the rocker arm
assembly. Torque the mounting bolts to 40 ft-lb (54
N•m) in 20 ft-lb (27 N•m) increments.
NOTE: Do not use an air wrench to install the rockerarm support bolts. The tilting of the rocker armassembly combined with the speed of the air wrenchwill gall the bolts in the aluminum rocker arm sup-ports.
Valve AdjustmentAdjust both the intake and exhaust valves to .016 in. (0.40
mm). Refer to the valve adjustment procedure in the Run In
Section.
Adjusting Valves
2. NOTE: Proper torquing sequence of the head bolts is
very critical. A three step angular torquing procedure
outlined below must be used.
STEP #1: Starting approximately in the center of the
head, install head bolt #1 and torque it to 40 ft-lb. (54
N•m). Working your way outward in a angular pattern
as shown, install head bolt #2, then #3, etc. torquing
each bolt to 40 ft-lb. (54 N•m).
STEP #2: Starting with head bolt #1, and the torque
wrench in the 12 o’clock position, turn the head bolt an
additional 75° or until the torque wrench is in the 2
o’clock position. Repeat this procedure on each head
bolt in the same order as shown above.
2
1
5
3
4
7
6
8 9
10
12 13
14
16
15
17
18
11
Headbolt Tightening Sequence
Additional Turning of Head Bolts
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
59
Oil Filter Assembly1. Install the oil filter assembly. Torque to 30 ft-lb (41
N•m). Install a fresh filter.
2. Pressure check the engine. Pressurizing the engine will
show any problem areas in the oiling system and will
prevent a dry start up when the engine is finally test
run.
Fill the pressure tank with engine oil and attach to fit-
ting that supplies the oil pressure gauge.
Check for any other open fittings, such as a feed line
for a bypass filter, and cap them off.
Pressurize the tank to 60 psi (413 kPa) and open the oil
line up to the engine.
The tank will fill the oil filter first and then pressurize
the entire oil system of the engine. Check each individ-
ual rod and main bearing for oil leakage. Each bearing
should drip at a fairly good rate. There should be no
large streams of oil from the bearings or any other part
of the engine. Any excessive leakage indicates a prob-
lem, such as a wrong bearing, cracked or porous block
casting, loose or missing galley plugs.
The transfer pump cam oil feed line should be dripping
oil if the camshaft idler gear support has been installed
correctly.
Rotate No.1 cylinder to 28° BTDC to line up the cam-
shaft feed hole with the supply port. Oil should appear
at the rocker arms.
After the engine oil system has been pressured checked,
the assembly can be completed.
NOTE: Although a C201 engine is shown, a di and se
2.2 test is similar.
3. Install the rocker arm cover using a new O-ring gasket.
Torque the cap nuts to 9 ft-lb (12 N•m).
4. Press the front crankshaft seal into the timing gear
cover after coating the outside edge of the seal with sil-
icone sealant.
5. Using a new O-ring and square seal rings, install the
timing gear cover.
1. Oil Feed Line 2. Pressure Tank
Pressure Checking Engine
1
2
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
60
NOTE: The transfer pump SHOULD NOT beinstalled on the timing gear cover when installing the
cover.
Bellhousing / Oil Pan InstallationThe installation of the bellhousing and oil pan are grouped
together because there are two critical areas in the installa-
tion of these components and the installation of one influ-
ences the installation of the other.
The first area is the concentricity of the bellhousing to the
crankshaft. The bellhousing must be concentric with the
crankshaft centerline within .004 in. (0.10 mm), or the com-
pressor will be damaged. The bellhousing is aligned at the
factory, and this alignment is maintained by a dowel pin and
special shoulder bolt.
1. Square Seal Rings
Installing Timing Gear Cover
1
.
The second area is the junction of the oil pan and bellhous-
ing. If the positioning of the oil pan is not correct, the bell-
housing will be distorted when the two components are
bolted together, causing the bellhousing runout to increase
well above 0.008in. (0.20 mm).
The bellhousing bolts to the back of cylinder block and
projects below the block. The oil pan bolts to the bottom of
the cylinder block and projects rearward to the bellhousing.
The bellhousing and oil pan are bolted together at this point.
1. Dowel Pin 2. Special Alignment Bolt
Bellhousing Dowel Pin and Shoulder Bolt
1. Critical Areas
Bellhousing / Oil Pan Interface
12
1
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
61
The oil pan on the C201 engine was located rigidly with
pins to the block, and if the base did not contact the bell-
housing tightly, spacers would be used to take up the clear-
ance.
The di and se 2.2 engine does not use shims. The dowels for
the oil pan are a loose fit allowing the pan to be shifted
slightly.
1. Apply silicone sealant around the ends of the rubber
gaskets. Insert the tips of the front gasket into the slots
provided in the main cap/block junction. The rear gas-
ket does not utilize tips.
2. Coat the gaskets and engine block with a light coat of
silicone sealant as shown.
NOTE: The amount of sealer used must be very smallor the excess will squeeze into the crankcase. Sealantsqueezing out on the outside of the engine indicatestoo much sealant. If sealant appears on the outside ofthe engine, it is also squeezing out inside the engine.
Installing Rubber Gaskets
3. Place the oil pan on the cylinder block. Install the bolts
and tighten finger tight.
4. Place the bellhousing on the engine block. Install the
bolts, including the two bellhousing to oil pan bolts and
tighten finger tight.
5. Using a dial indicator mounted on the flywheel, check
the bellhousing runout. The bellhousing must be con-
centric with the flywheel to within 0.004 in. (0.1 mm).
If the runout is excessive, the compressor will be dam-
aged.
1. Silicone Sealant
Apply Silicone Sealant to Shaded Areas
1
Checking Runout of Bellhousing with Dial Indicator
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
62
6. If the runout figure is slightly above the limit, use a soft
hammer to tap the bellhousing into place. Then torque
all but the two bellhousing to oil pan bolts.
8 mm 14 ft-lb (19 N•m)
10 mm 30 ft-lb (41 N•m)
7. Use a feeler gauge to check the contact area between
the bellhousing and oil pan for clearance. Lightly tap
the oil pan toward the bellhousing with a soft hammer
to eliminate any clearance. Torque the two 12 mm bell-
housing to oil pan bolts to 56 ft-lb (76 N•m).
8. Torque the oil pan mounting bolts to 14 ft-lb (19 N•m).
9. Check the bellhousing runout.
Occasionally the alteration of the original bellhousing cylin-
der block rear plate combination, such as the use of a new
short block or replacement of the original bellhousing make
it difficult to bring the bellhousing into the specified limit.
If this occurs, do the following:
1. Remove the dowel pin and special shoulder bolt.
2. Install the rear plate if it was removed. Install the fly-
wheel and bellhousing.
3. Make sure the rear plate is flush with the bottom of the
cylinder block.
NOTE: Without the dowel pins the rear plate may notbe concentric with the crankshaft, however the rearseal will usually center the plate. A dial indicator maybe used before installing the flywheel to check con-centricity.
4. Use a dial indicator to align the bellhousing to within
0.004 in. (0.10 mm).
5. Torque all bellhousing bolts.
6. Ream the dowel pin hole to 7/16 in. and install an over-
size pin, P/N 55-5578. Ream the shoulder bolt hole to
0.498 in. and install an oversize bolt, P/N 55-6379.
7. Adjust the oil pan to eliminate any clearance in the bell-
housing to oil pan contact area. Torque the bellhousing
to oil pan bolts and then torque the oil pan bolts.
ManifoldsInstall the intake and exhaust manifolds. Earlier engines
have an exhaust restrictor to control oil migration. Reinstall
the restrictor if applicable.
Reaming Bellhousing for Dowel Pin
Reaming Bellhousing for Shoulder Bolt
Engine Assembly (Rev. 5/01)
63
Injection PumpInstall the injection pump (see the Fuel System Section).
Injection Nozzles1. Install the injection nozzles. Use new O-rings and seal-
ing washers. The sealing washers are installed with
taper facing down. Torque the nozzle retaining nut to
27 ft-lb (37 N•m).
1. Taper Faces Down
Nozzle Sealing Washer
1
2. Install the water pump.
3. Install the thermostat housing.
4. Install the crankshaft pulley boss. Use a light coat of
silicone sealant on the crankshaft to prevent oil seep-
age. Torque the bolts to 161 ft-lb (218 N•m).
64
BLANK PAGE
65
Lubrication System
The di and se 2.2 engines have a pressure lubrication sys-
tem. Oil is circulated by a gear-type oil pump driven off a
gear on the camshaft. The pump has several times the
capacity required by the engine; excess oil is returned to the
crankcase. The oil pump extends down into the oil pan, but
is positioned far enough away from the bottom of the oil
pan that any residue that settles to the bottom is not picked
up by the screened inlet.
From the oil pump, the oil passes through the oil supply
pipe to the oil filter assembly. The oil filter assembly con-
tains the oil pressure relief valve, the bypass valve and oil
filter. The oil is forced through the oil filter into the main oil
galley. The main oil galley supplies oil to the main bearings,
camshaft and camshaft idler gear support.
Oil passes from the main bearings, through drilled passages
in the camshaft, to the connecting rod bearings. The tappets
and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil thrown from con-
necting rod bearings as the crankshaft rotates.
From the rear camshaft bearing, oil passes through an oil
gallery inside the engine to the rocker arm shaft where the
surplus drains back into the crankcase. Oil at the camshaft
idler gear support lubricates the idler bushing and passes
through the transfer pump cam oil feed line to lubricate the
transfer pump cam and the injection pump idler gear.
Oil pressure is automatically regulated to 40-65 psi (275-
448 kPa) by a spring-loaded relief valve. Oil pressure may
exceed this setting when the oil is cold.
Oil pressure is affected by oil temperature, viscosity and
engine speed. Subnormal oil pressure usually may be traced
to lack of oil, faulty relief valve, loose oil connections or
worn bearings.
1. Rocker Arm Shaft 3. Crankshaft 5. Oil Filter
2. Camshaft 4. Oil Pump 6. Low Oil Pressure Switch
Lubrication System
1
2
3
4
56
Lubrication System (Rev. 5/01)
66
BLANK PAGE
67
Fuel System
The fuel system used on the Thermo King di and se 2.2 die-
sel engine is manufactured by Diesel Kiki, Ltd. under
license from Bosch. It uses a high pressure distributor (VE
type) injection pump. Unlike the C201 in-line injection
pump, the governor, timing device, fuel supply pump and
other components are located within the pump itself.
OperationFuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the transfer pump. The
transfer pump delivers fuel to the primary filter and then to
the secondary filter. The outlet fitting at the secondary filter
contains an orifice. The orifice controls the pressure in the
fuel system be allowing a certain amount of fuel to return to
the tank. Filtered fuel then passes through a line from the
fitting between the secondary filter and the orifice, to the
injection pump. Fuel enters the injection pump and then a
fuel supply pump. Pressure in the injection pump is set by a
relief valve located in the output of the fuel supply pump
and a small drilled orifice in the outlet banjo bolt on the top
of the pump. Excess fuel is recycled back through the fuel
supply pump. As engine speed increases so does the internal
injection pump pressure.
The increased pressure moves a piston which in turn
advances the timing of the engine. The banjo fitting also
acts as a transfer point for overflow fuel coming from the
nozzles and a point to bleed air from the system.
Injection pump leakage, injection nozzle overflow and
excess fuel from the fuel filter orifice are then all sent back
to the fuel tank in the return line.
NOTE: Do not switch banjo bolts from one injection pumpto another. When calibrating an injection pump, use thebanjo bolt that belongs to that pump. Using a differentbanjo bolt after calibration can affect engine timing.
Maintenance The fuel system is relatively trouble-free, and, if properly
maintained, will usually not require major service repairs
between engine overhauls.
Contamination is the most common cause of fuel system
problems. Therefore, to ensure best operating results, the
fuel must be clean and fuel tanks free from contaminants.
Change the fuel filters regularly and clean the fuel strainer
on the inlet side of the transfer pump.
1 3
2
4
56
7
8
Supply Fuel LineReturn Fuel Line
1. Water Separator 4. Bleed Screw 7. Injection Pump
2. Injection Line 5. Transfer Pump 8. Fuel Filter
3. Injection Nozzle 6. Hand Pump
Box Type Filter Fuel System
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
68
1. Fuel Filter 5. Inlet Fuel Line
2. Injection Pump 6. Priming Pump
3. Fuel Transfer Pump 7. Bleed Screw
4. Prefilter 8. Return Fuel Line
Late Style Spin-On Filter Fuel System
1
45
6
7
AGA224
8
2
3
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
69
1. Injection Nozzle 6. Inlet Strainer
2. Injection Line 7. Fuel Supply Line
3. Injection Pump 8. Fuel Return Line
4. Hand Pump 9. Secondary Fuel Filter
5. Transfer Pump 10. Primary Fuel Filter
Early Style Spin-On Filter Fuel System
1
2
3
4
5
67
8
9
10
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
70
Whenever the fuel system is opened, take the following pre-
cautions to prevent dirt from entering the system:
1. Cap all fuel lines.
2. Work in a relatively clean are whenever possible.
3. Complete the work in the shortest possible time.
Any major injection pump or nozzle repairs should be done
by a quality diesel injection service speciality shop. The
necessary service equipment and facilities are not found in
most engine rebuild shops because of the large investment
required.
The following procedures may be done in the field:
1. Bleed air from the fuel system.
2. Fuel tank and filter system maintenance.
3. Hand pump replacement or repair.
4. Transfer pump replacement or repair.
5. Injection line replacement.
6. Pump and governor adjustments.
7. Pump timing.
8. Nozzle spray pattern testing and adjustment.
Bleeding the Fuel SystemIf the engine runs out of fuel, repairs are made to the fuel
system, or air gets into the system for any other reason, the
fuel system will have to have the air bled out.
Proceed as follows:
1. Loosen the bleed screw on top of the injection pump
about one turn.
2. Unscrew the hand pump handle and manually prime the
fuel system until air bubbles are no longer visible in the
fuel coming out of the bleed screw.
3. Tighten the bleed screw and screw the hand pump han-
dle back in.
4. Start the engine and observe the engine run for a few
minutes. If the engine fails to start, or starts but stops in
a few minutes, repeat the procedure.
Hand PumpThe hand pump requires little service and is usually
replaced as an assembly. If the hand pump does not appear
to be working, check the following items before replacing
the pump:
1. Fuel level in the tank.
2. Possible air leaks in fuel supply line from the tank.
3. Remove the hand pump and examine the inlet check
valve.
4. Remove the outlet adapter, and examine the outlet
check valve. To test a hand pump, install it on the trans-
fer pump if it was removed. Place a container of diesel
fuel about 3 ft (1 m) below the hand pump and place
the inlet hose into the container.
The hand pump should draw diesel fuel to the transfer
pump in 60 strokes. If the hand pump requires more
than 120 strokes, it should be replaced.
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
71
Injection Pump
Injection Pump Cover O-Ring Replacement
The di 2.2 and the se 2.2 injection pump cover O-ring seal
can be changed without removing the injection pump from
the engine. The proper seal can be purchased from a Zexel
(Diesel Kiki) dealer under part number 146600-1000.
1. Prior to disassembly thoroughly clean the pump with
suitable cleaner and blow it dry.
2. Remove the fuel lines and intake manifold.
3. Remove the fuel return hose from the pump cover and
tie it back out of the way.
4. Remove the fuel inlet hose from the pump and tie it out
of the way. If the hose is left connected fuel may con-
tinually siphon from the filters into the pump.
5. Remove the 8D wire and spike diode connector from
the fuel solenoid terminal. The diode must be removed
from the terminal to allow the seal to slipped over the
pump cover.
6. Remove the throttle control rod from the throttle lever.
NOTE: There are two versions of the throttle lever on di2.2 injection pumps. Early style pumps have a one piecethrottle lever. Later pumps have a two piece lever. If youare working on a pump with a one piece lever go directlyto step #9. If you have a two piece lever you may have toremove the throttle lever to get access to the inner gear endpump cover screw. Use the following steps.
7. Note the alignment of the marks on the throttle lever in
relation to the mark on the throttle shaft. They will not
always be in perfect alignment but will usually be
within a few degrees. The throttle shaft must be
replaced in the same position when reassembled.
8. Use a pliers to unhook the return spring from the throt-
tle lever. Again note the position of the spring. It can be
reassembled at least two different ways. The correct
way is to have the straight end down on the pump cover
and engaged against the boss on the high speed limiting
screw. The hook is then placed in the hole in the middle
of the lever.
9. Remove the throttle lever nut and lock washer and
remove the throttle lever and spring. Note that there is a
thin steel washer located between the throttle lever and
the throttle shaft boss. It usually stays with the lever
and falls out later.
1. Fuel Outlet 3. Fuel Inlet
2. Two Piece Lever 4. 8D wire & Diode
Injection Pump
12
3
4
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
72
10. Remove the four pump cover retaining screws. The low
speed screw may have to be moved to access the inner,
distributor end screw.
NOTE: The pump cover is spring loaded and should beheld down firmly until the last screw is removed. Theouter, gear end screw should be removed last.
11. Carefully lift the injection pump cover until the dowel
pin in the cover is disengaged from the pump body.
Slowly let the full load lever push the cover forward
until it is no longer spring loaded.
12. Tip the pump cover up on the edge of the pump body as
far as possible.
1. Hold pump cover down
2. Remove this screw last
Pump Cover Retaining Screws
1
2
NOTE: Do not remove the spring from the throttle shaftlinkage. The O-ring can be easily installed without discon-necting the spring. If for any reason the spring is discon-nected, it should be reinstalled with the open end of the
loop facing down.
13. Remove the old O-ring from the cover by cutting it or
sliding it up around the cover.
1. Alignment Dowel
2. DO NOT remove spring
Pump Cover
1. Cut old O-ring
O-ring Removal
12
1
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
73
14. Install the new O-ring by sliding it down around the
cover and placing it in the slot.
15. Loosely place the cover on the pump as shown in the
following photograph. The cover should be parallel
with the pump body.
NOTE: Because the full load screw is resting on top of thefull load lever, the dowel pin will be slightly above the sur-face of the injection pump.
16. Slightly elevate the front of the pump cover and then
slide it back until it contacts the fuel solenoid.
17. Just before the cover reaches the fuel solenoid, the full
load screw should drop off the full load lever. The
dowel pin should now be touching the pump body.
O-ring Installation
NOTE: If the dowel pin is not resting on the pump body itis still resting on the full load lever. You may have to movethe cover around slightly to index it. Level off the coverand push it down and forward against the spring tensionuntil the dowel drops into it’s bore. Doing it correctly maytake a little practice. Push down against the spring pres-sure and check to see that the entire pump cover is con-tacting the pump body. If not, the cover is still not installedcorrectly.
18. Install the outer, gear end mounting screw first to hold
the cover in place, then install the three other screws.
19. If you had to remove the throttle lever, reinstall the
return spring and lever. Make sure to index the lever
with the shaft using the marks. The low speed stop
screw may have to be backed all the way out to get
clearance for correct alignment
Installing Retaining ScrewsPump Cover Alignment
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
74
.
20. Reinstall the fuel inlet line, the outlet line and the throt-
tle rod on the pump.
21. Readjust and secure the low speed screw.
22. Reinstall the 8D wire and the spike diode on the fuel
solenoid.
23. Start and run the engine and check for fuel leaks. Read-
just low speed if necessary.
Injection Pump Speed AdjustmentTo determine the correct speed settings for a particular
Thermo King unit, consult the maintenance manual for that
model. As a general rule, most transport units run at 1300-
1350 rpm on low speed and 2200 rpm on high speed. Most
generator sets run at 1800 rpm (single speed). There are
exceptions to this general rule such as some Super II units,
so it is important to check the proper maintenance manual if
there is a question.
High Speed
1. Start the unit and check the high speed rpm.
2. Shut the unit off.
3. Remove the control rod from the high speed solenoid.
1. Correct Spring Stop
2. Incorrect Spring Stop - DO NOT USE
Spring Stop Position
1 2
4. Remove the boot from the high speed solenoid.
5. Pull the plunger out of the solenoid enough to loosen
the jam nut. An allen wrench placed in the hex opening
in the face of the plunger will keep the plunger from
turning. Turn the plunger eye bolt clockwise to increase
the speed and counter clockwise to decrease the speed.
6. Replace the control rod, start the unit and check the
speed. When the speed is correct, tighten the jam nut
and replace the solenoid boot.
NOTE: If the correct speed cannot be set closeenough with half turns of the eye bolt, use the allenwrench to turn the plunger in smaller increments.
Low Speed
1. Loosen the jam nut on the low speed adjustment screw.
2. Run the unit with the speed solenoid de-engerized.
Adjust the screw to the speed desired.
3. Shut the unit off and retighten jam nut.
Maximum Speed
The maximum speed limit screw is adjusted and sealed at
the factory. It should not need adjustment. If it has been
tampered with, it should be adjusted to give .020 in. (0.5
mm) clearance to the pump control lever when the unit is in
high speed.
Full Load Adjusting Screw
The full load screw is reset and sealed at the factory and
should not need adjustment. If the adjustment has been tam-
pered with, the injection pump should be recalibrated by a
diesel injection service shop.
In an emergency, a rough setting for the screw is approxi-
mately 0.61 in. (1.55 mm) from the tip of the screw to the
face of the nut.
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
75
NOTE: The adjustment of the full load screw can damage
the engine and may void the warranty.
Injection Nozzles
Testing1. Attach the nozzle assembly to the nozzle tester P/N
204-290.
WARNING: Keep hands away from sprayingnozzles. The pressure of the fuel spraying fromthe nozzle can penetrate into flesh destroyingtissues and may cause blood poisoning.
1. Maximum Speed Limit (factory set)
2. Full Load Adjusting Screw (factory set)
3. Low Speed Adjustment
Adjusting Speeds
1
2
3
2. Test for buzzing. Close the hand valve and operate the
handle several times rapidly with full strokes. If the
nozzle is operating properly, there will be a buzz and a
high whistle.
NOTE: If the pumping speed is increased, the buzzingstops and the oil then leaves the nozzles with a hissingnoise.
3. Check the spray pattern. Operate the pump at about 1
stroke per second and observe the spray pattern. There
should be four distinct uniform patterns, one out of
each quadrant of the nozzle.
Nozzle Tester
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
76
4. Test the opening pressure. Open the hand valve so the
gauge will register. Slowly force the handle down and
determine the opening pressure. The nozzle should
buzz distinctly during spraying. Opening pressure
should be 2633 to 2704 psi (18142 to 18632 kPa) and
all the nozzles should be within 70 psi (482 kPa) of
each other. If the opening pressure needs adjustment,
the nozzle must be disassembled and the adjusting
shims changed. Refer to the nozzle assembly and open-
ing pressure adjustment section.
5. Test for dripping. Open the hand valve and operate the
pump slowly to build the pressure up to within 300 psi
(2067 kPa) of the opening pressure. there should be no
dripping until the pressure is within 300 psi (2067 kPa0
of the opening pressure.
NOTE: during the testing procedures, there should bevery little if any fuel flowing from the tube. If enoughfuel is leaking past the nozzle valve and seat to flowout of the fuel return tube during testing, the nozzleshould be repaired or replaced.
Correct Top View
Incorrect
Disassembly and Inspection1. Clamp the nozzle body in a vise with the nozzle nut up.
Carefully remove the nozzle nut, nozzle seat and nozzle
valve, locating pins and spacer. Keep the nozzle seat
and valve together as a set.
NOTE: If the nozzle seat turns with the nozzle nut thelocating pins may be broken. Soak the nozzle assem-bly in a cleaning solution such as carbon cleanerbefore removing the retaining nut.
2. Take the nozzle boy out of the vise and remove the
push rod, spring and adjusting shim(s).
3. Clean all the parts in clean filtered fuel using a nozzle
cleaning kit P/N 204-283.
NOTE: Do not use any abrasive materials to clean thenozzle seat, nozzle valve, the spacer, or the matingsurfaces of the nozzle body.
4. Inspect all parts for damage or wear and replace as nec-
essary.
Assembly and Opening Pressure Adjustment1. Clamp the nozzle body in a vise with the nozzle nut end
up.
2. Place the adjusting shim(s) in the nozzle body. If the
opening pressure of the nozzle needs to be adjusted
change the shims(s) accordingly. Add shims, or change
to a larger shim to increase the pressure. Remove shims
or change to a smaller shim to reduce the pressure.
3. Place the spring, push rod and locating pins in the noz-
zle body.
4. Place the spacer over the locating pins and check the
alignment.
5. Submerge the nozzle valve and nozzle seat separately
in clean, filtered diesel fuel. Place the nozzle valve in
the nozzle seat while holding the seat. Pull the valve
out approximately .25 in. (6 mm).
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
77
Release the valve, it should slide into the seat by itself.
Turn the valve in the seat and repeat several times. If
the valve does not consistently slide smoothly into the
seat, replace the nozzle valve and seat set.
NOTE: When installing a new nozzle valve and seatset, thoroughly clean them in solvent to remove theanti-rust compound and then follow the above proce-dures before installing the set.
6. Carefully place the nozzle valve and seat set on the
locating pins and the spacer. Check the alignment.
Install the nozzle nut and torque to 29 to 36 ft-lb (39 to
49 N•m)
7. Attach the nozzle assembly to a nozzle tester and test
the opening adjustment, carefully disassembly the noz-
zle, change the shim(s) as required, and assemble and
test the nozzle to obtain the correct opening pressure.
NOTE: Adjust opening pressure so that it is 200 psi(1379 kPa) more than what specifications call for2833 to 2904 psi (19,534 to 20,023 kPa). The injectionnozzles push rod, spring and adjusting shim need to“seat” themselves. The “over-adjustment” of openingpressure will compensate for the seating of the pushrod, spring and adjustment shim.
If further work is needed, send the nozzle to a dieselinjection service shop.
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
78
1. Adjusting Shim 4. Spacer Rod 7. Fuel Return Tube
2. Spring 5. Nozzle Valve and Seat 8. Nozzle Body
3. Push Rod 6. Nozzle Nut 9. Locating Pins
1
2
3
4
5
6
9
8
7
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
79
Transfer Pump
The transfer pump is driven by a cam on the injection pump
idler gear and forces fuel through the filter to the injection
pump. When the system reaches design fuel pressure, this
pressure prevents the spring from returning the piston until
some fuel is used. The pressure then drops allowing the
spring to return the piston, this maintains a fairly constant
system pressure. The transfer pump should maintain 18 to
20 psi (124 to 138 kPa) fuel pressure at the injection pump
in a spin-on filter fuel system, and should maintain 7 psi (48
kPa) in the box type filter fuel system.
Transfer Pump Inspection
1. Remove the transfer pump and depress the tappet with
a finger. If tappet cannot be depressed fully, it indicates
that the push rod, tappet or the piston is seized or stick-
ing.
2. If the tappet can be depressed fully and the hand pump
operates properly, the piston may have excessive clear-
ance.
3. Remove the plug screw.
NOTE: The plug screw is under slight spring pres-sure.
4. Examine the piston for wear. The clearance between the
piston and body is 0.001 (0.025 mm).
5. If the clearance is excessive or piston or body is scored,
the pump will require replacement.
1. Cam Lobe
Beginning of Fuel Delivery
1. Cam Lobe
Fuel Intake and Delivery
1. Cam Lobe
Control of Fuel Delivery
1 1 1
Transfer Pump Operation
1. Hand Pump Assy. 11. Plug
2. O-Ring 12. Eyebolt
3. Spring 13. Tappet
4. Valve 14. Guide
5. Eyebolt 15. Pin
6. Gasket 16. Roller
7. Adapter 17. Snap Ring
8. Piston 18. Washer
9. Spring 19. Plug
10. Gasket
Exploded View of di 2.2 Transfer Pump
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
80
1. Pump Assy.-hand 7. Adapter 13. Tappet 19. Plug
2. O-Ring 8. Gasket 14. Guide 20. Piston
3. Spring 9. Plug 15. Pin 21. Spring
4. Valve 10. Not Used 16. Roller 22. Gasket
5. Bolt-eye 11. Gasket 17. Ring 23. Plug
6. Gasket-eye bolt 12. Bolt-eye 18. Washer
Exploded View of se 2.2 Transfer Pump
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
81
Transfer Pump Testing
Assemble the transfer pump and perform the following
tests.
Air Pressure TestCap off the outlet, screw in the hand pump handle and
tighten. Apply pressure to the inlet at 28 psi (193 kPa) and
submerge the transfer pump in clean diesel fuel. A small
amount of air, 1.8 cu. in. / min. (30 cc/min), should be leak-
ing between the push rod and pump body. Any other air
leaks should be repaired.
Suction TestInstalling the transfer pump and disconnect the fuel sole-
noid.
1. Connect a fuel hose approximately 6.6 ft (2 m) long to
the inlet adapter. Keep the hand pump handle screwed
all the way in.
2. Position a container filled with diesel fuel about 3.3 ft
(1 m) below the level of the transfer pump, and place
the loose end of the hose into the diesel fuel in the con-
tainer.
3. Turn the engine over with the starter. The transfer pump
should pump fuel out of the outlet within 60 revolu-
tions.
If more than 120 revolutions are required to pump fuel
through the pump, repair or replace the transfer pump.
1. Hand Pump 6. Fuel Strainer
2. Small Air Leak Normal
7. Filter
3. Outlet 8. Inlet
4. Check Valve 9. Check Valve
5. Push Rod 10. Pump Body
Cutaway View of Transfer Pump
1
23
4
5
6
8
9
10
7
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
82
Installation and Timing of Injection Pump
Currently there are three generations of 2.2 engines in ser-
vice and two different types of injection pumps and timing
marks.
NOTE: You must verify which type of engine you havebefore proceeding with the installation on the injectionpump.
First Generation di 2.2 Engines
a. produced through April 1992
b. have coarse mesh timing gears
c. 14° Timing Mark
Second Generation se 2.2 Engines
a. produced April 1992 through December 1998
b. have coarse mesh and fine mesh timing gears
c. 14° Timing Mark
Third Generation 2.2 EPA / Low Noise Engines
a. beginning 1998
b. serial number begins with “E”
c. have fine mesh timing gears
d. 6° Timing Mark
1. Remove the rocker arm cover and rotate the engine in
the direction of rotation, clockwise from the front, until
both push rods on No. 1 cylinder are loose and the
injection timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the
pointer in the bellhousing.
NOTE: First and Second Generation engines have14° timing marks, while Third Generation EPA/LowNoise engines have 6° timing marks.
NOTE: The injection timing mark is a line scribed inthe flywheel. The 14° mark is approximately 1-3/8 in.(35 mm) from the TC mark and the 6° mark is approx-imately 5/8 in. (1.6 mm) from the TC mark. The injec-tion timing mark has no identification markings otherthan the scribed line.
14° Timing Mark
First & Second Generation Engines
6° Timing Mark
Third Generation Engines
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
83
1. Timing Mark
Injection Pump Timing Mark
1
First and Second Generation Engines
On First and Second Generation Engines only, an alterna-
tive method is to remove both access covers from the timing
gear cover and rotate the engine in the direction of rotation
until the “O” on the cam gear lines up with the pointer in the
cam gear access hole, and the injection timing mark lines up
with the pointer in the bellhousing.
The engine now has No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection
mark of its compression stroke.
1. Before installing the pump, rotate the pump gear until
the “O” marked on the gear is approximately in the 10
o’clock position as you face the gear end of the pump.
2. Install the pump in the engine lining up the “O” with
the timing mark cast into the access hole.
3. Install and torque the injection pump mounting bolts.
1
3
1. Injection Pump Gear Access Hole 3. Access Cover
2. Cam Gear Access Hole
Timing Gear Marks
2
Fuel System (Rev. 5/01)
84
Third Generation EPA/Low Noise Engines
On Third Generation EPA/Low Noise Engines only, the
“O” on the cam gear and injection pump gear will not line
up with the pointer. The “O” on the cam gear will be
approximately 1-1/2 notches from the pointer, and the “O”
on the injection pump gear will also be approximately 1-1/2notches from the pointer. The “O”s will be positioned as
shown.
Checking the Timing using a Dial Indicator
1. Remove the 8 mm timing bolt located at the back of the
injection pump between the injection lines. Install the
special dial indicator, P/N 204-589 in its place. Make
sure the adapter bottoms out slightly on the pump hous-
ing. Insert the dial indicator into the adaptor until the
dial indicator contacts the pump plunger. Preload the
dial indicator at least 0.080 in. (21 mm) and lock the
dial indicator in place by tightening the locking collar.
Third Generation Engine Timing Mark
2. Rotate the engine backwards, counterclockwise from
the front to approximately 3.5 in. (89 mm) from the TC
mark on the flywheel.
3. Adjust the dial indicator to zero. The pump plunger
should be at the bottom of its stroke. To check this,
rotate the engine back and forth no more than 0.5 in.
(13 mm). The dial indicator should stay at zero.
4. Rotate the engine forward, clockwise from the front, to
the injection timing mark.
5. The dial indicator should now show the pump plunger
is at 0.020 in. (0.5 mm) from the bottom of its stroke
and ready to inject fuel.
6. If the timing position is not correct, loosen the bolts on
the front flange of the pump.
NOTE: The di 2.2 has two bolts on the front flange.The se 2.2 has three bolts on the front flange.
7. If the dial indicator shows a figure larger than 0.020 in.
(0.5 mm). rotate the top of the pump away from the
engine until the dial indicator reads the correct value. A
smaller figure requires the pump be turned in towards
the engine until the correct value is reached. Tighten
the bolts and lock the pump in position.
8. Perform a final check by turning the engine backwards,
counterclockwise from the front, beyond the injection
timing mark and then clockwise back to the injection
timing mark. The dial indicator should now be at 0.020
in. (0.5 mm). Slight adjustments may be necessary.
9. Remove the dial indicator and replace the timing bolt.
85
Electrical
Gear Reduction Starter (Hitachi)
Construction and Operating Principle
The gear reduction starter consists of a motor that develops
starting torque, a gear reduction pinion assembly and a
starter solenoid. The starter solenoid energizes the motor
and shifts the pinion assembly to mesh with the engine ring
gear. The smaller armature shaft gear meshes with the larger
gear of the pinion assembly, producing the speed reduction
and torque increase.
Motor
The motor is a series wound dc motor, meaning the arma-
ture and field coil windings are wired in series.
Starter Solenoid
The starter solenoid actuates the shift lever that forces the
pinion assembly to mesh with the ring gear and holds it in
position while cranking. Contacts in the starter solenoid
conducts electrical power to the motor. A series winding
actuates the shift lever and closes the contacts. A shunt
winding holds the switch in that position until the starter
switch is opened.
Pinion Assembly
The pinion assembly has an over-running clutch that allows
the pinion shaft to turn freely after the engine ring gear
spins the pinion faster than starter motor speed.
Troubleshooting
To identify faults in the starter system, refer to the trouble-
shooting flow chart.
1. Armature 7. Gear Case
2. Field Coil 8. Shift Lever
3. Brush 9. Torsion Spring
4. Rear Cover 10. Starter Solenoid
5. Pinion Shaft 11. Armature Shaft Gear
6. Pinion Clutch
Reduction Starter Construction
1. Start/Preheat Switch
5. Field Coil
2. Series Coil 6. Battery
3. Shunt Coil 7. Solenoid Contacts
4. Armature
Reduction Starter’s Electrical Circuit
6
2
7
5
4
3
1
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
86
NO
NO
YES
• Check pinion motion.
• Check the shift lever for
deformation, the torsion
spring for excessive wear
and the pinion for free
movement.
• Check the condition of the
pinion and the ring gear
teeth.
Engine does not start.
Does engine tun over with
continued cranking?
Does starter rotate? 1
Is there anything unusual about
the meshing of the pinion and
ring gear teeth?
Check the pinion clutch for
damage. Replace if necessary.
NO
Check the battery’s charge, the
battery terminal connections
and condition.
Check the consistency of the
oil in the engine. Is it thick?
Does the engine turn over if
the starter is replaced?
Inspect the inside of the engine.
YES
Does the flywheel rotate?
NO(or turns slowly)
YES
Check fuel system.
YES• Charge or replace bat-
tery.
• Repair connections and
clean corrosion off bat-
tery terminals.NO
Change engine oil.
YES
NO
NO
YESRepair or replace starter.
(or rotation is slow)
Repair or replace start switch,
starter relay or starter solenoid.
Starter does not stop if start
switch is turned off.CAUTION: If any abnormalityis found, immediately discon-nect battery negative terminal.
Troubleshooting Chart
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
87
1Check the battery’s charge, the battery
terminal connections and condition.
• Charge or replace battery.
• Repair connections and
clean corrosion off battery
Can you hear the starter solenoid operating?
NO
O.K.
Check and repair wiring and
connections between starter
solenoid and starter switch.
Check and replace if necessary:
• Starter switch
• Starter solenoid
NO
Remove starter from engine.
Does starter turn under no load conditions
by connecting battery positive terminal to
M terminal of starter and battery negative
terminal to the starter case?
The starter solenoid contacts are faulty.
Replace.
YES
YES
• Check brushes. If worn,
replace.
• If there is no wear on the
brush, replace the motor
(including the field coil and
armature).
NO
Troubleshooting Chart
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
88
Starter Disassembly and Overhaul
1. Remove the 8 mm terminal nut from the starter sole-
noid, and disconnect the stator lead wire.
2. Remove the 4 mm bolts from the rear cover, remove the
5 mm through bolts from the motor, and remove the
rear cover.
1. 8 mm Terminal Nut
Removing Terminal Nut
1. 4 mm Bolts 2. 5 mm Bolts
Removing Rear Cover
1
1
2
3. Lift the brush springs with a brush spring lifter tool so
that the negative brush is separated from the surface of
the commutator. Then remove the brushes connected to
the field coil windings. Remove the brush holder
assembly.
4. Remove the armature from the stator.
5. Remove the stator from the gear case.
Removing Armature and Stator
Removing Brush Holder Assembly
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
89
6. Remove the 6 x 10 mm bolts that mount the starter
solenoid. Then remove the starter solenoid from the
gear case, and remove the torsion spring .
7. Remove the dust cover and then the shift lever from the
gear case .
1. 6 x 10 mm Bolts 3. Torsion Spring
2. Starter Solenoid
Removing Starter Solenoid
1. Dust Cover 3. Gear Case
2. Shift Lever
Removing Dust Cover and Shift Lever
1 2
3
3
2 1
8. Remove the three 4 mm bolts holding the bearing
retainer to the gear case, and remove the bearing
retainer.
9. Remove the pinion assembly from the gear case. Using
a slotted screwdriver, remove the pinion stop clip from
the pinion while pushing the pinion stop toward the
pinion.
10. Remove the pinion stop and retaining spring from the
pinion shaft. Remove the pinion shaft from the clutch
assembly.
1. 4 mm Bolts 3. Gear Case
2. Bearing Retainer
Removing Bearing Retainer and Pinion Assembly
12
3
Removing Pinion Stop Clip
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
90
Starter Inspection
1. The starter solenoid can be tested with an ohmmeter.
First, test for continuity between the “S” terminal and
switch body. If there is no continuity, the shunt coil is
open and the switch must be replaced.
1. Pinion Stop Clip 4. Pinion Clutch
2. Pinion Stop 5. Pinion Shaft
3. Retaining Spring
Disassembling Pinion Assembly
1. Switch Body 2. “S” Terminal
Testing Shunt Coil
12
34
5
AGA143
2
1
2. Test for continuity between the “S” and “M” terminals.
If there is no continuity, the series coil is open and the
switch must be replaced.
3. Test the continuity of the solenoid contacts, between
the “B” and “M” terminals. Press the plunger into the
solenoid to check the continuity. Try this test several
times while wiggling the plunger. Roughness or corro-
sion may make the continuity of the contacts unreli-
able; if so, replace the solenoid.
1. “S” Terminal 2. “M” Terminal
Testing Series Coil
1. “B” Terminal 2. “M” Terminal
Testing Solenoid Contacts
AGA144
1
2
AGA145
1
2
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
91
Brush Holder Assembly
1. Test the brush holder assembly with an ohmmeter. The
positive brush holder should show infinite resistance to
the plate and negative brushes should have continuity
to the plate.
2. Measure the length of the brushes. Replace all the
brushes as a set if any brush is less than 0.35 in. (9 mm)
on the short side.
3. Inspect the brush springs for signs of overheating or
other damage. Measure the brush spring tension with a
spring scale. The tension should be 5.5 - 7.7 lb (2.5 -
3.5 kg) at the point of contact with a brush sitting on the
commutator. Replace the brush springs if necessary
1. Brush
Measure Brush Length
AEA370
AEA371
1
.
Stator Assembly
1. Inspect the stator and field coils for any damage, loose
field cores, or signs of overheated field coils such as
discolored or burnt insulation. Field coils that show
signs of overheating should be replaced.
2. Check the field coils for continuity from each brush or
brush lead wire to the stator lead wire.
Test Brush Springs
AEA373
Testing Field Coils
Testing Brush Holder Assembly
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
92
3. Test the field coil insulation. Place an ohmmeter on
Rx1000 and check from the stator lead wire to the sta-
tor case. The ohmmeter should show infinite resistance.
Any continuity indicates bad insulation.
NOTE: If one coil is bad all the coils will show conti-nuity. Check the coils individually to isolate the badone.
Armature Assembly
1. Inspect the armature and commutator for any thrown
solder, deformed windings, signs of overheating and
shaft or gear damage.
2. Measure the commutator on the brush path. The stan-
dard diameter is 1.44 in. (36.5 mm). Replace the arma-
ture if the commutator is less than 1.40 in. (35.5 mm).
AEA373
Testing Field Coil Insulation
3. Using a dial indicator and a lathe, check the armature
core for surface distortion, deflection and out of round.
Check the commutator for roughness, corrosion and out
of round. The maximum deviation is .004 in. (0.10
mm). It may be possible to turn the armature to meet
specifications. Clean the commutator with fine sandpa-
per (500-600 grit). Turn the commutator in a lathe if
needed.
1. Commutator 2. Core
Dial Indicate Armature
Measure Commutator Diameter
AGA141
2
1
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
93
4. After turning the commutator in a lathe, check the
undercut of the insulating material. If the undercut is
less than 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), file it down to 0.20-0.031
in. (0.5-0.8 mm)
1. Insulator 3. Commutator Segments
2. Undercut 0.020 - 0.031 (0.5 - 0.8 mm)
Insulating Material Undercut
AEA375
Clean Commutator
Correct
12
3
Incorrect
AGA142
5. Test the armature for open or shorted coils using a
growler. An ammeter or a test light is used to check the
current induced into the armature by the growler. Move
the test leads from commutator segment to commutator
segment while rotating the armature in the growler. An
open or shorted coil will show no or low current and
will not light the test light. If a coil is bad, replace the
armature.
6. Test insulation of the armature coils. Using a growler,
test for current between the commutator segments, test
for current between the commutator segments and the
core and shaft. An ammeter should show no current and
a test light should not light. Using a ohmmeter on
Rx1000, there should be no continuity. If the insulation
is bad replace the armature.
7. Check the armature bearings. The bearings should be
smooth and quiet. Replace the bearings if they are
rough, noisy or have excessive free play.
AEA377
Testing Armature Insulation
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
94
Pinion Assembly
1. Inspect the pinion assembly for signs of wear, damage
or corrosion.
2. Check the pinion clutch operation. While holding the
clutch gear stationary, rotate the pinion shaft. It should
turn smoothly in one direction and the clutch should
lock in the other direction.
3. Push on the shift lever end of the pinion shaft and see
that the pinion slides out smoothly. Repair any rough-
ness or stiffness. Excessive grease may make the
motion stiff, so only a light coating of grease should be
used.
Check Pinion Clutch
Check Pinion Clutch
4. Check the bearing. The bearing should be smooth and
quiet. Replace the bearing if the bearing is rough, noisy
or has excessive free play.
5. After completing these checks, lightly grease the pinion
shaft and assemble the pinion assembly.
Starter Reassembly
The reduction starter can now be assembled. Where lubrica-
tion is required, use light grease. Observe the torque specifi-
cations shown below when tightening bolts.
1. Place the pinion assembly in the gear case. Install the
bearing retainer and bolts.
2. Install the shift lever, torsion spring and dust cover.
Bolt Torque
4 mm Bearing Retainer 15 - 20 in.-lb (1.7 - 2.3 N•m)
4 mm Rear Cover 15 - 20 in.-lb (1.7 - 2.3 N•m)
5 mm through 43 - 55 in.-lb (4.9 - 6.2 N•m)
6 mm Solenoid Mount 51 - 72 in.-lb (5.8 - 8.1 N•m)
8 mm Solenoid Terminal Nut 64 - 85 in.-lb (7.2 - 9.6 N•m)
Bearing Check
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
95
3. Place the solenoid in the shift arm and gear case, pry
the pinion forward to aid assembly, install the solenoid
mount bolts.
4. After assembly, connect a 12 Volt battery to the sole-
noid, positive to the “S” terminal and negative to the
the “M” terminal. The pinion snaps out into the
engaged position. Measure the additional distance the
pinion travels when pulled out to its stop. The addi-
tional distance should be 0.012-0.059 in. (0.3-1.5 mm).
1. Gear Case 3. Starter Solenoid
2. Dust Cover
Solenoid and Shift Lever Assembly
12
3
Pinion Motion Check
If the motion is outside this range, the solenoid mount-
ing must be adjusted as follows:
First, remove the 6 mm bolts holding the solenoid to
the gear case. Do not disconnect the shift lever.
Second, rotate the spacer washers to increase or
decrease the spacing. Increasing the spacing will
decrease the pinion motion.
Finally, replace the solenoid mount bolts and measure
the pinion motion. Repeat the spacing adjustment until
the measurement falls in the specified range.
5. Place the stator on the gear case.
6. Place the armature in the stator and check that the
armature shaft gear meshes with the pinion clutch gear.
7. Install the brush holder assembly. Place the brushes in
the brush holder and check that the brushes move
freely.
8. Place the brush springs on the brushes and check that
the springs hold the brushes against the commutator.
9. If the brush spring tension have not already been
checked, measure the brush spring tension with a
spring scale. The tension should be 5.5-7.7 lb.(2.5-3.5
kg). Replace the brush springs if necessary.
10. Install the rear cover, rear cover bolts and through bolts.
Brush Spring Tension
Electrical (Rev. 5/01)
96
No Load Test
To check the starter specifications, perform the following
test. However, do not run the test for more than 30 seconds
at a time.
1. Set the starter securely on a test bench and make the
connections.
2. When the switch is turned on, current flows through the
starter in a no-load condition.
3. The no-load current should be less than 140 amps, the
voltage should be 11 volts and the speed 3,900 rpm.
NOTE: Do not run the starter with no load for morethan 30 seconds or damage to the starter will occur.
1. Switch 3. Battery
2. Ammeter 4. Voltmeter
Starter Connections
1
2
34
Glow Plugs
Glow plugs heat the combustion chamber to aid in quick
starting. They are energized when the preheat switch is
pressed and when the starter switch is pressed.
The heating element is encased in the stainless steel sheath
filled with sintered magnesium oxide powder. One end of
the heating wire is connected to the center electrode.
The glow plugs are connected in parallel so that if one of
them fails, the other plugs will remain operative.
To check for defective glow plug, remove the bus bar
between the glow plugs. Using an ohmmeter, check each
plug individually for continuity, dead shorts to ground and
for a resistance of approximately 1.8 ohm. Normally, each
plug should draw approximately 7 amps.
97
Run In Procedure
Engine Run InThe run in of a rebuilt engine will often determine the oil
consumption, power output, and other variables during the
service life of the engine. It is important to run in a rebuilt
engine properly. How an engine will be run in is determined
by the type of equipment and the time that is available.
Thermo King recommends an engine be run in on a dyna-
mometer if possible.
Pressurize the lubrication system of the engine with an oil
pressure tank if the engine has been stored for any length of
time. This prevents a dry start.
All new or rebuilt engines should be run in low speed for
the first 10 minutes when initially started. This ensures that
any air is purged from the cooling system and that oil flow
is established to all parts of the lubrication system.
Bleeding Air from the Coolant SystemAir must be thoroughly bled from the block before the
engine is started.
NOTE: If the engines runs with air trapped in the block,the engine may be damaged. The high water temperatureswitch may not protect an engine that has air trapped inthe block. A high water temperature switch is designed tomeasure the temperature of engine coolant, it cannotmeasure trapped air in the block.
Normally when the cooling system on a di 2.2 or se 2.2
engine is drained, approximately 8 qt. (7.6 l) of coolant
drains out. Often when the system is refilled, it appears that
about 4 qt. (3.8 l) of coolant fill the system. This happens
because air is trapped in the engine block. Air can be
trapped in the block by coolant that remains above the ther-
mostat after the system is drained.
NOTE: Do not start the engine without bleeding the airout of the block.
1. Disconnect the accumulator hose from the thermostat
housing or from the accumulator before adding coolant
into the cooling system. On units without accumulator
hoses, disconnect the bypass hose under the thermostat
housing.
2. Slowly add coolant into the system until you see cool-
ant at the accumulator hose fitting on the thermostat
housing, or at the accumulator hose if the hose was dis-
connected from the accumulator, or at the bypass hose
fitting.
3. Connect the accumulator hose to the thermostat hous-
ing or the accumulator, or connect the bypass hose to its
fitting.
4. Add coolant into the system until it appears to be full.
5. Make sure the amount of coolant that goes back into the
system is approximately equal to the amount of coolant
that came out of the system.
6. Start the engine and let it run for 1 minute in LOW
SPEED, and then shut it off.
7. Check the coolant level and add coolant if necessary.
8. Repeat steps six and seven until the coolant level stabi-
lizes.
Dynamometer Run In Procedure1. Pressurize the lubrication system of the engine with an
oil pressure tank if the engine has been stored for any
length of time. This prevents a dry start.
2. Start the engine and run it at 1400 rpm with a light load
of 2-3 hp.
3. Run the engine at 1400 rpm for 15 minutes with
approximately 5 hp load.
4. Run the engine at 2200 rpm for 30 minutes with a 8-9
hp load.
5. Run the engine at 1400 rpm for 30 minutes with a 5 hp
load.
6. Run the engine at 2200 rpm for 10 minutes with a 10-
12 hp load.
If time permits, additional run in time is desirable. Vary the
speed and load in ranges between 3 to 8 hp and 1400 to
2200 rpm ranges.
Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)
98
Run In Procedure Without Dynamometer
If a dynamometer is unavailable, use the following proce-
dure:
1. Run the engine on a test stand with no load for approxi-
mately 15 minutes in both low speed (1400 rpm) and
high speed (2200 rpm). Check the engine for abnormal
noises, coolant, fuel, or oil leaks.
NOTE: DO NOT run a newly rebuilt engine without aload for a long period of time. This can cause theengine’s oil consumption to be higher than normal.
2. Mount the engine in a unit and run the unit on high
speed heat for 2 hours. Occasionally return the unit to
low speed heat to vary the compression pressures and
engine temperatures.
3. Mount the unit on a trailer and run the unit in high
speed heat with trailer doors open for 2 to 10 hours
depending on the time available.
Go Power Dynamometer
Engine Test Stand
Valve Clearance Adjustment
NOTE: Remove the wire from the fuel solenoid to preventthe engine from starting and causing personnel injury.
1. Remove the rocker arm cover. Torque the cylinder head
bolts to 63 ft-lb (85 N•m) before adjusting the valves.
The valve clearance should be checked after the first
500 hours of engine operation.
It is very important that the valves be adjusted to the
correct specifications for satisfactory engine operation.
Insufficient valve clearance will result in compression
loss and misfiring resulting in burned valves and seats.
Excessive valve clearance will result in noisy valve
operation and abnormal wear of the valves and rocker
arms. The intake and exhaust valves are adjusted with
the valves closed.
2. The valves are adjusted to 0.016 in. (0.4 mm). When
the right gap is obtained, BE SURE to tighten the lock
while holding the adjusting screw in position.
Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)
99
Turn the engine using a wrench on the front crankshaft
bolt.
Adjusting the Valve Clearance
1. Adjustment Screw 2. Lock Nut
Valve Clearance
12
AGA148
AGA114
3. Turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front, until the
TC mark on the flywheel aligns with the pointer om the
flywheel housing.
Top Dead Center Marks
4. Wiggle the push rods on the No. 1 intake and exhaust
valves. If both rods are loose enough to turn freely, the
No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. This
is the first adjusting position.
If instead, the No. 1 push rods are tight and the No. 4
are loose, the No. 4 piston is at TDC in the compression
stroke. Turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front,
until the TC mark on the flywheel is aligned. Now both
No. 1 push rods should be loose, and No. 1 piston at
TDC of the compression stroke.
Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)
100
7. BE SURE to tighten each lock nut while holding the
adjusting screw in position.
8. Install the rocker arm cover making sure that the gasket
is in position.
5. Adjust both valves on the No. 1 cylinder, the intake
valve on the No. 2 cylinder, and the exhaust valve on
the No. 3 cylinder.
6. Turn the crankshaft one full turn, clockwise from the
front, and align the TC mark. This is TDC of the No. 4
cylinder compression stroke. Adjust the No. 2 exhaust
valve, the No. 3 intake valve, and the No. 4 intake and
exhaust valves.
Cylinder Number 1 2 3 4
Valve Arrangement E I E I E I E I
Piston in Number 1 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke. O O O OPiston in Number 4 cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke. O O O O
Valve Adjustments and Cylinder Configurations
Front Rear
Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)
101
Testing Engine Compression
Compression should be checked while the engine is near
operating temperature.
Procedure
1. Run the engine until operating temperature is reaching.
Stop engine.
2. Remove the wire from the fuel solenoid and loosen all
4 fuel lines at the injection nozzles.
CAUTION: The fuel solenoid must be discon-nected to prevent fuel from being injected intocylinder which could result in the engine start-
ing during testing operations.
The fuel lines must be loosened at the injection noz-zles during the test because temperatures and pres-sures developed if the engine should fire woulddestroy the tester. The tester manufacturer will dis-claim responsibility for damage resulting from firing.
3. Remove all the glow plugs.
4. Install a compression tester, P/N 204-439.
5. Crank the engine with a starter and observe the reading.
An engine in good condition will register 427 psi (2942
kPa) or more at cranking speed (250 rpm) using com-
pression tester 204-439. Variations between cylinders
should not exceed 10% of the compressor pressure
(Because compression space is small and gauges vary
in construction, readings will vary). The important fac-
tor in determining the engine conditions is the variation
of compression pressures and hard starting due to lack
of compression.
NOTE: If the engine cannot be run, repeat Steps 2, 3,4 and 5. Compression readings will be 10% lowerthan those of a warm engine.
Run In Procedure (Rev. 5/01)
102
BLANK PAGE
103
Parts Interchange
se 2.2
The se 2.2 engine is the same as the di 2.2 engine with the
following exceptions:
Injection Pump
Timing Gear Cover (Gear Case Cover)
Front Plate (Gear Case Cover Backing Plate)
Oil Base
Transfer Pump
Flywheel Housing
Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base
Water Pump
Thermostat Housing
Intake and Exhaust Manifolds
The following information should be used as a guideline for
interchanging these parts or the se 2.2 and di 2.2 engines
themselves. Refer to Service Bulletin T & T 096 for more
complete information.
Injection Pump
The se 2.2 injection pump and the di 2.2 injection pump
cannot be interchanged. The se 2.2 injection pump has a
three bolt mount. The di 2.2 injection pump has a two bolt
mount.
The flange that mounts the injection pump to timing gear
cover and front plate cannot be exchanged because the bolt
pattern is different. The se 2.2 flange has five bolts. The di
2.2 flange has six bolts. The timing gear cover and the front
plate are not interchangeable because of the different (five
or six bolt) pump mounting flanges.
The injection pump gear is interchangeable.
The flange that mounts the injection pump gear is not inter-
changeable because the bolt pattern has been shifted six
degrees relative to the keyway (see “Gear Mounting Flange
Identification” on page 104).
1. di 2.2 Two Bolt Mount
3. di 2.2 and se 2.2 Gear
2. di 2.2 Six Bolt Flange
4. di 2.2 Gear Mounting Flange
di 2.2 Injection Pump
1
23
4
1. se 2.2 Three Bolt Mount
3. di 2.2 and se 2.2 Gear
2. se 2.2 Five Bolt Flange
4. se 2.2 Gear Mounting Flange
se 2.2 Injection Pump
1
23
4
Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)
104
NOTE: Using the wrong gear mounting flange will causeproblems because it changes the timing by six degrees. It isdifficult to see the difference in the gear mounting flanges.Use the template to identify a gear mounting flange.
The injection pump, the pump mounting flange, the timing
gear cover, the front plate, and the gear mounting flange
must all be the same type. To switch the injection pump
from one type of engine to another would require replacing
the entire front of the engine except for the timing gears.
Gear Mounting Flange Identification
1. Place the gear mounting flange on the template with the
black painted side facing down towards the paper.
2. Line up the center hole and keyway in the flange with
the center hole and keyway drawn on the template.
3. One of the lines on the template will line up with one of
the bolt holes in the flange. This line indicates the type
of engine the flange is built for.
1. di 2.2 2. se 2.2
Gear Mounting Flange Template
1 2
Oil Base
The oil base on the se 2.2 engine is designed to be used with
a three point mounting system and cannot be used on an
engine that will be installed in a unit that has four point
mounting system.
se 2.2 Oil Base
Transfer Pump
The hand pump on the transfer pump for the se engine is
mounted horizontally to clear the front door on the SMX
unit. There is no clearance problems on Sentry, Super II, or
SB units. Therefore the di 2.2 transfer pump can be used on
the se 2.2 engines in these units. There may be some inter-
ference problems with the filter minder if an se 2.2 transfer
pump is used on an older Super II or SB unit. The hand
pump can be moved to a vertical position on the se 2.2
transfer pump by removing the adapter P/N 11-7413 and
mounting the hand pump vertically. Exchanging transfer
pumps between se 2.2 and di 2.2 engines may also require
exchanging or transferring banjo bolts, plugs, etc.
Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)
105
Flywheel Housing
The se. 2.2 flywheel housing can be used on di 2.2 engines.
The di 2.2 flywheel housing can be used on se 2.2 engines
with the following exceptions: SMX 50 units, Super II units
built after June of 1992, and Sentry II 50 units built after
September of 1993.
se 2.2 Flywheel Housing
1. Remove to Install Hand Pump Vertically
se 2.2 Transfer Pump
1
Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base
The se 2.2 engines uses a two stage oil filter that combines a
full flow and a bypass filter. The base and the filter can be
switched as an assembly. Either assembly will fit on either
engine, but the dual element filter will not fit on the full
flow filter base and the full flow filter will not fit on the dual
element filter base.
1. Oil Filter Base 11-5856
2. Dual Oil Filter 11-3712
di 2.2 Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base
1
2
Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)
106
1. Oil Filter Base 11-2689
2. Dual Oil Filter 11-3712
se 2.2 Oil Filter and Oil Filter Base
1
2
Crankcase Breather
The se 2.2 crankcase breather can be used on a di 2.2 engine
if it is installed as a complete assembly. Adapter P/N 11-
7389 must be installed and drain back fitting P/N 11-5572
must be installed in an available post in the oil base. The di
2.2 crankcase breather can be used on the se 2.2 engine if
the drain back port in the oil base is plugged.
1. Adapter 11-7389
2. Drain Back Fitting 11-5572
se 2.2 Crankcase Breather
1
2
Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)
107
Thermostat Housing
The accumulator water return port has been removed from
from the thermostat housing for the se 2.2 engine. The se
2.2 thermostat housing can be used on di 2.2 engines if the
accumulator hoses are rerouted. The di 2.2 thermostat hous-
ing can be used on se 2.2 engines except in SMX units.
Water Pump
The outlet on the water pump for the se 2.2 engine has been
shortened by an inch and the accumulator water hose port
has been removed. Units with se 2.2 engines supply water to
the accumulator from a port on the rear of the engine head.
The se 2.2 water pump can be used on di 2.2 engines if the
accumulator water lines are rearranged to the current con-
figuration. The di 2.2 water pump can be used on se 2.2
engines except in SMX units.
1. No Ports
se 2.2 Thermostat Housing
1. No Port
se 2.2 Water Pump
1
1
Intake and Exhaust Manifolds
The se 2.2 intake and exhaust manifolds have been rede-
signed to reduce the engine width for the SMX unit.
The se 2.2 intake manifolds can be used on di 2.2 engines.
The di 2.2 intake manifolds cannot be used on the se 2.2
engine because the manifold hots the injection pump.
The exhaust manifolds are interchangeable between the two
engines but they are not easily interchanged between units
designed for the other engine because of the exhaust con-
nections.
1. Intake 2. Exhaust
se 2.2 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds
1
2
Parts Interchange (Rev. 5/01)
108
Engine Type
Serial Number
Narrow Sump
3 Point Mount
Fine Mesh
Timing Gears
Injection Timing
Domed Timing
Cover & Damper Pulley Boss
8 Pin Flywheel
Radial Rear Main Seal
Axial Rear Main Seal
di 2.2 900074 14° X
se 2.2 992987 X 14° X
se 2.2 198650* X 14° X
se 2.2 221207 X X 14° X X
se 2.2 391775 X X 14° X X X
se 2.2 E00001 X X 6° X X X
*after engine serial number 999999 the numbers start over beginning with 100000
Engine Chart