Gilbert & Gaillard Wine International n°2

Contents

CONTENTS

COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL SEPTEMBER 2010 3

11-12PARIS LIFE

13-14LONDON LIFE

15TOKYO LIFE

16SHANGHAI LIFE

18-22NEWS

40-41STARS AND WINE

• Julia Roberts:

wine lover and gourmet

• George Clooney:

a gentleman and epicurean

46-51WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

• Lidewij van Wilgen ofMas des Dames: Dutch Angles

• Chantal Brégeon-Gonet of Champagne Philippe Gonet: Gone to Earth

• Coralie Goumarre of DomaineGalévan: Spirit of Wine

52-53ORGANIC NEWS

Sulfites and organic wine

70-71NEW YORK LIFE

Harlem’s wine renaissance

72-73EXPORT

The United States:a growing market for wine

74-79FAMILY BUSINESS

• Château Figeac:a hard act to follow

• Jacques Beaujeau - Château la Varière and Domaine de la Perruche: from generation to generation

• Louis-Fabrice Latour: keeping it in the family

82-83WINE QUOTATIONS

Rhône wines- a class of their own

84-85TRAVEL

A visit to Cognac country

GILBERT & GAILLARD

WINE INTERNATIONAL

SUBSCRIPTIONS2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 €

SEE ON PAGE 35

WINE INTERNATIONAL

NEXT ISSUE OUT

DECEMBER 2010

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COVER: SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE REGENT HOTEL BORDEAUX

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4 GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL SEPTEMBER 2010

CONTENTS

ContentsREPORTS

25-39GOLD CLUB

Rated wines 90/100 and more

42-45HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

• Provence: 2,600 years of winemaking

• Provence rosés come of age

54-69QUALITY FACTORS

• Catalonia: a Spanish giant• California, Oregon, Washington

USA does terroir!

80-81WINE AND FOOD

• Alain Passard: putting emotion into cooking

• Recipe: Onion Gratin with Parmigiano Reggiano

86-109REGION

• LOIRE- Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray- Coteaux du Cher

• ITALYPiedmont, Tuscany and Veneto

• HIGHLANDSMalt whiskies and the Scottish art of living

110-113GOLD CLUB

FOCUS ON 2009 BORDEAUX

PLEASE GIVE US YOURFEEDBACK

[email protected]

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FRANÇOIS GILBERT


Bordeaux has once again delivered an exceptional

vintage, aided by a virtually perfect growing season and

excellent weather. The grapes bursting with promise that

were pressed and put into casks just a year ago confirmed

all the predicted hype. Certain aspects are already sending

oenologists into paroxysms of joy, such as the grapes’

ideal ripeness and high polyphenol concentration - the

classic template for fine vintage wines that will age well.

However, every rose has its thorn, and in this case it is

cost. The prices are in line with the high quality,

with increases of 20-30% compared to 2005, a year in

which prices already broke all records. Since then,

a new phenomenon has appeared. The market for

Bordeaux en primeur (new wines sold while still in the

barrel), which up to now has been essentially Western,

may well be swinging to the East, particularly towards a

China in continual transformation, where the

demand for fine wines is rocketing. Of the many

examples of this trend, this one stands out: the wives of

members of the Chinese elite have reinvented the

traditional Tupperware® party, replacing the famous

plastic containers with bottles of Bordeaux grands crus

classés. For these buyers, the sky-high prices are trivial,

and orders worth 50,000 or 60,000 euros are not

uncommon. This should maintain the future market for

the top en primeur wines, as China seems set to remain

economically strong; in any case, stronger than Old

Europe, which is still paralysed by the crisis.

François GilbertEditorial director

www.gilbertgaillard.com

An Eastern wind

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PHILIPPE GAILLARD


Organic wines have a long history (technically

speaking, the term refers to organically-grown grapes),

but the last two decades have seen a rise in this

production method, following more than 40 years of

industrial agriculture that has increasingly come

under criticism. Winegrowers, it can be hoped,

choose organic or biodynamic methods by conviction.

They are required to submit their production methods

and wines to inspection to prove that they have

respected the relevant regulations. In France,

the organisations that oversee organic and sustainably

produced wines include Ecocert, Demeter (the oldest

label, registered in 1932) and Nature & Progrès.

But who monitors the regulators? How can we be sure

of their qualifications and independence?

How do they carry out their tests and how often?

Where do these organisations get their funding?

Are they connected with the government?

Are organic wines produced the same way in France,

Canada and Australia?

All these questions and more will be explored in an

upcoming detailed report in our ‘Organic news’ section,

in which we will review the current reality of organic

wines.

Philippe GaillardEditorial director


Shining thespotlight onorganic wine

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SYLVAIN PATARDSYLVAIN PATARD


Wine consumption in the United States

has been steadily increasing since 1991. In 2005,

Americans drank more than 23 million hectolitres of

wine (as estimated by the US-based Wine Institute),

making the United States the third largest wine consumer

in the world (following France and Italy). If this trend

continues, it will be the world leader in two years.

Several factors have contributed to this increase in

wine-drinking. First, the image of wine in the eyes of

consumers, the media, and even the government,

is more positive than it has been for many years.

In addition, the Supreme Court decided in May 2005

that wine producers could sell directly to consumers

in all American states. This decision has not only

benefited American wineries, it has also favourably

influenced public opinion and helped to develop the

wine knowledge of potential consumers.

But the main determining factor is no doubt the

demographic trend, which has led to a natural increase

in the American wine market. The adult population

(age 21-65) has grown by 15 million people since

the year 2000, including the ‘Echo Boomers’,

or Generation Y. As opposed to France,

where the younger generation drinks little wine,

young American adults (born between 1970 and 1990),

are increasingly choosing wine as part of their lifestyle.

This is a real opportunity for French and other European

wines, whose domestic markets are in decline.

.

Sylvain PatardEditor in chief

RediscoveringAmerica

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PARIS LIFE


Tucked in a small side street between the

Paris Stock Exchange and rue Montmartre,

“Granny Paulette's” is a hidden gem. The

owner, Laurent Savary, is a wine lover with

a genuine personality who knows how to

give an authentic welcome. He seeks out

small winemakers as well as more classic

vintages from overlooked years to offer a

large choice of wines, some of which do

not appear on the wine list - a visit to the

wine cellar is necessary to choose the best

match for your meal. The cellar itself

constantly evolves depending on the season

and on the owner's latest discoveries. Before

you begin searching for the perfect bottle,

we recommend starting with an aperitif

of Philipponnat's Cuvée Non Dosée

champagne, which will allow you to

also a 2008 Vacqueyras from Jérôme

Benoit's Mas des Flauzières: a delightful

nose and bold palate with a perfect

balance of grape varieties (26 euros). A

favourite from Corsica, Patrimonio

d’Anette Leccia 2005 (28 euros), provides

a taste of terroir with its characteristic

Nielluccio grape variety. Suzzoni's white

Clos Culombu is another fine Corsican

wine that is sometimes unjustly overlooked

(25 euros). We mustn't leave out the

region of Alsace: Claude and Sandrine

Weinzorn's Domaine de l'Oriel 2004

Grand Cru Sommerberg is a magnificent

expression of Reisling terroir (30 euros).

Or perhaps you prefer taking a trip to

DOWN-TO-EARTH WINE BISTRO

Mémère Paulette3, rue Paul Lelong75002 ParisOwner: Laurent SavaryTel. +33 (0)1 40 26 12 36Open: Monday-Friday 12 - 2.30 pm and 8 pm - 10 pm

Christine’s Wine Lists

discover this excellent house through a

surprising and little-known vintage that

has existed for only two years.

For a wine to accompany your meal, you

are spoiled for choice. One option is a white

Coteaux du Languedoc - Rosmarinus 2007

from Domaine Calage Resseguier (25 euros),

with its initial sensation of fruit of rare

quality, perfectly balanced with oak. Or a

1983 Margaux from Château Cantenac

Brown that delivers a mouth-filling,

powerful attack for only 50 euros.

Another option is a classic that we never

tire of, Pascal Lambert's Cuvée Marie 2007

(30 euros): an excellent Chinon that has

surprised many in blind tastings. There is

Two unique establishments with totally contrasting sty-les nestled in two typically Parisian streets. Take yourpick from a colourful, down-to-earth wine bistro or anelegant champagne and cocktail bar: excellent examplesof the wealth of choice that Paris offers.

Christ ine Fabre

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appellations, Arbois (2007 Traminer fromDomaine Tissot). Minor digression: wecame to appreciate Arbois wines severalyears ago during a late evening at theVinisud wine fair, thanks to an enthusiasticrestaurateur who offered us a glass of1990 Domaine Rolet Père & Fils… happymemories!Point Bulles also offers several red winesfrom the Champagne region, such as theamazing 2008 Ambonnay and a very niceSaumur Champigny from ThierryGermain. Aside from the excellent choiceof wines offered, we particularlyappreciate that many of them can beordered by the glass, making this a placewhere one can enjoy quality in thequantity that suits the mood and occasion.Don't forget to finish your visit to PointBulles with an excellent 2008 vintageComté cheese, accompanied by a glass of2005 or 2002 vintage Philippe GonetChampagne. Visit the website to find outthe programme for tasting eveningsorganised with the winemakers.


PARIS LIFE

Christine’s Wine Lists

clams with coriander, fried anchovies,razor shell clams with tarragon, or moretraditional dishes such as Iberico curedham and a delicious sea bream tartarewith dill and chives. The cuisine, based onfresh products with hints of spices andaromatic herbs, is simple but innovative.There are also original cocktails, based, ofcourse, on Champagne! The Philomène isa subtle blend of Philippe Gonet Réservechampagne and candied hibiscus flower.L’Arsène, with Grand Marnier, PhilippeGonet Réserve Champagne, yuzu(Japanese citrus) and lemon confit, hasstriking but well-balanced citrus notes. Ordare to discover the Jeanne, a mixture ofmelon liqueur, Philippe Gonet RéserveChampagne, sea salt and Indonesian longpepper!The wine list offers classics such asGuigal, Mellot and Pascal Jolivet, aswell as excellent lesser-known appellations

that are often hard to find in Paris, suchas Montlouis (2008 Domaine de laTaille aux Loups) or one of our favourite

This brand new Champagne bar givespride of place to winemakers from theChampagne region. The wine list offers agood selection of Philippe GonetChampagnes and a large choice of bubblyby the glass, the bottle or, if you prefer, bythe magnum!The chef has created a menu with aMediterranean influence, complete withsharable starters that will remind you ofsummer holidays, including wedge shell

ELEGANT CHAMPAGNE AND

COCKTAIL BAR

Point Bulles7, rue Clément75006 ParisTel. +33 (0)1 46 33 00 47www.pointbulles.com Owners: Chantal Brégeon-Gonet,Karim Haïdar (Chef) and Daniele DerossiOpen: Everyday from noon tomidnight

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Burgundy with a rare white 2007 Côte de

Beaune from Domaine Newman (24 euros),

quite simply a success! Finally, a 1995

Cahors from Jean-Luc Baldès, a winemaker

that has won this appellation many

admirers: Prince Probus, a wine with soft

tannins and an intense flavour of dark

fruit (40 euros).

Mémère Paulette serves traditional and

tasty bistro cuisine made with quality

products such as Morteau sausages, an

excellent sauerkraut, savoury kidneys, not

to forget the homemade starters. Come

here for an unforgettable Paris evening

with friends who appreciate a good bottle

of wine!

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Following the success of his eponymous

restaurant ‘Daniel’ in New York, Daniel

Boulud recently took up residence in

Knightsbridge’s Mandarin Oriental hotel.

Bar Boulud is a more relaxed venue than

his three star Michelin restaurant in the

Big Apple, but the plush surroundings

leave you in no doubt that this a place to

see and be seen.

The buzz surrounding Bar Boulud’s

opening appears to be wholly justified.

The bistro-style menu is far better value

than I would have imagined, with superb

LONDON LIFE


Mark’s favourite venues

charcuterie (under the guidance of

Parisian Gilles Verot) and some excellent

burgers. An extensive wine list reveals the

guiding hand of a passionate sommelier.

The focus is French and in particular

Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, the two

regions closest to Daniel Boulud’s

(Lyonnais) heart, but many other regions

are well represented. As a big fan of Jean-

François Coche-Dury, I couldn’t resist

his appellation-defying 2004 Bourgogne

Blanc (£63), a rich and smooth

Chardonnay with layers of white flowers,

citrus and cream. Bar Boulud is a class

act and, perhaps, the most exciting

new opening in London this year.

“DANIELS” IN LONDON

Bar BouludMandarin Oriental Hotel66, KnightsbridgeLondon SW1 X 7LATel. +44 (0)207 201 3899www.barboulud.com

Mark Andrew

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The term “wine bar’” bring with it images of 1980s London,complete with Yuppies, perms and lots of Chardonnay.Thankfully the perms are no more and the Yuppies havelong since entered respectable middle-age; but there iscertainly some Chardonnay to be found at London’s newgeneration of wine bars, alongside plenty of other interestingvino and some fabulous food.

Bar Boulod

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LONDON LIFE

WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

Terroirs5, William IV Street London WC2N 4DWTel. +44 (0)207 036 0660www.terroirswinebar.com

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Paris is renowned for its wine bar scene

and the recent trend for venues specialising

in “natural wines” was perhaps the inspiration

behind Terroirs, a simple but elegantly

styled bar tucked away behind Trafalgar

Square. Owner Eric Narioo is better

known as the man behind Les Caves de

Pyrène, an eclectic wine importer that

loves to stray off the beaten track and

features many natural wines on its list.

No surprise then, to see many of their best

selections make an appearance on the

(largely French) list at Terroirs.

It was a warm evening and, in the mood

for a lighter style of red, I was tempted by

Houillon’s Pupillin Rouge from the Jura

(£42.50) and the clutch of top Beaujolais

they feature from messieurs Foillard,

Matras and Lapierre. In the end I opted for

Marcel Lapierre’s Vin de Table ‘Les Gallois’

(£25.50), a deliciously juicy Gamay full of

crisp berry fruit and perfect acidity to

match the excellent (and reasonably priced)

charcuterie board and gambas à la plancha.

London’s wine bar renaissance continues

in the Square Mile, where 28-50 brings a

relaxed atmosphere and stellar wine list to

London’s financial district. Bocca di Lupo

and Dehesa offer Italian and Spanish

variations on the theme in the West End,

while the charming Negozio Classica is a

vinous haven for visitors to Portobello.

28-50 WINE WORKSHOP & KITCHEN

140, Fetter Lane

London EC4A 1BT

Tel. +44 (0)207 242 8877

www.2850.co.uk

Bocca di Lupo12, Archer Street

London W1D 7BB

Tel. +44 (0)207 734 2223

www.boccadilupo.com

28-50

28-50

Terroi rs

Mark’s favourite venues

Dehesa Charcuterie & Tapas Bar

25, Ganton Street, London W1F 9BP

Tel. +44 (0)207 494 4170

www.dehesa.co.uk

Negozio Classica283, Westbourne Grove

London W11 2QA

Tel. +44 (0)207 034 0005

www.negozioclassica.co.uk

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TOKYO LIFE


Greetings! Or as we say in Japan,

"Hajime-mashite” (pleased to meet you)!

My name is Walid Haddad, I am a French-

Lebanese national and Japan has been

my home since 1991. The most exciting

part of living in a megapolis like Tokyo is

that there are always new stories to tell,

new places to discover and interesting

people to meet.

Walid's trendy places

IN GINZA DISTRICT

VinpicoeurGinzaya Saketen Bldg 2F 4-3-4Ginza Chuo Ku TokyoTel. + 81 (0)3 3567 4122

SPANISH ATMOSPHERE

Vinuls2-5-17 Ginza Chuo Ku TokyoTel. +81 (0)3 3567 4128

Summer is here, and what better way toenjoy it than with grilled or barbecueddishes? I followed a tip from a local andtried Vinpicoeur, located on the ChampsElysées of Tokyo’s Ginza district. I wasgreeted by the delicious aroma of a wholepig being slowly grilled: a feast for theeye and the palate. From a list of 60wines, I chose a bottle of Carron laGrande Coline 2009 that was served atthe ideal temperature.

The World Cup has been won by Spain: a

perfect excuse to check out Spanish tapas,

Japan-style, at Vinuls. A truly Spanish

atmosphere reigns within the walls of this

bodega. I ordered a red B. Agapito Rico 2009

Carchello along with callos a la Catalana

and chorizo extra: truly Spanish taste, in the

middle of Tokyo. “VivaVinuls!”

Walid Haddad

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PARISIAN BISTRO OR

WINE MUSEUM?

Aux Amis des Vins

PV Bldg 1F

2-5-6 Ginza Chuo Ku Tokyo

Tel. +81 (0)3 3567 4120

museum. I chose the crêpes aux truffles

d'été, and the sommelier paired it with a

bottle of Mark Kreydenweiss - Andlau

Riesling 2007. A perfect match!

Wanting to explore more of Ginza on my

own I stumbled upon Aux Amis des Vins.

From outside it looks like a typical Parisian

bistro; the interior resembles a wine

Vinpicoeur

Aux Amis des Vins

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Shanghai: city of opportunitiesDid you know that the Chinese were already drinking wine 9,000 years ago?In fact , wine was made in China thousands of years before the first winemakersappeared in what is now France. Wine’s popularity has fluctuated throughout Chinesehistory, moving from an elite reputation to near invisibility and back. During the TangDynasty (618–907 CE), the emperor himself cultivated grapes in the Imperial Palace,offering his wines to his faithful nobles. But the current mania for wine that is sweepingChina is mainly due to the European influence in high-society circles that started at thebeginning of the 20th century, and the country’s recent trend towards Westernization.


SHANGHAI LIFE

Today, wine is increasingly dethroning

baijiu (a traditional alcohol made from

rice) among the inhabitants of Shanghai,

the Chinese economic capital. Probably

the most Westernized city in continental

China, modern Shanghai is now home to

a wide range of European-style wine bars,

restaurants and hotels offering thousands

counted more than 30 bars dedicated to

wine, most of them in the Bund (formerly

the British district), the Jing’an district and

the area of the old French Concession.

Some of the most well known include The

House of Roosevelt (which has more than

2,500 wines), Dr Wine, Epicure and the

Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen.

of types of wine from both the Old and

New World.

Expatriates and middle-to-upper-class

Chinese alike enjoy quaffing a glass in the

city’s numerous wine bars. To satisfy this

new popularity, many restaurants and

hotels are expanding their wine lists. We

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By Thomas Magnani

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SHANGHAI LIFE


But drinking Bordeaux or Rioja in the FarEast comes at a price: a glass is between15% and 100% more expensive than inthe wine’s country of origin. Yetapparently the expense is not curbing theappetite for imported wine, at least notwhen people are drinking out. Some 65%of the wine in Shanghai is sold incafés/bars, hotels or restaurants - of this,85% is foreign wine. In contrast, 90% ofthe wine sold in supermarkets is Chinese.

For many Chinese businesspeople, drinkingwine is a reflection of high social statusand success in business. These drinkersprefer very expensive, prestigiousBordeaux wines. This does not alwaysindicate a sophisticated palate, as tastingand appreciating fine wines is a longlearning process. Thus, you sometimesencounter unexpected cocktails such asshots of 1983 Château Lafite Rothschildmixed with the mint liqueur Get 27. Sowine culture is on the rise in Shanghai,but may need some time to fully mature.

To help wine lovers find their way aroundShanghai, we visited two of our favouriteplaces where you can enjoy a glass of wineand take in the diversity to be found inthis amazing city. They each have differentstyles and atmospheres and haveaccommodated wine culture to localtastes in their own unique way. Wewould like to thank the bar staff fortheir welcome and for taking the time toshare their passion for the growing wineculture in Shanghai. We hope this willgive you a taste of and for the city!

BETWEEN THE MARRIOTT AND THE

CENTRAL PLAZA HOTELS

Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen57, Jiangyin RoadTel. +86 (0)21 6318 0057

Although this wine bar is not the easiestto find, it would be a shame to miss it.Close to the bustling crowds of People’sSquare, the Napa Wine Bar, located at theend of an alley between the Marriott andthe Central Plaza hotels, provides acomfortable place to enjoy a glass of winein peace. The bar is in a historic house thatwas built in 1903 and fully renovated threeyears ago for the establishment’s opening.It is a perfect place for businesspeople toarrange meetings or relax after work.

The wine list is composed of 600 wines,with around 70% from the Old World(almost all of them French) and, as thebar’s name indicates, a good selection ofCalifornian wines. The venue is justlyproud to have won two awards for thequality of its wines from the US magazineWine Spectator.

In an original twist, the wine bar has deviseda tasting session that allows you to identifythe style of wine you prefer, which theycall your WineSign. For 260 yuan, you canattend a blind-tasting to identify yourwine profile, which will help you selectfrom their wine list, classified accordingto WineSigns. A tasting of six differentwines is also available for between200 and 350 yuan, or if you’re pressed fortime, 30 different wines are available bythe glass. Whether for a short visit or anentire evening, you are sure to find a warmwelcome at the Napa Wine Bar, one ofShanghai’s top wine spots.

A CHOICE OF 2,500 WINES

The House of Roosevelt27, Zhong Shan Dong Yi RoadTel. +86 (0)21 2322 0800

If Shanghai is the city of extremes, TheHouse of Roosevelt couldn’t be a betterexample. In terms of sheer numbers, thisimpressive new establishment offers achoice of 2,500 wines (soon to be 2,800),the biggest wine list in Shanghai. Butdon’t worry, you don’t have to make yourselection from an impersonal list the sizeof a dictionary. Here, you stroll through amassive wine cellar with shelves organisedby country to decide on a wine; you just pickthe bottle that you want to drink. This hands-on approach gives you a good overview ofthe 30,000 bottles in the wine cellar.

With such a wide choice, you are sure tofind your pleasure. Driven by Chinesedemand, a major section is devoted toFrance: around 45% of the cellar’s bottlesare French wines, and half of these areBordeaux. Around one-third consists ofNew World wines, particularly fromAustralia. There is also a selection ofChinese wines.

For those who prefer to taste differentwines by the glass, a set menu is availablethat includes three different winesaccompanied by three different plates(including very good duck liver) for98 yuan.

Finally, saving the best for last, The Houseof Roosevelt, formerly the headquarters ofa British trading firm and the ShanghaiForeign Trade Commission, has one ofthe best views in Shanghai. Take a trip upto the 9th floor to enjoy your wine as yougaze over the river to Pudong andShanghai’s emblematic Pearl Tower.

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Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen

Napa Wine Bar & Kitchen

The House of Roosevelt

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NEWS

This holiday season, Maker's Mark isoffering a tasteful gift box created by thebox-maker Florence Faugier that will seeout the year in style! The leather box,designed in the spirit of an antique traveltrunk, holds a Maker's Mark Bourbonbottle, a pewter tumbler and a recipe forMint Juleps. Made from top-quality blackleather and hemp, the box makes a stylishand practical gift that can be reused.Maker’s Mark, the original premiumBourbon from Kentucky, has founded itsreputation on quality, producing itsBourbon in limited quantities usingmethods that require considerable humanintervention. The Bourbon distillery choseto work with Florence Faugier becauseboth share a passion for craftsmanship,

EXCLUSIVE CHRISTMAS CREATION

authenticity, detail and quality. The pewtertumbler not only keeps the cocktail cooland helps to bring out the Bourbon’sflavour, it also has a history intimately linkedto that of Maker’s Mark. The brand’s nameitself was inspired by the matriarch of theSamuels family, who collected pewterobjects by looking for “the mark of themaker” that indicated the finest pieces. Theconcept seemed appropriate for the imagede Maker’s Mark, the oldest Bourbondistillery still in operation in the UnitedStates.

The box will be available for 60 eurosfrom Lavinia from 15 November 2010. For more information: www.makersmark.com

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

To mark 150 years of winemaking, the Ayala Champagne house has created a Blanc de Blancs (“white fromwhite”) from its 2004 grape harvest, made from 100% Chardonnay grapes solely from three grand cru areas:Le Mesnil sur Oger, Cramant and Chouilly (one-third each). The month of August in 2004 was very rainy andcool, which led to fears about the harvest’s maturity. Fortunately, it was followed by a magnificent and sunnySeptember, leading to a record harvest in the region (14,000 kilograms per hectare) and perfect-quality grapeswith an average alcohol content of 9.7%. The wine then spent five years aging in a cellar to give it complexity,power and roundness. With a dosage of 7 grams of sugar per litre, the resulting Champagne retains a welcomevigour that is not excessive. This 2004 Blanc de Blancs is the perfect Champagne for an aperitif or toaccompany scallop dishes.Retail price 40 euros - For more information: www.champagne-ayala.com

THE ESSENTIAL COMPANION

FOR CHAMPAGNE

Filled with your choice of cold water orice, this Champagne bucket will keepyour bottle of Charles Heidsieck chilled tothe perfect temperature. This makes ituseful. But it was also made to beattractive. The wide-mouthed shapefulfils both requirements: its elegantcurved sides allow the Champagne toundergo controlled oxidation, ideal forreleasing its complex bouquet. The flarededges help to keep the bottle in placewithout slipping. The handle designensures a good grip when the bucket isfull. Two different gift box versions areavailable: Access and High Life. Theformer contains a Champagne bucketand a bottle of Charles Heidsieck BrutRéserve. The latter adds a special touchof French chic, with a bucket encasedin water buffalo leather, a perfectmatch of elegance and practicality.

Access: 75 euros; High Life: 275 euros. Available at selected wine sellers in France or online at www.charlesheidsieck.com

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NEWS


BACK TO THE FUTURE?

What if the future of winegrowing, andparticularly Champagne, was in thepast? The question is not as crazy as itsounds for Champagne De Sousa… andwe have to agree after observing the tra-ditional methods they use - and tastingthe quality of the results they produce!For some time now, part of Erick DeSousa’s vineyards have been ploughedby horses. Using animals to till is inline with the family’s wish to fullyconserve the character of theChampagne appellation, including itsenvironment. Their approach is notonly about limiting air and noisepollution: using horses also avoidsover-compression and impoverishmentof the soil, limits the need for coverplanting, and promotes mycorrhizalfungi*, thus establishing a healthyinteraction between the presence of theanimal and the rich soil that producessuch excellent Champagnes. This“innovation”, in fact a return to proventechniques, is part and parcel of ErickDe Sousa’s philosophy of prioritisingtraditional methods over an unbridledrace for efficiency. The winemaker’s

methods are fine tuned to his art andinclude malolactic fermentation, coldstabilization at –4°C, followed byaging in a chalk cellar. The De Sousafamily vineyard is in Avize, in the heartof the prestigious Côte des Blancs andits grands crus (Avize, Oger, Cramantand Le Mesnil sur Oger). De Sousaproduces crisp Champagnes with a lot

of personality and remarkable aromaticcomplexity. For more information:www.champagnedesousa.com

*Mycorrhizal fungi (from the Greekmyco “fungi” and rhiza “root”) formsymbiotic associations with grapevineroots in which both organisms benefitfrom the relationship.

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NEWS

Maison Gosset has given its classic bottlesa modern facelift. The restyled packaging isrefined, more up-to-date and integrates acommitment to sustainable development.The company has sought to find theright balance between respect for theenvironment and tradition, and its newpackaging uses the latest technology inthe service of environmental responsibility.The boxes and labels come fromsustainably managed forests around theworld, and the printing process is entrustedto Imprim’Vert® printers (a Frenchcertification for environmentally responsibleprinting), ensuring low environmentalimpact aligned with high quality. With

THE MORE THINGS CHANGE,THE MORE THEY STAY THE SAME

its 426-year history and a tradition thathas been passed down over 15 generations,Gosset confirms that the secret to itslongevity is constant creativity.

Gosset Grande Réserve: 38 euros*;Gosset Grand Rosé: 48 euros*; Gosset Grand Millésime 2000: 56 euros**Plus delivery charges; offer available only in France.Also available by direct sale:Tél. +33 (0)3 26 56 99 56, or at theGrande Épicerie de Paris, Fauchon,Lafayette Gourmet, Lavinia.For more information: www.champagne-gosset.com

FOR A

WELL-ROUNDED WINE

Chef & Sommelier, Arc International’swine-dedicated brand, has reissued the“Grand Finale”, a hand-blown carafeexclusively for decanting fine red wines.Its elegant, circular shape is utterly original,its curves allowing for smooth pouring asthe wine gently flows over the decanter’srounded sides. The Grand Finale embodiesmaster glassmaking and also benefits fromthe latest Drop Control technology, atreatment applied to the neck of thedecanter to allow drip-free pouring. DropControl is totally invisible and has nonegative effects on the wine. www.chefsommelier.fr

GRANDE RÉSERVE

GRAND ROSÉ

GRAND MILLÉSIME 2000

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NEWS


Off the west coast ofScotland, between the Isleof Islay and the Isle ofSkye, the Isle of Mull ishome to one sole whiskydistillery: Tobermory.Created in 1798 by JohnSinclair, it is also calledLedaig, the name of thelargest town on theisland. Since it was takenover by Burn Stewart, thisMull distillery has madetwo premium whiskieswith resolutely differentb u t c o m p l e m e n t a r yp e r sonalities. Ledaig isdistinguished by its subtlepeaty character, whileTobermory seduces withits elegant floral, fruityaromas and notes of seasalt. Both single maltshave a bottling strength of46.3° and are non-chillfiltered, that is, they are

not filtered at cold temperatures. As aresult, they should be diluted exclusivelywith mineral water. Whiskies to discoverif you appreciate adventuring off thebeaten track.

Available from selected wine sellers.Tobermory 10-year-old whisky: around 45 euros; Ledaig 10-year-old whisky: around 42 euros.

AND THE WINNER IS…

CHÂTEAU PAVIE DECESSE!

Château Pavie Decesse took first-placehonours at the twelfth prestigious Saint-Emilion Grands Crus Classés Challenge,held for the third time in its history out-side France (this year’s challenge washeld in Hong Kong, during VinexpoAsia). The Château Pavie Decesse(owned by the Perse family) came aheadof Château Destieux (ChristianDauriac), the runner-up. The two semi-finalists were Château La Couspaude(owned by the Aubert family, and semi-finalist in 2002 and 2004) and ChâteauMonbousquet (also of the Perse family).Organised by the Saint-Emilion WineCouncil, the competition, held every twoyears, has 40 Saint-Emilion grands crusclassés go head to head in a series of eli-minatory rounds in which pairs of winesare compared for overall qualityconsistency for three consecutive vintages.This year, the vintages were 2005, 2006and 2007.

PREVIOUS WINNERS• 2008 Château Canon La Gaffelière• 2006 Château Clos des Jacobins• 2004 Château Les Grandes Murailles• 2002 Clos de l’Oratoire• 2000 Château Canon La Gaffelière • 1998 Château Larmande• 1996 Château Angélus• 1994 Château Angélus• 1992 Château La Dominique• 1990 Château Larmande • 1988 Château Guadet Saint-Julien

TOBERMORY AND LEDAIG:

TWO ORIGINAL WHISKIES

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NEWS

LOOKS GOOD IN WOOD

Château Brane-Cantenac is a second grand

cru classé in Margaux that has belonged to

Henri Lurton since 1992. To celebrate the

festive season, Lurton is offering Château

Brane-Cantenac bottles in boxes of exotic

wood, like expensive perfumes or precious

jewels. The elegant sapele-wood boxes are

made by the Bordeaux box-maker Marie-

Louise and are exclusively sold by Lavinia,

located at Boulevard de la Madeleine in

Paris (www.lavinia.com). The boxes are

available for the vintages 1996, 2000, 2005

and 2006 in 750 ml bottles, and also for

2006 vintage magnums. The 2007 vintage

of the château’s second wine, Baron de

Brane, is also available in a box.

PRICE

• 2007 Baron de Brane: 40 euros

• 1996 Château Brane-Cantenac

(750 ml): 150 euros;

2000: 147 euros;

2005: 95 euros;

2006: 69 euros

• 2006 Château Brane-Cantenac (1.5 L):

125 euros

For more information:

www.brane-cantenac.com

The world leader in sales of French oakcasks and an undisputed point of referencein high-quality barrel-making, SeguinMoreau is also a company committed tothe environment. Following a review ofits carbon footprint, this year thecooperage launched the world’s firstCarbonNeutral® casks. This innovationresponds to the demand of Australianand New Zealand oenologists underpressure from European retailers toguarantee the lowest possible environmentalimpact of the wines they carry. To createtheir carbon-neutral barrels, SeguinMoreau worked with The CarbonNeutral

CARBONNEUTRAL® CASKS

Company, a recognised global providerof carbon reduction solutions. SeguinMoreau compensates for the emissionsfrom the manufacture of its casks byinvesting in international programmesfor renewable energy development. Thecost related to each barrel (around 3euros) is billed to the client if theychoose to take part in the effort toachieve zero carbon. Since February, 3,100carbon-neutral casks have been sold tomarkets in the Indian Ocean.

For more information: www.seguin-moreau.fr

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RECOMMENDED WINES


Gilbert & GaillardWine International Selection

CHAMPAGNE

Guy Tixier & fils

Brut 1er Cru Rosissime

Deep orangy colour. Freshn o s e o f r e d f r u i t f l e s h(strawberry, raspberry). Fleshy,soft, crunchy attack, good balance and appealingfruit-driven aftertaste. A rosé equally delicious as anappetiser or with a meal.

87/100

CHAMPAGNE Simon-SelosseExtra Brut Grand CruB r i l l i a n t l i g h t g o l d .Extremely pure fragrantnose mingling whiteflowers, fresh hazelnutand ripe apple. The same streamlined style is presenton the palate. Fashioned in a natural, fruit forwardstyle showing best with a buffet or with grilled fish.

90/100

LANGUEDOC A.C.Domaine de DaurionPrestige rouge 2005Concentrated colour with faint orangytints. Nose of stewed fruit and under-growth with underlying vanilla. Ageingaromas are expressed with greaterdensity on the palate. Substance issoft, the tannins are polished. A successful effort, drinking well now.

86/100

BANDOL A.C.Domaine de l'OlivetteRouge 2005Deep colour, slightly evolved.Open nose reminiscent of ripe figand prune, under la id wi ths p i c e . A mature wine on thepalate, a melted attack leads intoa firmer finish making it a definitefood wine, for game.

88/100

CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA LONDE A.C.Domaine Saint-André de FiguièreConfidentielle rouge 2008Ve r y d a r k c o l o u r .Concentrated nose of redand black fruit, hint of spice,great elegance. The palate is afusion of fullness, substance, finesse, freshness.It deploys clear-cut, long-lasting aromas. A superlativewine, just embarking on its long life.

91/100

CÔTES DE PROVENCE A.C.

Domaine Saint-Jean de Villecroze

Exceptionnel 2007

Deep colour. Initially mineral andsmoky on the nose, leading to veryripe fruits and undergrowth. On thepalate, wonderful substance,silkiness, melted tannins. The finish is powerful yetremains very well-balanced. Serve with red meat or game.

88/100

CÔTES DE PROVENCE A.C.

Domaine de la Rouillère

Grande Réserve

Cuvée 2009Light yellow. A mix of mild spices,herbs and garrigue on the nose. Onthe palate, a very soft wine withheady, elegant aromas. Length iswell above average and provides a real bonus.

90/100

CÔTES DE BERGERAC A.C.

Ortus 2007

Deep colour. Rich nose, burntoak, notes of sloe, blackcurrantand cherry. Dense, full mouth-feel with silky substance. Moreof the rich aromatics deployedon the nose. Long woody, chocolatey aftertaste. A top of the range wine, still in its early years.

90/100

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

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Don't miss out!

We are delighted to present the 2011 Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide. All thewines featured have been tasted using the same protocol, ensuring arigorous, impartial selection. The samples sent by producers are blind

tasted by Gilbert & Gaillard and their team in the quiet seclusion of a tasting room. A 100point scale is employed for utmost accuracy. There is no question of marathon tastings as nomore than 10-15 samples are tasted per session to maintain fair judgement and analysis.

More than 6,000 French wines have been selected, along with commentaries, tasting notes

and recommendations on how to serve them. All the classed growths and most prestigious

wines are featured, but there are also many smaller, lesser-known wine growers to discover

too. Each wine growing region is represented, together with a detailed map and every appellation is closely analysed,

with commentaries. The Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide is the essential guide to discovering French wines.

NEW EDITION

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• 720 pages • 5 000 wines presented • 280 Bordeaux vintage 2009 •• Exhaustive presentation of the French appellations (AOCs) •

DISTRIBUTION:

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(United Kingdom - Ireland, East Europa, Japan, China)

PUBLICATION DATE:November 2010

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France: The best winesin each appellation

RATED WINES 90/100 AND MORE


GOLD CLUB

ALSACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 26

BORDEAUX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 27

BURGUNDY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 30

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON . . . Page 33

PROVENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 34

SUD-OUEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 36

LOIRE VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 37

RHÔNE VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 38

The wines presented on the following pages have all been tasted and rated

by the editors of Gilbert & Gaillard Wine International. They are the 400 best-

rated wines out of the 6,000 we tasted this year - the best of the best - the

essential vintages you should have in your wine cellar.

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AALLSSAACCEE GGEEWWUURRZZTTRRAAMMIINNEERR AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Jean Sipp Cuvée Carole 2008 19.00 €

91/100 Cave du Roi Dagobert Sélection de

Grains Nobles - Prestige - 50 cl 2007 26.35 €

91/100 Domaine Claude et Christophe Bléger

Sélection de Grains Nobles - 50 cl 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Aimé Stentz Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007 29.00 €

90/100 Domaine Dischler

Sélection de Grains Nobles 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Domaine Charles Fahrer

Sélection de Grains Nobles 50 cl 2007 14.50 €

90/100 Victor Lorang et Fils Cuvée Luka -


AALLSSAACCEE GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU GGEEWWUURRZZTTRRAAMMIINNEERR AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Steinert 2007 17.00 €

91/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -

Vieilles Vignes 2007 16.50 €

91/100 Domaine Saint-Rémy Goldert 2008 15.10 €

90/100 Domaine Dopff au Moulin Vorbourg 2008 14.00 €

AALLSSAACCEE GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU GGEEWWUURRZZTTRRAAMMIINNEERR AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Eblin Fuchs Sonnenglanz 2005 15.00 €

91/100 Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg Furstentum -

Anne Boecklin 2008 10.60 €

AALLSSAACCEE GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU RRIIEESSLLIINNGG AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Domaines Schlumberger Kitterlé 2005 18.45 €

95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2004 16.00 €

95/100 Domaine Moritz Moenchberg 2003 13.00 €

95/100 Philippe Gocker Rosacker 2006 12.00 €

92/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg 2004 17.50 €

92/100 Domaine Jean-Philippe &

Jean-François Becker Froehn 2008 11.95 €

91/100 Domaine Rieflé Steinert -

Bonheur Exceptionnel 2007 13.00 €

91/100 Domaine Roland Schmitt Altenberg

de Bergbieten 2008 13.00 €

91/100 Domaine du Moulin de Dusenbach Sporen 2008 14.50 €

90/100 Jean-Baptiste Adam Kaefferkopf -


90/100 Lucien Albrecht Pfingstberg 2008 15.35 unknown

90/100 Frederic Geschickt Kaefferkopf 2008 12.00 €

90/100 Domaine Joseph Scharsch Altenberg

de Wolxheim 2007 10.00 €

90/100 Ruhlmann Muenchberg 2005 10.00 €

90/100 Robert Faller et Fils Geisberg 2005 19.50 €

90/100 Jean-Paul Mauler Schoenenbourg 2008 9.50 €

90/100 Domaine André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg -

Sélection de Grains Nobles - 50 cl 2000 15.50 €

AALLSSAACCEE MMUUSSCCAATT AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Schaeffer Philippe Fronholz -


AALLSSAACCEE PPIINNOOTT GGRRIISS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Jacques Iltis Sélection de Grains Nobles -

50 cl 2007 17.00 €

AALLSSAACCEE RRIIEESSLLIINNGG AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Edmond Rentz Suppler 2004 7.70 €

90/100 Julien Schaal Les 5 Pierres 2008 13.00 €

DDIIVVEERRSS AALLSSAACCEE AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Cave de Ribeauvillé Clos du Zahnacker 2008 22.10 €

GOLD CLUBA L S A C E

AC ALSACE GRAND CRU

Only four grape varieties arepermitted for the A.O.C. AlsaceGrand Cru: Gewürztraminer,Riesling, Muscat and PinotGris. The label must includeA.O.C. Alsace Grand Cru andshow the locality, the grapevariety and the year. Twenty-five localities were selected in1983. Then in 1992, theNational Institute for Appellations

d'Origine ratified the defini-tion of 25 new parcels. Fromthat time, Alsace has prideditself on a new appellationmade up of 50 Grands Crus.The wines produced in theseareas have rare elegance andgreat finesse, and also power,quality and distinction. Thebest years give wines that canbe laid down for a long time.

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GOLD CLUBBORDEAUX



BBAARRSSAACC AA..OO..CC..

94/100 Château Coutet Millésime 2007 unknown

90/100 Château de Rolland Millésime 2007 16.50 €

BBOORRDDEEAAUUXX SSUUPPÉÉRRIIEEUURR AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château de Reignac Grand Vin Millésime 2008 15.00 €

90/100 Château de Seguin Cuvée Carl 2006 15.00 €

GGRRAAVVEESS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château de Chantegrive Henri Lévêque 2007 20.00 €

90/100 Château de Respide Callipyge 2008 10.50 €

HHAAUUTT--MMÉÉDDOOCC AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Château La Lagune Millésime 2007 45.00 €

92/100 Château Cantemerle Millésime 2007 unknown

92/100 Château La Tour Carnet Millésime 2007 38.50 €

91/100 Château Camensac Millésime 2007 unknown

91/100 Château Belle-Vue Millésime 2009 15.00 €

90/100 Château de Gironville Millésime 2009 unknown

LLAALLAANNDDEE DDEE PPOOMMEERROOLL AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château de Musset Cuvée Première 2006 12.00 €

90/100 Château Fleur de Jean Gué Réserve 2007 25.00 €

MMAARRGGAAUUXX AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Château Lascombes Millésime 2005 55.00 €

95/100 Château Rauzan-Ségla Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château Dauzac Millésime 2007 unknown

94/100 Château Lascombes Millésime 2007 43.00 €

94/100 Château Prieuré-Lichine Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Brane Cantenac Millésime 2007 50.00 €

93/100 Château Cantenac-Brown Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Giscours Millésime 2006 50.00 €

92/100 Château Siran Millésime 2009 23.00 €

92/100 Château Marquis de Terme Millésime 2007 unknown

92/100 Château Kirwan Millésime 2007 unknown

92/100 Château Labégorce Millésime 2007 unknown

91/100 Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge Millésime 2009 108.00 €

91/100 Château Desmirail Millésime 2007 unknown

91/100 Château Monbrison Millésime 2007 30.00 €

91/100 Château Mongravey Millésime 2007 21.00 €

91/100 Château La Tour de Mons Milésime 2007 17.00 €

90/100 Château du Tertre Millésime 2006 36.00 €

90/100 Château d'Angludet Millésime 2007 unknown

HAUT-MÉDOC A.C.

Château

La Tour Carnet 2007Deeply coloured. Delicate nose of ripered fruit, roasted coffee and toast. Soft,fleshy, polished fruit-driven attack,refined tannins. Wood is noticeableon the finish but will almost certainlymellow. Lovely overall.

92/100

MARGAUX A.C.

Château Tour de Mons 2007

Relatively deep colour. Refined nosemingling red fruit and delicate,slightly toasted wood. Etherealmouthfeel with extremely refinedtannins. Although the aromas arestill backward, finesse and length arealready apparent. A stylish Margaux.

91/100


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GOLD CLUBBORDEAUX

PPAAUUIILLLLAACC AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Château Lynch-Bages Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse

de Lalande Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Pontet-Canet Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Pichon Longueville Baron Millésime 2007 unknown

92/100 Les Forts de Latour Millésime 2009 144.00 €

92/100 Château Clerc Milon Millésime 2007 unknown

92/100 Château Pédesclaux Millésime 2005 35.00 €

91/100 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse Millésime 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Château d'Armailhac Millésime 2007 unknown

90/100 Carruades de Lafite Millésime 2009 216.00 €

PPEESSSSAACC--LLÉÉOOGGNNAANN AA..OO..CC..

94/100 Château Malartic-Lagravière Millésime 2007 40.00 €

94/100 Château Carbonnieux Millésime 2008 unknown

93/100 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Millésime 2007 40.00 €

92/100 Château Olivier Millésime 2005 27.00 €

92/100 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Millésime 2007 25.00 €

92/100 Domaine Clarence Dillon Clarence

de Haut-Brion Millésime 2009 120.00 €

91/100 Château Brown Millésime 2007 20.00 €

90/100 Château Saint Eugène Millésime 2007 8.10 €

90/100 Château Le Sartre Millésime 2007 15.00 €

90/100 Château Le Sartre Millésime 2008 15.00 €

PPOOMMEERROOLL AA..OO..CC..

99/100 Château Trotanoy Millésime 2009 unknown

98/100 Château l'Eglise-Clinet Millésime 2009 437.00 €

98/100 Pétrus 2009 unknown

98/100 Vieux Château Certan Millésime 2009 258.00 €

98/100 Château Clinet Millésime 2009 162.00 €

97/100 Château l'Evangile Millésime 2009 300.00 €

97/100 Château La Fleur-Pétrus Millésime 2009 unknown

96/100 Château Le Pin Millésime 2009 1 675.00 €

95/100 Château Le Gay Millésime 2009 102.00 €

95/100 Château Nenin Millésime 2009 51.00 €

95/100 Clos l'Eglise Millésime 2009 204.00 €

94/100 Château La Fleur de Gay Millésime 2009 78.00 €

93/100 Château Gazin Millésime 2009 73.00 €

93/100 Château Certan de May Millésime 2009 41.00 €

93/100 Château Beauregard Millésime 2009 36.00 €

93/100 Château Le Bon Pasteur Millésime 2009 65.00 €

93/100 Château Plince Millésime 2007 22.00 €

92/100 Château Montviel Millésime 2007 30.00 €

92/100 Château Petit Village Millésime 2009 49.00 €

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C.

Château Saint-Eugène 2007

Deep red with slightly open highlights.The nose evolves with fruity notesleading to pleasant mineral and woodyfragrances. A suave wine on the palatewith polished tannins which graduallybecomes more powerful. Wonderfullength of fruit. A great find.

90/100

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C.

Château Le Sartre 2008

Light yellow. Delicate, crunchynose of fresh grape, grapefruitover a f lora l background.Seductively pure aromas on thepalate with a core of fruit. Fat onthe attack turns to a fresher midpalate with a pronounced acidulous character.

90/100

POMEROL AC

Château Mazeyres 2007

Deep, young red. Expressivenose marrying focused fruitand noble wood. Lovelyvelvety mouthfeel, cleanexpression and length. Asoft, charming Pomerol. Atrue crowd-pleaser.

90/100


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90/100 Château La Haye Millésime 2007 18.00

90/100 Château Petit Bocq Millésime 2007 16.00 €

90/100 Château Tronquoy-Lalande Millésime 2006 unknown

SSAAIINNTT--JJUULLIIEENN AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Château Léoville Barton Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château Gruaud Larose Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château Léoville Poyferré Millésime 2007 unknown

94/100 Château Branaire-Ducru Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Saint-Pierre Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Saint-Pierre Millésime 2006 unknown

93/100 Château Beychevelle Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Talbot Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Lagrange Millésime 2007 unknown

90/100 Château Gloria Millésime 2006 unknown

SSAAUUTTEERRNNEESS AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Château de Rayne Vigneau Millésime 2007 unknown

96/100 Château Guiraud Millésime 2007 unknown

96/100 Château Climens Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château de Fargues Millésime 2007 unknown

95/100 Château La Tour Blanche Millésime 2007 unknown

94/100 Château Sigalas-Rabaud Millésime 2007 unknown

94/100 Château Doisy Daëne Millésime 2007 33.50 €

93/100 Château Romer du Hayot Millésime 2007 19.00 €

93/100 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Nairac Millésime 2007 unknown

93/100 Château Caillou Millésime 2004 34.00 €

92/100 Château Haut-Bergeron Millésime 2007 23.00 €

92/100 Château Filhot Millésime 2007 24.00 €

92/100 Château Lamothe Millésime 2006 23.00 €

91/100 Château Bastor-Lamontagne Millésime 2007 unknown

90/100 Château Haut Bommes Millésime 2007 20.00 €

92/100 Clos de la Vieille Eglise 2007 44.50 €

92/100 Château La Croix de Gay Millésime 2009 29.00 €

92/100 Château Beau Soleil Millésime 2008 20.00 €

90/100 Château Mazeyres Millésime 2007 21.50 €

90/100 Vieux Château Ferron Millésime 2006 36.00 €

90/100 Château Vieux Maillet Millésime 2007 25.00 €

SSAAIINNTT--EEMMIILLIIOONN GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..92/100 Château Dassault Millésime 2007 32.00 €

92/100 Château Cap de Mourlin Millésime 2007 27.50 €

91/100 Château Cadet-Bon Millésime 2007 24.20 €

91/100 Château Fonroque Millésime 2007 24.00 €

91/100 Château Laroze Millésime 2005 27.00 €

91/100 Château Laroque Millésime 2005 32.00 €

90/100 Château Haut Troquart -

La Grâce Dieu Cuvée Passion 2007 18.00 €

90/100 Château Pipeau Millésime 2006 17.00 €

90/100 Château Grand Corbin Millésime 2007 19.00 €

90/100 Château Franc Mayne Millésime 2007 28.00 €

90/100 Château La Clotte Millésime 2007 35.00 €

90/100 Château Fleur Cardinale Millésime 2006 32.00 €

90/100 Château Franc la Rose 2007 17.80 €

90/100 Château La Fleur Millésime 2007 36.00 €

90/100 Château Grand-Pontet Millésime 2007 23.00 €

90/100 Château Berliquet Millésime 2007 25.00 €

SSAAIINNTT--EESSTTÈÈPPHHEE AA..OO..CC..97/100 Château Montrose Millésime 2006 60.00 €

93/100 Château Haut-Marbuzet Millésime 2008 27.00 €

93/100 Château Lafon-Rochet Millésime 2007 unknown

91/100 Château Lilian Ladouys Millésime 2009 15.00

91/100 Château Phélan Ségur Millésime 2007 unknown

91/100 Château L'Argilus du Roi Millésime 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Château de Pez Millésime 2007 unknown

90/100 Château Pomys Millésime 2007 unknown

SAINT-ESTÈPHE A.C.

Château

Tronquoy-Lalande 2006

Deep colour. Profound nose ofblack fruits, notes of spices andslightly roasted wood. On thepalate, an elegant, well-crafted wine with racy wood andintense, long-lasting fruit. A full, extremely promisingwine. Most certainly an up-and-coming château.

90/100

SAINT-JULIEN A.C.

Château

Langoa-Barton 2009

Intense colour, crimson highlights.Huge extraction on the palate withvery firm tannins still. An austerewine that can only be marked onits potential.

90/100


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GOLD CLUBBURGUNDY

91/100 Louis Michel & fils Vaudésir 2007 29.00 €91/100 Domaine Jean Collet & fils Valmur -

élevé en fûts de chêne 2008 25.00 €

CCHHAABBLLIISS PPRREEMMIIEERR CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Montée de Tonnerre -

Vieilles Vignes 2008 15.00 €90/100 Domaine Alain Geoffroy Beauroy 2007 14.00 €90/100 Louis Michel & fils Montée de Tonnerre 2008 16.00 €90/100 Domaine de la Mandelière Mont de Milieu 2008 10.70 €

CCHHAAMMBBOOLLLLEE MMUUSSIIGGNNYY AA..OO..CC..92/100 Jean-Claude Boisset 1er Cru Les Charmes 2008 44.50 €91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc Les Babillaires 2005 unknown

CCHHAARRMMEESS--CCHHAAMMBBEERRTTIINN GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..95/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie Les Mazoyères 2007 68.00 €90/100 Château de Melin Chemin de la Justice 2008 18.50 €

LLAADDOOIIXX AA..OO..CC..90/100 Domaine Edmond Cornu & fils

1er Cru La Corvée 2008 20.00 €

MMAAZZYY--CCHHAAMMBBEERRTTIINN GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..92/100 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Millésime 2002 unknown

AALLOOXXEE CCOORRTTOONN AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine Nudant Clos de la Boulotte -

Monopole 2007 23.00 €

BBEEAAUUNNEE AA..OO..CC..93/100 Domaine Seguin-

Manuel 1er Cru Clos des Mouches 2008 40.00 €

91/100 Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot

1er cru Les Bressandes 2007 unknown

BBOONNNNEESS MMAARREESS GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..95/100 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Millésime 2008 94.50 €

CCHHAABBLLIISS AA..OO..CC..90/100 Domaine Hamelin 1er Cru Beauroy 2008 12.00 €

CCHHAABBLLIISS GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..95/100 Simonnet-Febvre Les clos 2007 34.95 €

95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau père & fils Les Clos -

Clos des Hospices dans les Clos 2008 unknown

92/100 Domaine Guy Robin & fils Vaudésir -


91/100 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros 2008 38.90 €

91/100 Domaine Long-Depaquit Les Vaudésirs 2008 33.80 €

91/100 Raoul Gautherin & fils Grenouilles 2008 unknown

CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY A.C.

Les Babillaires 2005

Deep, reasonably young red. Veryopen nose of undergrowth, humus,dried vegetal. The palate retains plea-sant harmony, constantly framed bypower. A highly expressive wine pairingwell with roast poultry or game.

91/100

BONNES MARES GRAND CRU A.C.

Domaine Fougeray

de Beauclair 2008Dark colour. Profound nosemingling ripe fruit and toastedoak notes. Seductive volume,melted texture and superbfreshness enhancing very purefruit. Superlative elegant, subtle ageing.

95/100

CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C.

Valmur

Fûts de chêne 2008

Light yellow. Expressive nose,predominant white flesh fruit andlate-picked citrus over a slightlytoasted background. Full, supple and rich, clearly-delineated fruit. Already extremely approachable, thestage is set for continued improvement over time.

91/100

CHABLIS GRAND CRU A.C.

Domaine Guy Robin & fils

Vaudésir Vieilles vignes 2008

L i g h t ye l l ow, g r e e n i s h t i n t s .Wonderfully promising nose, mineral,honeyed note. Full, concentrated, racypalate. A powerful wine revealing apronounced sense of place, fresh, harmonious. Leave to developfor 6-8 years before setting it alongside lobster.

92/100


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CLOS DE VOUGEOT GRAND CRU A.C.

Maison Jessiaume

Millésime 2007

M e d i u m i n t e n s i t y r e d .Pronounced toasted wood onthe nose set against a moreopen, animal background.Seductively full, powerful mouthfeel, clean. Beneath thefieriness of youth lie the makings of a great wine.

95/100

MAZY-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU A.C.

Domaine Henry

Rebourseau 2002Colour revealing brick-red shades.Open nose combining jammy redfruit, dried fruit, notes of under-growth and game. Seductive volume on the palate, delicatesubstance with well-integrated components. A wine bothpresent and ethereal to be decanted.

92/100

MEURSAULT A.C.

Domaine Guy Bocard

Limozin 2007

Limpid pale yellow. Afterswirling, the nose unveilstoasted notes over a back-drop of late-picked lemon. Soft, closely-integrated,silky mouthfeel boasting great length and lots offreshness. A well-crafted Meursault.

92/100

POUILLY-FUISSÉ A.C.

Domaine Auvigue

Cuvée Hors Classe 2008

Deep, golden yellow. Layerednose exhibiting subtle fragrancesof liquorice, menthol, lemon…Remarkable harmony between fat, power and freshnesswith just a hint of perfectly-controlled maturing. A goldstandard wine !

95/100



MMEERRCCUURREEYY AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Château d'Etroyes Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

des Ormeaux 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine Michel Juillot 1er Cru Clos

des Barraults 2007 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine Theulot Juillot 1er Cru La Cailloute -

Monopole 2008 15.00 €

MMEEUURRSSAAUULLTT AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche

1er Cru Genévrières 2008 55.00 €

92/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Limozin 2007 28.00 €

92/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Les Narvaux 2007 28.00 €

92/100 Domaine Albert Grivault 1er Cru Perrières 2008 43.00 €

92/100 Bader-Mimeur Millésime 2008 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2007 35.00 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Les Grands Charrons 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Château Labouré-Roi Clos de la Baronne 2008 19.50 €

NNUUIITTSS SSAAIINNTT GGEEOORRGGEESS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Remoriquet 1er Cru Les Damodes 2008 27.00 €

PPEERRNNAANNDD--VVEERRGGEELLEESSSSEESS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine père & fils

1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2007 23.00 €

90/100 Château de Melin Chemin de la Justice 2008 18.50

LLAADDOOIIXX AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Edmond Cornu & fils

1er Cru La Corvée 2008 20.00 €

MMAAZZYY--CCHHAAMMBBEERRTTIINN GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Henri Rebourseau Millésime 2002 unknown

MMEERRCCUURREEYY AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Château d'Etroyes Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

des Ormeaux 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine Michel Juillot 1er Cru Clos

des Barraults 2007 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine Theulot Juillot 1er Cru La Cailloute -

Monopole 2008 15.00 €

MMEEUURRSSAAUULLTT AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine Alain Patriarche

1er Cru Genévrières 2008 55.00 €

92/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Limozin 2007 28.00 €

92/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Les Narvaux 2007 28.00 €

92/100 Domaine Albert Grivault 1er Cru Perrières 2008 43.00 €

92/100 Bader-Mimeur Millésime 2008 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2007 35.00 €

90/100 Domaine Guy Bocard Les Grands Charrons 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Château Labouré-Roi Clos de la Baronne 2008 19.50 €


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GOLD CLUBBURGUNDY

PPOOUUIILLLLYY--FFUUIISSSSÉÉ AA..OO..CC..

95/100 Domaine Auvigue Cuvée Hors Classe 2008 17.00 €

93/100 Domaine Auvigue Le Clos 2008 14.00 €

91/100 Château de Pouilly Cru du Roy 2007 23.00 €

91/100 Nadine Ferrand Prestige 2008 16.50 €

90/100 Domaine du Chalet Pouilly Elevé en fût de chêne 2008 15.20 €

PPUULLIIGGNNYY--MMOONNTTRRAACCHHEETT AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Henri Prudhon & fils Les Enseignières 2007 19.00 €

SSAAIINNTT--AAUUBBIINN AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Joël Rémy 1er Cru Le Sentier du Clou 2008 15.00 €

90/100 Bader-Mimeur 1er Cru “En Rémilly” 2008 14.90 €

SSAAIINNTT--VVÉÉRRAANN AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine des Poncetys Le Clos du Château 2008 8.80 €

SSAAVVIIGGNNYY LLEESS BBEEAAUUNNEE AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Michel et Joanna Ecard

Domaine Michelet Joanna Ecard

1er Cru Serpentières - Vieilles Vignes 2007 unknown

VVOOLLNNAAYY AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Réyane & Pascal Bouley

1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2007 23.50 €

91/100 Château de la Crée 1er Cru Clos des Angles 2007 35.00 €

90/100 Domaine Poulleau Père & Fils 1er Cru 2008 22.60 €

90/100 Arthur Barolet & Fils 1er Cru Le Ronceret 2007 unknown

VVOOSSNNEE RROOMMAANNÉÉEE AA..OO..CC..

98/100 Domaine Michel Gros 1er Cru Clos des Réas -

Monopole 2004 unknown

VVOOUUGGEEOOTT AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine de la Vougeraie 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc

de Vougeot - Monopole 2007 59.00 €

NNUUIITTSS SSAAIINNTT GGEEOORRGGEESS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Remoriquet 1er Cru Les Damodes 2008 27.00 €

PPEERRNNAANNDD--VVEERRGGEELLEESSSSEESS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine père & fils

1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2007 23.00 €

PPOOMMMMAARRDD AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine Jean-Luc Joillot Les Noizons 2008 22.00 €

92/100 Château de Pommard Millésime 2007 50.00 €

92/100 Domaine Coste Caumartin 1er Cru

Le Clos des Boucherottes - Monopole 2008 27.90 €

92/100 Domaine Albert Grivault 1er Cru Clos Blanc 2008 25.00 €

91/100 Domaine Lejeune 1er Cru Les Argillières 2008 24.00 €

90/100 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure

1er Cru Clos des Charmots 2008 20.00 €

AC NUITS SAINT-GEORGES

Overview: this appellation

c ove r s b o t h N u i t s - S a i n t -

Georges and Prémeaux-Prissey.

Stretching over a 6km strip, the

area is split into two parts, one

located north of the town, the

other in the far south of Nuits-

Saint-Georges. Middle Jurassic

limestone and marl soils are

home to the vines here. The red

wines are made from Pinot

noir whilst a clutch of whites

are produced from Chardonnay.

Wine s ty le s : Nui t s -Sa in t -

Georges is a generous, well-

constituted, robust wine with a

strong framework and a power-

ful, complex bouquet. On the

nose, it is fruity with notes of

blackcurrant, cherry, prune

stones, truffle and leather with

nuances of undergrowth. It

conjures up earthy, even gamey

notes. Nuits-Saint-Georges can

be served with roast red meat,

Brie or Pont l’Evêque cheese.

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GOLD CLUBLANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

MMAAUURRYY AA..OO..CC..90/100 Domaine Fontanel Millésime 2007 13.00 €

90/100 Domaine Arguti Ugo 2007 15.00 €

MMIINNEERRVVOOIISS AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvée Orebus 2008 10.00 €

90/100 Julien Château Villerambert Julien

Millésime 2006 16.00 €

RRIIVVEESSAALLTTEESS AA..OO..CC..95/100 Domaine de Rancy Ambré 1993 18.50 €

90/100 Vignerons Catalans en Roussillon Ambré

Hors d'Age 1988 15.00 €

90/100 Château Dona Baissas Ambré - Hors d'âge 12.50 €

SSAAIINNTT--CCHHIINNIIAANN AA..OO..CC..93/100 Château Saint Martin des

Champs Cuvée Mathieu 2004 45.00 €

90/100 Domaine des Jougla Viels Arrasics 2007 unknown

VVIINN DDEE PPAAYYSS DD''OOCC92/100 Laurent Miquel Viognier - Vérité 2008 16.00 €

LANGUEDOC GRÉS DE MONTPELLIER A.C.

Château de Flaugergues

Cuvée Colbert 2006

Intense colour, deep purplehighlights. Delicate, concentratednose blending black fruit, mildspices and notes of fresh oak. Full, fat, finely-woven,harmonious substance. Wonderful mouth-coatingvolume, great harmony and nice length. Great potential.

90/100

AC MAURY

Overview: this region covers 5villages in Pyrénées-Orientales.Although the climate isMediterranean, the vines alsoenjoy occasional Atlanticinfluences. Soil type is predo-minantly black shale whichretains heat during the day andreleases it by night. The fruit isdestemmed and whole berriesare macerated to make Maury.Traditionally, neutral spirit isadded with the pomace still inthe tanks. Skin contact thenlasts for two weeks or more,extracting greater aromas,colour and tannins. A quarterof the wines are aged traditio-

nally in oak and the remainingthree quarters in concretetanks. They remain in the cellaruntil the first September of thesecond year after the harvest.Wine styles: Maury is a fruity,complex red dessert wine. It isdrawn primarily fromGrenache and Macabeu. Onthe palate, it shows concentra-ted aromas of red or black fruit,vanilla, spices, dried figs, bees-wax, cocoa and mocha. It is arobust, fleshy wine with a mel-low softness derived from itssweetness. It makes an idealappetiser, or can be served withfoie gras or a chocolate dessert.

BBAANNYYUULLSS AA..OO..CC..90/100 Les Clos de Paulilles Cap Béar 2006 unknown

BBAANNYYUULLSS GGRRAANNDD CCRRUU AA..OO..CC..94/100 Cave de l'Abbé Rous Cuvée Christian Reynal 1998 30.50 €

93/100 Cellier des Templiers Cuvée Président

Henry Vidal 2000 35.50 €

CCOORRBBIIÈÈRREESS AA..OO..CC..92/100 La Grande du Bouïs Cuvée Roméo 2007 32.00 €

91/100 Château de Lastours Réserve 2006 18.00 €

90/100 Cave Coopérative de

Castelmaure Grande Cuvée 2008 10.20 €

FFAAUUGGÈÈRREESS AA..OO..CC..90/100 Abbaye Sylva Plana Le Songe de l'Abbé 2007 13.80 €

LLAANNGGUUEEDDOOCC AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine Saint-Jean du Noviciat Mas

du Novi Prestige 2006 9.80 €

90/100 Mas des Dames La Dame 2008 unknown

90/100 Domaine de la Grange Castalides - Icône 2008 26.90 €

LLAANNGGUUEEDDOOCCGGRRÈÈSS DDEE MMOONNTTPPEELLLLIIEERR AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château de Flaugergues Cuvée Colbert 2006 12.00 €

LLAANNGGUUEEDDOOCC LLAA CCLLAAPPEE AA..OO..CC..93/100 Château des Karantes Diamant 2006 39.00 €

LLAANNGGUUEEDDOOCC PPIICC SSAAIINNTT--LLOOUUPP AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine Devois du Claus Millésime 2007 unknown


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GOLD CLUBPROVENCE

BBAANNDDOOLL AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine La Bastide Blanche

Cuvée Estagnol 2006 unknown

92/100 Domaine La Suffrène Les Lauves 2007 18.00 €

92/100 Domaine de la Bégude Millésime 2006 20.00 €

90/100 Domaine de la Laidière Millésime 2009 14.00 €

90/100 Domaine La Suffrène Millésime 2009 10.00 €

CCOOTTEEAAUUXX DD''AAIIXX EENN PPRROOVVEENNCCEE AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château Vignelaure Millésime 2005 19.00 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDEE PPRROOVVEENNCCEE AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Château Minuty Prestige 2009 16.00 €

90/100 Domaine Saint-André de Figuière Réserve 2007 20.24 €

90/100 Domaine du Jas d'Esclans Cuvée du Loup -

Rosé de saignée 2009 9.50 €

90/100 Château La Jeannette Baguier 2007 11.50 €

90/100 Château de Saint-Martin Grande Réserve 2009 12.10 €

90/100 Château Barbeiranne Cuvée Charlotte 2007 16.25 €

90/100 Château l'Arnaude Cuvée Thérèse 2009 9.50 €

90/100 Château Minuty Prestige 2009 16.00 €

90/100 Château de l'Aumérade

Cuvée Seigneur de Piegros 2009 9.30 €

90/100 Château de Brégançon Cuvée Prestige 2009 12.80 €

90/100 Domaine de la Rouillère Grande Réserve -

Cuvée fût de chêne 2009 12.10 €

90/100 Domaine de la Croix Eloge 2009 13.00 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDEE PPRROOVVEENNCCEE LLAA LLOONNDDEE AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Domaine Saint-André de

Figuière Confidentielle 2008 24.00 €

91/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2008 15.00 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDEE PPRROOVVEENNCCEE

SSAAIINNTTEE VVIICCTTOOIIRREE AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château Grand'Boise Millésime 2009 7.50 €

90/100 Domaine Sainte Lucie

Made In Provence Premium 2007 12.00 €

LLEESS BBAAUUXX DDEE PPRROOVVEENNCCEE AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Mas de la Dame Coin Caché 2007 20.00 €

92/100 Domaine Dalmeran MMV 17.50 €

90/100 Château Romanin Millésime 2005 17.00 €

90/100 Domaine Dalmeran MMIII 16.80 €

BANDOL A.C.

Domaine La Suffrene

Les Lauves 2007

Beautiful dark colour. Thenose gradually unfurls to aro-mas of black olive, prune, truf-fle, liquorice. On the palate, arich wine, both powerful and harmonious with seduc-tive aromatic complexity and already imposing length.

92/100

LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE A.C.

Château Dalmeran MMVDeep red. Intense fruity nosewith predominant aromas offresh fig, wild mint and pepperwith notes of liquorice. Thepalate offers a structure of incrediblequality and tannins, with thesame remarkable aromatic range.A superlative wine.

92/100

AC CÔTES DE PROVENCE

Overview: the Côtes deProvence appellation areacovers a vast swathe of land,stretching from Marseillesacross to the Alpes-Maritimesdepartment and embracing 84towns and villages (68 in Var,15 in Bouches-du-Rhône, andjust one in Alpes Maritimes,Villars-sur-Var). Such an exten-sive area is naturally home to acomprehensive range of ‘ter-roirs’. The Maures mountainrange and coastal region sharehighly similar characteristics,primarily granite and shalesoils. Between Toulon andSaint-Raphaël, the soil is clayey

sand, whilst the plateau andhills of Provence are mostlyformed of limestone. As awhole, the region is fragmen-ted and made up of individualparts. The vines grow chiefly onterraced sites and the climatethroughout the region isMediterranean, with long, hot,dry summers and rainfall inthe spring and autumn. 2005saw the advent of two site-spe-cific appellations: Côtes deProvence Sainte-Victoire, eastof Aix-en-Provence, and Côtesde Provence Fréjus, on the farside of the area, between Saint-Raphaël and Trans en Provence.


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GOLD CLUBSUD-OUEST

AARRMMAAGGNNAACC AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine de Magnaut Millésime 1984 47.00 €

BBAASS AARRMMAAGGNNAACC AA..OO..CC..

94/100 Castarède Hors d'Age - 20 ans d'âge 60.00 €

BBOORRDDEERRIIEESS AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Camus Cognacs Borderies XO 110.00 €

CCAAHHOORRSS AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2007 unknown

92/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 19.50 €

91/100 Château du Cèdre Le Cèdre 2007 28.00 €

91/100 Château Pineraie L'Authentique 2007 20.00 €

90/100 Château de Chambert Origine 2007 7.00 €

90/100 Château de Mercuès Malbec 2007 13.00 €

90/100 La Bérangeraie La Gorgée

de Mathis Bacchus 2007 16.00 €

CCOOGGNNAACC AA..OO..CC..

100/100 Pierre Ferrand Millésime 1914 950.00 €

95/100 Château de Beaulon Extra Rare 363.00 €

95/100 Cognac Otard 1795 Extra 275.00 €

94/100 Château de Beaulon XO Millésime 1975 unknown

94/100 Cognac Hennessy XO unknown

92/100 Cognac Otard XO Gold unknown

90/100 Caves Charlemagne XO 70.00 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDEE BBEERRGGEERRAACC AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château Bélingard Ortus 2007 14.75 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDEE GGAASSCCOOGGNNEE II..GG..PP..

90/100 Domaine Chiroulet Vent d'Hiver - 50 cl 2007 unknown

FFIINNEE CCHHAAMMPPAAGGNNEE AA..OO..CC..

94/100 Cognac Courvoisier Napoléon 78.00 €

GGAAIILLLLAACC DDOOUUXX AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine de Labarthe Les Grains d'Or -

élevé en fûts de chêne 2009 10.80 €

COGNAC A.C.

Château de Beaulon - Extra Rare

Deep mahoghany. Clean, expressive,straightforward nose with perfumes ofspice, orange peel and candied fruit.Wonderful smoothness, gradually gainingin power whilst losing none of its harmony.Extraordinary length on the finish. A greatachievement !

95/100

GRANDE FINE

CHAMPAGNE

Drouet et Fils V.S.O.P.

Coppery, orangy hue. Expressive noseshowing abundant charm, minglingfloral notes, spices, dried fruits. On thepalate, a full Cognac revealing thesame dynamic character. A fresh, clas-sic style with very long-lasting fragrances. A stellar Cognac.

90/100

AC CAHORS

Overview: the Cahors region islocated in the Lot department.The soils lay on a bed ofancient alluvium shaped intoterraces or gently rolling hills.They are meagre, laden withquartz pebbles and siliceousgravel, interspersed with redclay and iron-rich sand. Alongthe plateau, the soil is morelimestone. The valley enjoys anextremely unusual microcli-mate. The area is prone tosome treacherous frost in thewinter, though it is not particu-larly wet and autumn is usuallysunny which promotes ripe-ning. Wine styles: Cahors only pro-duces red wines from theAuxerrois grape variety (also

known as Cot or Malbec).Occasionally, Merlot is addedto the blend to soften thewines. Often dubbed ‘blackwine’ because of its extremelydark hue and highly-presenttannins, it is fruity and fleshywhen young. Over the first twoto three years, it remains closedbefore subsequently acquiringfullness and roundness.Predominant aromas aremushroom, spices, strawberry,prune, mineral notes and slightlytoasted fragrances. In the earlyyears, Cahors pairs extremelywell with foie gras, duck confitor a leg of mutton. A few yearsdown the line and it can beenjoyed with truffle croustade,ribsteak with ceps or game.


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GOLD CLUBLOIRE VALLEY

GGRRAANNDDEE CCHHAAMMPPAAGGNNEE AA..OO..CC..99/100 Cognac Frapin Extra 415.00 €

96/100 Thomas Hine & cie Antique XO Premier Cru unknown

95/100 Cognac Frapin Multimillésime 1982-1983-1986 unknown

95/100 Cognac Frapin Multimillésime 1979-1983-1985 150.00 €

92/100 Thomas Hine & cie Millésime 1975 unknown

92/100 Cognac Delamain & cie Millésime 1979 250.00 €

GGRRAANNDDEE FFIINNEE CCHHAAMMPPAAGGNNEE AA..OO..CC..90/100 Domaine Drouet & fils V.S.O.P. 31.00 €

HHAAUUTT--MMOONNTTRRAAVVEELL AA..OO..CC..90/100 Château Dauzan La Vergne

Elevé en fût de chêne - 50 cl 2001 13.50 €

JJUURRAANNÇÇOONN AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Cauhapé Noblesse du Temps 2007 28.50 €

92/100 Vignau la Juscle Vendanges Tardives 2007 25.00 €

90/100 Domaine Bru-Baché La Quintessence 2006 22.00 €

PPAACCHHEERREENNCC DDUU VVIICC BBIILLHH AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château Laffitte-Teston Rêve d'Automne 2008 9.90 €

PPIINNEEAAUU DDEESS CCHHAARREENNTTEESS AA..OO..CC..

95/100 Domaine Drouet & fils Vieux Gabriel 15.00 €

92/100 Château de Beaulon 50 cl 1995 unknown

AANNJJOOUU AA..OO..CC..90/100 Château de Fesles La Chapelle 2007 12.00 €

BBOONNNNEEZZEEAAUUXX AA..OO..CC..93/100 Château La Varière Les Melleresses - 50 cl 2007 unknown

BBOOUURRGGUUEEIILL AA..OO..CC..90/100 Domaine des Chesnaies Cuvée Prestige 2005 6.60 €

CCHHIINNOONN AA..OO..CC..92/100 Couly-Dutheil Clos de L'écho 2005 16.50 €

91/100 Château de la Grille Millésime 2005 18.00 €

90/100 Domaine des Bouquerries Cuvée Royale 2009 5.70 €

CCOOTTEEAAUUXX DDEE LL''AAUUBBAANNCCEE AA..OO..CC..91/100 Domaine de Montgilet Les Trois Schistes 2008 16.50 €

MMUUSSCCAADDEETT SSÈÈVVRREE EETT MMAAIINNEE AA..OO..CC..90/100 Vignoble Poiron-Dabin Grande Réserve 2004 7.00 €

PPOOUUIILLLLYY--FFUUMMÉÉ AA..OO..CC..94/100 Château de Tracy 101 Rangs 2008 60.00 €

91/100 Henri Bourgeois La Demoiselle de Bourgeois 2008 19.00 €

91/100 Domaine Chauveau Cuvée Sainte Clélie 2008 9.00 €

91/100 Château de Tracy Haute Densité 2005 45.00 €

90/100 Domaine Laporte La Vigne de Beaussoppet 2008 17.70 €

QQUUAARRTTSS DDEE CCHHAAUUMMEE AA..OO..CC..

95/100 Château La Varière Les Guerches - 50 cl 2008 33.00 €

93/100 Château Bellerive Millésime 2007 32.50 €

92/100 Domaine des Baumard Millésime 2007 32.30 €

AC QUARTS DE CHAUMEOverview: this area is locatedin Rochefort sur Loire and inChaume, around the Layonriver. The name of the appella-tion is a throwback toMediaeval times when a lordwould rent his land to anabbey in exchange for a quarterof the harvest. The noble-rottedgrapes are picked in batches asthey ripen. The vines are plan-ted on shale soils covering 50 hec-tares on a south-facing hillside.

Wine styles: the wines aresweet, racy, firm, silky, delicateand rich. They have a fullmouthfeel and are long on thepalate, with a great propensityfor ageing. Their well-definedstructure and a certain austerityin their early years sets themapart from other Layons. Theydisplay a golden hue and revealfragrances of wax, linden, can-died fruits, honey, verbena andquince.

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SSAAIINNTT--NNIICCOOLLAASS--DDEE--BBOOUURRGGUUEEIILL AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Frédéric Mabileau Eclipse “N° 8” 2008 18.00 €

SSAANNCCEERRRREE AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Domaine Henry Natter Cuvée François de

la Grange de Montigny 2007 unknown

90/100 Domaine de la Perrière Mégalithe 2008 18.80 €

SSAAUUMMUURR AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Domaine de la Paleine Casta Diva 2008 25.00 €

90/100 Domaine de la Paleine Pamina 2007 12.50 €

SSAAUUMMUURR CCHHAAMMPPIIGGNNYY AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine de Nerleux Les Loups Noirs 2008 13.50 €

90/100 Domaine de la Perruche Clos de Chaumont 2006 14.00 €

GOLD CLUBLOIRE VALLEY

SSAAVVEENNNNIIÈÈRREESS AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine FL Le Parc 2007 15.60 €

91/100 Château d'Epiré Le Hu Boyau 2008 12.50 €

90/100 Domaine du Closel La Jalousie 2008 12.00 €

TTOOUURRAAIINNEE AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay La Voute 2009 unknown

90/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Sauvignon 2009 5.30 €

90/100 Famille Gaillard Sauvignon 2009 6.20 €

TOURAINE A.C.

Famille Gaillard

Sauvignon 2009

Pale yellow, beautiful appearance.Expressive, crunchy nose sugges-tive of citrus with a mineral andfloral background. Seductive fresh-ness and aromatic focus on the palate. A precise, tenseSauvignon for pleasure. A top-flight wine.

90/100

GOLD CLUBRHÔNE VALLEY

BBEEAAUUMMEESS DDEE VVEENNIISSEE AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaine Beauvalcinte Les Trois Amours 2007 9.90 €

CCHHÂÂTTEEAAUUNNEEUUFF DDUU PPAAPPEE AA..OO..CC..

95/100 Château Mont-Redon Millésime 2008 18.60 €

95/100 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret

Cuvée Exceptionnelle 2006 16.00 €

94/100 Domaine Juliette Avril Cuvée Maxence 2008 37.40 €

93/100 Domaine Paul Autard Juline 2008 unknown

93/100 Château Mont-Redon Millésime 2007 22.80 €

93/100 Domaine Bosquet des Papes Chante le Merle -


92/100 Château La Nerthe Cuvée des Cadettes 2005 62.00 €

92/100 Domaine Moulin-Tacussel Millésime 2008 22.00 €

92/100 Domaine de la Mordorée La Reine des Bois 2008 38.00 €

91/100 Château de la Gardine Millésime 2007 29.00 €

91/100 Domaine Duclaux Millésime 2006 19.00 €

91/100 Vignobles Mayard La Crau de Ma Mère 2007 27.00 €

91/100 Domaine du Père Pape Millésime 2007 22.00 €

91/100 Château Husson Les Saintes Vierges 2008 18.50 €

91/100 Domaine Juliette Avril Millésime 2009 16.00 €

91/100 Domaine de Saint Paul Millésime 2008 18.00 €

90/100 Château Saint Jean Millésime 2008 16.00 €


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90/100 Domaine de Nalys Réserve 2007 24.00 €

90/100 Domaine de la Présidente Grands Classiques 2009 18.70 €

90/100 Clos du Calvaire Millésime 2007 17.50 €

90/100 Château Beauchêne Grande Réserve 2007 unknown

90/100 Vignobles Diffonty Cuvée du Vatican -

Réserve Sixtine 2008 unknown

90/100 Lavau Millésime 2009 17.90 €

90/100 Domaine des 3 Cellier Privilège 2008 35.00 €

CCOONNDDRRIIEEUU AA..OO..CC..

95/100 De Boisseyt-Chol Les Corbonnes 2009 24.00 €

93/100 Domaine Farjon Millésime 2008 unknown

93/100 Domaine Pichat La Caille 2008 unknown

92/100 Pierre Gaillard Millésime 2008 31.00 €

91/100 Domaine Mouton Côte Chatillon 2009 26.00 €

CCOORRNNAASS AA..OO..CC..

96/100 Domaine Courbis Les Eygats 2007 31.00 €

CCOOSSTTIIÈÈRREESS DDEE NNÎÎMMEESS AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Château de la Tuilerie Eole Rouge 2007 30.80 €

90/100 Château d'Or & de Gueules La Bolida 2008 22.00 €

CCÔÔTTEE RRÔÔTTIIEE AA..OO..CC..

93/100 Domaine Gilles Barge Cuvée du Plessy 2007 26.00 €

93/100 Benjamin et David Duclaux Maison Rouge 2008 45.00 €

91/100 Skalli Grand Vin du Rhône Prince de Monvert 2006 unknown

91/100 Vignobles Levet Cuvée Améthyste 2007 22.00 €

90/100 Domaine de Rosiers Millésime 2008 25.00 €

90/100 Domaine Corps de Loup “Corps de Loup” 2007 24.00 €

CCÔÔTTEESS DDUU RRHHÔÔNNEE--VVIILLLLAAGGEESS

PPLLAANN DDEE DDIIEEUU AA..OO..CC..

91/100 Domaine des Pasquiers L'Envol 2007 19.00 €

CCRROOZZEESS--HHEERRMMIITTAAGGEE AA..OO..CC..

92/100 Domaines Paul Jaboulet Ainé

Domaine de Roure Millésime 2007 31.80 €

90/100 Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet Nouvelère 2007 14.00 €

90/100 Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Christophe 2008 14.00 €

GGIIGGOONNDDAASS AA..OO..CC..90/100 Arnoux et Fils Seigneur de Lauris 2007 14.95 €

HHEERRMMIITTAAGGEE AA..OO..CC..


La Petite Chapelle Millésime 2006 69.00 €

94/100 Domaine Michelas - St Jemms Terres d'Arce 2008 35.00 €


Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Millésime 2007 53.00 €

91/100 Skalli Grand Vin du Rhône Roc des Monges 2006 unknown

LLUUBBEERROONN AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Château Fontvert Millésime 2009 10.00 €

SSAAIINNTT--JJOOSSEEPPHH AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Millésime 2006 14.00 €

VVAACCQQUUEEYYRRAASS AA..OO..CC..

90/100 Le Clos de Caveau Lao Muse 2006 27.00 €

VVIINN DDEE PPAAYYSS DDEESS CCOOTTEEAAUUXX DDEE LL''AARRDDÈÈCCHHEE

92/100 Château de la Selve Florence 2007 40.75 €

CÔTE-RÔTIE A.C.

Domaine Gilles Barge

Cuvée du Plessy 2007

Fairly deep colour. The nose isinitially floral then developsripe red fruit, spice and leatheraromatics and a mineral dimension. Nicely harnessedpower and concentration on the palate that showsseductive refined substance, freshness and persistency.

93/100

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE A.C.

Domaine du Vieux

Lazaret-Cuvée

Exceptionnelle 2006Deeply-coloured. Subtle, evolvingnose intermixing ripe black fruit,dried fig, cocoa and liquorice.Oustanding qualities on the palate : fullness, expression,silkiness, complexity. The aftertaste leaves no trace ofheaviness. A superlative wine.

95/100


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It was at the Ritz-Carlton in Cancun under the blazing Mexicansun that we had the privilege of meeting Julia Roberts. The starof “Pretty Woman” is back in Ryan Murphy's recent film “Eat,Pray, Love”. This autobiographical story is about a 40-somethingAmerican woman who rediscovers happiness by, among otherthings, eating in restaurants in Rome and sampling the local wines.

STARS & WINE



How would you summarise “Eat, Pray,

Love”, the best-seller by Elizabeth

Gilbert that Ryan Murphy has recently

made into a film?

It's the story of a woman in her 40s who

is lost and can no longer stand the routine

of her life or the fact that her future is all

mapped out for her. Overnight, she decides

to walk out on everything. Her city, her

husband, her friends, her job! She packs

her bags and decides to travel the world.

Her rites-of-passage trips to India,

Indonesia and Rome allow her to think

about herself, open up to others, and to

discover unconditional love and the

pleasures of eating and drinking.

There is a lovely scene in the film where

we see your character go into raptures

over a superb plate of spaghetti served

al dente in an Italian restaurant. For

you, are a good meal and a fine wine

also the key to happiness?

There's no question about it! Especially

in Italy, and even more so in Rome. It was

the third time that I'd been to the city,

and each time, it works its charm. The scene

that you mention is really a metaphor.

With the plate of pasta, we wanted to

show Elizabeth finally letting herself go.

A mouth-watering spaghetti paired with a

good wine are one of the keys to relieving

the pressure that she's been putting on

herself all her life! In eating this meal,

she finally begins to take care of herself.

How many times did you film the scene?

At least ten times! Since the pasta was

delicious, I managed to finish the plate

several times. Same for the wine. It was so

amazing that I couldn't spit it out! By the

end of the day, I was pretty perky!

And the importance of wine for you

personally?

I will never understand people drinking

water when enjoying good meat. Wine is

the yin! Fish, shellfish, pasta, a good

stew…the yang! They are inseparable.

While on the subject, I remember a visit

to Paris that was eye-opening. Sitting

behind me, there was a young American

couple who were eating a roast chicken

with cola! I couldn't stop myself from

calling over the sommelier and telling

him, “See the people at that table over

there? Could you bring them a Côte de

Brouilly and tell them it's on the house?

Put the bottle on my bill, of course.”

Do you have a wine cellar, Julia?

Let's say that I have a few bottles of wine

that I keep in a wine cabinet! It's practical

and preserves the wine well, but it doesn't

have the same charm as a vaulted cellar.

What was the last wine that you drank?

A Burgundy! A Chablis to be exact. It was

last night! Unfortunately, I was drinking

it during a discussion that made me feel

nauseous - the BP oil spill. What's happened

in the Gulf of Mexico made me lose my

appetite.

Exactly 20 years ago, you became an

international star with “Pretty Woman”.

Do you have good memories of the

shoot?

Not exclusively, but generally, I do, yes.

We filmed at the Beverly Wilshire, one of

the most highly rated luxury hotels on

the west coast of the US. Richard [Gere]

and I became buddies with the sommeliers,

so we were able to enjoy vintage wines

from well before I was born.

Interview in Cancun, Mexico

by Frank Rousseau

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Julia Roberts: wine lover and gourmet

Jul ia Roberts

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STARS & WINE


You once said that anyone could be an

actor. Was that one of your jokes?

Not at all! Anyone could do this job. You

just need a decent memory and to avoid

spilling red wine down the shirt of

influential producers. I'm not the type of

actor that internalises his role for weeks.

Don't count on me to kill my parents

before playing a murderer. I know my

limitations. Now, I want to be clear, to be

actor in order to feel immortal is fine for

five minutes, but not more. Like most of

us, as far as I'm concerned, I do this job

because I'm less bad at it than anything

else.

Is it true that you were once kicked off a

film by Francis Ford Coppola because

you thought his wine tasted of cork?

No, Francis Ford Coppola's wine is

excellent. The reason he dismissed me is

because I had auditioned for his film

Dracula, and to get noticed I put on the

accent of a Kentucky farmer. Judging that

I had wasted his time, Coppola called my

agent and asked him if

my neurons were working

correctly. As a result,

my agent got rid of me!

Interview by Frank Rousseau in Los Angeles

by epicureans - among them,

owners of hundreds of hectares

of vineyards. That day, I can

assure you that I didn't try to

show off! Being kindly put in my

place by these undisputed specialists

taught me some humility, so I

took some oenology courses to

train my palate to make the distinction

between a good wine and an exceptional

one. That took me a good ten years.

What wines might we find in your cellar?

I recently bought several cases of

Montepulciano. It's a deep red wine that

I find very tannic and generous in the

mouth. I also love going to the village,

especially on an Indian [a vintage motorcycle

from the 1950s]. The winding roads are

dangerous, but once you arrive in this

amazing place, you feel like you've gone

back in time. Not long ago I discovered a

white wine from there that I didn't know:

Le Trebbiano. It's a knock-out with chioccioloni

alla crema!

Do you remember the first fine wine

you drank that really woke up your taste

buds?

Yes! I was with a very beautiful woman...

I can't reveal her identity. However, I can

tell you the name of the wine. It was a

bottle of Barolo 1959.

Why did you choose Italy as your

second home?

For its prosciutto that melts in your mouth

and the quality of its wines, because I'm a

professional drinker. I encourage my

fellow Americans to travel outside the

States more often and to try something

besides cheeseburgers when they visit a

country where you can eat such incredible

food. I also try to dissuade them from

wearing socks with their sandals, flowery

shorts and T-shirts labelled with beer

brands.

How well do you know your wine? A little?

A lot? Obsessionally?

For a long time I pretended to be a real

connoisseur. When I drank vintage wine

with friends who were self-proclaimed

wine experts, I faked it to save face. How

many times in the course of an evening I

came out with wine terms that I had

heard or read somewhere. Until the day

I found myself invited to a meal organised

by some Italian notables. I was surrounded

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George Clooney

George Clooney: a gentleman and epicureanWe know the silver-haired actor for his sharp sense ofhumour. What else? Ah, yes… his smooth performancesfor Nespresso. But did you know that George Clooney hasalso fallen under the spell of Italian wines? During thepromotion of his latest film “The American”, the starspoke to us about his love affair with vintage wines.

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HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

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Provence2,600 YEARS OF WINEMAKING F

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BY SYLVAIN PATARD

As in many other French regions, viticulture in Provencebecame more structured at the beginning of the MiddleAges with the Christian expansion. In 1437, René

d’Anjou became the Count of Provence and contributed tobringing prosperity to a region ravaged by the Hundred Years'War. It became part of the kingdom of France in 1481.

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, the winegrowing areaincreased, taking the place of wheat fields, despite the fact that faminethreatened and the Crown had taken measures to restrict winecultivation. By the late 1800s, Provence's vineyards were beatinghistoric records of production, before being destroyed by thephylloxera epidemic that swept the continent.

The ancient Greek colony of Massilia was founded in 600 BC by the Phocaeans, whoplanted the first vineyards on the surrounding slopes. The original cultivation waslikely for local use rather than for trade, however, the settlement that later becameMarseille quickly grew into a crossroads for the wine trade with Italy, as the numberof wine vessels (dating from 500 BC) discovered there and on the nearby seabedattest. Winegrowing in the area further developed with the Roman conquest.

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1960S RENAISSANCEWhen winegrowing was re-established in Provence, old grapevarieties such as Mourvèdre were abandoned (except in Bandol)to make way for more productive varieties such as Aramon. As inneighbouring Languedoc-Roussillon, this resulted in overproductionleading to a drop in sales and triggering the wine crisis of 1907.A return to quality and the rebirth of the Provence winetradition began only in the 1960s, encouraged by the steadygrowth of tourism in this region with its idyllic climate. In 1977,the emblematic appellation of the region, Côtes de Provence,achieved recognition as an AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée).Today, after 40 years of effort, Provence has regained its nobleroots and now proposes excellent wines from all its appellations,such as Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, Les Baux de Provence, Bandol,Cassis, Coteaux Varois and Côtes de Provence.

THE SUCCESS OF CÔTES DE PROVENCEThis appellation is the region's most extensive, consisting of fivedistinct winegrowing areas spread over the Bouches-du-Rhône, theVar and the Alpes-Maritimes. Although the appellation's identityrests on rosé wines, its reds are worth discovering. Created fromthe same grape varieties, the resulting wines have a variety ofexpressions. A grape variety such as Carignan produces excellentwines with carbonic maceration, which gives the wine a lot ofaroma and freshness. These wines should be drunk ratheryoung. Other Côtes de Provence reds are aged in casks forgreater tannin extraction and are then finished by maturationin oak; these are more robust and should be matured in thebottle for one or two years. In good years, these deep andcomplex wines are suitable for aging.

Côtes de Provence whites represent amuch smaller part of production(around 5%). They are by turns floral orfruity, with citrus or mineral hints. Thechosen terroir for Provence whites isnear Cassis, which gave its name to theappellation in 1936. Their specificblend gives Cassis wines distinctivearomatic characteristics (thyme, sage, wildmint) and a delicious contrast betweenrichness and liveliness.

BANDOL,THE KNIGHTOF PROVENCEAnother major Mediterranean wine isBandol. Here, the Mourvèdre grapevariety (which, it is claimed, onlyreveals its true worth when it is near thesea) is practically a religion. Grenache,Cinsault, Syrah and, to a lesser extent,

Carignan also feature. Bandol reds are full-bodied but balanced,aged for at least 18 months in oak barrels (often in very largefoudres), which gives them structure, depth and fullness. Whenyoung, their aromas are fruity, floral (violet) and spicy (pepper,liquorice); after aging they become more expansive and their softbouquet can evoke leather, mushroom and undergrowth. Therosés also have character -they can often be aged for several yearsdue to the anti-oxidising properties of Mourvèdre.

WINES AND GASTRONOMYIt is also important to mention the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provenceappellation, which in 1995 saw its western area become its ownappellation of Les Baux-de-Provence. The latter is located in theimpressive setting of the Alpilles around the superb fortifiedvillage of Baux-de-Provence. The red wines are interesting andstructured and require prolonged maturing to achieve balance.The good vintages are suitable for aging, as are the wines from theCoteaux Varois appellation.

Apart from its vineyards, Provence has much else in its favour,particularly its fresh and aromatic cuisine that shows off its winesto their best advantage. Its whites are perfect for an apéritif as wellas an excellent accompaniment for classic regional fish dishessuch as bourride and bouillabaisse, its rosés go well with grilledlamb with herbs and sea bass grilled with fennel (delicious with aBandol rosé). Its reds are a good match for beef casserole, stuffedbreast of lamb, or the speciality of Marseille, pieds-paquets (tripesand trotters). Marseille, symbolic city of the south of France, givesus a fitting conclusion in the words of one of its most famousresidents, Marcel Pagnol: “When the wine is poured, it must bedrunk, especially if it is good.” What more is there to say?

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CÔTES DE PROVENCE

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Long considered as a minor wine by winemakers themselves, the rosés of Provencehave recently acquired a much more respectable reputation. Changes in productionmethods, the types of grape varieties grown and the progressive hierarchical organisationof terroirs have gone a long way to improve quality. The significant variations in theregion's terroirs have recently led to the demarcation of distinct geographic sub-areaswithin the Côtes de Provence appellation. In 2005, Sainte-Victoire and Fréjus becameappellations of their own, then La Londe in 2008, and next, no doubt, Pierrefeu.



44 GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL MAY 2010

both the influence of the Mediterranean, which avoids the risk

of spring frosts, and an exceptional geographical setting swept

by no fewer than 32 different winds. Well-ventilated by the

sea breeze, the Mistral, a wind from the east known as the Nice

Mistral and winds from the mountains, the vines are protected

from mould and rot. ”I am lucky to have vineyards in Sainte-

Victoire as well as in Fréjus,” explains Jérôme Paquette,

consultant oenologist and winemaker. “The two terroirs are

not suitable for exactly the same grape varieties. The former is

more adapted to Grenache and Syrah, while the latter is best for

Grenache and Tibouren. With modern rosé production

methods, today we can emphasise these differences in soil and

grape varieties.”

R osé wine is inseparable from the image of the Côtes

de Provence appellation, representing 80% of its total

production. Contrary to the reputation it has long

had, rosé is not a wine without identity - there are notable

differences in taste according to terroir. For this reason, in

1999 the region of Provence created the world's first research

centre dedicated to studying rosés and defining its different

characteristics.

With nearly 21,000 hectares spreading from Aix-en-Provence in

the interior to Saint-Raphaël on the sea, Côtes de Provence is

the largest, and thus the most heterogeneous, appellation in the

region. The initiative to recognise its specific terroirs is a

response both to its diversity as well as to the desire of its

winemakers to highlight their wines' particular characteristics.

The imposition of stricter production conditions and more

highly defined terroir boundaries has created the need for

different denominations to promote winemakers' efforts.

THE APPELLATION OF 32 WINDSFrom 2005, the westernmost area of the appellation, which

extends up the slopes of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain, was

officially recognised as the specific appellation Côtes de

Provence-Sainte-Victoire. This new appellation is more restrictive,

as only 1,700 out of 3,000 hectares of the region's vines are

accepted, and only for the production of red wines and rosés.

This was followed by another new appellation, taking the name

of the city of Fréjus. It consists of the Argens Valley, a large

natural bowl facing the sea, bordered on one side by the Maures

massif and on the other by the Estérel massif. The vineyards

stretch some 15 kilometres into the interior, benefitting from

HERVÉ LIMON OF DOMAINE DE LA JEANNETTE

Provence rosés come of age

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PROMOTING EXCELLENCECôtes de Provence winemakers do not plan to leave it at that,and are already planning a further division of the La Londeappellation, a terroir that even in the heat of the summer benefitsfrom morning dew. “La Londe enjoys the presence of winemakerswith an excellent reputation that will not only draw attention tothe future appellation, but will also oblige other winemakers tofollow suit,” says Hervé Limon of Domaine de la Jeannette.“Grouping winemakers of the same terroir together in a morehomogenous appellation will greatly help our marketing efforts,in addition to the fact that as a group we will be able to reach awider audience. Thanks to the collective presentation of ourwines over the last three years, we have already been able tobuild a significant local reputation.”

These quality initiatives are steps in the right direction to allowProvence rosé, the flagship of the region's winemaking, to regainits nobility.

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Sitting on the terrace that overlooks her vineyards, it is not

difficult to see why Lidewij van Wilgen decided that there

was more to life than making PowerPoint presentations.

Weary of the advertising industry, she came to France in 2002 and

made her home in an eighteenth century farmhouse near Béziers:

“I always loved to drink wine and I heard of this region as the New

World of France, so it would be easier to fit in here. And it’s close

to the sea - I love sailing.”

A contiguous 14-hectare vineyard that lies in an amphitheatre-

shaped valley surrounds the house. “The previous owner knew

that as a whole estate it was rare and wanted a lot of money for it”,

remembers Lidewij. “An American bought it but then pulled out.”

The buildings and vineyard were in poor shape when she moved

in. “It was badly managed over the last 20 years”, she says. “The

farmhouse still had sand floors. Even the villagers were upset by it.”

After its purchase by Lidewij, a team from the University of

Bordeaux inspected the estate’s terroir thoroughly. One of the

technicians ate (sic) some soil and declared that he had tasted

something similar at Pétrus. It took “at least four years” to

renovate the vineyards, which are now farmed organically: “It’s

very easy to be organic here. There is a natural eco-system.”

Lidewij studied for two years at a winemaking school in Béziers.

It is not easy for a Dutch woman to be judged by Frenchmen on

her tractor-driving skills: “With wine you start at zero, minus ten

even, because you’re Dutch and you’re a woman. But it’s healthy

in life to let something go and start again.”

She was studying fulltime whilst trying to bring up three young

children alone. “In the beginning it was really hard”, she admits.

“I would ask a local to plough the vineyards and he would call my

ex-husband in Holland to ask if he should do this. I was really

alone.”

She makes just the four wines, with the emphasis on clean, pure

fruit. She asserts, “If you have clean grapes you don’t need to do

much. Our way of winemaking is common sense, really.” Things

are kept simple and honest: minimal use of sulphur, pigeage

rather than remontage, and no new oak.

The tiny winery “means that I can make the quality of wine that I

want to make. You can do everything by hand.” Rather than use

“WITH WINE YOU START AT ZERO, BECAUSEYOU’RE DUTCH AND YOU’RE A WOMAN”

Lidewij van Wilgen of Mas des Dames: Dutch Angles

WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.masdesdames.fr

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agents, she sells direct to merchants and restaurants. About 30,000

bottles are made of Mas des Dames and another 20,000 or so of

unlabelled wines for airlines and the like.

Mas des Dames blanc is 100% white Grenache, labelled as Vin de

Pays d’Oc because the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation does

not permit monovarietal Grenache.

The rosé is made from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. “I didn’t

like rosé before I became a winemaker but I wanted to make one

in the south”, Lidewij reveals. “I use really high-quality old

vineyards so the wine is expensive to make. I sell it at a cost price.”

The unoaked La Dame is less structured than La Diva, the deep

colour of which comes from old, low-yielding Alicante. The two-

or three-year old barrels used for La Diva are sourced from

Burgundy and Côtes du Rhône.

Unlike many other femmes du vin, Lidewij was not born into

wine; instead, she chose it. Mas des Dames’s name comes from

Lidewij and her three daughters, who are the most recent in a long

line of female owners and residents at this property. Perhaps a

winemaking dynasty has been established.

The early days were a struggle but even now “there’s always

something, a fire in the vineyard or the pump that doesn’t work.”

But Lidewij still relishes her life: “To have 14 hectares of the world

that are your responsibility is a good feeling.”

Stuart George

THINGS ARE KEPT SIMPLE AND HONEST: NO NEW OAK

“I USE REALLY HIGH-QUALITY OLD VINEYARDS SO THE WINE IS EXPENSIVE TO MAKE”

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Chantal Brégeon-Gonet of ChampagnePhilippe Gonet: Gone to Earth

Joining the company in 2001, Chantal is the seventh generation of

her family to work in Champagne. The eighth generation of the

Gonet family looks assured: “My children are young but they already

have lots of character! My daughter’s destiny is Champagne, I think.”

Chantal lived in Singapore for three years when her husband was

working on the construction of the Mass Rapid Transit railway’s

signalling system, which was “how I started to sell my wine in Asia.”

Gonet’s top export markets are Belgium, Japan, Italy and Germany.

Based in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Gonet is next door to Salon and

Delamotte. But as a small, family-owned estate that makes very

good and reasonably priced wines it has little in common with its

more glamorous (and expensive) neighbours. Scarcity, prestige and

vaunted prices are not what Champagne Gonet represents.

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www.champagne-philippe-gonet.com

JOINING THE COMPANY IN 2001, CHANTAL IS THE SEVENTH GENERATION OF HER FAMILY TO WORK IN CHAMPAGNE

Situated on rue Clément, Chantal Brégeon-Gonet’s Point

Bulles Restaurant à Champagne was opened in May

2010. Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the spiritual home of

Existentialism; it is not difficult to imagine Jean-Paul Sartre and

Simone de Beauvoir sat on the terrace of rue Clément’s market

arcade, sharing a bottle of something or other while discussing

how and why l'existence précède l'essence.

The restaurant was named “Point Bulles” rather than “Gonet” so

as to allow other wines to be listed. The wine list is French-only

but diverse. In addition to Champagne, there are bottles from

Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire, Provence and the Rhône.

Chantal enjoys a wide range of wines: “I like Mosel Rieslings,

Priorat and Tuscany. I have tasted good Cava. I love New Zealand

wines for their freshness.”

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Gonet has 19 hectares of vineyards spread across Le Mesnil, Vertus,

Rilly-la-Montagne, the Marne and the Aube. Seven wines are made,

with the house style based predominantly on Chardonnay and low

dosages. The wines are intensely mineral and acidic, needing time

to develop balance and complexity.

The Réserve Brut NV combines the Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and

Chardonnay triumvirate to create what Pierre Gonet, Chantal’s brother

and the house’s winemaker, calls une expression de la maison plus

qu’une expression de terroir. The Rose Brut NV is deliciously

smooth and fruity; its Pinot is sourced from Premier Cru vineyards

in Vertus and its Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs. The Blanc

de Blancs NV is uncomplicated and enjoyable but the Blanc de

Blancs Millésimé 2002 is magnificent, with a superb texture.

Like the rugby player Sébastien Chabal, Roy Soleil NV is big and

intense. A pure Le Mesnil Chardonnay aged in 600-litre demi-muids

is always likely to be an imposing wine. Belimnita 2004, Gonet’s

only single vineyard wine, is “very mineral and very, very young”,

thinks Chantal. This is “a selection of our best vineyard in Le

Mesnil-sur-Oger. Haut Mesnil and Bas Mesnil are very, very

different. I think there is no better wine than a super selection but

you cannot make big quantities, which is why it is expensive and so

difficult to make.” Extra Brut 3210 NV comes from the Aube rather

than Le Mesnil because, as Chantal explains, “Le Mesnil as Extra

Brut is sometimes too mineral.”

Chantal remains ambivalent about the recent trend for highly

priced single vineyard Champagnes: “It’s possible to make a vin de

terroir by using small parcels. If you blend you make a standard

wine, you give a signature but no singularity. It is the best that can

happen to Champagne but the négoçiants do not like it because

there is no volume and no regularity.”

For Chantal, life is all about vive la différence: “Every year is different

and each generation has done something different. That’s what

makes it interesting.”

Stuart George and Amanda Regan



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BASED IN LE MESNIL-SUR-OGER, THIS SMALL,FAMILY-OWNED ESTATE MAKES VERY GOOD

AND REASONABLY PRICED WINES

“BELIMNITA 2004, GONET’S ONLY SINGLEVINEYARD WINE, IS A SELECTION OF OUR BEST”

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Coralie Goumarre of DomaineGalévan: Spirit of Wine

www.domaine-galevan.com

The famed US wine critic Robert Parker was in

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in late August 2010. But he has

yet to visit Domaine Galévan, nowadays overseen by

Coralie Goumarre, the ninth generation of her family - and the

first woman - to make wine at the family estate near Courthézon.

Galevan’s farmhouse is next to the A7 motorway, the west side of

which forms the north-eastern boundary of the Châteauneuf

appellation. Even though its vineyards are cheek by jowl with those

of Château de Beaucastel, not lying inside Châteauneuf itself has

perhaps condemned Galévan to be sometimes overlooked.

Galévan’s Châteauneuf, Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône

Villages vines are spread across two parcels, one on sandy argilo

sableux and the other, which is 90% of the total, on the classic

Châteauneuf terroir of argilo calcaire and galets roulés. The

vineyards are biodynamic and will be certified as such by the

2011 vintage.

Until Coralie’s father built the winery in 1967, Galévan’s grapes

went to the local Cellier des Princes cooperative. Some of the

Côtes du Rhône is sold as bulk wine but Coralie aspires to

bottling all her own wine.

Galévan’s maximum potential production from its 49 hectares of

vines is 330,000 bottles. The estate’s average vine age is about 50

years, with the oldest vines a parcel of Grenache that is 94 years

old. Syrah is trained to Cordon de Royat, the other varieties to

gobelet.

The small winery is as simple as it gets: the red wines are made

in concrete tanks, the whites in steel. “I don’t work by the book”,

explains Coralie. “I taste the wine and make it like that.” Seven

wines are made. The Côtes du Rhône rosé is clean, fresh andTHE SMALL WINERY IS AS SIMPLE AS IT GETS:““I TASTE THE WINE AND MAKE IT LIKE THAT”

CORALIE GOUMARRE, THE FIRST WOMAN TO MAKE WINE AT THE FAMILY ESTATE

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simple, all “fruit, fruit, fruit!” as Coralie puts it. The Grenache

juice is saignée but the Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Clairette and

Carignan are pressurages followed by macération pelliculaire

(skin and juice macerated together before pressing).

The Côtes du Rhône blanc is atypical for its high percentage of

Clairette. “I like white wines with beautiful acidity”, asserts

Coralie. “I don’t like flabby wines.”

Two red Côtes du Rhône are made: the unoaked Paroles de

Femme and the more elegant, darker flavoured and punningly

named Esprit Devin, which is made from a rockier terroir and

older vines than the Femme. It used to be bottled in a heavy bottle

but with the move towards biodynamics it became important to

consider more conscientious transportation methods and costs.

The Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc is part-fermented in new oak

barrels and aged on its lees for up to nine months. The 2007 is

drinking beautifully at the moment, retaining the clean acidity

that Coralie strives for.

Galevan’s grand vin Châteauneuf-du-Pape is mostly Grenache

with a seasoning of Mourvèdre. Aged in 500-litre casks and some

1-year old barriques that were used for the white wine, the 2008 is

a good effort for that unloved vintage. “I made a big selection in

2008, to make a good wine”, explains Coralie. She admits that

such conscientiousness “is difficult economically.”

In 2009, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape cuvée “Saint Georges” was made

for the first time from rented vineyards in and around Courthézon,

specifically the lieux dits of St-Georges and Beaucastel.

Galévan exports to Canada and the USA and has recently sold

wine in China. Coralie is open-minded about wines away from

the Rhône méridional: “I like Burgundy and some Italian wines.

I had Château Kefraya a few years ago and it was superb. It’s

important to taste different wines. You don’t have the same

analysis with these as you do with tasting another Châteauneuf

or Côtes du Rhône.”



Despite Parker’s enthusiasm for Châteauneuf, she remains ambivalent

about him: “I don’t say that I like his influence but it is a necessity.

If you have a good score it is easier to sell in the USA.”

As the first, but perhaps not the last, female member of her family

to make wine, she finds her work “interesting but difficult. There is

not only the winery and the vineyard; there are the customers and

the banks. There is always something to do. The bad side of the job

is not having enough time for myself, to play sports and go running.

But I like my job a lot. Watching TV at home is not for me.”

Stuart George

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THE CHÂTEAUNEUF TERROIR OF ARGILO CALCAIRE AND GALETS ROULÉS

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European wines have been required to state on the label if they containsulfites since 25 November 2005. This consumer-information measure issimilar to the American “Government Warning” label required for wine thatcontains sulfites. Although the levels of sulfur dioxide in wine have neverbeen so low, this labelling has had the effect of worrying consumers,perhaps realising for the first time that the wine they drink contains sulfites.Here we will take an objective look at sulfites to understand why they areused and the issues at stake.

a pure gas or a concentrated

solution, and also for those who

consume it, for whom it can

cause sneezing, irritation,

headaches and pulmonary

insufficiency. Medically speaking,

it is not, however, considered an

allergen as it does not lead to the

formation of immunoglobulin.

Beyond these direct health

concerns, both winemakers and

lawmakers have also sought over

time to limit the use of chemical

products out of respect for the environment and a growing

demand for the most natural products possible.

3. ARE SULFITES FOUND ONLY IN WINE?

Far from being restricted to wine, sulfur dioxide is found in

many food products: fresh, dried, frozen and tinned fruits,

vegetables and fish, flour, pasta, condiments, dried herbs,

different types of sugars, and fermented drinks (eg. cider, beer

and wine). It is one of the main food preservatives (labelled as

E220 and E228 on food products).

4. IS IT POSSIBLE TO ELIMINATE SULFITES IN WINEMAKING?

Completely avoiding sulfur dioxide in wine production is difficult

because it plays an important role in ensuring the quality of wine.


ORGANIC NEWS

Sulfites and organic wine

Jean Natol i

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1. THE VAST MAJORITY OF WINES CONTAIN SULFITES

Sulfur dioxide has been known and used since ancient times.

The Ancient Greek writer Homer referred to it as a disinfectant

around 800 BC. In the 15th century, it was mentioned in reference

to winemaking in several different documents. By the end of the

18th century, its uses in winemaking were described more

specifically. At this time, winemakers recognised that sulfur

dioxide:

• stopped fermentation

• avoided deterioration

• prevented 'cloudiness'

• prevented 'turning'

In those days, the role of yeasts, bacteria and chemistry in

winemaking were not yet fully understood… it would not be

until the beginning of the 20th century that the science and

practical applications of sulfur dioxide would be explained.

Today we know that sulfur dioxide essentially curtails the

growth of undesirable yeasts, allowing desirable yeasts to

thrive during fermentation; it limits damage to grape harvests

due to mildew or rot; it aids colour extraction; it acts as a

preservative; and it slows down oxidation. So sulfites have

many advantages in winemaking.

2. IN THAT CASE, WHY LIMIT THEIR USE?

The downside of sulfur dioxide is that it can be toxic when inhaled

or ingested. Both for those who use and handle it, as it is supplied as

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Winemakers who manage to avoid sulfites must harvest grapes

in perfect condition, limit any unnecessary oxidation in the

production process, control the activity of yeasts and bacteria,

and ensure effective clarification. These are the most fundamental

aspects of winemaking and must be implemented meticulously.

An absolutely perfect mastery of this without sulfites is

very difficult, and those who achieve it successfully - and

consistently - are rare.

5. IS IT POSSIBLE TO REDUCE SULFITES AND MAINTAIN QUALITY?

Sulfites are basically used at four stages in the winemaking process,

each with its own issue at stake:

• at harvest (the condition of the grapes)

• at the end of fermentation (yeast and bacteria control)

• during preservation and aging (cellar hygiene)

• at the time of bottling (consumer satisfaction).

Depending on the winemaker's priorities, the sulfites could be

reduced at any one or all of these stages - the most stringent

could opt for very low amounts or none at all. However, as we

have seen, the process of transforming grapes to wine begins

with the vine itself. The entire cycle of winemaking from the

very initial stages has to be considered in the quest for purity.

6. WHAT IS THE POSITION OF ORGANIC WINEMAKERS REGARDING SULFITES?

Reducing sulfites is a concern shared by the majority of

winemakers, both organic and non-organic. However, the

constraints on organic winemakers are greater as they are

bound to a charter restricting chemical additives. There are as

many positions on sulfites as there are schools of thought in the

organic sector, from biodynamics to 'natural' wines. To date,

there is no regulation in the strict sense of the term for the use

of sulfites in organic wines. The recognised guidelines advocate

a more or less radical reduction of sulfites. For dry red wines,

the maximum authorised level varies between 70 and 120

mg/litre (depending on the organic guidelines), while

European regulations allow 150 mg/litre. Considering that

winemaking documentation from the 1900s indicates that the

levels then were 400 mg/litre, it is clear that much progress has

already been made. Incidentally, yeasts can also produce,

completely naturally, considerable amounts of sulfur dioxide

during fermentation.

7. IS ELIMINATING SULFITES AN END IN ITSELF?

Today, there is a prevailing view that an absence of sulfites is a sign

of quality. However, many professionals, even in the organic

movement, recognise recurrent flaws in sulfite-free wine: for

example, oxidation, animal characteristics and the continuation of

fermentation after bottling.

Why impose health criteria at the expense of taste? The

consequence will be to restrict wine to a canon of beauty that is

difficult to achieve with consistent results and to fall into a trap

already encountered in previous times.

8. CONCLUSION

To entrust the transformation of grapes to nature alone is to produce,

almost inevitably, vinegar, the ultimate phase of their evolution.

Over the centuries, winemakers have sought to stabilise this process,

halting the transformation when grapes turn to wine. First they used

traditional methods, and later they discovered the principles of

oenology. This science is relatively recent at just over a century old. It

has been, and will continue to be, responsible for many advances,

including the issue of reducing or eliminating sulfites. The quest for

improving winemaking motivates winemakers, oenologists and

researchers alike and is driven by their passion for their product. The

ultimate goal is, as it should be, to produce healthy wine that is a

pleasure to drink.

Jean NatoliConsultant oenologist and organic winemaker

President of Vino Latino

ORGANIC NEWS


SULFUR DIOXIDE HAS BEEN USED SINCE ANCIENT TIMES

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Today, it would be impossible - and indeed unthinkable - to overlook Spanish wines.Spain can boast the largest wine-producing area in the world, and over the last thirtyyears has instigated an unprecedented quality revolution spearheaded by Rioja and,more significantly, Catalonia. This revolution is gradually spreading to formerlyunknown estates, demonstrating an aspect of the Spanish wine industry whichremains an open secret: its extreme diversity.


QUALITY FACTORS

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wine-lovers in other countries are well aware that Spain is now

capable of going head-to-head with the best wines in the world.

CATALONIA: IN THE VANGUARDFrom a wine-lover's point of view, Catalonia is one of Spain's most

interesting regions. A real open-air wine laboratory, the area has

undergone unprecedented changes since the 1970s. The effects of

this have been particularly spectacular in Priorat, which has developed

into Catalonia's star region and the subject of much envy from

elsewhere. Only a short time ago, the region was suffering heavily

from rural depopulation. A handful of talented wine-growing

oenologists recognised the potential to be found here, and the

whole surrounding area was propelled into an upwards spiral.

For the gourmet, Catalonia holds all the aces: an astonishing

diversity of terroirs and preparation methods, top-level oenologists,

Catalonia A SPANISH GIANTS

PA

IN

With 1.16 million hectares of land in use for wine

production, Spain has the largest area of vineyards

in the world. However, area does not equal

quantity, and the arid climate - which works against high

plantation density - combines with frost and steep slopes to

return poor natural yields, and a remarkable diversity of soil types

and grape varieties should also be taken into consideration. Even

so, the potential for quality is clearly immense, although far from

fully realised. The early 1980s revealed the ability of some growers

to get the best out of land which had until then been neglected, or

even abandoned. Perhaps the most spectacular evidence of this

revival can be found in the Priorat vineyards of Catalonia. In the

space of ten years, this mountainous region rose from the depths

of crisis to the top of the Spanish wine pile, obtaining the country's

second DOC classification (Rioja was the first) in 2001. And

although the essentially inward-looking French wine market may

not yet have woken up to the sheer scale of this phenomenon,

BY CHRISTOPHE CHAPILLON

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WITH 1.16 MILLION HECTARES OF LAND IN USE FOR WINE PRODUCTION, SPAIN HAS THE LARGEST AREA OF VINEYARDS IN THE WORLD

QUALITY FACTORS


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and a passion for research and innovation which motivates all

producers, from the industrial bodegas down to the smallest, most

selective vineyards. Local grape varieties such as the red Garnatxa

Negra (Grenache Noir), Carinyena (Carignan) and Ull de Llebre

(Tempranillo) grapes and the white Macabeu, Garnatxa Blanca,

Xarel-lo and Parellada grapes nestle alongside the nobler, more

recently-added French varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah,

Chardonnay). The latter grapes, planted over thirty years ago, now

feature in the great internationally-styled wines, and are responsible

for the current high standing of Catalan wines.

However, more prestigious oenologists such as Miguel Torres, the

Albet i Noya brothers or Jose Luis Perez, who use such world-

renowned varieties themselves, are well aware of the extraordinary

potential of the local grapes, and are producing experimental

quantities of thirty or so varieties currently facing extinction. Who

knows, perhaps one of these will produce a great Spanish wine of

tomorrow... In this respect, growers' experiences with Garnatxa

Negra - a traditional Priorat variety - have been of great interest.

Indeed, it was this very grape - overlooked until fairly recently

because of its tendency to oxidise - which was used in the creation of

Alvaro Palacios' L'Ermita, which is now Spain's most expensive wine.

Here, in this co-existence of tradition and cutting-edge technology, is

the key to the present and future richness of the vineyards of

Catalonia, which are a source of infinite discoveries.

However, we should not overlook the influence of terroir on wine

quality. In particular, Priorat has the sort of potential which required

only the touch of a human hand to become apparent. In a land of

steep hillsides rising to a height of 250-600 metres, surrounded by a

range of mountains, the vines grow on schistose scree slopes known

as llicorella. The rapid drainage of the soil in these parts obliges the

vines to grow deep for water, producing extremely low yields; and

old Garnatxa vines growing in this area produce a wine which is rich

in extraction and high in alcohol. The architect of Priorat’s

renaissance is René Barbier, whose family also founded the bodega

of the same name. In 1979, he began restoring Clos Mogador and

was soon being copied by a number of friends and acquaintances,

including Alvaro Palacios. Today, major investors such as Miguel Torres

and the Codorniu group are also showing an interest in the region.

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Catalonia comprises ten wine regions, nine of which have their own

DO: Empordà, Alella, Pla de Bages, Tarragona, Terra Alta, Costers del

Segre, Conca de Barberà, Montsant and Penedès. As we have seen,

the tenth, Priorat, is one of Spain’s only two DOCs (Denominación

de Origen Calificada), along with Rioja. Despite all its successes,

Catalonia is still far from realising its full potential, and there will

probably be many pleasant surprises to come over the next few years.

Here is an overview of each of these DOs, with information on a few

selected wine estates:

• PENEDÈSThis region south of Barcelona lies between the foothills of the

Serralada mountain range and the Mediterranean Sea. It is home

to the largest winemaking area in Catalonia, where vineyards

stretch across a broad coastal valley before climbing hillsides to

reach altitudes that are among the highest in Europe for

winegrowing. One of Catalonia's nine Denominación de Origen

(DO) regions, this 26,000-hectare winegrowing area is divided

into three zones: the upland Penedès Superior, the valley of the

Penedès Central and the lowland Penedès Baix. The average

planting density is 2,300-3,000 vines per hectare, although some

varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are trellised at up to

5,000 vines per hectare, resulting in lower yields but superior

quality. The majority of the region's vineyards are relatively

small, with most winemakers using their own grapes to produce

their wines.

SOME OF THE WINERIESAGUSTÍ TORELLÓ, ALBET I NOYA, MAS COMTAL, CAN BONASTRE, SUMARROCA, CAN RÀFOLS DELS CAUS,PARÉS BALTÀ, CORDONÍU


QUALITY FACTORS

SOME EXAMPLES OF DIFFERENTS SOILS

MAS VILELLA CELLARS

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FOCUS ON: JANÉ VENTURAThis winery, located in the Baix Penedès region, dates back to

1914, when Josep Jané first began selling his wine locally. In 1930,

his son Albert created the vineyard's first cellar. In turn, his son

Benjamí began bottling white and rosé wines in 1985, followed by

cavas in 1990 and red wines in 1991, with the aim of improving

quality. Two of his five sons, Albert and Gerard, today join

him in this goal, s t r iving to make unique, high-quality

wines that t ransmit thei r passion for their land and

their respect for the environment. The family owns two estates at

different altitudes in the Baix Penedès region. Each has a distinct

microclimate and terrain.

FINCA ELS CAMPS ESTATE This 8-hectare vineyard is located at an altitude of 450 metres near

the town of Juncosa del Montmell. The 16 small plots are planted

in terraces down a slope of loose calcareous soil: optimal

conditions for its Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo) and Macabeu grape

varieties. The vines of the latter are over 50 years old.

MAS VILELLA ESTATEThis 7-hectare vineyard lies at an altitude of 250 meters near the

town of La Bisbal del Penedès. The sandy calcareous soil supports

vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnatxa Negra (Grenache)

and Subirat Parent. The terrain is particularly harsh. When the first

Cabernet Sauvignon vines were planted in 1986, over 500 truckloads

of stones had to be removed from an area of 3.5 hectares.

continued on page 58

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QUALITY FACTORS


GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: What do you think

makes Jané Ventura wines stand out?

GERARD JANÉ : Above all, we aim to create unique wines. We believe

that one of the ways to achieve this is to work with traditional grape

varieties that faithfully reflect our terroir; these play an increasingly

important role in our winemaking. Alongside classic varieties such as

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, we are experimenting with

Macabeu, Xarel·lo, Subirat Parent, Garnatxa Blanca and Garnatxa

Negra, Carinyena (Carignan), Ull de Llebre and Sumoll, but we do not

rule out any varieties. We currently use Ull de Llebre as the base for

three of the four reds we produce. Our two whites and our cavas are

based entirely on traditional grape varieties. Experience has shown us

not to assume that a particular grape variety does not have the

potential to make a great wine until given the chance to do so.

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: With so many grape

varieties, how do you ensure quality?

GERARD JANÉ : In the lead up to harvest, we monitor each vineyard

closely to determine optimal ripeness. We consider each plot's

characteristics and make any necessary adjustments if the ripening

process has been irregular. We make the decision to begin harvesting

when the skin of the grape has reached maximum phenolic

ripeness. This is determined by tasting the skin as well as other

standard tests (for sugar, acidity, berry weight, etc). The first

stage of grape selection takes place in the vineyard. We believe

that this is the best place for selection, so we can judge the

appearance of the vine. If all the clusters have not ripened

consistently, we initially harvest only the grapes that are ready,

leaving the others to ripen fully. During the 2001 harvest at

Mas Vilella, three of us worked for eight days to separate some

2,000 kilograms of grapes, selecting them cluster by cluster.

All our grapes are picked by hand.

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: What is your

winemaking process?

GERARD JANÉ : The second stage of selection takes place just after

picking and is done manually in a small hopper. This allows us to

inspect the grapes closely, sorting them for quality and removing

leaves. During the 2001 harvest, three of us spent two hours sorting

1,000 kilograms of Subirat Parent grapes, removing each one that

had been pecked by birds! We believe it is essential to separate

grapes with different characteristics, and for this reason we use

small batches of grapes for winemaking, the average being 3,000

kilograms. During the 2002 harvest, we made wine from seven

different 500-kilogram batches.

Our winemaking process is aimed at expressing the character of our

vines to the fullest. To extract the full aromatic and phenolic elements

of the grape, we carry out pellicular maceration at cold temperatures

for our whites and employ a longer maceration period (25-40 days)

for our reds. Subsequently, in the phase prior to bottling, we filter the

wines carefully to remove any sediment while retaining the wine's

natural characteristics as much as possible.

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: How are your wines aged?

GERARD JANÉ : We believe that barrel ageing is very important as

it has such an influence on the final characteristics of the wine. We

use a variety of barrels and currently have more than 20 types

made by 10 or 11 different coopers. To choose the best cask for a

wine, we consider where the oak is from, how it was dried, how it

was toasted, etc. The majority of our casks are French oak (90%),

and the remainder come from Hungary and the United States.

Most are either new or one year old and we keep them for a

maximum of three years. We prefer new casks to better express

the characteristics of our terroir and achieve a balance between

complexity and elegance.

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: Finally, what can you

tell us about your cavas?

GERARD JANÉ : Our philosophy is that our cavas should be as

natural as possible: meaning that their character should derive

purely from the base wine and the ageing process. We do not add

any liqueur d'expédition - a wine/sugar solution - to 95% of our

cavas, only to our Cava Brut, at a ratio of 4 grams per litre. We do

not think that dosage with sweetened wine results in higher

quality or imparts greater character to a Cava. On the contrary,

using dosage liquor gives the cava flavours and aromas that are not

natural to it. Our belief is that the base wine and the yeast on their

own give the cava a more authentic taste.

We use three traditional grape varieties (Macabeu, Xarel·lo and

Parellada) to make our cavas, resulting in a sparkling wine with a

distinct personality that differentiates them from others around

the world. The minimum ageing period is 20-24 months for Brut

Nature and 30-42 months for our Gran Reserva.

Gerard Jané

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Interview with Gerard Jané Winery director, oenologist and fourth-generationwinemaker in the Jané Ventura family

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• COSTERS DEL SEGRE The Costers del Segre DO wine region spreads over more than

4,000 hectares across the valley of the River Segre in the Catalan

province of Lleida. Located further inland than most of

Catalonia's wine areas, its different sub-areas are subject to a

continental climate with significant temperature differences and

scarce rain. The region receives approximately 2,800 hours of sun

a year. The sandy, limestone soil is poor, however each sub-area

has variations in climate and soil. This diversity and the fact that

the DO is young (it was created in 1988) contribute to the fact

that it is now recognised as one of the most innovative and

upcoming of Catalan wine regions.

SOME WELL-KNOWN WINERIES

RAIMAT, CASTELL DEL REMEI

FOCUS ON: TOMÀS CUSINÉThis estate near the village of El Vilosell produces exemplary DO

Costers del Segre wines. It is located on the north face of the Sierra

de la Llena ridge at an altitude of between 700 and 740 metres. The

mainly calcareous and permeable soil and moderate climate create

ideal conditions for relatively late grape harvests that give the wines

their smooth tannins and intense colour.

In recent years, the winery has planted 29 hectares with Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Garnatxa, Carinyena,

Marselan, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, among other varieties.

It also buys grapes grown under its supervision from other vineyards

in the area. The vines are planted at a density of 5,000 vines per

hectare and trained on posts. The estate's philosophy is to conserve

traditional rural architecture and look after the countryside. Its first

harvest from its own vineyards was in 2006, producing very

encouraging results.


QUALITY FACTORS

• ALELLAThe smallest DO region in Catalonia, and one of the smallest

in Spain, Alella is situated 20 kilometres north of Barcelona.

The area has only around 500 hectares of vineyards. On the

coast, the appellation's climate is typically Mediterranean,

with hot and dry summers and mild winters. The average

annual temperature is 15ºC and it receives little rainfall

(around 600 mm per year), which occurs mainly in autumn

and spring. The vineyards stretch from the sea up the hillsides

of the coastal foothills.

Dry and semi-dry whites are the principal wines produced

here. The character of Alella whites is largely determined by

the Xarel·lo grape variety. They are soft, pale, elegant and

perfumed, with a pleasant palate. The region's rosés and reds

are also fragrant and well balanced.

WHITE VARIETIES: Pansa Blanca, Chardonnay,

Sauvignon Blanc, Garnatxa Blanca, Picapoll, Parellada, Macabeu

RED VARIETIES: Syrah, Merlot, Garnatxa Negra, Ull de Llebre,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Mataró, Pansa Vermella, Sumoll


PARTXET

• CONCA DE BARBERÀ This Catalonian DO extends over 9,000 hectares in northern

Tarragona. Grapevines may have been cultivated here by

Roman settlers and were certainly present by the time of the

monasteries founded in the Middle Ages. Its climate, history

and traditions all stamp their identity on the region's excellent

wines and cavas.

The climate here is transitional, between the mild

Mediterranean climate typical of Tarragona, given its relative

proximity to the sea, and the more extreme continental climate

of the Lleida region, with its cold winters and hot summers.

Lower altitudes are influenced by warm, humid sea winds, but

there is a risk of frost of higher altitudes. There is a noticeable

temperature difference between night and day. The annual

average temperature is 14ºC, with summer highs that can

exceed 35ºC, and winter lows that are frequently below 0ºC.

The annual rainfall is 450-550 mm, with most rain falling in

autumn and spring.


CLOS MONTBLANC, MIGUEL TORRES

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TOMAS CUSINE USE 225-LITRE FINE GRAINED FRENCH OAK BARRELS

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THREE WINES PRODUCED BY TOMAS CUSINÉ IN CATALONIA.

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GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: tell us about your estate?TOMÀS CUSINÉ : The estate is located on the north face of theSierra de la Llena ridge, at an altitude of 700 - 740 metres abovesea level. This area falls within the DO of Costers del Segre, andborders the province of Tarragona and the comarcas of Conca deBarberà and Priorat.

The different plots mainly lie on north and north-east facingslopes, with differing soil types and degrees of exposure. Theseare mainly calcareous soils, containing varying amounts of gravelthat have straightforward structures and tend to be fresh andlimey with a good degree of permeability.

The local climate is moderate, but with a large diurnal temperaturerange and with annual rainfall of 380 - 600 mm per year. Theseconditions guarantee gradual maturing with quite late grapeharvests that are responsible for the wines smooth tannins andvery intense colour.

GILBERT & GAILLARD WINE INTERNATIONAL: You've recently replantedsome plots; tell us about this, and the way you make your wines. TOMÀS CUSINÉ : In recent years, the winery has planted 29 hectaresof its land with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet

• EMPORDÀThis 2500-hectare DO region lies along the Costa Brava just south

of the French border. Empordà consists of two geographically

distinct areas: Alt Empordà, stretching from the Mediterranean up

the slopes of the Pyrenees, and Baix Empordà, along the coast to

the south. The sandy soil is ideal for winegrowing, and the sea

breezes and Tramontane, a strong northerly wind, keep the vines

disease-free. The mild winters and hot summers make it well

suited for relatively long growing seasons and grape varieties that

produce naturally sweet wines.

WHITE VARIETIES: Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeu,

Moscatel d'Alexandrie, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer,

Malvoisie, Muscat à Petits Grains, Picapoll,

Sauvignon Blanc, Xarel·lo

RED VARIETIES: Samsó, Garnatxa Tinta,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,

Monastrell, Ull de Llebre, Syrah, Garnatxa Peluda

Franc, Garnacha, Cariñena, Marselan,Chardonnay and SauvignonBlanc. The winery has also acquired grapes grown under itssupervision from other vineyards in the local area. 2006 was thefirst harvest from our own plantations, and the results areencouraging, leading us to strive constantly for increasing quality.

We have opted for obtaining degrees of maturity that maintain acareful equilibrium between the phenolic and acidic componentsof our wines. We thus avoid over-maturing our wines or producingexcessive levels of tannins, and ensure that our wines are elegant,complex, fresh and longer lasting.

At harvest, the grapes are collected in 200 kg boxes and refrigeratedbefore they are sorted. There is then a cold pre-maceration in tank,followed by a slow fermentation at a constant low temperature,with the aim of conserving both the rich taste of the fruit and thefreshness of the harvest.

Once taken from the vats, the wines undergo malolactic fermentationand are then aged in 225-litre, fine-grained French-oak barrelsthat are carefully chosen from the stock of leading barrel-makersas François Frères, Nadalie, Seguin Moreau, Demptos, Sylvainand Boutes.

Tomàs Cusiné

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Interview with Tomàs Cusiné-Winery director and winemaker

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TOMÀS CUSINÉ DEDICATED TIME AND EFFORT TO THE VINEYARDS


QUALITY FACTORS


OLIVER CONTI, ESPELT VITICULTORS, TERRA REMOTA

• MONTSANTPreviously a sub-appellation of DO Tarragona, the Montsant

wine region was created as a separate DO in the early 2000s.

Currently covering an area of 2,000 hectares, Montsant has

experienced spectacular growth over the last decade. When it

was created, it consisted of 28 wineries; it now has over 50.

Nearly 70% of Montsant's wine is exported, mainly to

Germany and the United States. The region is known for its

powerful reds, but white wines, rosés and sweet red wines are

also produced.


CELLER CAPÇANES, CELLER LAURONA,

CELLERS JOAN D'ANGUERA, MAS PERINET

• PLA DE BAGESOne of the smallest DOs in Spain, the vineyards of Pla de

Bages cover only 600 hectares in the fertile plain of the

semi-mountainous landscape that includes Montserrat,

northwest of Barcelona. Situated inland, the climate, although

influenced by the Mediterranean, has the significant temperature

variations of a continental climate. The extreme temperatures,

scant rain and calcareous clay soil result in the concentrated

grapes typical of lower yields. The wines have aromatic hints

of lavender, thyme and rosemary, the wild plants native to the

Mediterranean landscape surrounding the vineyards.

RED VARIETIES: Ull de Llebre, Merlot, Cabernet France,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Garnatxa Negra, Sumoll

WHITE VARIETIES: Chardonnay Macabeu, Picapoll,

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc


ABADAL, OLLER DEL MAS

• TARRAGONAThis long-standing - and upcoming - DO covers 7,300 hectares,

with vineyards extending inland from the Mediterranean coast

and across the small plateaus near the banks of the River Ebro.

It is divided into two principal sub-areas: Camp de Tarragona

and Ribera d´Ebre. The former has mainly calcareous soil from

the Miocene era and an essentially Mediterranean climate

with an annual rainfall of 500 mm. The Ribera d’Ebre region

has calcareous, stony, alluvial soil and is drier, with more

extreme seasonal variations. Traditionally known for its sweet

red wines, the region now produces a significant proportion

of whites as well as reds, rosés and cavas.

RED VARIETIES: Ull de Llebre, Carinyena, Merlot,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Sumoll, Garnatxa, Syrah, Pinot Noir

WHITE VARIETIES: Macabeu, Parellada, Xarel·lo, Chardonnay,

Moscatel de Frontignan, Moscatel d'Alexandrie, Sauvignon Blanc,

Garnatxa Blanca


DE MULLER, BODEGAS JM BACH

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WHITE VARIETIES RED VARIETIES

RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED• Garnatxa blanca o lledoner blanc • Samsó• Macabeu or viura • Garnatxa tinta• Moscatell of d'Alexandria

AUTHORISED AUTHORISED• Chardonnay • Cabernet sauvignon• Gewürztraminer • Cabernet franc• Malvoisie • Merlot• Muscat à Petits Grains • Monastrell• Picpoul Blanc • Tempranillo• Sauvignon blanc • Syrah• Xarel·lo • Garnacha Peluda

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FOCUS ON CATALONIA, SPAIN Catalonia has ten Denominación de Origen (DO) wine-producing regions. For many years,Catalonia’s viniculture was based mainly on its production of cava sparkling wine and whitewines from Penedès. However, the ongoing revolution in Spanish wine has not left this regionuntouched. Today, Catalan wines prove that its best winemakers are adept at retaining long-standing traditions while making innovations that constantly raise quality.

FACTS AND FIGURESIn 2009, 52 million bottles of wine from Catalan DOs were sold. The region's ten DOs are Pla Bages, Priorat,Empordà (Ampurdán–Costa Brava), Tarragona, Montsant, Penedès, Terra Alta, Alella, Costers del Segre andConca de Barberà. The generic appellation DO Catalunya was created in 1999 to encompass quality wine-makers who are outside of these specific DOs. This recognition has helped Catalan winemakers assert theirwine's singularity and excellence and has been key in changing the status of Catalan wine.

PRODUCTION AREACatalonia is situated in northeast Spain, between the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees. DO Catalunyaconsists of approximately 60,000 hectares of vineyards, many located near villages, where vineyardshave traditionally been cultivated.

GRAPE VARIETIESOver 2,000 years of winegrowing have endowed Catalonia not only with a wide range of traditionalvarieties, but also grapes from other regions that are well adapted to its soils and climate. DOCatalunya has 27 authorised grape varieties for winemaking. White varieties include: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Garnatxa Blanca, Gewürztraminer, Macabeu, Malvasia,Malvasia de Sitges, Moscatel, Parellada, Pedro Ximénez, Picapoll, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Xarel·lo Red varieties include: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Peluda,Garnatxa Tintorera, Merlot, Monastrell, Pinot Noir, Samsó (Carinyena), Sumoll, Syrah, Trepat, Ull de Llebre

VINEYARDSNewer vineyards are often trellised, using the Guyot or Royat pruning systems, but older vineyards still usetraditional spur pruning, leaving four to six two-bud spurs. The vines are typically plantedat a density between 1,800 and 4,500 vines per hectare, with an average of 2,500 vines per hectare, or3,000 vines per hectare in newer plantations. The maximum permitted production per hectare in DOCatalunya is 10,000 tonnes for red grape varieties and 12,000 tonnes for white grape varieties.

CLIMATEThe area has a Mediterranean climate and receives over 2,500 hours of sunlight per year. On the coast, theclimate is mild, with temperatures increasing and rainfall decreasing as you travel southwards. The inlandarea has a mixed continental and Mediterranean climate, with cold winters and very hot summers. Theannual mean temperature is around 14–15 ºC. Spring and autumn tend to receive the most rain, with 350mm per year falling in the driest areas, and more than 600 mm per year in the wettest.

QUALITY FACTORS


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QUALITY FACTORS

JANÉ VENTURA HAS TWO ESTATES IN THE BAIX PENEDÈS

TOMAS CUSINÉ-MACABEU 2009

• TERRA ALTAAs its name suggests, the vineyards of this DO in the far

southwestern corner of Catalonia grow on plateaus and valley

floors surrounded by jagged mountains.

The region was originally known for its

white wines, but today it produces a wide

selection of both traditional and foreign

grape varieties, and its red wines are receiving

increasing attention.

WHITE VARIETIES:

Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeu,

Parellada, Chardonnay,

Moscatel de Frontignan,

Moscatel d'Alexandrie,

Chenin Blanc, Pedro Ximénez,

Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier

RED VARIETIES: Ull de Llebre, Carinyena, Merlot,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnatxa Negra, Garnatxa Peluda,

Samsó, Syrah, Morenillo, Cabernet Franc


CELLER XAVIER CLUA, CELLER PIÑOL,

CELLER MAS BLANCH

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WHITE VARIETIES RED VARIETIES

RECOMMENDED RECOMMENDED• Garnacha blanca • Garnacha negra

• Moscatel de Frontignan • Garnacha peluda

• Parellada • Samsó (Carinyena)

AUTHORISED AUTHORISED• Chardonnay • Syrah,

• Moscatel de Frontignan • Merlot

• Moscatel de Alejandria • Cabernet sauvignon

• Chenin blanc • Tempranillo

• Pedro Ximénez • Cabernet franc

• Sauvignon blanc • Garnacha tintorera

• Viognier • Morenillo

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California • Oregon • Washington

USA DOES TERROIR!BY RICHARD CRAIG

US

A

Despite all this, wine consumption in the US has risen to 9.7 litresper capita and this figure has been increasing gradually for the last15 years. This is due to the adoption of wine in early adulthoodby the large millennial generation, the availability of qualitywine at all price levels, the acceptance, by many, that moderatewine consumption is compatible with a healthy lifestyle, and theincrease in sustainable and organic producers.

Wine imports from Europe, Australasia and South America haveremained static and it has been the domestic producers,principally in California, Oregon and Washington, that havestepped up to the plate to increase their market share.

Currently, 44% of the USadult population does notconsume alcohol, and

25% of the remainder enjoys beer andspirits, not wine. We are currentlylocked into a prolonged period ofrecession or at the very best, very sloweconomic growth, where disposableincome is declining and the anti-alcohollobby, parts of the medical profession andsome politicians are also determined

to make it as difficult as possible to sell wine responsibly.

With domestic consumption of American wines never greater, we take a look atthe country’s major wine regions of California, Oregon and Washington.

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Richard Craig

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CALIFORNIA

California produces 90% of all US wine.There are 2,972 wineries, 4,600 grapegrowers, 531,000 acres of wine grape-growing vineyards, producing 3.7 milliontons of fruit, selling 197 million cases ofwine to the U.S market.

If California was a single country, it wouldbe the fourth largest wine producer in theworld behind France, Italy and Spain. Ithas 93 of the 168 AVAs (AmericanViticultural Areas) established by theBureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearmsto help promote the specific qualities of

IF CALIFORNIA WAS A SINGLECOUNTRY, IT WOULD BE

THE FOURTH LARGEST WINE PRODUCER IN THE WORLD

BEHIND FRANCE, ITALY AND SPAIN

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of grapes. The vineyard name, To Kalon, comes from the Greek

meaning “the highest good” and was the source of Beaulieu

Vineyards legendary Georges de Latour wines, made by the famed

winemaker André Tchelistcheff. Paul seized on this rare opportunity

to work with this historic site and to continue the tradition of fine

winemakers on this vineyard.

American vineyards. Unlike most other appellation of originsystems, AVAs do not delimit the type of grapes grown, themethods of vinification or the crop yield, allowing theAmerican vintner the freedom to be at the forefront of qualitywine production, and for change and innovation to occur rapidly,unconstrained by reams of bureaucracy and regulations.

Kathleen Inman of Inman Family Vineyards, Russian River Valleyis an example of such innovation. She is at the cutting edge oforganic and sustainable practices in the vineyard and the winery,using an organic fertilizer called Four-Course Compost, derivedfrom table scraps at high-end San Francisco hotels and restaurants,worm cast teas and organic pesticides. Along with many otherquality vintners, she rightly claims that her wines are createdin the vineyard and not in the winery.

Paul Hobbs was one of the first Californian Winemakers to focus

on single vineyard wines and he now either owns or works with

the owners very closely, across 10 vineyards in Napa and Sonoma.

His Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in Napa is planted to

three clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was originally planted in

the mid 19th century and at the time was known as the best source

PAUL HOBBS FOCUSES ON SINGLE VINEYARD WINES

CALIFORNIA HAS 531,000 ACRES OF WINE GRAPE-GROWING VINEYARDS

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WASHINGTON STATE

Washington is the second-largest wine region with more than32,000 acres of vines, across 11 AVAs with more than 650wineries producing 160,000 tons of grapes.

Yakima Valley was the first AVA to be created in 1983 andColombia Valley is the largest. At 11 million acres it representsone third of Washington State’s land mass. Fortunately,smaller AVAs such as Red Mountain, Yakima Valley,Rattlesnake Hills, Horse Haven Hills and Snipe Mountain areincluded within the boundaries of the Colombia Valley AVA.One wonders why Colombia Valley has an all-encompassingAVA at all, given the number of smaller AVAs in the region.Quality Washington producers include Andrew Will Winery,Facelli Winery, Fall Line Winery, Snoqualmie Winery, NorthStar, Apex Cellars, 37 Cellars, Rainier Ridge, Tagaris Winery,Tanjuli, Walla Walla Vintners, Woodward Canyon Winery andYakima River Winery.

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Snoqualmie Wines are made by Joy Andersen with the help ofoenologist Meryl Rickey. Snoqualmie was one of the firstWashington wineries to craft wines from USDA-certifiedorganically grown grapes. 378 acres are currently certified anda further 133 are in the process of certification. Her vines aregrown on their own root stocks, and are phylloxera-free. Sheplants pesticide-free cover crops to reduce soil erosion.

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WASHINGTON IS THE SECOND- LARGEST WINEREGION WITHMORE THAN32,000 ACRES OF VINES

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OREGON STATE

Oregon’s wine region has 16 AVAs and covers 19,400 acres. Itcontains 387 wineries and produces 40,200 tons of grapes, ofwhich over half are Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is king with 11,523acres in production in 2009, followed closely by Pinot Gris at2,829 and interestingly, only 583 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Willamette Valley is the major AVA, 150 miles long and 60 mileswide. It runs from the Colombia River in Portland, south throughSalem to the Calapooya Mountains outside Eugene. It has 200wineries with 12,000 acres of wine grapes. Within WillametteValley AVA, six sub-appellations have been identified: DundeeHills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Yamhill-Carlton District, and the recently approved Chehalem Mountains.

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OREGON’S WINE REGION COVERS 19,400 ACRES

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QUALITY FACTORS

In 2007, after 25 years at the helm,

Rex Hill Winery founders Paul

Hart and Jan Jacobsen decided to

retire. Rather than selling to a big

wine conglomerate, they handed

the keys to another Oregon family-

owned winery, A to Z Wineworks,

under Bill and Deb Hatcher, Cheryl

Francis and Sam Tannahill. Rex

Hill’s top vineyard is called Jacob-

Hart, after the founders. It is located

on a warm, south-facing slope of

Chehalem Ridge, and the fruit

from this 27 acre vineyard - 95%

Pinot Noir - is harvested a week or

two before other Rex Hill Vineyards. The soils are both vol-

canic and sedimentary. In places it is so rocky that the vines

were planted using a pickaxe and a shovel and it cannot be farmed

with a tractor. The wines are created in the vineyard using organic

and sustainable practices. This is true terroir…

Other quality producers to look out for include Elk Cove

Vineyards, Erath Vineyards, Ponzi Vineyards, Beaux Frères,

Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, and Scott Paul Wines.

There is huge variation and diversity in the site, topography,

soil and climate of the 163 AVAs, which this article cannot go

into in detail. However, it is clear that the producers of high

quality wines work with the land and the vines. Wine is

indeed made in the vineyard. Every plot of land, row of vines

and individual grape has been studied to the Nth degree.

Viticulture and vinification have developed rapidly to create

wines of truly world class quality. Sustainable viticulture has

had a huge part to play in the quality programme and it is no

coincidence that the best wines of the nation come from wineries

and vineyards that are seriously adopting these practices and

indeed, going further.

The future is bright for the US wine producers as quality is on

the rise. The market for quality wine in China and the Far East

is being satisfied to a large extent by France and then

Australia. The Americans need to be there too. Exports and

indeed domestic sales need to be encouraged, not the oppo-

site, by the authorities at local, national and international

levels for the preservation of the environment, not to mention

the balance of payments.

WINES SCORE PRICE

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA SSAANNTTAA BBAARRBBAARRAAANDREW MURRAY Roussanne/Marsanne Camp 4 Vineyard 2009 86/100 £16.7760% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne (Santa Ynez Valley)

ANDREW MURRAY Syrah Tous les Jours 2007 86/100 £11.9795% Syrah, 5% Grenache (Santa Barbara/Paso Robles)

ANDREW MURRAY Esperance 2007 83/100 £16.7770% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre (Paso Robles/Santa Ynez Valley)

OJAI VINEYARDS Sauvignon Blanc 2009 87/100 £17.35 McGinley Vineyard

OJAI VINEYARDS Syrah 2007 89/100 £16.27

OJAI VINEYARDS Syrah Hawk Vineyard 2005 92/100 £21.47

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA SSAANNTTAA LLUUCCIIAA HHIIGGHHLLAANNDDSS

MORGANChardonnay Double L Vineyard 2007 89/100 £23.52

MORGANPinot Noir Double L Vineyard 2007 90/100 £30.19

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA CCEENNTTRRAALL CCOOAASSTT MARMESA CABRILLO PEAK Pinot Noir 2007 89/100 £12.95

MARMESA CABRILLO PEAK Cerro Romauldo Syrah 87/100 £8.25

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA MMOOUUNNTT HHAARRLLAANNCALERA DE VILLIERS Pinot Noir 2007 86/100 £22.94

CALERA RYAN Pinot Noir 2006 89/100 £25.48

CALERA MILLS Pinot Noir 2000 90/100 £37.23

CALERA JENSEN Pinot Noir 2000 93/100 £48.00

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WINES SCORE PRICE

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA SSOONNOOMMAA MMOOUUNNTTAAIINNLAUREL GLEN Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 86/100 £16.77DELICATO FAMILY Vineyards Brazin Zinfandel, 84/100 £22.93Monte Rosso Vineyard 2007 CLAY STATION Late Harvest Viognier 2008 37.5cl 89/100 £11.47

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA NNAAPPAA VVAALLLLEEYYCORISON Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 92/100 £41.64FORMAN Chateau La Grande Roche 2007 86/100 £19.61FORMAN Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 87/100 £39.68BACIO DIVINO Prazzo 2007 90/100 £20.6874% Sangiovese, 8% Syrah, 6% Petit Syrah,6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% ViognierBACIO DIVINO Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 87/100 £47.02Merlot, Sangiovese, Petit Syrah, Syrah PHILIP TOGNI Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 83/100 £28.91PHILIP TOGNI Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 94/100 £60.63 MICHAEL MONDAVI Emblem Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 86/100 £23.03 MICHAEL MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon, Orso Vineyard 2006 90/100 £40.95 M BY MICHAEL MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 94/100 £193.90STAGLIN FAMILY Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 87/100 £44.29 STAGLIN FAMILY Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Salus 2008 90/100 £52.90STAGLIN FAMILY Vineyard Cabenet Sauvignon 2006 94/100 £98.92

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA RRUUSSSSIIAANN RRIIVVEERR VVAALLLLEEYY INMAN Pinot Gris 2008 88/100 £16.18INMAN Pinot Noir 2006 92/100 £19.90

S C O R E S A N D R E T A I L P R I C E SWINES SCORE PRICE

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA DDRRYY CCRREEEEKK VVAALLLLEEYYDRY CREEK VALLEY The Mariner 2006 92/100 £25.61

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32%Merlot,

8% Malbec, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot

DRY CREEK VALLEY Somers Ranch Zinfandel 2007 92/100 £18.00

CCAALLIIFFOORRNNIIAA AANNDDEERRSSOONN VVAALLLLEEYYROEDERER ESTATE Quartet Brut NV 90/100 £18.21

70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir

OORREEGGOONNA TO Z WINEWORKS Riesling 2007 90/20 £10.21

A TO Z WINEWORKS Chemin de Terrre 2006 89/100 £10.40

44% Merlot, 17.5% Cabernet Sauvignon,

17.5% Syrah, 9% Cabernet Franc, 6% Sangiovese,

4% Grenache, 2% Pinot Noir

REX HILL VINEYARDS Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2008 89/100 £17.35

WWAASSHHIINNGGTTOONNCHARLES SMITH Wines Columbia Valley Eve Chardonnay 2008 89/100 £9.52

CHARLES SMITH Boom Boom Syrah 2008 86 /100 £11.77

99.5% Syrah, 0.5% Primitivo

CHARLES SMITH Chateau Smith 2007 86/100 £13.54

96.5% Cabernet Sauvignon 3.5% Malbec

K VINTNERS K Syrah Clifton Vineyard 2008 93 /100 £23.03

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Cabernet, Bordeaux, Malbec: which wine is most popular right now in New York?That’s hard to determine in a city with 508 wine shops and 240 wine bars (andcounting). How do you identify a trend in a city of eight million souls living infive diverse boroughs, where 170 different languages are spoken? The task isdaunting. If there seems to be a fondness for red wines downtown, uptownappears to have developed a soft spot for whites. That is, uptown, not as in theUpper West Side: uptown as in Harlem.


NEW YORK LIFE

T he gentrification of Harlem hasseen upmarket wine stores andwine bars springing up in the

neighbourhood at a frenetic pace overthe last eight years. Courvoisier andHennessy cognacs have been popularfor some time with New York’s African-American community, but today a newtrend is on the rise, for Côtes du Rhôneand Shiraz wines. This growing taste forwine is still in its early stages. Like anynewcomers to wine, the concepts ofbouquet, tannins, structure and acidityare in development, so most drinkersaren’t yet setting their sights on a 2005Château Cos d’Estournel or a 1993Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru LesDemoiselles.

So which wines are most popular inHarlem? I visited two wine stores tofind out: Harlem Vintage and TheWinery. These specialist vintners aregiving wine a new and welcomeaccessibility in the neighbourhood. Inanswer to an enquiry about what ispopular with her clientele outside ofdomestic wines, Jai Jai Greenfield,co-owner of Harlem Vintage, explains,“The mindset of most of our customersis wines from South America, Australia -even South Africa. France is there, butmost people are very focused on New

range. Many customers choose based onprice … a lot of people ask for the cheapestwine.” The Winery carries some 300wines, but the subtler ones are a hardersell. “People like big, full-bodied wineslike Malbec and Cabernet. Also, freshwines like Sauvignon Blanc; VinhoVerde is extremely popular here.” Interms of buyers’ regional preferences,

Harlem’s wine renaissance

World wines” She adds, “Organic isvery big. They are very interested inorganic wines.”

GW Gant Luxton of The Winery, whichis located in the heart of ‘LittleSenegal”, an area with many Africanimmigrants, says price is also an issue.“Between $9 and $12 is a popular price

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GANT LUXTON OF THE WINERY: “MANY CUSTOMERS CHOOSE BASED ON PRICE”

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NEW YORK LIFE


Luxton says, “Wines from North andSouth America are very popular. In theFrench section, customers tend to find afavourite and stick with it: for example,C ô t e s d u R h o n e o r a f f o r d a b l eBordeaux. They also love sweet wines.”

Some names stand out. California’sHacienda Chardonnay with its typicalbuttery taste is a favourite (under $9).The Sicilian 2008 Emperor Nerod’Avola (under $11) with its smoothtannins and notes of blackberry andplum is also very popular. Other top

tannins and acidity. They gravitatemore toward dinner wine as opposed tosipping wine.”

Both stores offer weekly tastings toeducate their customers’ palates andexpand their wine knowledge. To giveaficionados another way to experiencewine, Harlem Vintage has also openeda sleek and contemporary wine bar nextdoor : Nectar . Al though the twoestablishments share some of the sameclientele, Nectar tends to attract a youngercrowd that likes to drink wine when

sellers are Argentina’s 2009 TiliaMalbec (under $11), redolent of blackfruits and spices with soft tannins, andthe Italian wine Cantina GabrieleDolcemente 2008.

The wine sellers note that the trends areseasonable. “In the summer, Harlemitesare looking for very fresh, light, lively,zippy wines,” explains Greenfield ofHarlem Vintage. “Last summer wefocused on Riesling, and this year onSauvignon Blanc and Portuguese VinhoVerde. As we move into fall and its heartierand richer meals, our customers arelooking for wines with more structure,

they go out, but may not buy it to drinkat home. “At Nectar, you can experimentwithout having to buy a bottle unsureof what you’re going to get,”explainsGreenfield. “That’s the essence of awine bar - it’s somewhere you can go tosample. Customers are encouraged totest things they might not otherwisehave tried.”

Pascal Giberné

The Winery 257, West 116th Street (at 8th Avenue)New York, NY 10026Tel: +1 212 222 [email protected]

Harlem Vintage 2235, Frederick Douglass Blvd (at 121st Street)New York, NY 10027Tel: +1 212 866 9463www.harlemvintage.com

Nectar 2235, Frederick Douglass Blvd (at 121st Street)New York, NY 10027Tel: +1 212 961 9622 www.nectarwinenyc.com [email protected]

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ERIC WOODS AND JAI JAI GREENFIELD OF NECTAR

AND HARLEM VINTAGE

THE WINERY IS LOCATED IN THE HEART

OF “LITTLE SENEGAL”

JAI JAI GREENFIELD OF HARLEM VINTAGE: “IN THE SUMMER, HARLEMITES ARE LOOKING FOR VERY FRESH,

LIGHT, LIVELY, ZIPPY WINES”

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EXPORT

The United States: a growing market for wine

must sell to a distributor, who then must sell to a retailer, and

only retailers can sell to end customers. There are more than

10,000 importers, but 55% of the imports are controlled by

only seven companies: WJ Deutsch & Sons, Foster’s Group,

Banfi Vintners, E & J Gallo Winery, Palm Bay International,

Constellation Brands and Shaw-Ross International Importers.

These importers all focus on brands. There are some specialist

importers, such as Stacole Fine Wines, DB Wine Selection,

Frederick Wildman & Sons, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant and

Martine’s Wines, that focus on smaller estates.

The story is similar on the distribution side: 50% of the

volume is distributed by seven companies: Southern Wine &

Spirits, Charmer Sunbelt Group, Republic National

Distributing Company, Glazer’s, Young’s Market Company,

Wirtz Beverage Illinois and Martignetti. The majority of wine

(around 70%) is sold through the off-trade retail channel,

with supermarkets and clubs (eg Costco, Walmart and Trader

Joe’s) accounting for 55% of sales, and wine shops (Total

Wine & More, ABC and Spec's) accounting for 45%.

Supermarkets tend to have a small selection of wine with

well-known brands such as Yellow Tail, Arrogant Frog and

Concha y Toro, whereas specialty wine stores offer customers

a wider choice. In the latter, 70% of the wines are domestic,

but you also find French wines from family estates, such as

Domaine Roux Père & Fils, Domaine Manuel Olivier, Château

de Fontenille, Château Patache d’Aux, Château Bonnet,

Château Sainte Barbe, Château Liversan, Château Larose

Trintaudon, Château Bertinerie, Domaine Galevan, Château

du Cèdre, Château Jolys and Lionel Osmin & Cie. Most of

these retail for under 20 dollars.

The internet currently represents around 5% of the market,

but is growing rapidly. In the on-trade market (eg, bars and

In 2008, 4.4 billion 750-ml bottles of wine were sold in the United States. Of these,around 80% were domestic (mainly from California, Washington, Oregon andNew York) and 20% were imported.

A lthough the United States is one of the top

wine-producing countries in the world, its annual

wine consumption is only around 9 litres per

person, which is less than in most European countries,

Australia and Argentina. However, with a population of 308 million,

the US market is the world's second largest, a ranking that is

set to continue since wine consumption is on the increase.

US law on imported alcohol, including wines, is very strict. It

is based on a 'three-tier' distribution system (the three tiers are

producers/importers, distributors and retailers). The importer

Pierre Courdur ié

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EXPORT


ALTHOUGH THE UNITED STATES IS ONE OF THE TOP WINE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD, ITS ANNUAL WINE CONSUMPTION IS ONLY AROUND 9 LITRES PER PERSON

restaurants), restaurants represent around 25% of sales.

Despite the growth potential of the US market, French wines

remain difficult for US customers to understand. French wine

has a traditional, historical, perhaps even stuffy, image and

can intimidate customers who perceive it as a premium

product. Even if customers are knowledgeable about varietals

(eg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay,

Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier), the fact that French AOC wines

do not indicate the grape varieties on the bottle's front label

makes choosing a French wine a rather esoteric art.

The impact of the recent economic crisis on the US wine trade

has been a decrease in the price, but not in the volume sold.

Instead of buying wines with a 20 dollar retail value, customers

are buying cheaper wines, under 15 or 10 dollars. As a result,

French wines are suffering on the US market. Although

importers say that France offers the best-value wines, French

wines are up against the low production costs of wines from

Chile and Argentina. This has led to a decline in the US market

share of French wines from 21% in 2001 to 12% in 2008.

Nonetheless, although the short-term situation is not easy, a

longer term outlook indicates positive signs for French wines

in the United States. The progressive establishment of

American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) to designate the geographical

area of a wine may aid American consumers to better

understand the French appellation system. Also, US customers

are very open to new discoveries and to tasting different

wines. Most importers claim that once customers taste a good

wine and find out more about the winemaker, a link can be

created. But as in making a fine wine, building this relationship

will take time...

Pierre Courdurié

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FAMILY BUSINESS

“In 1892 André Villepigue, Manoncourt’s grandfather, bought

Figeac, which has subsequently been passed on through the

female side of the family,” continues d’Aramon.

Figeac is at the far west of the Saint-Emilion appellation close to

Pomerol. Its soil is gravel and sandy, which is why it is planted

with an atypical proportion of grape varieties. Whereas much of

Saint-Emilion is dominated by Merlot, Figeac’s 40 hectares of

vines are planted with 70% Cabernet - half Franc, half Sauvignon -

as it is particularly suited to gravel and just 30% Merlot.

D’Aramon arrived at Figeac in 1988, which was

already Thierry Manoncourt’s 41st consecutive

vintage. “Thierry Manoncourt’s first vintage was

actually 1943,” explained d’Aramon. “He returned to France

from Germany where he was a prisoner of war when his grand-

mother died. He then went to Paris to study at the INA (Institut

National Agronomique) before returning to Figeac in December

1946. From 1956 Thierry Manoncourt has lived full time at the

property. In those days it was unusual for an estate’s proprietor

to be in situ and adopt such a hands on approach.”

It must have been daunting for d’Aramon to follow on in the

footsteps of Manoncourt. “In 1989 I went off to study winemaking

and tasting at the Faculty of Bordeaux. I took over the commercial

side in 1992 but was not really in charge of the wine until 1995.”

“The two most important things I have learnt from my father-

in-law is his knowledge - knowing how to approach things,

where to look for information and who to ask - and, although

he is directive, he has allowed me make mistakes, so that I can

learn. Often they are mistakes that he had also made and he’ll

point me to a wine from the 1950s for example where he had a

similar problem.”

Prior to the 19th century Figeac was a very large estate with a

settled ownership. It then went through a very rocky period

with seven changes of ownership in 50 years and various parts

of the estate were sold off - most notable being the sale of

Cheval Blanc in 1838.

INTERVIEW OVER WE TASTE THE 2000 VINTAGE

Château Figeac: a hard act to follow

www.chateau-figeac.com

When Comte Eric d’Aramon married Laure Manoncourt, he swapped the worldof yogurt for the world of wine. Understandably he remains delighted with thechange. “Tasting wine is way more interesting than tasting yogurt!” he says.

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FAMILY BUSINESS


“During my time in charge,” explains d’Aramon., “the wines

have evolved - a process of evolution rather than revolution.

After all it was the same for Thierry Manoncourt - the style of

wine he made changed over time: 1959 wasn’t the same of 1947

and 1975 was different again. Wine adapts to new consumers

and to new ways of drinking wine.”

“Today fine bottles of wine are drunk in less formal occasions.

People drink a glass of good wine before going out for the evening.

There is less fine dining in the traditional French manner.

Now it is less serious and subdued - more convivial. Our

wines have to be more fruity and ready to drink sooner - people

no longer want to lay wines down for 15 years. But our aim is

to continue to make elegant wines with finesse that have the

capacity to age.”

Interview over, we taste the 2000 vintage. “Not quite ready,”

observes d’Aramon. Perhaps not but it certainly shows the silky

texture and elegance that d’Aramon and Manoncourt worked

together to achieve in Figeac.Jim Budd

FIGEAC IS AT THE FAR WEST OF THE SAINT-EMILION APPELLATION. ITS SOIL IS GRAVEL AND SANDY,WHICH IS WHY IT IS PLANTED WITH AN ATYPICAL PROPORTION OF GRAPE VARIETIES

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Thierry Manoncourt died peacefully at his home on 27th August

just a few days before his 93rd birthday. He remained actively

involved in Figeac and its wine up until his death. Had he lived,

2010 would have been his 63rd consecutive vintage. It is rare

even in wine, known for the longevity of some of its producers,

for someone to make or be involved in over 60 vintages.

Manoncourt was one of the grand old characters of Bordeaux -

widely respected and loved. “He was one of the last of his kind

in Bordeaux. Always polite and welcoming and he spoke the

most perfect French,” said John Salvi MW.

It was characteristic of Manoncourt that his request to have

Figeac promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé (A) to join

Ausone and Cheval Blanc was rejected not on the grounds of

quality but because he did not charge enough for his wine.

Manoncourt wanted people to be able to drink and enjoy Figeac

rather than it being a trophy bottle locked in a vault.

(The above article is based on an interview with Comte Eric

d’Aramon a few days before Thierry Manoncourt’s death.)

THIERRY MANONCOURT: 22ND SEPTEMBER 1917- 27TH AUGUST 2010

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FAMILY BUSINESS

Jacques Beaujeau - Château la Varièreand Domaine de la Perruche: From generation to generation

Jacques Beaujeau knew when he was just six years old

that he would be a vigneron. His father was tragically kil-

led by a friend in a hunting accident and he was brought

up by his grandfather.

”My maternal grandfather was called Georges Martin and he told

me after my father died that I would succeed him. The family had

been vignerons in Champs-sur-Layon since the Revolution. My

grandfather had 35 hectares of vines. My father’s family were also

vignerons - they had vines at La Fosse-de-Tigné, close to Tigné.

“My grandfather Georges taught me the importance of terroir,

in particular getting to know your vineyards and soil really well.

I learnt viticulture from him and the need to look after and respect

the vines.”

All of the Beaujeau vineyards are grassed over in the centre of the

rows with weedkiller used under the vines. “This may change in

the future,” explains Beaujeau. “We are always considering what

changes we should make, so in the future we may harrow under

the vines.”

“I took over at Château la Varière, which has been owned by my

wife Anne’s family since 1850, in 1970. We regrouped all the

production here with around 45 hectares of vines.”

Since then Anne and Jacques Beaujeau have more than doubled

the size of the vineyards in Anjou. They now have 100 hectares

of vines including holdings in Bonnezeaux and Quarts de

Chaume. In addition in 2002 they bought the 45-hectare

Domaine de la Perruche in Montsoreau, which has 42 hectares

of Cabernet Franc for Saumur-Champigny and 3 hectares of

Chenin Blanc for Saumur.

This year will be Beaujeau’s 40th vintage at the immaculately-

kept Château la Varière, which is just across the road from the

imposing renaissance Château de Brissac. With its gravelled

driveway and beautifully-kept barn and other outbuildings this

estate is one of the showpieces of Anjou. The property dates

from the 15th century and the barn, one of the oldest buildings,

serves as the red wine barrel chai, while a slightly more recent

building is used for the whites - dry and sweet.

Château la Varière makes the customary range of Anjou wines in

all three colours including a very good Anjou Villages La

Chevalerie from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. “At Varière we have

65 hectares of Cabernet including 15 of Cabernet Sauvignon,”

explains Beaujeau, “then 5 hectares each of Gamay and

Grolleau, and 30 of Chenin Blanc. Our annual production from

the Domaine de la Perruche is around 250,000 bottles and

600,000 from Varière.

In 2004 their daughter Marie joined them. Her studies were

not in wine but instead in literature and included time at

Cambridge University in the UK. Marie is working on the

commercial side of the business with her mother. Her

responsibilities include going to wine fairs such as the

recent Vinexpo in Hong Kong.

“Most of our sales are in France - about 80-85% are here. Our

main export markets are Belgium, the UK and the USA, while

China is a growing market,” says Beaujeau.

www.chateaulavariere.com

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FAMILY BUSINESS


Marie is now also studying viticulture and

vinification. “Like many women she is a

very good taster,” says Beaujeau.“ In

addition to her studies I gave her a vineyard

to plant, so Marie had to make all the

decisions: what variety to plant, what

rootstock etc. She chose Cabernet Franc.”

Jacques Beaujeau reflects briefly and then

adds: “It is my dearest wish that she will

take over from us.” Jim Budd

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“MY GRANDFATHER GEORGES TAUGHT ME THE IMPORTANCE OF TERROIR, IN PARTICULAR GETTING TO KNOW YOUR VINEYARDS AND SOIL REALLY WELL”

Jacques Beaujeau

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FAMILY BUSINESS

Famous amongst Latour wines is their

Corton-Charlemagne, and the business

has an excellent reputation as a traditional,

Burgundy-based, négoçiant-éléveur.

However, in more recent times the company

has branched out and now makes

wine in the Ardèche and Coteaux

de Verdon regions of southern France.

The Latour family’s involvement with

wine can be traced back to 1731.

Owners of vines in the Côte de Beaune,

they settled in the village of Aloxe-

Corton in 1768, buying up vineyards in

this famous appellation and gradually

establishing a large domaine, acquiring

parcels of Corton “Clos de la Vigne au

Saint", "Bressandes", "Grèves" and

Aloxe-Corton "Les Chaillots.”

In 1797 Louis Latour created his brokerage business and in

1867, he purchased premises in Beaune where the company is

still based; it was in 1891 that the Latours acquired Château Corton

Grancey, the jewel in their crown.

Shipper and owner of premium vineyards, the third Louis Latour

provided wine for nobility including the Thurn-und-Taxis

family, the court of Bavaria and the future King of Bulgaria. At

the turn of the century these prestigious clients were replaced by

luxury hotels and restaurants including the Hotel de Paris in

Monte Carlo, Geneva's Le Beau-Rivage and the Ritz in Paris.

From the mid 1800s onwards Maison Latour sold wines far and

wide, from Buenos Aires to Bucharest. The wines were delivered

in barrel until the end of the 19th century, and subsequently in

Founded in 1797, Maison Latour

is one of the area’s key players,

producing around eight million

bottles of wine per annum.

Renowned worldwide for the quality of

its wines, the company has acquired its

reputation over more than two centuries.

Viticulteurs since the 17th century, the

Latours slowly accrued a unique estate

of 50 hectares, including the largest holding

of grand cru vineyards in the Côte d’Or

appellation. The vineyards stretch from

Chambertin in the north to Chevalier-

Montrachet in the south, and are planted

with two noble Burgundian grape varieties,

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay; these

grapes are vinified and aged in the

winery of Château Corton Grancey, in Aloxe-Corton.

Louis-Fabr ice Latour

Keeping it in the family

THE LATOUR FAMILY’S INVOLVEMENT WITH WINE CAN BE TRACED BACK TO 1731

www.louislatour.com

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Wine certainly flows in the Latour family veins. Run today by the seventh generation,Maison Louis Latour is a grower, merchant and producer based in Burgundy’s Côtede Beaune region.

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FAMILY BUSINESS


bottle; the labels, designed by Louis Latour, have remained

unchanged.

Catastrophe struck when the vineyards of France were almost

completely destroyed by phylloxera, which spread rapidly from

1860 onwards. Louis Latour replanted the devastated vineyards,

but it was his son, the young agricultural engineer Louis-Noël

Latour, who distinguished himself by stating that the grafting of

Pinot Noir onto resistant American root-stocks would produce

wines of high quality.

More recently, in a quest for modernization, the sixth Louis

Latour built new facilities on the outskirts of Beaune and set

up sister companies in London and New York, while Maison

Latour has pioneered the production of fine wines outside the

confines of Burgundy, growing Chardonnay in the Ardèche

(350 kilometres south of Beaune) since the 1980s and Pinot

Noir in the Var département since 1989.

The company celebrated its bicentenary in 1997, passing into the

hands of Louis-Fabrice Latour two years later. An unwritten Latour

family rule stipulates that each generation must bequeath

something new to the next. Forty-five year-old Louis-Fabrice’s

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RENOWNED WORLDWIDE FOR THE QUALITYOF ITS WINES, THE COMPANY HAS ACQUIRED ITSREPUTATION OVER MORE THAN TWO CENTURIES

FOUNDED IN 1797, MAISON LATOUR IS ONE OF THE AREA’S KEY PLAYERS, PRODUCING AROUNDEIGHT MILLION BOTTLES OF WINE PER ANNUM

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children are still young, but their father has already made a

significant contribution to the business by purchasing the

Simonnet-Febvre (Chablis) and Henry Fessy (Beaujolais) estates,

thus strengthening the Latour presence throughout Burgundy.

When the time comes, his legacy will be more than two

hundred years’ devotion by one family to the fruit of

Burgundy’s greatest vineyards.Louise Hurren

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The presentation of the food owes nothing to chance: the chefconsiders that enjoying a meal, just as preparing it, is an art. "Iwork on everything: I cut, I peel, I cook, I season, I braise, I singe.I try to feel the vibes of the vegetables. I am totally intoxicated bytheir colours and scents".

NO MISUSE OF FLAVOURS!The watchword is: no misuse of flavours! Passard selects andthen masters the raw material by purifying and refining,focusing on its essential features. This recipe, marked by itssimplicity, is a perfect illustration of Alain Passard’s art,arising from authentic flavours and diverse ingredientsjudiciously combined to delight your palate


WINE AND FOOD

Alain Passard’s culinary creations have the mystery ofpoetry and the simplicity of an enigma. He declareshimself a "sculptor of fire" who excels in finding

the exact heat, from gentle to searing, that a food requires. Thechef readily admits that his first approach to a fresh vegetableis visual, by observing its appearance and colour. "Mauve,yellow, mother-of-pearl, celadon green, orange - the coloursgive me inspiration. I build on that bit by bit. The cookingtechnique comes after".

L’Arpège is Alain Passard’s workshop, where his raw materials arevegetables, fish, poultry, herbs and spices. The chef isn’t interestedin innovation for its own sake. He creates a few new recipes eachyear, enough to stay creative, while letting previous dishes live on.

Alain Passard: putting emotioninto cooking

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RECIPE


L'Arpège 84, rue de Varenne - 75007 Paris

Individual or group booking: Tel.+33 (0)1 47 05 09 [email protected]

Open from Monday to Friday for lunch and dinner.No valet

BEST WITHProvence rosés,

particularly from Bandol

Onion Gratinwith Parmigiano Reggiano

Ingredients (serves 4):

● 2 sweet onions (eg. “Oignon

doux des Cévennes”).

● 40 gr of salted butter

● grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

● black ground pepper

Method:

Mince the onions.

Let them smoke in the salted butter in a pan without

colouring (approximately 3 minutes).

Then divide it in four small gratin dishes. Put them

under a grill with grated parmesan cheese and pepper

during approximately 3 minutes.

Serve immediately.

BANDOL A.C.

La Cadiérenne - Cuvée

Grande Tradition rosé

2009Light pink. Intense nose of citruswith a mineral edge. On thepalate, fullness, freshness and length are noticeablefeatures. A wine that shows its class. A gastronomicrosé, ideal with Mediterranean fish.

85/100The Gilbert & Gaillard

Wine InternationalSelection is:

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FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

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Why do we talk about Rhône Valley wines as if the region were uniform, comparableto Burgundy, Bordeaux or Rioja? Apart from the river that shapes its slopingvineyards, there are few similarities between the northern and southern Côtes duRhône. Some 100 kilometres separate the two winegrowing areas, but that's not theonly difference. The geology, climate and the style of wines vary considerably.


WINE QUOTATIONS

Rhône wines - a class of their own

LevelBN base of neckSL slightly lowTS top shoulder TS (-) top/mid shoulder MS mid shoulderLS low shoulder

LabelSD slightly damaged FD fairly damaged HD highly damaged

PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THENICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGE

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Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com

There is one aspect that unites the wines of the RhôneValley: the extreme pleasure they bring in drinkingthem. I love these wines. The stars of the north are

Hermitage and Côte Rôtie. In the south, Châteauneuf-du-Papeand, to a lesser extent, Gigondas. The former are virtuallysingle varietal wines made from Syrah. They are big, rich andelegant, with an intense bouquet of blackcurrant, focused andmade to last. The latter are blends of up to thirteen grapevarieties. They are full-bodied, generous, rich and can be keptfor a long time. It is said that these wines can be aged for25–30 years, and sometimes for much longer.

THE VINTAGES The best vintage years before 2000 are: 1945, 1949, 1961, 1978,1985, 1990 and 1998.

THE BIG NAMESIn the northern Rhône, Marcel and Philippe Guigal, Jean-LouisChave and the houses of Chapoutier and Jaboulet. In thesouthern Rhône, the estates of Beaucastel, Rayas, La Nerthe, LaMordorée, Clos des Papes, Vieille Julienne and Bonneau.Several years ago, Patrick Brunel of Château de la Gardine inChâteauneuf-du-Pape gave me the honour of inviting me todiscover some of the estate's older bottles: 1986, 1984, 1979,1978, 1969, 1962 and 1952. All the wines were still excellent,and the 1978 was extraordinary: rich, fat, soft, perfect. The 1952vintage (a year that is dear to me), though slightly dulled, wasstill nuanced and voluptuous.

Philippe Roux

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WINE QUOTATIONS


RRHHÔÔNNEE VVAALLLLEEYY WWIINNEESS

YYEEAARR CCHHÂÂTTEEAAUU AAPPPPEELLLLAATTIIOONN RRAANNKK VVOOLL PPRRIICCEE VVAATT EEXXCCLL..

1943 BOUCHARD AINE ET FILS Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 188.13

1947 BOUCHARD AINE ET FILS Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 165.55

1950 BERARD PERE ET FILS Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 165.55

1964 NAIGEON Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 79.43

1967 DU PELOUX Gigondas 0.75 l 57.69

1971 CHANTE PERDRIX Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 66.05

1973 GARDINE (LA) Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 62.71

1977 JABOULET (PAUL) AINE La Chapelle Hermitage 0.75 l 137.96

1978 JABOULET (PAUL) AINE La Chapelle Cote Rotie 0.75 l 132.94


1985 GUIGAL La Landonne Cote Rotie La Landonne 0.75 l 811.04

1985 GUIGAL La Mouline Cote Rotie La Mouline 0.75 l 835.28

1987 GUIGAL La Turque Cote Rotie La Turque 0.75 l 250.00

1988 GUIGAL La Landonne Cote Rotie 0.75 l 542.64

1988 MONT THABOR Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 35.12

1988 MONT THABOR Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 35.12

1989 CHAVE (JEAN-LOUIS) Rouge Hermitage 0.75 l 333.61

1990 GUIGAL Hermitage 0.75 l 107.86

1990 RAYAS Blanc Chateauneuf du Pape Réservé 0.75 l 222.41



1994 GUIGAL La Turque Cote Rotie 0.75 l 246.66

1994 GUIGAL La Mouline Cote Rotie 0.75 l 275.08


1995 GUIGAL La Turque Cote Rotie 0.75 l 333.61

1995 RAYAS - PIGNAN Chateauneuf du Pape Réservé 0.75 l 158.03

1996 NERTHE (LA) Les Cadettes Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 62.71



1997 REMIZIERES Cuvée Emilie Hermitage 0.75 l 74.41

1998 JANASSE (DE LA) Vielles Vignes Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 82.78

1998 NERTHE (LA) Les Cadettes Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 82.78

1998 RAYAS Rouge Chateauneuf du Pape Réservé 0.75 l 238.29

1999 CHAVE (JEAN-LOUIS) Blanc Hermitage 0.75 l 141.30

1999 FONT DE MICHELLE Chateauneuf du Pape 0.75 l 49.33





2000 CHAVE (JEAN-LOUIS) Blanc Hermitage 0.75 l 166.39



2000 MORDOREE Magnum Chateauneuf du Pape Magnum 1.50 l 208.19

Cuvée de la Reine des Bois

2000 VILLARD FRANCOIS La Brocarde Cote Rotie 0.75 l 63.55

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Nearby, don’t miss the town of Jarnac, the heart of Cognac

production, where many of the most famous Cognac houses are

located (including Thomas Hine & Co, Delamain and

Courvoisier). Jarnac also happens to be the birthplace of

another famous French leader (this one, of the 20th century),

François Mitterrand.

Travel south to the delightful village of Segonzac, at the centre of

the acclaimed appellation of Grande Champagne with its sea of

grapevines punctuated by Romanesque churches. Here you will

find top-name Cognac houses such as Frapin, with its elegant

Château de Fontpinot surrounded by 300 hectares of Cognac

premier cru vines. Not far away is Salles d’Angles, a very pleasant

village where you should not miss stopping by the estate of Patrick

Drouet to taste his remarkable Pineau des Charentes (fortified

wine) and Cognacs.

Alternatively, if you prefer to let someone else organise your visit,

we have created a programme with our partner Wine Tour in

France so you can simply sit back and take it all in!

Gilbert & Gaillard Wine International


TRAVEL

The exceptional brandy known as Cognac is the product

of an extraordinary wine-growing region north of

Bordeaux. The area is not home to just one Cognac, but

many, each with its own distinctive style arising from the skill of

its producers, its specific terroir and the blending art of its master

taster - these all play a role in creating this most heavenly of

spirits. A visit to the home of Cognac in lush and peaceful

Charente is the key to revealing its secrets.

To give honour where honour is due, it is necessary to start with

this wine-growing region’s capital, the medieval town of Cognac.

There is much to discover in this charming and historic town: its

slow-moving river, the vital artery that so contributed to the

town’s economic development, described by King Henri IV as the

loveliest river in his kingdom, to the narrow cobbled streets and

richly decorated buildings of this birthplace of King François I.

Scattered around the town, you will find world-famous Cognac

houses, each outdoing the next with their impressive sites and

captivating guided visits. The town is lovely by day and by night,

with its fine restaurants, market, museum of art and history, town

hall and gardens.

A visit to Cognac country

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TRAVEL


For further information,please contact us:

WINE TOUR IN FRANCEwww.gilbertgaillard.com

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FRANÇOIS RABELAIS, CHINON’S MOST FAMOUS SON, WAS BORN NEARBY AND HIS FAMILY ONCE OWNED THE CLOS DE L’ECHO,

CHINON’S BEST-KNOWN VINEYARD


REGION

These are Touraine’s three top appellations with Bourgueil and Chinonproducing some of the world’s greatest pure Cabernet Franc wines, and Vouvraysome of the greatest Chenin Blancs. All three are among the oldest appellationsin France: Vouvray was recognised in December 1936, while the other two hadto wait until July 1937.

The big three: Bourgueil, Chinon and Vouvray

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Chinon and Bourgueil, along with neighbouring

Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny

a little further west, form the heart of the kingdom

of Cabernet Franc. There is nowhere else in the world that

produces the same volume and quality of pure Cabernet Franc.

Although Bordeaux is Franc’s birthplace the reds are invariably

blends and it is rare to find Cabernet Franc as a majority

component. Château Ausone and Cheval Blanc are two rare and

distinguished exceptions to this rule. Cabernet Franc is one of

the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a permitted variety

in both Chinon and Bourgueil but only up to 10%. In practice

the vast majority of the wines are pure Franc, which ripens

earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon and so is better adapted to a

region at the northern limits of successful red wine production.

Cabernet Franc is less powerful and tannic than Cabernet

Sauvignon, with greater delicacy and finesse. When ripe, Franc

has lovely aromas of violets, red and black fruits, and

sometimes coal tar. Picked unripe, it can be aggressively stalky

with harsh aromas of unripe capsicum.

Bourgueil and Chinon share a diversity of soils - sand, gravel andlimestone - making three different styles of wine, the lightest

coming from sandy soils and the most structured and long-livedfrom the limestone slopes. Top wines from good vintages benefitfrom being kept for a good four or five years and should easily last25 with exceptional vintages such as 1964, 1989 and 2005continuing to drink well even longer.

These are versatile reds. None should be served at more than18°C. The lighter cuvées should be served chilled, especially insummer, and are ideal for summer lunches and picnics. They canalso be delicious with fish.

AC CHINONChinon tends to be better known than Bourgueil, especially inEnglish- speaking countries as it is easier to pronounce. Chinonalso tends to be softer and less tannic when young than Bourgueil.Furthermore it has the advantage of a close association withFrançois Rabelais, Chinon’s most famous son, who was bornnearby and whose family once owned the Clos de l’Echo,Chinon’s best known vineyard, as well as having a picturesquetown nestling between the château and the River Vienne.

There are 2400 hectares in production. Of these, just some 35 areplanted with Chenin Blanc-making dry whites, which should be

THE VERY FAMOUS "CLOS DU BOURG" (AC VOUVRAY), WHICH BELONGS TODOMAINE HUET, ONE OF THE BEST OF THE APPELLATION

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planted on clay-limestone rather than gravel soils. Otherwise redwines dominate, although around 10% of the production is rosé.The appellation stretches from Crouzilles in the east to Savigny-en-Véron in the west and both banks of the River Vienne, althoughthe majority of the vineyards are sited on the north bank. Thecommune of Cravant-les-Coteaux accounts for some 40% of theappellation’s vines.

Around Savigny-en-Véron, close to the confluence of La Loire and

the Vienne, the soils are very sandy and much of the Chinon from

here is for early drinking. The gravel soils, which tend to produce

medium-bodied wines, are on the flat valley floor of the Vienne.

Most producers have vines on at least two of the different types of

soil and make a number of different cuvées to reflect this. Take

Philippe Alliet, for instance. From his original gravel vineyards on

the flat Philippe makes his Domaine and Vieilles Vieilles. These

are Alliet’s lightest wines, although being Alliet these can be as

structured as many top limestone cuvées from other producers.

Then from the steep south-facing, clay-limestone slopes he has

Coteau de Noiré and l’Huisserie.

Some leading producers: Philippe Alliet, Bernard Baudry,

Baudry-Dutour, Château de Coulaine, Couly-Dutheil, Pierre and

Bertrand Couly, Domaine Charles Joguet, Domaine de la Noblaie.

AC BOURGUEILThe vineyards of Bourgueil run in a great, south-facing arc from

Saint-Patrice through to Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. They are less

sheltered than those of Chinon and this may be one reason why

the wines tend to be a little more tannic when young - why they

tend to be more ‘masculine’, and those of Chinon more

‘feminine’. The Bourgueil vineyards are protected from north

winds by forests to the north.

There are 1400 hectares of vines planted across eight communes

from Saint-Patrice in the east to Chouzé-sur-Loire in the west.

Some 5% of the production is rosé. Although a small proportion

of the vines are planted on sandy soils close to the Loire, most of

the vineyards are on the gravel terrace, which is intersected by the

main road from Saint-Patrice to Saint-Nicolas and then on the

limestone coteaux. As in Chinon, producers tend to make a

number of cuvées that correspond to the different soils and the

different ages of the vines.

Just at the top of the limestone coteaux before the start of the

forest, there are a series of remarkable caves cut into the tuffeau

(local limestone). Often they would have been where the local

stone was quarried to build houses. Now they serve as ideal places

for the vignerons to age their best cuvées and to store their wine.

Some leading producers: Yannick Amirault, Audebert, Domaine

de la Butte, Domaine de la Chevalerie, Jean-Jacques Druet, Lamé

Delisle Boucard, Nau Frères.

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THE VINEYARDS OF TOURAINE START IN BLOIS AND STRETCH ALL THE WAYTO THE OUTSKIRTS OF SAUMUR

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AC SAINT-NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL This appellation is the western continuation of Bourgueil, with

around 1080 hectares in production. Although Saint-Nicolas has

a higher proportion of its vines planted on gravel, there are also

vineyards on the limestone coteaux. The differences between

producers are greater than those between the two appellations. The

story goes that when the appellations were created the then Mayor

of Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil insisted that his village deserved its

own appellation. Here only 2% of the production is rosé.

SOME LEADING PRODUCERS: Yannick Amirault, Francis and

François Jamet, Frédéric Mabileau, Mabileau-Réze (Vignoble de la

Jarnoterie), Joël Taluau and Thierry Foltzenlogel, Gerard Vallée.

AC VOUVRAYTop Vouvray is one of the world’s great white wines, with bottles

from exceptional vintages almost immortal, having a capacity to

age for 100 years or more.

Vouvray is on the northern bank of the Loire just to the east of

Tours. It is at the eastern limit for producing great wine from

Chenin Blanc. There are 2000 hectares of vines in production

across seven communes. Chenin Blanc is the principal grape

variety, although Menu Pineau is also allowed but in practice is

little used.

The appellation centres on Rochecorbon and the small town of

Vouvray with vineyards that face due south. To the east of Vouvray

the vineyards turn to the north east following the course of the

River Brenne by the villages of Vernou and Reugny. The most

famous producers, however, are at Vouvray, usually with vineyards

on the première côte overlooking the Loire.

The climate in Vouvray is noticeably more continental than in

Bourgueil and Chinon, even though they are only some 45

kilomtres further west. During the winter it is quite common to

find snow in Vouvray but none in Chinon, as the temperature is

several degrees higher. Bud break and flowering occurs later here,

meaning that, while it is possible to produce sweet wines virtually

every year in Anjou, it is only possible in Vouvray in favourable

vintages.

Some 65% of Vouvray is sparkling of variable quality with only

35% still wine, although the appellation’s high reputation is largely

attributable to the still wines. Part of the attraction is that yields of

65 hl/ha are allowed for sparkling wines, whereas it is only 52

hl/ha for still. There is also a reduced risk as the grapes can be

picked earlier. The most interesting sparkling wines tend to be the

pétillants, a local Touraine speciality with only 2,5 atmospheres of

pressure, compared to around 5 for fully sparkling.

Vouvray can vary from being bone dry to lusciously sweet,

depending upon the vintage and when the grapes are picked. This

range of styles can be bewildering, especially if the producer

doesn’t indicate the level of sweetness on the label. Demi-sec is the

most classic style.

It does, however, mean that Vouvray can be paired with a wide

range of dishes. The sec as an aperitif, with fruits de mers, grilled

fish or with charcuterie; demi-sec again as an aperitif, but it will

also match fish in a cream or butter sauce as well as scallops, pork

and chicken dishes plus various cheeses. Moelleux, if not too rich,

will match blue cheeses as well as foie gras. Pairing even the

sweetest Vouvray with desserts can be difficult. Fruit desserts can

work but most other desserts, especially chocolate ones, should be

avoided. A sweet Vouvray, especially one with some age, is best

enjoyed on its own at the end of a meal.

Montlouis on the south bank of the Loire is obliquely across from

Vouvray. A much smaller appellation (370 ha), it produces a similar

range of wines from vineyards that stretch from the Loire

southwards to the Cher Valley.

SOME LEADING VOUVRAY PRODUCERS: Domaine des

Aubuisières, Philippe Foreau, Didier and Catherine Champalou,

Château Gaudrelle, Domaine Huet, François Pinon.Jim Budd

BOURGUEIL AND CHINON PRODUCESOME OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST

PURE CABERNET FRANC WINES

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This region’s winemaking has come a long way with very

little help: it lacks large estates, and there are only three

wine cooperatives, all dating from after 1950. Viticulture

is a long-standing tradition in the Cher Valley, but until recent

decades it was carried out by small, individual producers making

everyday wines from hybrid grape varieties - for example, Oberlin,

Terrasse, Meslier and Seibel - planted after the phylloxera

outbreak. The low-price ordinary and sparkling wines were traded

through a merchant who distributed mainly to local consumers.

A REGION IN TRANSFORMATIONA visitor to the region today would find it difficult to imagine this

quite recent past. The vineyards are still omnipresent, in places

offering magnificent views over the Cher Valley. However, the

In Touraine, part of the Loire Valley wine region, vineyards stretch almostcontinuously over the hillsides along the River Cher from Chenonceaux toNoyers-sur-Cher. Overhanging the river, the vines gently follow theundulating landscape. It is a little-known winemaking area whose assertivewines hold some very pleasant surprises.

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hybrids have disappeared, replaced by noble grape varieties such

as Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet, Pinot Noir and

Pineau d’Aunis (Chenin Noir).

Tasting rooms have appeared in villages to showcase the work of

dynamic family-run vineyards inviting you to discover their wines.

Modern wine facilities are being constructed to replace narrow

and inconvenient cellars carved out of the local tuffeau limestone,

and winemakers are investing in high-performance equipment

such as refrigerated stainless steel tanks and pneumatic wine

presses. In Bourré, the estate of Domaine Levin has even ordered

a purpose-built wine storehouse from Australia.

Alongside this progress, environmental issues are not absent from

winemakers’ concerns. Sustainable viticulture (indicated by the

label Terra Vitis) and organic winegrowing have many followers

here. The valley’s organic winemakers (Didier Barrouillet of Clos

Roche Blanche, Bruno Allion and around 20 others) have founded

an organisation that holds a show the first weekend of each

December where organic winemakers can share their experiences

and present their wines for tasting.

SPOILED FOR CHOICE?Today, a visitor needs time to discover the diversity of wines in theregion. Each winemaker offers an impressive range: Sauvignon(some make up to three different types of Sauvignon), Gamay, Cot(Malbec), Cabernet, blended reds, occasionally Pinot Noir, andsparkling Touraine Brut (recently rebaptised under the enticingname ‘Fines Bulles de Touraine’). The Sauvignons, with theircharacter, subtlety and diversity, are unquestionably the most

AOC TOURAINE IS IRRIGATED BY THE LOIRE AS WELL AS THE RIVER CHER,ONE OF THE LOIRE’S MAIN TRIBUTARIES

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remarkable, with a special mention to La Voûte from DomaineJoël Delaunay, which we willingly rank among the grand cru ofCoteaux du Cher.

However, certain winemakers should take care not to overdo thecurrent trend of leaving a bit too much residual sugar in theirwines, claiming that the British market prefers it. In our opinion,this detracts from the wine’s freshness and expression. As for thereds, the results are more uneven. The wines are likeable, earthyand fragrant, but have a rustic character. There are of courseexceptions, such as the Pinot Noirs, which were a pleasantsurprise. Our favourite was the 2007 Pinot from Claude Duguet’sLe Chai des Varennes located in Thésée.

But might this diversity, seemingly positive, be a handicap for theregion? Given the modest means of the largely family-runvineyards, will they be able to make the progress required intoday’s competitive market as well as offer six, seven or even tentypes of wines as different as Sauvignon, rosé Pineau d’Aunis, Cot,Gamay, Cabernet and sparkling Touraine Brut?

A NEW SUB-APPELLATION“TOURAINE-CHENONCEAUX”IN VIEWIf the Cher Valley wants to reach the heights of which it is capable,

perhaps it would be worth its top producers concentrating on

fewer grape varieties: definitely Sauvignon, for which the region’s

clay and sandy silex soil and limestone subsoil are ideal; as well as

Pinot Noir, which, even if it currently makes up only a small

percentage of the valley’s grapes, seems to us to offer very

promising results. With the creation of a regional AOC ‘Touraine

Coteaux du Cher’ or ‘Touraine-Chenonceaux’ under discussion,

these steps would help to give the region a strong identity and

bring it the attention it deserves.

François Gilbert & Philippe Gaillard

SOME WINEMAKERS TO WATCH:

BRUNO ALLION

41140 THÉSÉE

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 75 21 63

This winemaker in his fifties

was for many years a member

of the Oisly wine cooperative.

A long-standing convert to

organic and biodynamic

winemaking, today he sells the

vast majority of his harvest to

organic winemakers in the

region and uses the rest to

make his own wines. Bruno is

hardline about additives -

you’ll find no sulfites in his wines. “Volatile acidity is natural to

wine,” he declares with a mischievous smile. “Sulfur is not.”

SAUVIGNON – A NEWCOMER

This grape variety, which made the fortunes of winemakers in

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, is currently in vogue in the Cher

Valley. Yet Sauvignon was not grown here until after World

War II, perhaps because its yield per hectare was considered

too low compared to the predominant hybrids of the time.

(Another name for Sauvignon, Surin, is said to have come

from a comment made by a sceptical neighbour to one of the

first winegrowers who planted it: “Elle sue rin ta vigne” -

‘Your vines produce nothing’ in the regional dialect.) Guy

Gaillard, a Châtillon-sur-Cher winegrower who is today

retired, was the first to grow Sauvignon here in 1955.

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DOMAINE DU HAUT PERRON

41140 THÉSÉE

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 71 48 01

Cédric Allion runs this 26-

hectare vineyard near the

village of Thésée. Since 2001 he

has been equipped with

modern winemaking facilities

that allow him to take excellent

advantage of his terroir, which

is cultivated using sustainable

agriculture. Alongside grapes

from his own estate, he buys in grapes and sells the wines he

produces under the trade name Guy Allion.

DOMAINE JOËL DELAUNAY

48 LA TESNIÈRE

41110 POUILLÉ

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 71 45 69

This 50% Sauvignon 23-hectare vineyard planted near the village

of Pouillé is cultivated by Thierry Delaunay who took over from

his father Joël. Today Thierry runs the estate with an eye to the

future and is developing many new projects. He has been

practicing sustainable agriculture for many years and recently

acquired three hectares that are cultivated organically. He exports

around 40% of his wine.

DOMAINE DES ELÉPHANTS

19 ROUTE DES ÉLÉPHANTS

41400 MONTHOU-SUR-CHER

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 71 32 08

Since 2006, the young winemaker Guillaume Boucher, now aged

22, has been in charge of this 30-odd-hectare vineyard, of which

24 hectares are planted with Sauvignon. Although the majority of

the grapes are entrusted to the winemaking cooperative in nearby

Oisly, Guillaume also makes his own wines from part of his

harvest. Keep your eye on this estate …

CLOS ROCHE BLANCHE

19 ROUTE DE MONTRICHARD

41110 MAREUIL-SUR-CHER

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 75 17 03

This 18-hectare vineyard run by Catherine Roussel and Didier

Barrouillet has been dedicated to organic cultivation for 15 years.

Didier Barrouillet, who studied chemical engineering, knows

what he is talking about. He is passionate about technology,

winemaking and organic methods, which he employs to make his

wines. The vinification takes place in a cave carved from tuffeau

limestone, a cellar that is best suited for small equipment such as

30-hectolitre stainless steel tanks and 13-hectolitre wooden vats.

His motto: “If my wine resembles my neighbour’s, that means

there is a problem. We haven’t succeeded in capturing the

expression of our terroir.” This estate produces Sauvignons and

also red wines.

CLAUDE DUGUET

LE CHAI DES VARENNES

5 IMPASSE DES VARENNES

41140 THÉSÉE

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 71 48 43

Claude Duguet cultivates around 20 hectares near the village of

Thésée. Aided by his son, who has decided to take over when the

time comes, he produces several whites (an AOC Touraine

Sauvignon and a Vin de Pays Chardonnay) but his speciality is

reds: Gamay, Cabernet, Cot and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noirs are

particularly appealing. The estate also deserves a special mention

for the very reasonable prices of its wines.

DOMAINE MICHAUD

20 RUE LES MARTINIÈRES

41140 NOYERS-SUR-CHER

TEL. +33 (0)2 54 32 47 23

Working his vineyard since 1985,

Thierry Michaud now cultivates 25

hectares in Noyers-sur-Cher and

Monthou-sur-Cher. Today he is one

of the most respected winemakers in

the region. Extremely knowledgeable

about his terroir, which is cultivated

using sustainable methods, he

benefits from modern equipment

that allows him to get the most out of his harvest. The price of his

wine is also very attractive.

AND ALSO…

Domaine Levin

Bourré (41400) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 32 92 49

Domaine Desloges (Père et Fils and Cyril Desloges)

Monthou-sur-Cher (41400) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 71 41 54

Château de La Presle (Jean-Marie Penet)

Oisly (41700) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 79 52 65

Domaine Jean-Christophe Mandard

Mareuil-sur-Cher (41110) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 75 19 73

Domaine Charbonnier

Châteauvieux (41110) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 75 49 29

Château de Chenonceau

Chenonceaux (37150) Tel. +33 (0)2 47 23 44 07

Alain Courtault - Thésée (41140) Tel. +33 (0)2 54 71 50 97

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T he aptly-named region of Piedmont shares its

mountainous borders with France, Switzerland and the

Italian provinces of Valle d’Aosta and Liguria. Only its

eastern border with Lombardy opens onto the gently sloping Po

Valley. Historically, Piedmont played a key role in the creation of

the new kingdom of Italy. It came under the aegis of Rome in the

early days of the empire, and was in turn occupied by the

Lombards, Francs and then the House of Savoy. In the 18th

century, the state of Savoy owned the whole of what is now

Piedmont, which was also part of the French empire during the

Napoleonic era. Shortly afterwards, popular rebellions and

uprisings led to the unification of Italy. Even though the capital

was established in Florence in 1865, and then finally in Rome in

1870, the first parliament of the united Italy sat in the

Piedmontese town of Turin (Torino) in 1861. Since the western

part of Piedmont is too mountainous for the cultivation of vines,

the vineyards developed to the south-east of Turin. The hills,

which occupy about one third of this rich region, are in fact well

There is so much to say about Piedmont that it would fill an entire book. It is first andforemost one of the most prestigious wine-producing regions in Italy. With forty-threeDOC wines and seven that have obtained the higher DOCG quality grading, it isabove all renowned for its relentless pursuit of quality, and has the highest densityof top-quality (primarily red) wines.

PiedmontA PREMIER LEAGUE VINEYARD

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18-20°C with braised beef in red wine, ground game (civet of

hare) and seasoned cheeses. The best producers include Angelo

Gaja, Ceretto, Pio Cesare, Carlo Boffa, Prunotto and Ca’ Bianca.

Barolo (DOCG): Barolo is a wine that invites connoisseurs to

discover the Italian vineyard of which it is one of the finest

vintages. You have to walk among the vines, above the village of

Castiglione Falletto, to fully appreciate this truly exceptional

vineyard whose well-exposed slopes and chalky clay soils suit the

Nebbiolo grape down to the ground. It is easy to see why Barolo

has always occupied an important place in Italy’s viticultural

history. However, modern producers, while respecting this

tradition, are adapting new techniques to a heritage that is

respected throughout the world. Whether the grapes come from

La Morra, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba or Castiglione Falletto,

winegrowers are turning these differences to good effect, in spite

of the traditionalists who oppose any attempt to “lighten” and


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suited to vine growing. From the hills of Monferrato, on the right

bank of the River Po, to the Langhe hills, crossed by its tributary

the Tanaro, a judicious combination of natural elements produces

such wines as Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo d’Alba.

PROPHETIC WORDSThe words of Angelo Gaja - a producer as generous as he is

intransigent - may help readers to better understand the

philosophy that reflects a reality where tradition and the pursuit

of quality are not incompatible: “The Barolo and Barbaresco

regions lie on the gently sloping Langhe hills surrounding the

town of Alba. The combination of the soil (calcium-rich clay) and

climate (relatively cool continental, often wet and misty) favours

the production of these exceptional wines. The name of the grape

variety (Nebbiolo) used to produce both the Barolo and

Barbaresco wines, is in fact derived from the word nebbia which

means fog or mist in Italian. The region is also renowned for its

white truffles, its hazel trees and its beef. Like the history of all the

major wine-growing regions of Europe, the history of Langhe is

marked by years of experimentation with a view to achieving the

best combination of cultural practices and regional potential.”

But we mustn’t forget all the other wines produced with the

Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Brachetto, Muscat, Grignolino and

Cortese grapes. Whether they come from Monferrato, Langhe, the

Asti region or much more northerly areas, the environment is

often the same, with more or less well-exposed slopes. The

climatic conditions are very similar, only the grapes are different.

Evidently, their charm forms an integral part of a truly remarkable

regional wine list.

PROFILE OF THE PRINCIPALWINES OF PIEDMONTBarbaresco (DOCG): made from the Nebbiolo grape, this is

undoubtedly one of the best and most elegant of all Italian wines.

Its area of production lies to the east and on the slopes opposite

the town of Alba, around the villages of Barbaresco, Treiso and

Neive. The soil is predominately chalky clay and the best vines are

found on the hillsides, at an altitude of between 250 and 400

metres. Barbaresco has certainly never been better than it is today,

and its consistent quality cannot be stressed enough. It has a deep,

intense colour and its fruity and flowery (violets) aromas develop

to produce a complex bouquet of spices, woodsmoke, liquorice

and occasionally chocolate. The wine is tannic, concentrated, well

structured and has a good acid base. The quality and balance of a

good Barbaresco can be recognised in its strength, depth and

length on the palate, as well as its fineness and elegance. After

being matured for 4 years, it can be classified as a Riserva. Serve at

THE BARBERA GRAPE IS CULTIVATED ON THE WELL-EXPOSED

HILLS AROUND ALBA AND THENEIGHBOURING VILLAGES

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“modernise” the style of their wines. Barolo has something to suit

every taste - the key is to leave it for a few years in order to fully

appreciate, among other things, the rich aromatic palette of this

magnificent wine. It has a beautiful, intense garnet-red colour

with pale orange reflections, even when young. The flowery

(violets, faded roses), fruity (ripe fruits, jam) and spicy (nutmeg)

aromas are transformed as it matures into a rich and complex

bouquet of tobacco, woodsmoke and leather. It is a well-

constituted wine with a good tannic structure, good acidity and a

flavour of pepper, and sometimes liquorice, on the palate. It has

an ageing potential of between 10 and 20 years. It make an ideal

accompaniment for red meats garnished with a seasoned sauce

(fillet of beef au poivre or served with white truffles), winged

game (salmis of wild duck) and ground game (haunch of

venison). Ceretto, Conterno, Vajra, Domenico Clerico, Pio Cesare,

Voerzio, Borgogno, Fontanafredda and Poderi Colla are some of

the best producers.

Nebbiolo d’Alba (DOC): with Barolo and Barbaresco, this wine

makes up the trinity associated with the famous Nebbiolo grape.

It is produced in the area of Alba and the surrounding villages.

Although less well-structured and simpler than its two illustrious

colleagues, Nebbiolo d’Alba is more affordable and easier to serve

as an accompaniment. It has a more or less intense ruby-red

colour and fruity and flowery (violets) aromas. It is tannic and

fairly full-bodied, with a lot of fruit on the palate and an acidity

that creates an overall balance. Serve at 16-18°C with marinated

beef (served with salad, mushrooms and white truffles), osso

bucco, grilled, roasted and sautéed red meats, and spaghetti with

a meat sauce.

Barbera d’Alba (DOC): The occasionally underestimated Barbera

grape is cultivated on the well-exposed hills around Alba and the

neighbouring villages. However, when the yields are reasonable,

Barbera d’Alba is particularly attractive - a meal in a local trattoria

will prove the point! The wine is robust and tannic, with good

acidity. It has a beautifully intense, rich red colour, with aromas of

very ripe fruit (blackcurrants, blackberries). Serve at 18°C as an

accompaniment for cannelloni, lasagne, grilled, roasted and

sautéed red meats, and on winged and ground game. Two other

Barbera DOC wines are also worth mentioning: Barbera d’Asti and

Barbera del Monferrato.

Gattinara (DOCG): in 1991, this wine from northern Piedmont

was awarded the ul t imate qual i ty grading: DOCG

(Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Made

mainly from the Nebbiolo (known locally as Spanna) and

Bonarda grapes, in recent years it has benefited from certain

improvements, both on the vine and in the winery. Several

producers are still doing their utmost to invest it with the qualities

worthy of its status and origins. The wine has an intense garnet-

red colour and flowery aromas. It is tannic, fleshy and lively, with

an aftertaste of spices and a slight bitterness to finish.

Gavi or Cortese di Gavi (DOCG): the chalky and chalky-clay soils

of this part of Upper Monferrato seem ideally suited to the

cultivation of the Cortese grape since it forms the basis of several

wines, the best known of which is undoubtedly Gavi. It should be

recognised that, in a region devoted to the production of primarily

red wines, this white wine stands up well and deserves its place at

table, especially when it is developed in a slightly more modern

way by conscientious producers. Always white, it is attractively

tinged with straw-yellow reflections and has a slightly vegetal nose

with a touch of citrus fruit (a hint of lemon). It is dry and not

particularly acid. Serve at 8-10°C with seafood, grilled fish and

fish à la meunière (trout with herbs), egg noodles with butter,

parmesan and white truffles, and dry goat cheese.

THE FAMOUS NEBBIOLO GRAPEWHICH IS USED TO MAKE

THE EXCELLENT WINES OF BAROLO AND BARBARESCO

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Nestling between Liguria, Emilia-Romagna, Marche,

Umbria and Latium, Tuscany is a seaboard province

that occupies a privileged position in north-western

Italy. Thanks to its geographical location, the region enjoys natural

conditions that are ideally suited to the agriculture that covers half

its territory. Everywhere on the hillsides, vines and olive trees

combine to create the beauty and harmony of the Tuscan

landscape. Cypress trees border the little roads leading to a fattoria

(farm or vineyard); vines and olive trees often grow on the same

plot, offering passers-by a foretaste of the flavours that grace the

region’s tables.

A REGION RICH IN HISTORYTuscany derived its name from the Etruscans, a people who lived

in the region in the 6th century BC. The Romans referred to the

inhabitants of what was then Etruria as Tusci and their country as

This beautiful region tells the history of Italy, the history of wine growing - orquite simply history - on a bend in the road or in the heart of a village. If youlook at Tuscany on a map, the natural barriers of the Apennines and theTyrrhenian Sea, which washes its western shores, appear to protect themagnificent hills that form the principal part of the region and constitute itspride and joy.

TuscanyA C A P T I VAT I N G R E G I O N

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Tuscia. Although the vine was an integral part of their civilisation,

the Romans developed and extended its cultivation. There are

many accounts describing a flourishing wine trade in the region

during the 13th and 14th centuries, when Florence and Siena

appear to have been very busy towns. The tavernas no doubt

contributed to this commercial prosperity...

In 1430, Tuscany was united under the Medicis, who not only

made it the centre of the Renaissance movement but also played a

key role on the political, European and world stages until the end

of the 15th century. It was during this period that the vineyards of

Tuscany began to be divided into more specific areas - Chianti, for

example.

AN INDISPUTABLE WINE-PRODUCING TRADITIONThe cultivation of the vine developed in central Tuscany, especially

in the Chianti Classico area between Siena and Florence. The

surrounding “satellite” towns of San Gimignano, Montalcino,

Montepulciano, Carmignano, Rufina and Pomino also gave their

letters of nobility to wines that became increasingly highly prized.

Chianti - which was, and still is, the region’s best known and most

widely produced wine - has certainly established a worldwide

reputation with its famous straw-covered wine flask which, over

the years, has become the symbol of Italian wines. Unfortunately,

its quality did not always live up to its reputation and producers

had to think again. This led to the regulations being revised as a

result of vigorous lobbying on the part of producers determined

to make only the very best wines. Some fought long and hard to

achieve the results with which we are now familiar, particularly

with regard to the proportion of white grapes used in the

production of red wines, high-density planting (which could be

further increased), the yields per hectare and the quality of the

casks used.

AN ATTRACTIVE RANGE OF GRAPEVARIETIES - AND SOMESURPRISING TABLE WINESMeanwhile, and in spite of everything, it was decided to plant newgrape varieties. Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignonwere added to the traditional list of Sangiovese, Canaiolo,Malvasia, Vernaccia and Trebbiano. The cultivation of these newvarieties became sufficiently widespread for them to be used inthe production of DOC wines. They have also become themainstay of the famous Vini da Tavola, which are now mostly IGT(Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wines. Affectionately nicknamed“Supertuscan”, they include Sassicaia, Vigorello, Ornellaia,Cepparello, Solaia, Sassoalloro, Coltassala, Tignanello,Balsastrada and Fontalloro, to name but a few. Their introduction

SANGIOVESE GRAPES, USED TO MAKE TUSCANY'S

CLASSIC CHIANTI WINES

THE BRUNELLO GRAPE IS A CLONEOF THE SANGIOVESE VARIETY

SELECTED BY FERRUCIOBIONDI-SANTI IN THE 1870S

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has certainly changed the viticultural landscape of Italy.Paradoxically, however, the merits of the principle grape variety -Sangiovese - have never been so highly acclaimed (and rightly so),with the other varieties, in this instance, acting as a foil.

PROFILE OF THE PRINCIPAL WINESOF TUSCANYBrunello di Montalcino (DOCG): possibly the finest Tuscan

wine. The picturesque town of Montalcino, south of Siena, is

situated in a hilly region famous for its Brunello grape, a clone of

the Sangiovese variety selected by Ferrucio Biondi-Santi in the

1870s. Some one thousand hectares of chalky-clay soils are

devoted to this noble grape variety. The wine has a deep, rich

colour and distinctive aromas of red fruits and pepper which, as it

matures, are transformed into a bouquet of undergrowth, spices,

leather and sometimes liquorice. Tannic, fleshy and long on the

palate, it is ideal with a portion of venison au poivre and seasoned

cheeses. Serve at 18°C. Best producers: Bondi-Santi, Caparzo,

Banfi, Barbi, San Felice and Frescobaldi. In the same wine-

producing area, Rosso di Montalcino is an unpretentious wine

rich in flavour, soft in the mouth and very fruity. Serve at 16°C,

with osso bucco or paupiettes of veal.

Carmignano Riserva (DOCG): Carmignano, to the west of

Florence, was popular with the Medicis who chose it as their

favourite hunting ground. Well-exposed hills on stony ground,

combined with marls and schists, enable the Sangiovese and

Cabernet grapes to ripen in the very best conditions. Riserva is

full-bodied, rich and elegant, with slightly toasted notes on the

palate. It makes an ideal accompaniment for fillet of beef with

Madeira or mature Tuscan pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese). Serve at

18°C. Tenuta di Capezzana is the cream of the crop.

Chianti (DOCG): today some 24,000 hectares are devoted to theproduction of Chianti, which represents the most extensive wine-growing area in Italy. However, the original - and undoubtedly thebest - area of production, known as Chianti Classico, is situated inthe hills between Siena and Florence. Its soils are extremely variedand its climate erratic. Even so, recent years have seen theproduction of the finest wines ever. A five year-old ClassicoRiserva has an intense colour, with hints of leather andundergrowth. The tannins are softened and it makes an idealaccompaniment for braised beef in red wine or winged game.Serve at 18°C. Best producers: Antinori, Isole e Olena, BaroneRicasoli, Villa Cafaggio, Monte Vertine, Castello di Volpaia,Castello di Fonterutoli.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (DOCG): one of the best top-quality red wines from Tuscany. Possibly a little harsher thanBrunello, the tannins of the Prugnolo Gentile grape (a clone ofSangiovese) are occasionally austere, with hints of spices, tobacco,leather and woodsmoke when the wine is a few years old.Excellent with a civet of rabbit with juniper. Serve at 18°C.Avignonesi and Boscarelli are two very good producers.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano (DOCG): its pale golden colour,flowery aromas and freshness make this dry white wine a pleasantaccompaniment for fish à la meunière. Ideally, try and taste it onits home ground since San Gimignano is one of the mostbeautiful little fortified towns in Italy, justifiably proud of itsmyriad of majestic towers silhouetted against the sky.

A PANORAMIC VIEW OF MONTEPULCIANO, A PICTURESQUE TUSCAN VILLAGE

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Valpolicella - one of the region’s most popular wines - is

produced in a nearby valley, to the east of the lake and

north of Verona. Increasing demand has led to some

over-production, but fortunately a few producers in the real

Classico area, at the western end of the valley, stand apart from the

rest. These houses - Allegrini, Masi, Tedeschi, Serego Alighieri,

Bolla, Quintarelli, Boscaini, Tommasi, Pasqua - produce some

really beautiful wines that deserve to be drunk with due care and

attention. As well as the usual Valpolicella, these wine-growers

also successfully produce the delightful Recioto, Amarone and

Ripasso. Valpolicella has a moderately intense, ruby-red colour,

with aromas of well-ripened red fruits. It is usually fruity, more or

Our wine route begins on the shores of Lake Garda with Bardolino, one of thebest-known Italian red wines. The wine-growing area, which lies on the hillsaround Bardolino and Peschiera, occupies a large part of the eastern shore ofthis impressive lake. The pale red wine is very light, fruity and soft in the mouth,with an aroma of ripe cherries. It makes a good accompaniment for cold meats,sautéed white meats, grilled poultry and spaghetti alla carbonara.

The Veneto wine routeFROM VALPOLICELLA TO LA SERENISSIMA

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EAST OF VERONA, ON THE MOTORWAY TO VENICE, THE SMALL TOWN OF SOAVE


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less full-bodied, soft and fresh in the mouth, with a bite of bitter

almonds to finish. The delicious Recioto della Valpolicella has a

rather intense, beautiful garnet-red colour, with rich, concentrated

aromas of ripe fruit and spices. Heady, smooth and long on the

palate, it becomes Amarone della Valpolicella when it is made

from semi-dried grapes. Its name is a reference to the slightly

bitter (amaro) taste characteristic of this particular type of wine,

which is highly prized for its rich, complex and spicy bouquet.

The rich and wonderfully concentrated Ripasso, which came onto

the market a few years ago, is a very original wine, developed to

suit modern tastes by the excellent house of Masi, although it is

sometimes poorly imitated by other producers.

Valpolicella makes an ideal accompaniment for cold meats,

cannelloni, grilled red meats, roast poultry and polenta with meat

brochettes. Amarone is better served with sautéed red meats and

pot-au-feu, mutton stew and ground game (civet of hare). Recioto

is surprisingly good with calf’s caul au poivre or a spiced cake.

THE SWEET WINES OF SOAVEEast of Verona, on the motorway to Venice, the small town of

Soave and its wines exert an irresistible fascination for the many

tourists who visit the Veneto. Although many of these wines are

rather light and fairly ordinary, there are fortunately some fine

exceptions. These delicious Soaves are developed by competent

and committed producers who grow mainly Garganega vines in

the Classico area. The extremely well-exposed slopes of this

delightful wine-producing area produce juice of very high quality

enabling the production of excellent wine.

Well-adapted management of the vines (gradual elimination of

the pergola and high-density planting), more modest yields and a

faultless wine-making process are today producing some very

good results. A good Soave has a more or less intense straw-yellow

colour and clean, fresh aromas of flowers, plants and sometimes

dried fruit. It is both dry and soft in the mouth, with good acidity,

and makes an ideal accompaniment for shellfish and other

crustaceans, grilled fish and fish à la meunière, and sautéed

poultry in a sauce.

Recioto di Soave is obtained by raisining grapes from the upper

part of the bunches - known locally as recie (ears) - and fermenting

them after over-maturation. It has a beautiful golden-yellow,

sometimes amber-yellow colour and very rich aromas of honey

and dried and candied fruits. It is smooth and full-bodied, and

strikes a good balance between mellowness and acidity. The best

houses, whose production of this wine is classified, often produce

bottles that are destined to become classics. Anselmi, Pieropan,

Tedeschi, Tommasi, Zonin, Masi, Boscaini and Pra are the names

to look out for.

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Although many other wines are produced in the Veneto around a

few quality zones such as Gambellara (good Zonin wines), Bianco

di Custoza, Vini del Piave and Lison-Pramaggiore, there is one

that stands a little apart from the others, less well known and yet

extremely attractive in terms of its quality. In fact, the vineyards of

Breganze, north of Vicenza, have undeniable potential, under the

direction of one producer in particular. With his know-how and

an uncompromising attitude to quality, Fausto Maculan has

set an example for the last fifteen years. By investing, limiting

his yields and planting some exceptional grape varieties -

Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir for the reds, Pinot Bianco,

Pinot Grigio and Vespaiola for the whites - he has been able to

achieve a high level of quality.

Lovers of effervescent wines can enjoy such sparkling white wines

as the famous Prosecco (named after the grape variety) from the

villages of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. It is produced using

the Charmat method, in a closed vat, or more traditionally, by

adding liqueur de tirage (yeast and sugar) to the bottled wine.

Prosecco is very good when it is dry, made by one of the major

producers (Nino Franco, for example) and enjoyed in good

company on a café terrace in Venice, on the Grand Canal or, better

still, in the early evening on one of the little bridges in the Santa

Croce district.

The route ends with a visit to the peaceful town of Bassano del

Grappa, renowned for its earthenware, but more especially for its

grappa, a crystal-clear marc brandy distilled from grape pomace.

The bottles - which look rather like alluring bottles of perfume -

invite connoisseurs to bring this feast of irresistible distillates to a

fitting close.

GRAPE VARIETIES OF THE VENETO- AND ELSEWHEREA great many red and white grape varieties are grown in the

Veneto. Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella, Negrara, Refosco, as well

as Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir, combine to produce red

wines ranging from the most simple to the most complex.

Garganega, Tocai Friulano, Trebbiano, Prosecco, Verduzzo,

Durello, Vespaiolo, Moscato, as well as Pinot Blanc and Gris and

a touch of Sauvignon and Chardonnay, form the basis of different

types of white wines, from the driest to the unctuous Recioto di

Soave, via a complete range of sparkling wines, from the coarsest

to the most refined. Let’s take a closer look at three of these wines.

Garganega: the leading grape variety in the production of Soave

wines. It is a vigorous variety, with a consistently abundant yield,

which produces pleasant, fruity and lively wines that are also soft

in the mouth, especially when it is grown on well-exposed slopes.

Trebbiano: a variety found throughout Italy and worldwide.

Known as Ugni Blanc in France (especially in the Cognac region),

it is becoming increasingly resistant to disease, is well adapted to

all soil types, and produces dry, light wines that are usually rather

too neutral.

Corvina: this red grape variety, which may have originated in the

Veneto, is used in Valpolicella and Bardolino wines. It does well

on rather chalky and relatively infertile soils, has an average

resistance to disease, and produces fruity wines with a slightly

dominant taste of bitter almonds. Ideal for raisining (see Recioto).

Gilbert & Gaillard

A GOOD SOAVE MAKES AN IDEALACCOMPANIMENT FOR SHELLFISH

AND OTHER CRUSTACEANS, GRILLEDFISH AND FISH À LA MEUNIÈRE, AND

SAUTÉED POULTRY IN A SAUCE

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THE LARGEST WHISKY-PRODUCING REGION IS THE HIGHLANDS, WHICHCOVERS THE ENTIRE NORTHERN PART OF SCOTLAND

Malt whiskiesand the Scottish art of living


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The production of Scotch whisky isbased on ancestral traditions andlong-established expertise. It is arich and historic world that isfascinating to discover.

Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Internationalinvites you to join us on a trip to thehills and dells of Scotland, with itsfragrance of peat and heather andthe music of rushing, crystal-clearstreams.

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Before we set off, a brief reminder that whiskies are

divided into two families: blends and single malts. The

former are made from a mix of malted barley and other

grains (for example, wheat or corn). These tend to be less

expensive whiskies (in France they are commonly drunk as an

apéritif), although some that have been matured for long periods

can attain a remarkable quality.

Single malt whiskies, on the other hand, are the aristocracy of

whiskies. There are countless different styles arising from a

multitude of details, each of which has crucial importance: the

quality of the barley (the only grain allowed in single malt

whiskies), the malting (the germination of the seed), the peat

(which gives a smoky, earthy taste), the spring water (which must

be absolutely pure), the blending, the type of vats used … this

complex science is one in which Scottish master distillers excel.

SOME GEOGRAPHYScottish distilleries are distributed over four regions.

Campbeltown, a peninsula located on the west coast, is the

smallest. It produces rare whiskies with a complex character and

smoky and salty hints that reveal its proximity to the sea.

Springbank and Glen Scotia are the only local distilleries. The

second region lies several miles off the Scottish coast, to the

northwest of Campbeltown. The Isle of Islay produces distinctive

THE PRODUCTION OF WHISKY IS AN ANCESTRAL TRADITION THAT HASCHANGED LITTLE OVER THE CENTURIES.

BARLEY, WATER AND PEAT ARE THE THREE PRINCIPAL ELEMENTS©

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malt whiskies with a powerful peaty character. Its most famous

brands are Lagavulin and Laphroaig, dear to whisky lovers who

enjoy strong flavours. Malt whiskies from Islay go well with food;

they are remarkably good with oysters and smoked salmon.

Farther north, we find the Isle of Jura, which produces Jura single

malt whisky. The third region is the Lowlands (basically the area

south of Glasgow and Edinburgh). Here, around a dozen

distilleries produce smooth, light whiskies with floral aromas (for

example, Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan).

The fourth and largest whisky-producing region is the Highlands,

which covers the entire northern part of Scotland. This region

alone is home to over 80% of Scotland’s distilleries, including

Glenmorangie, Oban and Dalwhinnie. Almost half are found in

Speyside, the valley formed by the River Spey, which is fed by

many streams that also provide the water for the local whiskies.

The single malt whiskies made in this region (such as Aberlour,

Glenfiddich, Glenfarclas and The Balvenie) are diverse. They

display a variety of characteristics, such as the aroma of heather

and hints of peat (if peat was used in its production, which is not

a requirement), which can be more or less pronounced.

WATER, FIRE AND TIMEAfter the barley is harvested and sifted, it is left to soak for two

days in large tanks of water. Then it is spread out on the malting

floor to germinate. Around 12 days later, the barley secretes

diastase, an enzyme that enables the conversion of starch to sugar.

Next, the barley receives its distinctive aroma as it is dried over a

peat fire (peat is partially decomposed vegetable matter – it

produces an earthy-smelling smoke when burned). The next step

is known as mashing: the dried malt is ground and mixed with

hot water in large vessels called tuns. This converts the soluble

starch into a sugary liquid known as wort. After cooling, natural

yeast is added to ferment the mixture by converting the sugar to

alcohol. This process takes about two days, producing a liquid

known as wash. The wash is then distilled twice in traditional pot

stills. The first distillation results in what is known as low wine,

which is then redistilled. Only the resulting spirit that is of an

acceptable standard is collected for whisky: the rest is not used.

THE FINAL PHASE After this rigorous selection process, the distillate must undergo a

final phase (by far the longest) before it becomes single malt

whisky: aging. When collected from the pot still, the spirit is close

to 70% alcohol. It must now be refined and enriched aromatically

by maturing it for long periods in casks of oak or barrels that have

previously aged other types of alcohol. The casks most frequently

used are those that have aged sherry, port or bourbon, which has

an impact on the flavour of the whisky. Single malts that have

each matured in different types of casks can also be ‘married’ or

‘vatted’ with other single malts. At the end of aging, the degree of

alcohol is reduced (40% is the minimum) by adding water before

bottling. Some distilleries release undiluted whiskies with up to

60% alcohol, which have a range of complex and subtle aromas.

When drinking these, it is imperative to add mineral water, both

to soften their effects and to allow their full potential to develop.

Some Scottish distilleries also produce single malt whiskies that

are the product of a single cask - they have not been ‘married’ with

THE SPRING WATER MUST BEABSOLUTELY PURE

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SCOTCH WHISKYIN FIGURES

Scotch whisky is Scotland’sbiggest export, ahead ofpetrol and natural gas. Theglobal export value (3.8bi l l ion euros in 2009)c o m e s w a y a h e a d o fbus iness se rv i ces (0 .7billion euros) and financialservices (0.6 billion euros),two key sec tors of theScottish economy. In 2009,34 bottles of Scotch whiskyrepresenting 116 euros ofrevenue were exported eachsecond. Scotch whiskyrepresents a quarter ofBri t ish food and drinkexports and is sold in 200markets around the world.

EXPORT MARKETSFOR SCOTCH WHISKY

1 France 178.9 *

2 USA 120.1

3 Spain 87.4

4 Singapore 51.9

5 South Africa 50

6 Venezuela 42.4

7 Brazil 41.4

8 South Korea 35.9

9 Germany 35

10 Australia 32.9

* millions of 70cl bottles in 2009

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other single malts before bottling. These allow us to discover

whiskies of the same age and provenance that have totally

different aromas.

AGING IS EVERYTHINGThe age of a whisky refers to the time it has spent in the cask. Like

all spirits, once bottled, whisky no longer matures. Some labels

include not only the age (eg. 10, 12, or 15 years), but also the year

the whisky was distilled and bottled. This gives the true age of the

whisky contained in the bottle. The aging process for single malt

whisky varies. One method is double-matured whisky, in which

the spirit is taken from its original cask and placed for the final

two or three years of its maturation in a different type of cask. This

is called a ‘finished’ whisky. For example, a 15-year old whisky

may have spent 12 years in a cask that previously held bourbon

and was then ‘finished’ by transferring it for three years to a cask

that previously aged sherry or port.

Another aging method is the solera process. This Spanish method

developed for maturing sherry uses a set of casks arranged over

several layers, with the bottom casks containing the oldest spirit.

A portion of the content in the oldest casks is drawn off for

bottling, and then the casks are topped up with spirits from the

next layer of casks above, containing slightly younger spirits,

which are topped up with the spirits from the casks above them,

and so on up to the top level. This technique can impart

‘freshness’ to older spirits.

The world of single malt whiskies is in perpetual transformation:

a quest for quality, finesse and innovation is an obsession for

Scottish distillers. They are constantly evolving, eager to meet the

expectations of the millions of demanding whisky lovers around

the world who long ago understood the attraction of one of the

foremost spirits on the planet. Join their growing numbers!

Sylvain Patard

THE NEW SCOTCH WHISKY REGULATIONS

New regulations came into force on 23 November 2009covering all aspects of Scotch whisky production:

For a whisky to be labelled " Scotch whisky ", the entire agingprocess must take place in Scotland.

The traditional names of the production regions (Highland,Lowland, Speyside, Islay and Campbeltown) are protected;these names can only appear on whiskies wholly distilled inthese regions.

Five categories of whisky are clearly defined: Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Single Grain Scotch Whisky,Blended Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt Scotch Whisky andBlended Grain Scotch Whisky.

Single Malt Scotch Whisky must be wholly produced inScotland from distillation to bottling, including maturation.The use of the term " pure malt " is banned.The name of a distillery can only be used on the label if thewhisky was wholly distilled there.

The indication of the age of the whisky is clearly regulated.The statement " 12 years of age " indicates that the whiskywas aged for 12 years.

THE QUALITY OF THE BARLEY (THE ONLY GRAIN ALLOWED IN

SINGLE MALT WHISKIES), IS QUITE IMPORTANT TO MAKE A

GOOD SINGLE MALT

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Compare our tasting notes for a selection of wines from Bordeauxvintage 2009 with those of our well-known American competitors.*www.gilbetrgaillard.com, *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com

WINE SCORES

95-100/100 an outstanding wine, when a great terroir

meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100 a superlative wine combining finesse,

complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100 a wine of extremely high standard, which

we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100 a quality wine combining balance,

structure and neatness for

a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100 a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100 a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100 a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100 unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in

our publications.


GOLD CLUB FOCUS ON 2009 BORDEAUX

SUBLIME BORDEAUX 2009

Bordeaux’s 2009 wines are exceptional. This is due to the

ideal weather in the region that year, which saw a

succession of optimal conditions throughout the growing

cycle: uniform and incident-free flowering, early ripening,

perfectly matured grapes thanks to a hot August, followed

by excellent harvest weather.

The resulting wines live up to feverish expectations with

their exceptional power and polyphenol concentration.

Tasted en primeur, the wines are sometimes still austere,

but should have remarkable potential. At their most

successful - which is the case for many of them - they

are full-bodied and well-balanced. There is little reason

to doubt that we are dealing with first-class wines with

excellent aging potential that will carry on delighting

drinkers in the decades to come. However, watch out for

certain wines with excess tannins or alcohol, or worse,

low acidity, which could lead to future unpleasant surprises.

Below are the wines we are most enthusiastic about. (R) = RED WINE / (W) = WHITE WINE / n/a = not available

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GOLD CLUB FOCUS ON 2009 BORDEAUX


Château La Tour Blanche 50.83 93-95 91-94 94-96

Château Coutet 63.63 94-96 95-98 n/a

Château Rieussec 71.16 94-96 92-95 95-97

Château Suduiraut 71.16 95-97 94-97 97-99

Château d'Yquem 765.44 96-98 97-100 96-98

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 39.47 94-96 90-93 92-94

Clos Haut Peyraguey 40.78 92-94 93-96 91-93

Château Guiraud 42.46 94-95 95-98 94-96

Château La Tour Blanche 50.83 93-95 91-94 94-96

Château Coutet 63.63 94-96 95-98 n/a

Château Rieussec 71.16 94-96 92-95 95-97

Château Suduiraut 71.16 95-97 94-97 97-99

Château d'Yquem 765.44 96-98 97-100 96-98

SSAAUUTTEERRNNEESS -- BBAARRSSAACC

Château Lamothe Guignard 18.94 92-93 90-93 90-92

Château Lamothe unknown 90-91 88-91 90-92

Château Romer du Hayot unknown 90-91 88-91 n/a

Château de Malle unknown 93-95 89-92 88-90

Château Filhot 20.09 91-92 89-92 n/a

Château d'Arche 24.22 93-95 91-94 n/a

Château Doisy Daëne 39.47 90-91 90-93 n/a

Château Doisy Védrines 27.51 92-94 92-95 n/a

Château Rayne Vigneau 38.75 94-96 92-95 94-96

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 39.47 94-96 90-93 92-94

Clos Haut Peyraguey 40.78 92-94 93-96 91-93

Château Guiraud 42.46 94-95 95-98 94-96

SAINT-JULIEN A.C.

Château

Langoa-Barton 2009

Intense colour, crimson high-lights. Huge extraction on thepalate with very firm tannins still.An austere wine that can only bemarked on its potential.

90/100

SAINT-JULIEN A.C.

ChâteauLéoville-Barton 2009Intense hue. Concentrated nosedominated by black berry fruits,l i q u o r i c e . P o w e r f u l , v e r yconcentrated palate, still a littlebackward. A 2009 with faultlessextraction. Huge potential.

95/100

MARGAUX A.C.

Château Lascombes 2009Intense colour, dark purple accents.Harmonious nose marrying ripe redand black fruit and elegant oak.Fullness and power are the key themeson the palate with refined, closely-integrated tannins. Fruit expressionacross the palate. A successful effort.

95/100

SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU A.C.

Château La Gaffelière 20091er Grand Cru Classé BIntense purple-blue. Fresh, extrovert nose of ripe cherry flesh.Admirable harmony on thepalate, crunchy, silky, full mouth-feel, substantial fruity length. Verycharming with total restraint.

98/100

PPRRIICCEE €

VVAATT IINNCCLL..PPRRIICCEE €

VVAATT IINNCCLL..


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7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - FranceTel.: (+33)1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: (+33)1 30 80 08 88

EDITORIAL DIRECTORS:François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard

EDITOR IN CHIEF:Sylvain Patard

TASTING COMMITTEE:François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard,

Olivier Delorme and James Turnbull

REDACTION:Michèle Huyard

CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE:Mark Andrew, Jim Budd, Christophe Chapillon, Pierre

Courdurié, Richard Craig, Christine Fabre, StuartGeorge, Pascal Giberné, Walid Haddad, Louise Hurren,

Thomas Magnani, Jean Natoli, Franck Rousseau,Philippe Roux

TRANSLATION:Elise Bradbury, Sharon Nagel

CORRECTION:Louise Hurren

ADVERTISING: Annick Delauneux - Tel.: (+33)3 26 55 28 92

Alix Noblet - Tel.: (+33)1 30 80 81 69

PRESS RELEASE:Grégoire Meridjen - Fisheye - (+33)6 22 94 53 10

LAY-OUT:Renata Lahalle

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DISTRIBUTORS IN NORTH AMERICA:USA: Speedimpex, 11 101 New YorkMedis Marketing Direct, New York Source Interlink, FL 34134 Bonita SpringsCanada: LMPI, H1J 2L5 Anjou

DISTRIBUTORS IN ASIA:China and Hong Kong: FPPS, Hong KongJapan: DIP, 107 0051 TOKYOTaiwan: MULTI-ARTS, 10455 TaipeiKorea : UPA, 110-850 Séoul

DISTRIBUTORS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW-ZEALAND:Gordon and Gotch Australia, SydneyGordon and Gotch Australia, Auckland

Gilbert & Gaillard Wine International is published by

Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head

office: 7 Parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France •

Legal representative and Editorial director: Sylvain

Patard • Legal deposit: third quarter 2010 • Joint con-

sultative committee: 0612 K 90504

Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine

in any form is expressly prohibited. Any company names that

appear in the articles are given for information only and

have no publicity purpose.


COMING UP SOON...

In our next issue

REGIONTHE EXCEPTIONAL TERROIRS OF MEDOC:Wedged between the forest of the Landes andthe mouth of the Gironde estuary, the flatpeninsula of the Médoc doesn't look likemuch, yet it produces around ten wines thatr a t e a m o n g t h e b e s t i n t h e w o r l d .Explanation!

COVER STORYCHAMPAGNE: This internationallyknown wine-producing region producesexceptional wines from terroirs with dis-tinctive characteristics. Our exhaustives t u d y i n v i t e s y o u t o d i s c o v e rChampagne's vineyards, its winemakers,its names, and naturally, its wines.

CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE:

Recommended Wines Page 23

Domaine de Daurion

+33(0)4 67 98 47 36

E-mail: [email protected]

Château Bélingard

+33(0)5 53 58 28 03


Champagne Guy Tixier

+33(0)3 26 03 42 51


Champagne Simon-Selosse

+33(0)3 26 57 52 40


Domaine de l’Olivette

+33(0)4 94 98 58 85


Domaine Saint-André de Figuière

+33(0)4 94 00 44 70


Domaine Saint-Jean de Villecroze

+33(0)4 94 70 63 07


Domaine de la Rouillère

+33(0)4 94 55 72 60

[email protected]

Gold Club Pages 25-39

Château Léoville Barton

+33(0)5 56 59 06 05

[email protected]

Château Mazeyres

+33(0)5 57 51 00 48

[email protected]

Château Le Sartre

+33(0)5 56 64 08 78

[email protected]

Château La Tour de Mons

+33(0)5 57 88 33 03

[email protected]

Château Tronquoy-Lalande

+33(0)5 56 59 30 12

[email protected]

Michel Gonet et Fils

+33(0)5 57 24 51 23

[email protected]

Bernard Magrez Grands Vignobles

Propriétaire

+33(0)5 57 26 38 38

[email protected]

Domaine Henri Rebourseau

+33(0)3 80 51 88 94

[email protected]

Domaine Philippe Leclerc

+33(0)3 80 34 30 72

[email protected]

Domaine Guy Robin & fils

+33(0)3 86 42 12 63

[email protected]

Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair

+33(0)3 80 52 21 12

[email protected]

Domaine Guy Bocard

+33(0)3 80 21 26 06

[email protected]

Domaine/Maison Jessiaume

+33(0)3 80 20 60 03

[email protected]

Domaine Auvigue

+33(0)3 85 34 17 36

[email protected]

Château de Flaugergues

+33(0)4 99 52 66 37

[email protected]

Domaine La Suffrène

+33(0)4 94 90 09 23

[email protected]

Domaine Dalmeran

+33(0)4 90 49 04 04

[email protected]

Famille Quiot

+33(0)4 90 83 73 55

[email protected]

Domaine Gilles Barge

+33(0)4 74 56 13 90

[email protected]

Domaine Drouet & fils

+33(0)5 45 83 63 13

[email protected]

Château de Beaulon

+33(0)5 46 49 96 13

[email protected]

Famille Gaillard

+33(0)2 54 71 45 69

[email protected]

Wine and Food Page 81

La Cadiérenne

+33(0)4 94 90 11 06

[email protected]

Gold Club Bordeaux 2009 Page 113

Château Lascombes

+33(0)5 57 88 70 66

visite.lascombes@chateau-lascom-

bes.fr

Maison Malet Roquefort

+33(0)5 57 56 40 80

[email protected]

Château Léoville Barton

+33(0)5 56 59 06 05

[email protected]

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