BatmobileLights.com: How to Install an LED Kit in a 1:18 Scale Hot Wheels '66 Batmobile

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How to Install an LED LIGHT KIT ina 1966 1/18 Scale Hot Wheels

BATMOBILEby Jordan 'J.B.' Malik

email: [email protected]

Copyright 2010-13 JordanMalik.com Inc. All Rights Reserved. 1

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LEGAL INFORMATION:

All images of my personal models are copyright of JordanMalik.com Inc., d/b/a member11756jm (ebay User ID) / batmobilelights.com. The images and/or text and are not to be reproduced or redistributed, in any fashion without my permission beforehand. The Batmobile and Batman trademarks, and Hot Wheels, are all copyright of their respective owners. This guide, its content and its publishers are in no way affiliated with Hot Wheels, DC Comics, Warner Brothers, nor its partners/subsidiaries.

This guide does not guarantee successful completion of the intended project (LED light installation). As a purchaser of this guide, you agree not to hold responsible JordanMalik.com Inc., its owners/affiliates and/or eBay, and/or eBay user member11756jm and/or JordanMalik.com's employee(s) and representatives, for any omissions in the guide, and/or for any damages or injuries caused from the use of this guide and its instructions herein.


Thank you, Gotham Citizen, for your purchase of this guide and/or kit!

YOU WILL NEED the below TOOLS (you probably have most of these around the house. If you don't, check your local hardware store. If that fails, I have a web address after some of the major items where you can buy them, inexpensively, from Amazon.com):

>> Hot glue gun (buy a cheap one here: http://amzn.to/1eHECUI )

>> Black electric tape

>> One (1) 9V Battery

>> Rotary Tool/Power drill (or Dremel tool) (buy a cheap one here: http://bit.ly/rodrill2)

>> Drill bits in these sizes: 5/16”, 11/64”, 1/8”, 7/64” (buy a cheap one here: http://bit.ly/bddbset )

>> Mini philips head screwdriver: (buy one cheap here: http://bit.ly/miniphill )

>> Optional: Super-glue

>> Optional: Soldering gun (buy a cheap one here: http://bit.ly/hsgun2), don't forget to get soldering wire (http://bit.ly/soldwir)

>> Optional: Small pieces of paper and a pen, and scotch tape so you can label your items as we go along (we will tell you what to label, and we'll refer to it often.) This will make it easier for you to follow.

>> Optional: Small exacto/hobby knife (suitable for stripping the ends of the LED wires). (Buy a cheap one here: http://bit.ly/xactokn ) You will be stripping the ¼ to ½-inch at the end of each black and red wire so you have a nice length of the 'raw' wire to connect to the other wires. You can use a very FINE Knife to gently 'shave' the black and/or red plastic off the wire, OR (what I do) use a lighter to melt the plastic off the last 1/4-inch of each wire until the metal fibers of the wire are fully exposed).

PLEASE CONTINUE to the NEXT PAGE!


http://bit.ly/xactokn

http://bit.ly/soldwir

http://bit.ly/hsgun2

http://bit.ly/miniphill

http://bit.ly/bddbset

http://bit.ly/rodrill2

http://amzn.to/1eHECUI

IF YOU ALREADY HAVE THE LEDs and WIRING KIT, CONTINUE (Skip ahead) TO PAGE 8

IF YOU NEED TO ORDER a 'READY TO INSTALL' LED and WIRING KIT, GO http://kit.batmobilelights.com

IF YOU ARE GOING TO SOLDER YOUR OWN LEDs to Your OWN RESISTORS & WIRES, go to the NEXT

PAGE




http://kit.batmobilelights.com/


If you are getting your OWN LEDs and Wiring for this project, YOU WILL NEED the below COMPONENTS. HOWEVER, THE LEDs are HARD TO FIND, & DIFFICULT TO SOLDER. You CAN order the ENTIRE LED Kit from me, with the LEDs already soldered to the resistors and 'ready to go', here: http://kit.batmobilelights.com:

If you are creating your own LED kit, you will need:

(Qty: 2) 3mm Yellow LED lights (for front 'bat ray' marker lamps)(Qty: 1) 3mm Blue LED light (for cockpit)(Qty: 1) 3mm Flashing Orange LED light (for 'fire effect' in exhaust-turbine)(Qty: 1) 3mm Flashing 'fast' Red LED light (for 'fire effect' in exhaust turbine)(Qty: 1) 1.8mm Flashing 'normal' Red LED Light (for 'beacon' red light on top of cockpit)(Qty: 6) 470 ohm resistors (you need to solder one resistor to the 'positive' (long) prong on each LED.(Qty: 1) 9V 'battery strap' connected to:

(Qty: 1) on-off switchabout 4 feet of red ('positive')-coated wireabout 4 feet of black ('negative)-coated wire

Your components should look like the below:

LED bulbs (6 total):

470 Ohm Resistor (6 total):

9V Battery Strap and connected On/Off Switch: (See next page)


http://kit.batmobilelights.com/

Red and Black wiring (thin gauge):

Don't have the lights yet? Make it easy for yourself and get the ENTIRE LED kit, ready to go, here:



Here we go!

FIRST, WE ARE GOING TO ASSEMBLE OUR LEDs VIA THE DIAGRAM BELOW. (If you already have your LEDs, Wires, and Battery Strap/On-off Switch, JUMP TO PAGE 8

TO ASSEMBLE YOUR LEDs:

TAKE EACH LED and SOLDER ONE END of a Resistor to the 'POSITIVE' Leg (the longer of the two) to the LED. THEN SOLDER the RED Wire to the OTHER end of the resistor.

Then SOLDER the BLACK wire to the OTHER LED Prong.

All soldered connections and exposed wire should be protected/covered with a thin strip of electrical tape or shrink tube.

(See the diagram below for details):__________________________________________________________________

All soldered connections and exposed wire should be protected/covered with a thin strip of electrical tape or shrink tube.


NOW WE ARE GOING TO DISMANTLE our BATMOBILE so we can begin INSERTING our LEDs

***PLEASE READ THIS PAGE BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION OF THE LIGHT UP KIT TO YOUR BATMOBILE*** PLEASE READ THIS PAGE BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION OF THE LIGHT UP KIT

TO YOUR BATMOBILE***

BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

As you disassemble the Batmobile MAKE CLOSE OBSERVATIONS as to how the car is PUT TOGETHER, Particularly the FRONT AXLE and STEERING COLUMN. My Pictures and description will help you, but you will find WHEN IT COMES TIME FOR YOU TO REASSEMBLE THE CAR, it will be helpful for YOU to take note of how the parts are fit together.

Also, this project and pictures are intended for modifying the 'base' 1966 1/18 scale Batmobile, NOT the 'Elite' or 'Super Elite' or any other limited editions of the 1966 1/18 scale Batmobile. Certainly, it is possible to install this kit on toy cars OTHER than the base 1966 1/18 scale Batmobile (I know some readers have used my instructions to install an LED Kit in the Elite), but this guide is for the base 1966 1/18 scale Batmobile only.

Finally, we recommend you read ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS first, before you actually begin this project. This will help you get familiar of the parts required, and the process flow. Go ahead, it will only take a few minutes.

PLEASE READ THE ABOVE BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION OF THE LIGHT UP KIT TO YOUR BATMOBILE


1.Take your Batmobile and flip it over so it is resting on its 'beacon'. Be sure its laying on something soft (like a cloth, not shown here) so the beacon/antenna don't break off.

2. With the Batmobile flipped over, look for the tiny screws that are holding the bottom chassis to the car. Remove the Screws using a Mini Philips-head screwdriver (there are 8 screws) and PLACE THEM IN A BAGGIE OR A SMALL JAR SO YOU DON'T LOSE THEM!


3. After the 8 screws are removed, Grab the rear end portion of the BOTTOM CHASSIS (grab it right behind the rear wheels) and lift it up and away from the car. AS YOU LIFT IT UP, be sure to OBSERVE how the FRONT WHEELS AND AXLE are CONNECTED to the MIDDLE of the Car (Note how the pegs on the Axle are INSERTED Into the chassis. Gently remove the FRONT AXLE (the front wheels will still be attached to the axle).


http://www.BatmanBatmobile.com/

4. Now rotate the car so the Front (Nose) is to Your LEFT. As you continue to lift the Bottom Chassis up, You will see the doesn't lift up easily from the FRONT part of the car. That is because the chassis is being held on by a couple screws that are VERY DIFFICULT to get to. I just continued pulling the Bottom Chassis in the direction shown by the arrow (see below) until it SNAPPED off (this will not ruin the appearance of the car when you are completed).


5. This is a closeup where the bottom chassis SNAPS off the car. WE SUGGEST YOU SCOTCH TAPE A SMALL NOTE TO THIS BOTTOM CHASSIS AND LABEL IT “BOTTOM”


6. Set the BOTTOM CHASSIS ASIDE. The picture below is of the “MIDDLE CHASSIS" (plastic) still attached to the Body (metal) of the car. There are NO SCREWS or anything for you to remove this middle chassis. WE SUGGEST YOU SCOTCH TAPE A SMALL NOTE TO THIS MIDDLE CHASSIS LABELED “MIDDLE”


7. Lift Out the MIDDLE CHASSIS. This will come out easily. You'll see that I am lifting it out by pinching the bottoms of the seats.



8. After you lift on the MIDDLE CHASSIS, you will see the cockpit, canopy, 'Bat-Reverse' Lever, Steering Wheel, and Dashboard.

9. LIFT OUT THE STEERING WHEEL Column,


10. Remove the Dashboard and set it aside. Note: See the engine hood on the right side of this picture (below)? You don't need to snap it out. Mine snapped out by mistake. If yours snaps out by accident, you can easily glue it back in.

11. Now you're ready to start installing your LEDs!


12. The Rear 'Flamethrower' Exhaust tube should just pull out nicely. Go ahead and pull it out.


13. You'll see that the exhaust 'tube' is held in place on the Batmobile by a little Peg. See the Hole where the Peg goes into the body of the car? You want to drill that hole to make it a little bigger (drill it with a 11/64” drill bit)

14. Here (below picture) I'm using my 11/64" drill bit to drill the existing hole a little bigger.


15.Now take your drill, and using the same 11/64” BIT, Drill TWO HOLES into the exhaust tube: One on EACH SIDE of the PEG.

16.Now take ONE YELLOW FLASHING LED and ONE RED FLASHING LED and Feed the wires from both LEDs through the two holes you just made in the Exhaust Tube. Note that I have the red and black wires from one LED going through one hole, and the red and black wires from the OTHER LED going through the OTHER hole. (NOTE: If you sense that the holes you drilled are to small, upgrade to the next-size drill bit and drill the holes bigger.)


17. Pull the Wires from their "loose" ends GENTLY Until the LEDs are tucked INSIDE the “Flamethrower Exhaust" tube.

18. Now remember the hole you drilled in the back of the Batmobile, where the Exhaust tube was originally attached? Feed all four of the wires through that hole.


19. Now SUPERGLUE (or Hot-Glue) the Exhaust Tube BACK INTO PLACE where it stood before the build. Be careful because it's not meant to be removed again after you glue it in place! Be sure to GENTLY PULL the LED's wires all the way into the car. Also put a dab of glue (where the 2ND red arrow is in the picture below) to keep those wires from moving in and out of the hole.


20. The back of your Batmobile's exhaust tube should now look like this.


21. Now look at the front of the Batmobile. See the orange rectangular marker light covers? I made the mistake of drilling holes from the OUTSIDE IN (Duh) and ended up breaking the marker lamp. So DON'T Drill the way I drilled in the picture below. You should use a 1/8-inch drill bit and drill a HOLE from the INSIDE of the car, right BEHIND the Orange marker. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL THROUGH THE ORANGE MARKER COVER. Drill the hole THROUGH THE METAL only, from the INSIDE, and be sure to STOP DRILLING When you've gone through the metal. (If you don't stop drilling after you've gone through the metal, your drill bit might push out the orange marker lamp)


22. Now take a RED FLASHING LED and place the BULB of the LED right over the 'red opaque' circle on the canopy, just like you see here (below). Remember your canopy is upside down, and the Red 'Emergency Turn' Lever should be sticking up. The Bulb should be laying down on top of the 'red opaque' circle, JUST to the left of the Turn Lever. HOT GLUE this in place by placing a drop or two of HOT GLUE on the BLACK COATED SLEEVES (not the bulb!), as shown where the blue oval is, in the picture below. WHEN THE GLUE HAS COOLED, Gently DRAPE the LED Wires along that black center 'pillar' so they are flush against that pillar. You want to be sure when you reassemble your Batmobile, the Wires are hidden as well as you can hide them. OPTIONAL: Place a piece of black electrical tape over the BOTTOM part of the Red LED (see the white arrow below). This will ensure the Red light doesn't 'show' anywhere except 'through' the beacon when you flip over the canopy.


23. Now replace your dashboard where it was originally placed in the Batmobile.

24. Now take a Blue LED and place it under the dash as shown below. This will give blue 'ambiance' lighting to the interior of the cockpit. Place a DROP OR TWO of HOT GLUE as indicated in the picture below, to keep the Bulb in place (do NOT glue the BULB itself!)


25. Now look inside the engine bay. Place a YELLOW (NON-FLASHING) LED bulb RIGHT AT THE 1/8” HOLE That you had previously drilled from the inside of the car (SEE STEP 21). Remember this is the hole that the LED needs to shine through to illuminate the Orange Rectangle Marker lamps (visible from the outside). Place a DROP or TWO of Hot Glue on the BLACK SLEEVES of the LED lamp (NOT ON THE BULB), as shown here. LET IT COOL BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP. DO THE SAME TO THE other side (where the other hole you drilled, behind the Orange Rectangle Marker Lamp).



26. Note how I'm placing the LED bulb RIGHT UP AGAINST THE HOLE here.

27. YOU will now return the MIDDLE CHASSIS to the car. First Check the MIDDLE CHASSIS - if the FRONT AXLE has FALLEN out of the MIDDLE CHASSIS' PEG HOLES, Reinsert the axle INTO THE MIDDLE CHASSIS so it looks like the photo below.


28. FLIP THE MIDDLE CHASSIS OVER, Ensuring your FRONT AXLE Stays in Place. Reinsert the STEERING COLUMN in the GROOVE above the 'Foot Pedals', and reattach the OTHER END of the Steering column as shown in the YELLOW WINDOW below. When you are done, rotating the steering wheel right and left should make the FRONT WHEELS 'TURN', Just like they used to before you dismantled the Batmobile.


29. Gather the THREE SETS of Wires (From the Blue Dashboard LED that you installed, and the TWO Yellow LEDs you installed), so they are outside the car and you can grab them easily. THEN, Holding the Steering Column IN PLACE with your thumb (as shown) place the Middle Chassis onto the Body of the car, as it was before.

30. Run the wires you gathered in the previous step alongside the edge between the middle chassis and front door, as shown in the photo below.


31. This is how your Middle Chassis should look now. Also note the steering column is back in place (see below).

32. Now get the BOTTOM CHASSIS of the car. You are gong to drill a hole for the white plastic ON-OFF SWITCH underneath the car, right about where the underside of the TRUNK is. START with a SMALL BIT (i.e. 7/64"), then after the 'Starter' hole is drilled, Move to a 5/16” bit.


33. This is your starter hole, below.

34. Now see how I'm drilling the larger hole into the smaller hole, using a 5/16" drill bit.


35. Insert the white button (from your battery Snap/Switch) into the hole (don't glue it yet), but ensure your hole is not too big so the entire button falls through. There is more detail on this step in the next step and photo (turn page please).



36. The only parts of the white switch that should go through the hole are indicated by the red arrows below. You are gluing the BASE of the Switch to the bottom chassis (see yellow text below), but letting the 'switch' segment only go through the hole..AFTER GLUE HAS BEEN APPLIED around the hole, put the switch through the hole. The base of the Switch should fit flush over the black plastic bottom chassis now. If you used HOT GLUE, LET IT COOL Before continuing.


37. This is what your On-Off button should look like from the OTHER side of the Chassis. Push the button to ensure it can click on or off.

38. Now your bottom chassis (shown in the bottom of the picture below) and the rest of the chassis (shown on the top of the photo below) should look like this (below). Note how I have the LED wires draped in the photo.


39. Gather all the RED LED Wires ONLY (NOT the red Wire coming from the Battery Snap) and 'BRAID' (twist) their ends together as such. You should have SIX RED WIRES TOTAL - TWO from the Exhaust, ONE from the Red Beacon Siren, ONE from the blue dashboard LED, and TWO from the front yellow LEDs. Then do the same with the BLACK Led Wires Only. You should have SIX Black wires total. DO NOT CONNECT ANY BLACK LED WIRES to ANY OF THE RED LED WIRES.


40. Now take the RED WIRE from your BATTERY SNAP SWITCH and TWIST IT ONTO THE already-braided RED LED Wires. SOLDERING IS OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED FOR A SECURE HOLD. Do the Same to the BLACK WIRE from Your BATTERY SNAP SWITCH. SOLDERING IS OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED FOR A SECURE HOLD.


41. Place a small piece of BLACK ELECTRIC Tape over all the 'braided' end of the red wires. Do the same (Separately) to the Black wires. For demonstration, see how I'm wrapping the red wires below with a piece of tape (below)



42. Attach a NEW 9V Battery to the Battery Snap as shown. Nestle the 9V Battery within the Middle Chassis as shown below (you do NOT need to glue the 9V battery. Gluing the 9V battery in place is NOT recommended in the event you have to replace it someday). PUSH the on-off (white) button. ALL 6 of YOUR LEDs should LIGHT UP. If they don't you, need to check all your connections, beginning with the ones you just 'twisted' together. Also make sure the 9V battery is securely 'snapped' to the black battery snap. When you are done testing the lights, Turn the lights OFF.

43. Now reattach the BOTTOM CHASSIS by putting it back in place and reinserting the 8 Screws you originally removed from the bottom. Before you attach the bottom chassis, MAKE SURE ALL YOUR WIRES ARE NEATLY TUCKED IN and out of view!


44. Your Light-up Batmobile is Now Ready for Display! To the Batmobile, Robin!


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BatmobileLights.com: How to Install an LED Kit in a 1:18 Scale Hot Wheels '66 Batmobile

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