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1x2 purl O OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), open- end yarn produced on an OE rotor spinning machine. During production, there is no connection between the sliver and the T yarn to be produced. Relatively coarse yarns with a yarn count of up to Nm 80 are produced. The fibres in OE rotor yarns run less parallel to the yarn axis than in T ring- spun yarns, where more T fibres are re- quired in the yarn cross-section for the same strength. Rotor yarns are yarns with core twist and therefore the stability of the yarn is greater inside than outside. OE rotor yarn has high abrasion resistance and rela- tively low T hairiness. It is recognizable by so-called “belly bands” which are created by long fibres wrapping themselves directly around the yarn. In comparison to ring-spun yarns, OE rotor yarns are stiffer, leading to a harder T handle of the knitted fabrics. Offset, information included in notations which indicates that combinations of structural elements, such as T tuck stitches or T float stitches are staggered vertically in relation to each other. Exam- ples of this are illustrated in T single-face: float stitch single jersey, T single-face: Fred Perry and T single-face: single jer- sey fleece. Offset pillar stitch lapping, type of T pil- lar stitch lapping in T warp knits. It can be carried out with open or closed laps. It is produced on single needle bar or double needle bar T warp knitting machines. Old knitted loop, the T knitted loop formed in the previous knitting cycle, which is still present on the T needle. 1x1 purl, T purl: 1x1 purl. 1x1 rib, T rib: 1x1 rib. 1x2 purl, T purl: 1x2 purl. 145 c b a 0 1 2 0 1 2 3 0 1 2 Offset pillar stitch lapping a) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1/1-2// b) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/2-3/3-2/2-3/3-2// c) Double-face: 1-2-2-2/1-0-0-0// Courtesy of: [Wünsch]
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1x2 purl OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), open- end yarn ...

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Page 1: 1x2 purl OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), open- end yarn ...

1x2 purl

O

OE rotor yarn, (Synonym: rotor yarn), open-end yarn produced on an OE rotor spinningmachine. During production, there is noconnection between the sliver and the Tyarn to be produced. Relatively coarseyarns with a yarn count of up to Nm 80 areproduced. The fibres in OE rotor yarns runless parallel to the yarn axis than in T ring-spun yarns, where more T fibres are re-quired in the yarn cross-section for thesame strength. Rotor yarns are yarns withcore twist and therefore the stability of theyarn is greater inside than outside. OE rotoryarn has high abrasion resistance and rela-tively low T hairiness. It is recognizable byso-called “belly bands” which are createdby long fibres wrapping themselves directlyaround the yarn. In comparison to ring-spunyarns, OE rotor yarns are stiffer, leading to aharder T handle of the knitted fabrics.

Offset, information included in notationswhich indicates that combinations ofstructural elements, such as T tuckstitches or T float stitches are staggeredvertically in relation to each other. Exam-ples of this are illustrated in T single-face:float stitch single jersey, T single-face:Fred Perry and T single-face: single jer-sey fleece.

Offset pillar stitch lapping, type of T pil-lar stitch lapping in T warp knits. It can becarried out with open or closed laps. It isproduced on single needle bar or doubleneedle bar T warp knitting machines.

Old knitted loop, the T knitted loopformed in the previous knitting cycle,which is still present on the T needle.

1x1 purl, T purl: 1x1 purl.

1x1 rib, T rib: 1x1 rib.

1x2 purl, T purl: 1x2 purl.

145

cba

0 1 2 0 1 2 3 0 1 2

Offset pillar stitch lappinga) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/2-1/1-2//b) Single-face: 1-0/0-1/2-3/3-2/2-3/3-2//c) Double-face: 1-2-2-2/1-0-0-0//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Open atlas lapping

Open atlas lapping, type of T atlas lap-ping in T warp knits with T open knittedloops and usually T closed knitted loopsin the T change of direction courses.

Open back-lapped atlas, T single face:open back-lapped double atlas.

Open back-lapped atlas lapping, type ofT atlas lapping in T warp knits with Topen knitted loops and T closed knitted

146

Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closedchange of direction courses (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3 4 5

Open atlas lapping, 4-course with closedchange of direction courses (lapping diagram)Single-face: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course withclosed change of direction courses (loop struc-ture)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Open back-lapped atlas lapping, 3-course withclosed change of direction courses (lapping dia-gram)Single-face: 1-0/2-3/4-5/6-7/5-4/3-2//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Open satin lapping

loops in the T change of direction cours-es and T underlaps under two T needles.

Open cord lapping, type of T cord lap-ping in T warp knits with T underlappingunder two T needles, resulting in T openknitted loops.

Opening, T open-work.

Open-knit fabric, (Synonym: net-typefabric), T open-work structure.

Open knitted loop, T knitted loop inwhich the T limbs of the loop are parallel.T Weft knitted fabrics consist almost ex-clusively of open loops. In T warp knits,where loops are referred to as laps, openlaps are created when the direction of oneT sinker loop (produced by T overlap-ping) is the same as the subsequent

sinker loop (produced by T underlap-ping).

Open pile, T pile.

Open pillar stitch lapping, type of T pil-lar stitch lapping in T warp knits with Topen knitted loops.

Open pillar stitch lapping with two-nee-dle overlap, type of T two-needle overlapin T warp knits. It results in T open knit-ted loops formed by two T needles.

Open satin lapping, type of T satin lap-ping in T warp knits with T underlappingunder three T needles, resulting in Topen knitted loops.

147

Open cord lapping (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3

Open cord lapping (lapping diagram)Single-face: 0-1/3-2//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

a b

Open knitted loopsa) Symmetrical open knitted loopb) Unsymmetrical open knitted loopCourtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open pillar stitch lapping (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO]

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Open-stem slide needle

Open-stem slide needle, design of Tcompound needle in which the T tongue

slides into a groove on the T needle stem.Previously, tubular pipe needles wereused instead of open-stem slide needles.

Open tricot lapping, type of T tricot lap-ping in T warp knits with T underlappingunder one T needle, resulting in T openknitted loops.

Open tricot lapping with two-needleoverlap, type of T two-needle overlap inT warp knits. It results in T open knittedloops formed by two T needles.

Open velvet lapping, type of T velvetlapping in T warp knits with T underlap-ping under four or more T needles, result-ing in T open knitted loops.

148

0 1

Open pillar stitch lapping (lapping diagram)Single-face: 0-1/1-0//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle over-lap (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2

Open pillar stitch lapping with two-needle over-lap (lapping diagram)Single-face: 0-2/2-0//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open satin lapping (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3 4

Open satin lapping (lapping diagram)Single-face: 0-1/4-3//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Open-width device

149

Open tricot lapping (loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2

Open tricot lapping (lapping diagram)Single-face: 0-1/2-1//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap(loop structure)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3

Open tricot lapping with two-needle overlap(lapping diagram). Single-face: 0-2/3-1//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (loop struc-ture)Courtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

0 1 2 3 4 5

Open velvet lapping under 4 needles (lapping di-agram). Single-face: 0-1/5-4//Courtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Pattern bar (PB)

P

Parallel weft insertion, method of insert-ing T weft threads as a T yarn sheet oncertain T stitch-bonding machines inwhich the weft threads are at 90° to theprocessing direction. To achieve this, thespeeds of the T weft carriage and theside-mounted T conveyor chains must besynchronized. The weft threads are deliv-ered to the knitting point individually andthe yarns are stitched T in line with thestitch courses.

Partially fashioned piece, type of Tshaping. Knitted piece with a weltand selvedges created by T widening. Itis not possible to carry out T narrowingby interlacing the T selvedge stitches.The T working width can be decreasedby T pressing off T knitted loops instaggered T press-off shaping. Cuttingis required.

Part-set threaded warp inlay, term for aT lapping movement which is carried outby a guide bar, in which yarns are onlythreaded over a certain part of the Tworking width, as with T selvedge yarnsand reinforcement yarns.

Part-set threading, (Synonym: patternedthreading), yarns are only threaded intosome of the yarn guides of the T guidebars of a T warp knitting machine, usu-ally in a repeating sequence, such as 1threaded yarn guide (in) and 1 yarn guidewith no thread (out), i.e. 1 in/1 out. Part-set threading is used for surface designsor for open-work structures (T lace). Iftwo guide bars knitting together are par-tially threaded and complement eachother to make one full-set threading, thisis called T half-set threading.

Patent needle, T carbine needle.

Pattern, 1. The result of material, colouror structural design or ornamentation on aknitted fabric. The pattern can be createdduring production of the knitted fabric,during finishing, e.g. by printing, or duringmaking-up. Patterns are often based on aT construction and are created by usingyarns of different colours, finenesses orstructures and/or by combining differentconstructions. The T pattern repeat isusually larger than the T knitting repeat.2. In English, the pattern can refer to the Tknitting notation.

Pattern bar (PB), T guide bar on T warpknitting machines, onto which T patternyarn guides are mounted. These are at-tached to the guide bar according to thepattern at relatively long, sometimes un-even intervals. Pattern bars T lay in yarnsas warp inlays with large repeats. To drivethe pattern bars, T pattern chains withspecial chain links, T summary drives orT string bars are used.

151

pressing off knitted loops

widening

Sleeve as a partially fashioned piece, weft knit-ted on a flat knitting machineCourtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Pattern chain

Pattern chain, sequence of moving metalchain links which are joined one inside theother or with hinges, and form a circle andare used to drive the T guide bars on Twarp knitting machine. The individualchain links are of different heights. The dif-ference in height between two adjacentchain links determines the size of the lat-eral shogging movement of the guide bar.

Pattern chain link, (Synonym: chain link),piece of a T pattern chain with a certainheight and a certain length. Depending onits height, the chain links are numbered as0, 1, 2, 3, 4 etc. The number indicates byhow many needle spacings the guide bar

should be shogged. The heights of thechain links must be appropriate for the Tneedle pitch of the machine. According to

152

0 1 2 3 40 1 2

0 1 23 4

GB1 GB2 GB3

Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lappingin opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf)Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2//

GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2//GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6//

Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threadedCourtesy of: [Wünsch]

a b c d

Chain links as elements of pattern chainsa) A-link (with no chamfering)b) B-link (chamfered at the front)c) C-link (chamfered at the back)d) D-link (chamfered at both ends)Courtesy of: [Liba]

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Pattern disc

the length of the chain link, a distinction ismade between T standard chain links (N-type), normally for T tricot warp knittingmachines and T long chain links (E-type)for T raschel warp knitting machines.

Pattern chain tensioner, device on Twarp knitting machines for guiding andtensioning long T pattern chains for warpknits with relatively large T repeats in thecourse direction. Chain tensioners havenow been replaced by T electronic guidebar control, which is more reliable, guar-antees more precise shogging and en-ables patterns to be changed more quick-ly and easily.

Pattern course, part of a T stitch coursein multi-coloured Jacquard patterns or in

T double knit courses. In Jacquard pat-terns the T stitch courses are formedfrom two, three or four different colouredT yarns. Two, three or four knitting cycles(pattern courses) are required to knit oneT stitch course.

Pattern disc, T cam disc for driving theT ground bars on T warp knitting ma-chines with regard to the lateral shoggingmovement (T guide bar shogging). Thefront surface of the pattern disc is curvedand is felt by a roller. The number of shog-ging movements stored on the circumfer-ence of the cam disc influences the Tpattern repeat. During one revolution ofthe pattern disc, for example, 8, 10, 12 or16 stitch courses are knitted. The maxi-mum possible course repeat on the pat-

153

Warp knit with surface design by part-set threading of the two front guide bars; tricot/satin lappingin opposite directions over tricot, closed (continued overleaf)Single-face: GB1: (3-4/1-0)x4/(2-3/2-1)x2//

GB2: (2-3/2-1)x4(3-4/1-0)x2//GB3: (1-2/1-0)x6//

Threading: GB1 8 in/4 out//, GB2 8 out/4 in//, GB3 fully threadedCourtesy of: [Wünsch]

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Pattern drum

tern disc is limited. Pattern discs are pro-duced for a particular T needle pitch andT lapping movement and are normallylimited to a particular guide bar position(e.g. for GB 1). Their curved polished sur-face enables quiet machine operation, op-timum shogging distances and thereforemaximum T machine speeds.

Pattern drum, cylindrical holder of datastorage devices for controlling the shog-ging movement of T guide bars on Twarp knitting machines. The T patternchains are inserted into the tracks of thepattern disc. The circumference of thedrum, in conjunction with the type ofchain link, determines the maximum pos-sible course repeat. The repeat can beextended by fitting a pattern chain ten-sioner.

Patterned threading, T part-set thread-ing.

Patterning, 1. Process of creating a Tpattern.2. Overall effect of a pattern.

Patterning device, drive for controllingthe lateral shogging movement of the T

guide bars on T warp knitting machines.For each guide bar, there is a data carrier(T pattern chain or T pattern disc).These are combined together onto one Tpattern drum (single-drum drive) anddriven by the T transmission shaft. Thetransmission ratio (T links per course)between the transmission shaft and thepatterning device determines the numberof chain links or the length of the regionon the drive surface of the T patterndisc, which is available for one knittingcycle. If all guide bars operate at thesame rate, a single-drum drive is used,either an N-patterning device (with Tstandard chain links) or an E patterningdevice (with elongated chain links). Thereare also two-drum drives (NE pattern de-vice or EH pattern device) when guidebars operate with different numbers oflinks per course. Different data carrierscan be combined, e.g. pattern discs forthe T ground bars and pattern chains forthe T pattern bars.

Patterning unit, normally computer-aid-ed unit for creating and preparing T pat-terns. A patterning unit can belong to one

154

M1–0

1–2

Pattern disc for the back guide bar of a tricotwarp knitting machine with a machine gauge ofE 28, closed tricot lapping 1-0/1-2//, 16 knittingcycles, 3 links per course.Courtesy of: [Liba]

pattern chain pattern disc

Patterning device to control the lateral shoggingmovement of the guide bars on warp knittingmachines with a pattern chain or pattern disc asthe data carrier.Courtesy of: [KMO]

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Pelerine point

knitting machine or several machines canbe networked to a patterning unit.

Pattern presser, working element at theknitting point of T straight-bar knittingmachines or T warp knitting machineswith T bearded needles. In contrast to thepresser, the pattern presser is designedso that it either presses or skips (does notpress) needles. This produces T tuckstitch patterns.

Pattern repeat, repeating unit of a T pat-tern in a knitted fabric, normally relating tothe colour design, such as striped orchecked patterns. In T weft knitted fab-rics, the pattern repeat is largely deter-mined by the choice of yarn carrier and inT warp knits by the colour sequence ofthe T threading, e.g. 10A, 6B, 12C.

Pattern unit, T stitch.

Pattern yarn, yarn which is processed inaddition to one or more T ground yarnsand normally appears on the T effect sideof the knitted fabric (e.g. T embroideryplating on weft knitted fabrics). In warpknitted fabrics, pattern yarns are normallyT laid in as warp inlays or bound into theknitted ground as loops (T fall plate pat-terns), in which the yarn density of the pat-tern yarns is lower than the yarn density ofthe ground yarns. The pattern yarns arefed via pattern warp beams and T patternyarn guides.

Pattern yarn guide, working element forguiding yarns on T warp knitting ma-chines which are laid into the knittedground as pattern yarns. Pattern yarnguides are screwed onto the T patternbar at certain intervals. Several patternyarn guides can operate in one T shog-ging line if required.

PB, abbreviation of T pattern bar.

Pearl lace, T single-face: pearl lace.

Pea tulle, relatively coarse T honeycombtulle with up to 30 T holes per inch andhexagonal, almost circular openings. Peatulle is a T bobbinet tulle.

Pelerine point, working element at theknitting point of T sinker wheel knitting

155

pattern yarn guide

Pattern yarn guide on a raschel warp knittingmachineCourtesy of: [KMO, 2000]

Pea tulle produced on a bobbinet machineCourtesy of: [Götz/Hennig, 1960]

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