Apparel Internship @ Orient Craft Limited

APPAREL INTERNSHIP@

Orient Craft Limited

Knits Division

Gurgaon

Presented by:

Baabul Singh

Nitish Kohli

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We take this opportunity to express our gratitude

to the people who have been instrumental in the

successful completion of this internship

We would like to thank

Mr. L. P. Luthra – Production Manager

Mr. Jahangir Pathan – General Manager

Mr. Saikat Pramanik (Faculty Mentor)

and all our faculty members for guiding us through

this internship

CONTENTS

Company Profile

Introduction

Financials

Infrastructure

Organization Chart

Process Flow of the company

Department Study

Merchandising

Sampling

Fabric and Trims Store

Spreading & Cutting

CAD

Sewing

Washing

Dry Cleaning

Finishing & Packaging

Logistics

PPC

IE

Quality Assurance

Machine Details

Floor Plan

Project

Implementation of Kaizen

Improvement of Sewing

Floor Productivity

Learning Outcome

COMPANY PROFILE

INTRODUCTION

Set up in 1978, Orient Craft Limited has

consistently been one of India's top garment

manufacture and export organizations

The company has three shareholders

Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Chairman and Managing

Director),

Mr. K.K. Kohli and

Mr. Anoop Thatai

PRODUCT MIX

Blouses

Skirts

Pants

Shorts

Dresses

Jackets

Outerwear

Men’s shirts

Kids wear

Knitted shirts/t-shirts

Ropers

CLIENTS

Armani Exchange

Marc Jacob

Dillard’s

Ann Taylor

Tommy Hilfiger

Banana Republic

GAP

Next Retail Ltd.

Old Navy

Ralph Lauren

Marks & Spencer

Macy’s

FINANCIALS

Turnover

USD 105 million for 2002-2003

USD 118 million for 2004-2005

USD 165 million for 2005-2006 (Rs. 742 crores)

Other Financials

Last year’s profit was $8 million (40 crores), despite more competitive pricing.

Breakdown of Sales Revenue

Est. USD 2010 % of Sales Per Garment % Retail Price

Material Cost 82.5 – 99 million 50 – 60 $ 5.00 – 6.00 0.08 – 0.12

Labor 19.8 – 24.8

million

12 – 15 $ 1.20 – 1.50 0.02 – 0.03

Overhead 19.8 – 24.8

million

12 – 15 $ 1.20 – 1.50 0.02 – 0.03

Profit (Target) 16.5 million 10 $ 1.00 0.02

INFRASTRUCTURE

Company has more than 21 production facilities,

of which four are in Delhi, six in Gurgaon, and

one large plant is located in Noida.

The knitwear division is over 380,000 sq. ft. and

employs 5000 people.

In 2003 Orient established a manufacturing

complex of 340,000 sq. ft. at the cost of over $10

million USD, which was at the time the “single

largest multi-product manufacturing plant in the

whole of India.”

ORGANIZATION CHART

Joint Managing Director &

CEO

Production Manager

Cutting

Production

Finishing

Packing

Production Compliance

Quality Assurance Manager

Quality Auditors

General Manager

Personnel

Administration

Welfare

Maintenance

Security

House Keeping

Social Compliance

Electric

PROCESS FLOW

Interaction with Buyer

Placing of Order

Pre-Production Meeting

Prototype Approval

Size Set Sample

Approval

Acquisition of Raw Material

Raw Material Inspection

Fabric Washing / Relaxation

Marker Making

Spreading

Cutting SewingEmbroidery /

Printing (if any)

Garment Washing (if required)

Finishing

PackingShipment

DEPARTMENT STUDY

MERCHANDISING

The merchandisers are segregated according to the brands

They form the relation and negotiation between the company and

its buyers and suppliers

Merchandisers are divided according to the different brands

Merchandisers follow up the style and the order until they have

been received by the buyers

PROCESS FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT

Receives the tech pack

Send it to the sampling dept.

Calculation of cost and fabric

consumption

Confirming PO order

fabric and trims ordered

Getting the fit sample

approved

FPT to conform the standards

Getting approval for

size set

Preparing the cutting ticket for

cutting dept.

Pilot run for 50 100 pieces

Getting TOP samples approved

Follow up

Receives the tech pack

Send it to the sampling dept.

Calculation of cost and fabric

consumption

Confirming PO order

fabric and trims ordered

Getting the fit sample

approved

FPT to conform the standards

Getting approval for

size set

Preparing the cutting ticket for

cutting dept.

Pilot run for 50 100 pieces

Getting TOP samples approved

ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER

The following activities are done by a merchandiser:

Design sampling

Fabric sourcing

Accessories sourcing

Collecting test report

Quality check

Report maintenance

shipping

SAMPLING

The sampling department is just a small portion

of the production floor.

It only has sewing machines.

The other activities such as cutting and finishing

are done in their respective departments.

High priority is given to sampling.

DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE

Sampling Manager

Supervisor

Tailors

Embroiders

WORKING PROCEDURE

Getting clarifications about style details from

merchandiser.

Getting PPA from Buyer through Merchandiser.

Checking pattern’s workability.

Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s

approval.

Informing quality related problems, encountered during

preparing samples, to QC.

Revising the specification of the buyer.

Minimizing operations and consumption.

Innovation of new methods.

TYPES OF SAMPLES PREPARED

SAMPLES PREPARED

PROTO SAMPLE

FIT SAMPLE

SALES SAMPLE

PP SAMPLE

SIZE SET

SAMPLE

FABRIC & TRIMS STORE

All the raw materials are ordered and purchased

by the department.

Issuing of raw materials to various department is

done by the stores department.

Buyer either specifies the vendors or the

company sources it from vendors like :

Mafat Lal

Nahar textiles

WORK FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT

REQUISITION OF MATERIAL

ACQUISITION OF MATERIAL

ISSUING OF MATERIALS TO

DIFF ERENT DEPARTMENTS

HIERARCHY OF THE DEPARTMENT

STORE MANAGER

FABRIC STORE

INCHARGE

FABRIC SUPERVISOR

HELPER

TRIM STORE INCHARGE

TRIM SUPERVISOR

HELPER

SPREADING & CUTTING

Spreading & Cutting is considered to be the most

important part of the garment manufacturing

unit.

It was located on the second floor of the building.

It was divided into 3 sections:

Spreading & Cutting 1 – Ground Floor

Spreading & Cutting 2 – First Floor

Bundling & Ticketing

SPREADING & CUTTING

All the labor was hired on contract basis.

There were two contractors, each handling one of

the Spreading & Cutting sections.

The no. plies depended on the GSM of the fabric.

They never calculated the no. of plies beforehand,

they only measured the height of the lay.

Lay height – 2 to 2.5 inches

Tolerance in cutting varied from style to style

and also buyer to buyer.

PROCESS FLOW

•CPL is followed

•Fabric is cut in lengths = Lay length + 5%

•Since it is tubular, the fabric is cut open

•The fabric is left overnight for relaxation

•If it needs to be washed, then sent for washing

•The fabric is then spread manually by 6 – 8 workers

•If the fabric has been washed, then it is left for an hour for relaxation after spreading

•Otherwise, lay is covered with paper and left for 24 hours for relaxation

•Finally, cutting is done using straight knife

•For small parts, usually of that of kids’ wear, band knife is used.

BUNDLING & TICKETING

The Bundling and Ticketing section had company

employees.

Ticketing was done using ticketing guns.

Bundling takes place manually, every bundle had

a tag which contains the entire description of the

garment.

CAD DEPARTMENT

This department is divided into 2 sections:

Pattern Making Section:

This section is involved in making patterns for the different

garments.

The pattern making section is in the head office of the

company.

Most of the patterns are made manually and then plotted

and graded.

Marker Making Section:

This section receives patterns from the pattern making

section and then the marker is prepared.

The marker efficiency varies from 70% to 85%.

DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE

HEAD PATTERN MASTER

CAD MASTER

GRADING MASTERS

MARKER MAKERS

MANUAL PATTERN MASTER

HELPER

PLOTTER

SEWING DEPARTMENT

The unit had 2 sewing floors

Ground Floor – 6 sewing lines

First Floor – 7 sewing lines

Each line consisted of 25 to 30 machines,

depending on the style.

Each line was set according to the line plan of the

running plan

The average capacity of each line was 800 pieces

per day

PROCESS FLOW

CUT PARTS RECEIVED

PREPARATION OF SMALLER PARTS

INLINE INSPECTION

ASSEMBLY OF PARTS

INSPECTION

SEWING DEPARTMENT

All the labor were employed through a contractor

on piece rate basis

The production manager only supervised the

contractor’s working

WASHING DEPARTMENT

There were 5 kinds of washing being done:

Fabric Wash

Garment Wash

Softener Wash

Silicon Softener Wash

Bio Wash

WASHING

Fabric Wash:

Only cold water washing is done

The fabric is then tumble dried.

Garment Wash:

This is usually done using detergent.

It is then followed by two cold water washes and

tumble drying.

Softener Wash:

Cationic softener is used in this kind of washing.

Softener is introduced after normal washing.

WASHING

Silicon Softener Wash:

If softener wash fails to give the desired feel, silicon

softener is used.

Silicon softener is used only for colored garments.

Bio-Wash:

Biopolis enzyme is used for this kind of washing.

It is used to remove pilling from the fabric surface.

DRY CLEANING

The dry cleaning department was a very small

part of the company with only 3 machines.

The basic purpose for which dry cleaning was

being used in the company was for the removal of

oil stains.

Though sometimes, dry cleaning was also done

on buyer’s requirements.

FINISHING & PACKAGING

It is the last stage of making a garment

Buyer specifications are strictly followed

This department is located on both the sewing

floors

PROCESS FLOW

BATCH RECEIVED

FROM WASHING

TRIMMING IS DONE

MIDDLE CHECKING

MEASUREMENT CHECKING

IRONINGPRESENTATION

CHECKING

PACKAGING FINAL AUDIT

FINISHING & PACKAGING

Some of the operations performed at finishing

stage are :

Thread cutting

Stain Removal

Rough Checking

Seam Ironing

Alterations and Stain Removal

Final Ironing

Final Checking

Tagging and Packing

Presentation Checking and Carton Packing

LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT

The Logistics Department can also be referred to

as the Operations department.

This department comprises of two different

departments.

These are

Production Planning and Control

Industrial Engineering

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

The main functions of the PPC department are:

Making a calendar of production by booking the

capacity as per order quantity.

Keeping a track on the per day production to

check if it is meeting the targets or not.

They make reports of every day production of

each line.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

It is concerned with design, improvement and

installation of integrated system of people,

material, equipment and energy.

They do time and work study for maximum

utilization of the resources.

Develops the line plan.

Identifies the problem areas and corrects them.

QUALITY ASSURANCE

The main objective of the department is to maintain the

quality of the product.

To check that the Buyer requirements and specifications

are followed properly.

Check points:

Stores

Cutting

Bundling and Ticketing

Sewing

Washing

Finishing

Final Audit

PROCESS FLOW

PPM HAPPENS AND QUALITY

DETAILS GIVEN

QA DEPT DEVELOPS SPEC SHEET FOR EACH

OPERATION

IDENTIFIES THE CHECK POINTS

TRAINS THE OPERATOR

QC CHECKS THE QUALITY

QUALITY SUPERVISOR

SUPERVISE THEM

MANAGERS TAKE THE FINAL AUDIT

BUYERS QC GIVES THE APPROVAL

MACHINERY DETAILSTotal

Machine Quantity

Single Needle Lock Stitch 105

Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 156

Single Needle Edge Cutter 6

Single Needle Chain Stitch 6

Double Needle Lock Stitch 5

Double Needle Chain Stitch 1

Kansai 7

Smocking 5

Four Thread Over-lock 67

Six Thread Over-lock 2

Over-lock (FOR) 1

Elastic 1

Binding (Flat Lock) 39

Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) 28

Button Hole 1

Button Stitch 3

Fusing 1

Heat Transfer S/Head 4

Heat Transfer D/Head 3

Embroidery/Kali Mundi 51

Needle Detector 2

Thread Trimming 8

Saddle Stitch 1

Zigzag 4

Pico-ting 1

Rib Cutter 6

Snap Button N/S 45 1

Strapping Machine 2

Fabric Relaxation Machine 1

Straight Knife Cutting Machine 9

Band Knife Machine 2

Washing Machine 7

Hydro Extractor 4

Tumble Dryer 6

Dry-Cleaning Machine 3

Total 549

SEWING FLOOR

CUTTING FLOOR

PROJECT

IMPLEMENTATION OF KAIZEN

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the project was to implement

kaizen on the sewing floor.

DEFINITION & CONCEPT

“KAI” = Change

“ZEN” = Good

Therefore, “KAIZEN” = Good Change

Or

KAIZEN means “continuous improvement” or

"continual improvement"

involving EVERYBODY in the organization from

the managers down to the workers (or every level

of employee)

KAIZEN VS. INNOVATION

The gradual approach- kaizen

The great leap approach- innovation

Innovation is dramatic, a real attention-getter

Kaizen, on the other hand, is often un-dramatic

and subtle, and its results are seldom

immediately visible

Kaizen is a continuous process.

Innovation is generally a one-shot phenomenon

GEMBA KAIZEN (COMMONSENSE LOW-

COST APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT)

Gemba = Workplace

A process of continuously

Going to the workplace (where

problem/abnormality is)

Identifying the problem and it's root causes

Reducing and

eliminating muda (waste), mura (inconsistency)

and muri (strain)

Solving the problem or improving the situation

FIVE PRINCIPLES OF GEMBA KAIZEN

When a problem/abnormality/opportunity occurs,

go to gemba (the workplace) first

Check with gembutsu like machines, equipment,

tools, jigs, fixtures or rejects etc

Take immediate or even temporary counter-

measures on the spot

Find out the root cause and remove the root

cause of the abnormality

Implement the solution and standardize to

prevent further trouble/recurrence

KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE

FORMAT)

It is continuous improvement in all aspects of life

It has total employee involvement (TEI) at its

base

Suggestions are given to supervisor/manager and

not dropped in a suggestion box (as in

conventional suggestion scheme)

Kaizen emphasizes on implementation

KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE

FORMAT)

Every employee takes part and gives suggestions

Kaizen suggestions are evaluated quickly

Suggestions can be departmental as well as inter-

departmental

Kaizen improves the dignity of the employees

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP I

(PLANNING)

The Kaizen planning phase seeks to Define,

Measure and Analyze the process that will be the

Kaizen focus. There are three levels of Kaizen

planning.

High-level

Mid-level

Event-level

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP I

(PLANNING)

Event planning includes:

Kaizen team member selection

Kaizen charter approval

Location preparation (including equipment,

materials, etc.)

Data needs identification and preparation

STEP I OUTCOME

Kaizen team formed comprising of 7 members

lead by the Production Manager (Mr. L. P.

Luthra) himself.

Kaizen charter was verbally approved.

Focus was decided to be the sewing floor

(specifically line 5 & 6 on the first floor) for the

first trial.

All the data regarding the running style (style #

20426), machinery on lines and workforce was

collected.

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP II

(IMPLEMENT)

Train members of the Kaizen team on the Lean principles that they will be applying

Review the VSM, and perform additional measurements and analyses, if needed

Facilitate an ideation/brainstorming processes to identify improvement options

Implement improvements by “breaking apart” the process and putting it back together without the waste

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP II

(IMPLEMENT)

Prepare an action plan with a list of activities required to complete the Kaizen process

Verify the alignment of the selected improvements with the future state VSM

Identify expected measurable improvements

Obtain participant feedback

Report Kaizen results to Champions and celebrate success

STEP II OUTCOME

Members of the Kaizen team were taught about

the basic lean principles

Line supervisors made aware of the lean

initiative

Brainstorming conducted of probable

improvements

Suggestions demanded from Kaizen team

members as well as the line supervisors

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP III

(FOLLOW-UP)

Following-up to ensure that action items are

successfully completed

Working with Lean Champions to breakdown

obstacles

Measuring the actual results of the Kaizen to

document and quantify benefits

Establishing process control to ensure the ability

to consistently obtain improved performance

STEP III OUTCOME

REDUCTION OF TRANSPORTATION WASTE

Finishing Section

** New = New table introduced in the line

Time Saved = 5 minutes per 50 pieces

SAVING BOBBIN REWINDING TIME

Bobbin winding time = 35 seconds (approx.)

Bobbin changeover time = 25 seconds (approx.)

Total – 1 minute

Change = Issue of two bobbins

New bobbin winding & changeover time = 25

seconds (approx.)

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP IV

(EVALUATE)

A lean enterprise is a learning organization that

recognizes Kaizen as a continuous process of

improvement through:

Identifying improvements to the Kaizen

implementation process

Encouraging employees to identify further

improvement opportunities

Establishing a schedule to re-evaluate the VSM and

start a new Kaizen improvement cycle

STEP IV OUTCOME

The workers were identified as the next possible group of people who needed to be educated about continuous improvement, as they can give suggestions like no one else.

Though we were to leave the Kaizen team, the team members were encouraged to keep the process alive; & they intended to.

The Kaizen team was scheduled to meet every Monday morning and consider various improvement strategies, & implement them (if any) in the following week.

IMPROVEMENT OF SEWING FLOOR

PRODUCTIVITY

{Contractor system – The greatest obstacle & the

cause of inability to quantify benefits}

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the project was to increase the

sewing floor productivity.

Style # 970920 was a ladies’ top with an order

quantity of 5176 pieces.

The style comprised of about 20 operations with

the daily target being 850 pieces and estimated

average output per day as 800 pieces.

The line was introduced with about 240 pieces on

6th June, 2011.

However, the first output from the line came on

11th June, which is about six days after the

introduction of first input in the line.

The line failed to give any output before that.

As per the estimated average output per day, the

order should have been completed within a

maximum of 7 days, which is by 12th June, 2011.

Unfortunately, even on 20th of June, 2011, the

total output of the line was only 4025 pieces,

before we finally forfeited on the line.

The order that should have been completed

within a week failed to finish even on the 15th

day.

SCENARIO…

Style # 85683 had an order quantity of 37550

pieces.

The style comprised of about 24 operations with

the daily target being 800 pieces and estimated

average output per day as 750 pieces.

Daily Production (Style # 85683) Line 1

Day 1 -

Day 2 -

Day 3 -

Day 4 -

Day 5 -

Day 6 298

Day 7 464

Day 8 502

Total 1264

AT WORK…

The workers, working on line 1 were asked to

follow the timings strictly on 16th July 2011.

All of them were informed that their presence is

mandatory on Monday & Tuesday (18th-19th

July).

The line had been rearranged on Sunday, which

had been previously working according to the

contractor’s demands.

With just three changes, the output of the next

day was 706 pieces, totalling the line’s output to

1970 pieces.

Changes –

Punctuality

“Presenteeism”

Line Rearrangement

By 18th July, out of 7598 pieces, approximately

7000 pieces were introduced in the line.

The output was still pending because of the built-

in WIP.

On 18th evening the line was yet again

rearranged; this time in order to reduce the WIP.

Multiple machines were appointed at bottlenecks

and places where WIP had been stacked up.

On 19th, the workers sat according to new line,

against their (& the contractor’s) will, of course,

as it was only meant for a day.

The day’s output sky-rocketed to 862 pieces

(target being 800).

Our point was well proven.

Note: - The line returned back to its normal lack-

lustrous form the next day.

LEARNING EXPERIENCE

LEARNING OUTCOME…

The eight weeks of training in the apparel

industry ensured a practical orientation towards

the understanding of

the industry,

the infrastructure,

set up, and

functioning of the company

We were introduced to the concept of contractor

system & how lethal can it be for a garment

exporter

This module geared us to undertake future

responsibilities

THANK YOU…