Fabric Sample
Fabric Sample
Fabric Barré
CAUSE % of DEFECTSFiber 70%
Yarn Count Variation 10%
Twist Variation 10%
Hairiness 10%
Fabric Barré due to
1. Micronaire
2. Maturity/Fineness
3. Fluorescence
Micronaire
Causes of Barré :
• > 0.2 Difference in micronaire
• > 0.1 Change in average micronaire mix to mix
• > 12% CV of Micronaire within mix
• Bales with same micronaire placed side by side in mix
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Mix Number
Micronaire
Acceptable Change in Micronairefrom Mix to Mix
Maximum ± .1
High Micronaire CV% in Mix
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Bale Number
Micronaire
* Maximum CV 12%
Aug. 4.1 CV% 17.7*
Maturity & FinenessCauses of Barré• Blending cottons from different growth areas
• Blending cottons from different seed varieties
• Seasonal changes in cotton growth cycle
– Weather
– Insects
• Immature Fiber Content% (IFC%)
– White Speck Neps
– Carding Speeds
Knitted Fabric Sample:3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area
Bale Number
33 22 11
HVI Bale Data:Length & Micronaire Analysis
0
1
2
3
4
5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Micronaire Length Strength
Micronaire & Length (in) Strength (g/tex)
Uster Yarn Data (Ne 26)
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Strength Elongation
Strength (grams) Elongation (%)
AFIS Maturity Module: Maturity Analysis
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Immature Fiber Content Fineness
Immature Fiber Content (%) FIneness (mtex)
White Speck Neps
Fabric AFabric A Fabric BFabric B Fabric CFabric C
Fabric White Speck Defects:AFIS Maturity Module
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
Fabric A Fabric B Fabric C
Immature Fiber Content Maturity Ratio
Immature Fiber Content (%) Maturity Ratio
Card Mat & Sliver Variation:AFIS Maturity Analysis
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
Card 7 Card 8 Card 9 Card 11 Card 12 Card 13
Card Mat Sliver
Immature Fiber Content (%)
Variation in Card Sliver:AFIS Maturity Module
0
5
10
15
Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card 49 Card 51
Immature FIber Content (%)
FluorescenceCauses of Barré
• Variation in average UV readings between bale mixes
• CV% in UV readings within a mix
• End-of-season cotton crop changes
• Outside storage of cotton bales
• Mixing high and low UV bales
• UV readings increase over time in warehouse
Fluorescence
Solutions
• UV test every bale before making mix
• Maximum 10 points difference of UV readings within mix
• Maximum change in UV average 1 point between mixes
• Set up category groups for UV
Variation of Bale UV Within Mix
0 4 8 12 16 20 2465
70
75
80
85
90
95
100
Bale Number
UV
Average 80 Max ±5
Variations in Average UVfrom Mix to Mix
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1775
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
Mix Number
UV
Maximum Change ±1 in Average