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AAC Publications El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó In late January 2014, Chris Moore, Katie Ryan, Cooper Varney, and I began to porter our gear across the strenuous 13km approach from La Junta to the base of El Monstruo. We set our eyes on a direct and sustained line on the east face, to the right of the one I completed last season, La Presencia de Mi Padre (AAJ 2013). At the top of the first pitch, we already knew we were onto something good. After a total of three trips to the wall, doing three- to four-day pushes each time, we completed our new route Aprendiz del Monstruo (1,300m, VI 5.12) on February 19. Of the 22 pitches, only five are easier than 5.10, and there are two pitches of 5.12. The quality of the climbing carries right through from bottom to top. This is the second free route on the wall and avoids the upper snowfield at the top, negating the need for any snow equipment. We established the route ground-up, and the climb involved a number of bird beaks and other small gear in addition to some bolts. We first aided and cleaned a number of pitches before redpointing them. From the top of the formation, we descended the northeast ridge as the Polish team did from their route La Gran Raja (AAJ 2006). Going this way, you will need to downclimb moderate terrain until reaching the rappels for Pared Espejo in Anfiteatro, or continue to the pass at Valle Trinidad where there is an established fixed line. This descent, in its own right, would make for an involved mountaineering route. Since 2013, a massive rock scar has adorned the far right side of the wall. The debris left a path that bisects La Gran Raja, appearing to have obliterated its initial pitches. Nathan Conroy, USA
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El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

Jul 09, 2020

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Page 1: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

AAC Publications

El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del MonstruoArgentina-Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó

In late January 2014, Chris Moore, Katie Ryan, Cooper Varney, and I began to porter our gear acrossthe strenuous 13km approach from La Junta to the base of El Monstruo. We set our eyes on a directand sustained line on the east face, to the right of the one I completed last season, La Presencia deMi Padre (AAJ 2013). At the top of the first pitch, we already knew we were onto something good.After a total of three trips to the wall, doing three- to four-day pushes each time, we completed ournew route Aprendiz del Monstruo (1,300m, VI 5.12) on February 19. Of the 22 pitches, only five areeasier than 5.10, and there are two pitches of 5.12. The quality of the climbing carries right throughfrom bottom to top.

This is the second free route on the wall and avoids the upper snowfield at the top, negating the needfor any snow equipment. We established the route ground-up, and the climb involved a number of birdbeaks and other small gear in addition to some bolts. We first aided and cleaned a number of pitchesbefore redpointing them. From the top of the formation, we descended the northeast ridge as thePolish team did from their route La Gran Raja (AAJ 2006). Going this way, you will need to downclimbmoderate terrain until reaching the rappels for Pared Espejo in Anfiteatro, or continue to the pass atValle Trinidad where there is an established fixed line. This descent, in its own right, would make foran involved mountaineering route.

Since 2013, a massive rock scar has adorned the far right side of the wall. The debris left a path thatbisects La Gran Raja, appearing to have obliterated its initial pitches.

Nathan Conroy, USA

Page 2: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

Images

El Monstruo showing La Presencia de Mi Padre (left) and Aprendiz del Monstruo (right).

Chris Moore leading a thin corner on pitch 2.

Page 3: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

Chris Moore pulling through the pitch 1 crux.

At the Hotel Juniper Bivy atop pitch 19.

Page 4: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

Cooper Varney leading the 5.12 crux on pitch 18.

Cooper Varney heading up pitch 20.

Page 5: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

The descent ridgeline.

Topo for Aprendiz del Monstruo.

Page 6: El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruopublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212741.pdf · El Monstruo, east face, Aprendiz del Monstruo Argentina-Chile, Northern

Article Details

Author Nathan Conroy

Publication AAJ

Volume 56

Issue 88

Page 220

Copyright Date 2014

Article Type Climbs and expeditions