CHAPTER – I 1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 INDUSTRY PROFILE The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles. The textile industry occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come into existence in India, it accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production, contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and the holds importance; maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life. It has a unique position as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of finished products, with substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; it is a major contribution to the country’s economy. Its vast potential for creation of employment opportunities in the agricultural, industrial, organized and decentralized sectors & rural and urban areas, particularly for women and the disadvantaged is noteworthy. Although the development of textile sector was earlier taking place in terms of general policies, in recognition of the importance of this sector. 1
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CHAPTER – I
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 INDUSTRY PROFILE
The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the
design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles. The
textile industry occupies a unique place in our country. One of the earliest to come
into existence in India, it accounts for 14% of the total Industrial production,
contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment
generator after agriculture.
Textile Industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and the
holds importance; maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life. It has a
unique position as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the
delivery of finished products, with substantial value-addition at each stage of
processing; it is a major contribution to the country’s economy. Its vast potential for
creation of employment opportunities in the agricultural, industrial, organized and
decentralized sectors & rural and urban areas, particularly for women and the
disadvantaged is noteworthy. Although the development of textile sector was earlier
taking place in terms of general policies, in recognition of the importance of this
sector.
Prior to the manufacturing processes being mechanized, textiles were
produced in the home, and excess sold for extra money. Most cloth was made from
either wool, cotton, or flax, depending on the era and location. For example, during
the late medieval period, cotton became known as an imported fiber in northern
Europe, without any knowledge of what it came from other than that it was a plant;
noting its similarities to wool, people in the region could only imagine that cotton
must be produced by plant-borne sheep. John Mandeville, writing in 1350, stated as
fact the now-preposterous belief: “There grew there [India] a wonderful tree which
bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they
bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they are hungry.” This aspect is retained
in the name for cotton in many European languages, such as German Baumwolle,
which translates as “tree wool”. By the end of the 16 th century, cotton was cultivated
throughout the warmer regions in Asia and the Americas. In Roman times, wool, linen
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and leather clothed the European population: the cotton of India was a curiosity that
only naturalists had heard of, and silk, imported along the Silk Road from China, was
an extravagant luxury. The use of flax fibre in the manufacturing of cloth in northern
Europe dates back to Neolithic times.
Cloth was produced in the home, and the excess woven cloth was sold to
merchants called clothiers who visited the village with their trains of pack-horses.
Some of the cloth was made into clothes for people living in the same area and a large
amount of cloth was exported.
The process of making cloth depends slightly on the fiber being used, but there
are three main steps: preparation of fibers for spinning, spinning, and weaving or
knitting. The preparation of the fibers differs the most depending on the fiber used.
Flax requires retting and dressing, while wool requires carding and washing. The
spinning and weaving processes are very similar between fibers though.
Spinning evolved from twisting the fibers by hand, to use of a drop spindle, to
a spinning wheel. Spindles or parts of them have been found in very, very old
archaeological sites; they may represent one of the earliest pieces of technology
available to humankind was invented in India between 500 and 1000 AD. It reached
Europe via the Middle East in the European Middle Ages.
Weaving, done on a loom has been around for as long as spinning. There are
some indications that weaving was already known in the Paleolithic. An indistinct
textile impression has been found at Pavlov, Moravia. Neolithic textiles are well
known from finds in pile dwellings in Switzerland. One extant fragment from the
Neolithic was found in Fayum at a site which dates to about 5000 BCE. There are
many different types of looms, from a simple loom that dates back to the Vikings, to
the standard floor loom.
DEVELOPMENT OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Early fabrics are produced by the simple weaving procedures which are
striking beauty and designs; the range of patterns of colors is wide, with patterns
produced in different parts of world showing distinctive local features.
Yarns and cloth were dyed & printed from very early time. Specimens of
dyed fabrics have been found in roman regions of the 2nd century. There is evidence of
production of printed textiles in India during the 4th century B.C.
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The first knitting machine was installed in the year 1893 in oriented Hosiery
Ltd, founded by late AnadraPrasad Mukherjee, who was called as father of hosiery in
India. The present hosiery industries are located in Kolkata, Tirupur, Mumbai, and
Kanpur. Though the hosiery industries in India are 100 years old it’s really started
picking up since after Independence.
INDUSTRY STRUCTURE
The textile industry is vertically-integrated across the value chain and extends
from fibre to fabric to garments. At the same time, it is a highly-fragmented sector,
and comprises small-scale, non-integrated spinning, weaving, processing and cloth
manufacturing enterprises.
The textile sector has always been an important part of people’s lives in India.
Much before industrialization, hand weavers and handloom workers contributed to the
growth of the industry. The government framed policies during 1950-1970 for the
development of SSIs in the sector; as a result, the power loom and handloom sectors,
mainly small and medium scale enterprises, were decentralised.
TEXTILE SECTOR REMAINS HIGHLY-FRAGMENTED
The textile segment is highly fragmented and many large textile companies are
also conglomerates of medium-sized mills. According to the statistics released by the
Ministry of Textiles, the entire textile industry is highly fragmented except the
spinning sub-segment. The organised sector contributes more than 95% of spinning,
but hardly 5% of weaving fabric. SSIs perform the bulk of weaving and processing
operations. The unorganised sector forms the bulk of the industry, comprising
handlooms, powerlooms, hosiery and knitting, and also readymade garments, khadi
and carpet manufacturing units. The organised mill sector consists of spinning mills
involved only in spinning activities and composite mills where spinning, weaving and
processing activities are carried out under a single roof. These organised units are
mostly independent and small scale in nature unlike the composite units that
undertake all activities together.
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The textile industry of India operates largely in the form of clusters - mostly
natural clusters - with roughly 70 textile clusters producing 80% of the country’s total
textiles. Based on a UNIDO study conducted on SME clusters in India, some of the
key textile clusters in India are:
Panipat, accounts for 75% of the total blankets produced in the country
Tirupur, responsible for 80% of the country’s hosiery exports
Ludhiana, accounts for 95% of India’s woolen knitwear produced.
As on January 2009, there were 1,828 mills in the organised sector in India. Of
these, 177 mills were composite mills and 1,651 mills were spinning mills. The cloth
production in the organised mills sector has increased from 1,496 mn sq mtrs in 2002-
03 to a projected 1,796 mn sq mtrs in 2008-09 (P). Despite the increase in the
production, the organised sector contributes merely 3% to the total fabric production
of the country. The remaining 97% of the fabric is produced in the unorganised sector.
The competitiveness of composite mills has declined in comparison to
powerlooms in the decentralised segment. Policy restrictions relating to labour laws
and the fiscal advantages enjoyed by unorganised sectors are two of the major
constraints that are responsible for the decline. The number of composite mills in
India decreased from 285 in 1999-00 to 177 in January 2009.
The powerloom segment is the largest manufacturer of fabric in the
unorganised sector. The segment produces a wide variety of grey and processed cloth.
According to the Ministry of Textiles, as on December 31, 2008, India had nearly 2.2
mn powerlooms that were distributed across 482,000 units.
INDIAN ADVANTAGE IN RAW MATERIAL
The Indian economy has primarily been an agriculture-driven economy. The
vast stretches of land, resources and climatic conditions aid the production of varied
raw materials for different industrial purposes. Historically, India has been known for
its high-quality cotton, jute and other natural fibre. Over the years, however, the
domestic industry has progressed and diversified into many types of fibre and yarn,
both natural and man-made. The textile industry in India includes almost all types of
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textile fibres – natural fibres such as cotton, jute, silk and wool; synthetic / man-made
fibres such as polyester, viscose, nylon, acrylic and polypropylene (PP) and multiple
blends of such fibres and filament yarns such as partiallyoriented yarn (POY). The
type of yarn used is dictated by the end product that is manufactured.
The man-made textile industry comprises fibre and filament yarn
manufacturing units of cellulosic and non-cellulosic origin. The cellulosic fibre/yarn
industry is under the administrative control of the Ministry of Textiles, while the
noncellulosic industry is under the administrative control of the Ministry of
Chemicals and Fertilisers.
As seen, the abundant availability of raw material is one of the important
advantages of the Indian textile industry. It is well-established that India possesses a
natural advantage in terms of raw material availability. India is the largest producer of
jute, the second-largest producer of cotton and silk and among the largest producers of
wool across the world.
COTTON STAGE
Prior to the manufacturing processes being mechanized, textiles were
produced in the home, and excess sold for extra money. Most cloth was made from
either wool, cotton, or flax, depending on the era and location. For example, during
the late medieval period, cotton became known as an imported fiber in
northern Europe, without any knowledge of what it came from other than that it was
a plant; noting its similarities to wool, people in the region could only imagine that
cotton must be produced by plant-borne sheep. John Mandeville, writing in 1350,
stated as fact the now-preposterous belief: "There grew there [India] a wonderful tree
which bore tiny lambs on the endes of its branches. These branches were so pliable
that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they are hungry." This aspect is
retained in the name for cotton in many European languages, such
as German Baumwolle, which translates as "tree wool". By the end of the 16th
century, cotton was cultivated throughout the warmer regions in Asia and
the Americas. In Roman times, wool, linen and leather clothed the European
population: the cotton of India was a curiosity that only naturalists had heard of, and
silk, imported along the Silk Road from China, was an extravagant luxury.